HOMEBREW Digest #1417 Fri 06 May 1994

Digest #1416 Digest #1418

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Those damn boomerangs (chris campanelli)
  cheesy beer solution (Chuck Wettergreen)
  "Frankenbrau Cap" (tm) (Ronald B. Moucka)
  all-grain/liquid yeast questions (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
  Chemistry/Spices (Jeremy Warren)
  Re: spices (Eric A. Johnson)
  RE: A/B vs. SA ("McGaughey, Nial")
  Information request on food grade pumps (Timothy F. Corbett)
  CTSP info (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Silver solder, yet again (Joel Birkeland)
  Sugar & Acid contents of fruits (Jim Grady)
  Lead Again! (npyle)
  Caution: bottle washer in use. (Kent Bryan Porter)
  Re: Spices/light protection/newbies go gonzo ("Mark B. Alston")
  Searching for Microbreweries (MIKE ZEOLI)
  Wort Chiller conservation? Why not save it! (Mark Evans)
  There's (going to be) a hole in my bucket. (Allen Glass)
  Liberty Ale Recipes ("Robucci, Adam F.")
  Keg fittings (CCAC-LAD) <wboyle at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  Sanitizing filters/etc (Jim Busch)
  Beer or bread? ("Thomas Kavanagh, Curator")
  Storing Specialty Grains ("Little, David")
  Oatmeal Stout (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  BlackberryBrew/Large vessels (RON)
  priming sugars ... (Chris Lyons)
  Cereal mashing (Alan_Marshall)
  Harpoon IPA. (braddw)
  Re: CTSP vs Clorine & TSP (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Harpoon IPA. (braddw)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 4 May 94 08:52 CDT From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli) Subject: Those damn boomerangs Ok, lemme see if I've got this straight. For years homebrewers have been slamming AB, Miller & Coors products. AB comes out with an ad which takes a poke at homebrewers and the homebrewers are screaming bloody murder. Pick one of the following to best describe this situation: 1. It goes around, it comes around. 2. You can dish it out but you can't take it. 3. Hypocrasy and homebrewing are under H in the dictionary. 4. Get a life. Who cares. It's an advertisement! While I rarely drink the mass-produced products, I have an immense respect for what they do and how they do it. They consistently make a clean product, which is more than can be said for some micros and brewpubs. It should also be noted that most of the technical data that becomes available to homebrewers originates from research funded by the deep pockets of . . . guess who? chris campanelli Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 08:21:00 -0600 From: chuck.wettergreen at aquila.com (Chuck Wettergreen) Subject: cheesy beer solution The enigma of the cheesy beer has been solved. What I took for my own brand of cottage cheese is actually coagulated protein. A great number of folks wrote to say that they had experienced the same effects when using Wyeast 1056. Apparently my version of curds and whey was rather unspectacular compared to the descriptions supplied by some of the other cheese makers: brain-like said one, 2-3" thick said another. I believe that this particular batch of cheddar may have been exacerbated by the first-time use (in this particular style) of the current JS flame bait, Irish moss, aided by a less than vigorous boil. The best reply came from Jonathan Klay who said, "... a good yeast, just some disgusting habits." Many thanks to all who replied. Chuck Chuck.Wettergreen at Aquila.com * RM 1.3 00946 * Sometimes I wake up grouchy, sometimes I let her sleep. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 9:54:45 MDT From: rmoucka at lobo.rmh.pr1.k12.co.us (Ronald B. Moucka) Subject: "Frankenbrau Cap" (tm) Brew Buddies-- Many thanks to Frank Longmore for sharing his "Frankenbrau Cap" (tm) with the HBD. As a user of the commercially available Carbonator, which works great, I was most anxious to try out the Frankenbrau Cap. Reason? It's about one fourth the cost, and that's with stainless steel fittings. In case you're wondering, the Frankenbrau Cap is Frank's version of a PET bottle pressure adapter. I've managed to down enough Pepsi in 16oz bottles to have a few empties around and plan on pressurizing a few homebrews in them. I see it as the perfect solution for the bicycle picnics (no sediment, no broken glass, and no need for glasses). My question is how long should I keep homebrew in these bottles? Obviously, if beer held up well in these bottles, the big boys would have done this long ago. Will my brew take on a plastic taste? Anything toxic? I've never had any homebrew in a PET bottle for more than a week or so. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Private e-mail okay. TIA Ron Moucka Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 11:15 EDT From: CSS2 at OAS.PSU.EDU (SPEAKER.CURTIS) Subject: all-grain/liquid yeast questions Thanks to all of you for your input on my Rocky Racoon-sulfur smell question...I will let it bottle-age for at least a month (maybe 2 or 3 if I can be patient enough) and let you know how it turns out. After 7 successful batches of extract beer, I am considering trying an all-grainer, but I have a couple of questions... I don't have a mash-tun, lauter tun or wort chiller, but I do have a plan... I would like to mill up the grain and put it into a nylon sparge bag, steep in water for the appropriate times at the appropriate temps until the starches are converted, then proceed with adding hops, boiling the wort, etc. Why can't you sparge your boiled wort into 2-3 gallons of cold water like you do for an extract brew (yes, I realize that I'll have to use a lot of malt and other grains if I'm going to water the wort down at the end)??? I also have a chest freezer, and I could set the brewpot down inside of it (on top of a cardboard box to avoid damaging the freezer) and cool it down in a hurry that way. Any comments, caveats, etc. from you all-grain folks? I think the sparge bag is a reasonable way to avoid a mash-tun, etc. - a prof. here at Penn State does the same thing in a brewing segment of a food prep. course that he teaches... I'm also considering trying liquid yeast; I've had very good luck with rehydrated dry yeast (a bunch of different kinds), but I'm in an experimental sort of mood. I generally make ales, and with summer approaching, I'm not sure that even my basement is cool enough for a lager... What yeasts have people found to be the best? Which ones should I avoid (I've heard a lot of discussion about Wyeast #1056 lately)?? Anyone have a particular favorite for certain beer styles? Any and all advice is welcome; private email encouraged....Thanks Curt Speaker css2 at oas.psu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 12:36:43 -0400 (EDT) From: jwarren at mcs.capital.edu (Jeremy Warren) Subject: Chemistry/Spices As to your problem with pH, I can't see any problem with the pH, as long as the pH meter indicates a pH of around 6.8-7.4 in normal tap water, and doesn't fluctuate all over the place. As to the strange happenings with the brewing water, it could be that when you boiled it, you caused some deposition/ precipitation of carbonates in the water. Carbonates in the water tend to acidify it (In the manner of CO2), and this could explain your pH problem, If your tap water tends to be a little basic. What else, if any was present in the water when you boiled it? Odd things present in the water can definitely skew the pH. Jeremy Warren Return to table of contents
Date: Wednesday, 4 May 94 14:00:28 CST From: LLDSC at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu Subject: CZECH BEERS Allow me to gloat... I'm leaving next week for the Czech Republic. I'm flying into Frankfurt and then taking the train the heck out of there. I'll be stopping in Plsen, Ceske Budejovice, and Prague (just to name a few). Anybody know of any good pubs, places to stop, etc. (other than the breweries, of course). Any other tips would be helpful, also. E-mail me private if you don't think anyone wants to read this. I'll be gone for 3 weeks. PAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRTY!!!! LLDSC at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 15:33:21 -0400 From: eajohns at crsgi1.erenj.com (Eric A. Johnson) Subject: Re: spices > One article had a sidebar which listed all sorts of spices > that have been (commonly?) used in beer, such as allspice, > pepper, bay leaves, coriander, etc. etc. but no details. > What quantities are we talking here? A dash? An ounce? A I have used spices in a couple beers. I made a Belgian White beer in which I added about an ounce of freshly crushed coriander when racking to secondary. I would reduce the amount a bit if also adding orange peel. I made a spiced holiday ale in which I added the zest of 2 oranges, 1.25 oz. grated ginger, 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon and 1 tablespoon ground nutmeg. All spices were added for the full boil. Both beers turned out very well, and nicely spiced. Eric ============================ Eric A. Johnson Exxon Research & Engineering eajohns at erenj.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 May 94 12:51:00 PDT From: "McGaughey, Nial" <nmcgaugh at hq.walldata.com> Subject: RE: A/B vs. SA My $.02 on the Sam Adams is that some of the Evil Seed Koch is that to a knowledgeable (sp) homebrewer, some of Sam(AT)Adams's(N)'s proclamations at to the product content and mfg process are simply not true. That is lying. Plus the whole air of a downhome loveable brewing guy vs his business tactics lead an informed person to think twice about J. Koch's claims. If Annheiser Busch is heavily discounting the efforts of homebrewers, I think I'ts great... Why you ask? Well we know better, right? _aaand_ as long as the government thinks we are a bunch of podunk goop heads making barely palatable swill, then the longer we will be able to go on making our own Nectar 'o' the Gods (tm), free of (stupid) taxation, and government meddling. #soapbox off Nial McGaughey Wall Data Incorporated Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 May 1994 15:53:23 -0400 (EDT) From: tcorbett at isac.isac.wright.edu (Timothy F. Corbett) Subject: Information request on food grade pumps I am sure that at least a few of you here use pumps ( food grade if there is even such a thing ) to move hot wort to a CF chiller Where do you get one? How much? are they worth the money? I dont like to wait for gravity to do its thing, I would much rather hurry up and wait for the ferment, haha so how about some input from the best knowledge source ever to hit the circles of home brewing, THE HBD.... TIA Tim Corbett < tcorbett at isac.isac.wright.edu > I will sum up the responces on the HBD if there is enough demand for it, or I will relay the info directly if requested. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 13:11:09 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: CTSP info I have just finished talking to a technical representative of the Albright & Wilson company who makes CTSP. He used to work in the plant which made the CTSP and so has firsthand knowledge of what it is and how it is made. This is the information I recevied. Chlorinated Trisodium Phosphate is made by making a 12 mole solution of TSP and adding 5% sodium hypochlorite (bleach) crystals. As the mixture crystallizes, the sodium hypochlorite is bound by the water of hydration. You cannot make CTSP by just adding bleach to TSP. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 09:24:02 MST From: birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland) Subject: Silver solder, yet again The topic of using solder in making brewing equipment comes up from time to time. Often, someone will point out that just because solder may be labeled "Lead-Free" does NOT mean that it is non-toxic. A metallurgist has told me that it is not unheard of to find cadmium in lead-free solder, which is quite toxic. Maybe it is because I already have a feeble mind, but, while I remember the warning that toxic, lead-free solder exists, I never seem to remember anyone telling me which type (i.e. manufacturer name and part number) is safe. Armed with this information, or lack thereof, I turned to my trusty Grainger catalog (#385), and on page 1270, found a list of lead-free solders made by Kester. There seem to be three types of lead-free solder which are recommended for use in plumbing and potable water applications. One type contains 95% tin and 5% antimony (Kester # 14-7080-0125) Antimony?! No way. Sounds too much like alimony. I'm not going to use this stuff. Another type contains 80% tin, 5% silver, 5% bismuth, and 10% other (Kester model # 82631) I don't like this either. The "10% other" is what bothers me. The third type is called "Lead-free Cadmium-free Silver Solder", it contains 98% tin and 2% silver (Kester model # 14-7016-0125). As I read further, I see that it is recommended for kitchen utensils. I think this stuff must be OK. It also costs significantly more than the other types. (I wonder if maybe something to keep in mind is that the joints in our plumbing will not be exposed to low pH solutions, so that just because it is safe for H20 doesn't mean it is safe for Beer.) Anyway, even though it seemed that the 98% tin, 2% silver was the right stuff, I called up Kester and talked to the safety guy. He told me that they quit using cadmium in their solder a long time ago, so not to worry about that. Beyond that, he didn't really seem to know which one to use. He did point out, however, that it is very important to wash off all of the flux after soldering, since this may also have components that are toxic. So I went to Grainger and bought the 98% tin, 2% silver stuff for $20/lb. I went home and used it with the Oatey lead-free flux from Home Depot on some copper beer-making equipment. I worked hard to rinse off the remaining flux. It looks nice and I hope it doesn't kill me. DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT A SAFETY EXPERT, A SOLDER EXPERT, OR EVEN A VERY GOOD SOLDERER. I DO NOT MAKE ANY CLAIMS AS TO THE ACCURACY OF ANY OF THE ABOVE INFORMATION. Joel Birkeland Motorola SPS Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 16:19:18 EDT From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: Sugar & Acid contents of fruits Way back in HBD 1403 (April 20th), Rich Webb was kind enough to post a table of sugar and acid content of various fruits from "The Curious Cook." I would like to mention that these should be taken as a guideline as the amounts will vary with the growing season and the variety. In the fall of 1992, I bought 5 gal of freshly pressed apple cider from a local farm. No preservatives. I wanted to make a spiced apple wine since the Christmas Ale came out so well the year before. I added honey & sugar to bring the S.G. up and I added spices to the primary. I did not add any acid even though the recipe for straight apple wine called for it. I added Wyeast champagne yeast that I had started previously (1 qt or so). After several days, fermentation had not started. Nothing. I finally broke down and bought an acid test kit. I titrated the acidity and stopped titrating when I reached the "this wine is beyond hope" point. I took it to the homebrew supply shop to see if they got the same results. They did. You can add calcium carbonate to reduce the acidity but only to a point and this was well beyond that. The only solution was to dilute it, add suger to get the SG back up and probably add something to keep the yeast healthy. By this time I was fed up, dumped it, and made a batch of beer! My point in all this, is if you are making a fruit wine or are counting on a certain acidity/sweetness from your fruit juice, I would strongly recommend a hydrometer and an acid test kit. The test kit usually consists of phenolphthalien, 0.1N NaOH, stuff to titrate with, and instructions that explain what the results mean for fermenting things (i.e. acceptable ranges). - -- Jim Grady grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 11:35:12 MDT From: npyle at n33.ecae.stortek.com Subject: Lead Again! John Palmer wrote in Tuesday's HBD: >Brass is an alloy of Copper and Zinc with some lead thrown in for >machinability. The lead percentage varies, but for the common brass alloys >found in hardware stores, it is 7% or less. Lead is entirely soluble in >Copper. Therefore it does not have a high propensity for leaching out of >brass. Jack Scmidling posted yesterday about the lab results on beer made >with his Easy Masher (tm) system which is indeed a worst case scenario for >wort exposure to brass, because his practice is to let the hot wort remain in >contact with the brass fittings for several hours before chilling and then he >ferments the beer in the same vessel. Most users of the EM would be >boiling, chilling and transferring the wort to another fermentation vessel, so >their beer would not be in contact with the brass for more than a few hours >at most. Be that as it may, the Lab results showed that the Tap Water was 6 >PPB, and the beer was less than 10 PPB. The beer may have been equal to 6, >but resolution prevented determining this. The EPA limit is 15 PPB. While >only one data point, it does support my original thought that brass in the >wort should not be a problem. It has occurred to me that Jack's test could've been flawed. Let's assume that Jack is using the same EM that he has used for several batches of beer. I think this is a reasonable assumption, but maybe Jack can verify it for me. Now, assume that any lead leaching out of the brass is lead that was already on or near the surface of the material. All I'm saying is that I don't think lead will keep migrating from the inside of the material after lead has left the surface. I conclude that any lead leaching from the brass did so long ago when Jack's EM was brand new, and that he wouldn't (and didn't) detect any extra lead in a recently brewed beer at this point in time. I came to this conclusion with my own 4" brass nipple, which is attached to my kettle. I figure the lead is already in my body, and Jack's too, and has dun nO harmmmm et aaallll... I discussed this with John; here's his email reply to me: >Make me a co-author so to speak, I sent that on Monday, but found something >yesterday that gave me the same thought. From the ASM Metals Handbook, 9th Ed, >Surface Cleaning, Finishing and Coating; page 233 - > Leaded Alloys >Unlike other elements added to brass or bronze, lead does not >combine with copper to form an alloy. Instead, it remains in >the metal as globules. The lead exposed during machining or >cutting acts as a lubricant by flowing or smearing across the >surface. Electroless nickel does not deposit on lead.* Unless >lead smears are removed, the applied coating is porous with poor >adhesion. Lead remaining on the surface of parts can also >contaminate electroless nickel solutions, causing a rapid decline >in plating rate and deposit quality. >Surface lead is best removed by immersing parts for 30 seconds > - 2 minutes in a 10 to 30% solution of fluoboric acid at room >temperature. Sulfamic acid and dilute nitric acid have also been >reported to be effective solutions fo removing lead. The removal >of lead must occur before deoxidizing or bright dipping in the >pre-treatment cycle, and it is not a substitute for these steps. > >* As Jack is planning on having his brass parts nickel plated by this process, >I should point out that he is having it done by a commercial plating house, >and this situation would be covered in the process specification for these >brass alloys. >We should also point out that the total amount of lead that homebrewers would >be encountering from their one or two brass parts is very small. My conclusion is that Jack should repeat his experiment with a brand new EM, if this was not the case in the first test. I am not losing any sleep over this, BTW, but it is interesting. Norm = npyle at n33.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 11:16:25 -0700 From: Kent Bryan Porter <kporter at well.sf.ca.us> Subject: Caution: bottle washer in use. Last night (5/3) I had a sobering experience with my Jet (tm) bottle washer. (J-shaped brass tube with push-down on/off valve; attaches to faucet.) For the first time in 2 years of monthly use, the valve did not shut off when I removed a bottle. The very hot H2O that wasn't deflected by my face hit the ceiling, cupboards, walls and cats. Minutes later I pulled a 22 oz Old Australia Stout bottle out of the chlorine solution and onto the sprayer. The hot water hit the cold bottle, I heard a 'tink' and another blast came through the broken bottom end of the bottle to give me, the ceiling, cupboards and walls a second rinse. (The cats had wisely occupied themselves elsewhere.) I am now careful to A) not take the bottle completely off the sprayer until the water has shut off, and B) not use COLD water to soak bottles in prior to hot water rinsing. I will use room temp or slightly warmer. I hope my experience is of benefit to others. BTW the bottles that didn't break were Grolsch 16oz swing-tops. kent porter Relax (but be careful!), have a HB. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 94 12:00:41 MDT From: "Mark B. Alston" <c-amb at math.utah.edu> Subject: Re: Spices/light protection/newbies go gonzo [snip] In 20/20 hindsight, though, it seems like beginners ought to start off with basic stuff and get down the technique before complicating things. I basically agree with you except for the reason to start off basic. I feel that the technique is just as easy to get with simple vs complicated brews. However, and this is the main reason to start slow (I wish that I had followed this advice :), you don't have any idea where all the flavors come from. Moreover, for example, with a heavy chocolate stout how do you know what caused any of those flavors which escape the chocolates wrath. I have come to the conclusion that beginning brewers should start with a basic paleish beer for there first attempt, using a kit or simply malt extract, and then supplement it with various specialty grains to explore all the options. This way you know *exactly* what adding the roasted barley does, or the crystal malt, or the ... Again, I wish that I had followed this advice. My first three beers were dark stouts, my favorite style, and I never had any idea what exactly the chocolate, or black patent, or roasted barley did on their own. The results were o.k. but I wasn't learning anything except the technique. On a related note, this is basically how my beginners-guide on sierra steps you through it. I am thinking about updating it ever so slightly, with more info on "where to go from here..." Anyhow, it is in postscript and TeX formats on sierra.stanford.edu. The poscript file is there in both compressed and gzipped format. Check it out and let me know what you think I should add for the update. **No, there is not an ascii version. If you print the postscript one you will know why.** P.S. fellow Zion brewers will recognize this as a modified version of Art's guide. I think that the improvements from his version are significant. Mark Alston c-amb at math.utah.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 May 1994 19:25:22 -0500 (EST) From: MIKE ZEOLI <ZEOL4195 at splava.cc.plattsburgh.edu> Subject: Searching for Microbreweries Date sent: 4-MAY-1994 19:18:51 Hello! I am a student at SUNY Plattsburgh, which is approximately fifteen miles south of the Canadian border in New York State. I have heard from several friends of mine that there are some excellent microbreweries just over the border, near Montreal. I personally have never sampled anything from a microbrewery before and was wondering what constitutes an "excellent" micro. I would appreciate any advice that could be given on this matter. Sincerely M. Zeoli MIKE ZEOLI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 18:27:31 -600 (CDT) From: Mark Evans <evanms at lcac1.loras.edu> Subject: Wort Chiller conservation? Why not save it! Here's an interesting note on the "wort chiller conservation thread." I left my wife in charge of running the wort chiller while I took the kids to the pool (indoors, you goofballs) last Sunday afternoon. It was her favorite brew--stout--so she didn't mind getting in on the process. Anyway, she felt guilty letting all of that water run off, so she started filling some gallon plastic milk jugs that I'd saved for camping. She saved about six gallons--the water was running pretty slowly--and got the wort down to about 85-90F after maybe 25 minutes. I was surprised that, when carefully regulated, only that much water ran off. We use the water on house plants, some outdoor seedlings, some washing, and the dog likes to stick her tongue in the openings for an afternoon drink. I suppose I could save these jugs of water for later batches of brew. Course after all the rain of last summer I figure that the aquifer is pretty well stoked up. Brewfully yours, Mark Evans in Dubuque, Iowa where the hop plants are growing like jack's bean stalk! <evanms at lcac1.loras.edu> Dubuque, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 20:02:48 -0400 (EDT) From: Allen Glass <aglass at andy.bgsu.edu> Subject: There's (going to be) a hole in my bucket. I'm fairly newbie with a question about deliberately mutilating my brewing equipment. Of all the chores involved in homebrewing, the only one I really don't like is siphoning (I had a tragic accident involving a six-foot column of water when I was a child). I'm operating at present with a basic two-plastic pails fermenting-bottling system, and after a wild and dangerous experiment using my bottling bucket (with plastic spigot) as my fermenter, I'm planning on drilling a hole in the side of my regular fermenter and putting a spigot in, thus eliminating the siphoning. Given the relatively high level of innocuous cantankerousness (feed that through your spell-checker) on the HBD, I figured I could probably give myself hours of amusement by asking the simple question: Anyone know why I shouldn't? I await your responses with beery breath (much better than bait, take my word for it). allen aglass at andy.bgsu.edu BTW, being new to the digest, I'd appreciate any tips I can get on reading the digest more easily (I'm using Pine on a BSD Unix Vax). TIA. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 May 94 08:04:00 PDT From: "Robucci, Adam F." <robuccad at dsoeng.sch.ge.com> Subject: Liberty Ale Recipes Thanks to everyone for sending along their recipes. I'll post the results of my brew when I get a chance to brew it. I just picked up a second refrigerator and I have a Sam Adams like lager going. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 May 94 8:45:31 EDT From: William Boyle (CCAC-LAD) <wboyle at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Keg fittings I have a few pin lock kegs, but I need ball lock fittings. My question is if I remove the poppet assembly from my pin lock and buy new ball lock poppet assemblys will the threads match? The problem is Williams Brewing sells a keg pump that fits on the ball lock kegs. I would like to use one of these things but it will not fit my keg. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Bill Boyle Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 May 1994 09:52:10 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Sanitizing filters/etc > Julio C Rojas asked: > ...help me quantify the size of the domestic (U.S.) homebrew market... Take the AHA membership numbers and multiply by 5. That should get you in the *broad* ballpark. What it wont do is figure in the rapid growth rate that is happening every year, just check out the number of entries in certain judging events. Mark writes: >Subject: CTSP vs Clorine & TSP and other ramblings > > First my question: > > I know that alternatives exist such as Idophor but I have just > purchased a 0.5 Micron filter system and am trying to figure out the > best way to sanitize it. (Please no anti-filter comments, I have > never used one myself and don't need to hear the advice of others who > have also not used one. I belive that one should try everything > before writing it off.) I use Bbrite. Its the only place in my brewery that I use this stuff. I leave it in B-brite too. I wont say Im anti-filter, but I will say that .5 micron is a terrible choice, and likely will reduce your foam stand in the finshed beer. If micros filter to 5 microns, thats good enough for me. Thankfully, I have been able to age my beers longer these days, so I rarely filter due to the pain involved. For young beers its a great way to go... Remember, yeasts are pretty large, and proteins can be dealt with in other ways. Kevin writes: > Subject: American Micro Brews > > I've travelled to a large number of brewpubs, but recently had a chance > to sample beers on tap at an English style pub. The beers I had were > Fuller's ESB, Courage, and Guinness. These are the very types of beers > that inspired me to brew in the first place. They were fresh, but did > not have the oomph or sparkle I remember and now associate with micro- > brews. You must have been in the US! Fullers ESB is certainly one of the great experiences in London. The beer changes drastically when served on cask. One of my all time favorites is the lighter ale made by Sierra, the Draught pale. Sometimes lighter is much better. Jeff writes: > > Bear in mind that a barleywine shouldn't finish bone-dry, but also > shouldn't end up at 1035! You might also bear in mind that one can > produce a mighty fine barleywine without starting out at 1.100. You are > more likely to get positive results (and avoid sickly sweet, unfinished > beer) if you start at around 1.090. Amen to all of that! Best, Jim Busch > > Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 May 94 08:50:20 EST From: "Thomas Kavanagh, Curator" <TKAVANAG at ucs.indiana.edu> Subject: Beer or bread? Which came First: Beer or Bread The recent experiments in brewing Babylonian beer (Soloman Katz and Fritz Maytag, Brewing an Ancient Beer, _Archaeology_ July 1991) have rekindled several threads in the popular media about the role of beer in the origins of agriculture, often with reference to a brief discussion in the 1953 _American Anthropologist_. As an anthropologist, often teaching Intro Anthro, and as a home brewer, I have a dual interest in the question. What I want to do here is present a brief summary of that original 1953 discussion and its implications as presented in the Katz/Maytag popular article and in Maytag's advertisements for _Ninkasi Beer_. In October of 1952, Robert Braidwood (U Chicago), published a brief article in _Scientific American_ in which he discussed the "food producing" revolution of the Neolithic period, beginning about 10,000 years ago. He _did not_ directly suggest a causal relationship between bread making and the domestication of grains. In a personal letter, Jonathan D. Sauer (Botany, U Wisc.) responded to Braidwood, asking "whether the earliest utilization of domesticated cereals may have been for beer rather than bread." Braidwood apparently liked the suggestion, and took the opportunity to make use of the symposium-by-mail format of the _Am. Anth._ to pose this question to his colleagues: "Could the discovery that a mash of fermented grain yielded a palatable and nutritious beverage have acted as a greater stimulant toward the experimental selection and breeding of the cereals than the discovery of flour and bread making? ... Was the subsequent impetus to this domestication bread or beer?" Braidwood began with a brief discussion of the Neolithic technology associated with grains, sickles, grinding stones, pottery, noting that none of the technological artifacts necessarily implied either beer or bread. But Braidwood noted that when recovered archaeologically, cereal grains were almost invariably charred. Thus he asked, "whether these charred kernels may have been overfired accidentally in the parching process by which the malt was prepared, although I have seen grain parched for other purposes." Sauer added that since the heads of wild cereal grains shatter when mature, scattering the seed, the collection of wild grain "would seem to me a game scarcely worth the candle except for a more rewarding stake than mere food." But none of the seven scholars who responded accepted Braidwood's suggestion at face value. Hans Halbaek, curator of prehistorical agriculture at the Danish National Museum, rejected the suggestion that charred grain reflected a brewing/malting operation, noting that in malting only enough heat is applied to kill the germ, not enough to carbonizing the grain. Thus any such carbonized grains must resulted from some other operation. Furthermore, all of the carbonized grain obtained from the early sites was ungerminated: it was not malt. Paul Mangelsdorf of Harvard noted that in the various strains of wild wheat and barley, the glume (husks and chaff) adhere to the grain. Thus, without additional processing, the early grains might have been more suited to beer than to bread. However, he also noted that other than the cereals, no other carbohydrate food source was available to the ancient Near- Easterners. But since beer would not serve as the major source of carbohydrates, he argued that "man cannot live on beer alone, and not too satisfactorily on beer and meat." Mangelsdorf then expanded the discussion, noting two other grain food products besides beer and bread: gruel and unleavened bread. As had Halbaek, Mangelsdorf noted that parching was not part of the malting process, but it would have been an effective way of removing the glume. The grain could then be soaked in water to make gruel for the toothless young and old, which might spontaneously ferment. At the same time, he noted that all too often, when we in the West think of bread, we think of yeast- based leavened loaves. But technologically, unleavened bread and gruel is a precursor to both leavened bread and to beer; indeed in at least one method of brewing, the partial baking of yeast bread is prior to the steeping of the loaves and fermenting into beer. Similarly, A. Leo Oppenheim (philologist, U Chicago)--who had already published a fifth or sixth century BC copy of an earlier text in his booklet "On Beer and Brewing Techniques in Ancient Mesopotamia", and in whose honor the Ninkasi Hymn was translated and published)--noted several other ancient food products: "the preparation of vegetable food stuffs (not only cereals), without the application of fire, developed into the manufacture of pulpy dishes (gruel)--made palatable by seasoning or by sour fermentation--and of 'preserves' (such as malted barley, etc). These techniques led them to the making of barley-cakes as well as to the brewing of several types of beer-like beverages. In summarizing the discussion, Braidwood made two comments. The first was that "if the earliest Near Eastern beer was brewed from germinated grain malt as Mangelsdorf thinks probable," then the ungerminated grain from Jarmo offers "no evidence of the process." The second was that the earlist uses of grain was probably as gruel not bread. Comment All in all, the "symposium" was inconclusive. At best, it pointed out that stating the question "beer or bread" as prime mover in domestication was far too simplistic to be answered; perhaps it is now better to say gruel _and_ beer _and_ (unleavened) bread were important product points in the process of the domestication of grain. This leads to another point: the Katz/Maytag discussion of the Beer/Bread symposium is generally irrelevant to their otherwise excellent discussion of the process of brewing the Babylonian beer. That is, their recipe refers only to brewing techniques and products ca. 1800 BC, it says nothing about the products and processes 8000 years before that, nor of the causes and processes of domestication of grains. Although they give the disclaimer that their efforts are merely a "time platform" with which to consider earlier techniques, on the bottled product, the Anchor Brewery's ad man's hyperbole gets in the way of history: the label calls Ninkasi an "attempt to emulate man's first beer brewed 5000+ years ago." This, of course, is doubly incorrect, it is not only not the "first beer," the Babylonian recipe is only 3800 (not 5000) years old. Other references on early brewing: A. L. Oppenehim, On Beer and Brewing Techniques in Ancient Mesopotamia. H. P. Lutz, Viniculture and Brewing in the Ancient Orient. A. Lucas, Ancient Egyptian Materials and Industries. E. Huber, Bier und Bierbereitung bei den Volkern der Urzeir I, Babylonien und Aegypten. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 May 94 13:31:00 PDT From: "Little, David" <davidl at div317.t185.saic.com> Subject: Storing Specialty Grains I'm just starting to play with extract recipes that include specialty grains. What's the best way to store these grains between batches? Should they be stored in the freezer or is an airtight plastic tub (ala Tupperware) better? David Little Internet: david.little-1 at cpmx.saic.com CIS: 72133,1056 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 May 94 10:19:39 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Oatmeal Stout I alluded to this recipe a couple of weeks ago in response to a request. But now that the beer has passed it's "exam" (a party this weekend) with flying colors, it's time to post the recipe. My wife really liked Sam Adams Cream Stout when we had some last summer. I thought I'd try to make a beer with that nice creamy, roasty flavor, but lower gravity, for her graduation party last weekend. Amy's Stout (#30) for 5 gallons 5.5 lb Hugh Baird Pale Ale malt 0.5 lb Carapils malt (Hugh Baird) 0.5 lb Hugh Baird 50L crystal 1.0 lb flaked oats (McCann's Irish Quick Oats) 0.7 lb roasted barley 30g BC Kent Goldings flowers (5%) (60 min) 15g ditto (15 min) 15g ditto (5 min) Step mash all grains together at 61C for 30 min (3 gal strike), 65C for 30 min. (infuse 2qts boiling water). Sparged 5.8 gallons at 1.038. Yield: 4.7 gallons at 1.046 (I did add some top-up water during the boil). Fermented 1 week in glass at 19-22C with a pint starter of YeastLab Irish Ale. FG 1.012. Bottled with 1/3c corn sugar into 2 5l mini-kegs and 18 bottles. Tasting notes (after 1 week in bottle/keg): Yum! Initial roasty-malty aroma with a hint of hop flower-spice. Fills your mouth, smooth, silky and medium-full body. Sweet but not too much, balanced with hops but towards the sweet side. Really right-on with what I was aiming for. Too bad I didn't make this in time for the Nationals. Amy loves it, the party guests liked it, once they got past the intimidating (to a beer neophyte) blackness. If you really love the roasted coffee flavor of roasted barley, the beer could easily take more of it, or maybe 1/4lb chocolate malt to "sharpen up" the flavor a bit. But it's darn good as it is, and tastes a lot "bigger" than you might expect from its OG. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 May 1994 10:32 EST From: RON.admin at admin.creol.ucf.edu (RON) Subject: BlackberryBrew/Large vessels Wondered upon a large Blackberry patch here in Central Florida. They are remotely located and rippening nicely. I should have a freezer full in the next few weeks. I have made Blackberry Ales before from store bought fruit. Both batches turned out dry. I would like to avoid this by adding lactose (preparation???) or something else to avoid the dryness. Thought I might try using a more atten. yeast..... ...any recomendations on sugars or liquid yeasts ????? Could someone forward the phone/address of the place in Texas that has the styrofoam packed 7 Gal glass vessels for sale. Are there any other places to get vessels (glass or stainless - no plastics please) greater than 5 gal???? inexpensive is the key. Should airation be avoided/minimized during transfer from mash vessel to lauter vessel???? For that matter during the entire mash process?? Recent and only batches of all grain have what I think is oxygen poisoning. I get good hop aroma and flavor, so i think its happening before boil?????? Long Live HBD ron at admin.creol.ucf.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 May 94 10:37:41 EDT From: Chris Lyons <Chris.Lyons at analog.com> Subject: priming sugars ... In HBD 1416 Wesman commented on the use of different priming sugars. Just wanted to follow-up with an additional data point. I have tried priming with sucanut (sp?) and find that it gives an nice flavor to the beer ... similar to that found in OP. (Sucanut is sometimes used as a substitute for brown sugar.) For priming I use the same volume of sucanut that I would have used for corn sugar and get nearly identical carbonation results (just a flavor difference). I use sucanut to carbonate my English style Pale Ales, where I consider the added flavor acceptable. Just my $0.02 on the topic, Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 May 1994 10:32 EDT From: Alan_Marshall <AK200032 at Sol.YorkU.CA> Subject: Cereal mashing Actually, my subject line sound like a horrific crime! In HBD, "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com>, writes: > Subject: Mashing Breakfast Cereal > > Am I out of my mind?! Well, popular opinion aside, I have been > wondering about this. Mashing breakfast cereal that is. So far my > candidates are Grape Nuts, Cheerios, and of course Quaker Oatmeal. <some of the justification omitted> Why not? If I can put Pale Malt or Crystal Malt in my porridge, why can't you brew with cereal? Of course, JS would have to develop the InstaEasyMasher (tm)! Alan - -- Alan Marshall "If a picture is worth a thousand AK200032 at SOL.YORKU.CA words, a taste is worth a thousand York University pictures." - Charles Finkel, Pike Toronto, Canada Place Brewery/Merchant du Vin Return to table of contents
Date: Thu May 5 11:02:37 1994 From: braddw at rounder.rounder.com Subject: Harpoon IPA. I just tried Harpoon's IPA last night and was knocked out by the flavor! There is a hint of oak-aging but also a sweet candy-like flavor to it. Does anyone know where this sweet flavor comes from? I would love to try and duplicate this recipe. Private mail is welcome. **** ---- "There's always time for a Homebrew!" ---- **** C|~~| ----------------------------------------------- C|~~| `--' --------------braddw at rounder.com--------------- `--' Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 May 94 08:01:05 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: CTSP vs Clorine & TSP >>>>> "Mark" == Mark B Alston <c-amb at math.utah.edu> writes: Mark> I am quite confused about the differences between using CTSP Mark> (clorinated Tri Sodium Phosphate) and straight Clorine bleach with Mark> TSP. See my posting about the difference in CTSP and TSP + bleach which should appear in the next HBD. Mrk> I have read in many sources that bleach will corrode stainless Mark> steel but that CTSP is much safer. Get John Palmer's treatise on why bleach is safe for SS from the HBD archives. Cannot be explained better than that. Mark> Can I really use CTSP safely on my stainless kegs. Absolutely. Use it with the hottest water you can get, leave it for only 20 minutes and then rinse thoroughly. You will have no problems. Lots of people are doing this. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu May 5 11:02:37 1994 From: braddw at rounder.rounder.com Subject: Harpoon IPA. I just tried Harpoon's IPA last night and was knocked out by the flavor! There is a hint of oak-aging but also a sweet candy-like flavor to it. Does anyone know where this sweet flavor comes from? I would love to try and duplicate this recipe. Private mail is welcome. **** ---- "There's always time for a Homebrew!" ---- **** C|~~| ----------------------------------------------- C|~~| `--' --------------braddw at rounder.com--------------- `--' Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1417, 05/06/94