HOMEBREW Digest #1163 Wed 16 June 1993

Digest #1162 Digest #1164

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Texas Micros & Brewpubs (drwho2959)
  Source needed for fritted glass disks (Paul dArmond)
  sanitizers part I (donald oconnor)
  Maybe a stupid question, but... (Phillip Seitz)
  Headaches (Phil Hultin)
  COPS in PORTLAND (Stephen Brent Peters)
  Yeast and Acid Washes ("John DeCarlo")
  mangos & prickly pears (LLAPV)
  Homebrew clubs in Baltimore MD (Hal Laurent)
  FILTERING (Jack Schmidling)
  HOMEBREW Digest Distribution List ("Petrovsky Andrey " )
  Stoudts Festival (Jim Busch)
  Recipe for Jalapeno Beer (Vincent Heuring)
  Large Scale Recipies, Hop Utilization, & In-keg Carbination (Daniel A Conners)
  canned beer (John Freeman)
  Slugfest in the Sierras (chris campanelli)
  Kegging suppllies (Phil Duclos)
  Not me in the picture (Mark Garetz)
  Hop Oils (Mark Garetz)
  Re: Dogbolter (Desmond Mottram)
  Re: Refrigeration/Fermenting ("John DeCarlo")
  Fullers ESB (Jim Busch)
  fermentation?...no not yet. (BadAssAstronomer)
  Belgian Beers and Brewpubs-any favorites? (Ethan Mason)
  Beer resources on Long Island (Spencer.W.Thomas)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 12 Jun 93 10:18:03 EDT From: drwho2959 at aol.com Subject: Texas Micros & Brewpubs In HBD1160 J.Hutchison<jhutchin at us.oracle.com> writes the following about Texas micros and brewpubs: "...good micro beer is not available..." This is quite simply UNTRUE!! I live in Houston, and frequently visit several excellent beer bars with literally SCORES of micro draft taps, including Anchor, Sierra Nevada, August Schell, and Boston Beer Company products. The Gingerman in Houston was called "One of the best beer bars in America" by none other than the famed British beer-hunter, Michael Jackson, in his influential Pocket Guide to Beer. Texas micros available include Celis products (the White won a GOLD MEDAL at the last GABF!), Texas Brewing Co, and (debatably) Shiner Bock. Several new micros are now in their final planning stages. The number of Texas micros is likey to double within the next year. Check the Southwest Brewing News for the latest news on micros. "...and pub brews are not legal in Texas." This will become UNTRUE as of Sept. 1, 1993, thanks to the combined lobbying efforts of The Houston Public News, The Southwest Brewing News, my Home Brew University BBS system, and concerned homebrewers and beer lovers all over the state. Several brewpubs are quite far along in their planning. I expect to see at least 5 operating brewpubs in the Lone Star State by Jan. 1, 1994. Again, check the Southwest Brewing News for the latest brewpub news. "I buy (when my homebrew is gone) Celis bock and Westend Aussie lager but Texans need ALE!!" Look around - we already HAVE ale!! "Is there a 'grassroots' organization loggying Texas legislature to change the awful anti PUB BREW laws? Sign me up." The law has already been changed. Next time, try looking around and finding out what's going on before you start complaining. *----------------------------------------------------------------------* | Andrew Patrick | | SysOp, Houston Correspondent & Distrib. Mgr. | | Home Brew Univ. BBS Southwest Brewing News | |(713)465-0265,14.4kbps,V42bis Internet: andinator at delphi.com | *----------------------------------------------------------------------* Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1993 07:09:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu> Subject: Source needed for fritted glass disks I have been developing a set of rubber stamps for marking beer caps (neat idea huh?) and I'm up against a sourceing problem. The optimum inks for marking metal are solvent-based and require special stamp pads. The pad is a small jar about 1" i.d. with a pad of heavy felt that serves as a reservoir covered by a fritted glass disk that evenly distributes the ink onto the stamp. My problem is that these special pads are too expensive to be a good deal for people that want to use the stamps with the best inks, $5 at in quantity. I want folks to have the best for the least cost, and this is too much... So: Can anybody out there in ScienceLand give me a lead for a source of fritted glass disks? They are used by glass-blowers for coarse filters and bubblers (like in gas washing bottles). All I need is an address or phone # of a supplier (like Corning) for lab glassware parts. If I can get these cheap enough, I'd like to just toss them in with stamps. BTW, fritting is a process like sintering metal, but applied to glass. Powdered glass is heated and then pressed to loosely bond the granules. The result is a porous piece of glass, like an acquarium bubbler. There is a more exotic process by which soft soda-glass and quartz powder is sintered with more pressure and then the soft glass is etched away with hydrofloric acid yeilding a much finer porosity. The resulting part can then be slowly heated to fuse the quartz solid. The piece shirnks without distortion during the fusing and can yeild extremely high mechanical tolerances. I thought it was the neatest trick in the world.... There, know you may know something new. I need the crude fritted stuff in 1" disks. Thanks for any help Paul de Armond paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1993 11:14:07 -0500 From: donald oconnor <oconnor at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: sanitizers part I sorry about the reverse order of the 3 parts. During the ongoing debate about the relative merits of iodine vs chlorine based sanitizers there has been quite a lot of data provided, some of which was either misinterpreted or misunderstood. I'll summarize the relevant data, explain more carefully the misunderstandings, and present some additional technical information. Here's a list of the criteria by which to judge a sanitizer for homebrewers. 1. Effectiveness in killing bacteria, etc. 2. Reactivity with materials such as 304 stainless 3. Ease of use 4. Flavor, odor, and other effects of residues 5. Expense, availability 6. Personal safety The distinction between the 2 sanitizers is most blurry with regard to items 1 and 2. Making a case for one over the other is much easier when looking at the other factors. 1. Sanitizing strength Both chlorine and iodine sanitizers kill bacteria as a result of their oxidizing power. A strong oxidizer is a good sanitizer. Chlorine in all its oxidation states (dichlorine, chlorite, hypochlorite, etc) is a stronger oxidant than the corresponding iodines. In chemical terms, it is said that the redox potential of chlorine is greater than iodine. Being a stronger oxidant, chlorine sanitizers are expected to be more effective at killing bacteria. However iodine is also a sufficiently strong oxidant to work very effectively in killing stuff and thus, in a practical sense, the two cannot be distinguished in this regard. The recommended dose for iodophor, which contains molecular iodine, is 12.5 mg/l (ppm). Since each iodine atom weighs 4 times as much as chlorine and it's the number of atoms that is important, then a chlorine concentration of 3.5 mg/l will give the same sanitizing effect. Household bleach is about 5% sodium hypochlorite by weight. So how much bleach do we need in each gallon to get the same sanitizing effect as iodophor. Incredibly only 0.02 ounce! That's 50 times lower than 1 oz/gallon, 25 times lower than 1 tablespoon/gallon. For those more familiar with teaspoons, you need only add about 1/2 teaspoon of bleach in the entire 5 gallon keg to achieve the same level of sanitation that iodophor provides! Furthermore this concentration is about 70 times below the known safe level for reactivity with 304 stainless. By the way, both bleach and iodophor need only be applied for 5 or 10 minutes for sanitizing. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 93 17:47 GMT From: Phillip Seitz <0004531571 at mcimail.com> Subject: Maybe a stupid question, but... Like many people I'm paying more attention these days to getting adequate oxygen levels in my wort prior to fermenation. Some people are using aquarium pumps and stones for this job, and the current issue of BREWING TECHNIQUES includes a proposed setup with activated carbon filter to remove plastic-type flavors that might be induced from the pump and tubing. It would seem to me, though, that the primary concern would be the introduction of bacteria or wild yeasts, since these pumps are really just inducing a flow of unfiltered outside air. This leads me to two questions: 1) Among the people out there who are using the pump/stone arrangement, is there any sense that higher levels of infection are a problem? 2) Is there a good filter, say 2-micron, that can easily and cheaply be put into the tube line to filter out evil organisms? I was pondering these yesterday when I happened to wander into my local Trak Auto. Yes, folks, this is probably a stupid idea, but would an in- line gasoline filter work for this purpose? They're certainly cheap enough, and come in a zillion varieties that could easily be attached to the various hoses. Looking at a few of these I was impressed at how similar they are in structure to larger-scale brewing filters. However, none was labeled with the level of filtration provided, and there's always the possibility that some nasty chemicals might be involved. Begin a truly non-handy type person, could the more ept (as opposed to inept) out there provide any comments? Also, do those of you with all those supply catalogs see any useful alternatives? Finally, I might add an aside to those who haven't yet considered this method of aeration: it appears that a new aquarium pump, stone, and tubes can be had for under $15. In other words, not a big investment for some potentially quite beneficial results. Thanks in advance for any comments! Phil Seitz PSEITZ at MCIMAIL.COM Arlington, Virginia Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1993 14:12 EDT From: Phil Hultin <HULTINP at QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA> Subject: Headaches Certainly, the absolute amount of alcohol consumed is the #1 determinant of headaches and other unpleasant side effects. Nevertheless, I also have observed that commercial beers in EQUAL amounts produce much worse effects than homebrews. And, that the products of the large breweries are worse than those of certain microbreweries which do not add stuff to their products. As I am a chemist by profession, I will NOT refer to this stuff as "C*******s". After all, every substance in everything in the entire universe is a "C*******". BUT, I know that several of the specific items added to commercial brews can have adverse effects on certain individuals - allergic reactions etc. So, I do not see anything odd in the reports of bad headaches from commercial product. Don't consume much of THAT stuff myself, anyhow. Don't consume much at any one time, in fact. Probably better that way. P. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1993 15:56:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Stephen Brent Peters <sp2q+ at andrew.cmu.edu> Subject: COPS in PORTLAND Someone told me that she was watching COPS in PORTLAND as they busted some poor homebrewer for growing pot. Apparently this guy had an impressive set-up with lots of groovy stainless steel. As the camera panned over the equipment a friendly officer explained how lucky it was they caught this "creep" because probably hundreds of people were going blind from drinking his illegal moonshine. She said the last camera shot zoomed in on his copy of Papazian's book. Of course, they were confiscating everything. so much for rush limberger's "Liberal Media." Steve Peters = sp2q at andrew.cmu.edu *Oxnar demands a _Sacrifice!_* Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 09:02:38 EST From: "John DeCarlo" <jad at pegasus.mitre.org> Subject: Yeast and Acid Washes A couple of questions. 1) John "Crazy Experimenter" McHarry figures that since seltzer is acidic from the CO2 in solution (carbonic acid?), it would be useful for acid washing yeast (and should be reasonably sterile from the store). Any data points out there? 2) What about technical references in this area? Thanks. Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Monday, 14 June 93 09:07:09 CST From: LLAPV at UTXDP.DP.UTEXAS.EDU Subject: mangos & prickly pears I've seen a lot of discussion on strawberries lately, but has anyone out there tried more exotic fruits in beer, such as mangos or prickly pears? From reading about using prickly pears in mead, I understand you can boil it with the wort. I'm interested, because mangos are real cheap right now (3 for a dollar), & it'd be a darned shame to let something as novel as this pass me by. Hoping your closets stay cool this summer, avd Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 10:47:26 EDT From: Hal Laurent <laurent at tamdno.ENET.dec.com> Subject: Homebrew clubs in Baltimore MD I'm looking for information on homebrew clubs in the Baltimore Maryland area. If anyone can help, please send me mail at laurent at tamdno.enet.dec.com. Thanks, Hal Laurent Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 09:54 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: FILTERING Judging from my experience and that of a brewer who posted an article to rec.crafts.brewing, there seems to be a problem with the filters being sold to the homebrewing community. I won't name my source or his, other than to say they are not the same, in order to give them an opportunity to rectify the problem. I told my source and he is looking into it. I purchased a filter system with a .5 micron filter and was very disappointed with the results, viz. no visible change in the turbidity of the beer after filtering. Not willing to accept these results, I purchased a known .5 micron filter cartridge from McMaster Carr and ran some tests on it which convinced me that the .5 micron cartridge that came with the filter, most assuridly was not. I ran a gallon of water with one oz (by volume) of corn starch through both filters and the results were strikingly different. The filtrate from the McMaster cartridge was sparklingly clear and the other looked about like a beer I would want to filter. I then ran a batch of stubbornly hazy red wine through the McMaster filter and it emerged dazzlingly clear. From a physical standpoint, the McMaster cartridge is several ounces heavier than the other and takes about 5 times as long to dry out after use. Furthermore, it is darker in color and made of cotton. The McMaster catalog has a wide variety of filters and cartridges but what is notable is that the only string type, submicron filter is cotton. All the synthetic fiber cartridges are 5 microns or larger. So, if you are having problems getting what you expected from your submicron filter, I suggest you run the above cornstarch test on your filter and if it does not come out clear, complain to your supplier or order one from McMaster-Carr. The part number is 4411K91 and costs $11.82. This is a 10" cartridge. If you have the smaller one, you will have to look elsewhere. Phone number is (708) 833 0300 A note on filter use.... It seems assumed that the filter will be used from keg to keg and forced by CO2. The one I have works very well by gravity alone, simply inserted in a siphon line from the carboy on a table to the keg on the floor with the filter standing on the table. I also find that mine has a very large and persistant bubble that, unless purged with CO2, could cause aeration if not eliminated. The simplest way to eliminate it is to just run the filter backwards... by running the beer into the "out" connector and out the "in" connector, the canister fills completely and the bubble never forms. The filter will clog up faster this way but for the batch sizes we run, it it not relevant. It is also presumed that one would backflush the filter after each batch, which in this case is running clean water through it the normal way. js ZZ Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Jun 93 14:56:35 UT From: "Petrovsky Andrey " Subject: HOMEBREW Digest Distribution List Hi, Please add my name to your distribution list for HOMEBREW Digest . andrey.petrovsky at gtegsc3.sprint.com Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 11:22:59 EDT From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Stoudts Festival Here is my completely biased and subjective opinion of this weekends second annual eastern regional microbrewers festival (Stoudts Fest). For this years event there were two major changes from the way things were conducted last year. Firstly, there were three sessions instead of one and this was an excellent and neccessary move. Secondly, the food distribution was moved into the Stoudts biergarden area, away from the beer serving area. Both of these changes resulted in a more efficient and orderly event, and made the task of getting some food much easier. Each session had 1,000 tickets sold. The last session that was added later than the first two, was almost sold out (~950). Working from memory, there were approximately 25 microbreweries and brewpubs in attendance, with most serving 2-3 styles of beer. Attendees received a Festival tasting glass and a meal ticket for kraut, german wersts and some of Ed Stoudts excellent fresh bread. Each session lasted 4 hours. Attendees were allowed to sample beers at will without additional cost during this period. The breweries were not paid for thier beers, but each brewery did receive a complimentary hotel room and all brewers and helpers also were fed a prime rib dinner between the Saturday afternoon and evening sessions. I personnaly believe this festival combines the best aspects of the Oregon Brewers Fest with that of the GABF: one entry admission, no competition medals, as many beers as each brewery wants to bring, and the added Stoudts touch of a good meal included in the admission price. The other great thing about this festival is that I love the surrounding countryside. It is a great place to camp, bike and do whatever. My personal favorites from the fest: McNeil's Brewpub, Brattleboro, Vermont: This is a hombrewers paradise. The brewery is a 4 BBl operation, and the beers are genuinely hand crafted, unfiltered and produced with quality ingrediants. My favorite was the Helles Bock. A 16P beer, it is made with Moravian malt, and german noble hops, hallertau & tettnang. This beer is a hoppier version of Sierras Pale Bock. A very good hoppy american bock. Zip City, NYC: Despite some negative press in the past I believe Bob Berg is doing a good job of making some pretty tasty lagers. If you wrote off this brewery in the past, give it another try. Arrowhead Brewing Co, Chambersburg, PA. The makers of Red Feather Pale Ale, the brewhaus is a typical Peter Austin Associates design, using ringwood ale yeast, torrefied wheat flakes, the Austin hop perculator, and of course open fermenters. I am not always a fan of the ringwood family of beers, but each time I have another Red Feather, I am impressed by the clean snappiness and great hoppiness of the beer. Of all the Austin breweries, Arrowhead seems to be the one that controls the yeasts tendancy to throw diacetyl. Stoudts Brewing Co: The success of this brewery continues. Ed & Carol Stoudt run a tight ship, with the brewery and GM? run by Tom Rupp. For the festival, Stoudts had a Festival beer, a Double Honey Maibock and an Oatmeal Stout. The Maibock is amazingly drinkable for about 9% ABV. The real winners form this brewery were only found in bottles or on draft on Sunday: Export/Gold, and Bock. Tom warned me that the bock is thier best effort yet and it was a truley delicous traditional bock. Also of note is the Adamstown Amber, a amber lager with great malt/hop balance. Tom reminded me that he leans toward balanced beers, so I avoided pushing my 45 IBU pale ale on him. Tom is in the process of a considerable brewery expansion with 90? BBl Unis due soon , a new cold box and a 30 BBl brewhaus to replace the current 15 BBl. The new sudhaus will be steam fired as opposed to the current direct fired one. Hopefully, the character of the beers will remain the same. Baltimore Brewing Co: Yes I am a bit biased here, as most of my labor was devoted to pouring and explaining these beers to fest goers. But, from feedback during all three sessions, the Baltimore Weizen (mit hefe) was terrific. The characteristic Paulaner weizen/banana esters were evident, and the 5% ABV made it a nicely poundable beer. For people who will be in the Baltimore area, this weizen is still available and will be followed by a Weizen Bock. Notable missing brewery from last year: Great Lakes Brewing Co, Cleveland. I spoke with the brewer, Andy, who was in attendance despite his beers absence. It appears that success has reared its ugly head again, and the brewery was unable to sacrafice the required kegs and still supply the pub and its accounts. Thanks to everyone who helped make this a great festival, espically the Stoudts, Tom Rupp and all of the helpers who carried kegs and trash cans of water. See ya next year! Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1993 09:39:55 -0600 From: Vincent Heuring <heuring at riker.cs.colorado.edu> Subject: Recipe for Jalapeno Beer My wife wants me to brew up a batch of jalapeno beer! Yes, folks, it's true. We paid a visit to Fort Collins last week, to visit the *three* microbrewerys there, and to visit Coopersmiths, the local brewpub. Coopersmiths has, among their six always-available beers, a "Chili Beer," and my wife was wild about it. The beer *was* really good. Extremely dry, light in color, with an immediately noticable pepper flavor. No hop flavor at all that I could detect, just a very dry pepper bite. Not particularly hot, either. Anyway, I thought that bringing a half-gallon home would satisfy her appetite, but no, we've polished it off, and she still wants me to brew up a batch. So, does anyone have a partial mash or extract recipe for jalapeno pepper beer? - --- Vincent Heuring Dep't of Electrical & Computer Engineering University of Colorado at Boulder Boulder CO 80309-0425 heuring at cs.Colorado.EDU o) 303-492-8751 h) 303-449-8868 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 11:17 PDT From: Daniel A Conners <Daniel_A_Conners%~WHC110 at pnlg.pnl.gov> Subject: Large Scale Recipies, Hop Utilization, & In-keg Carbination NOTE: Please post your responses or reply to me at the following address: gj_vargo at ccmail.pnl.gov Thanks. I have been brewing in 6 finished keg batches for a few years. I seem to have fallen into a rut as my beers generally end up as either a Golgen Ale, Red Ale, or Stout. All are very drinkable, but I miss the Belgian styles and others [i.e. (Chimays), Ayingers, and Felinfoils (SP)]. Will anyone please post or E-Mail me "PROVEN" large scale batch recipies (part of my reluntance to vary significantly from the "standards" is the cost of failure - an unsatisfactory product deterrs my experimentation). Any suggestions on how I may vary my process are also very welcome. The following is a very generic description of the process: * Bring 125 gallons water to 180 degrees F (gypsum added) * Transfer to hot water storage tanks * Begin mash-in of ~220 lbs (mostly two-row) at a strike temperature of 172-174 F (water pumped to bottom of mash-tun) * Complete mashing over a 20-30 minute period, cover grain with 1-2 inches of water * Cover mash-tun, rest for 1:15 minutes (grain core temperature is ~140-145 F at finish) * Sparge (by pumping into sparge ring) with remaining water (~150-160 F); valve out to Lauter-back and pump back to kettle (last of wort has little sweetness if any); balance flows in and out * Add additional gypsum, citric acid, and table salt; heat to boil. * Boil ~35 minutes add first hop pitch (usually 12-18 oz. of high alpha hop pellets - Centennials/Cascades/Fuggels) * Continue boiling for ~40 minutes add finish hop pellets (usually 8-11 oz.) apply heat for 3-5 minutes to assure wort turnover and hop mixing (Tetenger, Willamette, Fuggels, Cascade, Centennial) * Run thru tube and shell heat exchanger to get wort to 78 F maximum (prefer 68-72 F); pump to two sterile fermenters * Grab two 1/2 quart samples for yeast rehydration; take hydrometer and temperature readings to determine O.G. * Pitch rehydrated Whitbread Ale yeast, Batch 18 (usually 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 oz. per 1/2 quart starter) warmed to ~85 F * Primary ends 3 days later, wort pumped up to elevated secondary fermenters; allow to work 10-20 days * Gravity feed to 15.5 gallon kegs (Golden Gate style) and bung * Force carbonate by slowly adding co2 to bottom shank and gradually increase pressure to ~25 psi at 60 degree F over 3 days * Chill thoroughly, reduce keg pressure to dispensing pressure Any comments, suggestions, repremands? Secondly, I'm down to my last 8 oz of Whitbread yeast any suggestions on a new variety that would compliment the above process or a suggested improvement. How do the hop utilization tables I've seen on the Digest fit the larger batches? And lastly, has any one developed a set of co2 tables out to the 60-70 F range and up to ~30 psi. Obviously, the saturation rate is slow at my household temperatures (they were off scale of the tables published in "The New Brewer" a year or so ago. Carbination suggestions are also welcome. Thanks for the patience and the extra bandwidth. Sincerely, Dan Conners Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 13:48:46 CDT From: jlf at palm.cray.com (John Freeman) Subject: canned beer Well, thanks to several who responded to me about palatable beer in cans. My fishing buddy showed up with Summit and Sam Adams this weekend. Here is a summary of what people told me. beer recommend by - ---- ------------ Yuengling Black and Tan Rob Dobson, Timothy Sweet Miller special reserve amber ale (maybe) Chip Hitchcock Foster's Lager Fred Smith Guinness Stout Pub Draught Donald G. Scheidt and Bryan Kornreich and Richard Stueven and not Chip Hitchcock Beck's Donald G. Scheidt Heineken Donald G. Scheidt, Bart Thielges Tsingtao Donald G. Scheidt Lowenbrau Donald G. Scheidt reuse a (some) cleaned plastic bottle(s) Donald G. Scheidt Holsten Bart Thielges Weinhard's Ale Bart Thielges Ballantine Dark Ale Bryan Kornreich drink cheap beer Bryan Kornreich I hope I got the credits right, I got mixed up in the middle of making the list, and already deleted the mail. My apologies if I got it wrong. This makes an excellent list to draw from. Again my thanks to you all. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 13:16 CDT From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli) Subject: Slugfest in the Sierras It came to pass that the garden slugs had become too greedy. Peaceful coexistence was not working out. Plant damage was occurring at an accelerated rate and it wouldn't have been long until irreversible damage was inflicted. Granted, all creatures great and small have a place in the Grand Design but the time had come to give the slugs their walking papers. For those who are not gardeners, beer is probably the cheapest and easiest slug countermeasure. The method is simple and effective. Submerge a small container into the ground so that the lip is level with the ground. Fill the container with beer. In effect you're making a lilliputian beer swimming pool. At night, the slugs are attracted to the beer (the malt me thinks). The slugs drink the beer, loose their sober composure and fall into the container. Having never taken swimming classes, the slugs drown. Are you listening, Kevorkian? It was my intention to use homebrew because: 1) a bottle of homebrew was a small price to pay for slug abatement and 2) I don't have any Sam Adams(tm). Planning and executing the mass murder was easy until I opened the fridge. To my surprise there was no homebrew. None. Oh sure, there was Baderbrau Pils and Bock, Celis White, Edelweiss Dunkel, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and Mackeson's Stout. But not one stinkin' bottle of homebrew. It seemed I was going to treat a bunch of freeloading gastropods to the good stuff after all. The question was which beer would be sacrificed. Choosing was going to be tough. My mind quickly went into Beer Assessment Mode. OK, no way do the slugs get the Celis or the Mackeson's. Not the Edelweiss either. The Baderbrau Pils was exceptionally fresh and so was a keeper. Remaining was the Baderbrau Bock or the SNPA. The logical choice would have been the bock as it was getting old. But I was afraid some of the more un-adventuresome slugs, not unlike some humans I know, might not like "dark beer". So the poison of the day was to be SNPA. I felt this was a sound choice because if drowning didn't kill the slugs, the bitterness surely would. chris campanelli Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 16:04:39 MDT From: pjd at craycos.com (Phil Duclos) Subject: Kegging suppllies Some of you may not be aware of a recent pricing change by a supplier of kegging equipment and supplies. About a year ago Foxx Equipment Company of Denver & Kansas City sent a letter out to homebrew clubs inviting them to pool their member's orders and offering wholesale prices to clubs on quantities of 3 or more of any item. This policy has changed. The Deep Wort homebrew club was one of the clubs which took Foxx up on this policy and placed orders for a variety small miscellaneous parts for kegging. Popular items included both large and small o-rings for the kegs, faucet parts, shanks, and keg connectors. One member agreed to act as a focal point and arrange the orders. The orders typically came to about $200. Quantity savings were passed along to the members and a lot of hard to get items got supplied. Some people ordered 1 item just because it was readily available through this service and unavailable otherwise even though there was no price break. Nobody ordered complete kegging systems or kegs. When our latest order arrived we were surprised to find that we had been charged retail prices on all items, even those of quantity 3 or more. A phone call revealed that Foxx's policy had changed. The conversation also revealed the reasons for this change. Apparently few homebrew clubs responded to Foxx's offer. Those that did got a good deal. Those that didn't continued to look elsewhere for those parts or just did without. Foxx was less than overwhelmed with the response. Also some big homebrew suppliers complained. Apparently they felt that Foxx was competing with them by offering wholesale prices to homebrew clubs. Now I get a lot of homebrew catalogs and pretty much know what's on the shelf in the local homebrew stores and I have NEVER seen the parts that we order in either place. I see complete kegging systems, kegs, regulators, etc. But faucet knobs, shanks, 1/4" barb gas disconnects, dip tube o-rings and the like, NEVER. And I think that I understand why. The homebrew suppliers have limited shelf space and capital and feel that its better to stock stuff which has a higher turnover. OK, sounds like a good business decision to me. However, to then turn around and complain to the supplier of these parts that they are in competition with them is ridiculous! Well, there are alternatives and probably the easiest is to simply knuckle under and pay the higher prices. However, no policy is ever set in stone and the better solution, I think, would be to convince Foxx that there really is a market for quantity sales to homebrew clubs and that they demand wholesale prices for quantity purchases. The way to do this is to write to the owner of the company at the following address and express your opinion: Ford Mauer - Owner Foxx Equipment Company 421 Southwest Boulevard Kansas City, Missouri 64108 If you're not interested, don't use this stuff, don't care, like higher prices or whatever, OK, don't bother. I actually think that there is a sizeable demand out there that has been thwarted by lack of knowledge and frustrated by lack of availability. If I am wrong, OK. I also am not attacking homebrew suppliers. They are great and work on slim margins and have limited capital and lots of competition, etc. They also don`t carry what I need, so I see no conflict. What I am trying to do is make people aware of a opportunity that they have lost. I think that if enough clubs respond, Foxx will change their policy. This isn't an endorsement for Foxx Equipment Co either. There are other suppliers such as Rapids, Superior, etc. Foxx has just been the one we have been dealing with, that's all. Thanks, phil duclos Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 20:15:24 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: Not me in the picture I just got my issue of Zymurgy today, and since a lot of you have already asked, no, that is not me in the picture. I don't know who it is. Besides, if it was me I'd be face down! ;-) Mark from HopTech Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 20:12:44 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: Hop Oils New Product Announcement In my article in the Summer '93 Zymurgy (Boost Hop Bouquet with Dry Hopping) I talked about CO2 extracted hop oils. As the article stated, measuring the very tiny amounts of hop oil needed takes lab equipment and lab skills, beyond those of most homebrewers (but probably not beyond quite a few Digest readers). Anyway, the article states that I was working on a solution to the problem. It was supposed to have a P.O. Box where you could write me to keep informed of any progress. Unfortunately, they edited that part out. To make a long story short, HopTech now has available CO2 extracted hop oils that have been formulated in a stable, water-based suspension that are easy to add to homebrew sized batches. It is calibrated so that 1 tsp of hop oil equals 1 ppm of hop oil in 5 gallons. Average usage, depending on the style of beer and your taste, runs between 1 and 3 ppm. We sell it in 2 oz bottles, enough to add 2 ppm to 30 gallons of beer. We have three varieties available: Premium British Blend, made with a carefully controlled blend of English and European hops that allows extremely consistent aroma characteristics from year to year. Very floral in character. British Blend, very similar to the Premium British Blend, but the aroma characteristics are slightly less consistent from year-to-year, allowing a less expensive price. Pure East Kent Goldings. Wow! The real thing. Very smooth and mellow hop aroma. Not nearly as floral as the two British Blends. This is rare, expensive and worth it. Limited supply. For a HopTech catalog or to order, call 1-800-DRY-HOPS M-F or you can email mgaretz at hoptech.com. Fax is 510-736-7950. Or you can ask your favorite homebrew supplier to carry our products. Mark from HopTech Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 10:47:16 BST From: des at pandora.swindon.ingr.com (Desmond Mottram) Subject: Re: Dogbolter Joseph Gareri writes ... > Subject: Dogbolter(R) > > I was recently given a Dogbolter(R) kit as a present. I'm not a > fan of kits, but I'm not inclined to throw something out either. > > Has anyone had any experience with either this kit or the commercial > product? The kit says it originated in 1979 when David Bruce first opened > the GOOSE AND FIRKIN in Southwark UK. It is supposed to be brewed to an > OG of 1060. I've drunk the beer and brewed the kit. The beer is good and the kit is too, as kits go. Though it's a long way short of the original. The OG seems a bit high. I thought it was about 1055. > > I am hesitant to use the yeast packet that came with the kit, but I'm not > sure what I should replace it with. Also, the instructions say to add > 2 1/2 lb. white sugar along with the extract. This seems like a lot of > cane sugar for the amount of malt. I'm guessing the can is 3.3lb. The yeast will be OK but if you want to replace it I'd suggest something like a London Ale yeast - not sure of the yeasts you have available. 1kg of white sugar is a normal ingredient of UK beer kits. It's to keep costs down and does nothing to improve the beer. Many people use two kits instead or brew half the quantity without the sugar. The can is probably 1.8kg. You could boil it up with 4 pints of water and then add about 2 gallons of cold water. Take an SG and temperature reading. Aim for an OG of about 1055-1060 and a temperature about 20C. You could add small quantities of hot or cold water and/or sugar until you get there. Pitch the yeast and follow the rest of the instructions on the kit. You should get a pretty good beer. > > Any help? They classify Dogbolter(R) as a "strong ale". > Yes, it's strong for a British bitter, somewhere around 5.5% abv. > Joe Gareri > Boston, MA > Desmond Mottram Swindon, UK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 08:56:29 EST From: "John DeCarlo" <jad at pegasus.mitre.org> Subject: Re: Refrigeration/Fermenting >How do people of ordinary means accomodate large numbers of fermenters >and kegs? Well, how do they *acquire* large numbers? <g> There is an interesting article in one of the earliest books published ("Beer and Brewing"?) with transcripts of the AHA Conference talks. It is how someone built a walk-in fermentation room. If I remember correctly, it was basically built with stiff insulation boards used in building houses, with an airconditioning unit inside. Pretty neat. Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 9:37:33 EDT From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Fullers ESB Jay, I saw your fullers question in todays HBD and since I just returned from the brewery I cant resist answering the question: <My question is, since you've evidently been to the source, which is closer to the product served at the brewery, the U.S. tap or the U.S. bottled? Neither! In the brewery they serve Fullers ESB Cask Conditioned Ale. This is near the gravity of the draft US version but is cask hopped with K. Goldings Hop Plugs (just like homebrewers use). An interesting point is that the UK bottles/cans and polypins are packaged with hop oil and therefore do not have hop parts floating. Also, the London Pride Cask is 4.0 ABV while the canned/bottled version is 4.7. This is fairly typical in that you are expected to pound 20 oz pints in the pub. <10# 2-row 1/2# crystal, 60L - 90L 1/2# carapils 1# brown sugar, 60 minutes 2 oz Fuggles, 60 minutes .5 oz Kent Golding, 30 minutes .5 oz Kent Golding, 5 minutes 1.5 oz Kent Golding, dry hopped in secondary Yweast London Ale (1028) yeast OG: 1048 FG: 1012 There is no Fuggles in ESB or any of the Fullers beers. They use English Target, Challenger and Northdown. EKG is in the finish & cask hopping of both Chiswick Bitter (very good bitter) and ESB. BTW the kettle hops are Lupofresh( challenger, 91) pellets from Kent and Worscester. They "Burtonize" the brewing water using mineral salts. A single temp infusion is employed. The ESB is 1.052 OG (apparently this was reduced for the US market, according to a brewer I was drinking with in the Pub next door). I was told they used to use sugar but this is no longer required with the new mash tuns. I missed out on the Maize part so I do not know, but I assume George has this correct. Try 5- 10 % in the mash. Skip the sugar, use caramel malts to get the color and sweetness. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1993 7:23:39 -0500 (CDT) From: BadAssAstronomer <STOREY at fender.msfc.nasa.gov> Subject: fermentation?...no not yet. Hi all I've got a question about fermentation. Specifically about Wyeast American #1056 fermentation. I pitched some of this stuff about, oh, 3pm on Sunday (~40 hours ago). So far, nada. Nothing but this sorta scummy looking growth on the beer surface. What the hell's going on here? I've used Wyeast in the past, but not the American Ale. The package swelled just fine and all that. Anyone got any ideas? scott Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 10:03:23 EDT From: ethan.mason at mail.trincoll.edu (Ethan Mason) Subject: Belgian Beers and Brewpubs-any favorites? I am going to Belgium next week and would like to know what the really good beers are so I can keep a lookout for them. I have been there before, but was so amazed with the quantity of types, that I just drank all the different types I could find. This time, however I would like to be a little more selective and sniff out the better beers and brewpubs. Any personal favorites? Thank you in advance for your time, Ethan Mason enroute to beer heaven. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 10:13:52 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Beer resources on Long Island I'm making a day trip to Cold Spring Harbor (NE corner of Nassau county) via JFK on Thursday (6/17). I'm looking for info on brewpubs, dinner places with a good beer list, and/or good beer stores somewhere between the two (CSH and JFK) or not too far out of the way. (Yes, I checked the pub list!) Please respond by e-mail. Thanks. Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1163, 06/16/93