HOMEBREW Digest #1441 Sat 04 June 1994
Digest #1440
Digest #1442
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Shaken peptides, low CO2, dunkelweizen, HSA, Jap. beetles (Nancy.Renner)
Low extract, brewing books, homebrew clubs, cheap thermometers (Nancy.Renner)
A little of this, and not much of anything... (alan l causey)
Re: Bugs on the Hops! (Dave Coombs)
Picnic Tap and Hose Rinser (was: New Kegger) (Brew Free Or Die 02-Jun-1994 1639)
ginger, root beer recipes (Btalk)
Looking for a peculiar beer recipe (Debbie Gandert)
club ideas?/mailing (Andrei Alfred Fintescu)
First "pressings" (Fred Waltman)
Oregon Homebrew Festival results (Ted Manahan)
Phil's Lauter Tun ( LARRY KELLY)
(Fwd) Party Pig & Bluebeery (Paul Malmont)
German tested Extract Weizen recipe (PNEUMAND)
Broken bottles (Jim King)
micro-brewery festival (djfitzg)
Fruit beers (GONTAREK)
Starting the Siphon ("Craig Amundsen")
Hunter Controls (James Syniura)
Infusion mashing a weizen (Art Steinmetz)
San Francisco Brewpubs? (Jana Jones)
cooties in extract (Eric Miller)
Finish Hopping (npyle)
Dunkelweizens and beer color (Rich Lenihan)
Brew Cap ("Bill Knecht")
Summary info on New England Brew Pubs (R. Keith Frank)
Will trade spruce for chiles (huffmand)
Question on priming with extract (BAIER_T)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 15:33:16 EDT
From: Nancy.Renner at um.cc.umich.edu
Subject: Shaken peptides, low CO2, dunkelweizen, HSA, Jap. beetles
>From *Jeff* Renner
Domenick Venezia asks for the source of the article Mark Simpson quoted
claiming that head forming proteins were damaged by the "force and shake"
method of carbonation. It was in the article "Gas Gossip: Nitrogen vs.
Carbon Dioxide in Brewing" in the new (Summer, 1994) *Zymurgy*, 7:2, p.55.,
by Cliff Tanner, who, according the bio at the end of the article, is "a
brewer and member of the Northern AleStars Homebrewers Guild for 12 years,
(and) is owner of Braukunst Homebrewers Systems, a kegging specialty
company." The specific quote is, "Although some people shake their kegs to
speed up the carbonation process, this is a bad practice because the
agitation can affect shelf life and head forming capacity. Shaking breaks
some of the medium-length peptide chains necessary for head formation." He
gives four references at the end of the article but doesn't give a specific
citation for this claim. When I saw this, I wondered about it myself. It
seemed implausible on its face and contrary to my experience. I'd like to
know Cliff's source for this. Thanks, Domenick, for refutation from someone
who knows peptides.
Dave Draper in Sidney has carbonation problems. Dave, one first place to
check, although it's not too likely, is crown caps and bottle lips. Make
sure they are sealing. However, I bet that the change in extracts is the
source of your problem. I imagine that the dry extract you used in the UK
had more slowly fermentable residuals that added to the bottle CO2.
Assuming that you are looking for 2.3 volumes, a rather typical carbonation,
your latest try of 9 g priming sugar/liter should be right on. Here's why:
yeast metabolizes sugar into nearly half CO2 and half EtOH, which would give
you 4.5 g CO2/liter, which is 2.3 volumes (see Warner, "German Wheat Beer,"
p. 39). I think you've already solved your problem empirically. BTW, have
you considered batch priming? It seems to me to be a lot less trouble, as
long as you make sure the priming solution is evenly distributed.
Spencer Thomas asks for ideas for a dunkleweizen, and I though I'd share the
ideas I already gave him privately. I like to use Munich malt for
continental darks. I think it gives the proper rich maltiness without the
dark roasted flavor that is out of place. Since only 30% of his grain bill
is barley malt, substituting Munich for Pils would only give a ruddy color,
as Spencer points out. I have made "Munich" wheat malt following Miller's
(CHHB, pp. 202-203) directions for home kilned Munich barley malt, and from
which I made a dunkleweizen. I had no conversion problems, so enzymes
seemed OK. Spencer doesn't remember, but he probably judged this beer at
the 1993 Mich. State Fair, where it took a (probably weak) third (it was
newly bottled). A dark crystal would not be out of place, either. I don't
have experience with aromatic malt, something I intend to remedy. I think
chocolate malt, unless subliminal, would be out of place.
Having said all this in favor of using lots of Munich, I should offer one
caveat: I believe such dark grains are more susceptible to HSA. I have a
low OG (1.040) dark lager that was all Munich and some crystal that was
lagered for six weeks and then kept too long at dispensing temperature
(44^F). After 10 weeks on tap it began to acquire a toffee flavor, and
within two more weeks it had crashed and burned, become undrinkably wet
cardboardy. It tasted great when it was fresh. Polyclar at racking might
have helped, but I'm a careful brewer and hadn't had the problem before, so
I didn't use it.
George Cavanaugh has trouble with Japanese beetles. George, an effective,
"green" method of control is a pheromone baited trap. They really work. If
you can't get one locally, try Gardens Alive at (812)537-8650 (usual
disclaimer).
Jeff
>From *Jeff* Renner
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 15:35:54 EDT
From: Nancy.Renner at um.cc.umich.edu
Subject: Low extract, brewing books, homebrew clubs, cheap thermometers
>From *Jeff* Renner*
George Tempel (& Frank Haist) is worried about low mash extract. George, I
agree with Randy Davis, you've made a good start. But you are right, you
should be able to get a better extract. A few thoughts. Don't rush your
sparge. If everything is working right, you can pull the runoff so fast
that the sugars don't have time to dissolve. One gallon per five or six
minutes should be tops. This can especially be a problem if you don't mash
off, since they are less soluble at lower temperatures. You could safely
raise your sparge temperature to 176^F. Since you already diluted your mash
going from protein rest to saccharification, you may not want to add any
more boiling water to take it up to mash off. However, you may be able to
skip the protein rest in favor of a mash off. If you are using American two
row, a protein rest is probably unnecessary. You mention that your initial
runoff was a little cloudy. You may want to consider recirculating the
first one or two gallons. An additional advantage to this is you can use a
decoction mash off by heating the early runoff to boiling before stirring it
back into the mash, or at least the top 3/4, so you don't disturb the bottom
of the grain bed. You might also get a longer wooden spoon or paddle since
you said you can't reach the bottom of the Gott. If you watch your runoff
pH and SG (cool before checking both), you'll get an idea of when to stop
and whether you've left any "goodies" in the Gott. I like to stop around
1.005 - 1.008, as long as the pH is under six. At this point it has nearly
no color or sweetness. You might be able to sparge a little more if you
begin to boil after the first gallon (watch for scorching), thereby reducing
volume earlier.
Earlier, Melissa Schauder had some questions, some of which were nicely
answered here later. Melissa, I will fulfill your misgivings that someone
would suggest that you invest in a good brewing book by doing just that.
They aren't expensive. Now that it's the end of the semester, you must be
returning some textbooks for credit (you know, that "Seventeenth Century
Hungarian Cathedrals" that you had to buy for History of Art and then never
even cracked ?). I would recommend one of three, depending on your style.
Charlie Papazian's "Complete Joy of Homebrewing" is fun and loosey goosey,
full of recipes, and really encouraging in its "Relax, don't worry, have a
homebrew" approach. Dave Miller's "Complete Book of Brewing" is kind of at
the opposite end of the scale - scientifically oriented, more of why, not
just what to do. Miller's new book, "Brewing the World's Great Beers", is
in the middle, more of a beginner's "how to," but to my mind, better based
on good techniques than Charlie's. Any one of these would repay their
investment many times over.
You asked if anyone else in St. Louis brews. Indeed they do, and there are
two clubs. The aforementioned Dave Miller is now brewmaster at the St.
Louis Brewery, but he used to be president of the St. Louis Brews. Contact
Jerry S. Dahl, 9 Adams Lane, Kirkwood, MO 63122, (314)822-8039. There is
also the Mo. Winemaking Society, c/o Paul Hendricks, 2018 Norma Lane, St.
Louis, MO, 63138.
Brewers in the rest of the country - see the comprehensive list of clubs in
the new Zymurgy (the same one with questionable peptide information). Then
join a club near you. If you are a beginner, there will be lots of advice,
encouragement and feedback available from more experienced brewers. If you
are experienced, there is still more to learn, and you can offer beginners
your pearls of wisdom. I learn something new every meeting (or HBD, for
that matter).
David Lambermont asks about mash temperature and thermometer advice. Yes,
David, you will find an enormous difference in temperatures in a mash. Stir
with a good paddle (but don't aerate). You wanted a quick responding
thermometer. A dial stem thermometer is the ticket. Our local Sam's club
has a three pack of adjustable, one inch dial, six inch stem, American made
thermometers, for under $10! I almost bought a pack, even though I don't
need any more.
Jeff
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 14:36:40 -0500
From: alan l causey <alc at fiona.umsmed.edu>
Subject: A little of this, and not much of anything...
Fellow Brewers,
I asked a question a couple of weeks ago about brewpubless states...we
unfortunate souls seem to be MS, SC, GA, AL (?), HI (about to be rectified),
and PA (something about wierd laws). Someone also mentioned UT - but I seem
to remember posts about Utah brewpubs - maybe just micros? If you live in
or just love Mississippi - please write me - I have nebulous desires to change
our brewpublessness. If you have been active in changing the laws elsewhere,
your input would be invaluable! TIA.
If you are in the Jackson, MS area and are interested in forming a homebrew
club...please e-mail, regular mail or phone me...
Beer bellies are beautiful,
BA
Al Causey
Department of Pediatrics
University of Mississippi Medical Center
2500 N. State Street
Jackson, MS 39216-4505
(601) 984-5299
alc at fiona.umsmed.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 15:47:50 -0400
From: Dave Coombs <coombs at cme.nist.gov>
Subject: Re: Bugs on the Hops!
I guess beetle traps don't work for you? Hand picking is about the
only other method I know. I assume you use stuff to kill grubs in
your lawn so they don't survive to become beetles the following
year. Maybe local garden groups or your friendly local cooperative
extension agent would have suggestions.
dave
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 16:39:21 EDT
From: Brew Free Or Die 02-Jun-1994 1639 <hall at buffa.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Picnic Tap and Hose Rinser (was: New Kegger)
In HBD #1438, new kegger Bill Rust solicited clever ideas on how to clean
picnic tappers. I know where he's coming from. Soda kegs are very convenient,
but I always hated drawing one or two pints and then be faced with cleaning the
picnic tap. I never felt comfortable leaving it on the keg with its beverage
line full of beer, and I quickly grew tired of partially dismantling it to rinse
it out. So, a few years ago, I designed this gadget to make my life easier.
As with the Keg Pressure Tester and Relief Valve plans that I posted in HBD
#1422, the prices and catalog numbers are from Foxx Beverage Corp, September,
1991.
ITEM CATALOG # DESCRIPTION QUAN PRICE
1a Snap Nipple 1 ~2.00
1b Washing Machine Quick-Disconnect 1 ~5.00
2 05B01-296 3/4" FHT x 1/2" FPT Adapter 1 1.22
3 05B01-160 MP Reducer 1/2" MPT x 1/4" MPT 1 .93
4 15E04-450 Ball Lock Adapter 1/4" FPT x 9/16-18 Male 1 4.48
5 15E04-304 Liquid Tank Plug Assy, Cornelius Ball 1 4.79
________
| |
\ /
/ \ 1a Stays attached to faucet
\ /
------
DEFINITIONS
Q-D Quick Disconnect ___________
FHT Female Hose Thread < > 1b
FPT Female Pipe Thread | |
MPT Male Pipe Thread \ /
MP Male Pipe ---------
9/16-18 9/16" diameter, | |
18 threads per inch \ / 2
| |
| |
_________ This whole assembly
| | 3 clips onto Item 1a
---------
| | 4
_________
| |
\ / 5
/ \
\ /
-----
Items 1a and 1b are often packaged as a set and can be found in most home
improvement stores. The Snap Nipple (Item 1a) screws onto your sink faucet and
stays there. The Washing Machine (or dishwasher) Quick-Disconnect (Item 1b)
snaps on and off the snap nipple in the same manner as a ball-lock soda
disconnect. There are two types of these available. One has a small diameter
snap nipple and a smooth white plastic disconnect ring. The other type has a
larger diameter snap nipple and a white disconnect ring with ridges on it.
This second type of disconnect incorporates an aerator. If you are installing
a snap nipple to your faucet, and you have to remove an aerator from the faucet
to do it, continued domestic bliss dictates that you use the second type.
Item 2, the 3/4" FHT x 1/2" FPT Adapter, adapts (duh!) the quick-disconnect's
3/4" male hose threads to the MP Reducer 1/2" MPT x 1/4" MPT (Item 3). The
reducer is a means of adapting from 1/2" threads to the 1/4" threads of the
Ball Lock Adapter 1/4" FPT x 9/16-18 Male (Item 4). The Liquid Tank Plug Assy,
Cornelius Ball (Item 5) then threads onto the ball lock adapter.
I keep this gadget in a kitchen drawer where it's handy. After I've drawn a
pint from a keg, I remove the picnic tap, line and disconnect and bring it to
the kitchen sink. I attach the keg disconnect to the gadget, attach the gadget
to the faucet, turn on the faucet, and then run water through the picnic tap
and line to rinse it out. I know it isn't sanitized, but at least it's somewhat
clean.
I use quick-disconnects in many places in my brewery. My jet bottle washer has
one attached and snaps right onto my kitchen faucet for quick use, then snaps
off. My wort chiller has a snap nipple on it, and I attach it to the faucet
with a washing machine hose with Q-Ds on each end of it. I have a hose sprayer
with a snap nipple on it and, using the chiller's washing machine hose, I attach
the sprayer to the hose and the hose to the kitchen faucet, to facilitate
cleaning out kegs and spraying the cat.
Obviously, with a small change of parts, this gadget could also be used with
pin-lock disconnects.
Enjoy!
- --
Dan Hall Digital Equipment Corporation MKO1-2/H10 Merrimack, NH 03054
hall at buffa.enet.dec.com ....!decwrl!buffa.dec.com!hall
"Adhere to Schweinheitsgebot
Don't put anything in your beer that a pig wouldn't eat" --David Geary
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 17:01:21 EDT
From: Btalk at aol.com
Subject: ginger, root beer recipes
A friend without HBD access is looking for recipes for: 1) Root Beer Ale and
2) Ginger Beer.
Does anyone have good ones to share?
Thanks,
Bob Talkiewicz <btalk at aol.com>
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Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 16:16:28 MDT
From: Debbie Gandert <dgander%ccgate1 at intelect.com>
Subject: Looking for a peculiar beer recipe
Text item: Text_1
I'm pretty new to making my own homebrew and have mostly used
malt extracts. I'm looking for a recipe that would produce a brew
similar to the English "Old Peculiar".
Thanks for your input!!
Debbie G. <dgander at intelect.com>
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 15:18:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrei Alfred Fintescu <eaou288 at orion.oac.uci.edu>
Subject: club ideas?/mailing
Does anybody out there belong to a homebrewing club at a university? I
was thinking of starting one at mine and would appreciate any tips/ideas
about activities or the like. emailing me privately may be better as to
not waste space/time. Thanksalot.
Also, someone asked about mailing homebrews. I mailed a six pack, in the
cardboard holder, wrapped with some newspaper and bubble wrap, in a box
barely bigger, and they arrived fine. I did use stronger Pacifico bottles.
I don't think the stirring will be a problem if the recipient lets them
settle. What the post office doesn't know won't hurt 'em- just my
opinion on the alcohol mailing policy. One possibly major problem- it
cost me $11+ to mail the six pack, ups.
Beer for Peace!
A. Fintescu eaou288 at orion.oac.uci.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 15:04:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: waltman at netcom.com (Fred Waltman)
Subject: First "pressings"
Somebody posed a question a few days back about a Japaneese brewery
advertising that they use only the "first pressings".
That sounded familiar so I dug out "The Practical Brewer" and sure
enough the chapter on wort production describes the use of a filter
press for wort separation.
After the filter is full and the wort has been recirculated for clarity, the
first wort is drained before sparging begins. Some copywriter seeing this
might (I guess) call the first runnings the "first pressings."
Fred Waltman
Culver City Home Brewing Supply
waltman at netcom.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 17:16:18 -0700
From: Ted Manahan <tedm at hpcvcdq.cv.hp.com>
Subject: Oregon Homebrew Festival results
Full-Name: Ted Manahan
Results from the 1994 Oregon Homebrew Festival and Competition
Best of Show: Chris Studach of the Cascade Brewers Society
for his Scotch Heavy
The club competition was won by the Oregon Brewers Society
- --------------------------------------------------------------
LIGHT LAGER
1st Ted Manahan Munich helles Munich lager
2nd Kenton Cruzan vienna Graf Vienna
3rd John Sterner vienna
- --------------------------------------------------------------
DARK LAGER
1st Eric Munger Double Bock rejuventor
2nd Chris Studach maibock
3rd D & M Brockington Helles Bock Bach and Roll
- --------------------------------------------------------------
BRITISH PALE ALE
1st D & M Brockington IPA sister star of the s
2nd Randy Reid British bitter Black adder bitter
3rd Scott Sanders ESB Accidental esb
- --------------------------------------------------------------
AMERICAN PALE ALE
1st Martin Wilde American pale elmonica crystal
2nd Dave Mooney American pale Moonshine red
3rd Russ Kazmierzak american pale
- --------------------------------------------------------------
DARK ALE
1st Pat Savage mild aloha amber
2nd Donald Johnson brown ale
3rd David Hunter light brown
- --------------------------------------------------------------
STRONG BEER
1st Kenton Cruzan trappist ale Cruzers abdij
2nd Ted Manahan barley wine barley whine
3rd Douglas Faynor Imperial stout Dr. Jack
- --------------------------------------------------------------
PORTER
1st Griffith & Boach Robust porter Mossy rock
2nd Tony Rao Robust porter Bonnie porter
3rd David Hunter robust porter
- --------------------------------------------------------------
STOUT
1st D & M Brockington Foreign New Stout III
2nd Marc Worona Foreign
3rd D & V Gaillebeau stout nutley stout
- --------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIALTY
1st Chris Studach scotch heavy
2nd Marc Worona smoked porter
3rd Douglas Faynor Belgian Lambic Kripple Kriek
- --------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIALTY - FRUIT
1st Michael Fetzer Apricot pale missing link
2nd Steve Woolard Specialty Banana Wheat
3rd Micah Nasarow fruit Cherry ale
- --------------------------------------------------------------
WHEAT
1st D & M Brockington Belgian Wheat zoso white
2nd Michael Fetzer Wezein bock wheatahine
3rd Jerry Marshall wheat reprise weizen
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Judging sheets will be mailed out by June 6.
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 20:15:54 EDT
From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY)
Subject: Phil's Lauter Tun
Can someone tell me what level of extraction I can anticipate using Phil's
Lauter Tun?
I'm in the process of beginning an All Grain Brew, and have read in
previous HBD that one should know or have a good idea at what the level of
extraction should be with one's equipment when designing a recipe.
also can one take an OG before boiling to figure the level of extraction
pts/gal or can you only tell after the boil?
Larry
KMYH09A at prodigy.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 21:33:09 -0400
From: Paul Malmont <sinatra at pipeline.com>
Subject: (Fwd) Party Pig & Bluebeery
Forwarding mail by: homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com () on
6/2/94 8:58:00 PM
- -------------------
I recently read in The Ale Street News (a great beer newspaper)
about The Boston Beer Works's Bluebery Ale. Anyone out there
have a receipe for a blueberry flavored ale? (I haven't made
the jump to all grain yet so the simpler the better) Send to
private e-mail or post. Thanks Rich
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 21:48:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: PNEUMAND at delphi.com
Subject: German tested Extract Weizen recipe
After 3 attempts, I have finally perfected an extract Weizen recipe that even
the Germans at our Munich-based company approve of;
1 can Brewmart Mexican Cerveza-style kit, hopped
1 can Munton and Fison Wheat Malt Extract
1/2 # Wheat Grain, cracked and seeped for 45 minutes at 150 deg.
1 tsp. Irish Moss (last 5 min. of boil for clarity)
1 pk. yeast from Brewmart kit
Fermented at about 80 deg. and bottld with 1 cup Corn Sugar. Ready at 3 weeks.
Sounds strange, but came out excellent. VERY much like German Weizens on tap
in Munich. (not hefe or dunkel, though....still more experimenting to be done)
Hope this helps some beginners out there. ( And maybe some all-grain types
who are adventurous enough to visit this side of the fence for 1 batch :) )
I had tried the True Brew Weizen (with 2 Wheat cans) before with thumbs down
from the Germans. (and me too...) I also tried the above recipe with 1# Light
DME instead of the 1/2# wheat with similar results (thumbs down).
Dave Pneuman at Siemens Nixdorf Boca Raton, Florida
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Date: Wed, 1 Jun 94 20:35:00 -0800
From: jim.king at kandy.com (Jim King)
Subject: Broken bottles
Richard Nantel wrote:
H>there, I noticed the bottles in the center of the crate were about an
H>lower
H>than the bottles around the edge. I had time to utter one short %# at be
H>bottom fell out. (No, the box wasn't wet -- just old.)
H>All 24 crashed to the floor. Five exploded sending glass everywhere. A
H>noise subsided, I realized my left knee was badly gashed. The wound wa
H>bone and required 16 stitches to close.
Glad it wasn't worse. I had a glass S-lock shatter in my hand a
couple of months back, requiring 6 stitches, but luckily, barely missing
any tendons. It was pretty bad, too, because I was between insurance
companies for that ONE week, so the doctor bills ended up at around $700
before it was all over. I now use plastic air locks.
On the good side of the incident, I can now claim that I am willing to
bleed for my beer, much as Jim Cook would have you believe he does. :}
Jim King
jim.king at kandy.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 07:39:48 EDT
From: djfitzg at VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: micro-brewery festival
greetings all:
this coming weekend june 10th,11th. stoudts brewery will be hosting their
eastern invitational micro-brewery festival.
stoudts brewery
rt 272 adamstown pa. 717-484-4386.
no affiliation. hoppy brewing!
djfitzg at vnet.ibm.com
dan fitzgerald
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 8:24:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: GONTAREK at FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV
Subject: Fruit beers
Greetings to all of you folks out there in homebrew-land. I have a
question for you all. Being that the Summer is here and a local farm
will soon have pick your own blueberries, I plan to brew my summertime
traditional fruit beer. Last year I made a raspberry ale that was
quite excellent. I tossed the raspberries in at the end of the boil
to pasteurize them, and then tossed everything into the primary
fermenter. While the resulting beer had a noticeable pink hue and
tart aroma, it lacked the serious raspbeery (pun intended) flavor
that I was after. I seem to remember that at one point there was a
discussion here relating to the use of fruit in beers. So, my question:
Is it better to add the fruit to the secondary fermenter or directly
to the primary as I did? Does fermentation scrub lots of the
raspbeery character out of the beer? If the fruit is added to the
secondary, how is it pasteurized? In thumbing through the Cat's Meow,
I see recipies that use both methods. I would be grateful for any
answers.
By the way, if anyone wants my raspbeery ale recipe, email me.
Thanks, everyone, in advance!
Rick Gontarek
gontarek at ncifcrf.gov
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 07:32:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Craig Amundsen" <amundsen at molbio.cbs.umn.edu>
Subject: Starting the Siphon
In an effort to keep this thread alive, I have to relate the technique I
used to start a siphon last night. I was tranferring from a carboy into my
bottling bucket. I had the racking cane in the carboy, held in place with
one of those orange, two hole, rubber caps (I don't know what they're called).
The cane was stuck through one hole, and I blew into the other. This started
the siphon with no problems. This may not be too sanitary, but it can't be
much worse than what lands in the beer as it sits in the bucket.
- Craig
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 08:49:41 EDT
From: jsyniura at on.bell.ca (James Syniura)
Subject: Hunter Controls
Any Canadian readers know were I could purchase the Hunter thermostat control ?
I understand that the manufacture has stop production, but there must be one
or two left. Any American readers know of a mail order firm who has stock ,
in the U.S. ??
Thanks, I will post any reply`s I receive
- ---
||||||
(o o)
|----------------------ooO---(__)---Ooo----------------------|
| |
| James Syniura jsyniura at on.bell.ca |
| NTAS - Network Technical and Admin. Support |
| Bell Canada |
| Toronto, Ontario. Canada |
|------------------------------------------------------------|
|| ||
(__) (__)
||||||
(o o)
|----------------------ooO---(__)---Ooo----------------------|
| |
| James Syniura jsyniura at on.bell.ca |
| NTAS - Network Technical and Admin. Support |
| Bell Canada |
| Toronto, Ontario. Canada |
|------------------------------------------------------------|
|| ||
(__) (__)
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 09:24:39 -0400
From: Art Steinmetz <asteinm at pipeline.com>
Subject: Infusion mashing a weizen
Steve Zabarnick asks about Infusion mashing a Weizen with
W3068.
'd say go for it. The yeast does it's thing quite well with
infusion mashed extracts. I took 2nd place in Weiss Is Nice
last year with such a brew. You'll definitely get the
cloviness you seek. That being said I brewed one of Warners
recipes last month. My first decoction. It's fun and
certainly more intimidating on paper than in real life.
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 07:55:12 -0600
From: jana at niwot.scd.ucar.EDU (Jana Jones)
Subject: San Francisco Brewpubs?
I'll be attending a seminar in San Francisco, and will be there from June
19-24. Anyone know of good brewpubs in the area or any homebrewing
activities going on? I'm taking my homebrewing-husband with me, and would
like to surprise him...
Personal replies appreciated...Thanks!
Jana L. Jones
jana at ncar.ucar.edu
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Date: Fri, 03 Jun 94 10:14:39 CDT
From: Eric Miller <GHMILLER at MUSIC.LOYNO.EDU>
Subject: cooties in extract
hiya folks,
something someone mentioned a couple of digests ago about spoiled
extract gave me a spooky feeling. Is it possible that those pesky
bacterial cooties can invade bulk uncanned extract and spoil it?
I have some extract I bought a month ago that has been sitting in
an 85F cabinet...ideal cootie conditions (you may remember my last
post re: my bacterial problems) TIA for your thoughts
Eric
ghmiller at music.loyno.edu
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 9:20:19 MDT
From: npyle at n33.ecae.stortek.com
Subject: Finish Hopping
Larry Kelly asks:
>Can someone enlighten me as to which Hop type is best for flavor only?
>Also does the AAU matter if the hop is used for only flavor adding at end
>of boil.
This is like asking what's the best tasting food. You'll get more opinions
than hop varieties, and it really depends on what style of beer you're
brewing. I personally like East Kent Golding, Hallertauer Mittelfrueh, Saaz,
Liberty, Mt. Hood, and Cascades. Which one's are best? You got me.
The alpha acid percentage is not critical if added at the end of boil and
quickly chilled. This is because it takes elevated temperatures to
isomerize the alpha acids into their bitter components. There will be some
bittering contribution though, as the wort will remain at elevated
temperature for a finite amount of time (also depends on the type of chilling
and the method of finish hopping).
Cheers,
Norm = npyle at n33.stortek.com
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 12:18:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: rlenihan at marcam.com (Rich Lenihan)
Subject: Dunkelweizens and beer color
In HBD 1439, Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu writes:
>But before I start, I thought I'd get the "wisdom" :-) of the HBD on
>my side. Questions:
>1. Does anyone have a great all-grain dunkelweizen recipe? (That you
> will share !accurately! with me?)
>2. What's the best way, in your opinion, to darken a dunkelweizen:
> a. Dark crystal malt
> b. Chocolate malt
> c. Other "color malt" (Aromatic? Munich?)
> d. Other?
>
>My tentative recipe is looking something like this:
>* 30-70 Pilsener (DW-C) - Wheat (DW-C or Ireks)
>* Some amount (5%?) of dark crystal (Ireks 90L) to darken and add body
>* A small amount (2%?) of chocolate malt to darken and add a touch of
> roast flavor.
>* Double decoction mash.
>* 12 IBUs of hops, 60 min.
>This gives OG 1.052, Color 20L, which is about on target for the AH
>style sheet.
I just made a dunkelweizen this weekend. I would say, from reading Warner's
book, that the best way to add color is with dark munich malt. I don't
think (from memory) that he used crystal or chocolate malt in any of his
recipes. Since I could not find any dark munich malt, however, I "cheated"
with crystal and chocolate malt. My grain bill (for 5 US gallons):
5 lbs wheat malt
3 lbs light munich
1.25 lbs Briess 2-row
8 oz light crystal (20L)
2 oz medium crystal (40L)
2 oz chocolate malt (400L)
This, along with a 90-minute boil, gave me the medium-amber color I was
looking for. Time will tell if the crystal and chocolate will give the
beer an undesirable harshness. I think you'd want a fairly soft finish
in any weizen. I've tried this year's SA Summer Wheat (Dunkelweizen) and
I think it's too harsh, as well as under-carbonated. The color's right,
though.
Speaking of color and dunkelweizens...
Does anyone else think that the AHA color range for Dunkelweizen is
too dark? If the range is 17-22 SRM and 17 SRM = Michelob Classic Dark,
then all the commercial dunkelweizens I've had (4 or 5) have been too
light for style.
and...
Does anyone have a chart that compares degrees L or SRM with EBC? I have
the formula from George Fix's article but since he disparaged it and
since I hate math a simple comparison chart might be more useful to me.
-Rich
rlenihan at world.std.com OR rlenihan at marcam.com
- --
Rich Lenihan "It was like that when I found it!" - Homer
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 11:19:50 CDT
From: "Bill Knecht" <knecht at mind.psych.umn.edu>
Subject: Brew Cap
Hello,
This is about siphoning. I've been away from the Digest, and so
may have missed it, but has anyone tried a thing called Brew Cap? It's a
soft plastic cap that snugs over the carboy mouth. It has two nipples on
top, with a hole in the end of each. Into one goes the siphon cane, into
the other goes pressure from ye olde lungs. You blow into the auxillary
nipple, increasing the air pressure inside the carboy, and forcing beer
up the siphon cane & tube. No muss, no fuss. Works great. Cheap too.
Beer is not touched by human hands, so infection risk is minimal (of course
you might want to take a slug of Wild Turkey before you blow, purely for its
oral sanitization properties, mind you).
Hey, if this was already mentioned, don't flame me. I'm already
sufficiently crisp.
Bill Knecht
....................................................................
.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.
. William Knecht (knecht at mind.psych.umn.edu) .
. ...and now for your randomly-selected quotation... .
....................................................................
"Progress might have been all right once, but it went on
too long."
Ogden Nash
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Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 12:45:03 -0400
From: keithfrank at dow.com (R. Keith Frank)
Subject: Summary info on New England Brew Pubs
Following is a long summary of info I received from HBD repliers on
brewpubs, pubs, and breweries in the northeast, posted by request.
Many thanks to all those that sent information. Edited replies are
attached that contained opinions, since that seems to be what HBD thrives
on (names are deleted). Other sources that would be of interest but
too long to post:
1. New England Beer Club, Breweries of the Northeast, Release 4.0
File: Eastern.Brewpubs
A complete(?) list of breweries/brewpubs in CT,DC,ME,MA,NH,NJ,NY,PA,VT
with addresses, phone numbers, and in some cases, hours.
Sent by:
Philip DiFalco, SIS, Systems & Operation Management Development
FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20016 (202)752-2812
email: sxupjd at fnma.com (NeXT Mail Okay)
2. Global (no kidding) list of brewpubs, pubs, breweries, liquor stores
"PUBLIST" is a HUGE file with an incredible amount of information.
Broken down by country, province, state, and/or city. Contains opinions
as well as facts. Available by anonymous FTP from sierra.stanford.edu.
3. Book suggestion
"You really ought to get a book called "On Tap New England" by Steve
Johnson. It lists all the micros and brewpubs in N.E. Published by WBR
Publications, PO Box 71, Clemson, S.C. 29633. Phone: (803) 654-3360. (I
have no connection w/the author or publisher other than having bought the
book.)"
And now the summary. The information is specific for Boston area,
Massachusetts, Maine, New Hampshire, and Rhode Island. I would make one
recommendation from a very short trip to Boston in April - Tremont Ale,
served at the Deluxe Cafe near Copley Square. A new brewery, products
only available in kegs for now. Brewery tours available.
Bruce DeBolt
c/o keithfrank at dow.com
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
BOSTON - multiple opinions listed.
BrewPubs
Cambridge Brewing Co, Hampshire St., Cambridge MA
- Beer is very good and the food is excellent. Best brewpub in Boston area.
- I haven't thought much of their regular beers, but occasionally the
specials were \wonderful/ (Bronx Cheer Stout...). Food a bit random.
Boston Beer Works, Brookline St (across from Fenway Park)
- Good, avoid ball game crowds
- Excellent beers but it's a tad noisy here. Gotta try their IPA!
- Good eclectic food in fairly substantial portions. Wide variety of beers-
good flagship red, golden with raspberry or blueberry (latter very good),
stout, strong ale, lots of specials. Probably the best currently open.
WARNING: they're directly opposite Fenway Park, so they'll be jammed if
the Red Sox are at home.
John Harvard Brewpub, 33 Dunster St, Cambridge
- 'Nicest' brewpub, beers are so-so, food very good.
Commonwealth Brewery, Portland St. (1 block from the Boston Garden)
- IMHO the worst BP for beers. Serve everything in heavy thick glasses so
it feels like a lot but it isn't.
- English style, OK bitter (they've weakened the recipes in recent years)
and stout, OK food.
(This is the only BP I've been to in Boston and I didn't like the beer - B.
DeBolt)
- In the Boston area, my favorites are Boston Beer Works, conveniently
located directly across the street from Fenway Park, near Kenmore Square
and John Harvard's Brewhouse in Harvard Square, Cambridge.
BARS
Doyles, 3484 Washington St, Boston (Jamaica Plain)
- The best bar in city area. Very old and dark. About 25 beers on tap
and they're very good about keeping things fresh. The food is strictly
bar food. Funky neighborhood but worth the visit.
Sunset Grill, Brighton Ave, Boston, near Union Sq Allston (~2 miles from
downtown, reachable by public transport, "T" line)
- Most people consider this the premier beer bar but it's a little too
noisy and crowded for my taste. Widest selection of beer, food pretty good.
- Good food in large portions, ~300 bottled beers, and 70 taps (including
at least one great beer, Old Newbury, that you can't get anywhere else
except a small area up on the coast north of Boston).
Plough and Stars, Mass Ave (Between Harvard and Central Sq.), Cambridge
- Small working class bar with the best pint of Guinness around. Very
friendly atmosphere. The lunches are not to be missed - out of this world!
OTHER MASSACHUSETTS PLACES
Northampton Brewery, Northampton MA
- Nice place, the beer range from mundane (Amber, Golden) to some pretty
interesting (Holiday, Summer...) offerings. They also serve some guest
brews (Harpoon ...). A wonderful beer garden.
Amherst Ale House, Amherst MA - beer bar with a vast selection.
Spirit Haus, Amherst MA - liquor store, over 300 beers. A bit pricey IMHO.
(ie 5.95 for Lindemanns).
Latest best NE Beer ... Middlesex Oatmeal Stout (from Burlington MA I think)
VERMONT
As for my $.02 on the topic, you've got to go to The Vermont Pub and
Brewery in Burlington - Greg Noonan's place. Best brewpub I've been to.
Brattleboro
- Windham Brewey/Latchis Grill (Lathis Hotel)- good beers, good food. A
little bit of the yuppie wannabe influence. They are looking for a brewer,
bring your resume' if interested.
- McNeils Ale House (in the old fire station) - about 12 offerings on tap
plus a selection of other guest beers and a bunch of bottled products.
This comment from a Boston resident - McNeil's beer, atmosphere, and prices
better than Boston BP's, especially better beer.
General Vermont List for others
Bridgewater - Mountain Brewers, Bridgewater Market Place, Rt. 4
Norwich - Jasper Murdocks Ale House, (IN the Norwich Inn)
White River Junction - Catamount Brewery 296-2248
Middlebury - Otter Creek Brewing Co., Exchange St.
Burlington
- Vermont Pub & Brewery, Corner of St. Paul and College St.'s
- Due early summer, Magic Hat Brewing Co., Flynn Av.
MAINE
>From an earlier HBD post:
- Portland - Gritty McDuff's, great Black Fly Stout
- Kennebunkport - Federal Jack's, Brown Moose Ale and Blue Fin Stout, very
good.
Others mentioned, no opinions given:
Magic Hat--Kennebunkport??
Sunday River--Bethel
Breadloaf Brewery--near breadloaf usa (may not be open yet)
Geary's--Location unknown to me, available in stores
Bar Harbor--there are rumors of four breweries in this small town.
This is from a Boston resident - the best I have been to is found in Camden
(better than Boston area BP's), called Sea Dog. They have a very attractive
pub and conduct tours on Saturdays (perhaps more often in the summer).
RHODE ISLAND - only one brewpub
Union Station Brewery in Providence. In Union Station, across street from
new Convention Center, off I95. Five of their own brews on tap at all
times which vary from a characterless Golden Lager to a decent porter and
some good ales.
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Date: Fri, 03 Jun 94 09:54:37 PST
From: huffmand at ccmail.orst.edu
Subject: Will trade spruce for chiles
Sprucer,
To the reader who said they would trade some NM chiles for
Sitka spruce tips, please E-mail me - I deleted the digest
before I could copy down your address.
David Huffman
huffmand at ccmail.orst.edu
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Date: Fri, 03 Jun 1994 10:39:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: BAIER_T at SALT.PLU.EDU
Subject: Question on priming with extract
I know this is probably a stupid question, but any help would be appreciated.
I almost always keg my beer, but we all need to bottle occasionally for
friends, competitions, etc. I have been using the standard corn sugar
ratios.
If I was to use dry malt extract, how much would I use? Typical 'boil
with a little water and cool' routine?
Thanks in advance.
Tom Baier
Tacoma, WA
BAIER_T at SALT.PLU.EDU
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1441, 06/04/94