HOMEBREW Digest #1032 Mon 14 December 1992

Digest #1031 Digest #1033

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  yeast (J. Fingerle)
  .Z extension (thutt)
  pots (mgx)
  Maltmill vs. Mercato Round 2 (7226 Lacroix)
  sparging technique (Mark Garti  mrgarti at xyplex.com)
  Weird Starter (summary) (Alan B. Carlson)
  I'll PASS on the Mexican WATER; spiceweirdness; kegs (The Ice-9-man Cometh)
  Mail Order Sources: Need a List! (Jon Knowles)
  blowoff or blowup?  (davehyde)
  blowoff (   Paul Biron)
  Comments on Belgian Ale Book (Joe Rolfe)
  La Chouffe (jim busch)
  results of vanilla brew (dave ballard)
  iodine test & buffering sparge water (Scott James.)
  Brewpubs (almost) legal in Michigan ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  when to pitch a starter? (Peter Maxwell)
  "grapefruit" Hops (whg)
  Sparging (Jack Schmidling)
  Good Wheatbeer (DBIRCH)
  Questions about imports (Carlo Fusco)
  yeast's tolerance of alcohol (Rob Bradley)
  Cleaning stoves after boil overs (MIKE LELIVELT)
  Perfect Brew! :-) (Todd Enders - WD0BCI)

Send articles for __publication__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Archives are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) **Please do not send me requests for back issues!** *********(They will be silenty discarded!)********* **For Cat's Meow information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu**
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 07:51:40 EST From: fingerle at NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL (J. Fingerle) Subject: yeast I'd like to open a thread concerning the culturing of yeast. If there is enough interest, this could be done via the digest, but I suspect private email might be better. Anyway, I just recently bought some liquid yeast and was a bit shocked at the price; not that it is outlandish, or anything, but after using the dry yeast that comes free with the extract syrup, it seems like its a lot of $. So, my next thoughts turn to culturing yeast. Using Papazian, 2nd edition, I have no problem with the explanation of the preparation of the medium. Now, on p279, under the heading "Culturing the yeast", he says to open the container of pure yeast culture and pour it into your previously prepared medium (6 oz of wort in a 12 oz vigorously sanitized bottle.) My liquid yeast has the two sections of liquid, one of which your supposed to break, then let the package swell up. Do you do do this, allow for the swelling, then dump the entire thing the bottle? Or do you break the inner part and immediately dump both sections into the bottle? Or do you ignore the inner part and just dump the one section in? Once the liquid yeast is in the bottle, you place a fermentation lock on it, according to Papazian. Fermentation starts, but then what? Papazain says stick it in the refrigerator, then repropogate in 2 to 4 weeks. When do you use it? When you repropogate, do you split the bottle contents in half and propogate two cultures? Do you drain off the liquid in the top half of the bottle and just use the sediment? Do you have to let everything get to room temperature? I have so many questions, about this, that I may as well stop at this point. Can anyone give me some pointers and/or step-by-step instructions? And, perhaps, can anyone render an opinion: I'm still a beginner, having only brewed 5 batches, am I getting in over my head to quickly? Thanks! - -- /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ name: Jimmy What's wrong here: A child can get a email: fingerle at NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL condom from the school nurse anytime but -or- fingerle at NADC.NAVY.MIL needs parental permission to get an aspirin \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 07:59:05 EST From: thutt <thutt at MAIL.CASI.NASA.GOV> Subject: .Z extension Since there has been no concrete answer to the .Z question, I'll answer it once and for all. The .Z is a file compressed using the Unix(tm) 'compress' program. If you have a Unix(tm) machine, there are two ways to generally uncompress the file: 1) compress -d filename.Z 2) uncompress filename.Z When the decompression is complete, you will be left with a 'filename', and 'filename.Z' will have been deleted. If you are using a 16 bit PC, you may have some problems. The method required to compress/decompress the data uses a table of a specified bit size. On most Unix(tm) machines, this table size is 16bit. Unfortunately, this is generally too big for a simple recompile of the program on a PC. There are specific recompilations of the program that will allow you to use 16bit compress on a PC. You can FTP several PC versions from the wuarchive.wustl.edu (ip not known at this time) server. The simtel site will also have these. If you cannot FTP things, and you really need the software, you can send me a disk (any format) and a SASE, and I'll be happy to send you the versions you require (actually, I'll send you all the versions I have)). If you are interested, drop me a line, and I'll give you my address. Sorry, due to our network (don't get me started on this subject...), I cannot send files via email at this time. I am working on a custom version of uuencode that will work with c(rappy)c(rappy):Mail, but it is not done yet. Hope this helps. Taylor Championing worldwide usage of Oberon-2! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 08:11:16 +0600 From: mgx at solid.ssd.ornl.gov Subject: pots In hbd #1031 Judy Bayliss asked about cooking pots for brewing: >The article suggested a stainless steel stewpot, the >one we have is graniteware, or whatever they call the dark blue cookware >with white specks. Can we use that, or does it have to be stainless steel ? >Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Judy, both stainless steel and enamelware are good for homebrewing. The stainless will have a longer lifetime. Don't use the enamelware if it has been chipped and shows rust. Aluminum pots are ok for producing hot water for sparging, but should not come in contact with the mash or wort. Judy, I tried to email u directly but it bounced. Please try to email me so my mailer can get to know yours! :-) Good Luck with the beer making! Michael D. Galloway mgx at solid.ssd.ornl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 06:04:10 MST From: stevel at chs.com (7226 Lacroix) Subject: Maltmill vs. Mercato Round 2 Well, I'm not usually one to sing the praises of a gizmo for very long but the response(s) to my previous post seem to require a further comment. To the person who is happy with his Mercato...Great! I was just as happy brewing with my old thin aluminum kettle...until I got a better one. And I remember how happy I was when I got my first bottle filler, and how neat it was...until I got a Phil's Philler. My point wasn't that some people would not be happy with their Mercato (or for that matter their Corona!). Having USED the Maltmill, I just don't think I would be happy trading a Maltmill for a Mercato. That little hopper (how big is it, about a cup??) and that tiny crank (do you hold it with 2 fingers or 3??) just don't to be a lot of fun to mill 20 or so pounds of grain...but then again, different strokes... Finally, I would use the same logic you used when trying to get the biggest bang for your buck...if the Mercato is worth the extra bucks over the Corona.. there is no doubt that the Maltmill is worth a few bucks more when "compared" to the Mercato...but then again...what about the 300+ owners of the Maltmill?? What sez you guys??? Oh...by the way Mercato owners...how easy is it to get service from the company which makes the Mercato?????????????? Steve Lacroix Primitive Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 08:27:25 EST From: garti at mrg.xyplex.com (Mark Garti mrgarti at xyplex.com) Subject: sparging technique I use a zapapp lauter tun (bucket in bucket). It was made from 2 6.5 gallon buckets. all this talk about sparging and solution concentration had me thinking about my technique. when sparging and adding sparge water, are you supposed to let the water level start to drop below the the top of the grain before adding more sparge water. OR do you never let this happen. All the books are pretty grey here. also no one touched my question about reasonable conversion times. i had asked if most people end up doing a conversion step of 45-90 minutes? papazzian had indicated a total time of about 25 minutes. is anyone getting decent efficencies with this short a time. I'm not but i don't know if this is the problem, or if it's something else. i usually get 25 ppg. Mark mrgarti at xyplex.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 15:00:17 +0100 From: Alan B. Carlson <alanc at cs.chalmers.se> Subject: Weird Starter (summary) I'd like to start out by thanking all those who responded to my post about "weird starters" in HBD-1024. All the responses agreed that the gravity of the starter wort was way too high - way over the generally agreed upon wort gravity of 1.020 - and that what I was seeing floating around in the starter was probably sugar crystals. So, this is another case where one throws out the recommedations of the local homebrew shop (I was, after all, just following their instructions :-) ). I would like to add one data point. After having posted my message to HBD, and being too impatient to wait for a reponse, I began another starter with the same immense gravity (once again using granulated sugar). This time I used first generation Wyeast Bohemian Pilsener (as I had in producing the beer I took the dregs from in the original starter). After pitching the starter (which looked to be okay), it took 6 (!) days before I noticed significant fermentation - i.e. before it started bubbling in the airlock. The same thing happened the first time I used Wyeast Bohemian Pilsener and followed the instructions from the local homebrew shop. So, I guess the lesson is: Keep your starter wort's OG down at a reasonable level or beware! Alan - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Alan B. Carlson Phone: +46 31 772 10 73 Chalmers University of Technology UUCP: alanc at cs.chalmers.se Department of Computer Sciences S-412 96 Gothenburg Go IFK GOETEBORG !! SWEDEN - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 8:55:55 -0600 (CST) From: SMITH at EPVAX.MSFC.NASA.GOV (The Ice-9-man Cometh) Subject: I'll PASS on the Mexican WATER; spiceweirdness; kegs >From: BLASS at bigvax.alfred.edu (YOU'VE GOT THE EGGS, I'VE GOT THE SCRAPPLE, LET'S MAKE US A BREAKFAST) >I am interested in recipes for mexican beers, like Corona, and >how to make malt liquor. I tried a few different malt liquors, some >enjoyable (Mickey's Fine Malt Liquor), some not that enjoyable. How >is it made and are there any recipes? I understand that there is a secret ingredient in US-import Corona, but you won't find it in any of MY recipes. *grin* As for malt liquors... I have been told that the only difference between, say, Schlitz and Schlitz Malt Liquor is a bunch of corn sugar to add alcohol. Forget 'em and brew a nice pale ale or something, if ya ask me. >From: John Fitzgerald <johnf at ccgate.SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM> >I bottled my spicy Christmas ale recently, and within 1 week of bottling, >something ugly is happening in the bottles. There is a thin white oil slick >on the surface of the beer, climbing about 1/8" up the glass on the inside. >Is this definitely from an infection? I've never seen anything like it in the >past 3 years/25 batches. My spiced holiday brew did something similar: a few floaties in the bottles, white, which subsequently sank and have not shown up again. Very weird. I don't know if it's an infection or not as this was the last brew I made without boiling all the water first, so my sanitation may be suspect. Naturally, I blame the Wyeast. :) My recipe was very similar to yours, minus the vanilla and a lot of cinnamon, and yeah, it took a long time to clear...I finally bottled before it cleared, it took over a month in the bottle after that, even. >From: davehyde at tecnet1.jcte.jcs.mil >keg is one of those newer cylindrical types without a bung. My question: How >do I get my beer in? There's got to be some way to get the tap fitting out, >but everything I try seems to require too much force to be working properly. There's a snapring holding everything down. You can pry it out using a thin screwdriver with not much force at all; it's thin metal and has a cutout on which you can pry. Once it's out, the whole fitting and dip tube assembly lifts up and out, no problemo. Getting the ring back IN is the hard part, comparatively. | James W. Smith, NASA MSFC EP-53 | SMITH at epvax.msfc.nasa.gov | | "I'll kiss you only if you promise not to bite me again" --Binky | | Neither NASA nor (!James) is responsible for what I say. Mea culpa. | Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 08:56:07 CST From: jknowles at unmc.edu (Jon Knowles) Subject: Mail Order Sources: Need a List! Has anyone compiled a list of mail order places for brewing supplies? I have only the Williams Brewing catalog and would like to know of other sources so that I can make comparisons on supplies, costs, etc. Thanks Jon jknowles at unmc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 09:59:06 EST From: davehyde at tecnet1.jcte.jcs.mil Subject: blowoff or blowup? Since the topic has come up, here's one of my earlier experiences with first stage blowoff in a carboy. I had brewed a batch of something (you'll see why I've forgotten), dumped it into a carboy, which it almost filled. Mistake #1. I went ahead and pitched it with dry yeast without draining any, and stuck in a blowoff tube. Mistake #2. I put it in the guest room, the warmest room of the house, and let it set. Mistake #3. The next night I had to work late, and ended up staying with a friend rather than drive home exhausted. I got a worried call from my wife, who said that the beer didn't look very active, but that the blowoff tube was clogged. Being my level headed self, I told her to just pull the tube out (meaning leave the stopper behind), rinse it w/ clean water, and replace it. Mistake #4. Fine, and she hung up. About 1/2 hour later, the PANIC call comes. Apparently she had pulled the stopper out and gone to the bathroom to rinse it. Nothing happened when she pulled the stopper, BTW. While rinsing, she heard a WHOOSH (as she put it), turned back, and saw a 2" column of "beer" spewing out of the carboy, bouncing off the ceiling, and splattering all over the walls of the room. I came home after all that night. Dave Hyde davehyde at tecnet1.jcte.jcs.mil BTW I can only store beer in the basement now. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 10:26:57 EST From: paulb%ted at juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Paul Biron) Subject: blowoff J. Knight writes: > A question for all you blower-offers. > I generally do primary fermentation in my good ole plastic bucket. Because > of gettin some yuck up through the airlock a couple of times, I've been using > semi-blowoff - that is, I have an old racking tube with a stiff part joined > to a flexible part, and the stiff part fits down through the airlock hole in > the lid. I use this for "blowoff" although the larger capacity of the > bucket means relatively little stuff is actually blown off. > Now, if I want to try a real blowoff - that is, with a 5-gal glass carboy - > can I just use this hose in my regular stopper? Do I need the 1-inch tube I > read about occasionally because the small i.d. of my present device might > lead to clogging and possibly a very large and messy grenade? If so, what > kind of equipment do I need for the carboy mouth and where do I get it? > Thanks again for all of your Greate Wisdomme. > Jonathan I would definately use the 1" hose as opposed to the racking tube. The amount of gunk that gets pumped out through my hose would definately clog a small diameter tube and possibly lead to a mess. As far as equipment, all you need is a 3' length of 1" tube and a bucket of water. Make sure that the carboy is filled into the bottom of the neck, insert the tube 1-2 inches into the neck and stick the other end into a bucket of water to create an air lock. I find that it works best if the carboy sits higher than the bucket. I replace this setup with a 3-piece airlock when the kreusen falls. I can't recall the brand name, but the brew shop where I get my supplies sells a glass blowoff tube for $19.95. It has a foam sleeve to protect from breaking against the carboy and is much easier to clean than the glass tube. I would recommend in getting one of these since the plastic tube needs occasional replacement. Call Heart's Liquors at 407-298-4103 for orders Paul Biron MIT/Lincoln Laboratory Teminal Doppler Weather Radar Kissimmee, Florida Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 10:35:26 EST From: Joe Rolfe <jdr at wang.com> Subject: Comments on Belgian Ale Book hi all, having been close to being nuked on another net list about some comments i made in response to other comments regarding Pierre Rajotte's Belgian Ale book. the general consensus seems to be that the book failed to provide the level of depth and missed the mark. If anyone has problems (other than editorial/publishing) please forward them to me at the address below. I will forward them to Pierre enmasse after a reasonable time period, to solicit clarification or whatever. You may or may not want to include some personal information (like number of years brewing, professional or as a hobby any other background you care to add that could be relevant to the response. (just tlaked to pierre he agrees to respond)..... I was under the impression the book was a success as the number of Yeah vs Nay articles posted in many different net lists was tilted to the yeah side. i have no monetary interest in the book or Pierre's business matters, except that i am a satisfied customer of his brewing equipment. - -- joe rolfe jdr at wang.com 508-967-5760 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 16:46:43 EST From: jim busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: La Chouffe Recently, a friend of mine brought back some delicious belgium ale: La Chouffe. I am thinking of doing some experiments with the yeast that we cultured, and I thought Id ask if anyone out there in digest land has ever brewed with this yeast. I am particularly interested if anyone cultured it or brewed directly with the dregs. FWIW, La Chouffe is a small craft brewery in Belgium. The beer weighs in at 7.8%vol, and it is actually available on draft in a few locations. I found it in Brugge, at the beer place that M. Jackson talks about in his book and video. A very well made beer! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Dec 1992 15:01 EST From: dab at donner.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard) Subject: results of vanilla brew hey now- you may remember from a couple of months ago that i was looking to do a batch of brew with vanilla beans and was looking for suggestions. well, i went ahead and did it and wanted to let you know how it turned out. here's the recipe: Vanilla Bean Stout (5 gal) 2 lb crystal (90L) 4 oz chocolate malt 4 oz black patent malt 2 oz roasted barley 6 lb dark dme 1.5 oz Northern Brewer (60 min) .5 oz Eroica (finish) Wyeast Irish (1098) og = n/a mashed grains for 45 min. at 152 F, sparged to kettle, added dme, etc. i did a normal primary ferment for about a week and then racked to the secondary on top of 4 6" vanilla beans sliced lengthwise down the middle to expose the good stuff. after 3 or 4 days all signs of fermentation stopped with the gravity only at 1022. i let it sit a little while longer and got no improvement. i then pitched an 8oz culture of Narraganset ale yeast (from the yeast culturing kit) in an attempt to fire the thing up again. i let it sit for about 3 more weeks before bottling. the final gravity was 1018. hmmm. anyway, the final product has a really nice blend of roasted malt and vanilla, almost like a vanilla-flavored coffee. i noticed a lot of oil from the beans in the secondary, though, and not surprisingly the head retention is very poor. when you swirl the beer around in the glass it foams up but then it just slides down the sides in a kind of oily manner. the aroma is outstanding. i'm extremely happy with the beer and will definitely do it again. i might cut back to 2 or 3 beans, however, especially if i do a porter. so there you go. now go out and try it yourself, you'll like the results. coming next week: kiwi wheat... dab ========================================================================= dave ballard dab at cc.bellcore.com ========================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 10:38:34 MST From: scojam at scojam.Auto-trol.COM (Scott James.) Subject: iodine test & buffering sparge water I've used iodine to test a small piece of grain as an indicator of starch conversion and it seems to work. I pull out a grain sample and put it in a white plate. After adding a drop of iodine, I look to see if it remains light brown or turns dark blue (starch present). Sometimes it takes upwards of two hours for complete conversion! I think my mash is to dilute (around 2-3 gallons in 6-8 lbs pale malt). I found that buffering my sparge water (2-3 gallons) with 1/2 teaspoon gypsum greatly increased my extraction rates. Does anybody else do this to? I live in Denver (rocky mountain stream water) so maybe our water needs a little mineral supplement? - --=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-- Scott James scojam at Auto-Trol.COM Ham (N0LHX) -:- Guitarist Auto-Trol Technology HomeBrewer - Student Pilot Denver, Colorado USA - --=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 14:10:34 EST From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: Brewpubs (almost) legal in Michigan The MI State Senate passed the long-awaited "Brewpub" bill on the last day of the session this year. This bill creates a new class of brewery: the "brewpub". A restaurant or bar that *already has a liquor license* can brew beer *for consumption on the premises*. A given individual (or Inc.? After all, incorporated entities are usually treated as individuals in the law.) can only own a single brewpub. Despite the obvious limitations, many of us are ecstatic that we've gotten this far. (The bill needs to be signed by the gov, but I've been told that that's basically irrelevant. It was passed by both houses "with immediate effect", so he will need to explicitly veto it or it goes into effect in 14 days from passage, anyway. Since basically nobody is against the law (not even the commercial brewers), it is very unlikely he would veto it.) In fact, there's a brewpub planned for Ann Arbor. These folks have been proceeding with their plans, on the assumption that the bill would pass (they did hire a lobbyist to help make that assumption valid). Shamelessly lifted from the Ann Arbor News, December 5, 1992: By Dave Wilkins A local couple has overcome the most daunting obstacle to their plans to bring a West Coast phenomenon, the brewpub, to downtown Ann Arbor. The state Senate cleared the way late Thursday - the last day of the current legislative session - by passing a bill to allow brewpubs to operate in Michigan. Barry Seifer and Jennifer Kirscht say the Senate's action, if signed into law by the governor, puts them on track to open Grizzly Peak Brewing Co. in a historically renovated downtown building on May 1. It would be the first such brewpub in Michigan and would employ an estimated 100 people. "We are ready to start construction right after the first of the year," Seifer said Friday about the proposed brewpub, which would produce specialty beers and serve them on the premises. At Grizzly Peak, Seifer and Kirscht say they will serve high- quality, non-pasteurized beers, stock a full bar and offer both tavern food and a quieter upscale dining area. They plan a room for banquets and another featuring live music, while also operating a home furnishings store in a third-floor loft. The site is at two buildings formerly occupied by the Cracked Crab restaurant in the 100 block of West Washington Street. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1992 16:11:19 -0800 (PST) From: Peter Maxwell <peterm at aoraki.dtc.hp.com> Subject: when to pitch a starter? I'm about to embark on my first ever use of liquid yeast. I've made up a starter of 1 pint of wort and am waiting for the frothies to start. This raises the question on exactly when to pitch this starter. In particular: 1. The instructions indicate "at high krausen". Is this the normally done practice? 2. Why the above? What happens if one waits until the starter is fermented out and all activity ceases? I would have thought that the yeast are continually multiplying during fermentation, as well as during aerobic respiration, so that the maximum cell count would result from using it later. 3. In conjunction with 2, I gather the yeast go dormant at the end of fermentation, but so what? When beer is bottled, fermentation has definitely stopped, but the yeast happily rapidly ferments the priming sugar. So what's the difference between this and pitching fermented-out starter into fresh wort? I'm confused, please help. Thanks. Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 15:44:34 CST From: whg at tellabs.com Subject: "grapefruit" Hops I've found that high alpha hops give even more of the grapefruit taste when use at the end of the boil. I've gotten a ton with centennial, which makes sense as it is the high alpha version of cascade. I've also (I think, don't have my notes) gotten it with chinoks and others. Walt "~a Walter Gude || whg at tellabs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 92 23:20 CST From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Sparging >From: Phil Hultin <HULTINP at QUCDN.QueensU.CA> >Recent postings have wondered about why sparge the mash. It was suggested that instead of using x litres of mash and y litres of sparge, just use (x+y) litres in the mash to get the same effect. THIS WILL NOT GIVE THE SAME EXTRACT. Sparging is a more efficient way of removing the sugars from the grains than is single batch extraction. >The reason for this is rather difficult to explain without pictures, but maybe can be demonstrated by example. You did a fine job without pictures. I painted one in my modest brain while reading your explanation and felt very humble not having figured it out myself. I could have probably even come up with the 20% loss without ever running the tests. If we run off 10 gals of wort at 1.040 from, let's say 12 lbs of grain, all we need to know is how much liquid is still in the wet grain. We know what the gravity is and I would guess that there is problably 2 gals of water. Close enough to 20% for discussion purposes and 20% is enough to make sparging worth the trouble. Nice contribution Phil. I will admit that I was expecting all sorts of expert testimony that it would make lousy beer for reasons of chemestry but there were only a very few feeble offerings in that realm. js Return to table of contents
Date: 12 Dec 92 16:56:57 SAST From: DBIRCH at eleceng.uct.ac.za Subject: Good Wheatbeer A pub has just opened near my home, and it sells a good selection of imported beers. Can anyone advise me on what would be good to try? I was thinking along the lines of a German Wheat beer or anything unlike the beers we get here (Lager pilsener lager and more lager) Other than that, does anybody have a recipe for nachos? I need an interesting snack to go with my beer. Thanks Dave David Birch UCT - --------------------------------------------------------- Where do people get all those witty quotes they use in their signature files? - --------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 02:34 EST From: Carlo Fusco <G1400023 at NICKEL.LAURENTIAN.CA> Subject: Questions about imports Hello everyone, I have a few questions about imported beer in Canada. Tonight I tried Simpatico amber and golden. What confused me is that the golden is brewed in Mexico and the amber is brewed in the USA. Is Simpatico a Mexican or American company by origin? What rating is the amber for hops, asuming American Bud is a 2 and Pilsner Urquell is a 20? A question for Canadians from Ontario. Has anyone tried importing beer by the Vinage's division of the liquor store? If yes, what type of mark up should I expect? I want to get a case [24] of Sierra Nivada Pale Ale [I would like to try it since I hear so much about it], but the people at the liquor store never heard of it. Now a question for American's. I had the opertunity to try the Samual Adams Boston Ale. What are people's opinions of this beer?...I liked it, there is nothing like it in Canada, from a domestic view point. Finally, I have an update for the brewing on-line list I have been updating. My problem now is that the list is greater than the 8K allowed by the HBD. Is there a way around this limit or must I now submit it to the archive? If I have to submit it to the archive, how do I do it? Thanks to everyone Carlo Fusco g1400023 at nickel.laurentian.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 16:56:45 -0500 From: bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Rob Bradley) Subject: yeast's tolerance of alcohol I racked a gallon of cyser today. Using M&F dry, the gravity fell from 1082 to 1002 in only 3 weeks. I was somewhat disappointed: I used ale yeast instead of, e.g., champagne yeast to get a higher final gravity. I figured the alcohol would kill off the yeast somewhere around 8% alcohol by volume, leaving me an FG of 1020 or above. Does anybody have any information as to the levels of alcohol our familiar yeasts (liquid and dry) find toxic? Would I have done better using some Wyeast? [Given that Bigfoot is made with 1056, that one's abviously not a candidate.] Cheers, Rob (bradley at adx.adelphi.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 92 18:29 EDT From: MIKE LELIVELT <MJL%UNCVX1.BITNET at VTVM2.CC.VT.EDU> Subject: Cleaning stoves after boil overs Well after fifteen batches, I got cocky and walked away from a covered pot and I paid the boil over price for the first time. I KNOW this has been discussed here before but I never paid any attention. How to I get this crap off of my stove? I've tried "Soft-Scrub" but it just doesn't cut it. Please, if I don't get this off my wife might leave me else quit brewing. I'd really miss her too. MIKE Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1992 22:19:43 -0600 From: Todd Enders - WD0BCI <enders at plains.NoDak.edu> Subject: Perfect Brew! :-) The subject line is a bit loaded, but bear with me. The results speak for themselves. Yesterday I made a batch of Best Bitter/ESB, using the following ingredients: Special Bitter #9 7# US 2-row pale malt 1# 60L Crystal Malt 0.5# Wheat Malt 1 oz. Black Patent Malt 1 oz. 10.9% alpha Centennial hops Wyeast 1028 Mash in: 12 qt. at 140F Mash: 60 min. at 150-156 F pH 5.2 Mash out: 15 min. at 170F Sparge: 5 gal. acidified to pH 5.8 w/lactic acid. Boil: 90 minutes Hops: 1 addition, 45 min. from end. Nothing unusual at this point, but note well the following: OG: 1.058 (!!!) I used the theoretical values in Miller's CHoHB, and the SG points avail- able from the grain bill were 290. Multiply 58 by 5 and be amazed as I was! Yes, I got 100% of theoretical extraction, and only sparged 5 gal.! How? I'll describe my sparge procedure this time, because I believe herein lies the key. For lautering, I use the bucket in bucket tun. I'd suspect that it's the same as many other brewers use. It isn't insulated, or anything fancy. Sparge water was acidified with lactic acid ala Miller. Here's the difference. I recirculated the initial runoff for the equivalent of 6 gal. Then I began the sparge with 1/2 of the water heated to 170F and recirculated it once. I finished up with the last 2.5 gal., which was also recirculated once. Total sparge time was about 2.5 hours. The sparge was a good bit longer than usual, but those results!!! The runoff was reheated between recirculations, BTW. The last runnings had no preceivable tannic taste. The gods must have been watching over me, since after the boil and cooling I had *exactly* 5 gal. in the primary. Right on the mark, no question. This was the first time I had tried Centennial hops. I've tended to lean toward Perle hops for bittering, but I've changed my mind! If you haven't tried them, they are a wonderful high alpha hop, with the bittering reminiscent of spruce/evergreen. Tasty! It might help that I have them from the 1992 crop. :-) They came from Freshops, BTW. So is this *really* the perfect brew? I'll let you know in a few weeks! Todd =============================================================================== Todd Enders - WD0BCI ARPA: enders at plains.nodak.edu Computer Center UUCP: ...!uunet!plains!enders Minot State University or: ...!hplabs!hp-lsd!plains!enders Minot, ND 58701 Bitnet: enders at plains =============================================================================== Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1032, 12/14/92