HOMEBREW Digest #1084 Wed 24 February 1993

Digest #1083 Digest #1085

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Why does my beer smell like bubble gum? (Joel Birkeland)
  queries correction (Kirk Anderson)
  Yeats on Beer and Politics (Paul dArmond)
  Carbonation w/ Dry Ice? (J. Michael Diehl)
  Gelatin, London beers, Hydrometer readings (Desmond Mottram)
  Sierra Nevada Bock? (Michael D. Galloway)
  Printing labels on a laser printer (Jeff J. Miller)
  labels for laser printer (John Adams)
  removing foam scum ("Daniel K. Yee")
  Fermenter geometry ("Bob Jones")
  More yeast when bottling cold lagers (Will Leavitt)
  laser labels (Ulick Stafford)
  Beer Labels for laser printers (Bob_Konigsberg)
  Phenolic flavours (long) part I (G.A.Cooper)
  Phenolic flavours, part II (G.A.Cooper)
  Hot Tip on dry hopping! ("Bob Jones")
  Curious about Copper (Markham R. Elliott)
  Labels for laser printer (Steve Jacobs)
  mailing homebrew (Lance Encell)
  Re: pH Meters,O2 (Sherman Gregory)
  Wort Aeration (Guy McConnell)
  Sankey valve removal tool (Guy McConnell)
  Celis Wit in Boston (Jim Grady)
  Farewell wherever you fare (Guy McConnell)
  hbd1081 re: semi-beginner question (Tom Haley)
  Refractometers and Hydrometers ("John Cotterill")
  WYeast (Doug Cripe)
  >queries (Andy Rowan)
  Re: Several (Richard Stueven)
  Re: All-grain vs. extract (David Van Iderstine)
  pH is temperature dependent (Keith A. MacNeal HLO1/T09 225-6171  22-Feb-1993 1426)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 20 Feb 93 13:02:21 MST From: birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland) Subject: Why does my beer smell like bubble gum? A few questions for those with more homebrewing experience: 1) Why does my homebrew smell like bubblegum? This is my third batch; I used the following ingredients: 7 lb. container of Steinbart's Light liquid malt extract 0.5 lb. dried light malt extract 1 lb. crushed crystal malt 1.5 oz cascade pellet hops (60 min) 0.5 oz cascade hop pellets (10 min) 1.2 oz cascade hop flowers (1 min) 2 tsp gypsum 0.5 tsp salt 1 qt. Wyeast 1056 starter I put 1.5 gallons distilled water in a stainless pot. I steeped the crystal malt about 30 min as the water was heating up, then removed before full boil. Added extracts, salt, gypsum, boiling hops, then aroma hops as indicated. Placed boiling pot into sink full of ice cubes and chilled to ~80 degrees F. Poured into carboy, without attempting to strain out pellet hop residue. Topped with presumably sterile bottled water. Pitched yeast solution when I felt that the wort had cooled to room temp. The next morning, about 12 hours after pitching, there was noticable activity. 36 hours after pitching, the fermentation was furious, and had actually churned up the trub into suspension. BTW, I used a blow-off tube. After 10 days, I bottled with 0.75 C corn sugar. 7 days after bottling, I tried one. Carbonation was OK, but the beer smelled of bubblegum. My wife thinks it smells like licorice, but to me it smells like a fresh package of Bazooka Joe. Does anyone know why this happened? I realize that I haven't given it very long in the bottle. I seem to remember reading about this phenomenon somewhere before, but I haven't been able to find it. 2) I would really like to replicate Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. I really like its hoppy aroma. My second batch of homebrew (recipe almost exactly that given for batch #3, above) had good hop aroma, but it disappeared after about 1 - 2 weeks. The above batch has almost no hop aroma; maybe it is masked by the bubble gum scent. Why can't I get this nice hop aroma? I have a few ideas: a) My hops are not fresh enough. b) boiling bag reduces hop aroma extraction c) I need to dry hop the beer d) Hop aroma carried off during blow-off If anyone can help me out here, I would appreciate it. Thanks a lot for your help. Joel Birkeland birkelan at cs1.sps.mot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1993 20:12:31 -1100 From: Kirk_Anderson at wheatonma.edu (Kirk Anderson) Subject: queries correction I asked if anyone had tried the Abbey Beer kit by "Brew Werk". Of course I meant "Brew Ferm" as you probably guessed. Not such a good showing for my first HBD intervention:(. Say did anyone catch The Simpsons last Thursday, the only show that tells the truth about America? Case in point: Homer skipped out of work to go on the tour of the "Duff" brewery. The guide boasted about Duff, Duff Lite, and new Duff Dry. The three huge tanks with those brands on them were being filled, all out of the same mega-pipe. If you don't look at the show, reconsider. No I don't work for Fox. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1993 10:03:26 -0800 (PST) From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: Yeats on Beer and Politics I just found the following quote in the current issue of "Steamshovel Press" at the end of an interview with Robert Anton Wilson. "A statesman is an easy man, he tells his lies by rote. A journalist invents his lies, and rams them down your throat. So stay at home and drink your beer and let the neighbors vote." - William Butler Yeats I don't agree with the sentiment, but others may like it... Paul (silence does not imply consent) de Armond -not that I've been accused of silence, mind you. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 2:50:37 MST From: J. Michael Diehl <mdiehl at triton.unm.edu> Subject: Carbonation w/ Dry Ice? I think this was rehashed some time ago, but I missed the discussion. Anyway, a friend and I have decided to try homebrewing and would like to brew a bier that we could share with our friends. Unfortunately, most of our friends would be turned off by a bier with "bugs" floating around in it. So we were wondering if we could carbonate our bier with dry ice. We were thinking of putting some in the bier at bottling time. The dry ice should sublimate directly into solution with the bier. Might take some experimentation to find the dosage, but what do you think? Thanx in advance. +----------------------+----------------------------------------------------+ | J. Michael Diehl ;-) | I thought I was wrong once. But, I was mistaken. | | +----------------------------------------------------+ | mdiehl at triton.unm.edu| "I'm just looking for the opportunity to be | | Thunder at forum | Politically Incorrect! | | (505) 299-2282 | <me> | +----------------------+----------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 10:29:05 GMT From: des at pandora.swindon.ingr.com (Desmond Mottram) Subject: Gelatin, London beers, Hydrometer readings > From: "Dean Roy" <DEAN at alpha.uwindsor.ca> > Subject: Gelatin Finings > > Can someone tell me if there is any difference between the gelatin finings > sold in homebrew stores and the plain unflavored gelatin you can buy at the > supermarket. I have a supply of the supermarket variety and was considering > using some on my latest batch. I always use the supermarket variety as I've never seen the HB store variety. It seems to do the trick. > From: whjeh at hogpa.ho.att.com (John E Haas +1 201 386 4376) > Subject: London Pubs and Breweries > > I'll be in London and Southern England for a week > in March and I'm wondering if anybody can recommend > some pubs and/or breweries to visit. When in London the best beers are Fullers and Youngs. Fullers is brewed in Chiswick and is common in West London, Youngs is brewed in Wandsworth and common in south west London. The (once) good chain of "Firkin" (as in a Firkin good pint) brewpubs eg Phoenix & Firkin, Frog & Firkin etc are also worth trying. Try the following pubs: Anglesea Arms, South Kensington County Arms, Wandsworth Dove, Hammersmith Hand in Hand, Wimbledon Orange Tree, Pimlico (brewpub) Princess Louise, Holborn Spotted Cow, Putney Thatched House, Hammersmith White Cross, Richmond Windmill, Clapam Common Get copies of CAMRA publications: Good Beer Guide (national coverage, available in bookshops) various local guides (available from CAMRA and some local bookshops) London Drinker Magazine (available in some pubs, eg Dove and Anglesea) Also Good Pub Guide (avaliable in bookshops), as good beers and good pubs don't necessarily go together. CAMRA often recommends good beer in grotty pubs. Only if both guides recommend it can the place be a certain hit. > From: Kirk_Anderson at wheatonma.edu (Kirk Anderson) > Subject: queries ... > 1) hydrometer reading: at the highest level the wort climbs up the > instrument, or at the bottom of the curve? I've been reading at the > highest part. Crude experiments with plain tapwater at 60 degrees suggest > I'm right. Line, Wheeler and the notes that came with my hydrometer say not so. Stir the brew remove density layers, twirl the hydrometer to shake off bubbles below the surface, read the bottom of the meniscus. and remember to correct for temperature. Surface bubbles clinging to the scale obscuring it are a real pain. Does anyone have suggestions for preventing this? I always blow a hole on the surface and keep blowing gently to stop more bubbles collecting, but it can't be good for hygiene. Rgds, Desmond Mottram des at pandora.swindon.ingr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1993 09:36:42 -0500 From: mgx at ornl.gov (Michael D. Galloway) Subject: Sierra Nevada Bock? Well I did the dirty deed this weekend: My first all grain batch (batch number 25). The recipe was supposed to be SNPA: 10 lb British Pale Ale Malt 0.5 lb British Crystal Malt (50 L) 1 oz Perle (8.1%) 1/2 oz Cascade Whole Hops - Flavor 1 oz Cascade Whole Hops - To Be Dry Hopped Next Week 500 ml Starter of WYeast 1056 Mashed the pale ale malt and crystal in 13 quarts treated (i.e. boiled) water at 150 F for 1.5 hr in a 10 gal Gott with a Phils Phalse Bottem. Sparged with 4+ gal acidified (1/8 tsp "acid blend") to pH = 5.5 water at 170 F. Sparged to 6.5 gal. The gravity at 6.5 gal was 1053. This implies: (53 pts) X (6.5gal) / 10.5 lbs = 32.8 pts/lb/gal ! When boiled to 5.5 gal and racked to primary that yields an OG of 62.6. What should I call this stuff? Sierra Nevada Potent Ale? Anyway, the mash went very well. The temperature drop was only two degrees over the 1.5 hrs (I preheated the Gott). Now sparging, that is another story. I was somewhat overwhelmed by the sparging: I kept drawing off wort and recirculating it but it never seemed to clear the way I expected it. I finally said to hell with it and ran off the initial wort and proceded to sparge with water to 6.5 gal. There was still good sugar in the sparge at this point. What is the lowdown on sparging? How much do YOU recirculate? Am I needlessly worrying? All in all, an interesting adventure and it went much easier than I expected. Maybe Sierra Nevada Helles Bock? Michael D. Galloway mgx at ornl.gov Living in the WasteLand Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 8:50:14 CST From: jmiller at anubis.network.com (Jeff J. Miller) Subject: Printing labels on a laser printer > Has anyone found a good solution to the challenge of trying to > print labels for beer bottles on a laser printer? > > I've got some ideas for things I could do up on the computer > and print out, but I'm afraid if I use the usual mailing label > type labels, I'll never get them off the bottles again. > > Any ideas? I located some 3/4" round labels that are designed for use on a laser printer; unfortunatly they seemed EXTREMELY expensive at $15 a box but I don't recall how many labels were in a box. I've used this size label before by writing on them and then sticking them on the caps; no mess on the bottle! It seems that with the proper font you could get beer name and possibly bottling date or other info. - -- Jeff Miller Network Systems Corporation Advanced Development 7625 Boone Avenue North jmiller at network.com Minneapolis MN 55428 (612)424-1724 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 08:28:58 -0700 From: John Adams <j_adams at hpfcjca.sde.hp.com> Subject: labels for laser printer I just print my artwork on regular paper and, using Elmer's glue, attach the label to the bottle. In this manner the label can be easily removed. John Adams Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 10:09:01 -0500 From: "Daniel K. Yee" <yee at a1.relay.upenn.edu> Subject: removing foam scum - ------- Forwarded message Posted: Mon, 22 Feb 93 00:00:01 -0500 Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 10:09:01 -0500 Author: Hello all. Most of my previous brews have been fermented in five gallon glass carboys used as primary fermenters followed by secondary fermentation in another glass carboy. Since I have always been somewhat bothered about the quart or two loss of beer from the blowoff of the primary fermenter, I recently invested in a 6.5 gallon glass carboy. Since my new primary has a larger headspace, I do not get any lost due to blowoff. The beer that I have subsequently produced have been good, but now I find that it has a tad more of a bitter "bite" than before (but this only means a slightly longer aging time before consuming the brew). Any suggestions as to how to remove the scummy resinous brown globs that float on the foam in a sanitary fashion? (Yes, I do believe that the blowoffs from my previous setup remove the "nasties" and hence yield a smoother beer.) Eagerly awaiting your suggestions, Dan "Sven" Yee  - ------- End of Forwarded message Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 07:49:20 PST From: "Bob Jones" <bjones at novax.llnl.gov> Subject: Fermenter geometry During my discussion with Pierre Celis, the subject of fermenter geometry came up. He mentioned that the head or foam cap in a shallow open fermenter was much more dense and stable than one in a closed smaller fermenter. He said he don't understand it either. I know when I visit Anchor and see their fermentations at high krausen I am only getting a snap shot of the fermentation. Say Russ, when you've walked by that room several nites in a row, have you EVER seen that foam fall? I don't know how any of this would apply to us, it is just an interesting observation and may explain how open fermentation can be safe in some cases. Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 10:54:45 EST From: leavitt at mordor.hw.stratus.com (Will Leavitt) Subject: More yeast when bottling cold lagers After many successful Ales, I decided to try my hand at a true lager: basic extract/crystal malt oktoberfest recipe with Wyeast Bavarian liquid yeast. Its been in the secondary for about a month at 40-45F. Do I need to add more yeast when I bottle it? Some folks around here say I should, others say that lager yeasts like the cold and will be ready to go as soon as I add in priming sugar and give a stir. One more data point: I'm dry hopping with a whole plug of hallertauer, which is floating in a mass at the top of the fermenter. Will this act to precipitate yeast out of solution? -will Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 10:28:34 EST From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at bernini.helios.nd.edu> Subject: laser labels Andy Rowen asks about laser printer labels. I always use a laser printer to print my labels, but I don't use Avery lables. I use post-consumer recycled paper (i.e. the other side of previously printed upon sheets!). I print 8 to a sheet and cut on a paper cutter, and stick to the bottles with a glue stick. They stay stuck on but come off easily when you want them to. __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 | ulick at bach.helios.nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 08:05 PST From: Bob_Konigsberg at 3mail.3com.com Subject: Beer Labels for laser printers In HBD 1082 Andy Rowan asks about beer labels for laser printers. 3M (No I don't own stock in them), makes at least one kind of 8 1/2 X 11 laser printer label. Its adhesive is the post-it note kind, i.e., removeable. They may also make one with stronger adhesive, since I've found that the post-it note kind, tends to peel off when the bottle is put into the refrigerator. The main deal here though is that you can print up 9 labels on a single page, and then cut them up. There are 3 score lines across the backing so that you can peel the backing paper off once the labels are printed. BobK Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1993 14:19:29 +0000 From: G.A.Cooper at qmw.ac.uk Subject: Phenolic flavours (long) part I Hi. I was recently asked by some colleagues to write a few notes on the problems of phenolic off-flavours in beers. The following summarises my views of what I have read on the subject. I thought you might be interested. What I would like is comments and suggestions on where I might be in error, or where I should make changes to improve clarity. It (just) exceeds the 8K limit so the end is in another message. Many thanks in advance. Geoff -o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o- TCP TCP is a term used by amateur beermakers in the UK to refer to a particular group of off-flavours and odours reminiscent of a commercially available antiseptic. These taints, although not necessarily just trichlorophenols, are caused by phenolic compounds. Beer will, typically, contain 100-200 parts per million (ppm) of tannins ("tannin" being a term referring to a large group of polyphenolic compounds) which come predominantly from the barley, although there is some contribution from the hops. Whilst in this form the flavour threshold is quite high, when combined with chlorine their contribution to flavour is quite out of proportion to their concentration. The flavour thresholds for chlorinated phenols is around 2-3 parts per billion (ppb). The common causes of this taint are summarised along with suggestions of how the taint might be avoided. Water Supply Chlorination is the almost universal method of sterilising domestic water supplies. In the distribution system, chlorine gas can be dissolved directly in the water, a hypochlorite (e.g. sodium hypochlorite) can be added to the water, or a chloramine process may be used. Whilst the first two methods perform in fundamentally the same way, chloramines, which are produced by combining chlorine with ammonia, persist many times longer than free residual chlorine. Chloramines are particularly useful on long transmission lines and where reliable penetration into stagnant areas of the distribution system is needed. Although the level of chlorine in the water should be less than 1 ppm, it is necessary for it to be removed before using the water to make beer. To be safe, chlorine must not come in contact with the phenols naturally occurring in wort and beer so all added water must be treated wherever it is used in the beermaking process, including water used in diluting a beer to produce a beer of lower gravity. If the supply is also contaminated with phenols then reactions will occur resulting in unavoidable phenolic flavours. Fortunately this is rare, the World Health Organisation and European regulations specify a permissible limit of 1 ppb of phenolic substances, but water authorities endeavour to remove all of the phenols as a matter of course, so as to avoid undesirable flavours. If it does occur then beverages other than beer, e.g. tea or homemade wine, will also be affected, and the only practical solution is for the water to be passed through an active carbon filter. This method is extremely effective and reliable; it removes all the free chlorine and, if flow rates are not too great, the phenolic compounds also. In the majority of cases, where the supply is not contaminated with phenols, other methods for the removal of chlorine may be employed. Commercially, a common recommendation is the addition of sulphur dioxide, followed by rousing. The sulphur dioxide almost instantaneously reacts with the free chlorine and also removes any chloramines in just a few minutes. It is normal for sodium (or potassium) metabisuphite to be used at the rate of 1-2 mg per litre. The addition of one campden tablet to five gallons of water will supply in excess of ten times the required dose. It should be noted that this method affects the levels of salts in the water, which might be undesirable, but which should be allowed for in any subsequent water treatment. It is more normal, however, for the amateur simply to boil the water to drive off the chlorine. A boil of 20 minutes is usually sufficient and this is no imposition because most water treatments prior to brewing involve boiling the water. Sterilisers Chlorine from sterilising agents such as domestic bleach or commercial cleansing agents, inadvertently left in fermenting bins, on cooling coils or other equipment could be responsible for the taint. All equipment, if sterilised initially with chlorine containing agents should be thoroughly rinsed, preferably with a dilute metabisulphite solution, prior to use. Wort Bacteria Very few breweries, especially home breweries, are free from contamination with enterobacteria which, if their growth proceeds to any great extent, can impart very noticeable odours and flavours to the beer. In particular, contamination with Hafnia protea (formerly Obesumbacterium proteus) or the coliform bacteria Escherichia coli and those of genus Klebsiella (Aerobacter), can be the cause of phenolic or medicinal taints. They can also be responsible for other off- flavours including a parsnip odour and the production of celery-like flavours, and can influence the development of high levels of diacetyl. The action of these bacteria is severely inhibited during the progress of fermentation, as the pH drops and the alcohol rises, but they multiply quite rapidly during the early stages and, if allowed a sufficiently strong foothold, will leave behind significant levels of their metabolic products. The H. protea bacterium is also quite capable of surviving fermentation and appears to be able to influence yeast metabolism in a way that encourages a high final pH and final gravity of the beer, and thus assists the survival of both it and other enterobacteria. These bacteria, being present in soil and vegetation and also possibly present in very small numbers in the water supply, are readily introduced into a brewery. Once established, they can be persistent and difficult to remove, and are frequently transferred, in the pitching yeast or by contaminated equipment, onto successive brews. Beer is at its most vulnerable between the cooling of the wort and the time that a strong and active ferment is underway, so this period must be kept to as short as possible. The normally low pH of wines means that these bacteria are usually inhibited and their presence is unlikely to cause phenolic flavours in home made wines. Also, the naturally high acidity of roasted grains means that dark beers are less susceptible to these problems and, conversely, the higher pH of lagers makes them more vulnerable. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1993 14:20:20 +0000 From: G.A.Cooper at qmw.ac.uk Subject: Phenolic flavours, part II The concluding part of the phenolic flavours article Geoff -o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o- Wild Yeasts Wild yeast can be the cause of a number of problems in beer. In addition to off-flavours the most common are surface films, turbidity and gushing. Phenolic flavours are known to be produced by certain wild yeasts, including some strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, and S. carlsbergensis. Also certain strains have developed the ability to kill other sensitive yeasts and, under appropriate conditions, can begin to dominate fermentation. A number of these strains, otherwise suitable for brewing, are characterised by the unacceptable production of medicinal flavours. It may be worth noting the, perhaps extreme, case where one of the strains of yeast used to ferment Bavarian wheat beers produces 4-vinyl guaiacol. This gives the beer its characteristic "clovelike" phenolic flavour. Avoiding problems with wild yeasts is essentially a matter of pitching yeasts free of infection and keeping equipment clean. Continued reuse of a yeasts from previous brews can, over time, contribute to a build up of contamination. Avoiding Phenolic Off-flavours 1.The quality of domestic water supplies clearly varies greatly throughout the country, and within a single district is subject to seasonal fluctuation. All added water should be boiled prior to use and in extreme cases it might be necessary to filter the water through an active carbon filter prior to this boiling. As an alternative chlorine may be removed by the addition of metabisulphite but the added salts may make this undesirable. 2.Any equipment that might come in contact with the wort or beer, if sterilised initially with chlorine containing agents must be thoroughly rinsed, preferably with a dilute metabisuphite solution before use. 3.Microbial infections should be avoided by rapidly cooling the boiled and strained wort and getting the fermentation off to a good start by the addition of a sufficient quantity of an active yeast starter. If yeasts are being re-used from previous batches, fresh cultures should be obtained at regular intervals. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 08:20:57 PST From: "Bob Jones" <bjones at novax.llnl.gov> Subject: Hot Tip on dry hopping! Ok boys and girls here is the hot tip of the month... During the Calif. Allstate Competition I judged Barley wines with Steve Harrison from Sierra Nevada. I mentioned to Steve how much better this years Celebration Ale was than last years. It was more like it used to be about 8 years ago. He said it was the same exact recipe as last year! The ONLY thing they did different was seal the fermentor after dry hopping to reduce scrubbing the aromatics out with CO2 release. Ok, I went home and tried this technique on a batch. What I did was rack to a 5 gallon keg and place the dry hops in a nylon bag with a big brass ball in it to help sink the bag and hops. I then sealed the keg and applied a small pressure. Everyday as a passed by the kegs I gave it a sort of rocking motion. After 1 week I opened the keg and fished out the hop bag with a coat hanger that had been staightened. I resealed keg, cooled and artificially carbonated. The results are really amazing! I have dry hopped many times and NEVER had the results this technique provides. The resultant beer is like taking a hand full of hops and rubbing them in your face with ever glass. The beers head and clarity are amazing at two weeks. I did use 1 oz per 5 gallons and they were Centenials and very fresh. I will cut back on the next dry hopped batch. You keggers must give this a try. I'm already thinking about the next batch, a Pilsener with 100% Saaz and dry hopped with Saaz. Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 16:36:09 GMT From: u4imdmre at cpc41.cpc.usace.army.mil (Markham R. Elliott) Subject: Curious about Copper Just a question out of idle curiosity that one of you chemists or historians out there may be able to answer. This weekend my father-in-law cycled over for a visit and we got on the subject of brewing. He is an ex-FBI agent, and was retelling a story about an investigation of an employee of the Pabst Brewery in (Milwaukee ?) back in the late 40's. At any rate, we started talking about the machinery and processes etc (I have been known to be a gadget freak). We both started wondering about why copper is the traditional material of choice in most parts of the brewing process. We never figured it out, so I told him I'd ask the Digest. Is copper's use a carry over from the days before stainless or is there some quality about the metal that makes it the most desirable. Although I minored in Chemistry years ago, it wasn't/isn't my strong suite, so any answers in semi-technical/laymans terms would be appreciated and understood better. (Grammer wasn't my either favorite). Noch einmal, bitte!! Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 11:47:43 EST From: steve at garnet.spawar.navy.mil (Steve Jacobs) Subject: Labels for laser printer > Andy Rowan writes: > > Has anyone found a good solution to the challenge of trying to > print labels for beer bottles on a laser printer? I purchased a package of 25 pre-gummed, water-based adhesive sheets of 8 1/2" X 11" paper specifically designed for making labels. They come off the bottle easily with warm water. The package states that it is photocopier safe (although they do not guarantee compatibility with all brands of photocopiers). I bought mine for $3.99 from: Brew America 138 Church Street N.E. Suite F Vienna Virginia 22180 (703) 938-4805 Standard disclaimers apply. Steve Jacobs (KSI Inc) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 11:19:18 CST From: lencell at unmc.edu (Lance Encell) Subject: mailing homebrew I'm looking for tips or advice on sending a case of homebrew from Omaha, NE to New York City. Any help will be appreciated. -Lance (lencell at unmc.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1993 09:25:38 -0800 From: sherman at qualcomm.com (Sherman Gregory) Subject: Re: pH Meters,O2 >on the subj of pH meters - i recently got one from HANNA (shucks found out >it is made in italy :0). anyway does anyone have one of these? do you >notice a fluctuation between hot and cold temps of the same sample? I just got one of these also, and did some experimentation to test for this. I did NOT see any variation with temp. Maybe there is something in your water that is changing as when it heats up. Have you gone back and forth in temp a couple of times with the same water to see if this is repeatable? The instructions imply that the readings should be good over a temp range of 0 to 50 deg C (32 to 122 deg F). I see some seeming random variations with mine of about .1 units, but I see no obvious correlation to temperature. >i have also >heard that using pure O2 is not very good - most bottles o2 contains an >additive used to prevent "stuff" growing (for hospital use), it is very >explosive and too much purew o2 can be toxic to yeast..... although i have >heard that divers O2 should be fine. The local Brew pub that I frequent (Callahan's) uses pure O2 (at least it comes from a green bottle). His beer comes out good. Next time I see the brewer I will ask him what grade of O2 he uses. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 11:37:30 CST From: gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com (Guy McConnell) Subject: Wort Aeration Joe Rolfe writes: > i finally got a re-pitch to work. i had problems with stucks and in > conversations with Mike Sharp and SHeri Almeda the major problem was O2 > and areation. [...] > so if in doubt areate the hell out it. i used an oiless compressor with > .2 ucron filter and connecteded to the bottom valve of the fermenter. a hose > dropped into the wort should do fine if you can get it to the bottom for top > opening vessels. but always use a filter to get "sterile air". i have also > heard that using pure O2 is not very good - most bottles o2 contains an > additive used to prevent "stuff" growing (for hospital use), it is very > explosive and too much purew o2 can be toxic to yeast..... although i have > heard that divers O2 should be fine. That's because "diver's O2" is actually compressed *air*, not O2 at all. The air that goes into a SCUBA cylinder has to be dry and oil-free, though it is not any more "sterile" than the air it is made from. An aquarium pump with an in-line filter works well for this purpose. - -- Guy McConnell gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com A diver too. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 11:41:11 CST From: gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com (Guy McConnell) Subject: Sankey valve removal tool William M. Seliger writes: > I'm not sure if this topic has come up before, but as long as we're > discussing stainless steel fermenters and fermenting in kegs: > Does anyone know where to get hold of the tool to remove the lock ring > that locks in the downtube in sankey kegs??? > I would imagine that a toolmaker could make one at a great expense, but > SnapOn or someone like that must sell these things (probably also at > great expense). Bev-Con International sells a Sankey Valve Removal Tool for a mere $225.00. Hopefully someone has a more economical solution to your dilemma than that. - -- Guy McConnell gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com "All I need is a pint a day" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 12:48:22 EST From: Jim Grady <jimg at hpwarga.wal.hp.com> Subject: Celis Wit in Boston Some one mentioned that Celis Wit should be available in Boston by now. Does anyone know where I can find it? After all the descriptions here, I am eager to try it! Thanks. - -- Jim Grady |"Talent imitates, genius steals." Internet: jimg at wal.hp.com | Phone: (617) 290-3409 | T. S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 12:00:40 CST From: gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com (Guy McConnell) Subject: Farewell wherever you fare Well, since I posted two articles this morning and the automagical reply said that there are 51 articles ahead of mine in the queue, I'd better post this today as well if it is to be seen before Friday. Friday, February 26th will be my last day here at Intergraph. I am leaving and going to work in Orlando for another company. My access to the net (and therefore email and the HBD) will cease with my leaving, at least until I buy a PC for home. I have thoroughly enjoyed reading the HBD since 1990 when I subsribed. Access to the Digest, as well as Charlie's book (recommended overwhelmingly by the digest contributors) have made my brewing experiences most pleasant. I read for several months before I jumped in and I have yet to make a single batch that was "bad". At times in the past, as well as of late, the Digest degenerates into a forum for "one-upmanship" and the usually high signal to noise ratio goes the other way. It gets carried out to the ridiculous and none of the participants seem willing to let it drop. It eventually returns to normal, though not without casualty. Witness the formation another brewing forum because of this very thing not so long ago. If I might make a gentle suggestion, think before you post. As someone suggested long ago, if you see a post to which you are considering an inflammatory response, have a homebrew first, sleep on it, and then, if you still must respond in that manner, do it by email. The Digest is constipated now from those wanting to get the last word in on the all-grain vs extract snob issue. Email it! If you simply must post to show your rapier wit or superior knowledge, do it on rec.crafts.brewing since that type of thing is the norm on usenet. You will dazzle many more by doing so, if that is your aim. If it is not, then email was more appropriate anyway. Think about it. My hope is that, by the time I get a connection again, things will be back to normal. In the meantime I raise a glass to you all and I look forward to when our paths cross again. - -- Guy McConnell gdmcconn at mspe5.b11.ingr.com "All I need is a pint a day" Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Feb 93 08:58:00 PST From: Tom Haley <tah at ccgate.SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM> Subject: hbd1081 re: semi-beginner question Chris, I would never boil ANY grains. What I would do is get a grain bag and seep it in your wort until apx 180 deg F. This allows some of the flavor and the nice unfermentables to enhance you beer. Mashing allows you to convert starch to sugar for more fermentables. I always seep something when I am doing and extract batch and sometimes even when doing a full mash. tom Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 10:03:58 PST From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com> Subject: Refractometers and Hydrometers Full-Name: "John Cotterill" Brew Dudes and Dudettes, I have been using a refractometer for a few months now. This past weekend I decided to do an experiment to see how the refractometer readings match up to hydrometer readings on beer. I filled my test jar with an IPA and put my hydrometer in and it read 1.015. I took a drop of the IPA and put it on my refractometer and it read 8.2% Brix. Converting this number to points S.G., its about 1.032!! What gives here? BTW, both numbers are temperature corrected. JC johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 11:11:41 -0700 From: Doug Cripe <doug at crevasse.ATMOS.ColoState.EDU> Subject: WYeast I've got a few questions regarding the use of WYeast. I'm fairly new to the joys of homebrewing, and up till now have only pitched dry yeast. However, over the weekend I decided to hoist myself off the bottom rung of the ladder and try the recipie for an Irish Red Ale that appeared in HBD a few weeks back, which called for the WYeast. My questions are these: 1) The instructions state that a period of incubation is needed (1-3) days before pitching. Why is that? I assume that when you break the inner seal, some sort of ****cose is mixed with the yeast to wake them up from hibernation and thus this is some sort of proofing period to see if they're viable. 2) The rule of thumb is that 1 day is needed for each month beyond the manufacturing date on the foil pouch at the time of purchase. Well, the date stamped on mine was Feb 17, and I bought it on Feb 20, so I concluded that even less incubation time than a day would be necessary - was this a safe conclusion? This suspicion was confirmed by what comes next... 3) Another instruction is that the foil pouch should expand to at least an inch diameter before pitching. I broke the seal, kneaded the pouch well, and set it on top of my water heater which I guessed to be about the recommended 80F degrees for the incubation. I checked on it three hours later, and the pouch had expanded to the point that it was very taut, and I thought it would burst if I waited much longer, so I went ahead and pitched it. The instructions led me to believe that the fact of expansion was more important than the actual length of time of incubation - was that a correct interpretation? 4) My roommate brewed at the same time I did, and he used dry yeast. The next morning his carboy was bubbling merrily (as we've found to be a normal time span for dry yeast), but there wasn't even a hiccup in mine. The following morning, however, mine was also bubbling, though with a tad more melancholy than my roommate's had the morning before. The temperature in the pantry where the fermentation takes place is about 67-70F degrees. Is this slow start normal? Should I expect the total fermentation time to be longer than the usual two weeks? Thanks in advance, Douglas Cripe Atmospheric Science Colorado State University Fort Collins, CO 80523 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 13:10:37 EST From: "David C. Skeldon" (CCAC-LAD) <dskeldon at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: CAUSE/EFFECT ESSAY I am currently writing an essay on the reasons for the growing popularity of homebrewing, and I was wondering if anyone would like to email me some of the reasons that they feel homebrewing is gaining in popularity. Please email me directly. Thanks <dskeldon at pica.army.mil> Dave Skeldon: Owner, Operator, and Chief Brew Meister of Wooddale Brewing Co. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 13:25:45 EST From: rowan at lake.rutgers.edu (Andy Rowan) Subject: >queries Kirk Anderson writes: >2) I've counted on Papazian's book for ages. Must I buy the new revised >version? What do I get that's new (besides an index)? >From what I've seen, not that much. I started by using a friend's copy, which was the old edition. When I bought my own new one, it seemed pretty much the same. Certainly there are differences, and I haven't done any systematic comparison by any means, but probably no need to get the new one since the old one serves so well. Although that index is pretty handy... Example of a change I did notice: in the new one, he has now tried maple-syrup flavored beer and highly recommends it. I also am resisting the temptation to keep the insipid thread alive about extract vs. all-grain. So shut up already, the rest of you. ================================================================= | Andy Rowan | You don't know what I'm | | Cook College Remote Sensing Center | talking about? Don't | | Rutgers University | worry, everyone tells | | rowan at ocean.rutgers.edu | me I don't either. | | (908) 932-9631 | | ================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1993 10:38:53 -0800 From: Richard Stueven <gak at wrs.com> Subject: Re: Several Norm Pyle reminds us: >I will explain my motivation for recently going all-grain: FUN. >I have more fun brewing with grain than with extract. Everything else >(lower cost, more time, less/more control, etc.) is secondary. All >homebrewers clearly have more fun brewing beer than people who just go to the >store and buy it. I have more fun brewing mine with grain. No big deal; >just brew it and have fun (right, gak?) ###### ### # ## # # # #### # # ##### ### ### # # # # # # # # # ### # # ###### # # ###### # # ##### # # # # # ### # # # # # # # # # # # # # ### ### # # # # #### # # # ### # ## have fun gak (an all-grain non-snob) 107/H/3&4 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 14:02:38 EST From: orgasm!davevi at uunet.UU.NET (David Van Iderstine) Subject: Re: All-grain vs. extract Excuse me for noting, but this all-grain vs. extract thread has gotten completely dorky and out of control. Can we get on with other things? DVI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 93 14:26:24 EST From: Keith A. MacNeal HLO1/T09 225-6171 22-Feb-1993 1426 <macneal at pate.enet.dec.com> Subject: pH is temperature dependent ;Date: Thu, 18 Feb 93 11:13:06 EST ;From: Joe Rolfe <jdr at wang.com> ;Subject: pH Meters, Sparge, MM and Extracts ;hi all, ;whew what a subject (forgot, yeast re-pitch, Belgian Ale Book Comments). ;on the subj of pH meters - i recently got one from HANNA (shucks found out ;it is made in italy :0). anyway does anyone have one of these? do you ;notice a fluctuation between hot and cold temps of the same sample? i am not ;sure if mine is defective or what, pH varies by .5 (even after letting it sit ;in the non-ambient temp sample for 1-2 mins)....the probe was calibrated with ;the 7 and 4 solutions minutes before....and soaked in a conditioning solution ;for 30 mins as recomended.... does any one have the temp diffs for pH? pH, much like specific gravity, is dependent on temperature. I would think there would be a temperature correction table that came with your meter. Keith MacNeal Digital Equipment Corp. Hudson, MA Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1084, 02/24/93