HOMEBREW Digest #1617 Thu 29 December 1994

Digest #1616 Digest #1618

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Michael Jackson Pocket Guide (EDGELL)
  Re: FAQ's and Better Brewing ("Lee Bussy")
  Ale-Champagne Yeast Question/Non-alc brew? (mike.snyder)
  Re: Propane Cookers (dburns)
  RE| Flat beer (Robert.Fike)
  Buds in a name? (Jeff Guillet)
  Timing of Pitching and Racking (Richard Buckberg)
  Getting started ("David Foulk")
  first time (Jeffrey M. Collins)
  Yeast 1187, propane cooker, flat beer, low S.G. ("nancy e. renner")
  Alewife (Ginniff)
  Rhino Chaser (Jeff Stampes)
  hops (John Farver)
  Grain mill (mlloyd)
  Jail House Brew (John W. Carpenter)
  BJCP EXAM, 1/28, AND GMHC, 4/8 (TAyres)
  Cry for help, flat beer, etc (GARY SINK 206-553-4687)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 9:25:07 -0600 (CST) From: EDGELL at uwmfe.neep.wisc.edu Subject: Michael Jackson Pocket Guide HBD, I was given Michael Jackson's Pocket Guide to Beer for christmas. It is the one first published in 1991. My question is: Is there a more recent edition? I seem to recall an advertisement that said it was recently updated. Thanks, Dana Edgell edgell at uwmfe.neep.wisc.edu - --------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 09:51:31 +0000 From: "Lee Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Re: FAQ's and Better Brewing Btalk says: > You didn't menition Coriander in your FAQ. I thought that was a given. Man! Whooda thunk it? :) Chuck, how's your Corriander Octoberfest going? :} <ducking and running for cover> Nah, no holiday burrnout, just dumbsh*t burnout. Not anyone in particular. Anyone brew over the last week? -Lee Bussy | The Homebrew Television Workshop Presents: | leeb at southwind.net | The 4 Basic Foodgroups... Salt, Fat, Beer & Women | Wichita, Kansas | A Special Documentary on Proper Diet. This Week | Super Brewer! | On your local PBS Station. Check local listings. | Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 94 09:20:50 EST From: mike.snyder at ccmail.GSFC.NASA.GOV Subject: Ale-Champagne Yeast Question/Non-alc brew? I have a question regarding the below post from a previous HB Digest: =====================================================================| >On a related note: a few months back on RCB someone posted a raving review >of a >barley wine they had made using ale yeast and then pitching champagne yeast >after >the first racking. That is another yeast combination which may be worth >exploring. If >anyone has any experience out there please speak up... Well, I did this last year, out of necessity, not design. I had a barley wine that wasn't finishing, so I finally broke down and pitched a wine/champagne yeast (can't remember). It helped it along to completion and the bwine is doing fine. BTW, I don't feel this is necessary if you pitch a sufficiently large yeast population and aerate well - the ale yeast should do fine. ==================================================================> OK, the question is if you first use the ale yeast, then pitch the champagin yeast, do you aerate the brew once again, or simply pitch the champagin yeast and wait? I thought when pitching the yeast (any kind) the more O2, the better fermentation. If you aerate the brew well after the ale yeast has been completed, will that not cause off flavors (I believe wet cardboard-like taste) to the finished beer. Another question: I am currently doing two 4 gallon batches of cider each have 2lbs brown sugar and 2 lbs honey in with the fresh unpreserved cider. With one batch, I pitched Red Star dry (rehydrated) champagin yeast. The other batch I crushed (5) campden tablets waited two days and pitched rehydrated EDME dry ale yeast. Both batches have been fermenting vigrously for over 1 week now (O.G.= 1.080). I was told by the guy that runs my local HB store that if you wait for the ale yeast to ferment out, then add champaign yeast, it would yield a sweeter cider than the batch with only champagin yeast for the entire ferment. Does anyone know if this IS true? I *thought* that the sweetness/dryness of the beverage had to do with the FINAL gravities??? (i.e. below 1.000=very dry & 1.010 and above sweeter.??) Can any seasoned HBDers give insight? Final Question (non-related): Awhile back there was a discussion of how to make non-alcoholoc brew brew. I was wondering if this would be a viable option: Cook up the wort as you would normally for your favorite batch, then simply cool and force carbonate with CO2/kegging system. I believe earlier issues discussed this as a beverage called Malta? Anyway, would this not taste like the normally fermented beer? Or does the yeast introduce more complexity/completeness? My guess it that it may, but I figured while I'm typing this up I might as well ask? Thanks, Mike Snyder | So many beers, Systems Engineer | So little time... Loral Aerosys | Mike.Snyder at ccmail.gsfc.nasa.gov | -An original quote Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 94 11:02:58 -0500 From: dburns at msi.com Subject: Re: Propane Cookers Just a data-point. I use a propane cooker in the garage with the door partially open. Advantages: - wife not underfoot - wife not complaining, as much - easier cleanup (i.e. none ;) - easier to deal with immersion chiller/hose etc... - closer to supplies, kept in adjacent basement I can't imagine going back to the kitchen now. In fact, I think the kitchen is only for novice brewers first couple batches. I'm barely more than a novice myself. From the description, I can't even imagine all-grain brewing happening in a kitchen. Oops, I'm forgetting about single people here I suppose... I still need to put a hose fitting in the basement for even easier chiller operation, with dedicated hoses. A water supply would come in handy for other things as well. A second hand fridge in the basement is on the list. Also, I'd like to replace our dishwasher upstairs before it's completely dead (it leaks a bit dear, and those door seals are hard to find) and install it in the 'brewery' for bottles etc etc... what a great hobby we have! dana dburns at msi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 94 11:29:23 EST From: Robert.Fike at ccmail.GSFC.NASA.GOV Subject: RE| Flat beer Kathy, Don't worry about your flat beer. From what you wrote, it sounds like it only had 1 week of aging in the bottle. Your 40 degree basement would inhibit aging in the bottle. I'm having the same problem with my garage. Bring what you have back upstairs, wait a few weeks and then enjoy. I don't expect any "damage" done to what you have now. Rob Robert.Fike at ccmail.gsfc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 16:23:00 GMT From: jeff.guillet at lcabin.com (Jeff Guillet) Subject: Buds in a name? I read the following article in the paper. Thought it might interest some of you. _WHICH_BUD'S_FOR_YOU?_ Prague, Czech Republic - A moratorium on the legal dispute over the Budweiser beer name between Anheuser-Busch of the United States and Czech brewer Budvar will not be renewed. The 1990 moratorium expired Sept.30. It effectively blocked Busch's Budweiser brand from being sold in big European markets like Germany, Austria, and Spain. Budejovicky Budvar n.p. general director Jiri Bocek said Tuesday the moratorium affecting legal disputes in 16 countries would not be maintained as it had become redundant. But Bocek said the moratorium's demise would not hinder Busch negotiating to buy into the Czech brewer. (Chicago Sun-Times) -=Jeff=- Internet: jeff.guillet at lcabin.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 08:33:44 -0800 From: Richard Buckberg <buck at well.sf.ca.us> Subject: Timing of Pitching and Racking I was interested to read in Miller's book that he often waits hours after the wort cools before he pitches his yeast, to allow trub to settle. He also then seems to suggest racking to secondary within 12-24 hours after that, then allowing the beer to fully ferment. This is counter to what I understand most homebrewers do. That is, most of us pitch as soon as the wort is cool, and rack to secondary in several days, after the krausen lowers. What is the collective wisdom of the digest on this matter? FWIW, I brew all-grain, in 5 or 10 gallon batches, and usually use whole hop flowers. I add that info because that seems to have an effect on the rate and amount of trub. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 12:57:44 -0500 (EST) From: "David Foulk" <dfoulk at gsvms2.cc.gasou.edu> Subject: Getting started I understand that my request is likely a nuisance to veteran brewers but here goes: I want to get started brewing at home but need starter equipment and information. This would be less of a problem except that I live in rural Georgia. Savannah GA is the nearest semi-large city. Where can I find information about availability of equipment in Savannah or mail order from anywhere? Please E-Mail any information you can share with me. In the mean time I will continue to read the list and learn what I can. Thanks for the help. David Foulk Professor Georgia Southern University Department of Health Science Tele (912) 681-5266 E-Mail dfoulk at GSVMS2.cc.GaSou.edu FAX (912) 681-0721 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 13:42:01 -0600 From: jcollin2 at students.wisc.edu (Jeffrey M. Collins) Subject: first time Howdy! I'm new to homebrewing and I'm five days into my first batch. First off I'd like to say that I really enjoyed Lee Bussy's post on Dec. 26. It made me feel a lot better about my technique. There are a few little things that aren't really talked about in the books that I was wondering about. Probably not important, but they can get one worrying when one probably should be relaxing. First, how long does it usually take to cool wort to below 80 degrees F? I've heard about using wort coolers, but I'd rather go "au naturale." My first batch took 6 and a half hours to cool. Is this normal, and what are the chances of contamination when I'm lifting up the lid on my fermentor every hour to check the temp? Second, I'm supposed to let the stuff brew for 7 to 10 days. I'm on day 5, just returned from the in-laws after four glorious fun-filled days of family activities, and there seems to be no gaseous activity whatsoever. Is it ready to bottle, or should I wait a few more days? Third, The folks at the brew shop said that the hydrometer (?) is completely optional, but everyone seems to be using 'em. Should I really get one? Fourth, thanks for your patience, and wish my Sequoia Stout luck. Go raibh maith agat! Jeffrey M. Collins jcollin2 at students.wisc.edu Tri rudai faoin ol: e ol, e iompair, agus e ioc. Three things about the drink; to drink it, to hold it, to pay for it. -- Old Irish Saying Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 15:45:00 -0500 (EST) From: "nancy e. renner" <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Yeast 1187, propane cooker, flat beer, low S.G. (From *Jeff* Renner) Dan McConnell gave me a large NCYC 1187 starter from his previous ferment and has suggested that I comment on my results. I brewed a dark bitter at 1.043 and diluted it to 1.039. The grain bill was 6# Baird Pale, 1# (lots!) Baird 50^L crystal, 4 oz. wheat malt, 3 oz. special B, for a total of 7-1/2#, calculated color of 19^L (a little too dark for competition bitter). This was my first use of Special B. I had hoped it would be a little more mellow than choc., but it really doesn't seem to have been. Next time I would use no more than 2 oz. But actually, I like the beer. I used 250 ml. *very* thick yeast slurry. I fermented at ambient 64^F and had 3" kraeusen at 5 hrs. and blowoff at 15 hr. It finished in three days and cleared soon after. With OG 1.039, it finished at 1.010. Despite the high amount of crystal, it finished pretty dry, perhaps because of the 64^C mash temp., but also the high pitching rate. It has a dry flavor too from the Special B and the mid-20's (target) IBU hopping. Too dry and bitter for a brown or mild, too dark for a bitter, but good enough for 10 pitchers to disappear at our church Christmas Eve potluck! As far as George Fix's suggestion of a woodiness, this certainly could be present but it is pretty much obscured by Spec. B. I repitched this into a all pale ale malt barley wine at 1.078 that is still ticking over at 2-1/2 weeks. Most of the yeast has settled out, and it is so flocculent that it sticks to the sides of the carboy. I'll report later on how this turns out. *** Several folks have asked about propane cookers, so here is my contribution. I don't know why I waited so long. It saves the stove and the kitchen in general, is fast, gives a better boil, and boilovers are a lot easier to clean up from the garage floor. I got a multi-jet burner rather than the blowtorch type. It gives plenty of heat (140,000 BTU wide open), and is more diffuse and easier to control with the needle valve supplied. Mike O'Brien, owner of Pico Brewing Systems, did a parallel run of this type and with a jet-type, and used less than half the fuel, so they are more efficient. Of course, this means the garage may be colder! I used about four lbs. propane to boil 12 gallons of brewing water and then reduce 9+ gallons of wort to 7-1/2 with a 1-1/2 hour boil. They do cost about $20 more than the jet burner. *** Kathy Same has flat beer which she conditioned after priming for a week at 65^ before putting it in the cellar at 40^ (cold cellar!). Bring it back upstairs, Kathy! A couple of more weeks, and it'll do fine. *** Eric Addkison followed a recipe exactly and got a SG of 1.030 rather than 1.040-45 which he expected. Assuming this is an extract recipe and not the result of inefficient mashing, you probably just had layering of your wort, and you took a sample of the more dilute portion. It happens all the time. If it really is the result of poor mash and low SG, then order/buy some malt extract and add it later, even after the ferment is over. It'll start up again. But I'll bet there is nothing to worry about. Malt extracts are pretty consistent, and you should probably RDWHAHB. Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 15:50:21 -0500 From: Ginniff at aol.com Subject: Alewife In our family the non-brewers have taken to calling themselves alewives. The name is borrowed from the fish and worn as a badge of honor by those who suffer the indignity of sticky kitchen floors and 'malt-o-meal aroma.' A definition follows: Alewife, n., 1. A fish, *alosa pseudoharengus*, closely related to the herring. 2. A spouse of a homebrewer, *matrimonius harangus*, closely related to the golf widow, marked by indifference to the finer points of brewing, sometimes turning to impatience and scorn. An alewife may be male or female. What makes an alewife is not wifeness but studied ignorance of the brewing process.They pride themselves on not knowing a wort from a hop pellet and like to gather together in small groups and roll their eyes. Ciaovederci, Delores Thompson (GINNIFF at AOL.COM) Peter Thompson (PTHOMPSO at COE.EDU) Philip Thompson (PDTHOMPS at MAGNUS.ACS.OHIO-STATE.EDU) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 94 14:17:34 MST From: jeff at neocad.com (Jeff Stampes) Subject: Rhino Chaser I have long been a fan of Rhino Chaser Amber ale...it was one of my discoveries I was most fond of introducing friends to. A quick story about it: (Really, I'll get to the hbd content soon) I used to buy it at liquor Mart in Boulder for $4.99/six-pack. I was amazed and in heaven! After we had been buying it by the case for a fer months, they pulled the Rhino Chaser truck into the parking lot for a week or so, and put it on "SPECIAL!" at $5.29/six. After the sale, there I was buying the same beer for $5.99 or more... ah well! Anyway, I just bought one of their Holidsay Ales...and I should have known better than to buy a beer in a clear bottle! It was in a nice frosted one last year and tasted wonderful...this one I opened and my kitchen smelled like snunk...I ended up dumping the whole damn thing. :( Moral: If you don't believe dark beers skunk, boy do I have a surprise! Jeff Stampes Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 14:25:55 -0800 (PST) From: John Farver <bruticus at pnw.net> Subject: hops Ive got some more info on the new hop Columbus, it's bred and selected from the Hop Union USA breeding program in Yakima. The cone structure is medium to large tight, rounded cone. Plentiful, and pale to mid yellow lupulin. AA% is 14-16 and BA% is 4.5-5.5, co-humulone is 30 to 35% of alpha acids, storagability is still under evaluation. Total oil is 1.5-2.0%v/w, myrcene is 25-45% of whole oil. Ive used this hop and found it be a very flowery hop with good but not overpowering bitterness. Also there is the Centennial-type hop, a blend designed as a temporary substitute for Centennial, from Hop Union. AA% is 10-12, BA% is 4.5-5.5, the balance of components in this hop has been carefully selected to approximate- as close as possible the important resin and oil characteristics of the Centennial variety. Again I personally found this to be abut as close as you can get to the real thing, definately worth a try even on its own. Get your local supplier to get some. Bye for now-John Farver I have no affiliation with Hop Union excpt as friend and very satisfied customer. This info comes courtesy of Ralph Olson at HU USA. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 94 14:38:56 EST From: mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com Subject: Grain mill This Christmas, I bought my wife a slicer/shredder for her big KitchenAid mixer. While at the kitchen supply store, I noticed that KitchenAid also sells a grain mill attachment for their mixers. Unfortunately, the store was out, so I couldn't open the box and read all about it. Does anyone have any experience with this type of mill? Is it adjustable? Does it do a nice crush, etc. Going solely from the picture in the brochure, it looks like a Corona type of mill rather than a roller mill. Any input would be appreciated. Please post to this group or send an e-mail to mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com. Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 94 17:53:09 EST From: jwc at med.unc.edu (John W. Carpenter) Subject: Jail House Brew In hbd1616 Mark Witherspoon told us about Grape Nuts Beer. I thought I would share a recipe used by many convicts, so I'm told. Jail House Brew: Juice, any kind bread sock Put bread in sock, and then sock in juice. Ferment, strain, drink. John Carpenter Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 19:04:35 -0500 From: TAyres at aol.com Subject: BJCP EXAM, 1/28, AND GMHC, 4/8 Just a word to let interested parties know that I am offering the BJCP Exam in Burlington, Vermont, on Saturday, January 28. Also that the fourth annual Green Mountain Homebrew Competition is scheduled for the Magic Hat Brewery in Burlington on Saturday, April 8. AHA/HWBTA sanctioned, blah, blah, blah. E-Mail me for details. Tom Ayres TAyres at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 1994 20:21:00 -0500 (EST) From: GARY SINK 206-553-4687 <SINK.GARY at epamail.epa.gov> Subject: Cry for help, flat beer, etc Well, the Digest is a bit quiet during the holidays, so I'll take a stab at providing some suggestions for a few folks. I don't have a fancy editor (I don't even have a decnt one) so I won't quote others verbatim. Collin Ames has a batch that is down to 1.018 after three weeks. IMHO, as long as your still steadily going down, you're safe enough just racking to a secondary (I wouldn't leave it in the primary any longer). I think bottling this early with or without added sugar is a bit risky since you don't have much control over the carbonation level (although I'm sure someone out there could probably calculate that for you):-) Kathy Same asked about the carbonation level of her Holiday Ale. I suggest you bring it out of the basement. 40 degrees is considered lager temp and is much to cold for your Ale yeast. You're should be doing the entire fermentation in the 65 degree range. I usually open a bottle a week to test how my batches are doing, by week four I get tired of waiting for incremental improvements. Eric Pendergrass has a low SG. Didi you add the yeast already? If not, you can bring your wort to a boil again to evaporate some of the liquid. You'll probably get 4 gallons of slightly darker brew). Wait, I just had an idea! Maybe you don't have time to mailorder malt, but you can probably find some honey and convert your recipe to a Honey Nut Brown Ale (makes me want to eat cereal). That's all from me. Gary Sink sink.gary at epamail.epa.gov Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1617, 12/29/94