HOMEBREW Digest #1403 Wed 20 April 1994

Digest #1402 Digest #1404

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Ammonia?! (Jason Sloan)
  Receipes Wanted. (Rnarvaez)
  Drawing Wort (John McCauley)
  Beer Across America (David Brewer)
  Re:  Williams (Wyeast) Yeast ("Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616")
  B.O.S.S. Results (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132)
  FACTS PLEASE (Jack Schmidling)
  cheap airstone (btalk)
  Re: Bottling foamy lagers (Summary) (Bill Szymczak)
  All-grain set up costs (19-Apr-1994 0903 -0400)
  Are garbage bags/containers foodgrade? ("Klaus Vogel")
  Re: Moss (Jeff Frane)
  Hop Production (Jeff Frane)
  Starting all-grain (Rich Larsen)
  subscription ("Shawn M. Gaskill")
  Old Fridge. ("Steven E. Matkoski")
  Mashing Crystal (npyle)
  grain cracking (crushing) (Scott McLagan)
  Steel Cut Oats? (Roland Bassett)
  Grolsch bottles (Jim Grady)
  Brass / Zima (Robert H. Reed)
  brewpubs/micros in Wash. D.C. & kegging system (Jeffrey A. Ziehler)
  extract vs all grain, TB BEERS? (fudgemastr)
  Barrier Zips? (npyle)
  Re:  Cost results and Cooler question... ("Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616")
  Notes on a London Beer Hunt ("CANNON_TOM")
  Carpils/Mashout by adding hot water/tapping your chest/Kazakhstan (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Beginner Recipe (Rich Larsen)
  Enamel on steel pots ("Glenace L. Melton")
  Re:  hoptech ? ("Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616")
  Watney's Red Barrel Recipe (Timothy Sixberry)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 18 Apr 1994 20:42:40 -0400 From: aa3625 at freenet.lorain.oberlin.edu (Jason Sloan) Subject: Ammonia?! Well, it goes like this: A friend and I sampled a little too much of the product one night and decided to cook something up. We added a can of cheap light malt, a pound of honey, and a gallon of H2O to a kettle. We boiled this for awhile and then added 1/2 tsp IM and 1/4 tsp fresh ground cinnamon. We boiled some more and then removed from the fire and added another 1/4 tsp cinnamon. We brought up to 5 gal in a clean fermenter (bleach sanitized) and pitched a rehydrated packet of yeast (included with the malt). We unfortunately ran into a problem of some sort. The airlock never seemed to start going, even after a couple of days. We got a bit impatient and looked under the lid and it sure looked like it had been fermenting so we decided to rack to a primary for the sheer unadulterated Hell of it. My partner decided to see what the stuff in the primary smelled like, and afterwards he was compelled to go reeling across the room. Being the quick thinker that I am , I decided that I would sniff of it too. Yes, I too went reeling. This stuff smelled like lab grade ammonia, so we dumped it down the sewer drain in front of his house (probably destroying a thriving sewer ecosystem in the process, oh well). So tell me, am I right to assume that this is an ammonia- producing bacterial infection, or is my friend right, and cinnamon is a pretty silly thing to throw into wort when you don't have a recipe. Please let me know if I can start throwing cinnamon and honey into batches again. If this makes for a bad combination, I'd appreciate that information too. Thanks! P.S. Yes, we did keep better records of our procedures than I'm indicating, I just don't have them with me. I somehow talked him into keeping all of the smelly and explosive things at his place. P.P.S. Should we keep the recipe and go into business with a chemical company? :) - -- Jason Sloan sloan01?jason at cc01.mssc.edu or aa3625 at freenet.lorain.oberlin.edu - ---Yo ho ho and a bucket of homebrew... Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 1994 15:06:26 -0500 From: Rnarvaez at lan.mcl.bdm.com Subject: Receipes Wanted. Hello all fellow home brewers. I am attempting to write a program which will catalog homebrew recipes and allow for the users to add and modify recipes. I would like to include some recipes in the program and I have a few of my own but would like to get some more. All recipes that are included in the program will have the name of the person(s) who have submitted it and will be kept in its original format. If you would like to help me out please Email me your favorite recipe at RNarvaez at lan.mcl.bdm.com Thanks. Don't take life too seriously, it isn't a permanent thing. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 1994 23:40:14 From: john.mccauley at his.com (John McCauley) Subject: Drawing Wort I have discovered a method of drawing wort from fermenters for specific gravity checks requiring almost nil air contact. A typical three piece air lock provides too small an opening for things like basters. Physicians, however, seem to have no problems getting liquids out of small openings. So I asked my sister, a physician, for ideas. She provided me with a 60cc syringe and a 65cm catheter tube (both were past their expiration date and were to be disposed of anyway). Slice off the last inch or two of the catheter, slide it through the air lock and draw your wort. I realize that you will need a friend in the health care industry to find this stuff, but if you have one this is a great method. Note that I don't encourage the pilfering of hospital supplies, but if the gear is expired and would be destroyed anyway, what's the harm? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 94 20:59:07 -0700 From: David Brewer <dbrewer at eastlake.nwest.mccaw.com> Subject: Beer Across America I saw a recent post that mentioned something called Beer Across America. Could anyone who is in the know please email me concerning this and any similar programs? Thanks, you may find yourself in my will ;). Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 7:20:52 EDT From: "Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Re: Williams (Wyeast) Yeast Question 1: its more profitable for them to package and sell the kit than to have you hunt down the ingredients yourself. It also guarantees that all the ingredients will come from one source -them. Question 2: 1098 British Ale (1 st. guess) 1028 London Ale (2nd. guess) Do I win a maltmill??? (just kidding :) ) Glen Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Apr 94 12:20:00 GMT From: mlm01 at intgp1.att.com (Michael L Montgomery +1 708 979 4132) Subject: B.O.S.S. Results B.O.S.S. Challenge '94 Below are the results from the B.O.S.S. Challenge'94 that was held on March 26 in Lockport, IL. There were 120 entries to which 57 ribbons were awarded. The results were as follows: German Ales American Ales - ----------- ------------- Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society Andrew Fineberg - Seattle S.S. Brewers Bill Siel - Bidal Society of Kenosha Andrew Fineberg - Seattle S.S. Brewers Bill Siel - Bidal Society of Kenosha Mike Sellman - Chicago Beer Society Pale American Lagers English Pale Ales - -------------------- ----------------- Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society Andrew Fineberg - Seattle S.S. Brewers Jay Schmid - Club Wort Dave & Melinda Brockington S.S.S. Brwrs Brian & Linda North - Beer Barons/Milw. Mike Montgomery - Urban Knaves Of Grain German Wheat Herb/Spice - -------------- --------------- Thomas Stolfi - Bidal Society/Konosha Mike Pezan - B.O.S.S. John Walaszek - Chicago Beer Society John Walaszek - Chicago Beer Society Tom Manteufel Brown Ales - ------------- Belgian Ales Steve Williams - B.O.S.S. --------------- Thomas Stolfi - Bidal Society/Konosha Dave Norton - Bidal Society/Konosha David Schoemaker- Club Wort Dave Norton - Bidal Society/Konosha Tony Babinec - Chicago Beer Society Porter - ------------ Barley Wines Andrew Fineberg - Seattle S.S. Brewers ---------------- Marvin Crippen - Seattle S.S. Brewers Brian & Linda North - Beer Barons/Milw. John Walaszek - Chicago Beer Society Al Korzonas - B.O.S.S. Len Bergonia - B.O.S.S. Dark Lagers - ------------- Stout Rob Reed - Bull & Stump Brew Club ----------------- Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society Al Korzonas - B.O.S.S. Al Korzonas - B.O.S.S. Amber Lagers Gary Hauser - B.O.S.S. - ------------- Chuck Taylor - Urban Knaves Of Grain Bitters/Scottish Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society --------------------- George Fix - North Texas Homebrewers Thomas Stolfi - Bidal Society/Konosha John Walaszek - Chicago Beer Society Pilsners & Pale Lagers John Dalton - B.O.S.S. - ---------------------- Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society Specialty/Fruit Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society ---------------- Mike Hansen David Schoemaker- Club Wort Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society Mead Dave Norton - Bidal Society/Konosha - ---------------------- Rob Reed - Bull & Stump Brew Club Smoked Beers Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society ------------------ Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society Strong Ales David Schoemaker- Club Wort - ------------------------ John Dalton - B.O.S.S. Ray Daniels - Chicago Beer Society Gary Hauser - B.O.S.S. John Dalton - B.O.S.S. BEST OF SHOW ------------ First - Thomas Stolfi - Ordinary Bitter Second - David Schoemaker - Whiskey Stout Third - Ray Daniels - Cream Ale Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 08:00 CDT From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: FACTS PLEASE >From: Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR at conrad.appstate.edu> >Did I leave out anything important here? As a matter of fact, YES. You left out the answer to my question and substituted another lecture on water chemistry quoted from several well known publications. Nowhere in the material cited did I see the word "wildly" with reference to variations in extract yield as a function of municipalities mucking around with the water. At this point in time, I have lost interest in the answer but if you wish to try again.... you stated that day to day changes in your city's water chemistry/biology caused "widely varying changes in extract yield". As those are your words and not a citation from a book, I asked you to put some numbers on the range, based on your experience. What I expected was for you to say something like... we got a yield of 33 points one day and 18 the next or perhaps just that it varried by 10 or 40 per cent from day to day and the only variable was the water supply which we checked and found to have varied as follows..... etc. All I get are lectures on chemistry and diplomacy ad nausiam. As Joe Friday used to say.... "just the facts please". Just for the record, it was you who called me a liar and fraud when I reported to have sold 100 MALTMILLS and gave one away to show my appreciation to the net.folk. As a result, I have felt totally at liberty to keep you honest ever since. If you wish to apologize for your rash statement, I am more than willing to get out of your hair. js Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 09:07:24 EDT From: btalk at aol.com Subject: cheap airstone I found an airstone substitute that is essentially a 2 inch long piece of light blue tubing with a zillion holes poked in it, plugged at one end and some sort of fitting to connect to air pump tubing. I removed the fitting and stuck the perf tubing into the end of my plastic racking cane. Ohterwise the thing would float to the top on my carboy! Just don't stir too vigorously, or else the aerator may fall out of the racking cane! i sanitize w/chlorine solution, rinse well,etc. Seems to be easier to rinse than airstone.Plus their are cheap. I got some sort of disc shaped air filter from a respiratory health supply place for $3.00. regards, Bob Talkiewicz <btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 09:15:52 EDT From: bszymcz%ulysses at relay.nswc.navy.mil (Bill Szymczak) Subject: Re: Bottling foamy lagers (Summary) In summary on the problem I was having with bottling lagers with a lot of foam: (I only had 2 responses but they were in agreement.) The solution is to simply leave the lagers out overnight to stabilize at room temperature before bottling. At colder temperatures the beer can contain a lot more dissolved gas (it can't hold any at boiling temperatures) which will escape (foam) as the beer is warmed up while bottling. It should have been obvious to me as I've done some cavitating at work, but I guess I had to see it to really believe it. >From: jeff_sargent at il.us.swissbank.com (Jeff Sargent) >Subject: r.e. Subject: Bottling foamy lagers >I just bottled a Weissbeer last week, that had been in a secondary >for about a week -- and had the exact same problem, though not to >that extent. In fact I was also using a bottling bucket w/spigot, >a short length of tubing, and a phils philler. >I am still not sure how the foam was being produced -- although I am >starting to think the phils philler may be responsible. It is nice >to use and leaves little headspace, but it may be aerating the beer. >I haven't had that much experience with the old spring-loaded fillers >to say for sure. I think that unless your secondary fermentation temperature was lower than room temperature, or your bottles were warm, your foaming may have been caused by a combination of too much splashing at the beginning of filling and the extra proteins in your Weissbeer. I've used both types of fillers, and found that with each the splashing (and foaming) can be reduced by starting off very slowly. If anything, the phils filler has produced less foam and I've had no problems with bottling other ales. Bill Szymczak bszymcz at ulysses.nswc.navy.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 09:11:03 EDT From: 19-Apr-1994 0903 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> Subject: All-grain set up costs An all-grain set up doesn't need to cost a ton of money. With a little bit of scrounging around, you can do it for less than $100. Here were my costs: - king kooker stove, 200k BTU, used $ 20.00 - propane tank free (i volunteer at the local dump) $ 0.00 - 20lb propane $ 8.00 - 2 buckets for lauter-tun (friend works w/ mass amts of food) $ 0.00 - 50ft wort chiller, i bought the parts and made it myself $ 29.00 - 15.5 gallon converted sankey keg with spigot $ 45.00 - old coleman cooler for mashing $ 0.00 ------- $ 94.00 I get more enjoyment out of all-grain than I do extract: that right there is worth the price of the equipment. Just look around, scam things one at a time, and next thing ya know, you're ready to roll. I still need to get a Gott cooler or perhaps another sankey keg for mashtun. JC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 09:33:50 EDT From: "Klaus Vogel" <VOGEL at net2.eos.uoguelph.ca> Subject: Are garbage bags/containers foodgrade? I hope someone out there can answer a question that has bothered me for years.I currently use standard garbage bags to cover my primary fermenter.This cover of course contacts the wort.Is this safe?I have shopped around for different brands and some say "Not for storage of food" but I have never found any that claim to be safe for food storage.If I establish the safety issue,I plan on using garbage bags as a liner for my primary fermenter as this would guarantee sterility and minimize clean-up time. Years ago I purchased a rubbermaid roughneck garbage container to use as a primary fermenter for a batch of cider myself and a friend were making.Before using it I became concerned about whether the garbage container was safe for food storage and I ended up not using it.It is still stored in my basement unused.So my second question is,is this garbage container safe to use as a fermenter and if not,where can I get a safe liner? And continuing along the line of the safety/health issue, I recently read an article on use of chlorine.Apparently chlorine can form a wide array of potentially hazardous compouds most of which have not even been identified yet.As well,a recent study indicates that chlorine use since the early 50's has resulted in a 50% reduction in sperm count.Not a good thing even if you are not planning to have more kids.My question is ,How long do I have to boil water to completely get rid of the chlorine?Will boiling eliminate the hazardous compounds formed by the interaction of chlorine and other substances? Sincerely,Klaus Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 06:34:19 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Re: Moss Note to all: simply because Jack has promoted me to Oracle 2 does not mean I do not know the difference between Irish and Spanish Moss. I do *not* know who stuck the Irish with this confused label, but I do know that one grows in the garden and the other in the sea. For those who may have missed the boat, however: Irish Moss is made from processed seaweed. As such, it is algae (probably phaeophitae, if my memory is of any use at all -- and no points on correcting my spelling). I do not know what Jack has succeeded in doing by adding real moss to his beer, but I'm sure we are at the birth of a new legend. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 06:43:44 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Hop Production Anyone care to make an educated guess as to the highest production variety in each of the following categories, here in the U.S.?: Aroma Hops: Middle Alpha Varieties: High Alpha Varieties: Answers coming soon. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 08:43:23 -0500 (CDT) From: Rich Larsen <richl at access1.speedway.net> Subject: Starting all-grain All the discussion on all grain conversion and cost to do so has prompted me to respond. High cost of extra equipment? Hogwash When I started mashing, I didn't buy any extra equipment. Sure I've added some gadgets along the way, but these can and should be used in extract brewing as well. I.E. An immersion chiller. If you want to keep your cost down on equipment, use a little ingenuity to beg, borrow, or steal what you need. Also shop around. I have a 24 quart canning pot that I purchased from the local grocery store for $15.00. This would be fine for average gravity range mashes. 1.030-1.060. For higher gravities, you can make less beer. To mash around 20+ pounds of grain, I was forced to by a larger pot. (8.5 gallon for $29.00) If you need buckets, check with donut shops and see if they have any 5 gallon buckets kicking around. These buckets usually contained things like egg yolks or fruit fillings. Avoid the pickle buckets from fast food joints, the vinegar/spices may leave an off flavor in your beer... (hmmm... do I detect a bit of dill in this pilsner? Not in style, I would think) Anyway, I mash on the stove top, in the brewpot. I bring the temp up with hot water initially, and check and adjust every 20 minutes or so. If you want to check less, you can place it in the insulated box already in your kitchen. The oven. Just leave the heat off and it will hold the temp for at least 60 minutes. This is a bit of a pain to move the full pot from stove to the oven, thats why I do it all on the stove top. For a lauter tun, take one of the buckets, or an old plastic fermenter that is too scratched for fermenting, drill a hole in the side large enough to accept a 6 1/2 rubber stopper (I'm sure you have one of these laying around) insert a piece of siphon hose through the hole (got that too huh?) Place a hose clamp on the hose, and rubber band a copper or stainless chore boy(tm) ($1.00 for two?) to the end of the hose inside the tun. (Cheap EasyMasher(t(tm)m(tm))) An option is to insulate the tun, and it usualy helps prevent stuck run-offs on higher gravity mashes. An R-22 mylar/bubble wrap insulation can be bought from the hardware store, or I suspect a couple of layers of packaging bubble wrap (scrounged from work) will work as well. Transfer the mash to the tun, cover, and clean out the brewpot. Use beer pitchers to recirculate the run-off. When you feel you've recirculated enough, let the run-off go right to the brewpot. IWFM => Rich Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514 The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL (Not a commercial establishment) "I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 10:07:49 -0400 (EDT) From: "Shawn M. Gaskill" <gaskill at WPI.EDU> Subject: subscription Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 10:00:19 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven E. Matkoski" <sematkos at syr.edu> Subject: Old Fridge. I have an old refridge in my garage and several people have told me it is an antique. I want to fix it and use it for my brew, I dont keg yet but will someday soon. The problem isnt really brew related but I thought I would ask to see if anyone else has done it. The lines for the freezer have been split, so I want to remove the freezer section (just a couple ice cube tray holders) and reseal the lines. How does one do this? How do I remove the thermostat for the freezer? I dont want to butcher the thing because it is in good shape. Any ideas? Thanks! -steve. ... reach out your hand if your cup be empty, sematkos at syr.edu if your cup be full may it be again. -Ripple GD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 9:39:37 MDT From: npyle at n33.ecae.stortek.com Subject: Mashing Crystal Bill H. writes: >...... She said, when you think about it, specialties such as crystal >have already been mashed in the grain and the only thing left is >unfermentables; therefore, being thrown in with the mash really can't do >much more to them................................................... This isn't logical. The mash contains enzymes which work to break down starches into fermentable and unfermentable sugars. The longer the enzymes are allowed to work, the more fermentable sugars (smaller sugars) are produced as the enzymes chop away (remember Charlie's picture of the little lumberjacks?). I can't see how the unfermentable sugars in crystal malt are immune to this enzymatic activity in the mash. Cheers, Norm = npyle at n33.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 10:14:01 -0700 From: smclagan at schdist43.bc.ca (Scott McLagan) Subject: grain cracking (crushing) Greetings Brewmeisters, I've been adding specialty grains to an extract brew but haven't acquired a good technique for cracking the grain before cooking. The guy at the supply store told be to use a rolling pin but I gave up after squirting grain all over the kitchen. Then I tried a quick 3-second burst in my coffee grinder. This works fairly well, but inevitably pulverizes the grain which results in a slight 'husky' taste. I would appreciate your suggestions for grain cracking. Please mail to me and I'll draft a quick summary for the digest. Cheers, Scott McLagan (smclagan at schdist43.bc.ca) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 13:23:20 EDT From: rolando at galileo.harvard.edu (Roland Bassett) Subject: Steel Cut Oats? I have a question. I want to make an oatmeal stout, and several of the recipes that I've seen call for steel cut oats. What are these? Are Quaker oats good enough, or is this a stupid question? Email or posts welcome. Thanks a lot! RLB - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Roland Bassett | Roland's rules on baseball: (rolando at sdac.harvard.edu) | 1) Always root for the CUBS SDAC | 2) Always root against the mets Harvard School of Public Health | 3) Always root for the National League 617-432-0040 | except when this conflicts with rule 2 - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 13:26:06 EDT From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: Grolsch bottles Norm writes: > is early, but you have less to worry about than you might think. If the > bottles are truly "similar to Grolsch" then I would venture to say you will > not have bottle bombs. The Grolsch bottles are especially thick and the > rubber seal at the top will give up before the glass. The other thing you I had a Grolsch bottle go before the rubber seal. I was making root beer so it was not nearly as controlled as making beer but it was the glass that went, not the stopper. - -- Jim Grady grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 10:30:24 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: Sugar and Acid content (by weight) of many fruits. The following is copied direct and *without* permission from "The Curious Cook" by Harold McGee. The data comes from a chapter on how to make fruit ices, but I think that the information could be of interest to zymologists of all persuasions, although it may be more appropriate for those looking for balance in sugar and acid content for mead or wine making. Fruit Sugar Content Acid Content %of fresh weight %of fresh weight Lime 1% 5.0% Avocado 1 0.2 Lemon 2 5.0 Tomato 3 0.5 Cranberry 4 3.0 Red Currant 6 1.8 Grapefruit 6 2.0 Guava 7 0.4 Cantaloupe 7 0.2 Strawberry 7 1.6 Raspberry 7 1.6 Blackberry 8 1.5 Papaya 8 0.1 Apricot 9 1.7 Watermelon 9 0.2 Peach 9 0.4 Black Currant 10 3.2 Pear 10 0.1 Honeydew 10 0.2 Orange 11 1.2 Plum 11 0.6 Blueberry 11 0.3 Gooseberry 11 1.8 Passion Fruit 11 3.0 Prickly Pear 11 0.1 Mango 11 0.5 Pineapple 13 1.1 Pomegranate 13 1.2 Apple 13 0.8 Cherry 14 0.5 Kiwi 14 3.0 Persimmon 14 0.2 Fig 15 0.4 Grape 16 0.2 Banana 17 0.3 Litchi 17 0.3 Other information gleaned out of this book: If you need to quickly chill liquids for drinking, he ran the following experiments and got the following results: Time to chill wine (in bottles) at 70-75 degrees F to a temperature of 50 degrees F took 2 hours to chill in a refridgerator took 45 minutes to chill in a freezer (30 minutes to chill to 55 deg) took 20 minutes chilled in an ice bath (due to better heat transfer between water and glass) (also no danger of over-cooling) Time to chill a bottle of beer at 70-75 degrees F to a temperature of 45 degrees F took 3 hours to chill in a refridgerator took 40 minutes to chill in a freezer took 25 minutes chilled in an ice bath (due to better heat transfer between water and glass) (also no danger of over-cooling) Time to chill a can of beer at 70-75 degrees F to a temperature of 45 degrees F took 3 hours to chill in a refridgerator took 30 minutes to chill in a freezer took 15 minutes chilled in an ice bath (due to better heat transfer between water and alum.) (also no danger of over-cooling) If you're really in a hurry, he ran the experiment using a salt brine and ice solution. He chilled the can of beer from room temperature to 45 degrees in 8 minutes, and to 38 degrees in 20 minutes. Sorry, no information on time to reach celler temperatures for the warm beer fans... Finally, beer poured into a frosted glass got *colder* at first, so it was the same temperature in the glass 15 minutes after it was poured as it was when it was first poured! Rich Webb ************************************************ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 12:41:19 -0500 (CDT) From: Robert H. Reed <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com> Subject: Brass / Zima Paddy writes: > I just heard this morning (4/17/94) that there is a problem with well > water pumps with brass equipment. Apparently, the brass leaks (?) > high levels of lead. If brass can leak lead into water, what about > wort? I have notices several methods of modifying kettles using brass > fixtures. Is the use of brass for brewing now in question? > I heard this same news item and my understanding was several pump manufacturing companies were using lead solder to assemble their pumps. I don't think the brass (copper + zinc) components were a problem, but the lead based solder used in their manufacture. <snip> > I saw a tv ad for Zimma over the weekend. The narrator ask what would > you drink if there was no beer? Scotch... Well, it sure as hell wouldn't be > Zimma. The best description I could give of the taste of Zimma is > lemon flavored Alka-Selter (sp?). This makes it suitable to settle your stomach after an evening session of Barley Wine. Rob Reed Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 12:44:29 CDT From: Jeffrey A. Ziehler <ziehler at post.its.mcw.edu> Subject: brewpubs/micros in Wash. D.C. & kegging system Hey hbd'ers, I am going to be in Washington D.C. for the American Society for Biochemistry and Molecular Biology meeting in May and was wondering about good brewpubs/micros in the D.C./Georgetown area preferably around downtown (near the Washington Convention Center) or perhaps with easy Metro access. I'll be there from May 21-25 at the ASBMB meeting so if you happen to be around, stop by my poster (Sunday 12:15-2pm, session 23, program #288, board #F23 at the Washington Convention Center Exhibit Hall). I'm a graduate student working on protein synthesis in our favorite unicellular eukaryote, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae. private E-mail is fine, or post. Also, does anyone know were I can mail order a kegging system cheaply? Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 14:09:33 EDT From: fudgemastr at aol.com Subject: extract vs all grain, TB BEERS? I haven't gotten around to purchasing an 8 gallon brew pot yet. I wanted to see if I would like it. So what I did was brewed a double brew. Yes it took forever (about 8 hours) but it was fun, and I got to see if I really liked it and if the equipment I bought was really going to work. This is what I bought. A propane bruner (Cajun Cooker) 135,000 BTU, it cost me $59. (and it came with a groovy pot and frying basket that's great for deep frying chicken) a Picnic cooler, 5 gallons Gott. $20. I use a sparge bag to keep the grains up. I cut the bottom out of a 5 gal plastic bucket (food grade) that I stole from behind a local Italian restaurant, cut slits in it from the sides to the center about every 1.5 in in circumfrence to let the wort drain out. This plastic disc goes on the bottom of the cooler and keeps the sparge bag off of the drain valve in the cooler. Sorta like a false bottom if you would. A coffee maker, $2 at a thrift shop. I read in an earlier HBD about someone who tweeked a coffee maker to put out 172 degree water. Well, this one does anyway, so no tweeking was needed. It's made by Melitta, model ACM-10M/4, but the fact that it's 900 watts is probably the most important factor. I just hang it on the cooler with the spout hanging over the top, and pour water into the reservor as it empties. I measure the water out first. I use I two litre plastic bottles (about 2 bucks for both) to chill my brew it the brew pot. Empty it, and pull off the bottom piece so nasties can't get in there, fill it with water and freeze it the night before (careful not to overfill). Then I drop it into the boiling brew at the end of boil to chill the brew, yes I sterilize it first, though I am dropping it into boiling brew, so just making sure the outside is clean it probably good enuf. After about 15 - 20 minutes, the wort is good to pitch. That was all I needed to go all grain. I cut the recipe that I was using in half, and brewed twice to fill up my carboy. It was great, now I'm going to have a keg party, keep the keg, and have a brew kettle for about $10. Fudgemastr at AOL.COM P.S. I am trying to get into contact with the Tampa Bay B.E.E.R.S. anyone out there a BEER? Please give me a number (voice) where I can reach you. brewing is a profession, hobby, sport. Well two out of three ain't bad. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 12:11:50 MDT From: npyle at n33.ecae.stortek.com Subject: Barrier Zips? In the Hop Source catalog, oxygen barrier zip-lock bags are mentioned. Does anyone know where I might find such a beast? They sure would be great for storing hops (and even specialty grains), and would obviate the need for a home sealer. Cheers, Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 14:50:29 EDT From: "Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Re: Cost results and Cooler question... If I had it all over again, I would go with the Gott 10 gallon "Tower of Power". I am currently using a rectangular 48 qrt. thermos square cooler that in fact was one of the few surviving pieces of equipment from the "great canoe mishap ('nough said!). I use a 1/2 inch 6 foot copper manifold (R-type copper) that has 1/4" slots on the underneath (ala hacksaw). I feel that the use of slots rather than holes has so far prevented me from experiencing a stuck runoff (the last batch of weizzen was 66% wheat malt). All in all, good performance. The Gott (I believe...) would give a better yield due to the fact that it would have a smaller cross-sectional area to grain volume ratio (when full), forcing the sparge water to pass through more grain on its way through the grain bed, as compared to a rectangular setup. (Maybe not a higher yield, but less sparge or less water to boil off?) Another thought I had was that the Gott exposes less headspace and grain bed topside, and should loose less heat when opened for temp. checks or stirring during mashing. I don't usually have a problem when I do a single step infusion mash, but sometimes I find myself pulling a gallon or two for a decotion when I do the 2-step (with the rectangular) to hold temperature (I try to hold back as much water for the sparge rather than to waste it on heat add's). I too would like to hear people's comments on this, as the rectangular unit is getting close to terminal condition and will need replacement! Glen Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Apr 94 13:23:00 EST From: "CANNON_TOM" <CANNON_TOM at hq.navsea.navy.mil> Subject: Notes on a London Beer Hunt Message Creation Date was at 19-APR-1994 13:23:00 Andy Anderson and I are just back from a short beer hunting trip to the UK and Belgium. Here are a few notes which may be of interest to the HBD. The price of beer continues to rise. I lived in London for one year ('87-'88) and paid, on average, 1.10 pounds per pint. During my last trip in '92, we were paying about 1.55 pounds per pint, but this year, we were afforded the opportunity to finally have our first 2 pound pint (2.04 for a pint of Abbott Ale at The George in Southwark - you pay for your history). The average price in London is about 1.80, but the Wetherspoon chain still offers Youngers for 99p and there is one of their pubs conveniently located in Leicester Square (The Moon Under the Water). Brewery Tours: We were able to take in the Youngs tour, but couldn't get to Fullers due to timing. At Youngs, it is essential to call well in advance to reserve a spot. I wrote them three weeks before our trip and then called when we got there. Of course, they never saw the letter, and only through pleading (Andy's good at that) they were able to squeeze us in. The tour is a mixed bag. You spend way too much time looking at all the Youngs' horses, and the tour guides are not real knowledgeable, but they take you all over their brewery and you get to stick your nose in their open fermenters (we were shocked when one of the people in our tour group stuck his hand into the kreusen and the British Anti-terrorist Unit didn't shoot him on the spot :-)). They really seemed rather casual about open fermenter sanitation. I guess they just depend upon a strong kreusen-head and the fact the beer will be consumed within 3 weeks of brewing. The tour guides will also find a brewer for you to get questions answered. And you get as much fresh Youngs beer to drink as you want. I would recommend the tour, but plan on about 2.5 hours out of your pub crawling time. The Fullers tour is much more structured on time. They have tours available on Mondays and Wednesdays and 1:00 and Thursdays at 1:00 and 4:00. Good idea to call in advance. Fullers charges a nominal fee. Cellar Tours: A highly recommended tour is at the White Horse on Parsons Green where they go out of their way to provide cellar tours almost on demand. For those of you who have seen Michael Jackson's "The Beer Hunter" series, this is the pub in London where he also takes the viewer on a cellar tour. We walked into the pub on a very busy Friday night and got a tour without any problems. Their cellarmen are excellent and give a very nice discussion of the cellaring process. I should note that during my year in London in '87, the White Horse was one of my locals and was considered a Yuppie pub with a pretty dismal selection of beer. It has evolved in the past 7 years into a beer lovers paradise in South West London. 5 to 6 real ales (including Adnams ESB-Winner of last years GBBF). Also rotating specials. In March they had Anchor Porter on draft, and coming in May will be Budweiser Budvar. Finally, they have in bottles ALL of the trappist beers for about $5.50 a bottle. The trip has gotten me primed for trying cask conditioning home brew. Does anyone have any experience in real cask conditioning? I'm also very interested in acquiring a beer engine. Any sources would be greatly appreciated. Hope this was of interest. Tom Cannon DH Brewery Fairfax/Annandale VA Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Apr 94 18:00:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Carpils/Mashout by adding hot water/tapping your chest/Kazakhstan Todd writes: which grains to steep. Carapils is the one that one that generated the most confusion. Mike cites Miller as one of <snip> I too am looking for a final answer to the questions on this malt. Carapils is just a pale crystal (aka caramel) malt and *does not* have to be mashed. Really! ************ Rich writes: >of grain in water. After the starch has been converted, it >really doesn't matter how thick the mash is. Therefore >"mashing-out" can be accomplished by adding large quantities >of hot (sparge) water to the cooler/mash/lauter tun. The >liquid is then drained off while new, clear, hot water is >added on top. Yes, but depending on how thin your mash was to begin with and how much heat you lost during saccharification and depending on the size of your lauter tun, you: 1) may not be able to add enough boiling water to raise the temperature enough and 2) whatever amount water you use to raise the temperature you must take away from the water you had planned to sparge with (unless you have a huge kettle and don't mind the hours it will take to boil 10 gallons of runnings down to 5 gallons of wort). Batch sparging (the adding a lot of sparge water and then running off everything out of the lauter tun, repeatedly) is theoretically less efficient than a continuous sparge (in which you run off and sparge at the same time). Adding part of your sparge water at the beginning is similar to doing part of the lauter as a batch sparge and part as a continuous. I don't want to make it sound like this is a big deal... it's just theoretically slightly lower utilization -- there are a number of other factors that can give you much worse extract efficiency. >The idea is that the first runnings will >have the majority of the dissolved sugars, while subsequent >runnings will leech out the remaining sugars. Something >that confused me for a long time. The admonisition against >high temperatures during the sparge seems to be a reaction >of the pH and temperature environmental standards. As the >sugar content is reduced, the pH of the wort increases. >This, coupled with the increasing temperatures, begins >to leech out tannins from the grain husks. Thus is seems >that we are allowed to raise the temperature to anything >short of incandescence, as long as the pH remains low. Not quite... it's not the sugars that are keeping the pH low, rather it is compounds such as phytic acid and as this gets drained out of the tun and replaced by 7 or 8 or 9 pH water, the pH rises, beginning to cause problems with tannins. Before mashout (as in the case of decoctions) you can indeed boil parts of the mash with no problems, but once you are done with saccharification, you must make sure you do not gelatinize any more starch because there will be no enzymes to convert it. Therefore, at mashout, you should not let the mash get any higher than about 170F. ********* Glenn writes: >I am currently deciding where to place the taps on my chest freezer and am <snip> >the walls of the chest freezer (yet), does anyone have any warnings? Other than the obvious, make sure to seal the holes from both sides with some kind of gaskets or caulk to keep your insulation from absorbing moisture from the outside (making it very inefficient). ******** Jim asks about brewpubs in Novoalelseyevka, Kazakhstan. Aside from the Voskoteska and Kahzavona near the train station (which are excellent as always), rumour has it that brewmaster Edmjund Bronskovich has two beers on-line at the new Taloryensk Bravdasch Kompanya on 5th Avenue in the western suburb of Narpavilov. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 1994 14:15:29 -0500 (CDT) From: Rich Larsen <richl at access1.speedway.net> Subject: Beginner Recipe >I've done a number of test beers with very similar recipes as the >one I posted and have (with care) had minimal scorching. Not critisizing, but a begginer may not use the proper amount of care first time out. >I would recommend >against boiling 2.75 gallons of wort in a pot any smaller than 4 gallons. >My intent regarding the small boil were so that the wort would comfortably >fit in a pot of about 2.5- to 3-gallons, which is much more easily accessable >to beginners than larger kettles. The lack of a need for an oversized kettle >is important when trying to convince non-brewers to give homebrewing a try. >I'm just trying to minimize the expense of beginning brewing, that's all. I suppose if he doesn't have the proper equipment, then its worth a shot. If, on the other hand he does have a 20 qt canning pot available... >Regarding the addition of hops for aroma, that's a fine idea, but my intent >was to really make this simple. Also, if any hops *were* to be added at this >point in the boil, it's important to mention they should be "aroma" hops. Good point on the aroma hops. My thoughts were to give the first time brewer a feel for the fun of homebrewing and a good chance for making him say "WOW" on his first attempt. >Clusters... Yeah, I used those on my first batch... called it 'ol rubber hose ale (X-Q) => Rich Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514 The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL (Not a commercial establishment) "I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Apr 94 11:43:04 EDT From: "Glenace L. Melton" <71242.2275 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Enamel on steel pots Bob Bessette asked about the strength of a 33-qt enamel-on-steel pot. In one instance I was using an almost new 12 qt. pot full of cold water; one of the handles came off. The enamel concealed a faulty weld. I was fortunate in that the pot did not contain hot water or wort; the manufacturer (somewhere in the Midwest) replaced the pot under warranty. However, I would strongly urge that anyone buying any such pot to test the handles by trying to break them off. If you succeed, take it back and exchange it. [END] Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 15:34:44 EDT From: "Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Re: hoptech ? Hoptech is at 1(800) DRY-HOPS (disclaimer: satisfied customer, bla,bla) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 94 11:57:00 PDT From: Timothy Sixberry <tsixber at msrapid.kla.com> Subject: Watney's Red Barrel Recipe Hello Brewers, I looking for an all grain recipe for Watney's Red Barrel. I know someone out there must have it, cause it is Yummy !!!!!! Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1403, 04/20/94