HOMEBREW Digest #1372 Tue 15 March 1994

Digest #1371 Digest #1373

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Homebrew Digest #1371 (March 12, 1994) (Peter Karp)
  Beer stuff (John Robinson)
  Where should I plant my hops? (Rick Dante)
  Floating Thermometers (8-293-5810 or (914))" <huckfinn at vnet.IBM.COM>
  Broken bottle when capping! (AYLSWRTH)
  Re:  Unclear beer in a C-Keg (fudgemstr)
  Lactic Acid (Mark Ratliff)
  Wheat Beer OG (GNT_TOX_)
  NOTE 03/14/94 07:27:44 ("KERRY.WILSON")
  AHA Sanctioned Competition - Kenosha, WI ("THOMAS L. STOLFI")
  Re: Brewpubs (Jim Busch)
  Hot Water O2/Bulk Suppliers (Alexander R Mitchell)
  What have I brewed?? (I.J.Normington)
  Whiff of Banana (macdonald)
  brew pubs in NC ("Marc W. Julian")
  extract recipe copies for popular beers (taylor)
  Bad batches of beer (Fred Waltman)
  Homebrew U (GARY SINK 206-553-4687)
  First timer questions (Jack Boatman)
  be published (EVERSTEN)
  First Batch Paranoia (David Frazier)
  canning wort (Jim Grady)
  Testing conventional brewing wisdom (Joel Birkeland)
  Homebrew healthier then store bought?? (mont)
  Wort Gravity vs. Hop Utilization (npyle)
  Last call for contest entries (kaltenbach)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 12 Mar 1994 10:13:30 -0500 From: Peter Karp <karp at cs.columbia.edu> Subject: Homebrew Digest #1371 (March 12, 1994) >Date: Fri, 11 Mar 94 09:00:38 EST >From: budinski1 at aol.com >Subject: mass. suppliers - -----<stuff deleted>---- >DON'T FORGET >TAXES ARE HIGH IN MASS. YOU MAY SAVE SOME $ BY BUYING IN NH OR MAIL ORDER!! Brewing ingredients are not taxed at all since they are classified as food. Equipment is taxed at the usual rate of 5%. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 1994 19:55:56 -0400 (AST) From: robinson at orbit.acrso.ns.ca (John Robinson) Subject: Beer stuff Some of you may remember my posting about a Marzen I brewed a while back where I scorched the mash (while doing a step infusion mash). For the record, the scorched taste was much more noticeable when fermentation was complete, but mellowed substanially with time until it more or less completely disappeared. I made another Marzen, this time with a double decoction mash. It is still ferementing. At this point all I can report is that during the lag time the wort was so clear you could read through it. I'm dying to see how it turns out. Recently I also did a triple decoction mash on a Pilsner, using Bavarian Pils malt and the new Czech Pils yeast from Wyeast. The triple decoction mash was very time consuming, about six hours for the mash alone. This was quite an involved process as I mashed in at cold tap water temps, infused with boiling water to raise it to acid rest temps (approx 97 F) and then proceeded with the decoctions. The grain for the Pilsner, as well as the grain for a pale ale I did recently, was ground with a JSP Malt Mill that is available at a local homebrew shop. While I haven't done any objective or quantitative comparisons, subjectively I prefer the crush provided by the malt mill over my corona. While I will probably continue to use my corona for some time, this experience has strengthed my desire to one day own my own Malt Mill. I can not remember if I mentioned it in a previous post or not, but my first attempt at making sake has been a resounding success. The first batch was made as per Eckhardt's book, and is in my not so humble opinion, excellent. Currently, I'm looking for ways to increase the volume of beer I brew per session. I've considered ring burners and such like, as well as only doing a partial boil and spliting the wort between two batches. I might try using the same wort and two different yeasts to produce different beers. I would be interested to hear other people's experiences in this regard. I am also interested in making a Maple Wheat beer, not unlike that brewed by the Niagra brewing company. If anyone has any experience brewing with maple syrup, it would be most appreciated. I am more interested in hearing from people who have brewed *and* consumed some or all of at least one batch. I want an idea of how much syrup I should add to for what degree of maple flavor. Cost is not, at least initially, a concern. - -- John Robinson Internet: robinson at orbit.acrso.ns.ca Systems Manager Atlantic Centre for Remote If it is worth doing, it is worth Sensing of the Oceans doing wrong until you get it right. DOD #0069 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 94 11:46:36 PST From: rdante at icogsci1.UCSD.EDU (Rick Dante) Subject: Where should I plant my hops? Hello Hop Farmers! I too want to grow hops this year. I'm thinking of getting Cascade, Centennial, Mt. Hood, Nugget, Perle, and Tettnanger rhizomes. Anyways I have a big dilema: Where to put them. 1. Front of the house seems ideal for the hops. It faces South and is in full face of the sun until the houses across the street block it at the end of the day. But a 25 foot pole sticking up might stand out. The neighbors might not like it. The Landlord might not like it. 2. The Backyard faces North. A 12' X 35' trellis already exists extending out of this north wall but it is only 8' high. It's all (rubbly) concrete underneath except for 35' X 2' dirt flower area (no flowers there now) right next to the wall. Obviously the overhead lattice is huge, but I'm concerned about the 8' height. 3. At the northeast corner of the house there is a 9' X 9' square of dirt just past the overhead trellis. If I planted here I could nail a 15' pole extending from the top of trellis and run string down to the hop hills on the 9' X 9' square. This square is somewhat exposed to the south. The problem here is a pole sticking 15' past the roof might be noticible to the people next door, though it might not be too noticible. 4. Past the trellis in the backyard is a fence and below the fence the hill is covered with thick iceplant. I could painstakingly clear some of this out, plant hop hills and nail 5' poles to the top of teh trellis and run string down to the hills. This would be 25'. THe house will block its sun eventually (except for the vines reaching 5' above the roof). What should I do? Where should I plant the rhizomes?? neighbors | ______________________________________ | | | 3 | neighbors | dirt concrete | 9'X9' | line | ______________________________| |-|-|-|x| | | this ||-|-|-x| | |-|-|-|x| | | side ||-|-|-x| E | 1 |-| |x| | | | of ||- 2 x| _|__S | 4 |-| |x| N- | _______| | the ||-|-|- | | |-|-|-| | W | street ||-|-|- | |-|-|-|x| house | | ||-|-|-x| | |-|-|-|x| | | ||-|-|-x| | |-|-|-|x| | | ||-|-|-x|______________________| | concrete | |_________________________________________ | neighbors Thanks for helping out a new hop farmer! Rick Dante rdante at ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 94 17:25:50 EST From: "Paul Austin (8-293-5810 or (914))" <huckfinn at vnet.IBM.COM> Subject: Floating Thermometers Some time ago there was discussion about how to make a floating thermometer. On a recent trip to my brew supplier I saw some for sale. They look quite similar to the thermometers you'd use in a fish tank. The ones I saw are made by True Brew, and cost about $4. So for those who want one, they exist. Paul Austin Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 94 18:20:42 EST From: AYLSWRTH at MANVM2.VNET.IBM.COM Subject: Broken bottle when capping! Well, I was bottling my beer this weekend, and on the third to last bottle, the neck broke in my capper! I've never experienced this before - has anyone else out there? Some data points - I had about half refillable bar bottles and half non-refillable microbrew bottles (Sam Adams, Celis, Dominion, etc.). The one that broke was one of the non-refillables. Also, my capper is one of the double-lever kinds. I was just starting to become convinced that the non-refillable brown long necks were just as good as the others, especially after reading it in a Zymurgy article in the current issue, but now I'm not so sure. Does anyone out there agree with me that it was probably the bottle? Would it be less likely to happen with a floor model capper? Or was this just a fluke that could happen to any bottle with any capper? Also, I refuse to get worried when I think to myself "if this bottle can't stand the force of my capper, will it withstand the force of carbonation?" - but the thought does continue to pop up! Thomas Aylesworth Dept. PX8/Space Processor Software Engineering Loral Federal Systems, Manassas, VA - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Internet: aylswrth at manvm2.vnet.ibm.com | PROFS: AYLSWRTH at MANVM2 Phone: (703) 367-6171 | T/L: 725-6171 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 94 21:35:41 EST From: fudgemstr at aol.com Subject: Re: Unclear beer in a C-Keg Benjamin Woodliff answers Steve Zabarnick: >Prior to filling an empty keg, it's recommended to gently run a >volumn of C02 into it with the keg lid left unsealed The reason to >do this is so that the beer picks up no oxygen during the tranfer >from the fermentation vessel to the keg. When I keg, I use a sterilant that does not need a rinse, it is iodine based, and after I scrub it out with hot water, I fill the keg up with the sterilant. Then I cap the keg, and after waiting at least ten minutes for the sterilization to take place, I drive the sterilant out with CO2. Then I open the keg to rack, and I am racking into a CO2 environment, no Oxigenation, no cloudy beers. The force carb is better for a non cloudy beer. I have been told that if you naturally carb (prime) then the "extra" fermentation that takes place to get your carb causes the yeast involved to flocculate into sediment on the bottom and can give you a cloudy beer. With a force carb and a good rack, i.e. leave the sediment behind in the fermenter, your beer should look almost as if it were filtered. Hope this helps. Fudge Fudgemstr at AOL.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 94 21:50:00 EST From: mratliff at gatecom.com (Mark Ratliff) Subject: Lactic Acid I am one of the crazy ones who wants to start making belgian ales. My question is: Is there a place I can purchace lactobacillus (lactic acid bacteria) or do I need to create it by souring lactose? The reason I am asking is that I am very interested in creating a Flander's Brown or Belgian Red which could use the introduction of lactic acid during a secondary fermentation. I could be incorrect on this though. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Mark Ratliff mratliff at gatecom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 08:24 EST From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> Subject: Wheat Beer OG I find this rather odd, so I'm hoping that you all can help me. I made a weizenbier yesterday. I used the new Wyeast wheat culture(the one without a starter) and I did the Papzian, boil all malt in 1 1/2 gallons and dilute down method. Well, I used one can of M&F Wheat and a bag of Northwestern Weizen, made five gallons. My O.G. was 1.030. It seems low. Sholdn't I have an O.G. of around 1.046? What are the chances I didn't stir the stuff good enough to get it all dissolved? Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Mar 1994 07:27:07 PST From: "KERRY.WILSON" <HWCEMC2.KWILSON at HW1.CAHWNET.GOV> Subject: NOTE 03/14/94 07:27:44 I use a Dayton "SPDT temperature control" model 2E399 attached to a 23 cu ft chest freezer. It works great. My freezer stays within 2 degrees. It is not as inexpensive as a air stat but it was my understanding that an air stat will not work on a freezer. The infomation you will need to set it up. You will need wire and plugs. Set freezer control to coldest. Tie the green (ground) together. Tie the white together. The black from outlet to the red screw. The black from freezer to the white screw. Ensure the the house wiring is correct for netural and hot. I have a SS keg convereted kettle. Does any have any suggestion as to the distance a 170,000 btu burner should be from the bottom of the pot? 3 or 4 inches?? or suggestions to determine correct distance. Metal Fusion of Kenner, LA sell a 170,000 btu burner for $15.50 FOB Kenner. 1-800-783-3885 The model # for the burner is "WKAf 1". I have no connection to this company except being a happy customer. Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Mar 1994 09:34:09 GMT From: "THOMAS L. STOLFI" <WAUTS at CWEMAIL.ceco.com> Subject: AHA Sanctioned Competition - Kenosha, WI Contest Announcement Bidal Society of Kenosha Eighth Annual AHA Sanctioned Competition Competition Date: April 23, 1994 Entry Deadline: April 16, 1994 Last year we received 238 entries and awarded ribbons in 21 categories. Any judges interested in helping out please contact me ASAP. For more information send me your fax number, e-mail, or snail mail address. Tom Stolfi wauts at cwemail.ceco.com p.s. Please provide full email address in your message, our email reply is not very reliable. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 09:25:18 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Re: Brewpubs Art writes: > Subject: Opening a Brewpub > > The scale that everyone seems to think constiutes a brewpub > requires a $500K to $1mm investment. The many wonderful ones > I've seen all fit that criteria. Fine. > > I want to open a brewpub, too. I envision a corner bar in some > working class neighborhood. You know, where guys with Polish > surnames (or African, for that matter. I'm easy) eat pickled > eggs and drink Pabst. I'll stick my half-barrel home rig in > the back. If folks like it, fine. If not I'll still have > Pabst. If I'm wildly successful, well, I can scale up from > there. > > The big flaw in this dream, as I see it, is regulation. The > regulatory cost is the same whether you're big or small so > there are economies of scale involved. That and you might be brewing yourself into the ground (or your brewer, if you dont brew the beer). Think about how fast 1/2 BBl of beer goes. Yields 12 gallons, maybe 15-18 if you do high gravity brewing. Say thats one 1/2 BBl per batch. Now, how many tanks do you need, how many days to ferment one batch? Say a 7 day beer, you brew every day (!), and filter since you are pushing young beer. So, you need 5-7 fermenters, and you only make 7 kegs of beer per week? At 7 hours per brew, plus 2 to filter, you can look forward to 63 hours in the brewhouse alone! You wont make much money this way, and whoever the brewer is will hate it. Its a lot better to put in at least a 5BBl brewery even if the clientel is "Pabst swillers". AS soon as you open a "brewery", the beer snobs come out of the wood work! Good luck, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 09:04:45 EST From: Alexander R Mitchell <ARMITC01 at ULKYVM.LOUISVILLE.EDU> Subject: Hot Water O2/Bulk Suppliers Database/Analyst INF SYS Phone: (502)852-5603 I have two questions for the collected wisdom of HBD. A friend of mine adds ice to his hot boiled wort to cool it off quicker and to make the up the extra volume need (partial mash w/ extracts). He puts hot water from his tap into sanitized containers & freezes. He feels that most of the oxygen and chlorine has been forced out of the water by the water heater. Does anyone know if his assumptions are correct? Does anyone know of any wholesale suppliers will sell bulk grains/extracts to food co-opts at wholesale prices? Please send address/phone #'s. I'd appreciate any information on these subjects. Please Email me directly and I'll pass on the collected info to anyone that asks for it. Thanks. armitc01 at ulkyvm.louisville.edu "Mitchell" *** Fortes Fortuna Juvat *** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 15:58:08 GMT From: I.J.Normington at bnr.co.uk Subject: What have I brewed?? Hi, I recently read a few threads about yeast culturing and thought that it would be interesting to try it myself. So I looked in my fridge to see what beers I had that I could take a culture from. In the end I chose a Chimay (the kind with the blue metal cap) and started a culture. Within a few days I appeared to have succeeded judging from my bubbling airlock. Anyway, when it came to make up some wort into which I could pitch this culture all I had was a 2lb can of EDME SFX malt extract and 1lb of crushed malted wheat. So I did a partial mash, boiled with 1/2 oz of Hallertauer and came up with a gallon (imperial) of wort at SG 1064. I cooled, aerated and pitched. Racked after a week and kept it in the 2ndry for another two weeks. I guess that the fermentation temp was somewhere between 14 and 17 C. I then bottled with just under 1/4 cup of sugar. It tasted quite good at bottling and was quite a dark brown colour, but I couldn't really say what it tasted like (in terms of beer style) as I haven't really tasted too many of the Belgian styles. Anyone want to have a guess at what I've got?? Its been in the bottle now for a week so I think I'll give it least another couple of weeks before trying properly. Cheers, Ian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 09:32:02 EST From: macdonald at akocoa.enet.dec.com Subject: Whiff of Banana Ok, I haven't been paying attention. What is the prognosis for a brew now in secondary ( 4 days) which produces a hint of banana-like odors when sniffed? I know this has been discussed. I'm making a Victorian Bitter and am using Wyeast British Ale yeast A04. The aroma is not strong nor is it unpleasant, at least as of the moment. However, the possibility of infection with unwanted beasts comes to mind, particularly since I made one tiny, but mistaken step in my sanitizing procedures and I forgot to immerse my racking cane and siphon tube--I sanitized their insides, but forgot to sanitize their outsides--and I am afraid I may have infected the cool wort on transfer from the boiling kettle. Also I notice a collection of yeasties clinging to the side of the carboy, low down above the usual mass at the bottom. Looks like a series of little light colored whitish drips of wet paint. This all says " infection!!" to me. Any opinions, experience or knowledge of this out there? regards, bruce Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 11:31:42 EST From: "Marc W. Julian" <CMSMARC at UGA.CC.UGA.EDU> Subject: brew pubs in NC help help... I'm going to be traveling in NC this weekend and I need to know where I can find good brewpubs in the following cities.... Charlotte Durham Raleigh Greensboro RSVP to... Marc W. Julian - email: cmsmarc at uga.cc.uga.edu or cmsmarc at uga.bitnet thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 12:39:11 EST From: taylor at e5sf.hweng.syr.ge.com (taylor) Subject: extract recipe copies for popular beers Here are some recipes I just got from my local brew supply store for extract brewers. I thought readers might like these.. I have not tried all of these yet myself. These recipes were develop by the owner of the homebrew supply store, who brews all the time. So try some of these recipes and let me know how you make out. If anyone improves on these send me a message so I can update the recipe cards. Thanks... All of these are for 5 gallon batches. BECK'S LIGHT 1 can Mount Mellick Light Lager 2lbs. Extra Light Drymalt 1 1/2 oz. Hallertau Hops. Bring gallon of cold water to a boil. Remove from heat and add can of Light Lager and 2lbs of drymalt. Bring back to a boil. Add 1 oz. of Hallertau hops and simmer for 20 minutes. At the last minute of simmer add 1/2 hallertau. BECK's DARK 1 can Edme Dark Beer 1 can Amber Unhopped Extract 1 1/2 oz. Tettnanger or Hallertau hops. Bring gallon of cold water to a boil. Remove from heat and add can of Edme Dark and the can of Amber Unhopped extract. Bring back to a boil. Add 1 oz. of Tettenanger or Hallertau hops and simmer for 20 minutes. At the last minute of simmer add 1/2 hallertau. BASS ALE 1 can English Ale 1 can Unhopped light Extract 1 oz. Fuggles hop 1/2 oz. Willamette hops Bring gallon of cold water to a boil. Remove from heat and add can of English ale and the can of Unhopped light extract. Bring back to a boil. Add 1 oz. of Fuggles hops and simmer for 20 minutes. At the last minute of simmer add 1/2 Willamette. KILLIAN'S RED 1 can Mount Mellick Light Lager 2 lbs. Light Drymalt 2 cups Crystal Malt 1 oz. Fuggles hops Put the 2 cups of crystal malt in hop bag and put in gallon of cold water. Bring water up to a boil, then remove bag of crystal with strainer and throw away(you made a tea with the cystal). Remove from heat and add can of light lager and 2lbs. light drymalt. Bring back to a boil and add 1/2 oz Fuggles simmer for 20 minutes at last minute add other 1/2 oz. of fuggles. PETE'S WICKED ALE 2 cans Unhopped light Extract 1 lb Crystal Malt 1 oz. bullion hop 1 oz. Cascade hops 1 oz. Fuggles Ale Yeast Put the 1 lb crystal malt in hop bag and put in gallon of cold water. Bring water up to a boil, then remove bag of crystal with strainer and throw away(you made a tea with the cystal). Remove from heat and add 2 cans of Unhopped light extract. Bring back to a boil and add 1 oz bullion simmer for 30 minutes. Then add 1 oz. cascade hop and simmer for another 15 minutes. Then add 1/2 oz Fuggles simmer for 15 minutes. At last minute add other 1/2 oz. of fuggles. SAM ADAMS 2 cans Unhopped Light 1 oz. Cascade hop 2 oz. Hallertau hops Lager yeast Bring gallon of cold water to a boil. Remove from heat and add 2 cans of Unhopped light , Bring back to a boil. Add 1 oz. of Cascade hops and simmer for 30 minutes. Then add 1/2 oz. Hallertau hops and simmer for 10 minutes; add another 1/2 oz. Hallertau and simmer for another 10 minutes; add another 1/2 oz. Hallertau and simmer for another 10 minutes; At the last minute of simmer add 1/2 Hallertau. HARP 2 cans Unhopped Light EXtract 2 cups Crystal Malt 2 oz. Fuggles 1/2 oz. Willamette hops Lager Yeast Put the 2 cups of crystal malt in hop bag and put in gallon of cold water. Bring water up to a boil, then remove bag of crystal with strainer and throw away(you made a tea with the cystal). Remove from heat and add 2 cans of light extract. Bring back to a boil and add 1 oz Fuggles simmer for 30 minutes. Then add 1/2 oz. Fuggles hop simmer for 15 minutes; Then add another 1/2 oz. Fuggles hop simmer for 15 minutes, at last minute add 1/2 oz. of Willamette hops. SARANAC 7 lbs. Unhopped Light Extract 1 oz. Cascade Hops 1 1/2 oz Hallertau Hops Lager Yeast Bring gallon of cold water to a boil. Remove from heat and add 7 lbs. of Unhopped light , Bring back to a boil. Add 1 oz. of Cascade hops and simmer for 30 minutes. Then add 1/2 oz. Hallertau hops and simmer for 15 minutes; add another 1/2 oz. Hallertau and simmer for another 15 minutes; * after 3 days in the fermenter throw in 1/2 oz Hallertau. On the 7th day transfer beer to 5 gallon glass carboy to let clear and age. Doppelbock 1 can Ireks Amber 2 cans Unhopped Amber Extract 1 lb Crystal Malt 2 cups Chocolate Malt 1 cup Roasted Barley 4 1/2 oz Hallertau hops lager yeast Put the crystal malt, Chocolate and Roasted Barley in hop bag and put in gallon of cold water. Bring water up to a boil, then remove bags with strainer and throw away(you made a tea with the cystal). Remove from heat and add can of Ireks Amber and 2 cans of Unhopped Amber Extract. Bring back to a boil and add 2 ozs Hallertau simmer for 30 minutes. Then add 1 oz. Hallertau hop simmer for 15 minutes; Then add another 1/2 oz. Hallertau hop simmer for 5 minutes; Now add 1/2 oz hallertau hop and simmer for 10 minutes at last minute add 1/2 oz. of Hallertau hops. I hope you all enjoy these. Todd........ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 10:29:22 -0800 (PST) From: waltman at netcom.com (Fred Waltman) Subject: Bad batches of beer Rick Gontareck talked about a spruce beer that took a long time to mature: I have some brewing friends that I can bring to tears by reminding them of the batch they thru out. It was a Trappist style ale and when they racked to secondary it tasted foul and they decied to dump it. But they wanted to take it to the homebrew club's "troubleshooters corner" to find out the problem, so they grabbed a handy bucket (un-sanitized), filled it up; took a bottle (also unsanitized) and held it under until it filled and capped it. It was placed in the fermentation fridge to bring to the next meeting but was forgotten. Six months later as joke they gave it to somebody to drink and it was great! They claim it was the best beer they had made and 15 gallons of it when down the drain. Fred Waltman Marina del Rey, CA waltman at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 12:03:00 -0500 (EST) From: GARY SINK 206-553-4687 <SINK.GARY at epamail.epa.gov> Subject: Homebrew U Thought I'd provide a brief report on Homebrew U, a one-day seminar held in Seattle every March with well-known homebrewing experts/brewers. This years event was held on March 12th, with about 300 people attending. Main speakers were: Roger Mussche, Belgian yeast/lambic expert, Dave Miller, author and brewer; Randy Mosher, H.B., author; and Byron Burch, author. The brewers from Pike Place Ale, Thomas Kemper, and Big Time Brewpub also had a panel Q&A session. The seminar is organized by Liberty Malt Supply/Pike Place Brewery/Merchant du Vin Importers all owned in whole or part by Charles Finkel (disclaimer, etc.). An excellent lunch was prepared by local chefs, as well as several beer samples to accent the food (or was it the other way around?). Beers included: Pinkus organic Weizen, Ayinger Ur- Weisse, Lindeman's Framboise Lambic, Brasseurs, MacAndrews Scotch Ale, Pike place IPA, Rauchbier, Pike Place XXXXX Stout, Sam Smith Taddy porter, and Traquair House Ale (barleywine). They also broke out a few cases of Lindeman's Grand Cru Renee Lambic Gueuze, which Dr. Mussche had brought with him from belgium to be wholesaled by Merchant du Vin. They didn't even have labels on them yet! Afterward, many attendees worked their way to the Liberty Malt store to taste Pike Place Ale and barleywine, as well as chat with the speakers and others in the audience, including Mr. Sake, Fred Eckhardt and the brewer from Portland Brewing Co. To be honest, some of the talks were kind of dry (unless you're already into mead), but all in all, it was well worth the $55 fee. See ya next year! -disclaimer--disclaimer--disclaimer--disclaimer--disclaimer-- GSINK Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 08:34:47 EST From: Jack Boatman <c23jrb at kocrsv01.delcoelect.com> Subject: First timer questions Having just procurred the necessary equipment to brew my first batch, I find myself with a couple questions that I would sure appreciate answers to. I will be using a 5 gallon carboy, closed w/blow-off, single stage process, starting with a Coopers real ale kit (3.75#) and an additional 3# of bulk laegander light (syrup). This "recipe" was suggested by the brew supply store. I plan to ignore the instructions in the kit since they don't agree with what I've read and call for lots of white sugar. I do not plan to use any sugar (except some corn sugar for pitching to bottles). 1) What's the best way to store my 3# of bulk malt extract syrup since I won't be starting for a week or two? Does it need to be refigerated? Does it hurt to be refigerated? How sensitive is it to contamination (it's stored in a foam container with plastic lid)? 2) Does it make much difference how much water is used in the wort considering that I'll be adding the wort to water anyways? Obviously I'm not going to try and boil syrup; I'll probably add about 1.5 gallon water - my concern is how do I make sure that I don't put too much water in the carboy, and then not have enough room in the carboy for all of the wort. 3) I know that fermenting is sensitive to temperature, but how senstive? My basement seems to be about 58 degrees F. Is this too cold? What about right after after bottling? What about storage? 4) How do I get a hydrometer sample out of the carboy? siphon? Should I worry about SG for my first batch, or should I just let it blow a couple days and then let it ferment a couple weeks? Thanks in advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 13:05:09 -0500 (CDT) From: EVERSTEN at VAX2.Winona.MSUS.EDU Subject: be published I am a new boy to this hobby, actually, I haven't even started yet. I am however, an emense fan of fine beer. After having lived in Germany it is hard to find a beer in the U.S. that fits my tastes and imports are often unfresh. I have three questions: 1) Is it possible to brew a fine beer at home (up to my european standards)? 2) How much would a good kit cost? What would be best for my desires? 3) Where do I purchase supplies? Do you have any mail order addresses? I hope to hear form someone out there. Until then................ Zum Woll, Tad eversten at vax2.winona.msus.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 14:03:07 EST From: David Frazier <frazier at msuacad.morehead-st.edu> Subject: First Batch Paranoia After reading this digest for a while, I finally have summoned enough courage to start my first batch. I am using a M&F premium kit to which I have added (per the instructions) 1.5 lbs of Amber DME. I boiled 2 gallons of wort, then added cold water up to 5 gallons in the fermentor. After cooling I added to supplied yeast by sprinkling on top and stiring. The OG was 46. I ptiched the yeast at 9pm, and by the next morning, it was really bubbling. Vigorous fermentation continued for 2 days then slowed down. I tookn SG reading 4 days into the the ferment I took an SG reading that read a little over 20. This beer should have a FG of 10. 2 days later the SG is right at 20. Is this beer stuck? It is still very dark (it is supposed to be an amber ale). There is some gunk stuck on the sides of the fermenter (It is a plastic bucket with an air lock on top). Is this yeast, and if so does it need to be reincorporated into the wort. I assume it got there when the krasen (sp?) died down. If the beer stays at 20, will it be drinkable? Any help to these paranoid rantings will be greatly appreciated. By the way, if you are every in Louisville, stop at the Silo, a nice brewpub that I visited last month. David Frazier Morehead State University frazier at msuacad.morehead-st.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 14:34:08 EST From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: canning wort There were a couple of posts in today's digest about canning wort for use in starters so I suppose this is of general interest: 1. "Hot water" canning should be sufficient. I followed the directions Miller gives in "The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing" and it worked quite well. 2. The wort did not need to be refrigerated. I kept the jars of starter in the basement for up to a year and they worked fine. - -- Jim Grady grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 1994 14:39:36 -0500 (EST) From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: WAte? Yes! Wate = water. It was a typo but I figured most would understand. By the way that's Kligerman, not Klingerman! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 13:33:43 MST From: birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland) Subject: Testing conventional brewing wisdom The discussion of hop utilization that has appeared here is another example of a subject where a little science could go a long way. There are numerous other examples: The effect of primary blowoff on flavor. The effect of racking beer off the hot/cold break. Effects of oxygenation and pitching rates on FG and fermentation times etc... It seems to me that well designed experiments could provide quantitative results in the above areas that would be of use to many homebrewers. I appreciate that the experiments would have to take into account quite a large number of factors, e.g. boil vigor, fermentor geometry, water chemistry, etc.... I suspect that existing research aimed at commercial brewing is not applicable because of the huge scale difference and also because of differing goals of commercial and home brewing. What is needed is research directed specifically towards home and other very small scale breweries. I know of a few brewers who have performed experiments like this, but usually the scope of their work is too narrow, not extensive enough, not well controlled, or poorly documented. It seems to me the AHA could fund work like this. The cash outlay would be minimal and the results could be very beneficial. Maybe they could take time out from printing Charlie Papazian masks and "I wish this were my homebrew" coffee mugs. Naah, what was I thinking? Joel Birkeland Motorola SPS Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 15:55:27 PST From: mont at ibmmail.COM Subject: Homebrew healthier then store bought?? I use to make my own beer years ago, and recently my interest in doing so has been rekindled, mostly due to this mailing list. Before I go and spend a lot of money on equipment though, I need to find out something. In the last few years I've been getting headaches from drinking store bought beer (even one bottle). I wonder if this could be because I've become more sensitive in some way to chemicals that might be added to the beer or an allergic reaction to the beer itself. Do manufactured beers have chemicals and/or perfumes added to them that could be causing my headaches? Are there certain kinds of hops or malts that people tend to have less allergic reactions to? What would be some good simple recipes to try? (example: light on hops and/or lighter flavors of malts). I've recently switch from store bought wine to homemade wine because of the sulfites always added to store bought. This year I bought a 50 gal. oak barrel and bought Zinfandel juice from a winery in Lodi, CA. Made a nice wine completely chemical free. No more headaches from sulfite!! Hope I can do the same with beer... Thanks, Mont. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 16:37:45 MST From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Wort Gravity vs. Hop Utilization Mark Garetz restates his position that boil gravity does not affect alpha acid utilization. I remain open-minded about it all, but will offer something to think about. Most homebrewers report that when they go to full-volume boils, the beer became overhopped. This was certainly true with me, although at the time I didn't know what an IBU was. I assumed that the lower boil gravity (remember that the fermentation gravity didn't change) was the reason. As most things here in the HBD, this is not scientific data, but anecdotal evidence. It is also a small set of data (I know a little about the importance of sample size). Also, the point about the iso-alpha acids oxidizing in the head has me a little confused. We've been told forever that one of the affects of fermentation is to push out the oxygen in the headspace of the fermenter. I wouldn't expect much oxygen to be in the headspace for this process to happen. Am I off? I could see this happening more in an open fermenter, which are still used commercially in places. Perhaps the research was based on this type of fermenter. Norm npyle at n33.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 94 22:48:40 EST From: kaltenbach at aol.com Subject: Last call for contest entries It's not too late to enter the AHA-sanctioned UNYHA 16th Annual Competition! It's a great chance to get some credit for brewing great beer! Prizes and high-quality certificates are awarded to 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place winners. Best of show prize is a complete home kegging system! Send in those entries! _______________________________________________________________________ Upstate New York Homebrewers Association 16th Annual Competition and 5th Empire State Open Saturday, April 16, 1994 McGinnity's Restaurant and Party House 534 West Ridge Road Rochester, New York Doors open at 6 PM -- Judging begins at 7 PM Admission: $5.00 Come & join the fun! Enjoy complimentary samples of homebrew! _______________________________________________________________________ 12 HOMEBREW STYLES WILL BE JUDGED: British Ale Light Lager Porter North American Ale Amber Lager Stout Brown Ale Dark Lager Specialty Belgian Looks Like "Saranac Black & Tan" Mead No entries will be accepted after April 6. Contest entries may be entered at homebrew shops in Rochester, Buffalo, Syracuse, Utica, Ithaca, Binghamton, and the Hudson Valley -or- they may be shipped. Send email request to address below for more information. Prizes: * Prizes are awarded for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd places in all categories * For all categories (except Looks Like): Malt extract or other brewing supplies * For Looks Like "Saranac Black & Tan": Prizes awarded by F.X. Matt's Brewery Prizes For Best of Show: 1st Prize -- Complete home kegging system from ADM Amalgamation 2nd Prize -- $50 gift certificate for homebrew supplies from The Wine Press & Hops 3rd Prize -- $25 gift certificate for homebrew supplies from Cottage Brewing (All categories except Mead and Looks Like "Saranac Black & Tan" compete for best of show.) Drawing for a gift certificate from Rohrbach Brewing Company included in admission; there will be chances to win other beer-related prizes. We'll provide free snacks & samples of homebrew. *** Contest Sanctioned by the American Homebrewers Association *** For more info about our competition, or about the BJCP exam being held on Friday, April 15, contact me at the address below: Tom Kaltenbach Member, Upstate New York Homebrewers Association Rochester, New York, USA Internet: kaltenbach at aol.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1372, 03/15/94