HOMEBREW Digest #1476 Fri 15 July 1994

Digest #1475 Digest #1477

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Re: club bylaws (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Repost of All Grain Equipment and Hops Article (Arthur McGregor 614-0205)
  Helles bock recipe requested ("DEV::FVH")
  Honey (kit.anderson)
  beer bread apologies (Liana Winsauer)
  BUZZ-Off Results (Robert Mattie)
  CO2 chemistry/Malts/Skunking (Philip Gravel)
  Re: Dunk cooling (Aidan "Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen)
  Quick Ferment?? (Ratchet107)
  first batch problems (John Harres)
  Yeast questions (ELTEE)
  Re: Carboy Bunging Problem (Arthur McGregor 614-0205)
  wort splashing (Bob_McIlvaine)
  Carrying hot pots (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  no subject (file transmission) (Steve Scampini)
  Oak chips (Bob Jones)
  recipe request (Nada Khirdaji)
  Re: Trub & specific gravity (Brendan Halpin)
  Partial Mashing ("Palmer.John")
  Sake information please. (Jim Cave)
  Fruit Fly Beer? (Aaron Shaw)
  Re:  carboy bunging problem (STU_CEPARTIN)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 14:49:58 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: club bylaws John DeCarlo x7116 writes: > Can anyone explain why a homebrew club would *want* to have by-laws? An issue that has come into prominence recently is that of liability for alcohol-related accidents. (I.e., someone gets in a wreck on the way home from a club meeting.) Some clubs have incorporated in order to shift potential liability from individual members to the corporation (which is essentially penniless, so not a good target for lawsuits). =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 16:18:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Arthur McGregor 614-0205 <mcgregap at acq.osd.mil> Subject: Repost of All Grain Equipment and Hops Article Sorry for the messed-up post yesterday, don't know what happened. Hope this is easier to read. Hi All All Grain Equipment Questions: My wife just bought me a Gott Cooler for my B.D., so I shall be transitioning to all grain soon. I was wondering about brew pots. I have seen adds in brew supply catalogs and seen canning pots in department stores for 8-8.5 gal ceramic on steel pots, but they are listed as medium duty. I have also read in the HBD of some brewers whose ceramic on steel brew pots had the handle break off. How sturdy/reliable are these brew pots, and how would I know short of buying one? I know that kegs can be modified, but don't have one, yet, nor time to mess with one. Initially I would brew a 3-4 gal batch on my electric stove before investing in a Cajun/King cooker and working up to larger batches. Now as for the Gott cooler, I am thinking about getting a Phil's Phalse Bottom (tm?) versus a nylon grain sparge bag. Now my understanding is the sparging process is fairly long, so I would want to replace the Gott spigot with a open drain plug or such, and control the flow of water with a valve/restrictor of sorts. Does this sound reasonable? Does anyone know of a Gott manufactured spigot replacement part, and where to get one? Growing Hops Replies In June I posted a question on why one of my hops plants was growing like crazy, and the other ones weren't, and what fertilizer would be good for the plants. Below are portions of the replies: R.P. Mattie wrote: > Composted cow manure is a very good choice. The only other thing you might have wanted to have added is sand, which allows some air space and the growth of roots as well as beneficial soil organisms. The thing to find out is what kind of soil Ph hops prefer. the clay is quite acidic, the compost mildly so. You might want to add lime for its alkalinity, and perhaps some kind of calcium/mineral source. Go easy on these things, and miracle grow kind of stuff. Because they are so easily and quickly taken up, they seem to lead to a kind of soil burn out, which is bad for the living things in your soil, so bad for your plants in the long run, unless you like hydroponic gardening. You CAN add a high-nitrogen fertilizer, and the hops WILL grow MUCH faster, but it will be really leggy and flabby and not at all hardy. . . . L.S. Strohl wrote: > . . . hops grow very well here, and I think the red clay is the key because it seems to hold moisture when it is built up with compost. I grew hops for two years and finally gave up in frustration because of the ravages of the damn Japanese beetles. I am not sure how bad they get up your way, but down here in Fredericksburg they frequently reach epidemic proportions. > Oh, Cascades were my most successful hops followed by a Pride of Ringwood rhizome . . . J. Brawley wrote: > . . . have found that the Cascades are doing much better than the others. I put in two Cascade roots, one Pearl and one Nugget....the Pearl grew for about a month and stopped but the Nugget is just beginning to flower. Anyway, I have been using a little miracle grow every 2 weeks and otherwise add compost on a regular basis. I also found this semi-organic budding fertilizer made from ground up fish called "Alaska Mor Bloom" which is 0-10-10. It seems as though it has boosted the plants a bit...it also helped along some herbs that have been struggling this year. By the way, my other Cascade, a Northern Brewers, and a Hallertauer are now up at 5-8 feet. My one _Giant_ Cascade is up to 18 feet with lots of nice flower buds. Just hope the Japanese Beetles don't eat them! In the May/June issue of Brewing Techniques has an article on growing hops, and says that sprays like Diazinon and Malathion are available, but have 14 day waiting times to harvest if you use them. The gardening salesperson at the local hardware store recommended Liquid Sevin for controlling bugs, and from reading the back of the bottle, most waiting periods are 0-2 days before harvest. Anyone know about this stuff and if direct spraying on the flowers will damage them? As far as harvesting, I was thinking of putting the flowers in mason jars. I've seen that some of the vacuum/sealer machines have attachments for sucking air out of canning jars. As an alternative, I was wondering if the CO2 cartridges for soda water, etc, might be used to flush the air out of a canning jar before sealing. There was also a previous mention on the HBD about oxygen barrier bags from Cole-Parmer scientific catalog. Could those be used with one of those vacuum/sealer machines, and are they expensive? Email or post. I'll post if interesting responses. TIA Good Brewing, Art McGregor (mcgregap at acq.osd.mil) Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Jul 94 15:19:00 CST From: "DEV::FVH" <FVH%DEV.decnet at mdcgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Helles bock recipe requested I am trying to formulate a recipe for a Helles Bock. This is what I've come up with so far. 4 gal batch(fits nicely into friDge): 7 lb - Great Western 2-row (mostly Klagus) 3 lb - Munich (german variety) .75 lb - Carapils Enough Mt Hood(because I have this variety) at start of boil for about 25 IBUs Fermented with California Lager yeast at about 38F. Any advice(mashing tech., more or less of this, some of that, etc..) or additional recipes are welcome. I am shooting for the upper 60s for an OG. Thanks in advance, Dirk <FVH%C17FCS.DECNET at MDCGWY.MDC.COM> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 10:47:30 -0400 From: kit.anderson at acornbbs.com Subject: Honey HONEY BEVERAGES-THEIR SWEET BEGINNINGS by Brews Stevens (brews at delphi.com) The earliest alcoholic beverages were probably made from diluted fermented honey.In fact, the beer that the first Anglo-Saxons drank was a brew of water and honeycomb in a clay pot,with the possible addition of herbs for flavoring. Modern brewers have gone back to valuing the use of all natural ingredients in their beers. One such ingredient is honey. This sweet syrup is used in a variety of beers from herb and specialty styles to traditional and flavored meads. The use of honey has become popular with the rise of micro and home brewers. These operations generally make specialty upscale products with premium ingredients.These breweries are growing at a rate of 15-20% per year. Sam Adams recently released its Honey Porter and Rogue is using honey to augment the sugar bill in its barley wine formulation. Due to the popularity of home and micro brewers use of honey, the National Honey Board has commissioned the Bison Brewing Co. of Berkeley,Ca. to study the use of it in beers. The study investigated the type,level and techniques for adding honey into beer.Five prototype samples of honey ale and stout were developed.Citrus,sage,clover and buckwheat honeys were studied.Depending on the type of honey used and the type of beer desired,between 2-4 lbs.of honey were added per barrel(as % by weight of total grain bill). To achieve optimal results when adding honey to beer,honey's diastatic enzymes as well as its yeast and bacterial counts must be considered.Honey should be added in such a way so that it's diastatic enzymes(alpha+beta amylase) do not degrade the dextrins(non-fermentable sugars)into simple sugars, thus destroying the texture and body of the finished beverage. The yeast and bacteria in honey,which are generally in stasis due to the low water activity,can grow and proliferate when diluted during beer making.This can effect the microbiological stability of the beer. In order to prevent any complications it is important to pasteurize the honey and add it at an appropriate time to your beer. As a result,,a practical method ofpasteurization was developed by Bison. The honey is fresh,unpasteurized andits delicate flavor profile and composition is preserved by heating it to176 degrees for 2.5 hrs.under anaerobic conditions prior to use.Honey is then added to the batch at high kraeusen(peak fermentation activity) diluted to the same OG as the beer. The addition of honey is bound to decrease the dextrin content due to dilution as well as increasing the alcohol potential due to the high fermentability of its sugars. Therefore the brewer should use higher saccharification temperatures during mashing(154-160F) as well as start with a lower wort gravity to reduce alcohol potential. A subtle honey flavor is contributed using 3-10%by weight.Lighter honeys such as sage,mixed flower,orange blossom,clover and alfalfa are best suited for flavor additions. At 11-30 % levels,a distinctly noticeable flavor will develop. Stronger flavored hops,caramelized or roasted grains,spices and other adjuncts should be used to offset the tone. At levels above 30 % the beverage can be considered in a category of its own approaching mead. The stronger flavored honeys such as buckwheat or heather impart a distinct note even at low % additions.Eucalyptus honey is said to provide a medicinal bitterness to beverages it is used in. There are still ares that need to be studied such as the development of furfural and its derivatives(causing off flavors) as a result of heating the honey. FAN levels(free amino nitrogen) are low in honey and are generally offset by all grain worts but extract brewers can inadvertently be at levels below nutrient demand for the yeast due to additives used in extract formulation such as corn and rice. For more info contact National Honey Board Food Technology Program P.O. Box 281525 San Francisco,Ca. 94128-1525 FAX 415-340-8568 PHONE 1-800-356-5941 or American Mead Association P.O.Box 17511 Boulder,Co.80308 PHONE 303-442-9111 The American Mead Association was started by beekeeper and mead maker,Pamela Spencer Allen of Ostrander,Ohio in 1986.They promote the brewing and enjoyment of mead.The director is Suzanne Price and she can provide information on the culture and history of mead as well as materials on brewing techniques and ingredients. She has consulted for many brewpubs on the use of honey in beers. Honey-Chamomile Ale Recipe Grain Bill (per 31 gal Barrel) 2 row pale malt 37lbs munich 10L 5lbs carapils 3lbs HOPS Northern Brewer 5.6 oz 8% AA 32 IBU at 60-90 min. Cascades 2.8 oz 5% AA at 30 min. Fuggles 2.8 oz 3.4 AA at 10 min. Hallertauer 2.8 oz 2.9 AA at end of boil SPICE Chamomile 5.6 oz add at end of boil HONEY Clover honey 4lbs add at high kraeusen Get your brewing water to 100ppm Calcium,300ppm sulfate+30ppm Chloride Mash Temperature 155F OG = 1.048 FG = 1.012 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 15:07:18 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: Hop Characteristics I have created this table of hop characteristics for my own use. I tried to send it in a tabular format, but the list scanner for the HBD won't let in anything over 80 characters by. It's hard to do this table in 80 characters! My original version also has the values of acid for the hop flowers and pellets (where available) at my local homebrew supply shop. I suggest that if you want to keep this info, reformat it into tabular format, and place it in your brewing notebook. Good luck! Rich Webb Variety Source characteristics Range of alpha acids aroma use Best use Saaz Czech Unique spicy Czech/Bavarian Noble style aroma 3-6 V good Pilsners Liberty German German type aroma 3-5 Hallertauer German German type aroma, very mild, slightly spicy 3.5-5.5 good Viennas, Dortmunders, Munichers, Weizens Tettnanger German mild Noble German type, fine, sightly spicy aroma 3-5 V good Alts, Lagers, Wheats Willamette American Quality aroma, mildly fragrant, grassy 4.4-7 good Mild Ales, Pale Ales, Porters, Stouts Fuggles British Traditional aroma hop, spicy, mild, grassy 2.7-6 good Mild Ales, Pale Ales, Porters, Stouts Mt. Hood American clean German type aroma 4.3-8 good Kent Golding British mild, traditional hop 4.5-6 good Pale Ales, Porters, Stouts, Exports Cascade American citrusy spicy flowery fruity fragrant Northwest hop 4-7.6 mod all purpose, Lagers, Ales Northern Brewer British strongly fragrant high alpha hop, German aroma 6.5-10 mod German Pils Perle German German aroma hop with bittering potential 7.6-11 good Stouts, Alts, Wheat beers Cluster American mild, pleasant 5.5-8.3 mod Lagers Bullion/Brewers Gold British strong, pungent bittering hop, unpleasant taste 8-9.2 poor Stouts, Porters Centennial (CFJ90) American very floral with citrus tones 9-11.5 good Eroica American pleasant aroma, bittering hop 10-14 mod Chinook American good aroma, pungent, heavy and spicy 11.8-14 mod Stouts, Porters Galena American strongly fragrant 12-15 Nugget American bittering hop, nice aroma 10.9-16 good Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 17:51:17 +0100 From: Liana Winsauer <lon at pshrink.chi.il.us> Subject: beer bread apologies In HBD #1474 Jeff Renner caught and corrected what might have been a rather awful mistake on my part. Many thanks! He was correct in his surmise that I was referring to brewing bread with spent yeast, not trub. Being that my husband is still and extract brewer we have no trub. (Yes we have to trub today?) Many apologies if my mistake ruined anyone's bread Liana Winsauer lon at pshrink.chi.il.us Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Jul 94 21:50:51 ES From: Robert Mattie <Robert_Mattie%notes at sb.com> Subject: BUZZ-Off Results The First Annual BUZZ-Off AHA sanctioned homebrew competition was held in June. The results of the competition appear below for those interested. Best of Show Robert & Renee Mattie - New England Barrel Cider Strong Ales 1. Bob Kapusinski - Barley Wine 2. Bob Grossman - Belgian Strong Ale 2. Mark Rowland - Scottish Strong Ale Stouts 1. Paul Minoche & Stan Pilkford - Foreign Stout 2. Wayne Gisiger - Dry Stout 3. Gene Muller - Dry Stout Dark Ales 1. Jonathan Zang - Robust Porter 2. Fred Hardy - Robust Porter 3. David Houseman - Robust Porter 3. Kevin Stayer - Brown Ale American Pale Ale 1. Terry Terfinke - American Pale Ale 2. Bill Szymchak - American Pale Ale 3. No third Awarded English Pale Ale 1. Donald Burns - English Pale 2. Barry DeLapp - ESB 2. Dave Joyce - English Pale Dark Lagers 1. A.J. Delange - Bock 2. Jonathan Zang - Am Dark Lager 3. Rich Warren - Dopplebock Light Lagers 1. Barry DeLapp - German Pils 2. Bob Kapusinski - Bohemian Pils 3. A.J. Delange - Bohemian Pils Belgian Ales 1. Tony Knipling - Peche Lambic 2. Mark Simpson - Wit 3. Jay White - Peche Lambic Specialties 1. Robin Tama & Gene Muller - Coriander Orange 2. Fred Hardy - American Wheat/Honey 3. Renee Mattie & Robert Mattie - Raspberry Ale Meads & Ciders 1. Robert Mattie & Renee Mattie - New England Barrel Cider 2. Bob Grossman - Sweet Ginger Mead 3. David Houseman - Sparlking Cider 3. Chris Balboni - Traditional Mead Wheat 1. David Houseman - Berliner Weisse 2. Doug Buddle - Weizen 3. Fred Hardy - Dunkleweizen Mixed Ales 1. Andy Grigg - CA Common 2. Mike Lelivelt - Alt 3. Joe Mezo - Kolsch Labels 1. Doug Buddle & Keven Cradell - Decemberfest 2. Alex Heisterkamp- Valerie's Lovely..... 3. Rich Rosowski - Liberty Lager Most Thirst Quenching Joe Mezo - Kolsch Congratulations go to Bob Grossman, Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year, awarded at the conclusion of BUZZ-Off. We would like to thank the entrants, judges, stewards, Philadelphia area homebrew stores, and Nick Funnell (head brewer - Dock Street) for their participation in our competition. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 94 22:33 CDT From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel) Subject: CO2 chemistry/Malts/Skunking ===> John L. Isenhour asks about C02 + H2O chemistry: >I was having a discussion with a biochemist recently and they told me >something I dont understand. They said that when CO2 is dissolved in >water it becomes bicarbonate, will make the PH of the water more basic >and this can be removed by boiling (it will precipitate) and is a >buffer. My (limited) understanding was that dissolved CO2 becomes >carbonic acid. I was told that it became bicarbonate when it was >dissolved and was carbonic acid when not (?). This conflicted with >what I understood so I then injected some CO2 into carbon filtered >water and the PH became more acidic. Then I got to see chemical >drawings of bicarbonates and how they were buffers and was told that >the chemical reactions were quite complex. I get the feeling the >person is familiar with blood gas exchange which might be quite >different from CO2 and water. Can someone explain what the case >really is? In pure water, CO2 combines with water to form carbonic acid: CO2 + H2O <====> H2CO3 (<====> indicates a reversible reaction) Carbonic acid is a weak acid and dissociates slightly: H2CO3 <===> H+ + HCO3- <====> 2 H+ + CO3= HCO3- is the bicarbonate ion. Sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3) is also known as baking soda. Thus adding CO2 to water cause it to be come slightly acidic. If the water is slightly basic because of dissolved carbonates, adding CO2 will cause it to become somewhat more acidic: H20 + C02 <====> H2CO3 + CaCO3 <====> Ca(HCO3)2 The carbonic acid reacts with the carbonate salt to form the bicarbonate. If a solution containing calcium bicarbonate were heated, the CO2 will be driven off the shifting the reactions to the left. Calcium carbonate will be formed as a result. Upon prolonged heating and evaporation of the water calcium carbonate will precipitate from solution. In none of these reactions does the addition of CO2 cause the solution to become basic. Without seeing specific chemical reactions, it's not clear what your biochemist friends are referring to. ===> Raymun at delphi.com asks about grain types: >Can some explain to me what is the difference between all the grains >out there in brew world. > >Like for example: > >What is the difference between malts from the USA, Belgium, Germany >or England? > >And what types of beers should use what type of grain? [other examples deleted for brevity...] You'll find all the answer to all these questions in the Malt FAQ. As soon as someone writes it, that is. ;-) ===> Paul Murray writes about skunked beer: >I don't want to revive the "zoolgical zymurgy" thread by suggesting that >Heineken make their beer with skunks :-) but in reply to the theories >about the skunkiness of Heineken, go to Europe and drink a Heineken (it >doesn't taste skunky). Go to the U.S. (I would imagine) or Australia (as >I have done), and you will find that La Belle Strasbourg (from Fisher), >Young's Ram Rod, and even Pilsner Urquell sometimes taste of skunk. The >orthodox explanation is that beer becomes light struck and the isohumulone >(from the hop oils) breaks down into mercaptans & fusel alcohol causing >the skunk flavour. Somebody out there should be able to correct this as >I'm sure it's only half right. The following discussion on the photochemical reactions that produce skunked beer appeared recently in rec.crafts.brewing: -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- From: rcpj at panix.com (Pierre Jelenc) Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing Subject: Re: Irradiated beer Date: 11 Jul 1994 23:53:09 -0400 In article <2vspgd$gmu at news.mic.ucla.edu>, Robert Lloyd <rlloyd at inherit2.dna.ucla.edu> wrote: >1) What the %$#*&^% is a Norrish type II cleavage? It's actually Type I (one). I pressed too hard on the key. What it is, is a very efficient rearrangement of a specific structure containing ketones and CC double bonds. Absorption of light causes such a structure to shift electrons around, and to cleave the molecule. What happens next depends on the exact structure, but in the case of iso-humulone there is loss of carbon monoxide, and generation of the precursor to 3-methyl-2-butene thiol, aka oil of skunk. >2) Could you please give me an IUPAC (International Union of Pure and >Applied Chemistry) name for iso-humulone? :-) The reason for trivial names, is precisely so that one does not need to bother with bigger mouthfuls! >3) "a methylbutylene free radical that abstracts a sulfur from any >>nearby protein" Sounds good in theory -- any Literature citations? Blondeel ets al, J. Chem. Soc. Perkin Trans. I, 2715 (1987) Yamanishi & Obata, Bull. Soc. Chem. Japan. _22_ 247 (1949) _23_ 125 (1950) >4) "Creates much more reactive radicals that deactivate instantly, >mostly against water. " Are we talking hydroxyl radical here? Hydroxyl >radical would react with many types of molecules and virtually any >organic molecule not just water, definitely could alter taste. Hydroxyl radicals are very energetic, whereas those produced by such a reaction are not, so very likely there would not be any significant amount. Furthermore, beer is mostly water, so highly reactive radicals will react mostly with water. Of course, they could cause taste alterations, but not skunking. >5) "Non-isomerized hops constituents are not subject to such a >photochemical >>cleavage, which is why hops do not skunk on the vine." You've got to be >kidding :-) What the %$#*&^% is an isomerized hop -- let alone a >Non-isomerized hop. This would be the greatest IUPAC name of all time. > >Whoa, I just realized that I may have misread that last line but just in >case I did not I'll leave that last point in. Besides it's kinda funny. The point of boiling hops, is to heat-isomerize the "alpha acids", which have very little taste and are insoluble into "iso alpha acids", which are bitter and water soluble. The alpha acids are collectively known as humulones (the beta acids are known as lupolones), and the isomerized products as iso-humulones. Because the photoreaction requires a ketone group, hydrogenated iso alpha acids are light stable. They are used by the makers of clear-bottle beer, such as Miller. Pierre (Better living through chemistry) - -- Pierre Jelenc * You get wise by watching what happens to you when * rcpj at panix.com * you're not. Andy Capp * -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Hope this helps. - -- Phil _____________________________________________________________ Philip Gravel pgravel at mcs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 94 14:17:54 EST From: Aidan "Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen <aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au> Subject: Re: Dunk cooling Full-Name: Aidan "Krausen Kropping Kiwi" Heerdegen Steve Scampini <scampini at hp-and.an.hp.com> wrote: * Also, with no cooling apparatus in the pot, it should be possible * to try an idea I have been toying with which is to make a big * screen plunger which exits through a hole in the lid. At the end * of the cooling, the plunger (equal diameter to the inner diameter * of the pot) is pushed down to the bottom of the pot thus trapping * all the slud...I mean solids at the bottom of the pot. WOW! You have invented the BEER-BODUM !! Better (tm) that sucker before Jack gets to it! Sorry ... I couldn't resist. Todd Carlson's explanation of carbonate equilibria in water was very educational ... I think it is worht posting to the HBD (hell I have seen longer posts with less content before ... so of mine come to mind). Does anyone have any comments on the Dear Old Dead Dave (DODD) Line's lauter tun design, where he has a shower rose covered with a pot scrubber thingy. Does it do as good a job as a manifold or an EASYMASHER (tm) for a chiller type mash/lauter tun? Aidan e-mail: aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 94 00:40:32 EDT From: Ratchet107 at aol.com Subject: Quick Ferment?? I have just prepared a batch of Lips Lager (made as an ale) using edme dry yeast, carefully pitched into the wort at 75 degrees F. The vigorous primary ferment lasted for about 12 hrs when it rapidly tapered off and almost stopped after only 36 hrs. The temp in my appt. is usually around 78 degrees. I have never experienced such a rapid slowing of the fermentation in my vast experience as a Homebrewer (now going on brew #6)! Can anyone tell me if this is typical of an infection? I don't know if I should bottle it, relax DW&HAHB, or trash it and try again. I would appreciate any advice. Dennis Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 13 Jul 1994 16:22:22 -0600 From: John Harres <Harres at UWyo.Edu> Subject: first batch problems Sorry this is so long, but hopefully somewhere in the details is the problem! Well, I started my first batch Monday the 11th, and having experienced a few problems, I thought I'd ask for suggestions. I tried to make something similar to Papazian's Wise Ass Red Bitter. I boiled 2 cups water, took it off the heat, added 2oz of crushed roasted barley, and then let that sit while I got 3 gallons of water boiling. Once it came to a boil, I took it off the heat and stirred in 6.5 lbs of amber malt syrup and strained/sparged the barley into the pot. I put it back on the heat and went back to rinsing my bleached carboy. Naturally, it boiled over, but I didn't lose much. I got a more stable boil going, and added 2oz Fuggle hops pellets. At -15, I added 1/2 tsp Irish Moss, and at -10 my wort chiller. At 0, I removed it from the heat, added 2oz Goldings hops pellets, and then fired up the chiller. About 15 minutes later, I checked the temp, and it was a happy 80 F., so I gave it another 5 minutes and it was down to 75, so I turned it off. I then proceeded to siphon off the wort, got down to the gunk in the bottom of the pot, and saw that I only had about 1.5 gallons in the carboy. At that point I grabbed my (sanitized) funnel with a screen and poured in the rest. After some stirring on the screen, I ended up with an additional 1/2 gallon or so in the carboy. I added my Wyeast American Ale yeast, which I'd had in a 1 liter starter for a day since it had plumped, and dumped it in, stoppered it up and gave a good shake, then topped it up to 5 gallons. I airlocked it, then realized about a half hour later that I'd not taken a specific gravity. I poured one cylinder-ful out, and took the OG. It was 1.020! Not exactly what I was looking for. I went ahead and re-airlocked it and let it go. Within six hour it was in the 30-40 bloops/minute range, and by the time I went to bed some 12 hours later, it was at about 50-60. It's now two days later, and it's, unfortunately, down to about 50 seconds between bloops. Here's the questions: Why the low OG? Is the 1 bloop/minute a problem? When should I rack it to the secondary? My plans now include getting a bigger brewpot, and maybe a new hydrometer. It came with no scale for correcting for temperature, but I can only assume that taking the SG with the liquid a bit warm would lower the measurement, but I have no idea how much. Like I said, the wort was at about 75 when I pitched. Thanks for your time! John - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ John Harres | "The light works," he said, indicating the window, "the | gravity works," he said, dropping a pencil on the floor. harres at uwyo.edu | "Anything else we have to take our chances with." | -- Dirk Gently (by Douglas Adams) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 1994 07:00:50 -0400 (EDT) From: ELTEE at delphi.com Subject: Yeast questions I want to make a mead and have some Red Star Champagne yeast. I know their beer yeast takes a lot of bashing, but what about this one? After the mead it's time for the Oktoberfest. I can't lager so I need to ferment at room temps. What's better, German lager, German ale, or steam yeast? Please suggest a Wyeast number. Email if possible, I'm WAY behind in reading HBD. TIA hoppy brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 1994 07:58:30 -0400 (EDT) From: Arthur McGregor 614-0205 <mcgregap at acq.osd.mil> Subject: Re: Carboy Bunging Problem Tony McCauley asked how to remove a Bung from a carboy. I'll guess it is a typical rubber stopper (with or without a hole in it). - If is with a hole: Use a racking tube and push into stopper (stopper should be with smaller end facing up), then put soapy water around inside of carboy neck, and try to pull out. Alternately you could turn carboy over and jiggle till small end of stopper rests in carboy neck, then use needle nose pliers and remove. Place one end of pliers into hole other on outside of stopper and pull. - If it is without a hole: More difficult. May have to destroy stopper to save carboy. Might try to chill carboy in fridge or ice bath, then when cold, shake stopper into opening of carboy (again with inside neck lubricated with soapy water and small end of stopper facing out). Keep carboy upside down while running warm water over bottom and sides of carboy to heat inside air. As air expands, pressure inside carboy may be enough to push stopper out. Alternately, may try a strong coat hanger and propane torch. Get end of hanger very hot (red?) and quickly push into stopper (again with small end facing upwards), and let cool, then apply soap water to inside of carboy neck and pull out. One last suggestion is a knife attached to pole and try to stick into stopper and pull out. Good luck! Art McGregor (mcgregap at acq.osd.mil) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 94 09:18:08 EDT From: Bob_McIlvaine at keyfile.com Subject: wort splashing I've read some interesting posts about aeration of wort on it's way into the carboy (ie. splashing into the carboy). One said with no qualification, "No, Don't Do It". Well this **should** be qualified, "No, Don't Do It with hot wort". THis will indeed lead to the card board taste, the dreaded HSA (HotSideAeration). On the other hand, if you cool your wort to pitching temp then aerate it, this will give the yeasties plenty of O2 to get started. This is desirable. This is my method. After chilling to pitch temp, I hook up a hose to my boiler to drain the wort to the fermenter. This hose has had a drill passed through it at 90 degree angles about 4 inches from the end. This allows the wort to suck air throught the holes as it passes by. This actually ends up with a large froth in the carboy. Using this method for many batches, I've never had an infection or the dreaded HSA. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 94 09:45:28 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Carrying hot pots My suggestion is this: review and revise your brewing practice so that you don't have to lift/move/carry a full pot of hot wort. It's just a recipe for eventual disaster. =Spencer in Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 94 10:15:44 EDT From: Steve Scampini <scampini at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: no subject (file transmission) Concerning a better handle for 33 quart enameled pots. I agree that the spot welded handles are a joke. The idea presented for a collar style handle was interesting but for lifting the ptot, but I am not sure how it would work for tipping and pouring the wort when it was cooled. One material to consider for such a handle is good old plywood. It is easily machined with commonly available tools. It will burn of, of course and is prone to getting dirty unless sealed with some paint or such. Another option is to attach better metal handles in a more robust fashion. The temptation is to drill holes and use bolts but then there is the rust problem. I was wondering if it might be possible to clamp metal handles below the rim using one of those pallet banding system like they use to place metal straps around crates. No good answers, lots of questions. Getting the bung out of the carboy is a great problem! My first thought is some bad-a** solvent that would munch on the rubber (latex?). Maybe lacquer thinner of course used with the upmost care (wear goggles, fire hazard, etc.). Leave some in the carboy for a while. Do a test by placing a bung in a coffee can with some thinner for a couple of days and see what happens. Someone might suggest pressurizing the inside of the carboy and blowing the bung out...my guess would be exploding carboy time. Don't "brick" the carboy just yet (this is more fun than thinking about A/B, grain mills or even Zima. P.S . I talked to a guy who lived in Saudi Arabia for four years. Of course, alcohol is illegal so there is lots of "homebrewers". He is from Europe and is used to real beer. His recipe: Buy a bunch of non-alcoholic "malt" beer (over 25 types available in Saudi). Throw a bunch of sugar in the "beer". Add "yeast" (probably champagne). Brew up to 11% alcohol!!. Mix some non-alcoholic beer back in to cut back to "normal " beer %. Ymmmm. Told me that sometimes you get gushers. I told him about sanitation which came as somewhat of a learning experience. Now that is down-home brewing. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 1994 07:43:44 +0900 From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) Subject: Oak chips On a recent trip to England and few pints in merry old London I had Sam Smith's Museum Ale. There was a distinct taste of wood bitterness/astringency in this ale. The first and only English ale I have ever had that had this characteristic. Sam Smith's kegs this beer in wooden casks. The vast majority of their ales are kegged in metal kegs. I too thought that wood flavors and tastes was a myth until I tasted this beer. Was the taste good or bad? Well I would say it was subtle enough to add some interest. Would I add oak chips to my ales to try and achieve this flavor? No! Now if you got a french oak keg around and can clean it well (you wouldn't believe what Sam Smith's goes through to clean theirs) and can drink the entire keg in a week or two, I say give it a try. Short of that, forget the oak chip additions. Bob Jones bjones at novax.llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 94 10:50:41 EDT From: nkhirdaj at ccs.carleton.ca (Nada Khirdaji) Subject: recipe request I'm looking for a recipe using anise seed or any other licorice flavouring for a partial mash ale. Has anyone come across anything? Cheers, Mike Knul c/o nkhirdaj at ccs.carleton.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 1994 15:58:45 +0100 From: Brendan Halpin <halpin at vax.ox.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Trub & specific gravity Art Steinmetz <asteinm at pipeline.com> writes: > >Chris Pittock writes: > >> When I did the last partial there >> was a large amount of cold break material, so much so that >> when I took the >> sample for spec grav. I was CERTAIN that this will give a >> false reading due >> to all that crap floating around. > >Trub has no effect on SG readings. Precipitate solids do not >effect the density of a liquid. Counter-intuitive if you look >at cloudy sample but think about it. Throw some rocks and logs >into a swimming pool. Do they effect the density of water? Do >you float higher or lower in such water? This seems to be the received wisdom on this issue, but I'd like to contest it. Logs and rocks are respectively floating and sitting on the bottom and this is precisely NOT what suspended solids are doing. Floating and sitting solids have no effect on the density but suspended solids will: your hydrometer drops into the fluid and raises the volume of liquid it displaces, suspended solids included. Assuming the suspended solids are heavier than the liquid, it will require a smaller volume to balance the weight of the hydrometer. The difference is that when the particles are suspended they are part of the fluid; when they float or sink they are not. If putting the hydrometer in the sample makes any suspended particles rise with the fluid, the particles will affect the reading. However, for a particle to be suspended for any significant length of time its density must be very close to that of the liquid, so the real answer is that it probably doesn't matter. Brendan Brendan Halpin |Email: HALPIN at VAX.OX.AC.UK Dept of Applied Social Studies |PGP: Finger halpin at vax.ox.ac.uk Oxford University, Wellington Sq.,| or halpin at gramsci.apsoc.ox.ac.uk Oxford OX1 2ER, UK |Phone: +44 865 270347 (work) / 726758 (home) Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Jul 1994 08:19:03 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Partial Mashing Hi Dave, Saw your post. One thing I want to bring to your attention is that for a partial mash, you are working under the limiting conditions of your Boil Pot. yes, you had noted this but it is important to realize that Mashing Theory aside, YOU can only use 4.5 gallons of Wort. So: Here are the Rules and Exceptions, 1. 1.3 quarts water per lb grain to Mash. 2. 1.5 times That much water to sparge with. 3. Have more sparge water on hand in case you run out (Yes!). 4. The grain bed will absorb a lot, hence #3. 5. Figure on how much grain you need for your target assuming 30 pts per lb per gallon and then add another lb and don't worry about your efficiency. 6. Forget about stopping the sparge when you get to 1.008; stop when you have 4.5 gallons or as much as you want. (you will probably be at 1.015 or better, but who cares, grain is cheap). For a first partial mash, you want to be concerned with proper technique and not have to worry about whether you are making enough. Quality not Quantity. So, pad your amounts. Think about hot side aeration ahead of time so your runoff tube is not splashing the fresh wort into your boiling pot. Raise the pot up so that it fills smoothly, just like when you are bottling. I thought about it after the fact one time and ended up spilling 1.5 gallons of my first runnings into the carpet! <8-0 Take a gravity reading when you are done sparging, add your extract, mix it up well and then take another gravity reading for your boil gravity so you can plan your hop schedule. This way you can calculate your efficiency (I know what I said, but you will be curious anyway) and still work your Hop equations. Mashing is really quite easy, just take your time. PS. I tend to Mash for 60-80 minutes. John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 1994 8:40:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Cave <CAVE at PSC.ORG> Subject: Sake information please. I don't mean to clutter up band-width, but a colleque of mine intends to try making Sake and would like information, pointers, etc. on the process. Is there a Sake digest? She intends to buy Eckhardt's book "Sake USA". Is this book any good? Direct replys would be fine. Cheers! Jim Cave "I brew....therefore I am" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 1994 11:41:23 -0400 From: ar568 at freenet.carleton.ca (Aaron Shaw) Subject: Fruit Fly Beer? Dear Fellow Homebrewers. I presently have a brown ale in my primary fermentor (25 litre pail), which has been there for about 24 hours so far. My problem is that there are these fruit flies that are flying all around it. If one or two managed to get in could they harm my precious brew? Should I transfer to a carboy with a blow off tube? Is there any way to get rid of them without hurting my beer? Any help will be greatly appreciated. P.S. I am not interested in taking the lid off to let them all in for some new zoological zymurgy experiment. - -- "Come my lad, and drink some beer!" Aaron Shaw Ottawa, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 1994 12:27:56 -0500 (EST) From: STU_CEPARTIN at VAX1.ACS.JMU.EDU Subject: Re: carboy bunging problem Mr. McCauley wrote of a friend's aggrivation over losing a bung in his carboy. This is a problem that I have encountered (oddly enough it usually happens when I attempt to remove the bung for racking), and it has hastened my decision to do almost all of my fermenting in food-grade buckets. The easiest method I have used to remove the bung is to simply fish it out of the carboy using a wire hanger that has been bent in order to fit the hook through the hole. It takes some effort, but it saves carboys from short tempers and keeps homebrewing costs relatively low (carboys are a tad pricey in my neck of the woods). Good luck and relax! Christopher Partin James Madison University stu_cepartin at vax2.acs.jmu.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1476, 07/15/94