HOMEBREW Digest #1013 Mon 16 November 1992

Digest #1012 Digest #1014

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Demise of Whitbred???? (whg)
  traquair left overs (card)
  Sierra Nevada = Narraganset? (Russ Gelinas)
  worthington's white shield (Tony Babinec)
  Smithwicks  (R.B.) Buckingham" <brettb at bnr.ca>
  Re: Wyeast purity (korz)
  Pumps and other gadgets (hjl)
  Stout recipe (korz)
  molasses/whitbread/kegging (Brian Bliss)
  Re:corn sugar (Jack Thompson)
  *** Signoff *** (Jim Standen)
  First batch - boil/water questions (Bill A. Danforth)

Send articles for __publication__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Archives are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) **Please do not send me requests for back issues!** *********(They will be silenty discarded!)********* **For Cat's Meow information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu**
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 12 Nov 92 17:35:51 CST From: whg at tellabs.com Subject: Demise of Whitbred???? Can someone comment on the alledged demise of Whitbred ale yeast? I continually here about how it is no longer available yet still buy it everytime I stop into Chicago Indoor Garden Supply. When I ask the owner about it he looks at me like I've taken his advise to "brew your own and grow your own" a little too much to heart. According to him Whitbred has changed form a 14g to a 12g package but is still producing away. What's the story here? Walter Walter Gude || whg at tellabs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 09:16:46 EST From: card at apollo.hp.com Subject: traquair left overs re: high gravity beers When doing a high gravity beer like traquair, one can continue to sparge for a second, lower gravity, beer. But 2 boils in a day is a definite detriment. How about simply storing the sparge'd wort in a carboy to boil another day. It would be subject to infection but after all, you will eventually boil it. re: mashing specialty grains notice some do NOT mash these, but steep separately in the water being heated for mash-out temperature elevation. Are there negative implications to mashing chocolate/roasted, etc. /Mal Card Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 10:47:34 -0500 (EST) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: Sierra Nevada = Narraganset? Someone mentioned "Sierra Nevada/Narragansett" yeast. Is the yeast that Sierra Nevada uses now originally from the Narragansett brewery in Rhode Island? Hard to believe, since Narragansett's are often referred to as Nasty-gansetts, with good reason. Although I did once have a few 'Gansetts at a bar in RI, near the brewery, and they tasted surprisingly good, a lot like Bass ale. Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 10:02:04 CST From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: worthington's white shield Some English colleagues of mine recently sent me a bottle of Worthington's White Shield, a bottle-conditioned ale being relaunched by Bass. Note that this is a 4-star beer in Jackson's Pocket Guide. The beer comes with pouring instructions attached to the neck of the bottle. I thought HBD readers would be interested. Here they are: Storage. The ideal storage temperature is 60F or a little over. To this end storage in a cool cupboard will suffice. The bottle should be allowed to stand for at least 24 hours to allow the sediment to settle and the beer to condition before serving. Step By Step Pouring Instructions. 1. Select a clean glass (ideally a 12 oz Worthington glass). 2. Hold the bottle firmly and remove the crown cork using a hand opener. 3. Raise both the glass and the bottle to eye level and preferably to a light source--you have to watch for the sediment. 4. Keeping the bottle off the rim of the glass, gently pour the beer along the glass very slowly. Remember that once you start to pour, you cannot stop! 5. Gradually straighten the glass as it fills--avoiding any violent movement of the bottle which may disturb the sediment. 6. As the bottle is gently tipped, watch that the sediment is trapped in the shoulder of the bottle. Ideally you should leave a tablespoon of beer in the bottle with the sediment. 7. This should leave you with a clear, sparkling, delicious glass of Worthington's White Shield. On The Other Hand... There are two other schools of thought to the pouring of a White Shield. One is practised by the White Shield brewers. That is to pour it in the approved manner leaving the sediment in the bottle-- Drink the beer and then knock back the sediment at the end. The other is to pour in the approved manner, but then tip the natural sediment in and watch the goodness start to sink to the bottom! History. Originally known as Worthington's India Pale Ale, Worthington's White Shield was first brewed in the early 19th Century. The name White Shield is taken from the Worthington's original trademark, a dagger in a white shield. White Shield is a unique real ale that matures in the bottle just as cask beer matures in the cask. The natural fermentation of the product, which continues in the bottle after packaging, causes a small amount of yeast sediment to form in the bottom of the bottle. Herein lies the secret of White Shield because the continuing fermentation helps to develop the distinctive, smooth, nutty flavour of the ale. The sediment in the beer means that the bottles should not be shaken before opening so that the sediment sinks to the bottom, for this reason White Shield requires careful pouring--Knowing when to stop is the key. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 11:45:00 +0000 From: "Brett (R.B.) Buckingham" <brettb at bnr.ca> Subject: Smithwicks Smithwicks (pronounced smith icks, no w, and a 'leathery' kind of th sound) is indeed available in Canada, specifically Ottawa. Most of the pseudo-English type pubs have it on tap, and it is also available in the LCBO (liquor store) for about CDN$7 / 4 (ouch). It is my favorite English (oh, OK, I know it's Irish) beer. The color is rather dark, kind of amber-brown, with a really impressive malt character. I can't really identify the type of hops used, but will keep on quaffing so I can try to identify them. My recent attempts at a clone were good, but not really close. IMHO, the bottled version is better, as I suspect some bars water the draught beers down. If anyone has an all-grain clone, I'd like to hear of it. R. Brett Buckingham HPSOS development group Any opinions expressed brettb at bnr.ca Bell-Northern Research Ltd. are my own. (613)763-7273 P.O. Box 3511, Station "C" Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 4H7 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 12:42 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Re: Wyeast purity James writes: >About yeast: I've been brewing with Edme for a couple of years now with >no infections. So of course, the first time I try Wyeast, I get little >white rings in all my bottles. Bleah. I'm going back to Edme; I couldn't >taste any difference before the rings appeared, either. I don't know where >this "switching to liquid yeast improved my beer 100%" business came from >but it sure didn't do much for me.... When you say "white rings" I assume you mean "ring around the collar" the ring of stuff that forms on the inside of the neck of the bottle at the level of the beer. This is always caused by an *aerobic* biota, my guess would be either acetobacter, sherry flor or mold. There is absolutely no question in my mind that liquid yeasts produce better tasting beers than dry yeasts -- if your sanitation is good. One source of problems that many who switch from dry to liquid yeast is that good sanitation is more important when using Wyeast especially without a starter. 1. Dry yeast is super-oxygenated before drying and is READY TO GO as soon as it hits the wort -- 2 hour lag times are not uncommon. 2. Dry yeasts have a tendancy to be quite voracious eaters. 3. Dry yeasts tend (in my experience) to be more attenuative (leave less sugars behind). Okay. 1. Longer lag times mean that molds, bacteria and wild yeasts have much more time to get into your fermenter and take hold. 2. Slower ferments mean that your cultured yeast is less of a competitor. 3. Less attenuative yeasts leave more sugars for bacteria, wild yeasts and molds to eat. Given this, you can see that switching to Wyeast can be a test of your sanitation and how many airbourne nasties there are living in your house. To get the full benefits of Wyeast you should use a starter and be very cautious of your sanitation procedures. I've used Wyeast exclusively (except for a test batch made with M&F yeast that was so clovey it was undrinkable and, of course, my pseudo-lambiks) for the last three brewing seasons and have never had an infection. Year-old beers are still carbonated properly (albeit a bit oxidized). If you need proof as to the quality of Wyeast, I suggest that you check the dry/liquid yeast statistics of the AHA National Competition prize winners. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 14:55 EST From: hjl at gummo.att.com Subject: Pumps and other gadgets There's been some conversation about brew pumps in the digest lately. IMHO the only type of pump which could be adequately sanitized is the peristaltic type wherin boluses (lumps) of the pumped liquid are captivated between pinched constrictions in a hose and are driven along by moving the constrictions in the desired direction of flow. This is a little like manually milking a cow. The ones I've seen (pumps, that is) accomplish this by means of a pair of rollers affixed to opposite ends of a bar which is attached at its center to a driven shaft. This assembly is axially mounted in a cylinder whose inside diameter is just large enough to accomodate the bar with its rollers and four thicknesses of the hose (two pinches). The hose is arrayed a little more than halfway around the inside of the cylinder and axially restrained to stay between the rollers and the cylinder wall. Rotation of the shaft pinches the hose, captures the liquid and moves it along. Nothing touches the liquid except the inside of the hose, which is easy to clean. If memory serves, the first application of this technique was to pump blood in heart-lung machines but it now has wide industrial application. Tha pumps are available in many sizes and aren't all that expensive. Another sanitization subject... Measuring specific gravity with a hydrometer to ascertain the completion of fermentation always exposes the beer to possible contamination. Sterilizing the sampling hose isn't a big problem but nicks and scratches can harbor the nasties. And then you have to throw away all that beer (or drink it). But then you have to top off the secondary to keep it full (you do use sterile water, don't you). An alternate is to use a refractometer. This is a gadget which determines the concentration of a sugar solution by measuring its refractive index. The attraction is that the required sample size is only one drop. The absolute accuracy is quite good for sugar solutions but not after alcohol has begun to form during fermentation. Day to day _changes_ are readily observable and accuratly indicate activity or lack therof. I take samples with a sterilized glass rod (passed slowly through a gas flame) exposing the beer to air for only a few seconds. Downside? Best current price is $200. It's also great for OG's though. Hank Luer Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 15:21 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Stout recipe I got a couple of requests for my stout recipe, based upon my claim that it was a "dead ringer for Guinness." Well, first off, I'd like to submit a disclaimer -- since this was three seasons ago, and my memory of that beer has faded quite a bit, I cannot guarantee that it will taste anything like the bottled version of Guinness Extra Stout -- I can guarantee it will be a tasty stout, though! Here goes: Al's Medium-dry Stout 5 gallons 6.6 lbs John Bull Unhopped Dark Malt Extract 0.5 lb Roasted Un-malted Barley 0.5 lb Black Patent Malt 1/3 oz Wines Inc. Burton Water Salts 3 oz Cluster Pellets (60 min boil) 6 gal Soft Tapwater in brewkettle 1 pkg Wyeast #1084 Irish Ale yeast 1/2 cup Corn Sugar for priming OG/FG unknown Brewer's specifics: I just strongly suggest using the blowoff method, because if you don't I feel this beer will be much too astringent. Comments: There was a time that I thought this was a dead-ringer for Guinness, but that was a long time ago and I've switched to brewing sweet stouts since then. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 17:29:12 CST From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: molasses/whitbread/kegging >New topic: I've been using Edme dried yeast ever since Whitbred quit >making dried yeast a few months back. For my last few batches, I've >been hydrating the yeast prior to pitching, but haven't tried making a >starter. Perhaps it works "too well" without one: I'm looking for >opinions. Kent dropped whitbread ale yeast; whitbread is now distributed by Crosby & Baker. I should already be avaiable in the new packaging. the good news is 1) its available, and 2) it still comes in a foil pouch. the bad news is: they're reduced the size of each packet from 14 gr. to 10 or 12 gr. - --------- >I just thought that Papazian says to be careful with using too much molasses. >Comments or experiences? beware of sulfured molasses. - --------- >I have some soda kegs that I'm trying to get cleaned up so I can use >them, and I ran into a problem last night. I was trying to get the fittings >off of the keg and was unable to. I thought that these things came apart >so that you could remove the stem, but after cranking down on it pretty hard >I still couldn't get it to budge. These things do come apart don't they? Do >you turn them counter-clockwise to loosen? Should I use something like >WD-40 or Liquid Wrench on these things to help break them loose? They've got thread sealant on them - it takes a lot to break them loose, but once you do, they will screw off easily. WD-40 and what-not won't help - it won't penetrate the sealant. Someone out there is HBD-land took a socket and put a few slices in it where the pins go (for pin-lock kegs) and said that worked fine. >I guess the larger question is whether I need to do this at all, or will >running some sanitizing solution through be ok? sanitizing solution works fine - boiling water is fine too. (and you don't need to rinse if you're bleach-paranoid) bb Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Nov 92 06:02:57 EST From: Jack Thompson <76520.3531 at compuserve.com> Subject: Re:corn sugar Martin Noble asks about corn derivatives. First off, corn starch is not corn flour; lack the protein, etc. that comes from flour. Good starch (i.e. not the chemically derived stuff) can be manufactured at home by adding an excess of water to flour; when it begins to ferment, pour off the water and add fresh. When it stops fermenting, what is left at the bottom of the bucket/barrel/container is starch. Of course, if you leave starch in water long enough, it will go off. Corn sugar is dry, granular stuff; corn syrup is corn sugar with water added, more or less. Jack C. Thompson >76520.3531 at compuserve.com< Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1992 14:00:13 -0500 From: Jim Standen <626021 at ucdasvm1.admin.ucalgary.ca> Subject: *** Signoff *** FROM: Jim Standen Manager, General Applications Administrative Systems, University of Calgary Could you please sign me off this list server. all other attempts have failed. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 92 20:48:01 PST From: danforth at wattsbar.llnl.gov (Bill A. Danforth) Subject: First batch - boil/water questions Hello all, I am getting ready to brew my first batch, and I would like some clarification on boiling, and I have a question on water. First, I have a 5 1/4 Gallon pot that I will be using for my boiling. I have read that all I need to boil is 1 1/2 or 3 gallons. Will I be alright just using three gallons in the boil? And second, I have a water softener installed at my house. I also have an RO (Reverse Osmosis) unit installed in my kitchen. I was going to use the water from the RO unit for my beer. This is basically the same water you get at a water store. Can I use it, or do I have to boil it before using? - Our water before getting the softener had a hardness of 23 (Extremely hard). Thanks in advance, Bill Danforth danforth2 at llnl.gov Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1013, 11/16/92