HOMEBREW Digest #1560 Mon 24 October 1994

Digest #1559 Digest #1561

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  I'm not NOMAD, and I can't sterilize fer beans ("Steven W. Smith")
  Dry Hopping in the keg. (JoeG701884)
  Firestone/Samuel(tm) Adams(tm) Mittelfrueh(tm) Hops(tm) (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Brewing research & hops (Henry E Kilpatrick)
  Lambic Digest (BrewerLee)
  Alergies (r.mau2)
  New Club (John_Degrazia)
  Re: Hole Size in the Whirpool Siphon Ring? (Gary Bell)
  Hop discussions:  LEAVES-not!/ BUSHES- not!/ PT wood- not! (COYOTE)
  Yeast Starters- revisited (COYOTE)
  Mail-Bombin' Morons (Richard A Childers)
  Re: Wife, pissed off variety ("Roger Deschner  ")
  Insulated cooler use ("Seth L. Betaharon")
  Are AHA guidelines a joke? ("Ulick Stafford")
  Peak Flavor and Expiration of Homebrew (Glenn E. Gearhard)
  oak spoons, B-Brite ("Charles S. Jackson")
  dry hopping (ANDY WALSH)
  hop seeds (Mike  Schrempp)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 12:52:44 -0700 (MST) From: "Steven W. Smith" <SYSSWS at gc.maricopa.edu> Subject: I'm not NOMAD, and I can't sterilize fer beans I had an interesting brewing experience recently. I was making a pretty generic wheat/honey ale using Wyeast Belgian Abbey (don't have the number). After secondary fermentation was done, I decided it was *Boooring*, added 5 pounds of strawberries and let it ferment out. Still pretty pedestrian, so I went to my local grocer and bought 5 1/2 pounds of fresh peaches :-) After racking off the peaches 2 weeks later (geez, not even pantyhose work well with *that* much goo) I let it sit for it's third "secondary" and discovered that I had a Wild Yeast Infection (oh no! the shame). It manifested itself as a scary-looking layer of white bubbly scum on the surface of the beer. It seems to have added a rather appropriate sourness that complements the peaches nicely - I didn't have to add the lactic acid that I bought for it :-) Anyway, the info part of this monologue: after bottling, each bottle has it's own mini-scum up in the neck. I discovered that if I jostle the bottle a bit before it goes into the 'fridge the wild yeast will settle to the bottom of the bottle with it's tame brethren. No more icky lookin' scum floaties to scare the timid. If anyone is actually interested in the recipe, mail me. I *like* it, YMMV. _,_/| \o.O; Steven W. Smith - Systems Programmer, but not a Licensed Therapist =(___)= Glendale Community College, Glendale Az. USA U syssws at gc.maricopa.edu If you're not a part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 16:33:39 -0400 (EDT) From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: Caledonian Brewery Trip HBD people, I mentioned I would post a description of my visit to the Caledonian Brewery in Edinburgh, Scotland on Sept. 27, 1994, so here it is. My wife and I went there on a Tuesday afternoon to meet our tour guide, a Mr. George Thomson (no "p"). He was a retired brewer who mainly did the tours and some brewing when needed. The other people who were supposed to be on the tour, never showed up, so Mr. Thomson spend about 2.5 hours with just us. The brewery is in a fairly old building since it was established in 1869. It has changed hands many times recently, and I cannot remember the details but it is once again independent. It makes cask conditioned ales and bottled ales and has won several CAMRA awards in the last several years. There was a serious fire in the brewery in June of this year that burnt down the malting area and mill area and almost penetrated the brewery proper. Luckily the fireman were able to contain the fire so the brewery was saved. They now must buy their grain premalted and crushed. I believe they use mostly English 2-row barley from the south of Great Britain. He made a point of saying they did not add sugar to their wort. The water used to be obtained from a well right under the brewery, but drilling for shale oil polluted the groundwater. They now use city water which I think comes from mountain resevoirs. They obtain their hops from all over the world, and use old, poor looking hops for bittering. For aroma and flavor they use better grade hops from California, New Zealand, and Eastern Europe as well as England if I remember correctly. They use specially grown organic hops for their Golden Promise Ale, an organic beer. We went into the hop room which contained to big bales of hops, and Mr. Thomson told us to crush some in our hands and smell them. They were wonderful!! They use pretty much a single step infusion mash system and have rakes in the mash turns, however, they do not make use of them. They use open copper kettles (I was told the oldest still in operation) that were originally coal fired, but now use natural gas. Mr Thomson told me they use what is essentially a hop-back or bed of hops to filter the wort, but I did not see this. I do not know if they worry about hot-side aeration or if air is excluded from the hop filter. The wort is then cooled using a counter-current system in which they reuse the heated water. They use large stainless steel open fermenters with apparently no concern about sterile air. The tanks are quite large and deep--I would estimate about 10x12x12 feet (width, length, depth), and they have cooling pipes running through the fermenter to adjust the temperature. They skim the kruesen at least once/day. After fermentation ( I can't remember the length of time but I think it was about a week) they save the yeast and compress it again for reuse. [When the yeast is too old, we were told it was sent to the Scotch distillery!] I believe they do a rough filtering but I am not sure on this point. For bottled beer they do pasterize it. They mainly send out cask-conditioned ale which is conditioned in the keg for about a few days (again my memory is not great). They use isinglass for fining. After the tour, we had a few beers and met with some of the workers who were relaxing with a warm one after a hard day's work. We tried their 70 and 80 s bitters which were both quite good, but our favorite was the R&D Deuchars India pale ale. It was malty, smooth, well hopped, and beautifully balanced. Mr. Thomson gave us each a bottle of MacAndrews Scotch Ale to take home, and this tour was one of the highlights of our trip to Scotland. Mr Thomson was a wonderful guide and gentleman. I apologize for any errors I might have made, but I did not take notes on the tour, and I could not always understand the accent ! Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 18:46:32 -0400 From: JoeG701884 at aol.com Subject: Dry Hopping in the keg. >Date: Thu, 20 Oct 94 10:38:41 EDT >From: The new moon sky rises in the cool October night deep in the White >Mountains 20-Oct-1994 1034 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> >Subject: dryhopping advice here >on another subject: >those who dry-hop in the keg: is it ok to leave the hops in the keg for >up to 1-2 months? or, should they be removed after a few weeks? >jc I left a hop bag (loaded with sanitized glass marbles) in a keg for 5 months. It was no problem, and the beer got better and better. The hops I used were Perle, but I don't know if that is relevant. Worst problem was cleaning the hop leaves off the marbles for next use. Also, on the quality of hops discussion, I bought the above mentioned Perle from Freshhops and I could not have been happier. A year later, I still have some Freshhops Hallertauer in my freezer and it still looks good (nice and green) and smells great. Joe Greco "Any Bud is bad Bud" JoeG701884 at AOL.COM Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Oct 94 17:27:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Firestone/Samuel(tm) Adams(tm) Mittelfrueh(tm) Hops(tm) Gordon writes: >Not so fast Al. My "A" kegs are all Firestone and they are all ball >lock. I picked them up from my local Pepsi distributor for $10 each. >They were getting rid of them so they could go all Cornelius to save on >spares cost and such. Maybe not all Firestone are created equal. Indeed, that's what I meant. The Firestone ball-lock fittings are a 9/16-18 (or 11/16-18 on older models) thread for the gas and a 5/8-18 (or 3/4-18 on older models) thread for the liquid. The Firestone pin-lock fittings are 9/16-18 (or 3/4-14) for the gas (which will swap), but is 9/16-18 (or 3/4-14) for the liquid (which is the problem). The same is true for John Wood and Alloy Products kegs. On the other hand, both the ball- and pin-lock fittings on Cornelius kegs are 9/16-18 on both gas and liquid. Now you may say, "Hey! Why not use the 9/16-18 Cornelius fittings on the Firestone tanks. I've tried and the problem was that the seat was a different height -- i.e. no matter how hard I cranked down on the fitting, there was always some leakage from where the fitting met the tank. Not a *little* leakage -- so much you could HEAR gas hissing. By the way, if you do order these things I've called fittings above, you want to ask for a "tank plug assembly." *********** Michael writes: >I read a similar article in "Midwest Beer Notes". Jim Koch of BBC (TM) states >that he will make 1200 pounds of the rare Hallertau Mittelfrueh hops available >to homebrewers. The price is $12 per 400 grams. One package per customer. He >is doing this because several years ago he rejected a shipment of the hops >due to poor qualitity only to find out that the shipment was sold to >homebrewers. Quote: "I think homebrewers deserve more respect and better >hops." > >I looked through all of my books and was unable to find a reference for >the Mittelfrueh variety of Hallertau. Is anyone else familiar with >Mittelfrueh? Hallertauer Mittelfrueh is indeed the most rare and prized variety of Noble hops. They are dwindling in supply due to the fact that they are very prone to a hop disease (Verticulum Wilt if memory serves correctly) and thus yields are very low. (As an aside, Mount Hood, Liberty and Crystal were bred to imitate Hallertauer Mittelfrueh and in terms of chemical analysis, the Liberty appears to be very, very close. I've never smelled actual Hallertauer Mittelfrueh, but suspect that Crystal, while it may be a great and interesting hop, seems too spicy to be close to any Hallertauer variety, in my opinion). I have been boycotting BBC products since I heard about his lawsuits against a couple of, let's say, much smaller breweries and was tiring of all the lies he puts in his ads (like his grandfathers century-old recipe -- Grandpa? Joe Owades -- brewery consultant), but I know he makes great beer and quite a selection too. I would like to believe that Koch is done suing everyone and flying straight, but I'm still skeptical. Could this hop sale just be a ploy to get on good terms with homebrewers, a big market for his beer, one that contains quite a few (me included) that continue to spread the truth about his previous actions? Is he done suing people? One of his recent ads contained no lies, as far as I know, just one flub ("the fruity esters of the yeast" -- in a lager???) He has been sending free T-shirts and hats to several HB competitions I've been to, so he's trying very hard to get us to like him. Can I start drinking SA again, Chuck? Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 20:33:03 -0400 (EDT) From: Henry E Kilpatrick <hkilpatr at mason1.gmu.edu> Subject: Brewing research & hops I would appreciate it if those of you who own or manage craft brewing operations would contact me. Among other things, I'm putting together some research on the info highway & craft brewers. I noted a few posts in the past couple of days on hops vines. I have a Hallartau vine that is at least 5 years old. The past summer was very hot, but also very wet & the vine didn't produce any cones. Does anyone have any notion as to the reasons. Buddy Kilpatrick hkilpatr at gmu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 1994 23:48:56 -0400 From: BrewerLee at aol.com Subject: Lambic Digest I'm looking for anyone who is a member of the Lambic digest to give me some info regarding a subscription. The address I was given doesn't work. E-mail is probably better, TIA. -Lee Bussy BrewerLee at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 94 17:34:00 UTC From: r.mau2 at genie.geis.com Subject: Alergies Earlier this week I had asked if home brewing will generate any unusual amounts of: Aspergillus Candida Penicillum Alternaria Caladosporium The following is a summary of the most usefull replies: ------------- A clean ferment will yield none of these common contaminants. Cleanup as you indicated should be done well as a pile of spent mash just sitting exposes outside will start to decompose. Most of the decomposition will be done by fungi of the kinds you mentioned. As long as the mash is put in the trash or composted you'll have no problems. Just relax and make a homebrew. You have nothing to worry about. Saccharomyces yeast is not at all related to Candida yeasts. They are totally different beasts. Eric Urquhart (eurquhar at sfu.ca) -------------- . . . clean up afterwards - molds like wort, but are seldom a problem in beer because they are aerobic. Ulick Stafford -------------- Thanks for the replies. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Oct 94 12:12:20 -0800 From: John_Degrazia at f1004.n202.z1.fidonet.org Subject: New Club Hello. My name is John DeGrazia, and I am the "Clubmeister" of San Diego's newest Home Brewing Club. We are sponsored by Ninkasi's Home Brew Supply Store and really think that we have a lot to offer our members. We promote extract and all grain methods and highly support the Micro Brewing revolution. Drop me a line for more information. We'd be glad to have you join us! Joh Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 10:15:48 -0700 From: gbell at ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell) Subject: Re: Hole Size in the Whirpool Siphon Ring? Jeff Frane writes: >I specifically recommended using the smallest possible >bit and drilling teeny, tiny holes in the under-surface >of the loop. God, I hate it when things get this technical. Would that English or Metric? G. "Quis dolor cui dolium?" Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 11:40:35 -0600 (MDT) From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu> Subject: Hop discussions: LEAVES-not!/ BUSHES- not!/ PT wood- not! Chris Lyons <Chris.Lyons at analog.com> and others have discussed: ...dry hopping with leaf hops ... I'm about to shout- so stuff some cotton in your ears if you're sensitive. BREWERS USE FLOWERS/WHOLE/FLAKE/CONES FROM HOPS. NOT THE LEAVES!!!!!!! DO NOT REFER TO HOP USE AS USING LEAVES FROM HOPS. THERE IS NO BITTERING OR AROMATIC QUALITY (ALPHA ACIDS) IN THE LEAVES OF HOP PLANTS!!!!!!!! (there....I feel better now. It's been said before. Now- it's done again) Cheap ascii drawing to illustrate: ------------------------------------ Vine (or bine- if you will) | \ | \ ------ \ / \ \ Ok- so my artwork is lame. \/\ /\/ /--\ Ascii drawing sucks (huh huh- heh heh) \/ /\ /\ But maybe you get the idea. Leaf \/\/\/ Look at a REAL text for REAL photos. /\/\/\ Just DON'T call them LEAVES. \/\/ I'll be glad to snail mail you hop leaves Cone if you want to try them in your brew! As for the bush vines discussion: Vines will grow on whatever the hay you give them to grow on. Hops are sun-lovers, like most southern californains. If the climbing surface does not allow for maximal sun exposure to leaf surfaces the production of the plant will suffer. Easy to compare- look at a plant that gets sunlight ALL day, vs. one which is shaded for half the day. You WILL see a difference. (assuming like varieties, soil, water...etc) If you live in a condo (1. I'm sorry for you, been there done that, 2. at least you probably have a hot-tub to share with all your neighbors, 3. with anyluck, some of your neighbors are foxy vixens with big hooters wearing scanty little bikinis and acting VERY friendly towards you, and your hops) or somewhere else where space is limited- and height is a problem: then Yeah sure...growing hops on a fence, or a low trellis, or climbing over an evergreen bush may be your only option. Go for it! Some fresh hops are better than no fresh hops at all. Plus- they are fun plants! I've seen a grape vine on an evergreen bush which produced tremendously. (and made a fine 10 gallons of red wine!) BUT...if you are planning to dedicate a space to hops- consider giving them some height to roam. Here's some of the advantages and reasons: 1. Sun - as stated. The more exposed leaf surface the more production. If you doubt me (as well you are entitled to) examine some of the hop cultivation techniques in the Yakima valley and Oregon hop farms. They are about 20 feet up, then over wires spaced well apart allowing for lots of sunshine, and breathing space. 2. Get them off the ground. Most of the pests and vermin likely to harass and infest your hops will start from the ground and work their way up. Included are spider mites, ants, fungus rots, and others. Japanese beetles, aphids, and other fliers are exempt from this concern. 3. Room- to get AT the hop CONES themselves, you need to work around the LEAVES and trust me- those buggers can get pretty bushy- even when grown upright. You need the space to be able to access the hops. I have NO problem with the trellis concept, in fact I plan to implement it myself (next spring) for the ever popular Cascade. But- why not take advantage of the qualities of a vine, and provide a bit of shade. Don't try to make a climber act like a bush, give 'em a little height to play. Make an arbor frame for them to climb over, or erect poles at least 8' high then let them work laterally to make a nice overhead trellis/lattice you can sit under and enjoy a bit of shade in the midst of a sweltering summer. If you want them against a house, run strings up to the roof-line, or put up a latticework and they'll make some shade for the house- Cool huh! just some ideas. Maybe I'll write an article for Zymurgy on growing hops. Then I can include some REAL pictures, not crappy ascii diagrams! BTW: The 20' pole/ string-pulley system worked great. All harvested and waiting for the leaves to drop before cutting them off. Was able to pull them down, and back up- for several pickings to optimize ripeness. *** >From: JUKNALIS at arserrc.gov >Subject: PT lumber- DANGER > I recall an issue of Organic Gardening a few months ago that mentioned that pressure treated lumber is treated with ARSENIC and CHROMIUM. It is thus unsuitable for use in gardening applications because it leaches these into the surrounding soil. Probably not the best stuff to grow hops on. An important concern to be noted. Also note- pressure treated can mean different things. treated is dif. from PT also. My poles were soaked in a diesel mix of nasty toxins. That's why the stuff works to inhibit rot. It's nasty! One way to help keep it out of the soil/hops is to bury the post in cement. That way you won't have direct soil-wood contact. My posts were also only treated on the lower 3', most of which is sunk into cement. I don't know how bad the threat from these toxins leaching into soil really is, but they are commonly used for various applications. One way out is to use a wood like cedar, or redwood. It really will take a long time to fully rot through a wood. But if you have any intention of a long lasting installation- then sink them into post mix. If you are likely to uproot the whole shibang in a year, then just pound some wood into the ground. It's NOT going to rot away in a year or two. 5 maybe... There's always the stringer off the side of the house option. Then you only need a stake in the ground to hold it in place. \-/-\-/ John (the Coyote) Wyllie SLK6P at cc.usu.edu \-/-\-/ BTW: if you don't want to put you e-mail at the bottom, don't. Don't do it just for me. I've figured out how to cope. So DOWHATYOUWANT. Hoppily brewin this afternoon. 1st lager of the season. Soon- I'll describe my cold lager storage space I'm building in the basement! Cost- pretty negligable. Mostly scavenged bits and pieces! Oooh lala! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 12:19:34 -0600 (MDT) From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu> Subject: Yeast Starters- revisited Subject: Yeast Starter and Agar Recipes There are a lot of differnt philosophies on start medium. Debates have raged- as debates are inclined to! My personal preference is to make a starter somewhere stronger than the 1.020 mark. More like 1.030, or 1.040. I think that falls about 1cup DME per gallon. Off the top of my head. I'm actually usually pretty lazy about measuring, and just put 4 to 8 tbsp into a liter flask. I've found that weaker starters don't really give the yeast a good enough boost to get them going well. I do like to let them ferment past high krausen and start to settle out before pitching. You don't want them in exponention, but in stationary phase for pitching so that they have good glycogen reserves to draw from. As for nutrient- antoher topic of debate. It will depend somewhat on the quality of your malt used in your starter. And how to determine that is a mystery the suppliers will probably never solve for us! There are also different kinds of nutrients. Ammonium sulfate, or phosphate is basically a supplier of nitrogen. The yeast extract type of nutrient will also add vitamins and amino acids which the yeast are likely to find useful. For a mead/cider/wine I would definitely add nutrient to the starter. For a brew...there should be plenty of these elements in a good malt, but to be certain that you have a good healthy/strong yeast culture to start that is not deprived of any essentials, you may wish to add nutrient. The amount you quoted seems reasonable. But- if anything- hedge on the side of not enough, as opposed to too much. You don't want to over-ammonify your bugs. Too much nutrient can be a bad thing. This has been accused of causing off flavors and long aging times to achieve drinkable meads. That is a different topic of debate in itself. My inclination is to add a little nutrient to the starter, and not add it to the ferment itself. As for agar: 15 grams per liter is the standard amount of agar for solid media in a micro lab. That's for plates or slants. Half that amount can be used to make overlays which are not as solid and thus allow more diffusion within the media. Personally I like my agar hard (as my eggs!) so that upon streaking I do not penetrate, unless intended. Now this is for bacto agar. For gelatin- or oriental store agar- I dunno. I'd guess about the same is good. For a real rough approximation- 15 grams is about a heaping tbsp full. YMMV. Be sure to melt the agar by heating the solution fully- i.e., boil and mix. Or you may get uneven distribution of the agar upon pouring. (e.g. first plate stays liquid, last plate is rock solid! Overexageration..but...) There are pre-made yeast media you can obtain. One advantage of these is that they pH is adjusted to a correctly low acidity (~pH5) to encourage yeast and discourage most bacteria/molds. You can get malt agar from Difco. They also have dextrose and maltose agars. I found maltose to grow bigger colonies. But there is some advantage to using plain old malt- the concept of giving the yeast an environment similar to what they are going to be pitched into. In every aspect- temp, pH, osmotic balance...etc. Basically- don't shock them! Make their transition into your wort as smooth and comfortable as possible. (compare with the old days of holding up a newborn and slapping their rump in a cold-bright hospital room, vs a warmed, dimly lit room and a gently rub) Hops: I love hops (as you are probably all well aware), but I've never bothered to put them in a starter. You can. Their preservative qualities are well documented. I'd just rather save them for the brew...and I treat my starters with enough care to ensure their purity before pitching. (no dog fur, no cat fur, no rodent droppings, no dust- no fuss!) Just pitch big and your yeast should dominate their environment! \-/-\ More words of...wisdom??? from the Coyote- SLK6P at cc.usu.edu \-/-\ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 12:14:01 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Richard A Childers) Subject: Mail-Bombin' Morons "Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 07:54:56 +48000 From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: TinyDave at aol.com "In HBD #1555 TinyDave at aol.com requests our public restroom graffitti. "Let's teach this little mass mailing twerp a lesson. Note that he specifically asks that you mail to an address other than his aol.com address. I am unsure of the AOL traffic tarriffs but they could not be pleased if TinyDave received say, 10 copies of HBD #1555 from each of us. Also complaints to the AOL management if one knows how to get a hold of them might help. "Let's inundate this vermin! Mail Megabytes of junk to TinyDave at aol.com "Domenick Venezia ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com" Domenick, First of all, I do not believe that it is appropriate, at all, to call for mail-bombing other individuals under any circumstances ( except if they have called for it to happen to others, perhaps ). Second of all, given the prevalence of electronic mail forgery, it is questionable whether (a) the source listed in the header, is the source of the offending email, or (b) whether the source and the target of the email are the same individual. ( In fact, the odds are against it. ) Third of all, it is really unwise for you to make such a statement from your work environment. If you want to be a rabble-rouser, get an account with Netcom. Don't drag ZymoGenetics into your personal squabble. Fourth of all, calling for people to publically attack another person, however indirectly and abstractly, can be considered conspiracy. I'd sit on my hands next time, if I were you. - -- richard ( who's really tired of mail-bombing morons. ) "I gathered I wasn't very well liked. Somehow, the feeling pleased me." _Nine Princes In Amber_, by Roger Zelazny richard childers san francisco, california pascal at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 15:13:22 CDT From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Re: Wife, pissed off variety All that elbow grease and mysterious, dangerous chemicals just for a clean stove? If you somehow manage to clean it off, it's just going to come back. Consider it the stamp of the Brewing Gods, and enjoy it. Easist way to fix the problem is to purchase a Cajun Cooker or similar device to brew on. It works better than a kitchen stove too, and boilovers on the patio can be cleaned up with a garden hose. What you lose is that marvelous brewing aroma that fills your home, although that too can annoy the wife, and you'll be fixing that problem as well. Then AFTER you switch to patio brewing, give your stove the Mother of All Cleanings, as described here. =============== "Civilization was CAUSED by beer." ===================== Roger Deschner University of Illinois at Chicago R.Deschner at uic.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 17:37:26 -0400 (EDT) From: "Seth L. Betaharon" <sethb at wam.umd.edu> Subject: Insulated cooler use I've been brewing extract beers for about two years now and have decided that it is finally time to switch to all grain brewing. I've read every source I could get my hands on and think that I have a pretty good idea of what is involved. After considering all the information that I've read, I think my best bet is to buy an insulated 10gal water jug, place a false bottom in it, and then use this as a mash-tun and as a lauter-tun. I would raise the temperature of the mash as necessary by adding boiling water and would use the false bottom to drain off the liquid and leave the spent grains behind. So, I have the following questions: What kind of results should I expect from such a setup? Will it work at all, or should I try a different setup? The Sports Authority sells a 10 gal insulated Coleman water jug which has a tap that seems to just come out with the turn of a nut (I didn't want to play with the display model too much and break it.) The price is only $30 - does anyone have experience using one of these? Thanks in advance for any responses - I know these may seem like fairly basic questions, but funds are kind of short right now and I'd like to waste as little money as possible on experimentation. Seth L. Betaharon sethb at wam.umd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 1994 16:42:03 -0500 (EST) From: "Ulick Stafford" <ulick at ulix.rad.nd.edu> Subject: Are AHA guidelines a joke? Recently, I posted a bellyache about bottles with raised lettering not being considered for ribbons, and received many responses from people about how one shouldn't violate the rules, etc., etc. However, while minor presentation faux pas will ensure a bottle does not win a ribbon, violating the most serious rule (IMHO) of a competition the object of which is to brew to style, does not seem to be a problem. In this years nationals it seems that an India Pale ale won best bitter and a doppelbock best Munich Dunkel. Given the two step nature of the nationals (and the inherent anti-water bias) strong beers seem to have a major advantage (for instance an Imperial stout won best stout, as usual, and a Weizenbock best Weizen). However, it seems unfair to brewers of weaker beer styles to give first place ribbons to beers approximately 4-6 B (.016-.024 SG) over the published upper limit in the style guidelines. It also demeans the weaker session beer classes. There is no way a beer with a 1.070 og was the best example of a bitter, or a beer with a 1.080 B og a Dunkel. I have complained in the past about the AHA guidelines being a little off in their hopping and color numbers, but few can measure these anyway. However, I do agree, more or less, with the gravity recommendations. Come on, Judges, give brewers of everyday session beers at normal strengths a chance. While I have no doubt that these two winning beers were the best beers judged in class, it is not right to give the award to them if they are obviously not to style. I do assume that National judges are as capable of telling the approximate alcohol and og of a beer as they are of telling whether the bottle has illegal raised lettering. __________________________________________________________________________ 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ... | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng. Pabst Blue Ribbon!' | Notre Dame IN 46556 http://ulix.rad.nd.edu/Ulick.html | Ulick.Stafford at nd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 94 15:49:00 PDT From: gegearha at nps.navy.mil (Glenn E. Gearhard) Subject: Peak Flavor and Expiration of Homebrew A posting last week asked about the aging of homebrew (ie: how long does it keep). The private e-mail answer that was passed referred mostly to the IBUs of the batch and the use of hops as a preservative - BUT, what about the alcohol content - does it also play a preservative factor??? The brewing notes I received from a local shop (in Chicago at the time) listed "peak" flavor periods based on the amount of malt. The higher the malt content, the longer the peak flavor period (ie) A Pale Ale with 6 lbs of liquid/DME peaks in 8-12 weeks. A Dopple Bock w/ 10 lbs malt extract peaks 16-24 weeks. What are your thoughts on this? I realize that hops provide a preservative factor, but also the alcohol content (and the amount of malt used to achieve the alcohol content) should also play a role in preservation. This concept goes along with the India Pale Ale being highly hopped and a little higher in alcohol to withstand the ocean voyage to India. I store my homebrew in a closet/room until I transfer it to the fridge just prior to consumption. I live (now) in Monterey CA, so the temps stay fairly mild 60-70 F year round. My questions are these: Is there a hop level/malt level chart that list peak flavor periods? What happens after this peak flavor period? Is there a point where homebrew goes bad? Finally, I guess I'm looking for some advice on whether I can extend the life of my homebrew with refrigeration. TIA, Glenn E. Gearhard gegearha at nps.navy.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 94 19:27:45 CDT From: "Charles S. Jackson" <sjackson at ftmcclln-amedd.army.mil> Subject: oak spoons, B-Brite Fellow brewers, As I continue toward building my grain setup I realize that my old spoon will not be large enough to reach the depths of my 15.5 gal converted keg kettle. A plastic paddle is rather expensive and so I have thought of fashioning a sort of paddle from a piece of oak. My question, What woods are used to make those kitchen utensils? Is oak an acceptable wood? What should be done with it, (if anything) before using it to stir wort? As I usually brew every even weekend and rack to a secondary on the odd weekends I make-use-discard a fair amount of B-Brite. Does anyone know the shelf life of reconstituted b-Brite? Also as I transition to the newer iodophor sanitizers, is there any reason why one could not make up 5 gallons of B.E.S.T.(tm) and keep it in a 5 gal plastic pail? Any idea how long it will be "good". The local homebrew shops (actually there are no local one but the ones I visit out of town) have ne idea how long these solutions should last. No mention in any of the texts I own either. Hoppy brewing to the *other* Steve Steve (sjackson at ftmcclln-amedd.army.mil) - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Brewing beer is far more exciting when it is both a hobby AND a felony! The Alabama Outlaw Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 94 11:09:28 +1000 From: ANDY WALSH <awalsh at ozemail.com.au> Subject: dry hopping At the risk of "flogging a dry hop" here is my contribution to this thread. I split a 10 gallon batch of IPA into 2. One was fermented with the Wyeast ESB yeast the other with 1056. After primary fermentation both were great, so I racked into secondary onto 1.8oz loose fuggles pellets (ESB batch) and 1.8oz loose Cascade pellets (1056 batch). I should point out we can only get some hop varieties as pellets over here due to quarantine restrictions. So both beers remained on the hops for two weeks, then the beer drawn off the top for bottling. Both are undrinkable now. They are intensely bitter (IBUs were about 40 for OG=1055), with a dirty, grassy flavour. So what did I do wrong? Too much hops? Interestingly, Dave Draper used the same amount in an IPA (cascade) and his beer turned out very well, with none of the dirty bitterness associated with mine. He used a hop bag, however. I for one shall stick to finish hopping in future unless some enlightened soul can point out the error of my ways. Hoppy brewing Steve, Andy W. (awalsh at ozemail.com.au) Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Oct 94 21:48:37 EDT From: Mike Schrempp <73764.306 at compuserve.com> Subject: hop seeds I just finished making a Brown Ale and used Fuggles Hops. When I opened the hops (whole), they were full of seeds. I have two questions: 1. Are Fuggles supposed to have seeds? 2. How can I cultivate these seeds? I seem to remember that hop growers got rid of male plants to prevent the female plants from going to seed. But I also seem to remember that some types are not cultivated this way. Mike Schrempp Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1560, 10/24/94