HOMEBREW Digest #1521 Thu 08 September 1994

Digest #1520 Digest #1522


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  Weizen Lauter Summary ("George A. Dietrich")
  worthless posts from lazy brewers (BREWS)
  RedBrick Press (Larry McCloskey)
  Habanero Beer Update/Fast bottle carb. (Dodger Posey)
  Bulk extracts/B-Brite as sanitizer?/Bad advice on cans/$$$/Crush (00bkpickeril)
  Brew Pubs in Portland, Oregon/San Fran. (David_Arnone)
  Re: Insulated brewpots (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  re Coors "Artic" Ice ("Joseph A. Lenzini")
  "classic" green bottles, competition announcement (uswlsrap)
  ...and here's the address I forgot to mention (uswlsrap)
  Re: Seperation of break material (Jim Busch)
  carboy caps (DrewStorms)
  Al will be Al (Ulick Stafford)
  Smoked Beer Competition (bickham)
  Fruit beer methods (Eugene Sonn)
  Samual Smith's Pale Ale (chris t durkin)
  Hoods / Boilovers / Cookers (Gordon Baldwin)
  Debate (npyle)
  Proteins, Amino Acids, Carbs and Enzymes (Ed Oriordan)
  Bad Address for Hack (BrewerBob)
  San Francisco Brewpubs (BrewerBob)
  copper wort chillers (Jason Sloan)
  Iodophor concentration (Mark Bellefeuille)
  Kegging gases (Matt_K)
  Re: Copper tubing bending tool. (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Automatic Sparger Summary (John Dodson)

****************************************************************** * NEW POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 06 Sep 94 21:58:25 EDT From: "George A. Dietrich" <74543.310 at compuserve.com> Subject: Weizen Lauter Summary Well it's been a couple of weeks since I put out the call for help with the set mashes I encountered when lautering my 70/30 Hefe Weizens. When last we looked in on George, the hapless brewer, he had just tossed out three batches of weizen because the lauter mash was set so badly that nothing he did would get them running again. Thank you all for the many responses and just as many ideas about how to overcome the problem I've encountered. As promised here is a summary of the suggestions I received. I've listed them by the frequency each was suggested: #1. The most often suggested idea was to switch from my ZapPap to a copper pipe manifold. I didn't have the time to build a manifold but I did go out and buy a Phils Phalse Bottom(tm) to replace the ZapPap. #2. Change my grain ratio from 70% wheat, 30% barley to something more managable like 50/50. Although a few of you did say that you had no trouble with the 70/30 ratio. #3. Change the spacing of the rollers of my grain mill from .035" to .045 or .050". This I did after I did an extraction experiment and found that I didn't lose a significant amount of extraction at the wider setting. #4. Extend my 122F protein rest from 20 to 30 or 40 minutes. I extended my protein rest to 35 minutes. #5. Make sure that I mash out at 168-170 F. This was already in the mash schedule. #6. Keep the lauter temp as stable as possible at the sparging temperature. I've added foam insulation to the lauter tun and it holds the heat better. #7. Try "re-mashing". A British technique I guess. It involves adding boiling water to the lauter, stirring, allowing the mash to settle again and then proceeding. #8. Underlet the mash with hot water to lift it off the false bottom. #9. Blow into the outflow tube. Don't laugh, I tried this as a last resort! That's about it. A lot of great suggestions from some great brewers who took the time to try to help me out. Now the sad ending. I tried again last weekend utilizing just about all of your suggestions with the exception of the copper manifold and reducing the grain ratio from 70/30 (pride you know!). Unfortunately the lauter stuck just as solidly as it did the first three trys. (Yes, I even blew into the outflow tube :-) I think that I'm going to hang up all grain weizens for a while. Next weekend I'll brew a nice easy Pilsner to sooth my battered ego. (And to restock my beer supply which is getting low) I think that the next time I try the weizen I'll make the grain ratio 50/50...but not just now. BTW I do have a confession. After I threw out this last batch I ran out to the brew supply shop, bought two, four pound cans of Alexanders 60/40 wheat/barley extract and put together a batch of weizen from that. I REALLY wanted some weizen! Please don't take this as any kind of slam against extract brewing...that's where I started. ;-) Thanks again. George Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Sep 1994 22:20:35 -0400 (EDT) From: BREWS at delphi.com Subject: worthless posts from lazy brewers I have a headache coming on from reading some of the drivel sent up here continuously by lazy brewers who won't do their own legwork. I have feelings for those unfortunate souls without a clue as to where they made a mistake in their brewing procedure but strongly suggest that they figure it out for themselves... by brewing with another person who's in the area. Team up to talk over the procedures and recipes before wasting our time here with boorish questions over and over again? Get a life and do some research on your own with other warm bodies instead of a computer terminal! Have a cold beverage and let your brain release its hidden potential over some boiling hop oils before asking questions about hop utilization. try to bring the fruits of your labors to all of us here in the HBD instead of Gimme,Gimme,Gimme. You can all use the keyboard , so try to generate some advanced slothlike articles that would be of value to the group. I'm particularly intrigued by the combination of potential here with professionals from all areas of the globe. I hope it gets better soon or its off to another interest area. Contribute what you can and find the answers to the simple stuff at your local level. Join a club ,go to a meeting and get off this machine for a while and interact-face to face with your peers. Then come back to us with some interesting anecdotes and some words with socially redeeming value. Over? And while I'm at it , I need judges for the upcoming Maine HBC in November. The competition is AHA sanctioned and open to all comers. Call Bill Giffin at 207 737-2015 for entry+judge forms. This is the 2nd leg of the New England Homebrewer of the Year sortie. The Worts(Bill Murphy et al) and the Green Mt .Mashers(Phil Kaszuba+ friends) are off to a big lead but there's 4 events left. There'll be some serious festivities if we win ... or if we lose cuz Kennebunkport is bringing beverages for the post event party. Other breweries are threatening to have a hospitality suite that evening also and theres always the salt air and fresh seafood in the Old Port to fill your belly before its thru! There will also be a BJCP test the following day for those with strong hearts and weak minds. Put it on your calender .... Nov.12th-13th, Portland,Maine. Be there or be brewing. Also I'd like the BURPers to call first before scheduling the next Belgian Conference so we can attend also. We're sort of committed up here and the club would be upset if we scooted south for the weekend in Va. Regards and Don't Shoot The Bearer of Bad News! Bruce P.Stevens - MALT Prez Return to table of contents
Date: 07 Sep 94 00:36:56 EDT From: Larry McCloskey <74557.1102 at compuserve.com> Subject: RedBrick Press Thanks to Stephen Mallery at Brewing Techniques for sending me Jack Erickson's address at RedBrick Press. I've received a couple of requests for the information, so I'll post it here: Jack Erickson RedBrick Press P.O. Box 1895 Sonoma, CA 95476 Larry McCloskey, 71041.476 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 1994 01:46:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Dodger Posey <dodger at quack.kfu.com> Subject: Habanero Beer Update/Fast bottle carb. 6 or 8 weeks ago I posted a RFI regarding making a batch of Habanero Beer. Most replies warned against using even small amounts, and some said the bottles should be labelled accordingly so that health risks and unnecessary hurl are minimized. I eventually settled on Papzian's Propensity Pilsener Lager, to which I added, each to a six-pack at bottling, Jalapeno peppers, fresh, cleaned but not sanitized and prepared as 1/4, 1/2, and whole, directly to the bottle prior to capping. 1/4--little to no pepper hot-ness, mild jalapeno flavor. Enjoyable even to someone who said "Pepper beer? Eeesh." 1/2--slight pepper hot-ness, medium jalapeno flavor. Very good. Whole--Medium pepper hot-ness, not enough that I would consider "hot". Medium jalapeno flavor. The pepper was not opened or slit, just whole. Most Enjoyable. I was suprised that they weren't hotter, though each pepper can vary. I also bottled using Melinda's XXXtra Reserve Habanero Pepper Sauce! I used 1/4 tsp per bottle, and 1/2 tsp per bottle on 2 sixers. The 1/4 batch was hot. You must like pepper beer to enjoy it. The 1/2 tsp batch was *HOT*. You must keep a tissue handy to wipe your eyes. Very drinkable, but carefully. Both batches were aged for a month at 65 deg. and were 5.6% alc. On another note, I made a batch of simple honey beer for the cast of a theater show I was hired to play drums for, called "Beehive!" A six-week run was expected, so I made the brew middle of the second week thinking "lotta time". Wrong. Run now 4 weeks. Oh oh. By the time it was bottled, I had 8 days till the closing cast party. What to do....<light bulb>....I placed a space heater in a small room and watched the thermometer climb to 90 deg. Kept it there 24 hrs a day till the nite before the beer was needed. (this was during July in California, 90-95 deg. most of the month). The sample said "I'm done, take me out of this damn oven". Result? Standing Ovation at the party. Whew! But now the remaining 2 sixers are tasting just a tiny bit different. Not bad, but different. Going bad? who knows, they'll be finished by the weekend. The Lesson-Ya gotta do watcha gotta do dodger posey - --------------Dodger Posey-----dodger at quack.kfu.com------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 1994 08:15:47 -0500 (EST) From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu Subject: Bulk extracts/B-Brite as sanitizer?/Bad advice on cans/$$$/Crush Fellow Brewers, I've been brewing for about 8 months, have been lurking here for about 4 months, have read papazian cover to cover, and the past 2 issues of Zymurgy. Still, I have some questions. ;-) Looking to cut costs, I have recently tried some "generic" malt extract syrup from Wine Hobby USA. The price was really quite good at $1.50/lb. I know that Papazian for one says that all extracts are NOT the same quality, but I was wondering what other extract brewers thought of buying bulk extracts such as this. Comments? Is it best to stick with name brand extracts? What are your favorites and which do you tend to avoid? I felt that it would likely work quite well, probably because I have had very good luck with all my beer to date--albeit only about 6 batches, I've not had any that were bad enough to poor out. (All *except* one batch--where I followed the directions on the label!--turned out excellent.) Anyway, I tried the batch that I made with the Wine Hobby bulk extract at 18 days (13 in glass carboy w/ blow-by plus 5 days of bottle conditioning) and was NOT pleased with the result. Maybe I should just RDWHAHB, since it is still very young beer, but I must say I am concerned. I followed the Bass Ale extract recipie in CMII quite closely, only substituting 6lbs of the light WH bulk extract. Also, for the first time, I used the dishwasher to sanitize the (clean) bottles. I used electrosol (dish washing powder) in the first cycle, and b-brite in the second cycle, normal wash, water heat, and heat dry. Some did not fit and I sanitized only with a soak in b brite and a rinse. In hindsight this was probably a mistake, since I am not certain that b brite will work to sanitize. Is it only a cleaner, not suitable for sanitizing? Can't believe I didn't do a bleach wash, but as I alluded to earlier, I suppose I may be a fit over confident due to my past successes. The b-brite tub says very little about what it is intended to do, except that it removes beer stone or residue. I've wondered recently why so many the canned malt extracts have ridiculously stupid advise on the label. Do they really think that their sales are helped by making brewing sound as easy as possible to get that first sale, even though the brew that results will likely not inspire anyone to continue? Or, do they actually believe that it is good practice to add a ton of (non boiled!) granulated sugar, hot tap water, etc... to make one's brew? BTW, I have found a discount liquor outlet with some homebrew supplies, and will probably buy all my extract there from now on. I can get Munton and Fison premium extract 3.3# for $7.50. Do any of you know of any mail order places that can compete with a price like that? Finally, it is necessary to crush specialty grains like crystal malt? Simple question, but I can't seem to find the answer. Sometimes it's explicitly stated to use crushed crystal for example, while at other times recipies don't say. Do I assume it is nearly always crushed? I didn't crush it last time (first time!) I used it, and it didn't seem to contribute that much. Thanks in advance! PS. Sorry for the length of this--guess I've been putting off writing for too long. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 94 09:39:01 EDT From: David_Arnone at Warren.MentorG.com Subject: Brew Pubs in Portland, Oregon/San Fran. In late October (23rd - 27th) I will be attending a software conference in Portland, Oregon. I am interested in visiting as many brew pubs as is possible. Dinner will also be a necessity. If anyone has a list of Brew Pubs serving food and perhaps a list of events for the last week in October, it will be greatly appreciated. The conference will be in downtown Protland. Also, I will be wrapping the end of the week in San Francisco. Any info on SF is also greatly appreciated. Thanks! Dave Arnone dja at warren.mentorg.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 94 09:41:21 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: Insulated brewpots Guy writes about insulating brewpots with newspaper. DON'T DO THIS if you have a GAS STOVE! Maybe this is obvious, but it bears repeating, anyway. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 1994 08:53:18 -0500 (CDT) From: "Joseph A. Lenzini" <jlenzini at mail.more.net> Subject: re Coors "Artic" Ice Rick asked about the spelling of Artic in Coors new ice beer. The way I understand it, geographical locations cannot be copyrighted, trademarked, whatever... so Arctic was purposely spelled incorrectly. Joe L. jlenzini at more.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 94 10:16:31 EDT From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Subject: "classic" green bottles, competition announcement - ----------------------- Mail item text follows --------------- To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: "classic" green bottles, competition announcement Radio ad I heard this morning: Rolling Rock ad proudly proclaims that it doesn't come in those less expensive brown bottles, but instead in "the classic green bottle." Maybe that explains the classic skunky flavour, eh? Now I don't doubt that painted labels make the bottles more expensive than those with mere paper labels, but they weren't talking about that. I'll bottle in a few green ones if I'm short on those "lesser" brown ones. For laughs, I even did a bottle of Imperial Stout in a (clear) Samuel Smith's bottle, but I'll stick with the brown ones as a rule, thankyouverymuch. One place where we don't want to see your clear bottles or your ceramic capped Grolsch bottles is the Eighth Annual November Classic, sponsored by the Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild, November 19. We will be judging in two categories, "This" and "That." Identify your intended beer style, but enter in either category as you choose. Beers only--no ciders or meads. Complete information and entry forms will be available early in October, but now that the weather is getting cooler in some parts of the country, start your brewing!!! If you live in the region or will be travelling nearby, come on out and help judge. We usually manage to make the post-judging time a pretty decent social gathering. Let me know if you can make it. For those of you who have entered our competitions before, we're going to make a change for those who bring entries on the day of the event. You can continue to do so, but we're asking that you register them at least a week in advance. Fill out all the paperwork and send it in so it can be entered on the database and we can have entry numbers assigned in advance. Cheers Bob Paolino Disoriented in Badgerspace Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 94 10:22:12 EDT From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Subject: ...and here's the address I forgot to mention - ----------------------- Mail item text follows --------------- To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: ...and here's the address I forgot to mention MHTG / P.O. Box 1365 / Madison, Wisconsin 53704 If you call rather than write (email or snailmail) for forms, be sure to leave your address if you get the answering machine. I'm not going to give my phone number here, because either kind of mail is cheaper than a long distance phone call for both of us, but the phone number is what you're going to see in the AHA announcement, so I thought I'd advise at least those who read hbd... Bob Paolino Disoriented in Badgerspace Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 1994 10:40:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Re: Seperation of break material > Phil writes: > >Ever since I constructed my counterflow chiller I have been getting > >a great cold break. Unfortunately, I can't get the break to go away! > >This stuff which looks like egg drop soup will not settle any further > >than the bottom 1/3 of my carboy. > Algis responds: > I'm afraid that I'm a devoted immersion chiller user, so I don't have > experience separating the wort from the break with a counterflow. One > reason that I like the immersion chiller is not needing to siphon that one > additional time to separate the wort from the break. Perhaps you could > use one of those large funnels with the screen in the bottom. I suspect > that you will have to stop the wort flow and dump the break out of the > funnel occasionally. Hmmm... you may need to establish a filter bed (the > screen may not be enough) for which you can use some whole hops. You > won't get the same amount of aroma from these hops as you would if you > had the hop back (which is what this sort-of is) on the hot side of the > chiller, but that is before the cold break forms. Sorry to be so speculative, > hopefully others with experience with this problem will give concrete > solutions. OK, Ill bite. The main difference that Phil is dealing with between his use of an immersion and now a counterflow is that before, he was able to combine hot and cold break in the kettle, and now he has a two stage process. Often, when one transitions from a immersion to a counterflow, the chilling process is faster and more efficient and thus precipitates a greater amount of break material than before. Algis is primarily a extract brewer, and as such has the benefit of the extract manufacturers trub removal already performed for him (at least to a large extent). Im guessing here that Phil is all grain, since copious amounts of cold break are formed when brewing all grain and using a good counterflow chiller. So, what to do? I suspect (on the limb now) that what is happening is two fold, one: as stated above, you are precipitating additional cold break than before, and two: you may have some carryover of hot break from the kettle. It depends on the methods of bitter wort transfer, if you have some form of screening material in the wort line/kettle and also use whole hops, you should be fine (this is how I do it, perf sheet in the kettle as a "hop back", boil hops above this, strain/pipeline bitter wort from below this. I also use copper/SS scrubbies in my pipeline/chiller adapter as an additional catch). If you choose to use hop pellets, than you need to be sure that the bitter wort outlet is above the hot break material. Even with pellets, a hop back can be used quite successfully to "strain" pellets and hot break. Just be careful with aeriation of bitter wort prior to chilling (a closed system is useful in this case). Ok, so now we have a handle on the hot break issue. What to do about the cold break? Well, not much, IMO. Ron Barchet, who is brewmaster at The Old Dominion Brewing Co in Ashburn , VA, wrote two excellent articles in BT, hot and cold trub. There is not too much debate about the merits of hot break removal, it is generally accepted as essential to well made beer. Cold break, on the other hand is a very contentious issue. European Lager brewers (primarily German, and this seems to be where Miller gets a lot of his more anal opinions from) tend to emphasize the importance of cold trub removal. This kinda makes perfect sense, as European lagers tend to be crisp and delicate. US and to a large degree British brewers seem to be much less concerned about cold trub removal. Part of this, no doubt, is due to a cost consideration, for a pub or micro, cold trub removal is usually done with a floatation tank (a dedicated vessal that holds chilled bitter wort, O2 is injected into the wort as it enters the tank, this effectively scrubs trub matter to the top of the tank, and after a period of hours, the "brite" bitter wort is pumped out of the bottom, leaving behind the foamy trub "top".) Expert tasting panels have been known to prefer beer produced from wort that had cold trub removed. This usually pertains to European lagers, and European tasting panels. One would have to take a large jump of faith to apply these results to a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, where the flavors are much less subtle. So, whats all this mean for us practical homebrewers? I make ales, and I use an open fermenter. If you use a system like this, some trub will be scrubbed to the top of the fermenter where it can be skimmed. If you use a carboy and blowoff, then a similar result will occur. Trub left over will be covered by a yeast layer, and if not disturbed (resist the urge to shake those carboys!), will be left in the bottom. If you are worried about producing the cleanest lagers in town, then some form of settling tank and/or a floatation method may be desirable. This is easier than it may sound, since if you intend to brew world class lagers at home, you better have some form of O2 to inject/force into the chilled bitter wort. Another obvious choice is to rack the beer at an early stage, say one to two weeks after pitch. (yeah, this brings up the issue of early racking prior to adequate diacetyl reduction by the yeast, but if you use a fairly clean strain like 34/70, this is a non issue). So, in summary, maximize hot trub removal, remove cold trub when reasonable to do so, and if you make ales, dont bother. BTW, Algis, using a counterflow does not add another siphon step, provided you do follow one of the above methods (other than in professional floatation tanks). Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 94 10:44:04 EDT From: DrewStorms at aol.com Subject: carboy caps Has anyone had experience using the two-tubed, orange carboy caps with your carboys inverted so that the yeast can be drained off the bottom without racking? It would involve a rigid tube inside, running to the top of the carboy for offgassing, and a tube for draining. It sounds enticing, but I hesitate to trust my beers to a plastic cap on the *bottom* of a fermenter. Hoppy brewing, drew Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 1994 10:22:34 -0500 (EST) From: ulick at ulix.rad.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford) Subject: Al will be Al It is a pity that Al wouldn't apply some of his recent fervour as a technical editor of Zymurgy to his posts here. I mean Al, after admitting you knew nothing about the egg drop soup from counter flow wort chiller problem you had to waffle aimlessly about it. The stuff is cold break. You can forget about it (American Brewing practice), or rack off it (German practice), but some will remain and be helpful for fermentation, and by the time you rack to secondary it will have precipitated with the yeast (i.e. RDWHAHB). I believe Dave Miller discussed it recently in his column in BT. Al is very worried about people commenting on errors in Zymurgy because he has been a technical editor for all of 2 issues, one of which had the fucked up yeast table. Admittedly, many of Zymurgy's glaring errors are of an older vintage (Zymurgy is around 20 years old), and it takes more than 2 issues (one of which had a fucked up yeast table) to overcome that reputation. Al wonders why I didn't inform Zymurgy? Two reasons - the magazine had already been printed and the most a comment will get is an entry in the corrections page of the next issue, and two, the errors are so obvious, that if I had made them I'd be a little pissed at the forty second person telling me, so I assume they don't need to be informed. I mean -3 deg C = - 20 deg F doesn't sneak by many people, especially when they say that beer will stay unfrozen till -20 F. Surely we all know that this is not the case (unless our name indicates that we are prone to intemperate or immoderate indulgence of food and drink)? Nevertheless, if Zymurgy now has a greater interest in technical editing, it may improve from the error point of view, so long as all the columns are checked. The articles were not the major problem before in any case. Regular editing is important too, such as cross checking galleys, but I am sure the AHA knows that too. I subscribe to it anyway. A few technical errors are not going to change that. The odd good article (and the reproduced Michael Jackson column and winner's circle) justifies my subscription. I don't expect Zymurgy to be Brauwelt or anything like it. __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 http://ulix.rad.nd.edu/Ulick.html | Ulick.Stafford at nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 1994 12:01:26 -0400 (EDT) From: bickham at msc.cornell.edu Subject: Smoked Beer Competition Since we've been talking about smoked beers lately, it's time for an early announcement about the AHA Club-Only Smoked Beer Competition to be held next May. The competition will be hosted by the Ithaca Brewers Union, although we'll probably have to spread the judging over a few days to keep our taste buds from getting shot. The date is pretty far away, but it sounds like a few iterations are generally needed to get the right level of smokiness. In my own efforts to make a peat-smoked Scotch ale, I successfully smoked 2 lbs. of Belgian pilsner malt. Contrary to the recommendations in another postings last week, I used peat moss in a propane grill, with a pouch made of heavy duty stainless steel screen to hold the grains. Peat wood was recommended, but if peat moss is readily available and comes in smaller chucks thatare easily sprinkled over the stones in the propane grill. As for propane not being appropriate - it burns fairly cleanly, and if it's used to simply to heat up the peat until it begins to smolder and burn on its own, it has no effect on the malt. I smoked the grains for approximately 30 minutes, with a good stream of smoke passing through the grain for most of the time. I rotated the pouch every 5 minutes or so to minimize uneven heating, but there was still a little toasting of the grains. This is fine, since I probably would have oven-toasted some grain if I brewed a normal Scotch ale. After cooling on a cookie sheet, the grains had a subtle smokiness that is definitely similar to that found in Adelscot, a beer made in France with peat-smoked malt. I also picked up some smoke flavor from the grain husks when chewing, and the starches inside had a slightly deeper color than the base grain. Since this will make up about 15% of the grist, I expect the beer to have a minimal smokey character which should blend well with the caramel and roasted maltiness from pale ale malt and roast barley. Good brewing, Scott - -- ======================================================================== Scott Bickham bickham at msc.cornell.edu ========================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 1994 12:13:16 -0400 (EDT) From: Eugene Sonn <eugene at sccs.swarthmore.edu> Subject: Fruit beer methods Hi to the HBD, I'm about to attempt my first fruit beer. A wheat beer flavored with raspberries (frozen). I am an extract, single stage fermenter, brewer and am confused about the many ways I have heard to add fruit. TNCJOHB says put them in to steep after the boil, but before cooling while others have told me to put it in the second stage of two stage fermentation. I know I shouldn't boil the fruit, but does anyone have experience with both the above methods? If so, please drop a quick line about which you found more effective. Private e-mail is great, but post to the digest if you like. Thank so much, Eugene eugene at sccs.swarthmore.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 94 12:20:52 -0400 From: chris t durkin <ctdurk00 at mik.uky.edu> Subject: Samual Smith's Pale Ale I am looking for a good recipe for Sam Smith's Pale Ale. All grain (preferred) or extract. Thanks, Chris Durkin CTDURK00 at mik.uky.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 1994 09:35:37 -0700 (PDT) From: gbaldw at zaphod.usin.com (Gordon Baldwin) Subject: Hoods / Boilovers / Cookers to Bob Jones and Micah: I observed the same thing with the forced air hood on my brew pot. In my old house the hood over the stove only had about 3 inches clearance, so when the exhaust fan was on it created quite a flow of air accross the top of the brew pot. I never had a problem with boil over. I had lots of problems when I used my old brew pot which was shorter. Now in our new house I have a little more clearance, but it is still low enough to create an ok flow of air. I now start my boil during the sparge before the pot is full and most of the break is done before it gets full. One way to combat boil overs, was brought up about 4 years ago in the HBD. Fill one of those plant sprayers with water and as the pot starts to boil over mist the hell out of the foam on top. Stops it quickly. To Brian Ellsworth about evil looking secondary. Never toss out a batch of suspect beer until you can let it age a little. I have had a couple of batches that I almost didn't bottle because they looked and tasted off. Those batches have always turned out fine. The old Red Star ale yeast did this to me a couple of times before I went to liquid. It would createa lot of very fruity esters that would take a few weeks to mellow out. Also I have been doing full mashes in my kitchen quite sucessfully now for about 6 years, but with my current setup I am limited to 5 gallon batches. Now my kids are getting old enough that I can watch them from the garage, so I am looking to go to 10 gallon batches. I am probably going to get a converted keg and a burner. I have Natural gas in the garage and it would be convient to hook into that and not have to refill propane all the time. Does anyone have any experience with changing a propane burner over to natural gas? I also have been disapointed with Zymurgy lately. The format change about a year ago was not for the better. I also belong to the IBS and get the New Brewer. They are produced by the same folks, but the layout is much nicer. As for technical content I don't find much of interest in Zymurgy any more. But that could be because I am reading the more technical stuff and Zymurgy aims at a much lower level. 6 years ago it seemed to have a much higher signal to noise ratio. I will have to pull out my old issues and see. The old layout looked more professional (after the first couple of years) than the present. I did send email to Charlie Papazian after the change and he said it would improve, but I have not seen any progress, except for the darkening of the type. - -- Gordon Baldwin gbaldw at usin.com Olympia Washington Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 94 11:22:28 MDT From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM Subject: Debate Alan P Van Dyke writes: >I agree with Gregg Tennefoss that St Pat's is getting a bum deal. Lots of >people out there have had their way flaming their services all summer. I >think a response from St Pat's is very appropriate. How would any of you I don't think St. Pats is getting a bum deal at all. Well, I agree that they should be allowed to speak up for themselves; I have no problem with that. OTOH, I don't think they've defended themselves very well. ...snipped paragraph about the Motorola gateway and bounced HBDs... >Besides, is it that big a problem? Well, I think it is a big enough problem to take some action on. I also think that Rob Gardner agrees, based on his new policy note. As someone else said, getting the HBD via email is a privilege. There are other ways to get it for folks whose mail tools can't handle it reliably. ** Al K writes: >Why *not* reserve my comments for private email? If Norm and Ulick had >written to Zymurgy directly about some errors they felt were published, >in stead of making sweeping accusations about the quality of the magazine >in the HBD, then perhaps I would have been asked to respond to them via >private email. Since they made a public post, I took it upon myself to ...and... >the information would benefit the HBD membership, I post. Perhaps I post >too much, but I'm passionate about brewing and beer, so I get carried away. >To me it's not just a hobby -- it's a passion. I don't have a problem at all with Al's posts, on this or any other subject. We all have our opinions and I think this forum can survive a lively debate. My recent attacks on Zymurgy have everything to do with my passion for brewing and my passion for excellence. I rarely feel that the staff down there are striving for excellence. In private email, Al scolded me for blaming Zymurgy for problems with Brewer's Publications. He is right and I'm probably blaming the wrong people, but the organization is such a bowl of spaghetti that who can blame me? Does anyone out there *really* know where to draw the lines between AHA, AAB, BP, Zymurgy, IBS, and all their other cliques? The place occupies one office as far as I can tell, and it isn't clear at all to me who's who. To sum my feelings about Zymurgy: when I pick up an issue I spend an average of maybe 45 minutes on it. There is usually one good article, a handful of decent articles, and some more bad articles. I define "good" as interesting to me, accurate, well-done. "Decent" is accurate but not interesting to me. I would define "Bad" as just fluff to fill pages. It may be that as I gain brewing experience I expect Zymurgy to grow with me. If this is an unfair expectation, I apologize. Cheers, Norm npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 94 13:28:24 -0400 From: edo at marcam.com (Ed Oriordan) Subject: Proteins, Amino Acids, Carbs and Enzymes I have a few questions about proteins, carbohydrates and enzymes in barley. I've read Papazian, Miller and Noonan and each throws a new piece into the puzzle for me, sooo.... Are the following statments true or false or partly true? Any help? Unmalted barley contains proteins, carbs and enzymes. Proteins are composed of amino acids. There are 20 differnt amino acids. Enzymes are proteins. Enzymes can break down proteins. One enzyme can only attack one type of protein structure (lock-key model). Enzymes can break down carbohydrates. (???? If not what does) Enzymes break proteins into shorter proteins and new enzymes. Enzymes break carbohydrates into less complex sugars. Malting breaks proteins, carbs and creates shorter proteins less complex sugars and new enzymes (where do the new enzymes come from?) Acrospire growth is an indicator of how much the proteins and carbs have already been broken down. A 122F protein rest degrades medium chain proteins to short. A 131F protein rest degrades long chain proteins to med. (seems backwards, but is correct I think) Medium chain proteins are good for shelf life and head retention. Short chain proteins are used as yeast nutrients. Mashing further breaks down proteins (if rest used) and carbohydrates (into dextrines and maltose) that provide nutrients and food for yeast. If anybody out there who has a better grip of biology can help I'd appreciate it. I will summarize to the digest. Ed O' edo at marcam.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 94 16:00:02 EDT From: BrewerBob at aol.com Subject: Bad Address for Hack A message to Edmund Hack (sorry for the use of the space) - I sent you what you requested but it bounced with an unknown address (Host does not exist, it said). I verified it and it matched the return address on your e-mail to me - hack at 144c4-2.jsc.nasa.gov Above entry tells it all. Sorry I couldn't reach you. BrewerBob at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Sep 94 16:00:12 EDT From: BrewerBob at aol.com Subject: San Francisco Brewpubs Due to the many requests received via E-mail, I am taking the space here on HBD to provide a synopsis of recommended brewpubs and micro breweries in the San Francisco area, based on the replies received as a result of my query about a week ago. The run down follows: I asked if the Anchor tour was worth the time, having been to at least six others already. Nearly everyone replied that it was a great tour and well worth the time, if only for the tasting alone. Reservations are needed and the tours are daily at 2:00 PM. I had 19 responses to my query, one of which contained no text and two that asked for me to forward the results and gave no recommendations. That leaves 16 "valid" advisories. The top four favorites are: 1. Marin Brewing in Larkspur - Comments: Go there; best in area; a good one; good; number two, don't miss it. 2. Pacific Coast Brewing Co. in Oakland - Comments: Carries many other micros; recommend; highly recommend; uses an extract base and makes some great beer; number one. 3. Gordon Biersh in several locations - SF said to be best but any will do - Comments: Recommend; Beer quite good, food good; good but busy; will do; a good one; good lagers. 4. Tied House in Mountain View - Comments: Nice, sit outside, beer and food good, service fair; highly recommend, wonderful beer, great food; beer okay, try fruit beer; personal favorite. Others with more than one positive comment include: Mendicino Brewing Co in Hopland (good) Boulder Creek Brewery in Santa Cruz (good beer, good food, worth the drive) San Francisco Brewing Co (two said great and very good, one said it sucked! Go figure!) 20 Tank in San Francisco (good and ok) Single positive entries include: Seabright Brewery in Santa Cruz (Adtos) Front Street in Santa Cruz Bison Brewing, Triple Rock and Jupiter in Berkeley Hopland Brewery in Hopland Dempsey's Ale House in Petaluma To be avoided are: Winchester Brewery in San Jose San Francisco Brewing Co. (? - See above) Others: Buffalo Bill's in Hayward (Mixed comments - Great beer, common grub, poor sanitation, not worth the time, just to say you've been there, pumpkin ale, infected beer. Most comments were negative on this one. BrewerBob at aol.com - Bob Davis Let's keep brewin' the good stuff! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 1994 16:02:21 -0400 From: aa3625 at freenet.lorain.oberlin.edu (Jason Sloan) Subject: copper wort chillers Instead of spending a lot of time bending copper tubing for my chiller , I simply went to the hardware--lumberyard and picked up a coil of tubing. I can't believe that the Lowe's lumber in Joplin MO is the only place which sells pre-coiled copper! It comes in a flat coil which can easily be stretched to separate the coils from one another. I have noticed other lumberyards in town which carry similar products. The tubing comes in a variety of lengths and diameters so you can buy amounts that suit your needs. (My brew partner has a part time job at an ice plant so we put a relatively small coil in a chest full of free ice to get the wort to pitching temperatures in a matter of minutes.) ...Just a suggestion. - -- Jason Sloan sloan01?jason at cc01.mssc.edu or aa3625 at freenet.lorain.oberlin.edu - ---Yo ho ho and a bucket of homebrew... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 1994 13:27:17 -0700 From: Mark Bellefeuille <mcb at mcdpxs.phx.mcd.mot.com> Subject: Iodophor concentration Al says: > For 12.5 ppm (sorry Tony), use 1/4 ounce per gallon. I usually use 25 ppm, > or 1/2 ounce per gallon. Using too much is not only a waste of money, but > causes the solution to foam excessively when agitated. > > Al. Okay I'll bite. From memory: (so I expect to get at least 2 corrections.:-) In the Zymurgy special issue which discuss's sanitizing: 12.5 ppm is stated as the strength of Iodophor needed to sanitize without needing to be rinsed. So if the object is not wasting money: why use 25 ppm? The rinse wastes water as well as the Iodophor. mark mcb at phx.mcd.mot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 94 17:00:22 edt From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca Subject: Kegging gases Message: I am just about to go out and buy a kegging setup and noticed thet the markup charged by the homebrew supply shops in the area is close to 100%. Being naturally cheap, I called some places which fill gas cylinders. I wasw completely unprepared for the different gas mixes available for carbonating and pushing beer. Should I go for plain food grade CO2 or is it better to use some "Beer mix" (CO2/Nitrogen combo)? I'm not even sure how many different mixes there are. Many thanks Matt Koch Matt_k at ceo.sts-systems.ca P.S. No relation to Jim Koch. Please reply via private e-mail and I'll post a summary. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 94 16:17:26 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: Copper tubing bending tool. >>>>> "Lee" == Lee A Menegoni <lmenegoni at nectech.com> writes: Lee> WHen I made my immersion chiller from a 50' coil of 3/8" OD soft Lee> copper tubing I also purcahsed a bending tool for less than $2. Lee> This tool is a foot long tightly coiled, flexible spring like Lee> item whose inner diameter is the same as the tubing OD. I have Lee> seen them in sizes for 3/8" and 1/2" tubing at Home Depot. Lee> I used this while wrapping the tubing around a 5 gallon soda keg Lee> as a form and also used it to make a coiled manifold for a 10 Lee> gallon Gott mash tun, no kink in either. If people are using soft refrigeration copper tubing, I don't see why ther are any problems at all in bending it. Sure, I have one of those slinky type benders, but I never had to use it. I made my wort chiller as a three lobed affair, thanks to a great suggestion here in the HBD, and each of the coils was bent into a 4" diameter loop. I had no trouble nor any kinks because I was bending around 4" sections of pipes. If you use some kind of form to bend around, no tools are needed. dion Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 94 09:45:00 -0700 From: john.dodson at cantina.com (John Dodson) Subject: Automatic Sparger Summary Several weeks ago I posted a query looking for information on an 'automatic' sparge ring (described as a copper ring with holes drilled in the bottom and a float valve mounted in the middle, used for 'automatically' controlling sparge water flow to a grain bed). I had quite a few requests on forwarding any information I might obtain as a result of the post. I am sorry to inform all that were interested, that I did not recieve any information... either on a design or where one might buy such a device. :-( (Could be a market for such a device?.. how about it Jack? ... EasyAutomaticSpargeRing(tm)?) If _you_ know of any information on this device, please take a few minutes and post... there are quite a few gadget nuts out there that would like some information. Thanks! ... john.dodson at cantina.com ___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12 Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1521, 09/08/94

[Back] Back up a level. Converted, by HBD2HTML written by K.F.L.