HOMEBREW Digest #1337 Sat 29 January 1994

Digest #1336 Digest #1338

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Breckenridge brewing (Aaron Birenboim)
  Yeast for Bitters (Jim Busch)
  Remove me from your mailing list. (MICHAEL)
  hop filtering / stout (Carl Howes)
  Stanford machine down? (Mike Dix)
  bottles (nr706)
  pitch yeast before or after oxygenation? (Richard Dante)
  Homebrew Digest #1335 (J (Jim King)
  Crystallized Malt etc. ("Cliff Dominy" )
  about Lambic and Gueuse (perpete)
  Jim Busch Where Are You? (LUKASIK_D)
  Coors and specialty beers (28-Jan-1994 0911 -0500)
  Re: Culturing & stuff (Jim Busch)
  Calories and alcohol from homebrew (bickham)
  RE:CO2 in priming (Jim Doyle)
  Brewcap (Peter Rust)
  Brewferm (korz)
  Another question about dry hopping (Dan deRegnier)
  rye malt (florianb)
  Whitbread Best Bitter clone? (David Hinz W-641 548-3221 )
  Gott vs. Igloo lauter tuns (Richard Dante)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 13:13:34 MST From: abirenbo at redwood.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) Subject: Breckenridge brewing Mark Bunster (mbunster at hibbs.vcu.edu) wrote: >Breckenridge seems to be a new micro (12,500 barrels a year--what's the limit >at which a place becomes a mini?) that's contract brewed in Denver, and the >IPA is ugly. Thin color, some off smell (sour, almost rancid but not in a >spoiled kind of way, if that makes sense), and strange taste. No head either, >but I seem to recall that's hard for an IPA. If it was spoiled I might feel >better, but I don't think it was--it was just not good. Any other experiences >with other styles from this brewer? Well... breckenridge started as a pub at a ski resort (in Breckenridge CO). To the best of my knowledge, it was started by venture capitolists... not the dream of a brewer. They still have the original pub, where they brew right behind the bar IN THE OPEN. No seperate brewing facilities kept hospital clean. As they grew, they opened a pub which happens to be right by the new CO Rockies stadium. They brew for bottling at this pub location. Once again, the brewing facilities are near the kitchen and open to the air of the pub. The bottling line is seperated from the dining hall only by a "devider" which does not reach the roof. Seeing this, infection seems likely. Yes, i've had the beer. it all seems off. I cannot say "infection" for sure, but it seems likely. Even without off flavors, the beer seems to lean toward the banal side. Cryin shame that such a wonderful pub location (by the ball park) is going to waste. I'm absolutely astonished to see that these guys are actually marketing their stuff out of state!!! aaron Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 1994 15:28:26 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Yeast for Bitters > From: npyle at n33.stortek.com > >Yeast: Wyeast London, Youngs, Fullers cultures. > > Why the London? This is not a flame, I'm just curious. London is famous for > its porters, whereas the good bitters are from Burton-on-Trent and scattered > parts, no? I would assume that the British ale yeast would be best for > bitters (and best bitters). Of course, this is assuming that Wyeast's naming > scheme is something more than random choice of names (bad assumption?). Well, I wasnt trying to cover the entire spectrum. Certainly the British yeast would be fine. I actually dont have much current experience with these Wyeasts, so I am going back a bit. Doesnt London give a slight "woody" character to the beers? I really like this in a bitter. Certainly London historically was know for its porters, but I loved the Youngs and Fullers bitters, as well as bitters brewed south of London. The Larkins brewery strain gave excellent results, reletively clean but slight woody character, great performer, top cropper... My current bitter would be the real thing if I hadnt used american ale yeast... As for the bitters brewed north, thats another trip :-). Best, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 1994 16:01 EDT From: MICHAEL at ROO.FIT.EDU Subject: Remove me from your mailing list. > Please remove me from your mailing list. > > Thank you. > > michael at roo.fit.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 16:21:11 EST From: sdlsb.dnet!73410%sdlcc at swlvx2.msd.ray.com (Carl Howes) Subject: hop filtering / stout The two major categories of response to my hop removal query were pour through a kitchen strainer and siphon using a stainless or copper scrubbing pad on the kettle end of the hose. I have not yet tried the latter but had problems with pouring three gallons of concentrated wort in any kind of a controlled fashion. One suggested whirlpooling to create a pile of hops and cold break in the center of the pot and siphoning from the edge. This will have to wait until I get a bigger pot - three ounces of hop flowers (from plugs) fills about a third of my current boiling pot. PBrooks asked about my fermentation temperature. Since I am very pleased with the results on this batch, here is the recipie which I dubbed Krakastouta after my airlock went flying about 40 hours after pitching. 2# Pale malt 1# Flaked barley 0.75# Crystal malt 1# Roasted barley 7# M&F light DME 2 oz Chinook (12.5 A) Wyeast #1084 Irish Ale Mash pale malt and flaked barley at 156-160F for 1.5 hours. Steep crystal and roasted barley for 45 minutes after raising to 160F. Sparge. Raise to 180F and add extract. Raise to boiling and add hops. Boil for 90 minutes to drive off hop aromatics. Strain into carboy and top off with water. Pitch yeast from swelled package and shake well. O.G. 1.067, F.G. 1.017. Bottled with 3/4 cup of corn sugar and conditioned at room temp for a month. Fermentation and conditioning were both at 65-70F. My target was Guiness and aside from deciding not to try duplicating the sour note this got closer than I had any reason to expect. This makes an excellent dry stout IMNSHO. Carl 73410 at sdlcc.msd.ray.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 18:45:51 "PST From: Mike Dix <mdix at dcssc.sj.hp.com> Subject: Stanford machine down? I have been trying to retrieve archive files from sierra.stanford.edu for a couple of days now without success. Previously, it has worked like a good thing. Is the machine down, overworked, etc? Thanks, Mike Dix Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 94 01:15:10 EST From: nr706 at aol.com Subject: bottles Has anyone recently sung the praises of Joseph Huber Brewing in Monroe, Wisconsin? Their beer is available in the Chicago area in returnable bottles for less than $7 a case. While the beer is at best drinkable (I prefer their Rhinelander brand to their Huber), the bottles seem strong, and the labels soak off easily. Can anyone else cite a better source of bottles for their homebrew? BTW, not associated with Huber, just a satisfied/impressed customer. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 22:56:34 PST From: rdante at icogsci1.UCSD.EDU (Richard Dante) Subject: pitch yeast before or after oxygenation? Is there a reason to pitch yeast after one's thru fiddling with the wort (finish siphoning, oxygenation, etc.)? I just pour my yeast in while my wort siphons thru my counterflow chiller and then I do the carboy twist for a bout a minute to oxygenate (should I dance with my carboy longer then this or am I oxygenating it plenty?) Just about everything I read suggests that people usually pitch their yeast after they shake their wort. What's wrong with shaking the wort with the yeast? BTW I usually get bubbling within 6 hours and crap burping out my blowoff tube within 12. Rick Dante rdante at ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 94 14:16:00 -0800 From: jim.king at kandy.com (Jim King) Subject: Homebrew Digest #1335 (J In answer to the questions about cooler mashing: H>I predict this will be the start of an interesting discussion on Coole H>Tun practices. It reminded me of a question that I asked our brewshop H>Seichert, and that is "How deep can/should the grain bed be?" His answ H>one half of the shortest cross sectional dimension. For example, in a H>high cooler, the maximum grainbed depth should be 7 inches. I use a 52 quart cooler, and have filled it more than half way (for a REALLY dark barley wine.) I turn my tubing with the slits downward so that the weight of the grain cannot aid in clogging any slits. Plus, there are 4 PVC pipes with slits on the bottom, so even if a few get clogged, the sparge will not get stuck. BTW, I too have had no problem with temperature loss during the mash. I lose about 15 degrees from the strike temperature when adding the water to the grain, but less than 5 degrees over a mash, even if it takes 2 hours. I usually strike at 170, making the mash about 155. Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Jan 94 14:00:39 SAST-2 From: "Cliff Dominy" <CLIFF at micro.uct.ac.za> Subject: Crystallized Malt etc. I am a novice brewer, who as recently been given 1.5kg of crystallized malt. Can I treat this as I would a malt extract, or does it require an amylase step in order to break down the carbohydrates further ? One other question : What are finings - and when does one add them to a brew? Many thanks Cliff Dominy |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| (^)___(^) | Cliff Dominy cliff at micro.uct.ac.za | (O^O) | Fax : 27 21 650 - 4023 |-----ooO--(*)--Ooo--- | |---|---|---|---|---|- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-|---|---|---|---|--- ---|---|---|---|---|- -----ooO-------Ooo--- ~~ ~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 94 13:42:01 +0100 From: perpete at inbr.ucl.ac.be Subject: about Lambic and Gueuse Last week, somebody has requested informations about Lambic. I have reply once time but I didn't find the E-mail adress. Please, may you send a mail for I answeer you. Thanks PERPETE Philippe. Laboratoire des industries et technologies brassicoles. INBR - U.C.L. Place croix du sud, 2; bte 7 1348 LLN 010/47 87 62 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 1994 09:48:24 -0500 (EST) From: LUKASIK_D at sunybroome.edu Subject: Jim Busch Where Are You? Can anyone out there (Jim?) give me an internet address for Jim Busch? I have tried to contact him several time at "busch at daacdevl.stx.com" and have gotten the mail back as undeliverable? I would like to "talk" directly rather than use up band width on the HBD and he has written several things that would directly impact my brewing, etc. TIA Doug. (Internet: Lukasik_d at sunybroome.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 94 09:47:30 EST From: 28-Jan-1994 0911 -0500 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> Subject: Coors and specialty beers The Wall Street Journal recently (this week) had an article on the business of the big breweries in the US. The article mentioned that Coors is planning on rolling out 3 new brews in '94: Spring Bock (for the spring) A wheat brew (summer) Octoberfest (fall) JC Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 1994 10:34:22 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Re: Culturing & stuff RE: Mashing raw wheat: > > Bring 2 gallons water to boil. Add unmalted wheat and hold at 185-195 > degrees for 20 minutes. A good Wit can also be made exclusively using staged protein rests. THe entire grain bill is combined and held through numerous protein rests, and then an upward step mash will convert the mash. I suspect the same can be said of raw Rye, although I have no experience with Rye. I find the protein rests a bit easier than the other method. ************** > Subject: RE: Oktoberfest trip and Munich Brewery Tours > Reserved seats at an Oktoberfest Tent ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Now thats worth some extra bucks!!! > Brewery/Beer Hall Tours: > Forshungsbraurei ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^!!!!! Great place, not to be missed. ************* John writes about culturing: > > I didnt say to use liquid only, I just prefer it. I really doubt that with typical streaking done in the home that you would steak down to the point where you could be certain that there was only one cell per growth node. I disagree. THe point is that you do multiple streaks on the plate, crossing each streak with the loop, until there is a very thin line of yeast. This line of yeast will show clumps of colonies of cells. The very small colonies will be a collection of homogenious copies of the parent cells. Yes, they are not "one cell per node" , but who cares? They are copies of the cell, and it is not too difficult to see when one is contaminated. > > Especially in the summer, even in a hood, you will occasionally get airborn > stuff landing on a section of exposed agar (or landing on the yeast) and get > contamination. As explained in my article on sterile transfer techniques in > the Zymurgy yeast issue, you can avoid potential contamination problems by > using liquid. I'm not trying to start a flame fest here, but if you dont start from a plate, how do know how "pure" the original liquid yeast source is? For all practical matters, one can pay close attention to the fermentation performance of each batch, and base the results on this. I am quite sure that both of the methods being described will make good beer, none of us do everything the same, its what makes brewing unique and interesting. > > >Additionally, it is my belief that slants/plates can last longer as a > >stable culture than a liquid culture. > Plates that undergo temperature changes are going to respire and possibly suck in contamination. I keep liquid yeast stored at 28 degrees F in surplus > vacutainers (test tubes with septa stoppers so you can add and remove yeast > and maintain sterility), as well as other vessels with hypodermic septa > attached. These cultures last for months between restarting. Adding glycerine > to the liquid will allow you to further reduce the temperature and increase storage life. Being under liquid at low temps reduces exposure to O2. Many of my microbiologist aquaintances store liquid yeast in this mannor just like they > do in their labs. I believe the Lab floks are much more likely to store slants under -70C , or somewhere way down there....Reculturing frequencies of 6-12 months are still advisable. Plates are definetly less stable media, they are for short term storage/selection of strains to be looped into the slant. > > >Due mainly to the fact that the > >medium is solid, therefore nutrients will diffuse to the culture in a > >slower fashion > I am not aware of nutrients diffusing thru chilled agar at any appreciable rate (I would welcome any citations), most organisms try to grow across agar to get to nutrients. The so called unfermentables can be utilized, at much slower rate. Right, it is the reduction of the rate of metabolism of the cell that increases the shelf life. > > sterilized with this. I have autoclaving trays, but aluminum foil will work nicely for wrapping the tools. The biggest hassle for me as a cultivater was to construct a glove box, and buying a high end pressure cooker - suplus places abound with the rest of the toys. John Mallett, brewmaster at Old Dominion, wrote a good article in the New Brewer magazine showing how a simple UV light sanitary glove box can be constructed, including parts numbers. The main cost is around $24 for the UV bulb. ONe of my main concerns with packaged yeast is shelf life. If the yeast is stored away from a nutrient source, it eventually will experience glycogyn depletion, which results in less than optimum sterol synthesis. The simple remedy is to feed the yeast. > > Subject: High O.G. culturing > > Jim Busch writes in HBD #1335: > > > No!!!!! Never , ever culture from a high gravity beer. The upper end "rule > > of thumb" is 1.060. > > What is the reason for this rule? Is it because the yeast will tend to > become overattenuative? OK, except for high gravity Belgian strains :_) Is Verboden Vrucht bottle conditioned? Since the Belgian strains are pretty hard to come by, you can do some very small test ferments, and if the results are positive, go with the strain. I believe higher ABV levels can lead to mutations, and a thinning of the cell wall (is this right??). I gotta ask my yeast doctor. > Subject: Coors SpringBock??? I have heard that Coors will have several seasonals: Spring Bock/Maibock, Weizen, Maerzen, and that Winterthing. Grateful fermenting, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 1994 11:44:07 -0500 (EST) From: bickham at msc.cornell.edu Subject: Calories and alcohol from homebrew This topic has come up a number of times, so I've written a relatively short Fortran program based on various formulas George Fix has posted on this subject. The output of the program is three tables showing the percent alcohol, calories, and percent calories from alcohol as a function of the original and final apparent gravities. I'll also send a copy of this to the homebrew archives at sierra.stanford.edu. Any flames on my using Fortran code will be forwarded to /dev/null ;-) Here it is: c This program calculates the caloric content of homebrew using the c formulas posted to the Homebrew Digest by George Fix. c Written by Scott Bickham (bickham at msc.cornell.edu) double precision a(10),og,re(10),fg(10),oe(10) double precision ae(10),cal(10),pfa(10) integer i,j open (unit=11, file='alc.dat',status='new') open (unit=12, file='cal.dat',status='new') open (unit=13, file='pfa.dat',status='new') c c Loop through the original and final apparent (measured) gravities. The c increments, and starting and ending values can be changed as needed. c do 5 j=1,10 fg(j)=1.004 + j*0.002 5 continue c c Identify and label the columns in the tables c write (11,*) " Percent Alcohol by Weight" write (11,*) " " write (11,*) " Final Gravity" write (11,300) " O.G.",(fg(j),j=1,10) write (11,*) " ---------------------------------------------------- z------------------------" write (12,*) " Calories" write (12,*) " " write (12,*) " Final Gravity" write (12,300) " O.G.",(fg(j),j=1,10) write(12,*) " ----------------------------------------------------- z-----------------------" write (13,*) " Percent of Calories from Alcohol" write (13,*) " " write (13,*) " Final Gravity" write (13,300) " O.G.",(fg(j),j=1,10) write (13,*) " ---------------------------------------------------- z------------------------" do 10 i=1,20 do 20 j=1,10 og=1.030 + i*0.002 c c The next two lines use the factor of 4 formula to convert from hydrometer C readings to degress Plato c c oe(j)=(og-1.00)*1000.0/4.0 c ae(j)=(fg(j)-1.00)*1000.0/4.0 c c These use a quadratic fit to the Plato tables for better results c oe(j)=668.72*og -463.37 -205.347*og*og ae(j)=668.72*fg(j) -463.37 -205.347*fg(j)*fg(j) c c Calculate the real extract from the original and apparent extracts, c then find the calories and percent alcohol by weight c re(j)=0.1808*oe(j) + 0.8192*ae(j) a(j)=(oe(j)-re(j))/(2.0665-0.010665*oe(j)) cal(j)=(6.9*a(j) + 4.0*(re(j) - 0.1))*3.55*fg(j) c c The percent of the calories from alcohol is given by: c pfa(j)=100.0*6.9*a(j)/(6.9*a(j) +4.0*(re(j)-0.1)) 100 format (1f7.3,10f7.2) 200 format (1f7.3,10f7.1) 300 format (1a7,10f7.3) 20 continue write (11,100) og,(a(j),j=1,10) write (12,200) og,(cal(j),j=1,10) write (13,200) og,(pfa(j),j=1,10) 10 continue end Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 1994 09:04:53 -0700 From: Jim Doyle <jgdoyle at uci.edu> Subject: RE:CO2 in priming I saw this bit of advice in today's HBD, and thought I should throw in a bit of my own... >"Prior to transfering wort, whether into secondary or bottling carboy, >a small piece of dry ice in the empty carboy will fill it with CO2 and >prevent any oxidation from agitation." I would warn that *some* dry ice contains benzene which is classified as a carcinogen (class 2). As a buyer for a university, this has come to my attention in the past... I won't venture to say that small amounts of dry-ice-induced-benzene will turn your homebrew into cancer causing swill or anything, and we must remember that "without chemicals-life itself would be impossible"!! That's about enough from me... jgdoyle at uci.edu -but my friends call me Chance Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Jan 94 14:02:44 EST From: Peter Rust <73552.2074 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Brewcap In response to: >>Date: Sat, 22 Jan 1994 15:44:33 -0400 (EDT) >>From: RADAMSON at delphi.com >>Subject: Albany,NY fest & BrewCap >>New to me is the BrewCap contraption. I'm hesitant to use it, fearing 5 gal throughout my carpets. >>If anyone has any experienced tips for using this thing, please pass along. I admit I'm very >>curious about it and sounds like a good idea, but I'd like to get all the angles beforehand, and >>the bad experiences second-hand. Thanks. I purchased a brewcap several months ago after getting positive email on the item from another forum but would not recommend it. The device is supposed to allow you to do the primary and secondary ferments and bottle priming all in one carboy without transferring the beer. I found the device difficult to use, extremely time consuming and not worth the effort for the following reasons. 1. It does not leak but I was unable to get the blowoff to effectively work its way out of the blowoff tube. The inverted carboy is wide at the top and the blowoff tended to stick to the sides, the top and float all around the opening of the blow off tube. I tried changing the level of the tube but this did not help. The directions indicate that you have to rotate the carboy several times a day in order to keep the foam from sticking to the glass! 2. The tube on the bottom was designed to collect the yeast sediment but it was way too small to do this properly. As the yeast started to settle out, you could withdraw some yeast but as the sedimentation rate increased the tube would clog at the bottom of the inverted carboy. 3. You can add priming sugar to the beer with the brewcap but there is no way to mix the solution without disturbing the scum stuck to the sides/top and if all of the yeast was not filtered out this will drain into your bottles. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 94 13:10 CST From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Brewferm Scott writes: >I just finished by third batch of brew and purchased a Brewferm Wheat Beer >kit. Iwas surprised upon reading the instructions that no boiling was >suggested. >Is this safe, or am I taking a massive risk of contracting a nasty infection? >I know others who have complained about the Brewferm Framboise (raspberry) >kits, saying they smelled great during the boil but were greatly lacking in >raspberry flavor and aroma in the finished product. After tasting the Brewferm Kriek [sic] kit made with a boil, I decided to try making it without a boil as it says in the instructions. Instead of adding corn sugar as directed, I used two cans in a 5-gallon batch (note: VERY EXPENSIVE!). I brought 4.75 gallons to a boil, turned off the heat, added the extract, stirred, chilled, aerated, put it in a carboy, pitched Wyeast London Ale #1028, etc., etc. The result: no infection (after a year in the bottle, even) but the flavor was very disappointing. Very little cherry flavor, even at double the normal usage. It's drinkable, not remotely anything like a real Kriek, but for the money ($17.00/can -- $34 for this batch!), it was a bust. I suspect that the Framboise [sic] may be I've never made, but have tasted some of the other Brewferm Kits. There are some interesting flavors there, but I think that the Kriek [sic] kit was not worth the money I paid for it. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 94 15:15:16 EST From: Dan deRegnier <YC06 at MUSIC.FERRIS.EDU> Subject: Another question about dry hopping Hello all-- I still consider myself a rookie (7 batches) and would like to improve the quality of my brew. I have been following the thread of dry hopping. My next batch is going to be a czech pilsner. Is it appropriate to dry hop this style? If so, with what. I reviewed the hop faq but it doesn't really address what styles of beers are dry hopped and which are not. If it does, I missed it. Where can I get info. on which styles are dry hopped? I have visited the Grand Rapids Brewing Co., Grand Rapids, MI. I only had time to try the sampler (4 oz. of their 5 styles), but I liked what I had. I am going back to do some more taste test. Anyone else tried it. Anyone else heard of it? Thanks for your help. ********************************* Daniel P. deRegnier, MS, MT(ASCP) Ferris State University yc06 at music.ferris.edu yc06 at ferris.bitnet ********************************* Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 94 12:15:45 PST From: florianb at computer.cna.tek.com Subject: rye malt c-amb at math.utah.edu writes: > My recipie will be based on the following ratio's: > 50 - 60% rye malt And tlyons at netcom.com (Tom Lyons) replies: >You will end up with the mother of all stuck runoffs, I'm I've used rye in many recipes throughout the years. My experience is that you don't even have to use malted rye. You can simply obtain rye berries from the bulk grocery and grind them directly with the other malted grains. However, in this form, only a pound or two should be used in the recipe unless you can compensate with a few pounds of 6-row. Otherwise you will have conversion problems. The mash will become hopelessly stuck in most circumstances. I remedy this by using a kabob skewer to poke holes in the filter bed. Sometimes, I scrape the top of the filter bed to allow better seepage. This is similar to what commercial brewers do with automatic machinery. Rye will produce a flavor in pale ale that I can only describe as "pointed." In some recipes it will produce what I call a "dirty-sock" flavor. Imagine taking an old athletic sock that's been buried in a sneaker under a chicken coop (thanks, Hawkeye) for a hundred years, and jamming it in your mouth. That's what I mean. (It's a flavor featured by most of the microbrewed beers here in Oregon.) It's not mold, wild yeast, nor bacteria. It's some wierd combination of chemicals. Rye also imparts a grayish tone to the color of pale ale. Good luck on using it. I've never had much luck with it. An alternative grain is rolled triticale, which I sometimes put into the mash. It also lends a "pointed" flavor that avoids the dirty-sock effect. It is useful in pale ales, light ales, and wheat beer. I recommend only about 1/2 pound per. Florian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 94 15:24:51 CST From: hinz at bass.med.ge.com (David Hinz W-641 548-3221 ) Subject: Whitbread Best Bitter clone? Greetings, all. I just returned from a wonderful couple of months in England, and now that I've returned I would like to get a recipe for a clone of Whitbread best bitter. I know the whitbread yeast is available at my local brewing store, so what else do I need? Extract or all-grain would be equally welcome. (no snobbery here!) Thanks muchly, Dave Hinz PS Not only was the beer fantastic, but the pints in England are 20 ounces, not the wimpy 16 we have here! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 94 23:42:33 PST From: rdante at icogsci1.UCSD.EDU (Richard Dante) Subject: Gott vs. Igloo lauter tuns Could somebody please enlighten me on the following: Which is better for mashing, the infmaous Gott 5 gallon cylinder or the Igloo version of the same thing? I vaguely remember mention that the plastic Gott/Rubermaid uses handles heat better than Igloos but I'd like some confirmation. I'm getting fed up with the mediocre brews I've been making from $1.70/lb bulk Alexander's extract and am slowly gathering supplies for all-grain (just plunked down $42.50 + a whopping $16 S&H for a 15.5 gal straight sided keg brewkettle from BCI). RIght now everybody seems to be out of Gott coolers until spring (Sears, Kmart) but the local Costco has 5 gal Igloos for $17 or $18. Should I look around some more for a Gott or wait until the stores start stocking them or should I just buy the Igloo? I might brew a few batches of meads and I still have 6# of pale extract I need to brew so I'd rather wait if consensus is that Gott coolers are better than igloos. Thanks for helping me begin my move to the joys of all-grain brewing :) Rick Dante rdante at ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1337, 01/29/94