HOMEBREW Digest #1422 Thu 12 May 1994

Digest #1421 Digest #1423


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  Wyeast 1338 for wheat beers (allison shorten)
  cooker source found (cheap) (Gregg Tennefoss)
  Parallel Yeast Cultures ("WLK:wbst311.xerox")
  Bleach in Pools vs. Sanitizing (John DeCarlo              x7116          )
  Parallel Yeast Cultures ("WLK:wbst311.xerox")
  Light Beer ("pratte")
  Re: wheat and corn (Jeff Frane)
  Mashing Breakfast Cereal ("Little, David")
  legal advice needed ("JSDAWS1 at PROFSSR")
  The uses of "Malta Goya" ("Rafael Busto")
  Parallel Yeast Cultures ("WLK:wbst311.xerox")
  Homebrew Clubs in San Jose Area (wyatt)
  Brewing in Arizona (Tim Anderson)
  plastic secondary (Tom Pratt)
  Homebrew Digest #1421 (May 11, 1994) (James M. Brewster)
  Dunkleweizen and Homebrew BBS (Fred Waltman)
  Midlothian Scotch Ale (Rich Larsen)
  Digest reader for Mac (John Glaser)
  later (Jeremy Ballard Bergsman)
  Re: California Common Ale (Sturdy McKee)
  New BrewPub revisited (Parks Welch)
  Re: Dark Weiss & Kegging Questions (Brew Free Or Die  11-May-1994 1535)
  novice sparging questions (TODD CARLSON)
  nerdy ramblings on nomenclature and sanitizers... ("DANIEL HOUG")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 20:34:58 +1000 (EST) From: allison shorten <shorten at zeus.usq.edu.au> Subject: Wyeast 1338 for wheat beers In his discussion on making Bavarian-style wheat beers in "The Complete Handbook of Home Brewing", Miller recommends Weihenstephan 338 ale yeast, claiming it "has too much clove for an altbier, but makes an excellent Weizen" (p215). In view of the similarity in numbers, does anyone know whether this is the same yeast as Wyeast 1338 European ale, and/or if this strain is useful for this beer style? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 07:46:36 -0400 (EDT) From: greggt at infi.net (Gregg Tennefoss) Subject: cooker source found (cheap) I was at a local Sam's Club last night and found that they have two cookers in stock. The traditional king kooker with pot and basket was $49.99. Then I dicovered that they had a 200000btu jet cooker for $26.99. The jet cooker is not as tall as the king but it is heavy duty and appeared to be made well. cheers Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 04:53:09 PDT From: "WLK:wbst311.xerox" at com.xerox.com Subject: Parallel Yeast Cultures Greetings: Having read Homebrew Yeast FAQ, I am attempting to produce parallel yeast cultures from a package of Wyeast 1056, which I understand to be a good all-around yeast. Last week, I started a 5 pint starter of sterile wort, and pitched the inflated Wyeast, this into a 1 gal. carboy. This fermented out nicely in a week or so, and I then bottled about five bottles of yeast-laden brew for subsequent starters. I ended up with some remarkably trub-free yeast in the bottom of each bottle. Yesterday, I decanted a bottle, and pitched the yeast slurry into a 1.5L bottle along with a half pint of sterile wort. This morning it was fermenting well, so I guess this whole procedure does, in fact, work. All that is left to do is build up my starter with some more sterile wort, and pitch the works into my next batch-o-brew. I have one big question, however. Once I have bottled the yeast, at what temperature should I store the bottles? Wyeast packets are, of course, refrigerated, and since my resultant bottles will be treated just like packets of Wyeast, should I treat them as such temperature-wise? Any answers, input, or comments are very welcome. Thanks Bill King Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 94 07:52:58 EST From: John DeCarlo x7116 <jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org> Subject: Bleach in Pools vs. Sanitizing Chip Hitchcock mentions that swimming pools have up to 1 ppm of chlorine and then guesses at recommended amounts for sanitizing. The recommended amounts for sanitizing are in the 50-200ppm of chlorine, in cold water with no organic material, for 15 minutes. How much you should add of your household bleach is left as and exercise for the reader. Consider that old bleach containers may not have the same concentration of chlorine as new ones. John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 05:52:10 PDT From: "WLK:wbst311.xerox" at com.xerox.com Subject: Parallel Yeast Cultures Greetings: Having read Homebrew Yeast FAQ, I am attempting to produce parallel yeast cultures from a package of Wyeast 1056, which I understand to be a good all-around yeast. Last week, I started a 5 pint starter of sterile wort, and pitched the inflated Wyeast, this into a 1 gal. carboy. This fermented out nicely in a week or so, and I then bottled about five bottles of yeast-laden brew for subsequent starters. I ended up with some remarkably trub-free yeast in the bottom of each bottle. Yesterday, I decanted a bottle, and pitched the yeast slurry into a 1.5L bottle along with a half pint of sterile wort. This morning it was fermenting well, so I guess this whole procedure does, in fact, work. All that is left to do is build up my starter with some more sterile wort, and pitch the works into my next batch-o-brew. I have one big question, however. Once I have bottled the yeast, at what temperature should I store the bottles? Wyeast packets are, of course, refrigerated, and since my resultant bottles will be treated just like packets of Wyeast, should I treat them as such temperature-wise? Any answers, input, or comments are very welcome. Thanks Bill King Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 9:38:52 -0400 (EDT) From: GONTAREK at FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV Subject: All-grain...how I did it ALL-GRAIN...HOW I DID IT by Rick Gontarek Greetings all. Recently I posted that I made my first all-grain batch this past weekend, managing to do so without spending lots o' dough. Due to the overwhelming response I received, I've decided to detail how I went about it. Bear in mind that by opening my technique up to the digest, I stand to take a fair amount of criticism for how I did certain things. I'm not saying that I may not have done a few things wrong, but it was a positive experience that I hope might inspire others to begin a foray into all-graining. Of course, all comments are welcome. I purchased 15 lbs of pale malt from a local homebrew supply shop for about $15 (already a great savings over extracts). I am fortunate to have a friend who owns a Corona grain mill. So Sunday morning I made myself a pot of coffee (too early for homebrew) and began to crush the grains. It was fun! Yes, there was shrapnel and dust everywhere (I'm still blowing it out of my nose!), but it was nothing that a quick sweep job with a broom couldn't take care of. I have two friends that have all-grained using grains crushed in a blender. If this is your option, do several short pulses and only par- tially fill the blender with grain. This will take some time, but it can be done. Some will indoubtedly argue that this is stupid, but in a pinch a blender does the job. My recipe was as follows: Golden Ale 8 lbs. Pale malt 0.5 lbs cara-pils (dextrin) malt 0.1 lbs (2 ounces) Crystal malt (20L) 0.5 ounces Cascade hops (pellets) 1.2 ounces Williamette hops (pellets) Sierra Nevada Yeast starter (yeast originally obtained from the Frederick brewing company) I did a single-step infusion mash. In a five gallon stainless steel pot, I heated 2 gallons of water to 170 degrees F. To this was added the crushed grains...the temperature then fell to 156 degrees F. I put the lid on and was surprised at how long the temp kept steady! I measured the temp with a thermometer (an essential requirement), and when it fell two degrees, I cranked the heat on for a few minutes (gas stove). While stirring constantly, the temp went back up to 156 degrees in a matter of moments. After one hour, an iodine test revealed conversion to sugar. BTW, I bought the iodine at a local pharmacy for $1.29. In another pot, I had three gallons of water at 170 degrees F. After starch conversion, with the help of my lovely (and tolerant) wife, I proceeded to pour the mash through a large kitchen strainer into a clean bucket. The grain was poured through the strainer a little at a time and rinsed a bit with some of the 170 degree sparge water. The spent grains were then placed temporarily into another pot. When all the grains were drained and rinsed once,I added the rest of the sparge water to the grains, swished it around, and poured the gamish-mash through the strainer again. Yes, a lauter-tun was borrowed from a friend (a plastic bucket from the hardware store with a bunch of holes drilled through it) and was used to strain anything remaining in the pre-wort. At this point I had about 5 gallons of wort. I poured this into my 5 gallon pot, and it came up to the tippy-top, leaving no room for boiling, etc. So, I merely poured about half of the wort into another pot! These were brought to a boil, and 0.5 ounces of Cascades were added to one pot and boiled for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, half of the Williamettes were added, and boiling continued. After another 30 minutes, the heat was turned off and the remaining Williamettes were added. I put the pots into my bathtub filled with cold water. Because the heat from the pots rapidly warmed the bath water, after about 10 minutes I drained the tub, filled it again with cold water, and added some ice. Of course, I kept the lids on the pots the whole time so as not to allow the green fuzzy things growing on the walls of the bathtub to get into my precious wort (just kidding about the green fuzzy things...we keep a clean bathroom!). I made it to 70 degrees in about 40 minutes. The contents of the pots were then strained into an anxiously-awaiting glass carboy. I brought the volume up to almost 6 gallons with cold water, and then pitched the yeast. Tonight I transfer to a secondary, adding 1 ounce of Cascades to dry-hop, and then wait 'till early next week to bottle. If anyone wants more details, please send email and I will try to help you out. By the way, many of you helped me figure out my extraction rate (37*6/8.6=25.8 pts/lb/gallon, not bad for a first try!). Thanks so much for everyone's advice/help. I hope that my use of bandwidth had inspired many of you to just do it. I love to cook, and spending an extra 2 hours over my brewpot was therapeutic for me. A few of you had also written to me stating that you have aversions to liquid yeast. Go for it, I say! Your beer will be much better. I have successfully cultured yeast for several months now, and now I have collected several different strains from local brewpubs and microbreweries. It takes very little extra work/time, and it is well worth it. Besides, it's sort of cool to tour your local micro and ask for some of their yeast! What a hobby! What a country! I love beer! Sorry, I got carried away. Anyway, I will let all of you know how my beer turns out. I suspect that it will be tasty and well worth the extra effort. Until next time..."Keep your feet on the ground and keep reaching for that bottle of homebrew". Rick Gontarek gontarek at ncifcrf.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 08:44:45 EST From: "pratte" <PRATTE at GG.csc.peachnet.edu> Subject: Light Beer Several days ago, somebody (I believe pneumand at delphi.com) asked a question about brewing lighter beers. While I haven't tried the method, last year's summer (or maybe fall) Zymurgy edition has an article on one method for doing it. The article was called "Quarterbock". It recommended making a bock beer (initial SG 1.080), letting it fully ferment, and then diluting it with water during the bottling process. This way, your lite beer has more flavor since it has all of the tasty products made during the initial stages of fermenting a high alcohol beer. It sounds like a reasonable process for getting more flavor into a low alcohol beer, and should be worth the try. John Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 06:46:12 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Re: wheat and corn Dan Wood wrote: > > My friend Dave, an infrequent homebrewer (aka heathen), claims to have > recently drank a "dark weiss" made in Germany. I contended that it would > be difficult to make such a beer conforming to the German beer purity law > (R_?). Can someone please settle this? I suspect that I'm wrong, they > must be able to use roasted grains, how else could they make Beck's Dark? > A couple of things: your buddy was most likely drinking dunkelweizen (readily available in the U.S.), which is a dark wheat beer (not *real* dark, but considerably darker than the usual). They can get their color from a number of methods (see Eric Warner). You are apparently under the misimpression that the Rh***bot (don't ask me to spell it!) forbids dark grains. The restriction is that they use malted barley, but there's nothing against roasting the barley once malted. In fact, some dunkelweizens even use roasted malted wheat. Mark Castleman isn't afraid to spell it!: > > I am toying with the ideea of making a very light ale for the summer > round-up and much to the chagrin of my Rheinheitsgebot following SO I am > thinking about using corn. Can you use flaked corn (maize) with extracts > or does it need to be mashed? How about corn or rice syrup? > One of the advantages of using flaked maize is that you do not need to cook it, but I'm a little non-plused when I read something like "can you use X with extracts or does it need to be mashed?" What exactly do you *do* with any adjunct if not a mash? Even a pseudo-mash? Surely you aren't actually boiling this stuff, ala CP? Try doing a simple infusion of grains -- whether caramel malts or flaked wheat -- for 45 minutes or so at 150, then rinse them and add all the liquid to your pot and add the extract to that. Personally, I think flaked maize is one of brewing's golden secrets, and have used it in very good (really!) lagers, abbeybiers and pale ales. But syrup? I guess I'm still something of a bigot and I'll let them use syrup in glop like malt liquors -- not in my beer, thanks! - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 94 10:25:00 PDT From: "Little, David" <davidl at div317.t185.saic.com> Subject: Mashing Breakfast Cereal In Issue #1418, Richard Webb asked >> Any other unusual brewing ingredients out there? I'm brewing a Pecan Ale tonight. I got the original recipe from John Pratte. He had a couple of methods to add the pecans but I've chosen to make a small side batch of unhopped wort (1# amber extract and 2 cups water) while I'm doing the specialty grains (Crystal and Chocolate malts). After boiling the mini-wort, I'll put a cup or so of chopped pecans into it and let it steep a while. When the main wort is finished, I'll strain out the nuts and pour the mini-wort in with the rest of the wort. Since the mini-wort was unhopped, I can now roast the pecans and snack on them while waiting for the "Main Event" to finish fermenting. David Internet: david.little-1 at cpmx.saic.com CIS: 72133,1056 Return to table of contents
Date: 11 May 1994 07:35:07 PST From: "JSDAWS1 at PROFSSR" <JSDAWS1 at PB1.PacBell.COM> Subject: legal advice needed After several years, my nextdoor neighboor has decided that brewing beer in my kitchen produces noxious odors in the hallway between our units. It's always been my understanding that brewing is a form of cooking food, which can not be legislated or restriced if done in one's home. However, I believe he's trying to use his current position as vice-president of our condominium association to get it to impose restrictions or prevent my brewing beer in my kitchen. Consequently, I think I need some specific legal advice, and maybe the name of an attourney in the SF bay area (preferably a homebrewer). Thanks in advance | Don't anthropomorphize computers... They don't like it. | | ------------------------------------------------------------------- | | JACK DAWSON - JSDAWS1 - 415 545-0299 - CUSTOMER BILLING (BG) | Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 10:57:48 From: "Rafael Busto" <SUPERVISOR at bnk1.bnkst.edu> Subject: The uses of "Malta Goya" Two days ago I bought from my local grocery store a bottle of "Malta Goya" (33 cents) and when I tasted it at home I thought "Gosh, this stuff actually tastes and smells like real wort!". The label said that is made from "Barley Malt, corn sugar, and choicest hops" sounds familiar? Anyway, this beverage is very sweet and I was thinking if somebody has any experience in using it as either part of your wort or as a priming agent. Another use would be as a yeast culture solution. Anyway, if you want to explain somebody what "wort" is and how smells, save yorself some time and money and buy malta Goya. Regards, Rafael Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 08:00:05 PDT From: "WLK:wbst311.xerox" at com.xerox.com Subject: Parallel Yeast Cultures Greetings: Having read Homebrew Yeast FAQ, I am attempting to produce parallel yeast cultures from a package of Wyeast 1056, which I understand to be a good all-around yeast. Last week, I started a 5 pint starter of sterile wort, and pitched the inflated Wyeast, this into a 1 gal. carboy. This fermented out nicely in a week or so, and I then bottled about five bottles of yeast-laden brew for subsequent starters. I ended up with some remarkably trub-free yeast in the bottom of each bottle. Yesterday, I decanted a bottle, and pitched the yeast slurry into a 1.5L bottle along with a half pint of sterile wort. This morning it was fermenting well, so I guess this whole procedure does, in fact, work. All that is left to do is build up my starter with some more sterile wort, and pitch the works into my next batch-o-brew. I have one big question, however. Once I have bottled the yeast, at what temperature should I store the bottles? Wyeast packets are, of course, refrigerated, and since my resultant bottles will be treated just like packets of Wyeast, should I treat them as such temperature-wise? Any answers, input, or comments are very welcome. Thanks Bill King Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 94 08:40:25 pst From: wyatt at Latitude.COM Subject: Homebrew Clubs in San Jose Area I recently heard that there was a homebrew club in the San Jose Ca. area and was wondering if somebody had some information on it (them?). I always thought that there must be at least one around here but never pursued it. Any information on clubs, meeting dates and places, and nature (activities, do they have a yeast bank, etc.)of club(s) would be helpful as well as telephone #'s of the people to get in touch with. Thanks in advance for any info. Wyatt Jones Wyatt at latitude.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 94 08:40:38 PDT From: tima at wv.MENTORG.COM (Tim Anderson) Subject: Brewing in Arizona Soliciting some info from homebrewers and beer enthusiasts in Arizona, and the Phoenix/Tempe areas in particular. Please respond via email. 1. Where do you go for microbrewery beer? Is it well received? 2. What pubs offer their own beer? What other beers do they carry? 3. Where do you buy homebrewing supplies? 4. Do you brew in the summer? 5. If a facility was made available where you could brew beer, would you use it? Muchas Gracias, tim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 08:50:47 +0800 From: Tom.Pratt at Eng.Sun.COM (Tom Pratt) Subject: plastic secondary I just picked up a second refrigerator and I was thinking about doing some lagering. My original equipment was all plastic but I picked up a 6 1/2 gallon glass carboy because the stout recipe I've been using wasn't content to stay inside a 5 gallon plastic bucket. Anyway, is it a definite bad idea to lager in plastic, as I'd like to continue to make ales in the bottle while fridge time passes? Or should I just spring for another bottle? My hobby is starting to consume a lot of space and I think my SO is starting to get concerned. (And she thinks there will be room in the new fridge for a soda or two - ha!) -Tom Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 12:45:48 -0500 From: jmb31 at cornell.edu (James M. Brewster) Subject: Homebrew Digest #1421 (May 11, 1994) >My friend Dave, an infrequent homebrewer (aka heathen), claims to have >recently drank a "dark weiss" made in Germany. I contended that it would >be difficult to make such a beer conforming to the German beer purity law >(R_?). Can someone please settle this? I suspect that I'm wrong, they >must be able to use roasted grains, how else could they make Beck's Dark? Yes, roasted malts (black patent and chocolate) are OK. Roasted barley is not. Dave probably had a Bavarian Dunkelweizen. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 09:51:37 -0700 (PDT) From: waltman at netcom.com (Fred Waltman) Subject: Dunkleweizen and Homebrew BBS Dan Woods ask about dark German wheat beers: It is not *roasted* grain per say that is not allowed under the Reiheitsgebot, but *unmalted* grain. So a roased malt (like chocalate malt, etc.) would be OK, but roasted unmalted barley (as used in stouts) would not. And yes, Dunkleweizen beers are to be found in Germany. Someone else asked about Homebrew BBS. These are the ones I know of: Maltose Falcons-Falcons Nest 818-342-0530 Homebrew U (SW Campus) 713-923-6418 Homebrew U (Midwest) 708-705-7263 No Tarmac Brewing 703-525-3715 Bettter Brewing Bureau 415-964-4356 Terminator 214-625-2448 Don't remember speeds on any of them except the Falcons Nest and it will handle 9600 baud. Fred Waltman Culver City Home Brewing SupplyA waltman at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 11:56:43 -0500 (CDT) From: Rich Larsen <richl at access1.speedway.net> Subject: Midlothian Scotch Ale Wow! I'm so humbled... I guess there is life out there in the net The response for requests for the Scotch Ale recipe was large enough to post so, First of all the recipe is constantly being modified and played with. A lot of the times, I change a hop, modify a temp, change a specialty malt, or something. But the base usually is the same. If any of you saw my article in the Winter '93 issue of Zymurgy on hop tables then you saw one of the versions of the recipe. The recipe is all grain, but I suppose if you substitute light or pale malt extract for the base grain, and use the specialty malts as is, you will come close. First the recipe I talked about in the post. 15 lbs Belgium Pale Ale 1 lb Crystal 40L 1/4 lb Roasted Barley Water adjustments (for Chicago Water) 1/2 Tsp Salt 1 1/2 tsp Gypsum I use the salt for chloride ions. I'm no expert on water treatments so don't ask me why. I read that chloride helps to round out the flavor, so I add it. I'm not even sure it makes a difference. Mash 152F 60 Minutes 168F 10 Minutes (Mash out, to raise the temp for sparge, mostly) Hops : 1 oz Perle 6.8% (P) 2 oz Fuggle 3.6% (F) Min P F <---- If you have trouble with this hop schedule table, 60 3/4 Read my article :-) 45 1/4 1/2 30 1/2 15 1/2 F 1/2 Wyeast Scottish SG 1.070 FG ~1.014 I got a poor extraction rate on this recipe for some reason, if you do better, expect a much higher OG or drop the base malt a few pounds. For example, look at the next recipe, which is the base recipe. ------------------------------- 12 lbs English Pale Ale 1 lb CaraPils 1 lb Crystal 40L 1/2 tsp Salt 1 1/2 tsp Gypsum Mash 125F 30 Min 149F 45 Min 158F 45 Min 168F 10 Min 2 oz Kent Golding 5.4% (K) 1 oz Fuggle 3.6% (F) Min K F 60 1/2 45 3/4 1/2 30 1/4 1/4 15 1/4 Wyeast British SG 1.068 FG 1.020 Enjoy! I hope y'all have as much luck with it as I did! => Rich Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514 The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL (Not a commercial establishment) "I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 94 10:53:41 -0700 From: John Glaser <glaser at analog.ece.arizona.edu> Subject: Digest reader for Mac This may be a little late, but a while ago, someone was looking for a digest reader for Macintosh computers. There is one I used in the past called "Digest Browser", which I got by ftp from sumex-aim.stanford.edu. I think the file was "browser*.hqx or something like that. It does work for the HBD, I just tested it. If it is no longer available, I will be happy to upload it. I forget what kind of *ware it is, but I never used it much. Hope this helps. John Glaser (glaser at analog.ece.arizona.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 11:35:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeremy Ballard Bergsman <jeremybb at leland.Stanford.EDU> Subject: later > Subject: Dark Weiss & Kegging Questions > > My friend Dave, an infrequent homebrewer (aka heathen), claims to have > recently drank a "dark weiss" made in Germany. I contended that it would > be difficult to make such a beer conforming to the German beer purity law > (R_?). Can someone please settle this? I suspect that I'm wrong, they > must be able to use roasted grains, how else could they make Beck's Dark? > The purity law has no prohibition on using dark grains, as long as they are malted (i.e. no unmalted, roasted barley). > From: downing at FOUND.CS.NYU.EDU (Troy Downing) > Subject: gueze culture > > Has anyone tried starting a yeast/bacteria culture from a bottle of > Gueze lambic? I'm curious what might still be viable in a bottle of this > and what kind of beer it would produce. I'd like to hear if anyone has > tried this and what the results were. Subscribe to the lambic digest: lambic-request@ longs.lance.colostate.edu (Forget getting anything from Lindemann's. And if you are not pretty skilled at culturing you won't get everything you want from the bottle.) > From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> > Subject: Chlorine Concentrations > > Now I have been using 1 tablespoon per gallon (4ml/l) (1/2 ounce/gallon) and > letting it sit for 20 minutes. By looking at the articles above, the reader is > left with two handfuls of chlorine, looking at his stainless steel keg and > saying Well...? > Does anyone know how many ppms are in a mg/liter??! And how many fluid ounces > per gallon that is?!! 1 liter = 1000g so 1 mg/l = 1 ppm. The next question is harder since you must know how many mg of Cl/oz. Bleach is usually "5.25% Sodium hypochlorite." (.0525 g/ml)*(35 parts Cl/107 parts NaHClO3)*(29 ml/oz) = .49 g Cl/oz If you want 1 gallon of 100 ppm you need (3.8l*100mg/l)/(490 mg Cl/oz)=0.77 oz My only reservation here is the conversion to free chlorine, which I have assumed to be 100%. Isn't chlorine much safer for SS at high pH? Isn't this why CTSP is a common cleaning/sanitizing agent? > From: MARK CASTLEMAN <mwcastle at ouray.Denver.Colorado.EDU> > Subject: Adjuncts & Extracts > > I am toying with the ideea of making a very light ale for the summer > round-up and much to the chagrin of my Rheinheitsgebot following SO I am > thinking about using corn. Can you use flaked corn (maize) with extracts > or does it need to be mashed? How about corn or rice syrup? I think you would be better off going with syrup (or just plain corn sugar) as a source of corn if you don't want to mash. Most of the carbohydrate of the corn will be starch, which you don't want in your wort. Why not do a minimash with as much palt malt as corn? > in #1420 Ed wolfe writes: > > - --I'd also like to hear from anyone who has > experience and/or insights about how to set up a ventilation system for > using one of these oxygen suckers in a basement. There are often posts about oxygen needs for these cookers. I just happened to be looking at the 1991 Uniform Mechanical Code, which specifies 50 cubic feet of free air space per 1000 Btu/hour. What this doesn't speak to is the venting of the carbon monoxide. Just a data point. Jeremy Bergsman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 11:43:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Sturdy McKee <sturdy at mercury.sfsu.edu> Subject: Re: California Common Ale Hi, I'm new at this email thing and at homebrewing. I've so far brewed 4 batches of reasonably decent beer and a crisp hard cider. Right now I have a "Steam Beer"TM in bottles and am wondering if I haven't experienced my first major setback. I used an amber extract and a couple pounds of various lovibond crystal malt for complexity. I hopped heavily, 2 oz boil, 1 oz finishing, and .5 oz dry hopping 2 days before bottling. I used WYeast California Common liquid lager yeast, which is supposed to behave well at temperatures below 62 F. The initial fermentaion went well, racked over to secondary after 5 days, let stand in secondary about 10 days. I primed with about 2/3 c corn sugar at bottling and came out with 50+ bottles. The green beer was a bit sweet, but nice hoppiness and full body. Everything appeared to be on track to my inexperienced eye. After 2 1/2 weeks in the bottle, the beer is almost completely lacking carbonation. I have sediment at the bottom and the beer is a beautiful, amber color. I know I'm impatient but I wanted to drink my beer. After 1 1/2 weeks, the beer was flat and sweet, and I went and added Windsor dry ale yeast to several bottles to see if I couldn't pick up the carbonation. Nothing. I admit that the fermentation temp has been above 62 F for most of the time, but shouldn't the ale yeast have taken off? How long should I expect to wait before this beer should be carbonated and drinkable? Or does it sound as if this beer has failed? What should I do to save my precious 5 gal? As Papazian says, maybe I have ruined my beer by worrying, but I was excited about this brew and want it to be ready in another 2 1/2 weeks for a special occasion. Any advice is welcome and greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sturdy sturdy at sfsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 14:48:01 -0400 (EDT) From: Parks Welch <pwelch at isnet.is.wfu.edu> Subject: New BrewPub revisited I hope I'm doing this correctly. 1. I just read Peter's notice regarding the new brewpub. We are supposedly getting a new one here in Winston-Salem also when our new shopping center gets built. From my understanding, the person opening the brewpub currently carries beer from all over the country and ships it everywhere. I think the concept must be similar to Peter's brewpub. I don't know the business address but if anyone is interested, his home address is: 1170 Foxhall Drive Winston-Salem, NC 27106 (or maybe 27104, I'm not sure which) 2. What is the best way to get started brewing your own beer - - ie. books etc. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 94 15:35:07 EDT From: Brew Free Or Die 11-May-1994 1535 <hall at buffa.enet.dec.com> Subject: Re: Dark Weiss & Kegging Questions In HBD # Dan Wood asked how to measure/monitor the pressure in a keg. Here are plans for a Keg Pressure Tester and Relief Valve that you can attach to your soda kegs to read the internal pressure. It is similar to one that was described by Dan Fink in an issue of Zymurgy. It has multiple uses. You can check keg pressure with it, to see if your keg has developed a leak, or to see if CO2 is going into solution. (Note: the valve on a CO2 regulator doesn't perform this function. It tells you how much CO2 the regulator will attempt to place in the keg when it is attached). You can use it to bleed pressure from the keg via the needle valve, if your keg is old and doesn't have a pressure relief valve built in (not recommended). If you are transferring beer from one sealed keg to another, you can crack the needle valve just barely to allow built-up pressure in the receiving keg to escape slowly. Otherwise, when pressure was equal in both kegs, the transfer would stop. The prices and catalog numbers are from Foxx Beverage Corp, September, 1991. ITEM CATALOG # DESCRIPTION COST 1 07C07-115 Ball Lock Disconnect, Gas, 1/4" MFL 3.13 2 05B01-215 1/4" FFL x 1/4" FFL Swivel 1.21 3 05B01-183 1/4" MFL x 1/4" MPT Male Half Union .28 4 05B01-105 1/4" Female Pipe Tee 1.11 5 03G07-142 Gauge, 1/4" MPT, 0-60 PSI 4.35 6 05B01-224 1/4" MFL x 1/4" MPT Brass Needle Valve 3.50 Cheesy ASCII Graphics (redundant term) follow: ------ _____ -\__/- /-- ----------- _/ \ | --- _/--\_ \__ | 4 | _ 5 | / \ ---- ---- \ / | | 2 3 | | ----- | | | | | | | | | __| | | 1 \ / 6 The quick-disconnect (item 1) can be ball or pin. Its outlet is 1/4" male flare. The 1/4" FFL x 1/4" FFL swivel (item 2) and the 1/4" MFL x 1/4" MPT male half union (item 3) are there simply because there was no other way I could find to connect the pipe tee's (item 4) 1/4" female pipe threads to the quick disconnect's 1/4" male flare threads. The gauge (item 5) and the needle valve (item 6) had male 1/4" pipe threads, so it was easier and cheaper to just use those and adapt the pipe T to the Q-D. Seal all pipe threads with Teflon tape and away you go. Enjoy! -Dan, getting psyched for Denver! P.S. For far too many months, I've been meaning to send this to Dion Hollenbeck for inclusion in the kegging FAQ. Dion, you're welcome to it if you like. - -- Dan Hall Digital Equipment Corporation MKO1-2/H10 Merrimack, NH 03054 hall at buffa.enet.dec.com ....!decwrl!buffa.dec.com!hall "Adhere to Schweinheitsgebot Don't put anything in your beer that a pig wouldn't eat" --David Geary Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 94 15:59:03 EST From: carlsont at GVSU.EDU (TODD CARLSON) Subject: novice sparging questions I am preparing to try my first all grain batch and had some questions about the sparging process. I plan to use a spargatron (converted drip coffee pot) to deliver sparge water. I would appreciate any hints on the modification and use of this apparatus. I have made a double bucket lauter tun but I am concerned about the large volume between the buckets. Should I a) decrease this with some helpful hind from the collective wisdom of the HBD or b) not worry. Finally, when I do partial mashes, there is a lot of water/wort in the grains after sparging (crudely, with a ladle and a collander). In full scale, efficient sparging, should I a) stop adding water and recover the final runnings by draining the grains "dry" or b) keep adding sparge water to the top until the end and leave the grins "wet". Thanks in advance for the help. todd carlsont at gvsu.edu Philisophical Question: If our tap water, which comes from Lake Michigan, runs through an immersion chiller and down the drain into the sewer where it is treated and dumped in the Grand River which flows back into Lake Michigan, am I wasting water? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 11 May 1994 15:34:09 CST From: "DANIEL HOUG" <HOUGD at mdh-bemidji.health.state.mn.us> Subject: nerdy ramblings on nomenclature and sanitizers... John Palmer asked for clarification on ppm vs mg/l. Here's my attempt at making a mountain out of a mole-hill (chemists, get it?). I'm a real thrill at cocktail parties. YAWN. Parts per million is a common unit of measurement for expressing trace concentrations of the quantity of an analyte with respect to the weight of a sample. This can be expressed many ways as on a wt/wt basis, wt/vol, or vol/vol. Each expression has its associated nomenclature. All the below express parts per million or ppm: wt/wt = mg/kg or ug/g wt/vol = mg/l or ug/ml vol/vol = ul/l or nl/ml The easiest way to make sense of this is to equate ppm with mg/l, though this may technically get you in trouble with some really picky analytical chemists. Unfortunately, there is no other kind (JUST KIDDING). Sanitizers and you. Listed below are 4 methods of sanitizing (not necessarily STERILIZING) equipment based upon the Minnesota Department of Health food sanitation code. Your mileage may vary. 1.) Immersion for a period of 30 seconds in clean water of at least 170 degrees F. 2.) Immersion for not less than 1 minute in 75 degree or warmer water containing: a) not less than 50 ppm of free available chlorine if hypochlorites (bleach) are used. b) not less than 200 ppm if chloramines are used. c) not less than 50 ppm if trichloromelamine is used. 3.) Immersion for not less than 1 minute in 75 F or higher water containing not less than 12.5 ppm available iodine in a solution having a pH not higher than 5.0 4.) Immersion for at least one minute in water of 110-130 F containing not less than 200 ppm and not more than 400 ppm of a quaternary ammonium solution. What does all this really boil down to? Start with perfectly clean equipment, sanitize with boiling water or bleach. If bleach is used, shoot for 50 to 100 ppm (get your test papers!) which is a capful or two per gallon. Rinse off the sanitizer with boiled water. I think about 800 zillion other people have said this but its simple and works. My personal opinion is to not fiddle with all the other stuff. Usual Disclaimer: I'll deny everything. You're all adults, make up your own mind. All opinions expressed are strictly my own, not the MN Dept of Health, Clorox Inc., or those 800 zillion other people. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1422, 05/12/94