HOMEBREW Digest #1182 Thu 15 July 1993

Digest #1181 Digest #1183

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  astringency/flat beer/filtering/warm ferment/IPAs (korz)
  body/softeners/Guinness cans/Victory malt/strange taste/partial boil (korz)
  BruHeat Insulation (gorman)
  more on sugar in beer (Bryan L. Gros)
  beers across the world? (Michael P. O'Neill)
  Wheat beer slants (Ed Kesicki)
  The Tumbleweed Report (part 1) (Kinney Baughman)
  DeWolfe-Cosyns distributor? (Dave Gilbert)
  Bartles & James MALT BEVERAGE?? (tony g)
  Irish Moss/overshoot/storing yeast under sucrose/7oz bottles (korz)
  weevils (Chuck Cox)
  ALES (pquint)
  Re : Irish Moss (Conn Copas)
  Barreling Beer (Philip J Difalco)
  U-Brew-It-Here (Pierre Gauvin)
  Re: Parking in Portland (wegeng.henr801c)
  Darkening Extract;  Brewer's Warehouse;  Nitrogen Regs (Glenn Raudins)
  Plastic Fermenters ("/platinum/homes/hethmon/.signature")
  dextrose, hot break (KLIGERMAN)
  RE: Drinking around Lancaster PA (Robert Chizmadia)
  Neuweiler's Stock Ale (Matthew Mitchell)
  Hunter Airstat summary available from me. (David Hinz)
  Hot Break Terminology (Jeff Frane)
  step mashing temperature formula? (CHUCKM)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 12:35 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: astringency/flat beer/filtering/warm ferment/IPAs Keith writes (quoting Kinney, who quoted someone else (sorry)): >>>This might be the source of the confusion. He also recommends scooping out >>>the specialty grains just prior to the wort coming to a boil. > >>Hmm... The conventional wisdom here is to remove the grains at 170 >>degrees to avoid leaching tannins into the wort. Waiting until just >>before the boil is too long. > >This sounds like a momily to me. I haven't noticed an astrigency problem with >beers I've made to date using this method and I know of several other brewers >who use this method with success. I thought so too on my first few batches, but then a more experienced brewer pointed out the astringency in my beer. Upon questioning, it was traced to my removing the grains when the water came to a boil. Heck, for my first batch, I boiled them for 60 minutes. I recall I still loved the beer, but today, now that my palate is more sensitive I'll bet I wouldn't enjoy it. ********************************************** Rich writes: >Let me start by saying I'm a neophyte in the homebrew >field. I just bottled my first batch three weeks ago. >The beer tastes fine other than being somewhat flat. > >Papazian's troubleshooting section came to two conclusions: >1) I left an excessive amount of sterilant in the bottles or >2) I'm storing the beer at excessively cool temperatures. You may also have: 1. not stirred the priming sugar well and some of your bottles may be overcarbonated (did you first dissolve the sugar in a few cups of water and boil it to sanitize and dissolve the sugar?), or 2. you may not have used enough priming sugar (1/2 to 3/4 cup corn sugar for a 5 gallon batch -- or use 3/4 to 1.25 cups of DME), 3. or, you may have brewed such a high-alcohol beer that the yeast is pooped-out (I once brewed an Imperial Stout with an OG of 1120 -- it never really carbonated at all -- in retrospect, I should have pitched a more attenuative yeast once the Wyeast #1028 pooped out at 1050). >I also read somewhere else in Papazian's book that you should >leave about an inch of air space in each bottle. I noticed that >I have more like two inches of air space in each bottle. Could >this have some effect on the carbonation. It would seem that >as I increase the air space in each bottle the carbonation >should increase as well. Yes, too much headspace will give you more carbonation not less. **************************************** goeff writes: >I have a question about filtering beer. Out of curiosity, I just >made some quasi-czech pilsner at a U-Brew-It-Here place, and they >of course filter their beer to get that commercial look. >Why should I filter, or not filter my homebrew? What would it do >for my beer? (by the way, I have chosen not to patronize those >brew-places again, they charge exhorbitant rates). The look will change, but the flavor will change also. A pair of brewers who have won gobs of awards for their beers (including the Ninkasi Award in 1992), Steve and Christina Daniel, are strong proponents for filtering. When you filter, you must be aware that you can filter too much -- try Miller Brewing Company's Amber Ale -- not bad in flavor, but all the body has been filtered out of it! >Finally, I would like some information on warm temp brewing. If >brewing ales, what are the consquences of fermenting between 18-24 >degrees C ? My apartment is not air-con. nor do I have a basement (!). >Is bacterial contam. my main worry, or will I develop some >interesting, but perhaps 'out of style' flavours? Bacterial contamination as well as wild yeast and mold (however mold should not be a problem (unless you've got tons of it in your air) if you watch aeration (molds are aerobes)) can be problems so watch your sanitation. Higher temperatures will increase the yeast's production of all kinds of by-products from esters (fruity flavors and aromas) to phenols to higher alcohols. If you use a good, clean yeast, you should not have problems with phenols and higher alcohols too much. Some yeasts produce more than others. I feel that Wyeast #1056 and #1028 are quite clean. I believe that diacetyl production is increased at higher temperatures also, so you may want to avoid high-diacetyl producers like Wyeast #1084 when you brew at higher temperatures. ************************* John writes: >In a recent discussion on India Pale Ales (IPA's) the assertion was made >that these are all high gravity ales. Conventional wisdom tells us >that these ales were brewed at high gravity to allow them to travel well >(ie. by ship to India), and our US beer competitions persist in defining >IPA's as medium to high gravity (OG 1050 to 1065). It is interesting to >observe, however, that in their land of origin IPA's are not in fact high >gravity ales. Some of the truly outstanding examples of this type which I >tasted on a recent beer tour of The British Isles include "Palmer's IPA" >(Dorset, OG 1039, ABV 4.3%), "Robinwood IPA" (Yorkshire, OG 1040, ABV 4.2%), >"Younger IPA" (Edinburgh, OG 1043, ABV 4.5%)... I believe that the use of the title India Pale Ale has been misused in Britain as well as in the US. I feel that the AHA's definition is closer to the mark on this particular style than are the commercial examples, but this is just my opinion. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 12:38 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: body/softeners/Guinness cans/Victory malt/strange taste/partial boil Ed writes: > I recently got into homebrewing (plan on doing my fifth batch > this evening). I have two questions. The first has to do with body. > I like my beer "chewy" (or so my wife claims). None of my beers > have been as full-bodied as I would like. How do I increase the body > of the beer without necessarily increasing the alcohol content? Can > I use dextrine malt without mashing it? What about Lactose? I've used dextrine malt without mashing it and yes, it will increase body. Lactose will not do much for body (I feel) but will increase residual sweetness which can be interpreted as increased body. Malto-dextrin powder is available and can increase body and mouthfeel, but I haven't tried using it yet. Some extracts will give you a higher final gravity which will give you that "chewyness" that you seek. The best extract for this is Laaglander Dried Malt extract. Northwestern Malt extract also tends to finish a bit higher, but not nearly as much as Laaglander. > The second question may be due to a related problem. None of my > Original Specific Gravities have been as high as I'd expected (given > similar recipes I've seen).... > ....Could it be due to the type of extract I'm using? > Could it be my water? (I have a Culligan water softener.) Could it > be due to my estimation method? (I add a little to the SG reading > for each degree over 60F according to the error estimates Charlie P. > gives in his book. I think it is somewhere around 0.003 for each > degree. I can't remember because I've got the formula in a > database cell somewhere.) It could be that you are not stirring well enough when you top your wort up with water (see a recent HBD). Another point I'd like to make is that you should not use softened water for your brewing. Water softeners work by adding salts to the water. If you have bicarbonate hardness, you can reduce it by boiling and then pouring off the sediment that forms. A little more trouble, yes, but I think your beer will taste better. Note that a high carbonate water is perfect for brewing stouts like Guinness! Leo writes: >I am sure that this has already been answered but I have been unable to find >an explanation in previous postings. Search further back -- about two years ago there was much discussion on this topic. >1. Does the NO2 cartridge in the canned Guinness affect more than just the >head of the brew? It seems to me that the canned Guinness is alot smoother >and less bitter than the traditional bottled stuff. It's not NO2 and I don't believe there's any nitrogen at all in the cans. The recipe is different for draft Guinness compared to the bottled version. Jackson gives the bottled version four stars, but I believe only three for the draft. The cans are the draft recipe. To make a long story short, the cans work because the plastic bubble squirts beer into the can through a small opening and makes the beer foam. Please see late 1991 to early 1992 HBDs for more details. ************************ Jonathan writes: >And someone else asked this eons ago, but I don't remember seeing an answer >posted to the digest. What is "Victory malt"?? Does it have to be mashed, >or can it be steeped like specialty malts? What characteristics does it >impart to the beer? It is somewhere in color and flavor between Munich and Vienna Malts (at least that's where Briess Malting puts it on their price sheets) and yes, it must be mashed. ********************* Glenn writes: > I'm kind of new to homebrewing, and need to have a question answered by >people "in the know." The first few batches I have brewed had something of >a funny taste to them. COuld this be the result of using an aluminum pot >for boiling the wort? Some say it can, others say it doesn't, but you need to describe the funny taste more for us to help you -- is it metallic? can you relate it to some kind of food? do you have hard water? do you use well water? what kind of yeast did you use? is it sour? Post more details and I'm sure someone will be able to help you find the source of this flavor. ************************** JC writes (quoting me): >>Although I picked JC's post (sorry JC), there are a number of posters who >>seem to be confused by this "high-gravity" brew thread. There's a big >>difference between partial boil (which could also be called high-gravity >>boil) and high-gravity ferment. I believe that the original post that >>started this thread asked about what kind of compensation had to be made >>for a high-gravity ferment. Well, a number of brewers have posted that >>a higher gravity ferment will result in a beer with more esters. I have >>found this to be true, but have not tried diluting the resulting beer >>into a medium-gravity beer. I think what JC is asking about (as well as >>a couple of others) is a partial-boil recipe. One in which, say, 3-gallons >>of wort are boiled and then this is diluted into a 5-gallon batch in the >>fermenter. > >You are correct here. A partial-boil is what I want to do, or, perhaps >it is better worded at a partial-high-gravity-boil, which is diluted in >the primary fermenter. > >I'm still looking for all-grain recipes that'll allow me to do this. I've >done some partial mashes, hence I'm familiar w/ the process to some degree. >Does one just cut the amount of H20 used during the mash process in half to >get a high-gravity wort? I could probably handle mashing with a full >grain bill and H20 (1 qt/lb), but my pot would be insufficient to handle the >grain sparge through my lauter-tun... Hmmm... I seem to have gotten it all wrong. It's not a partial boil that you want. What you really want to do is to sparge into your kettle till it's about 3/4 full, then boil that down to where you can add more runoff. Once you're done sparging boil this down to about 6 gallons and then add the boiling hops. If your pot is too small to handle 6 gallons comfortably, you can do the boil in two parts, splitting your hops in half. Many breweries do this when their fermenters are twice the size of their boilers. You don't get a high-gravity wort simply by reducing your mash water in half... you get one by either just taking the first runnings and making a 1 gallon or 2 gallon batch (then using the second and third runnings for a smaller beer) or by taking all the runnings from, say 12 or 15 lbs of malt and then boiling this all down to 4 or 5 gallons. A partial boil is an extract procedure where you boil your extracts with only part of your total water (compensating for the low hop utilization) and then adding water after the boil in the fermenter. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 13:41:40 EDT From: gorman at aol.com Subject: BruHeat Insulation BruHeat Users/Potential Users: My first attempt to heat 5 gal. of water in a BruHeat took >1 hr to reach a boil I purchased a sheet of 1.5" very dense foam, cut holes for the gauges and spigot and duct-taped it around the BruHeat. Next batch took ~30 min to boil. Also, I'm extract brewing only, but I bet mashing temperatures could be much more easily maintained and more quickly increased with the insulation. Bill Gorman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 10:50:19 PDT From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros) Subject: more on sugar in beer I'm trying to find out the constituents or chemistry of different sugars added to British or Belgian beers. What I think I need to determine first, however, is what is the purpose of adding the sugar? What are we trying to accomplish? What is taken as truth about sugar (I think): * Glucose is 100% fermentable and thus adds alcohol and no flavor * Table sugar is sucrose and is mostly fermentable but can add a cidery taste if the amount is too much * Brown sugar is sucrose with a little molasses still in it * Turbinado sugar is similar to brown sugar; it is table sugar that has not been completly refined. What is invert sugar? I thought it was an optical isomer of sucrose, but sucrose is a disaccharide of glucose and fructose. Back to the original point. If the idea behind adding sugar is to lessen the body of high gravity beers (doubbel, trippel), then it would seem that glucose is the best bet. Rajotte's book implies that invert sugar is more fermentable (than sucrose), but it shouldn't be more fermentable than glucose. If the idea is to add some additional flavor, then brown, turbinado, or candi sugar would be a better bet. Glucose leaves no flavor and sucrose leaves an undesirable (usually) flavor. Where do candi sugar and turbinado come in? That is, what do they add that the other sugars don't? So what did I get wrong? Sugar is usually a taboo subject with homebrewers, so I'm not suprised that there is no primer or anything. Fire away... - Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 12:40:47 PDT From: mike at notorious.lbl.gov (Michael P. O'Neill) Subject: beers across the world? it's been a year since following this newsletter, so if this question has been answered recently, SORRY! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 12:57:10 -0700 From: ek at chem.UCSD.EDU (Ed Kesicki) Subject: Wheat beer slants I seem to have gotten the number wrong for the Co. that sells pure cultures of wheat beer yeast. I called the following, which was incorrect: 1-800-BREWTEK Got some communications company. So..What is the real number? Ed Kesicki Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 16:28:18 -0400 (EDT) From: Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR at conrad.appstate.edu> Subject: The Tumbleweed Report (part 1) What happened to all that free time I was supposed to have this summer? I promised to summarize some of my experiences at the Tumbleweed Grille for the forum. I received dozens of requests to do so, so here goes... Sorry it's taken so long. I apologize in advance for the somewhat rambling nature of what follows but there's a lot I'd like to say and if you wait for me to organize it into MA thesis form, it'll never get posted!! Before getting down to all the numbers, allow me to set the stage for you. You'll never understand why we did what we did if you don't have a grasp on the problems as they were presented to us. I'd hope that anyone who decided to take the jump into commercial brewing would have more money than we did. At the same time, what follows is proof positive that you can put together a commercially viable brewpub on a shoestring budget. From the beginning, the prime motivating factor behind what we've done at Tumbleweed has been the fact the operation was designed and built without borrowing a single red cent!! If the operation folds tomorrow, we haven't lost any money. We've capitalized all equipment as the need arose. To me, this makes what we're doing at Tumblewee unique and is why I'm boring you with the details. We have almost 30 years combined brewing experience among the three brewers. And yet 7 months ago none of us could have imagined that we'd be doing things the way we are now! But what we're doing is working, so what can you say? A bit of background on Tumbleweed. The business started in 1989 as a Southwestern foods restaurant and is firmly established as such. Tumbleweed is a restaurant first. It is not a bar and doesn't pretend to be one. This is important to keep in mind when one considers our weekly sales. I think beer sales are significant despite this fact. I sometimes shudder to think what could be happening if we were a bar. The restaurant is located in Boone, NC, a small mountain town in the northwestern corner of NC. Population of the town proper is about 13,000. Appalachian State University has an enrollment of 11,000. I think there is about 30,000 people living in the county. Boone is a summer and winter vacation destination point. Believe it or not, Boone is the ski capital of the South. There are 4 major slopes (at least for us) within 30 minutes of town. In the summer, people come up here to escape the heat off the mountain. Last I heard, some 2,000,000 tourists come through town each year. Much of our business comes from this tourist crowd. We get hardly any business from the students. We're beginning to get a decent following among the faculty and staff. Bart Conway, the proprietor at Tumbleweed, began reading about the brewpub movement in restauranteur publications and thought it was a great idea. Bart is as enthusiastic a person as one could ever hope to meet. He's a man who definitely appreciates good beer. But as he contemplated starting his own brewpub I think it's fair to say he didn't know the difference between malt and hops. So here's a man who likes the brewpub idea, owns a restaurant, and wants to try it, fully admitting he doesn't know that much about making beer. I have a lot of respect for a man with his intestinal fortitude. Not knowing the ins and outs, he did not want to invest 100's of thousands of dollars into a business about which he knew very little. One day he was drinking coffee with a homebrewer here in Boone who said, "Sure. I can brew beer. Let's do it." And so it began. In February of 1992, Tumbleweed served its first beer. They bought a used gas stove, a 10 gallon enameled pot, and turned out the first few batches of Tumbleweed beer *5 gallons* at a time, bottled them and walked them down the hill to the restaurant. (Tumbleweed is officially a microbrewery because the brewhouse is not attached to the restaurant itself. We walk the beer - now in 5 gallon cornelius kegs - down to the restaurant when they run out.) Shortly they moved to 10 gallon batches. An assistant brewer, Cam Hedrick, came on board in the May of 1992, is still there, and is the only member of the team who is indispensible. He works forty hours a week, monitors the day to day operation: kegging, transfers, keeping the restaurant in stock, keeping records straight so the BATF stays off our backs, etc. In July, Cam pushed production up to 30 gallons where things stood when Burton Moomaw and I were invited to join the operation in November. When Cam arrived, they were using an immersion wort chiller. When the 30 gallon kettle was put online, I helped them design a counterflow wort chiller (1/2" copper tubing inside 5/8" garden hose) which they began using in August. Being the good mountain man that he is, Bart is an inveterate "horse trader". And with his own beer online, beer was a hot topic of conversation at the restaurant. During the course of one of these "rap" sessions, he scrounged a 30 gallon stainless steel pot that had been used in a restaurant at one of the country clubs close by. Now he needed a gas burner. Somehow this came up in conversation with the guy who sells the restaurant after dinner mints. He knew where there was a 350,000 btu burner that wasn't being used and gave it to Bart. The moral of the story here is that for a couple of free meals, the brewery had a stainless steel pot and a gas ring. In November Brett Deal, the head brewer moved from Boone, Bart called to ask me if I was interested in working in a kind of head/brewer consultant capacity. Already working two jobs, I actually turned him down, promised to find someone for him, called my brewing buddy, Burton Moomaw, and we decided to form a very loose "partnership" and split the responsibilities with each other. When I'm busy, he brews. When he's busy, I brew. And Cam, our brewery operations manager, always brews. So here we were. A couple of homebrewers who had never brewed more than 15 gallons at a time. Full of ideas and enthusiasm and no commerical brewing experience. There were a number of changes to be made. In fact, it's fair to say that no part of the existing brewing operation resembles what was going on in November. We've changed everything. (To be continued) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 13:59:05 -0800 (PDT) From: Dave Gilbert <solomon!solomon.aha.com!dave at yoda.eecs.wsu.edu> Subject: DeWolfe-Cosyns distributor? Well, the owner of my local homebrew store (if you can call a 160 mi. round trip local) has agreed that he will carry DeWolfe-Cosyns malt, providing I can find him a name, address and phone number for a distributor. So, how about it?? Any help will be greatly appreciated!! Thanx Dave Gilbert dave at aha.com Advanced Hardware Architectures Inc. Moscow, Idaho Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 17:25:45 EDT From: tony g <giannone at BBN.COM> Subject: Bartles & James MALT BEVERAGE?? Hi, My wife was reading the label of a Bartles & James 'Premium Berry Cooler' and she noticed that it said "Malt beverage with natural flavors". Anyone know how to brew this stuff? I'd sure like to be able to brew something similar, so my wife can enjoy the fruits :-) of my labor also. regards, tony (giannone at bbn.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 17:34 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Irish Moss/overshoot/storing yeast under sucrose/7oz bottles Jeff writes: >I'm interested in hearing about people's experience using Irish Moss as >a kettle fining agent. I had been using it off and on for years, >without being able to notice any difference when I remembered to add it. >Eventually, I stop bothering all together, and since I was using 1056 >yeast almost exclusively, I hadn't any problems with clarity. I used to use it, but after a discussion with George Fix (which I posted in HBD a while ago) in which he convinced me that the majority of mouthfeel and head retention is from proteins and not from dextrins, I reassessed my use of Irish Moss. Irish Moss works by electrostatically attracting protein molecules to itself as it sinks to the bottom of the kettle. I was dissatisfied with my head retention at the time, so I theorized that I might be taking too much of the proteins out of the wort. I cut back from a teaspoon to 1/2 teaspoon and then eventually stopped using it altogether. Except for my very first few batches, I have always been very careful to not boil my grains. (Chill haze needs big proteins and tannins to form. Head retention and mouthfeel are the result of smaller proteins which can be formed from the big proteins during the protein rest, but that's a whole other issue). In any event, I felt that I was getting acceptable clarity and thus did not miss the use of the Irish Moss. On the other hand, some of the National 1st-round judges (justifiably) had a higher standard for clarity and I got some "slight haze" comments. Now, I'm thinking about perhaps trying Irish Moss again or one of the other finings, perhaps Polyclar, which (I believe) also works electro- statically, but is used in the fermenter and instead of proteins it attracts tannins (please correct me if I've got this wrong, or confirm). By the way, the yeasts I use are mostly Wyeast #1056 and Wyeast #1028. ************************ Mark writes: >Also, what are the dangers of a slight overshoot with a single-step >infusion mash? Will a couple of degrees above 156F hurt anything? The way that higher temperature mashes work to make a more dextrinous wort is that the beta-amylase enzyme is more quickly denatured at the 156-157-158F temperature range than is alpha-amylase. At the lower temps (148-149-150-151-152), they both work together to break the starch molecules down to mostly fermentables, whereas at the higher temps, it's mostly alpha-amylase at work. If you overshoot to 158 or 160F for a minute or two, you may denature a bit of your alpha-amylase faster than at 156F, but you probably couldn't even measure the difference. ***************************** Steve writes (in response to a question about storing yeast under sucrose solution): >The well documented producure will allow yeast to be stored >for as long as two years. The principle behind it is at 4 >degrees C invertase becomes inactive. This means there is >no way for the yeast to metabloize the sucrose. If you are >getting fermentation there are a few things you might not >have made sure of: 1) you can have no other surgers but sucrose, >common errors might include; taking the yeast from the >primary before it is completely fermented, using a low >purity sucrose (it might have glucose in it for example), >and 2) the solution must stay under 4 C at all times. What I don't understand, is why the sucrose solution then? I know that long term storage of yeast requires either sub-zero temperatures or feeding them (so they don't start eating their neighbors), but if they aren't going to eat the sucrose, then why have it there at all? ***************************** Rex writes: >My question is: Where can I get 6-8oz bottles from? I see many home-brew >suppliers carry 12 and 22oz sizes, but no mention of anything smaller. Does >anyone know of a source of such bottles? I guess I'd be looking for 2-4 cases. I have a possible source for this size of bottle (7oz, I believe -- they are made of thick glass and have punts too!), but I would have to order a great number of them. How much interest is there in bottles such as these? Please email me directly and if there is sufficient interest, I'll pursue this source. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 18:24:58 EDT From: chuck at synchro.com (Chuck Cox) Subject: weevils My hop plants have been slowly consumed by something that bites big chunks out of the stem and leaves. I thought for a while that it was the same squirrel that was terrorizing my snapdragons. However today I found a bug munching away on a leaf. A quick perusal of Hops (R.A. Neve) found a picture of the critter. It is a Clay-coloured weevil (Otiorrhynchus singularis). The damage description matches too. Unfortunately, Neve doesn't give much advice about eliminating it. He states that it is not generally a pest of great importance. He suggests organo-phosphorus or carbamate insecticides, then refers to a report about the possiblity of using parasitic nematodes. I would prefer using natural predators instead of insecticides, but Neve seems uncertain of their usefulness. Does anyone have any experience eliminating weevils? I now only have one living plant left, and am concerned that predators may not be effective on a single plant. Perhaps I should simply kill the weevils by hand. - -- Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> SynchroSystems / Riverside Garage & Brewery - Cambridge, Mass. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 15:49:20 -0700 From: pquint at mail.barrnet.net Subject: ALES MC EWAN'S ALE is my favorite and only try. Consistency is a concern, overboil was a problem...any ideas out there? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 12:14:32 BST From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re : Irish Moss My experience has been that Irish Moss improves the _cold_ break, ie, upon cooling the wort, one obtains a very sharply defined layer of trub, similar to that which could otherwise be obtained by refrigerating the wort for a couple of days. I suspect we get told to add the Moss near the end of the boil for reasons of economy, in other words, to let the combination of heat, hops and agitation do its stuff first. Jeff, what do the scientists say about the effects of Irish Moss on body/head retention? It would be great if it was selective enough to take out the larger proteins which we don't want and leave the rest, but I presume this is where some of the reservations arise. In fact, this issue of protein selectivity applies to a whole range of brewing practices, starting with the use of a protein rest during mashing, and moving on to issues such as whether to skim the initial boil or not, whether to use kettle finings or not, even whether to employ forced wort chilling (at least in stouts), whether to skim/blow-off the primary, and lastly whether to employ finings after fermentation. I presume a whole lot of trade-offs are involved here, probably involving glucans and lipids as well as proteins, and I for one would like to see more definitive statements than can be found in the homebrewing textbooks. - -- Conn V Copas Loughborough University of Technology tel : +44 509 263171 ext 4164 Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre fax : +44 509 610815 Leicestershire LE11 3TU e-mail - (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut G Britain (Internet):C.V.Copas at lut.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 08:04:40 -0400 From: Philip J Difalco <sxupjd at anubis.fnma.COM> Subject: Barreling Beer I'd like to barrel my beer. The only place I have seen barrels for sale was in a catalog ("The Cellar Homebrew, Supplies & Equipment, 1993 catalog, 1-800-342-1871). Their oak barrels ranged in price: $60/1gal., $93/5gal., $115/10gal. Seems semi-expensive. If anyone has a cheaper source for oak barrels, I'd like to know. Thanks in advance. - --- email: sxupjd at fnma.com (NeXT Mail Okay) Philip DiFalco, Senior SomethingOrOther, Advanced Technology FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington, DC 22016 (202)752-2812 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 08:27:23 -0400 From: pgauvin at hq.crad.dnd.ca (Pierre Gauvin) Subject: U-Brew-It-Here Here in Ontario, this has been a real growth industry for the last year. However, the BIG BEER MAKERS complained about the unfair competition and in the last provincial budget, the government slapped a tax of $0.26/litre starting 1 Aug 93. The tax is scheduled to go up in the next couple of years. This will spell the end of a lot of the U-Brew places. The way they worked is that you go there, pick a recipe and are assigned a kettle. You mix the ingredients and cook the beer, then the staff puts it in a keg to age after filtering and cooling through a heat exchanger. Two weeks later, you come back to bottle. I understand that during the interval, the beer is filtered once again and transfered into another keg. There are some severe restrictions on the places. They do not sell beer. They sell ingredients and bottles, and rent the equipment to users. You are not allowed to sample your beer while bottling so that the place does not turn into a drinking establishment. The only way to sample a beer recipe before brewing is to exchange a bottle with the person bottling next to you or with friends who brew there. Costs for a batch of 48 litres (roughly 12 gallons) vary between $60 and $110 CDN depending on the recipes. This includes the regular sales taxes and a $25 service charge (equipment rental, storage, etc...). The new tax will add more than $12 per batch. The old price was half the price of a commercial beerfor a clone of same beers to about the same price for a more exotic beer (Chimay clone). Now the price will go up to almost 75% of the cost of commercial stuff. Advantages of U-Brews: -No mess to clean up. No room required to store ber or ingredients. - No smelling up the house - Socializing - Its almost impossible to make bad beer there. Disadvantages: - Cost: Almost twice as expensive as making beer at home, especially if you shop around for ingredients - Limited choices of beer recipes, with no cusatomization. -Car required to bring back the bottles -Cannot experiment with more exotic ingredients such as ginger, fruits, etc... -Cannot lager the beer Pierre Gauvin pgauvin at hq.crad.dnd.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 05:34:40 PDT From: wegeng.henr801c at xerox.com Subject: Re: Parking in Portland >Does anyone have a suggestion on where to park [in Portland]? You might check into private long term parking lots at the airport, which might be cheaper (though the bus fare to/from the airport might make up for the cost savings). Your travel agent ought to be able to help you with this. Btw, it`s also worth mentioning that the conference hotel does not provide a free shuttle bus to/from the airport. There`s a private bus that serves several of the downtown hotels, however. Yet another cost to add to your budget for the week. /Don wegeng.henr801c at xerox.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 8:12:37 CDT From: raudins at galt.b17d.ingr.com (Glenn Raudins) Subject: Darkening Extract; Brewer's Warehouse; Nitrogen Regs In HBD #1181, Derrick Pohl writes: > He said that boiling does > indeed darken malt - he thinks it's actually an oxidation process and that > splashing the wort around a lot when hot darkens it even more. His Since George isn't with us this summer (may the book go well), one of the reactions at working is the "Browning Reaction(s)". (Most of this info comes from George's book via my hazy morning memory.) Browning reactions START when the extract is being made. They continue while in the can, which means it would be nice if they marked the cans with date of production. The Browning reactions result in Melanoidins. These reactions will also occuring during your boil. The oxidation of melanoidins is where they begin to play a bigger part in the overall beer. (Not mentioned above, melanoidins are the dark pigment.) If you have George's book, Principles of Brewing Science, the section is only a couple pages long but well worth reading. re: Brewer's Warehouse Has anyone out there bought their propane burner? It appears to be in a ceramic base of some nature, which probably would solve the need to build a heat shield. re: Nitrogen thread Looking at Superior's catalog last night, I noticed Nitrogen regulators. Just for the knowledge, what is the difference between these and CO2 regs? Range on the dials? Glenn Raudins raudins at galt.b17d.ingr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 09:27:22 -0400 From: "/platinum/homes/hethmon/.signature" <hethmon at cs.utk.edu> Subject: Plastic Fermenters I've got a question about plastic fermentation vessels. The kit I started with came with a 6.5 gallon plastic pail with a screw down lid for the primary fermenter. Though the batches I've brewed so far have come out good (with the exception of using old Whitbread yeast for one -- yuck!), I noticed a definite lack of bubbles coming up through the fermentation lock. I asked at my homebrew store and he said it was hard to make a good seal between the lid and pail. I guess my question in all of this rambling is whether this seems reasonable and whether I should worry or have a homebrew? I've thought of going to a glass carboy for a primary fermenter, but I don't have a 6 or 7 gallon one at the moment. I've thought of using my 5 gallon size with a blow off tube, but the thought of my dogs or two year old son drinking from the blow off bucket has kept me from it so far. Any comments or suggestions? thanks, : Paul Hethmon | anonymous ftp for : hethmon at cs.utk.edu | Woodworking: cs.rochester.edu : University of Tennessee | Brewing info: sierra.stanford.edu : Knoxville, Tennessee | OS/2 info: ftp-os2.cdrom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 10:03:30 -0400 (EDT) From: KLIGERMAN at herlvx.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: dextrose, hot break F.J. Dobner writes"..my understanding of dextrose is that it is not largely fermentable (by commonly used yeast)."... He must be confusing dextrose with some other sugar. Glucose, dextrose, corn sugar, and grape sugar are synonymous (The Merck Index 10th Edition) These are all fermentable by common yeast. There also seems to be some confusion about what is the hot break and when does it occur. I hope someone knowledgeable will clear this up. Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 09:50:16 EDT From: chiz at atmel.com (Robert Chizmadia) Subject: RE: Drinking around Lancaster PA Very close to Lancaster is Adamstown. There you will find Stoudt's brewpub. I recommend the honey nut oatmeal stout. Depending on how far you want to travel, there are two brewpubs in Philadelphia and three in Baltimore. Philly is about half an hour, and has the Dock Street brewpub and the Sam Adams brewpub. In Baltimore, there is the Baltimore Brewing Company ( which makes a very unique wiezen-bock ), Sisson's brewpub, and the Wharf Rat. Make sure you get the Wharf Rat by Camden Yards for microbrew, although with 28 taps the one is Fell's Point is a fine drinking establishment. Baltimore is about an hour and a half away. Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Jul 93 11:26:36 EDT From: Matthew Mitchell <IEKP898%tjuvm.bitnet at TJUVM.TJU.EDU> Subject: Neuweiler's Stock Ale From: Matthew Mitchell Another excellent contract brew from Lion in Wilkes-Barre is the Neuweiler's Stock Ale, brewed for Neuweiler's of Allentown. I think they have their own brewery, right? They've been around a while and I never looked twice but at the distributor, I saw markings on the case that looked like Lion's and had to try.Only $15.00|| 8^) = Anyway, the beer is quite amber, and has a fruity hoppy aroma much like a good IPA, Taste is excellent, with accent on hop character. All-malt according to the label. So is stock ale a defined style? The last one I had was the Molson Stock Ale (which had an anchor in the hexagon molson label ref to sea voyage like in IPA???!) The label says that the story is that the beer was reserved for stockholders in the company Any truth to that?? Is that the same story as UK's Courage "Directors' Bitter??" Howzat!?! Matthew Mitchell <iekp898 at tjuvm.tju.edu> <iekp898 at tjuvm.bitnet> Former Brewmaster, Penthouse Brewing Co., Haverford PA makers of Barclay Beer, Penthouse Brown Ale, and Big B Malt Liquor Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 10:54:42 CDT From: hinz at memphis.med.ge.com (David Hinz) Subject: Hunter Airstat summary available from me. Greetings! About a week ago, I expressed my frustration at not knowing how to get a Hunter Airstat. The responses were numerous, and I saved most of them. (My mail program is flukey sometimes). If anyone would like a (fwd) of the summary, I'd be happy to e-mail it to you, and if there's enough interest I could forward it to the Sierra listserv. Dave Hinz ObHomebrewComment: Don't you just HATE finishing the last bottle of a batch? It's sort of sad to know that the whole thing is history... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 09:11:00 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Hot Break Terminology Judging from the responses I received in regard to my posting on Irish Moss, there is some real confusion about the definition of "hot break". A number of people seemed to think I was advocating adding the IM at the beginning of the boil, which is not at all the case. So let's be clear: the hot break is at THE END of the boil, not the beginning. I can understand the confusion; not only have recent postings by theoretically reliable people made the wrong assertion, but the standard homebrewing texts are remarkably vague on the whole subject. Although I found good information in professional brewing texts, the most lucid explanation is from good old Dave Line, in his Big Book of Brewing, from which I quote with abandon: The "hot break" If you take a sample of the wort in a hydrometer jar and hold it up to the light it should look reasonably clear; clear, but not crystal clear and bright like one would expect in the finished beer. The change in clarity is brought about by the boiling process. A closer inspection of a light coloured wort would show that the dullness is caused by a greyish mist of finely dispersed matter. The mist is due to the presence of haze forming degraded protein matter combined with hop tannins and its derivatives. The behaviour of these nitrogenous substances in the copper is rather remarkable. Long vigorous boils will coagulate these gummy substances and make them insoluble. Regularly observing the clarity of samples taken throughout the boil will demonstrate this fact. A few minutes after boiling commences, the mist forms a haze of small, but visible particles. The particles grow as the boiling ation, coupled with the buffering of hop cones, increases the rate at which these gummy substances combine to form even larger particles. The "hot break" is said to be secured when all the protein matter has formed into flocculating compact lumps. Always check for this condition (but not before at least one hour's boil) by removing a wineglassful of the wort. The thermal cycle of cooling, should, if the break is successful, deposit the match head sized particles at the bottom of the glass to leave the wort above clear of suspended matter. If there are still minute particles in suspension which have not combined with the main masses, then the wort is "undercooked" and boiling must be continued. For those of a more scientific bent, there are similar discussions in DeClerq, who also recommends visual examination of the wort and says: "The appearance of the break serves as a guide to the brewer for the duration of the boil, because it frequently happens that after a good break has been obtained any further boiling gives a turbid wort." Recommendations on the use of Irish Moss range from 15 minutes (Dr. Fix) to 1/2 hour before the end of the boil. - --Jeff Frane Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Jul 93 11:27:32 EDT From: CHUCKM at PBN73.CV.COM Subject: step mashing temperature formula? Hello brewers, PErhaps someone can help... Does anyone have a formula that will help me with Step infusions in order to hit proper temperatures. eg. I mash in a cooler tun. If I have X pounds of grain at Y degrees, how much 212 degree water must I add to raise the temp Z degrees. Given that I know X, Y, and Z all I need to find out is the 'how much'. Thanks in advance chuckm at pbn73.cv.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1182, 07/15/93