HOMEBREW Digest #1447 Sat 11 June 1994

Digest #1446 Digest #1448

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Sparge Temperatures / turbid wort ("McCaw, Mike")
  Re:Tannin Extraction (Michael Froehlich)
  bottle volume/priming rate (HEWITT)
  Hunter Airstat Alternative (Gary S. Kuyat)
  Mash Water Adjustments (Terri Terfinko)
  Commemorative Bitter (VIALEGGIO)
  BT Index (BTcirc)
  Racking wort to secondary in 8 hours? ( LARRY KELLY)
  Copper/brass in the primary fermenter ("JAMES W. KEESLER")
  A Sticky Situation (Tim P McNerney)
  Dunkelweizen (Marvin Crippen)
  Peculier Recipes (Simon W. Bedwell)
  Lids on steins (Derek Bowen)
  My first all grain/raspbeery ale recipe/KitchenAid grain mill (GONTAREK)
  Re: Wort Aeration (John DeCarlo              x7116          )
  Re:  Wort Aeration (John DeCarlo              x7116          )
  Brewpubs Denver/Copper Mountain (Ron Hart)
  neck rings (Jeff Frane)
  SINGHA RECIPE ("Bob Knetl")
  extract pale ale recipe (Jeff Frane)
  RE: comments from the bitter & arrogant one! (Jim Busch)
  thermometer correction? (RONALD DWELLE)
  First runnings/second runnings (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Skunkiness (Nancy.Renner)
  Closing Sankey Kegs ("Mr. Dudley")
  signoff ("Pete Brauer 312/915-6157"                 )
  This, that, and the other (Thomas_Fotovich-U2347)
  Beer's Law (TODD CARLSON)
  Clarification to Sankey sealing (Nancy.Renner)
  Physics ("pratte")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 09 Jun 94 09:18:00 PDT From: "McCaw, Mike" <mccaw at wdni.com> Subject: Sparge Temperatures / turbid wort Just wanted to add my $0.02 worth on sparge temperatures. I have a number of batches under my belt with my new modified keg 3-vessel setup. The first few times, I religiously kept the sparge tank in the 170 - 175 deg. range, and was puzzled by my long sparges and lower than expected extraction rates. When I checked the thermometer mounted in the mash/lauter tun, lo and behold it never got above 150 deg! Now this could be one of two things. Either it is simple thermodynamics (My mashes end up around 150-155, and I havn't been doing mash-outs), or Jack is right and we lose a lot more heat in the sparge plumbing and to evaporation than one would think. I checked this in my last batch - raised the mash temp to 172, and sparged with water at 175 deg. 15 minutes into the sparge, the mash/lauter tun temp was 150 deg! This boy is going to raise his sparge water temp significantly for the next batch. Now the question. This batch (my standard pale ale recipe), which is the first to get a mash-out, is the most turbid wort I have ever fermented! There was a lot of cold break evident in the line from the wort chiller, but the line to the chiller was somewhat turbid, and it is usually crystal clear. No big settlement of trub in primary. It has been fermenting for four days now, and still looks like a block of alabaster. Could the mash-out have caused this? (Maybe I extracted some more starch from the grains?) Gee, maybe I should pitch some Brett and see if I can get a pLambic out of it! Thanks Mike McCaw (mccaw at wdni.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 94 10:13:36 -0700 From: froeh at trojan.naa.rockwell.com (Michael Froehlich) Subject: Re:Tannin Extraction Jim Busch wrote: >Wrong again, Don. If you use sparge water above 180F, you are going to >increase the tannins extracted. Jim, Could you please explain why tannins are not extracted when doing decoction mashing which requires boiling of the grains and adding them back into the mash. As I understand it, tannin extraction is a function of temperature and mash pH. The lower the pH, the lower the tannin extraction. Thanks. Don't want to part of a flaming, but this issue is important as most home brewers would stay away from decoction mashing with your logic. Sincerely, Michael Froehlich |~~| froeh at ecrsb.naa.rockwell.com | |) "Cheers!" |__| Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 1994 13:29 EDT From: HEWITT at arcges.arceng.com Subject: bottle volume/priming rate Due to recent visits to Germany and an affinity for Tucher Bajuvator available in Virginia, I have built a sizable collection of 0.5L returnable bottles for homebrewing. They reduce the tediousness of filling 48 12-oz bottles per batch to a mere 34, reduce the number of trips to the fridge for refills, yet the volume is still low enough that it's not too painfull to give away samples to friends. Besides, I'd do anything to feel an inch closer to relaxing in a Bavarian Biergarten. That's my experience, now a question. The priming rate I've used for my all-grain beers (usually high gravity) has been 1/2 to 3/4 cup corn sugar. No problem carbonating at this level except it's usually much too highly carbonated. I'm aware that priming rates should be reduced for kegging and wonder if this is true in going from a 12 oz bottle to 0.5L (17 oz). Intuitively, it doesn't seem logical that the beer volume should affect the degree of carbonation. Is there any experience regarding bottle volume related to priming rate? Pat Hewitt Atlantic Research Corp., Va. Internet: Hewitt at arceng.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 94 14:26:23 EDT From: Gary S. Kuyat <gsk at sagan.bellcore.com> Subject: Hunter Airstat Alternative Full-Name: Gary S. Kuyat Johnson Controls makes an EXCELLENT controller that uses a solid state thermocouple design. This thing will go from -20F to 100F and supports both heating and cooling applications! It is a little more pricey than the hunter at just less than $60 retail. The Brewmiester in Cranford, NJ (1-800-322-3020) can will sell these for $58.50 each. I recommend this controller highly! It is TOTALY configurable, can work for heating or cooling, has an ajustable "differential" (the amount the temperature may wander off the set point) from 1 to 20 degrees Fahrenheight! It has C and F scales on the face, and can be mounted hundreds of feet from the cooler. In my use, it has been quite accurate. The only "catch" is that you'll need to get a short extension cord and cut it in half. Using a screwdriver you can wire the terminals to the cord in about 5 minutes. You end up with an extension cord with the controller in the middle. Then, just plug in anything, and you can turn it on or off when it gets too hot or cold! I don't have the model number off hand, but the Brewmeister will know what I'm talking about. Wiring is explained in simple diagrams in the instruction booklet. If you would even consider the rewiring of the Hunter required for lagering (unmodified hunter only went down to 40F) then this will be a breeze! - -- -Gary Kuyat gsk at sagan.bellcore.com (908)699-8422 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 94 14:29:17 EDT From: terfintt at ttown.apci.com (Terri Terfinko) Subject: Mash Water Adjustments When I started all grain brewing, I was advised to add 1 teaspoon of gypsum to my mash because it would help things along. I am seeking the advice of the HBD to better understand the purpose gypsum serves. The label on my gypsum container states that it is a water hardener. I do understand the importance of having an acidic PH 5.1 - 5.5 for mashing, but not sure why it is advisable to add gypsum regardless of water PH or hardness. I feel it is important to understand the makeup of my water so I had an analysis done. The PH of 6.1 matched my litmus paper calculations. I am not sure how to determine from the mineral analysis if my water is soft or very soft Here is the analysis report. I included the whole report since I am not sure which minerals determine hardness. What the heck does MG/L or UG/L stand for? Books I read referred to PPM. Any advice on mashing adjustments I should make would be appreciated. PH 6.1 T ALK CAC03 16.0 MG/L RES DISS/105 110.0 MG/L NH3-N .02 MG/L NO2-N .004 MG/L NO3-N 1.47 MG/L PHOS-TOTAL .03 MG/L C TOT ORGAN 1.2 MG/L T HARD CACO3 27.0 MG/L CA TOTAL 9.02 MG/L MG 3.06 MG/L NA 4.63 MG/L K 1.38 MG/L CL 5.00 MG/L SO4 TOTAL 23.0 MG/L SILICA TOTAL 17.95 MG/L AS 4.0 UG/L BA 39.0 UG/L CD 10.0 UG/L CR TOT 50.0 UG/L CU TOT 10.0 UG/L FE 334.0 UG/L PB 4.0 UG/L MN 31.0 UG/L ZN TOT 74.0 UG/L Terry Terfinko - terfintt at ttown.apci.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 08 Jun 1994 12:54:50 -0400 (EDT) From: VIALEGGIO at ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: Commemorative Bitter State University of New York at Stony Brook Stony Brook, NY 11794-5475 Victor Ialeggio Music 516 632-7239 08-Jun-1994 12:39pm EDT FROM: VIALEGGIO TO: Remote Addressee ( _homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com ) Subject: Commemorative Bitter Recipe to share -- a bitter brewed June 6, commemorative by default: 6.5# pale 2 row 1# biscuit 1# carapils .5# crystal handful roasted barely mash strike temp.=153 deg.(1.5 hrs. or so) mashout 168-170 75 min. boil, two additions of Fuggles/Kent Goldings, 50/50 proportion, aiming for IBU=32. 1 oz Goldings to steep (kettle off the heat). OG=.1052 Dosed with 1 qt Fullers ESB yeast. (active ferment after 6 hours; full speed ahead by 24 hours) vialeggio at ccmail.sunysb.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 94 16:30:51 EDT From: BTcirc at aol.com Subject: BT Index >From "Dennis Lewis" >Subject: BT Index >This past weekend I decided to put together an index of >BrewingTechniques. A comprehensive index by subject and author will be published in the November/December 1994 issue of BrewingTechniques. We use an index for our own purposes similar to Dennis' but organized by departments (i.e. features, technical articles, columns, and brewers' forum). It is updated each issue. Requests to receive this index can be made to btcirc at aol.com. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 1994 19:01:02 EDT From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY) Subject: Racking wort to secondary in 8 hours? I just finished reading Millers book: The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing He mentions that the wort should be racked in the secondary fermenter 8 hours after racked into the primary. WHY?? Doesn't that give a better chance to contaminate the wort? Yes, I know about trub build up, but if you pitch the yeast and the yeast finishes in a few days and then rack into the secondary, a few days is no big deal. So why does he say 8 hours? Larry KMYH09A at prodigy.com Return to table of contents
Date: 09 Jun 94 19:47:42 EDT From: "JAMES W. KEESLER" <74021.376 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Copper/brass in the primary fermenter I am contemplating using copper/brass fittings for my drain valve in my primary fermenter. Does anyone have any experience with beer having prolonged exposure to copper/brass? I do not want to spend the money if my beer is going to obtain off flavors from the metals. I asked this before, but I received no response: Does anyone have any information on whether there will be a second New York Brew Festival? I was under the impression that the first was a success, but have heard nor seen nothing if they are going to do it again. Any info appreciated. Regards, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 1994 13:25:33 +0800 From: tpm at wdl.loral.com (Tim P McNerney) Subject: A Sticky Situation The fridge conversion is almost done now (two faucets with the third on backorder) and I have run into a minor problem. Sometimes I won't have a particular beer for a couple of days and in that time the faucet tends to get all gummed up. Basically, some of the beer will dry up which makes it difficult to pour the next beer. So does anyone have a nice simple solution or a nice simple solution that takes care of this problem. I don't want to detach the hose after each use and drain the beer in the tube, which though effective, more or less defeats the purpose of having a draft system. Thanks for any help. ________________________________ - --Tim McNerney - --Loral Western Development Labs - --(408) 473-4748 - --tpm at wdl.loral.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 1994 13:20:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Marvin Crippen <mandos at u.washington.edu> Subject: Dunkelweizen Here is my recipe for a Dunkelweizen 7 lb Dark Wheat Malt 2.5 lb Munich Malt 2 lb Caravienna Malt .5 lb Carapils Malt 1 oz Hallertaur Hersb.(2.9 AAU) 60 m 1 oz Tettnanger (6.2 AAU) 15m 1 oz Hallertaur Hersb. (2.9 AAU) 1m Single Step Infusion (no protein rest) at 158 Wyeast #3068 O.G. 1.052 T.G. 1010 I ended up repitching the yeast from a previous batch (Room-mates bavarian weizen, D&M Brockington) and the yeast didn't create the banana & clove taste, but the aroma was right on. I think the yeast had just been used too many times. The beer scored a 37 and NHC and a 30 at Heart of the Valley. The NHC judges thought I'd used chocolate malt to get the color, go figure. I personally think the color ended too dark. Next time I'm going to try 3 lb Caravienna, 2 lb English Pale, and 7 lb Wheat. - -- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marvin Crippen Defender of Freedom, Arbitrator of Justice mandos at u.washington.edu All Around Nice Guy, NOT! - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: 08 Jun 1994 13:20:42 GMT From: Simon_W._Bedwell at metro.mactel.org (Simon W. Bedwell) Subject: Peculier Recipes In HBD #1441 Debbie Gandert requests 'Old Peculier' recipes. Here are two to try; I don't claim authorship for either: Recipe #1, reproduced without permission from 'Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy' by the late Dave Line, published (I think) by Kent's in the US. Recipe makes 5 UK gallons 4lb Dark Malt Extract 8oz Crushed Roast Barley 8oz Crushed Crystal Malt 2lb Soft Brown Sugar 2oz Fuggles Hops (Bittering) 3oz Black Tracle (Barrel priming) Brew using your favourite technique for non-mashed beer and ferment with your favourite ale yeast. Recipe #2, reproduced without permission from 'Brew Your Own Real Ale at Home' by Graham Wheeler and Roger Protz, published by CAMRA, ISBN 1-85249-113-2. Recipe makes 23 litres 3.3kg Dark Malt Extract 620g Crushed Crystal Malt 120g Black Malt 500g Maltose Syrup 500g Invert Sugar 30g Challenger Hops (Bittering) 35g Fuggles Hops (Bittering) 12g Fuggles Hops (Aroma) Brew using your favourite technique for non-mashed beer and ferment with your favourite ale yeast. I've left out specific brewing instructions as these are inevitably subject to individual preferences. If anyone wants step-by-step instructions, email me directly. It is interesting to note that the 'original' Old Peculier was fermented in Yorkshire stone squares, using a Northern England Ale Yeast which required frequent rousing to keep the fermentation going. The 'peculier' attributes of this type of yeast played a significant part in the overall flavour profile of the beer. Following Scottish & Newcastle breweries' takeover of Theakstons, 90% of O.P. now made is brewed by in large stainless-steel fermenters in Newcastle-on-Tyne, Northern England, using a more general-purpose yeast. Thus much of the original flavour has, in my opinion, been lost. BTW, Paul Theakston still brews in Masham (aptly named), Yorkshire. His beer is called 'Black Sheep Ale' and is well worth seeking out. Wishing you many trubless worts. - -- **************************************************************************** MacTel Metro - Europes largest Mac specific BBS This message was created from a user account on a FirstClass(tm) BBS. The views expressed in this posting those of the individual author only. Send mail to this user at either :- INTERNET:User_Name at metro.mactel.org [use underline] between first FIDONET:User.Name at f202.n254.z2.fidonet.org [use fullstop ] & last names **************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 1994 07:30:15 -0400 From: derek at bex.com (Derek Bowen) Subject: Lids on steins After seeing so many answers on the lid question I decided to get to the bottom of it. So, I called our office in Germany. Our beer guy there said the reason was just to keep it fresh. Afterall, the steins are usually about 1 litre in size and it may take quite a while to drink. However, this guy may not know the historical significance of the lids, (flies??), so I suspect that the reason for the lids is a combination of tradition and freshness. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 8:03:23 -0400 (EDT) From: GONTAREK at FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV Subject: My first all grain/raspbeery ale recipe/KitchenAid grain mill Greetings to all in Homebrewland. For those of you who have been following my first all-grain adventure, it was a huge success!! To recap, I made an all-grain golden ale with a minimum of extra expense. It has now been in the bottle three weeks, and it is very good. It was also the cheapest (ie, least expensive) brew I've ever made. I am now hooked on all-grain. For those of you on the edge on contemplation, just do it. My first all-grain batch was made by borrowing a corona grain mill from a buddy. Because I want to continue the all-grain brewing, I have been looking into inexpensive grain mills. My wife and I received a beautiful Kitchen Aid stand-up mixer as a wedding gift last year, and I understand that a grain mill attachment is made that is compatible with it. The price I got from a local distributer was about $180, but my Dad works in food service and can get me one for $90. Has anyone used this type of grain mill set-up (either for homebrewing or anything else)? Is it worth the investment? I would appreciate hearing from anyone with information regarding the Kitchen Aid grain mill. Due to many requests for my fruit beer recipe, I've decided to post publicly. Rick's Raspbeery Ale Ingredients 1 can Alexander's Sun Country Pale Malt extract 2 lbs. light dry malt extract 0.5 lb crystal malt 2 ounces Cascade hops (45 minute boil) 0.5 ounce Cascade hops (finish) 5 lbs picked and frozen raspberries YeastLabs Canadian Ale yeast starter 4 tablespoons pectic enzyme Prepare yeast starter a day or two ahead of time. Steep crystal malt in two gallons of water, remove before boiling commences. Add malt extracts and boiling hops, boil for 45 minutes. Add finishing hops, boil for 5 minutes. Turn heat off and add pureed raspberries. Cover and let steep for 15-20 minutes. Dump everything into primary fermenter (after wort has cooled), bring volume up to 5 gallons of water, Dump in yeast. Add pectic enzyme. Go in primary for 4 days, transfer to secondary and bottle when clear with 1 cup corn sugar. The original gravity was 1.042, final was 1.010 The resulting brew was very tasty, with almost a pinkish head. It was tart, not overwhelmingly raspberry-ee. Several HBD 'ers have suggested adding 1/3 of the fruit to the primary, and the other 2/3 in the secondary so the aroma and flavor doesn't get scrubbed away during fermentation. This is a good one, one of my best. Enjoy it, and let me know how it turns out! Cheers to all of you Rick Gontarek gontarek at ncifcrf.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 09:11:54 EST From: John DeCarlo x7116 <jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org> Subject: Re: Wort Aeration George Fix writes: >I am currently working on a new book (Principles of Brewing Science II. >Practical Considerations) which I hope to get to the publisher by >December. Wort aeration is one subject that I wanted to treat in >detail. Since this is something that has recently been discussed in >this forum, I felt some of our preliminary results may be of interest. Thanks so much for the info. I wonder if you are also covering the dynamic aspects of wort aeration. Two areas I have wondered about are: 1) How does the dissolved O2 number change over time as you are pumping into wort without yeast in it (is it linear or not)? 2) How does the DO number change as the yeast begin respiration? Another view of this question is: How much O2 would the yeast want? If you max out the DO then pitch, would the yeast benefit from more DO later in the process or is there enough already? Some people I respect feel that the yeast can take up O2 fairly rapidly, even while you are aerating, which might dictate a longer aeration period or perhaps a second aeration period an hour or three later. Thanks. John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 09:20:47 EST From: John DeCarlo x7116 <jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org> Subject: Re: Wort Aeration Oops, sorry my brain was on hold. I now understand that: >We are currently doing the dynamic tests, where O2 levels >are recorded as a function of time at various feed rates. means that the dynamic tests are still underway. So ignore part 1) of my post a few minutes ago. I am still curious as to the effect of the yeast on the dynamic tests or at least how much they would make use of under different circumstances. Now if only I could figure out a way to cancel my articles--the software doesn't like me because my "Reply-to" address is different from my "From:" address. Thanks again for your patience. John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 09:09:23 -0500 From: Hart at actin.rutgers.edu (Ron Hart) Subject: Brewpubs Denver/Copper Mountain I'll be spending a night in Denver (near the Airport) and then 4-5 days in Copper Mountain next month. Naturally, I turn to the local experts for advice on brewpubs. Please e-mail any comments of location and quality directly to me. If anyone else wishes a summary of the mail I get, I'll be glad to forward. Thanks, folks, and I'm looking forward to some of that Rocky Mountain brew! Ron Hart Department of Biological Sciences, Rutgers University Newark hart at actin.rutgers.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 06:45:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Frane <gummitch at teleport.com> Subject: neck rings A couple of brewers have asked about the problem of "ring around the collar" in their bottles, and wondered about the lack of any off-flavor. The answer is that YES, this is a contamination and YES it seems to be otherwise benign. I have run across beer bottles like this numerous times over the years in competitions (although not in the last several years) and even had a batch of my own once (a long time ago, sonny). But it does indicate a problem with sanitation somewhere, and is a gentle nudge to figure out where you're taking shortcuts. It will also cause an otherwise good beer to lose points in a competition. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Jun 1994 09:54:36 U From: "Bob Knetl" <bob_knetl at amber.spawar.navy.mil> Subject: SINGHA RECIPE Subject: Time:9:47 OFFICE MEMO SINGHA RECIPE Date:6/10/94 Anyone have a recipe for an all grain or extract version which approximates the great taste of SINGHA Thai beer. Please rely direct or to the HBD. If you live near Arlington, VA or are visiting check out the Crystal Thai Restaurant in the Arlington Forrest Shopping Center on Route 50 for some great Thai food! Thanks in advance, Bob Knetl Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 06:56:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Frane <gummitch at teleport.com> Subject: extract pale ale recipe I rarely offer recipes, particularly extract-based recipes, but this particular beer turned out well enough to share. I put it together for my Beginning Brewing class -- one of the perks is that I get to drink the beer. I've been trying to resolve problems with alpha acid extraction and the correct amount of Irish Moss to use, and this one has come very close to satisfying me. Effectively, I've doubled the bittering hop rate and the Irish Moss rate that I would use for an equivalent all-grain batch. Given that the process calls for boiling 1/2 the wort, this makes some sense. My process calls for steeping the grains at about 150F for about one hour before sparging them into a kettle, into which the extracts and necessary water are then added. I also pre-boil the water which will be added to bring the volume up to 5 gallons (I do it a day ahead and put the carboy into the hop fridge at Steinbart's). If I had access to a good laundry sink there I would force-chill the boiled wort before adding it to the cold water, in order to bring the temperature down quickly. The Irish Moss caused a *massive* break. Without doing a full boil and siphoning off through a wort chiller (which doesn't work for beginners, does it?) I'm not sure how to prevent carrying over the hot break. Ideas? Jeff's Tasty Easy Pale ===================== 7# Steinbart's Extra Light Extract (Scottish) 1# Laaglander DME 1/4# flaked barley 1/4# flaked maize 3/4# Belgian Carapils Hops: 1-1/2 oz. Northern Brewer pellets (ca. 8%) < after 15 min 1/2 oz East Kent Golding plug < after 60 min 1 oz East Kent Golding plug at end boil 1 Tablespoon Irish Moss -- rehydrated -- added at 60 min mark Boil 90 min. Yeast: Wyeast 1968 London ESB <burp> OG = ca. 1050 TG = ca. 1007 And about a 7.5 on the tasty scale Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 10:01:21 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: RE: comments from the bitter & arrogant one! Warning, No Jack bashing here!!! Bob writes: > From: Btalk at aol.com > Subject: insulated lauter tun > > For insulating the sides, I wrap a 48" Thermarest self inflating camping > mattress around the bucket and just tie it with two pieces of webbing. The > Thermarest is about 2'' thick and insulates so well that you can barely feel > any warmth on the outside of it after running gallons of 168F sparge water > through the grain bed. Plus the Thermarest is easy to wash. > An alternative would be to use an Ensolite camping pad. This stuff is quite > supple. You may be able to glue it onto your tun. This is excellent advice! I used Ensolite pads for quite a while and they really worked well. I got some truck bed tie downs at Price Club, and they hold the pads tight to the tun, giving a real good insulation factor. > > Besides, if you are into backpacking, the Thermarest is definitely the way to > go. Sadly, my brewery gets to use the pads more than backpacking these days. Jack Skeels writes: > My question: When this brew is done with it's primary, can I used my other > Sankey as a secondary? That is, has anybody done this, and does it work? I > figure that I can rack the secondary back to the cut-off pot, and then keg > it right back, after I've cleaned out the sediment from the secondary > fermentation. Is this so? Sure, it works great. Moving the beer can be a pain, depending on your setup. Sankeys work fine as open ferementers. Andy writes: > Mostly people are quite polite on the HBD. Where does Jim get his bitter > arrogance from? It must be all those Centennials and Cascades I use so much!!! You get much more bitter using these, instead of those wimpy Hallertaus! Bob writes: > > If you place your mash tun on the floor and pump up to the kettle you well > essentially have the same layout. This is the way my brewery is layed out. > It works well, I would not change one thing. Think about it. Bobs right(again!). Flow down, let gravity help you out. I brew in my backyard and run the wort into the basement to get additional "head" in the system. I also mounted the kettle on an angle iron stand, 4 feet off the ground. > Don't know if you'll be in Denver for the conference, but would be happy to > share ideas over a few. I always bring pictures of the brewery. Boy, I wish! Next year..... Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 10:04:27 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: thermometer correction? A dumb high-school chemistry question: I just bought a new mercury floating thermometer and discovered on my first mash/boil that it's off. At boil, it reads about 220-221 F. Can I assume the error is linear, always reading 8-9 degrees high? That is, if the thermo reads 150, I'm mashing at 141-142? Should I take it back and rant and rave and demand my money back, or is this normal? (This was just a cheapo K-mart kitchen floater.) TIA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 10:07:50 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: First runnings/second runnings ANDY WALSH writes: > ... I found Spencer.W.Thomas's post on first-runnings quite > useful. It would be interesting to know if the weaker, > "second-runnings" beer shows any phenolic or astringent flavors (I > chuck my grist out after the first one). Does it? Also, what > gravities do you get off the second runnings? I've made some quite good beer from the second runnings. They're not any more phenolic or astringent than a normally sparged beer, IMHO. "Second runnings" is perhaps not quite the right term. What I do is to re-infuse the mash, and then sparge normally, watching the SG, etc. The local water is quite soft, so I don't have pH problems; someone with hard carbonate water might need to acidify it, I don't know. The gravity of the second beer depends on how much sugar is left in the mash, of course. Let's look at a concrete example: 18 lbs English Pale Malt 1 lb Belgian Aromatic Malt 1 lb Belgian Special B Malt 1 lb Pale Munich Malt .1 lb Roasted Barley First runnings beer: Mashed with 7 gallons water (1.33 qt/lb), and took almost 5 gallons of run-off at about 1.088. (What I'd expect from my chart, although the amount collected is more in line with water retention of .4qt/lb instead of the .6qt/lb used in the chart.) Boiled down to 3.6 gallons at 1.122. This beer is still fermenting at 50F. (brewed 3/26) Second runnings beer: Sparged 7 gallons at 1.024, boiled down to 5.5 gallons at 1.031. I later added the "steepings" of a pound of English crystal to bring the effective gravity up to about 1.033. I brewed this beer for my wife's graduation party, loosely in the "Scottish Light" style. I wanted a low-gravity "poundable", but flavorful beer. It's got a really nice malty/caramel aroma, offset by hop bitterness to give a crisp flavor. I don't find any phenolic aroma or astringency in it. I got lots of compliments on it, from folks most of whom drink "plain American" beer (and a number of them said "I don't normally like beer"). We went through over 5 liters of it at the party (30 people), together with almost 5 liters of stout. A note: I got lower than normal extraction on the second beer (I was shooting for a "Scottish Heavy" around 1.036). I think this is because this was my first batch in a different system, and I forgot to account for the fact that it has a large "dead space" in the mash/lauter tun underneath the false bottom (as opposed to my usual copper-manifold in a Gott cooler system). Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 10:14:50 EDT From: Nancy.Renner at um.cc.umich.edu Subject: Skunkiness >From *Jeff* Renner Paul Huneault likes the skunkiness of imported lagers. Paul, some people will be incredulous that you like something that is considered a defect from exposure to light. But you are by no means the first person I have heard of who finds it pleasant. It's a neurological truism that the human brain (well, actually the vertebral brain, as cattle, elephants and birds have been documented to seek out fermenting fruit and become intoxicated) that when our pleasure center is stimulated by ethanol, we form a pleasant association with the delivery vehicle. Probably an endorphin release, everything seems to be. This explains why alcoholic beverages are an acquired taste, and why folks in other lands smack their lips over fermented mare's milk, masticated maize, rye bread and water, and other fermenti we might find revolting. (See Spring Zymurgy for some recipes for indigenous brews.) Your favorite, skunkiness, is formed when light of a specific wavelength strikes and modifies a certain sulfur bearing portion of the iso-humulone molecule (from hops) in the beer. This wavelength is fairly well filtered out by brown glass, hence the choice of that color for beer bottles. Those favorite imports of yours are marketed at home in brown bottles, but somehow, the US market has come to associate green bottles with "import quality." And, of course, your preference for these beers is because, even with a slight skunkiness, they really are more interesting than Schludwiller. So, your ever inquiring mind will ask, how does Miller avoid skunkiness in MGD in clear bottles? Ahh, those clever folks at Miller don't use whole hops. They use a patented hop extract in which the light sensitive portion has been modified to render it unreactive. Still want to make your beer skunky? Place it in clear bottles (or even the whole carboy!) in direct sunlight. I've heard that even 15 minutes will suffice. Florescent lights are also rich in the culprit wavelength. Want to avoid it? Avoid direct light, use brown bottles, and cover your carboy. Cut an "X" in the bottom of a paper grocery bag and put it upside down over your carboy with the neck and airlock sticking out through the X. Actively fermenting beers are not in too much danger from indirect light; the suspended yeast keeps light from penetrating very far. Dark beers are less sensitive for a similar reason. Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Jun 1994 10:29:58 -0400 (EDT) From: "Mr. Dudley" <S29711%22681 at utrcgw.utc.com> Subject: Closing Sankey Kegs Regarding Jeff Renners post: I have used Sankey kegs (and soda kegs) and I agree with Jeff, stick with the soda kegs for everything but the biggest brews. If your a glutton for punishment, read on... Jeff suggests leverage to close the kegs, clearly by his experience, this works To give another option, I use a brass drift I borrowed from my auto shop to drift the reatining ring into place. A friend planted the idea by using a plastic screwdriver handle but I got tired of messing up a perfectly good screwdriver. I also have an idea for a tool which will do it. Consider cutting a circle out of a piece of wood or metal the same size as the neck of the keg, then cut it through the center. By clamping it back together you have a lock underneath the ridge around the fitting. Now drill three holes and use a steering wheel puller and a socket (or the like) to press the center part down and insert the ring. Be careful with the seals I have no idea where to get new ones. I may construct a prototype out of 2" thick oak or another hardwood - as I think pine would split. If all this sounds like a fancy gear puller, it is - but the gear puller doesn't work because the underside of the fitting on the keg is sloped. I suppose you could modify that with a die grinder then use a gear puller but that keg material doesn't grind or cut very well (I've tried). I must admit these big kegs are great for a party but man, what a pain! good luck jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 09:45 CDT From: "Pete Brauer 312/915-6157" <$W$PR42%LUCCPUA.BITNET at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: signoff please sign me off this list, I am changing jobs. Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Jun 94 10:09:00 -0500 From: Thomas_Fotovich-U2347 at email.mot.com Subject: This, that, and the other Just a few comments: Twist-off type capped bottle: I have been using (and reusing) twist-off type capped bottles for several years without one mishap. I use a bench capper to cap both mead and beer in twist-off type capped bottles. IPA: BT has a two part article about IPAs (BT 2-2, BT 2-3). I was intrigued by the hops content (40-60 IBUs, and I thought _I_ was a hop head) and gravity (S.G. 1.060, F.G. 1.011). My previous attempt was approx. 20 IBU with a S.G. of 1.040 and a F.G. 1.015. This should be ready for the Fourth of July. Can't wait 8-). Jack Bashing: I find it hypocritical of the few who verbally attack Jack on the net then bitch that Jack is wasting bandwidth with his retorts. I know if someone lambasted me on the HBD I would response equally on the HBD. If you don't want Jack "wasting" bandwidth, don't post an EasyJackAttack (tm). Yes, I know Jack doesn't need my feeble attempt at defending him. I'm just tired of the Jack Bashing. HBD Content: I think too many people are uptight about the content of the HBD lately. I treat the digest just like a newspaper. I read the heading/title of the article/message. If the title doesn't tickle my fancy, it's on to the next article. I would encourage anyone and everyone to write to the digest (just make is sort of beer related). If Jack wants to talk about his mill, fine. If someone wants to post and ad for the next Easy* (tm) beer thingamajig, great. Flamings, fine. Misguide diatribes, okay by me. I have enjoyed the various "discussions" lately, all-grain vs. extract, you name it mills war, etc. In summary, let me censor what I want to read and what I don't want to read. #include <Standard.Disclaimer> Paddy Fotovich Motorola UDS u2347 at email.mot.com "I am, therefore I brew" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 11:32:01 EST From: carlsont at GVSU.EDU (TODD CARLSON) Subject: Beer's Law A Brief Chemisty Lesson: A number of recent posts have correctly pointed out that beer will appear much darker in a fermenter than in a glass. In case you are curious, us chemists quantify the effect with the equation: A = abc Where "A" is the absorbance of the solution, "a" is a proportionality constant called the extinction coefficient, "b" is the distance the light travels through the sample and "c" is the concentration of the light absorbing substance. As you see, the relavent factor here is "b". According to the equation, the absorbance of the beer will be dirctly proportional to the diameter of the container. This relationship is gennerally refered to as BEER"S LAW!! No Kidding. todd carlsont at gvsu.edu PS. Please, the correct units for extraction efficiency is (points-gal)/lb Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 94 11:37:50 EDT From: Nancy.Renner at um.cc.umich.edu Subject: Clarification to Sankey sealing >From *Jeff* Renner To clarify my earlier post: when you have the flat retaining ring started and the gasket compressed, the ring will slip into its slot fairly easily. Then force the ring outwards by twisting the blade of a *large* (I had said small) screwdriver between the ring and the reducing coupling or whatever else you use to press down on the tap. It should snap into place as you work your way around the entire ring. Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 1994 11:09:59 EST From: "pratte" <PRATTE at GG.csc.peachnet.edu> Subject: Physics In yesterday's HBD, Oracle Jack asked that we remember our physics when dealing with sparging. Since I am still a lowly extract brewer, I can't testify to the truth of this statement. However, as a physicist, I find the statement very heartwarming. A few comments on this raging debate on sparging temperatures. Let us first remember that temperature and heat are two entirely different things. Heat is energy; in fact, it is the energy transferred between objects of different temperature. Temperature, on the other hand, is simply the property of an object; namely, the property that two objects have in common when no heat is being transferred between them. There are 3 types of heat transfer: conduction, convection, and radiation. As far as sparging is concerned, I believe that radiation is not a major concern (I could be wrong due to a lack of knowledge about the intricacies involved in everbodies' processes.). Conductive heat transfers occur because 2 objects of different temperature are in thermal contact (ex. the hot flame is in contact with the cooler pot, so heat is transferred to the pot). Convective heat transfers occur by material movement and mixing (ex. you open the lid on the pot and the hot, less dense steam goes upward and mixes with the cooler room air). If you keep the lid on your sparging apparatus (apparatii), you should be able to minimize convective heat losses, meaning that the primary method of heat loss is by conduction. This makes for a much easier physics problem since we have a simple formula for conductive heat losses. It is Q/t = k x A x (T2-T1) / d where Q/t = heat rate loss (heat per unit time) k = thermal conductivity A = area of thermal contact d = thickness of insulation (ex. thickness of sparging kettle) k = thermal conductivity of insulation T2 = hotter temperature (wort) T1 = cooler temperature (room temperature) If you are trying to maintain a steady temperature in your mashing and sparging, you would need to minimize this formula. Just a comment on a few other things that Jack stated. While it is true that stainless steel is not a great insulator (compared to styrofoam or fiberglas insulation), it is a fairly good insulator compared to most of the metals used in pots. It has a thermal conductivity of 0.3 J/(sec cm C), which is far less than any of the aluminum alloys (1.8-3.0), iron (1.3), or copper (7.1). This means that it will loose heat at a rate that is 1/4 to 1/24 of that of any other pot (unless you use some other type of material for your pot). (Note: all figures from CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, 63rd Edition) He also commented on extrapolating heat loss based on what it did during the first 30 minutes (10 F lost). I hope that he is using the above equation when he is doing that extrapolating. You will note that as the temperature decreases, the rate at which the heat is lost decreases. If we assume a room temperature of 75-80F in the kitchen, then a drop from 170 F to 160 F means that the rate of heat loss due to conduction has decreased by about 12-13%. Therefore, it not just a simple matter of saying "10 F over 30 minutes means that 40 F will be lost over 2 hours". Sorry about the length of this post. But, it is a little less boring than sitting in a classroom for 10 years listening to it. So be thankful (unless you too are a physics geek). John Pratte Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1447, 06/11/94