HOMEBREW Digest #1547 Sat 08 October 1994

Digest #1546 Digest #1548

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Filtration Summary (again) (GubGuy)
  RE: No. Cal. BJCP Exam (Rmarsh747)
  malt and cider (uswlsrap)
  Refrigeration Unit (Diane S. Put)
  Re: yeast head contact with air is good? (Tel +44 784 443167)
  bottles ("pratte")
  Lagering (A.J. deLange)
  OVERpitching/Munich-Vienna mash (FLATTER)
  copper bottoms/ rollermills (Ed Hitchcock)
  chlorine troubleshoot (RONALD DWELLE)
  RE: Yeast head contact with air / Irish Ale yeast ("Steve Veillette, WCSU Information Systems")
  Sankey Fermenters (George J Fix)
  Re: Raspberry Beer (L M Sabo)
  Free yeast---Observations (Steven Lichtenberg)
  Homebrewed Roller Mill (npyle)
  more on wheat / alcohol content / bjcp records / ZYMURGY (uswlsrap)
  Water Heater Conversion (npyle)
  Liberty Ale recipe request (Ken Schroeder)
  Star anise, anyone? (VIALEGGIO)
  Re: Overpitching (Gordon Baldwin)
  Don't remove ("Hutchinson, Sharon - Cust. Sup")
  Re: Trippel vs Tripel (Rick Starke)
  Can you rack too early? / Pale Malt Mash question (Barry Nisly)
  Dry Yeast--Some words (Patrick Weix)
  Brewing with Maple sap (David Desroches)
  Re: Metal Plating Brew Kettles ("Palmer.John")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 06 Oct 94 21:05:01 EDT From: GubGuy at aol.com Subject: Filtration Summary (again) (This was sent sometime last week but I haven't seen it posted yet. I don't know if it was lost or deleted or what. It may even still be on the list to post. Please excuse if this happens to get posted twice.) Thanks to all for the replies I received on the subject of aeration filters. There were many suggestions, which I will list: 1: Use a small plastic jar (like a pill bottle), with nipples at either end, packed with cotton balls slightly damped with grain alcohol. 2: Medical filter for oxygenating blood. (I assume this would be for something like dialysis; I've been in the medical field 10 years and am unaware if such a filter exists.) 3: The "Bubble Jar" method; a sealable jar with an in & out tube attatched. The filter pushes the air through the in tube and bubbles through a solution of sterilant (dilute bleach, alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, etc.) 4: And the winning entry, submitted by Christopher Sack: The filter for the aquarium pump is very simply a 1" OD x ~6" long glass or copper tube that is filled with aquarium activated charcoal to remove any smells/chemicals. Each end is fitted with a plug or sterile cotton to keep the charcoal in place and to serve as a filter for particles/nasties. Use a single holed rubber stopper on either end to attatch the incoming and outgoing air tubes. Refer to the crude ASCII drawing if still confused. __________________ _ _ | \**xxxxxxxxxxxxxx**/ | == air tube in/out out < =====**xxxxxxxxxxxxxx**====== <in ** sterile cotton |_ /**xxxxxxxxxxxxxx**\_| xx activated charcoal __________________ This seemed the best design, pretty much in line with what I was thinking. What I actually ended up doing was sometning a little different. I took a small jar, drilled two holes in the top. Ran the "in" tubing to the bottom of the jar (through one of the holes in the lid). Packed some cotton on top of the tubing, put activated aquarium charcoal on top of that, covered with more cotton. The remaining hole in the lid is for the "out" tubing. The incoming air has to circulate through two cotton layers and a layer of charcoal before exiting. This is much along the lines of the above filter; since I had no readily available tubing, this seemed a good alternative. Re: my recent post on Lactic Acid. Many helpful responses, if anyone else lives in a beer wasteland, let me know & I'll send address of where to get some. If enough interest, will post all addresses I received. So much for my short summary. GubGuy at aol.com Nunc est Bibendum (Latin; "Now is the time to drink") -Ray Ownby- "In Wine there is Truth" -Dostoyevsky Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 06 Oct 94 21:12:48 EDT From: Rmarsh747 at aol.com Subject: RE: No. Cal. BJCP Exam Rad Equipment wrote: >Finally a BJCP Exam has been sceduled for Northern >California...This is the only exam sceduled in the area for the next >six monthers or more. Excuse me for asking, but what is the BJCP Exam, and what does it test? You peeked my interest when you wrote "Get those study groups organized and hit the beers, er books." Thanks in advance for the answer. BTW, thanks to all of you who answered my post asking about Dextrine vs. Honey. It really helped. Robert M. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 06 Oct 94 23:00:25 EDT From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.COM Subject: malt and cider - -------------------- Mail Item Text Follows ------------------ To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: malt and cider Please share your experiences in making cider with malt added (to be distinguished from beer with apple added ). I'd like to try it with some recently pressed cider. Not sure if I want to do barley malt or wheat malt, but I know I want the predominant character to be cider, so I don't plan to use a lot--just enough to make it interesting and different. While on the subject, I saw a bottle in the package store cooler today that looked a little like the old Grant's Yakima cider, except it was a 22oz bottle. A closer look revealed that it was a honey cider ale. No nutritional information ;->, but it did mention that it was a malt beverage fermented with apple juice and a just a touch of hops. Anyone who's been reading the beer press for any reasonable length of time knows about Bert Grant's battles with the BATF. It wasn't just over the labelling controversy, though. There was also something about his cider and how he isn't licensed as a winery, and therefore, they said, he can't legally make cider. I don't recall the specifics, but that's the essence of it. When I tasted it, had I not seen the label I would not have guessed it was anything but a cider. I wonder whether he's using just the tiniest bit of malt to get around the BATF's goon tactics. If you KNOW something about this, please share it with the digest crowd. Personally, I don't want my alcohol-containing beverages to be anywhere near tobacco and firearms. Beer is good food, Bob Paolino Disoriented in Badgerspace Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 94 20:49:54 PDT From: diput at eis.calstate.edu (Diane S. Put) Subject: Refrigeration Unit Hello all: A few weeks ago I posted about an idea for a temperature-controlled fermenter based on a 15.5 gallon keg. I was going to use the refrigeration unit from a wall mounted drinking fountain. Well, as luck would have it, I stumbled across this in a surplus catalogue: Mini Refrigeration Unit Item 1-1302 $47.50 One of our most unusual surplus buys. Originally built as a desktop soda fountain, we are selling the cooling system and other parts they contain. Use for custom built refrigerator compartments in mobile homes, wine coolers, electrical equiptment, cooling, etc. Compressor has a 1/12 HP, 115 VAC motor, 3.2 amps. The wrap-around flexible cooling jacket is 33" X 8.5". In addition to the cooling components, there are also solenoid valves, stirring motor, pump and other misc. parts. Units are new and unused. Outer casing has been removed and the carbonation chamber disabled bye the manufacturer to preclude use in original application. Size 16" x 13" x 20". Now, the thing that caught my eye is the "flexible cooling jacket." The size is a bit too small to cover the diameter of the keg all the way, but it should cover enough to keep the temperature within a set range, although I don't know what the thermostat setup is on this unit. It should be easy to modify/replace it if necessary. This band would cover a 5 gallon carboy very well and could solve some of the "too hot to brew" problems some of you have. It seems like a hell of a buy for a compact refrigeration unit. For more info, call: Surplus Center (800) 488-3407 (24hrs, 7 days) No affiliation, yada, yada, blah, blah...... don (previously of dput at csulb.edu) (I'm currently in the cyberspace version of limbo as I've lost my university account and have not yet signed up with a commercial provider. So, if you mail me using the header address, I'm not sure I'll be able to respond, but I'd welcome any comments.) - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 12:05:21 +0000 From: Brian Gowland <B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk> (Tel +44 784 443167) Subject: Re: yeast head contact with air is good? In HBD 1546, especkma at halcyon.com (Erik Speckman) wrote: > > [Brian Gowland cites his source for an earlier comment that yeast should be > left open to air once the fermentation is firmly established.] > > > Whilst I have no experience of detrimental effects of leaving the > > fermentation covered, I can say that I have not had any bad ferments > > when uncovered - the yeast seems to like it and thrives wonderfully. > > Around here I would worry about insects (mostly fruit flys) catching a > whiff of my estery wort and then suffocating in the CO2 blanket and dying > in my precious beer. At the very least I would keep the lid loosly on the > fermenter in my "brewery". > Insects are the only thing that give me concern about open-fermenting but I can honestly say that I have never found any dead fruit flys (or any other flies) on my yeast head when using this method. There are normally a number of fruit flies that try to get into my beer when I'm syphoning, but they seem to stay away from the open-fermenter. Strange but, so far, true. If anyone decides to try open-fermentation but are worried about beasties then I would suggest some form of mesh cover rather than a solid lid. Erik's words of caution may be more poignant to hotter climates - in Britain, the fruit flies wear overcoats due to the cold and damp and are probably not as active as in warmer places (the snow-shoes slow them down). :) Cheers, Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 07:24:01 EST From: "pratte" <PRATTE at GG.csc.peachnet.edu> Subject: bottles In yesterday's digest, Jim Blue mentions that he has been forced to drink Rolling Rock beer in order to get the small 7 oz. bottles. A possibly better source of small green bottles is Sprite. The glass in these bottles is very thick (no problem with breaking), the green is fairly dark (hopefully no light problems), and you don't have to drink Rolling Rock (although, you do have to drink Sprite, but you can always just give this to kids). I heartedly recommend these bottles for when you don't want a lot of beer. John Pratte-------------------------- Dr. John M. Pratte Clayton State College pratte at gg.csc.peachnet.edu - -------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 94 08:09:57 est From: A.J._deLange at csgi.com (A.J. deLange) Subject: Lagering Derek Bowen wrote: > What is the lowest temperature which I should lager at ...? It is generally accepted that the closer to freezing one can hold the beer, the better the result. Lagering times are shorter at colder temperatures and protein precipitation enhanced so that the result will be clearer. > Should I be lagering from day one or wait a few days before moving > the beer to the colder area? Generally speaking, lagers are pitched at quite cold temperatures and then allowed to warm up a bit (say to 45-48F) as the kreusen phase gets underway. At its end a brief excursion up to ale temper- atures (diacetyl rest) may then programmed followed by a gradual decline (a degree or 2 per day) to lagering temperature. Personally, I use this program down to 40F, then transfer to Cornelius kegs and hold at about 36 for a month. The kegs are then moved to a freezer at just about 32 for the final lagering. > Should I be racking the beer at some time or do all of the fermentation > in the primary fermenter? And if so, doesn't the racking leave behind > the yeast (after all, it is bottom fermenting!) Lagering will not be succesfull if you do not bring some yeast into the lagering vessel but you do not want too much. Yes, the beer should be racked and the primary fermentation should be over to the extent that most of the yeast has flocculated i.e. the beer is reasonably, if not crystal, clear. The usual problem with too much yeast is off flavors due to lysis of dead yeast cells. Lagering temperatures are cold enough that this process is greatly retarded so that a bit too much carried over is not likely to cause a problem. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Oct 1994 07:35:12 -0500 (EST) From: FLATTER%MHS at mhs.rose-hulman.edu Subject: OVERpitching/Munich-Vienna mash Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 08:33:47 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <David.Draper at mq.edu.au> Subject: Is it possible to OVERpitch??? One of our most experienced and knowledgeable members related his opinion that it is possible for homebrewers to introduce off flavors (in particular, diacetyl and/or DMS?) into their *ales* (not lagers, now) by pitching *too much* yeast. My knee-jerk reaction was "you can't pitch too much", having seen many many posts here to the effect that one of the biggest hurdles for homebrewers to overcome is pitching *enough* yeast. ++++++++++++++ During the initial stage the yeasts multiple and take up oxygen. [That's why you shake a carboy when you pitch yeast.] If too much oxygen is left in the wort before the yeast change to digest sugars to produce alcohol and CO2, I can see where the ethanol might break down to diacetyl; but DMS would require sulphur. I don't see that a yeast would effect DMS. - -------------- Date: Thu, 6 Oct 1994 10:42:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Willits <willits at camelot.Stanford.EDU> Subject: Specialty Malts 1. Are caramunich and caravienna the same as munich and vienna malts? I would use them interchangeably. Then again, I probably would use any one of the four for the other. They are sold by the same vendor as different, but I haven't seen how they differ. 2. I have read in different places that munich and vienna malts are crystal malts and also that they need to be mashed. It was my understanding that crystal malts do not need to be mashed. Is this correct? No, not from what I have seen. Crystal has a low enzyme level, meaning it needs to be mashed w/ something else w/ a more enzymes. [I use a 2-row, 6-row, Carapils (Dextrin), etc.] Munich and vienna are high in enzyme levels and do not need additional grains to supply necessary enzymes. 3. Does dextrin malt need to be mashed? Yes, but it might only be a one-step infusion mash. [Read as: put the grains in, bring water to boil, remove grains.] 4. I have read that crystal malts can break down at mash temperatures. Is it a good idea to put them in just before the mashout? Again, I put them in at the start of the mash because they do not contain the needed enzymes to convert the protein to sugars. - -------------- Neil Flatter Rose-Hulman Institute of Technology Chemistry - Math (CMA) Department of Chemistry Stockroom Manager Novell Supervisor 5500 Wabash Avenue 73 (812) 877 - 8316 Terre Haute, IN 47803-3999 FAX: 877 - 3198 Flatter at MHS.Rose-Hulman.Edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 10:01:37 -0300 (ADT) From: Ed Hitchcock <ehitchcock at sparc.uccb.ns.ca> Subject: copper bottoms/ rollermills Instead of fusing copper to the bottom of the stainless kettle, just put a 1/8" (what would that be, 12 guage?) plate of copper on your burner and sit the pot on it. No need to actually fuse the two. I thought of doing this if I ever get a propane ring burner and 1/2 bbl keg-kettle, since my friends with these have reported them as notorious for scorching (stainless is a lousy heat conductor). For roller mill spacing, George Fix wrote an article in the fall 1994 issue of Zymurgy that covers spacing. As for knurling, I'm sure Jack would be delighted to give you the history as to why he switched from longitudinal to diamond knurling. He will also expalain why it is cheaper to buy one of his, and if you're in the states I think he's right. (here in CAN the end price for a MM is up over $200 once you include taxes and shipping and exchange rate...) --------------- | Ed Hitchcock | Meet mt two dogs. This is my dog Ma, | Biology Dept. | and this is my dog Earl. | UCCB, NS, Can | UCCB doesn't take my word for it, why should you? --------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Oct 94 09:20:32 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: chlorine troubleshoot Okay, I hate the troubleshooting questions when they come up on HBD, but I got a problem and cannot figure it out. My previous batch (2 weeks ago) has a distinct chlorine smell and taste. This is after it's all done & bottled. I assume there can't be chlorine in the batch, since the yeasties worked fine during ferment and in making a nice carbonation in the bottle. This was a full-mash pale ale, and the only peculiarity I can identify is that I let the mash-out at the end go too high (answering a phone call), and I actually got some (not much--localized I think) boiling during mash out. Now, my most recent batch, just bottled, has the same chlorine smell and taste (though it's a dark stout and the chlorine is masked a bit). Again, yeasties are working fine. I can't identify anything that went wrong. I was just going to toss the first batch and figure it was my one major unexplained screw-up for the year (hopefully the only one). Now with the same nose in the second batch I'm worried. My wife says our soft city water has had more chlorine in it lately (her sniffer is much better than mine), but I called the city water dept and they said the only change recently is something they've been adding to the water to treat lead pipes (sorry, I blank out on chemical terms, the result of this particular Chem 101 class 20 years ago). By the way, the only other unaccounted for variable is that I just started with a new 50-pound bag of Schrier 2-row. I assume it's normal. All ideas will be appreciated. Tossing whole batches seriously upsets my supply/demand balance. Cheers Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 9:24:08 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steve Veillette, WCSU Information Systems" <VEILLETTE at WCSUB.CTSTATEU.EDU> Subject: RE: Yeast head contact with air / Irish Ale yeast Yeast head contact with air - --------------------------- In the Brewery Planner, put out by the IBS, one of the articles disucusses the advantages and disadvantages of open and closed fermentation. One of the advantages for open fermentation is (and I paraphrase, 'cause I ain't got the book here at work...) Yeast head contact with air is important because it makes the yeast cells more virile for re-pitching into another batch. Makes sense to me, since yeast need oxygen to reproduce. I can get the actual quote tomorrow... Irish Ale yeast - --------------- Many thanks to the people who responded to my post about the enthusiasm of the Irish Ale yeast. The consensus seems to be that this strain gets *very* excited about fermentation. After careful thought, I believe the infection was present from the very beginnig in my starter culture- OUCH! Sanitize, sanitize, sanitize... Anyway, I will be brewing with the Irish Ale yeast again this weekend, and I will be sure to connect a blowoff tube to the 6 gal. primary. -Steve +-------------------------------+ | Stephen P. Veillette | | Information Systems | Ya know, I can't remember | Western CT State University | *not* knowing how to brew. | VEILLETTE at WCSU.CTSTATEU.EDU | +-------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 94 10:04:14 -0500 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: Sankey Fermenters Mark writes in HBD#1546: >For 3 years, I have been using 1/2 barrel Sankey kegs as fermenters with >great success. I put in on my King Kooker and boil to sanitize. To clean, >I used a soak of Super Washing Soda, which seemed to work. Earlier, I used >caustic and acid wash, but gave up with a small child helper in and around >the brewery. One particularly virgorous blow off left a stain on the >underside of the top that I could feel with my fingers. That stain would >not go away. Last week, I decided to cut the top off and survey the damage. >I found what looked like rust stains above where the wort level would have >been. It was really dried krausen. With some elbow grease, I managed to >get it sparkling clean and I am doing an open ferment with a belgian strong >ale. The area in direct contact with the wort were clean, but they did have >a film of what I guess was beer stone. This is an extremely important observation, and the phenomena Mark describes is not uncommon with stainless fermenters. Beer stone and related "hard films" start off at small and barely perceptible levels. Once formed, however, they grow to a point where it is nearly impossible to remove them. Thus, it is crucial that they be removed when they first appear. I use with the unmodified kegs the following rather standard cleaning cycle. The first step is pre-cleaning with a hot water spray. The second is an alkaline wash/soak (washing soda, TSP, or caustic) followed by a hot water rinse. Sequesting is done on the cold side with a 1% phosphoric acid wash. Sanitizing can be done with boiling water (as much caution is needed for this as with a caustic) or iodophor. The phosphoric sequestering wash is great for removing inorganics from alkaline cleaners. It, alas, is not very effective against beer stone. Therefore, after the cleaning cycle I carefully investigate the interior of the keg with a small flashlight. The color of the film is as Mark described, and it will first appear in small and isolated patches. The only way known to me to effectively remove beer sone is with a 5% nitric acid solution, and even with this a carboy brush is needed. Maximal precaution should be exercised (glove, goggles, etc.) for this is really nasty stuff. It is hard to predict when beer stone will start to appear. I once went ~2 years without a trace of these films, and boom on the next brew they started to appear. As a rough and ready rule one should be prepared for one to two nitric sequesters per year, yet visual inspection with a flashlight should be done with each brew to determine actual practice. I value unmodified kegs as fermenters primarily they permit an easy way to transfer fermented beer to storage kegs in a closed system. In particular, sealing up the keg and pushing into say cornelius kegs with CO2 prevents exposure of the fermented beer to the ambient environment. In addition, if the receiving tank is purged with CO2 before transfer and if a slight CO2 bleed from it is used during transfer, then one can be assured of ~0 dissolved O2 levels during beer storage. Cleaning these kegs is no picnic, and every time I do it the temptation to go to open fermenters grows! I guess the moral is that there is no "free lunch" in brewing. If one wants the advantages of a closed system, then one must be prepared to pay the price, and on these sort issues honest folk will undoubtly come to different conclusions. George Fix P.S. I look forward to meeting HBDers who will be attending the Dixie Cup. All the signs are indicating that this one is going to be the best ever! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 94 09:03:26 -0600 From: lmsabo at mbnoa1.mnet.uswest.com (L M Sabo) Subject: Re: Raspberry Beer I've made a couple of all-grain wheat beers (one two-step mash and the other was a three step decoction mash) both had the common chill haze. Although the decoction mash yielded much clearer beer in my case, chill haze was still present. I was curious if the Weizen extracts also were prone to chill haze or if the commercial manufacturers are able to filter out the proteins. _Michael Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 08:19:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven Lichtenberg <steve at Pentagon-EMH6.army.mil> Subject: Free yeast---Observations Greetings all-- The other day I was at the local brew pub talking to the brewer and came up with some interesting observations. I asked him about getting some yeast and as has been my experience often in small breweries he said "sure" just bring in a container and get all you want. This is a great way to not have to worry about starters and growing yeast for days/weeks just to brew. Simply go the the nearest brew pub have a few pints :-) and get as much starter yeast as you need. FREE!!! Not a bad solution..... While I was there, I noticed the brewer was cleaning his copper kettles with a solution of yeast DE and acid. The oxidation came off in seconds. The copper was shining in no time. He said he learned that technique while he was working at A-B. Really worked great. It reminded me of when in another life we used to clean the griddles with pickle juice. a good method for using something you would otherwise be throwing away.. I asked the brewer there about what he does with all his spent grains and he said he gives it to a couple of local farmers to feed to the cows. He also stated that A-B used to take all of their spent grain, used hops and spent yeast and run it through a dryer and then sell it to Frank Purdue to feed to his chickens. they would get $120-140 per dried ton from him. that was more than they spent per ton for grain!! No wonder A-B makes >$1million per day. They take their garbage and sell it for more than their raw materials. Just an interesting thought.... Keep brewing... **** ---- "There's always time for a Homebrew!" ---- **** C|~~| -------------- Steven Lichtenberg ------------- C|~~| `--' -------- steve at pentagon-emh6.army.mil ------- `--' ------------------------------------------- ENJOY LIFE--THIS IS NOT A REHEARSAL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 94 9:24:35 MDT From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM Subject: Homebrewed Roller Mill Chris Barnhart wants to make his own roller mill: >1. I'm going to have the rollers machined at a local shop. I can >get them straight or diamond knurled, any preference? Also what Are you saying your options are a "straight knurl" or a "diamond knurl"? I know what diamond knurling is, but I don't understand straight knurling. Maybe I misunderstand though, and you mean "smooth" or "diamond knurled". If this is the case, definitely get the knurling (get some kind of knurling), because... >is the optimum diameter for the rollers? I thought I would use >1 1/2 inch x 8 inches long. 1 1/2" rollers are not very big. I used 3 1/2" pipe for my rollers and was able to get away with roughing them up with a belt sander and 60 grit paper. Any smaller than this would require a rougher surface, e.g. knurled. The length isn't critical unless you're worried about throughput; 8" is fine. Throughput is an overrated mill specification for homebrewers, IMHO. My mill crushes 10 lbs. of grain in less than a minute. If it took 5 or even 10 minutes, it wouldn't bother me a bit. >2. I would like to motorize the mill. What size motor, torque >rating, rpm, etc. would work best. I seem to remember a post >saying you need at least a 1/4 HP motor, but don't think it >mentioned required torque or rpm. My motor is a Maytag washing machine motor. I don't have it here at work because they won't let me bring it in anymore and show it off ;-), but you can take a look at a typical washing machine motor. With four pulleys you can slow it down to a reasonable speed. If you'd like me to go read the specs off the motor (and measure the pulleys), email me and I'll do it. >3. How to set the roller spacing for the best grind. Thought >I'd use a feeler guage to get the spacing. Anyone seen a chart >that gives settings for different grains? What about a rule of >thumb like "set the gap 1/2 the diameter of the grain". I think a good rule of thumb is to start at .050" and adjust from there. Look at the ?Summer? 1994 Zymurgy for a couple of articles about the available commercial mills. You can get a lot of good information from them. Cheers, Norm = npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Oct 94 11:30:15 EDT From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.COM Subject: more on wheat / alcohol content / bjcp records / ZYMURGY - -------------------- Mail Item Text Follows ------------------ To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: more on wheat / alcohol content / bjcp records / ZYMURGY 1) Thanks to everyone for the wheat extract information. Today's post (P.Gravel) mentions the Ireks--I assume he meant 6.6 pounds, not 3.3. Everything I've heard about it suggests that it won't be especially light coloured. Alexander's, however, does have a wheat extract and the local homebrew shop does, it turns out, carry it. When I called, he said he must have spaced out to have forgotten about it. His quick read of the label while talking to me on the phone suggests that it is 100% wheat, but even if it's the 60-40, the colour is what is important to me right now. When I asked about the Ironmaster 100%, he said it doesn't show up in any of his suppliers' catalogues. The word I got on that was from Montreal, so perhaps Canadian distributors do and more southerly distributors don't carry it. 2) "Dodger" asks about alcohol content for his huge beer.(If it's any good, enter it in our "Big and Huge" competition next May.) No, it's not only a matter of subtracting specific gravities. Depending on what you read, you need to add 5 or 7 percent to get alcohol by weight. Alcohol by volume, the more realistic measure IMHO, is 25% more than alcohol by weight. Therefore (OG-FG)*1.05 (or 1.07) for alc by wt, multiply that by 1.25 for alc by vol. Shift the decimal point as needed depending on whether you drop the decimal on the gravities. The .129 figure you were given is a little less than that, but it's in the ballpark. It's possible that the numbers I learned were only approximations. The calculation difference is pretty trivial, especially given the probability of slight measurement error in recording the gravities anyway. 4) Yes, I, too, noticed the errors in the ZYMURGY special issue upon only a brief skim. I paid a little more attention to the specific article mentioned because it was written by a founding member of our club (whom I have not met because he does not live in Madison) and mentioned another club member (still in the area). Naturally, the article caught my eye. (Others in the club noticed it also because it came up when I brought our club copy to this week's meeting.) I'm going to assume editing/production problems in Colorado. It won't be the first time it happened. Frankly, I'm less concerned about that kind of error because it's so obvious than I would be about errors that might not be readily noticed by the average brewer. There's a lot of ZYMURGY-bashing in this forum, but I have to give them credit for this issue, errors and all. I don't want every issue to have such an emphasis on recipes, but this issue did have, at first glance at least, a certain "freshness"--especially compared with recent issues that were dreadfully "thin" in content. Congratulations on a decent issue! 3) Almost forgot this one.... Today's digest also mentions BJCP experience points and an extra fee for BJCP members who are not AHA members to maintain experience records?!?!?!? The $2 might not be a big deal, but I thought that BJCP exam fees are as high as they are because they are needed to cover the administrative costs of the program. Sanctioning fees are also said to go toward administrative costs of recording experience, et cetera. It says so right on the sanctioning forms, if I recall correctly. If there's an extra fee for those lacking current paid AHA memberships, it may explain why we have a judge who thought he had the points for national is listed as certified--it might be that his points stopped being recorded once he stopped renewing his ZYMURGY subscription. Do not misunderstand me--I do not _know_ this to be the case. I don't even know that what I read in HBD about the extra fee was accurate. I am simply saying that one of our judges believed himself to have reached "national" rank according to the BJCP criteria, but he was listed as "certified" on a judge list I received a couple of competitions ago. I just wonder whether what was reported in the digest might explain it and if other judges have had similar experiences. Also, will a retake score lower than the original exam drop someone's rank, or is the higher score kept? _I_ haven't had any problems with the AHA or the BJCP; I do, however, want to know what to make of all that I read about other folks' experiences with them. Sorry to end this post on such a "down" note, Bob Paolino Disoriented in Badgerspace Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 94 9:28:33 MDT From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM Subject: Water Heater Conversion Carl Zwanzig writes: >Charlie Papazian mentions in a couple of his books that a resourceful >Home Brewer could convert a gas hot water heater into a propane burner >for use in brewing. It so happens that I have an unused gas hot water >heater, and I was wondering if anyone would know how to go about >converting it. Many thanks... I didn't know Charlie had mentioned it, I thought it was my own idea! Well, its really quite simple. First of all you need to make sure any conversion is needed at all. If the water heater is made for propane, you are done! If it is made for natural gas you'll have to convert it. Propane has more BTUs, i.e. potential energy than natural gas. It needs more air per volume of gas, or conversely, less gas per given amount of air. Since you can't easily give the burner more air, you should give it less gas. This is done by changing the jet in the burner to the appropriate smaller size. A jet is simply a fitting with a hole in it. The size of the hole regulates how much gas flows through at a given pressure. You need to remove the burner and locate the jet, usually at the bottom of the burner element. Unscrew it and take it to a local business that fills propane bottles. Tell them you want to rejet your water heater for propane. They'll match up the jet size on a chart and sell you the appropriate one for propane (that's what mine did). It cost all of about 3 bucks or something. Install it and fire it up, literally! I haven't used an entire water heater, tank and all, but I have used the guts from old ones to heat kegs and such. It works great and is the ultimate in cheap burners. Of course, I had to construct a proper stand, etc. in each case, but it gives me the advantage of being able to doctor the water since I have the top open. I don't think you could safely cut the top off a water heater; they are usually glass-lined steel tanks. Oh, a nice needle-valve on the gas to regulate the flame is an added bonus. Good luck, Norm npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 94 08:33:22 PDT From: kens at lan.nsc.com (Ken Schroeder) Subject: Liberty Ale recipe request Hi Fellow Brewers, I'm looking to create a Liberty Ale clone recipe. I have the Cat's Meow recipe but, in general, I try to look at 3 or 4 different recipes before formulating my own. I am also interested in finding out some of the Anchor specifics. In particular: What 2 row malt does Anchor use? What ale yeast is used in Liberty Ale? Which hops are used and what is the schedule? Please save bandwidth and respond to kens at lan.nsc.com. Thanks in advance. Ken Schroeder Sequoia Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 06 Oct 1994 10:35:11 -0400 (EDT) From: VIALEGGIO at ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: Star anise, anyone? State University of New York at Stony Brook Stony Brook, NY 11794-5475 Victor Ialeggio Music 516 632-7239 06-Oct-1994 10:31am EDT FROM: VIALEGGIO TO: Remote Addressee ( _homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com ) Subject: Star anise, anyone? I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has recently brewed a Belgian with addition of star anise/orange peel--amounts,boil/steep time, reduction of a hops (if indicated), etc...e-mail is fine. Thanks vialeggio at ccmail.sunysb.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 08:50:52 -0700 (PDT) From: gbaldw at zaphod.usin.com (Gordon Baldwin) Subject: Re: Overpitching > From: David Draper <David.Draper at mq.edu.au> > Subject: Is it possible to OVERpitch??? > > Dear Friends, last night at the club tasting, one of our most experienced > and knowledgeable members related his opinion that it is possible for > homebrewers to introduce off flavors (in particular, diacetyl and/or DMS?) > into their *ales* (not lagers, now) by pitching *too much* yeast. My > knee-jerk reaction was "you can't pitch too much", having seen many many > posts here to the effect that one of the biggest hurdles for homebrewers > to overcome is pitching *enough* yeast. My cohort cited as an example of > overpitching using the entire yeast slurry from a secondary to repitch > into a second batch (of the same size as the first). I have experienced this. I have siphoned the wort of one beer onto the sludge of another. When I have done this I get explosive fermentation on the order of complete fermentation in less than 48 hours. The beers have always come out with fairly strong "yeast bite". This mellows after a few weeks in the keg and the beers have always been very good. I have also taken about 1/2 of the slurry and pitched that. I have not had the yeast bite when I do this. I usually end up with about 1 gallon of slurry/break/hop bits in the bottom of the primary. There is a couple of orders of magnitude of difference between 1 gallon of slurry and the contents of a Wyeast yeast package. Even with a starter I am usually short of 1 quart of slurry at pitching time. I find there is a "sweet spot" at somewhere between 1 quart and 1/2 gallon of slurry that give a quick and smooth fermentation. The beer clears better and there are no off tastes. This seems to change with the different strains of yeast and fermentation temperature. My usual yeast is Wyeast 1007. - -- Gordon Baldwin gbaldw at usin.com Olympia Washington Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 07 Oct 94 12:24:00 PDT From: "Hutchinson, Sharon - Cust. Sup" <SHUTCHIN at plaza.kde.state.ky.us> Subject: Don't remove I am sure my mail has bounced this week. Our Internet connection has been down. Please do not remove my name from the mailing list. Thank you Sharon Hutchinson Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 94 12:31:56 EDT From: fastarke at rickstr.mawes.ingr.com (Rick Starke) Subject: Re: Trippel vs Tripel OK, I'm sorry, I referred to SA Triple, vs real "trippel" as a marketing strategy. Thanks to Tom McGuinness (sp?) aka Big Brother, for informing this humble newbie of the fact that it is "tripel" oops. I think I'll relax and have a homebrew. - -- Rick Starke New England Customer Service Branch Support Analyst mailpath: fastarke at rickstr.mawes.ingr.com Phone: (508)836-1285 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 10:29:17 -0700 From: barry at odf.UCSD.EDU (Barry Nisly) Subject: Can you rack too early? / Pale Malt Mash question I brewed my first all-grain two weeks ago. I even made a starter for my yeast this time (Wyeast 1338). It fermented in the primary for 5 days. When I racked it, there were yeast(?) chunkies floating on top and stuck to the bottom. I'm pretty sure this was after the krausen. While in the secondary, it took a day or two for the yeasties to get started again. I thought I had racked too early. When I racked my previous extract batches, they seemed to take off immediately. I worried a little. Then it went into a "normal" secondary fermentation. End worrying. Does this just reinforce the previous discussion that 1338 is a mixed strain and is slow to finish? Or is there such a thing as racking too early? In other news: Andrew Patti followed net protocol by summarizing his responses to his "why mashout?" question (Cheers, Andy). He said that not doing a mash-out could lead to over-converting and a "thin" beer. I followed Miller for mash instructions (2 hrs. at 152F). Papazian suggests a step-mash (20 min at 150F & 20 min at 158F). The time difference between the two is substantial. Do Miller's directions lead to over-converting? FWIW, I used 9# of Briess pale malt. Patiently planning all-grain batch #2, Barry Nisly bnisly at ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 10:47:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Patrick Weix <weix at netcom.com> Subject: Dry Yeast--Some words Hi all, This is your yeast faq editor calling specifically for information on the dry yeasts. Several people continue to use these yeasts, and I would like their opinions on the best and the worst. My opinion: a nice dry yeast with a clean pleasant taste is the Red Star Ale yeast. I have used it in many brown ales and a nice stout. I do prefer the liquid yeasts, and I'm currently making a nice red ale with Wyeast 1968 which has gotten pretty good press. Still,I usually have some dry yeast around just in case a starter bombs out or I feel lazy. Patrick "The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away." Tom Waits /------------------------------------------------------------\ | Patrick Weix weix at netcom.com | | UT Southwestern Medical Center weix at utsw.swmed.edu | | 5323 Harry Hines Blvd tel: (214) 648-5050 | | Dallas, TX 75235 fax: (214) 648-5453 | \------------------------------------------------------------/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 7 Oct 1994 14:27:50 -0400 From: dmdesroches at elwood.wpi.edu (David Desroches) Subject: Brewing with Maple sap I have been reading the various posts on using maple syrup with interest and was wondering whether anyone has brewed using maple sap instead of water? Papazian mentions it briefly in the same area as using maple syrup. My wife's cousin makes his own syrup and I could probably get 5-6 gallons from him (he appreciates good beer and I'm sure I could bribe him sufficiently). I am new to homebrewing (bottled my first batch last Sunday) and hope to have enough experience by the March time frame to be able to handle any complexities that this type of recipe may entail (then again it could be the same as what I am currently doing). ************************************************************************ * David M. Desroches * For our struggle is not with flesh and * * dmdesroches at jake.wpi.edu * blood but with the principalities, with * * Worcester Polytechnic Int. * the powers, with the rulers of this * * (508) 831-5487 * present darkness, with the evil spirits * * * in the heavens. Eph 6-12 * ************************************************************************ Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Oct 1994 11:37:38 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Re: Metal Plating Brew Kettles Sturdy wrote: Can I use a battery and a chemical bath to plate copper or aluminum onto the bottom of my stainless steel brewing kettle. The short answer is "No". The short explanation is the process needs to be done in a lab with the appropriate safety equipment. For this type of plating to really stick and be thick enough to do any good, it takes a high electrical current and a cyanide bath. Other chemical baths will work, just not as well. Still, metal plating is just not practical for the do-it-yourselfer. John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1547, 10/08/94