HOMEBREW Digest #1625 Sat 07 January 1995
Digest #1624
Digest #1626
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Temporary & permanent hardness (David Draper)
Mashing/sparging in a Gott cooler ("Rick Gontarek, Ph.D.")
pH 4.01 buffer solution (STROUD)
Sourness from dark grains? (Allan Rubinoff)
light exposure (James Manfull)
Beer Software (Greg Holton)
Water Analysis (re-try) ("KEVIN FONS Q/T BPR X7814)
brewing basics (Robert Schwartz)
U_brews (Jim Busch)
RE:Beer Software for Windows (Chris Cooper)
re: Microwave (Larry Merkel)
Quick Sanke questions (Stuart Galt)
re: Using honey (Joe Pearl)
Keg pressure to temperature. (Aaron Shaw)
infusion and decoction mashing (Chuck E. Mryglot)
Bluebonnet info needed ("Allen L. Ford")
Soft water/head retention (VIALEGGIO)
Coyote (Mark Bellefeuille)
Second Annual AHA Contest in San Diego!!! ("Simpson, Mark RB-4378")
MAKE OR BUY ("rick_ l")
Extraction from rice? (Gary Zipfel)
Killer Microwave (THE SHECKONATOR)
Hallertauer hops w/ > 5% AA (Jim Grady)
water treatment (Tom Fitzpatrick)
Grain Brewing (GRMarkel)
Keg Crimes (Reprise) (WIRESULTS)
Re: Brewing Software (PatrickM50)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 22:54:22 +1100 (EST)
From: David Draper <David.Draper at mq.edu.au>
Subject: Temporary & permanent hardness
Dear Friends, in #1624 Al K. commented on what constitutes temporary and
permanent hardness, and averred that permanent hardness has more to do
with Ca and Mg than whether things are carbonates or sulphates. Well, yes
and no. All I know is that alkaline-earth bicarbonates will form
(carbonate) precipitates upon boiling and sulphates will not. So if your
analysis shows, for example, the bulk of your Ca as carbonate, you will
eliminate that proportion by preboiling and racking off the residue. If
the bulk of the Ca is as sulphate, you're stuck with it unless you resort
to much more involved procedures. So although I do not dispute Al's
remarks about the role of Mg and Ca in ale brewing waters, I think it
should be pointed out that carbonates are removable and sulphates ain't.
Do any of you brew historians know when and/or by whom the terms
"temporary" and "permanent" were first applied? Is there a thesis lurking
in this topic? :-}
Cheers, and happy new year everyone, Dave in Sydney
- --
"Life's a bitch, but at least there's homebrew" ---Norm Pyle
******************************************************************************
David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109
Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper at mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428
....I'm not from here, I just live here....
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 7:43:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "Rick Gontarek, Ph.D." <GONTAREK at FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV>
Subject: Mashing/sparging in a Gott cooler
Hello Everyone! I was very pleased that Santa brought me a 10 gallon
Gott cooler for Xmas, and I even got a Phil's Phalse bottom to go with it.
Last Monday I used the system for the first time, and now I have a few
questions for the collective brew wisdom of my fellow brewthren.
I made a brown ale using about 8.5 lbs of pale malt, about 1 lb
of dark crystal, and a little bit o' chocolate malt. I did a one step
infusion using the cooler as a mash tun. I was pleased that the temp
held extremely steady. I mashed for one hour, and iodine test revealed
conversion.
I then sprinkled 75degC water on top, and opened the outflow tube.
I sparged with a total of about 4 gallons, and it took me about 25 minutes
or so. The sparge trickled to a near stop, then I tilted the cooler to get
a little bit more out. I then boiled, added hops, etc, and used my new
wort chiller to chill the wort to yeast pitching temp (I loved the wort
chiller very much!!). To my surprise (and disappointed), after measuring the
o.g., I calculated a rather low extraction rate (about 22pts/lb/gallon).
Boy, was I bummed!! I got at least 26 with my uninsulated two-buckets
tun system, and the reason I wanted a cooler was so that I could improve
my efficiency. What was I doing wrong? Should I have mashed longer
(like for two hours)? Did I sparge too quickly? I would appreciate
any advice from experienced users of the Gott-tun system. BTW, the grain
was crushed with a Phil Mill.
I am not attempting to hit the Dave Miller 33 pt/lb/gallon
efficiency, but I'd like to get a little more sugar out of my grain!
I'd appreciate all advice (private email is fine, unless it's of general
interest).
Thanks so much for the help. You have all helped me tremendously
over the last few years.
Rick Gontarek
Owner/Brewmaster of the Major Groove Picobrewery
Baltimore, MD
gontarek at fcrfv1.ncifcrf.gov
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 1995 08:40:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: STROUD%GAIA at cliffy.polaroid.com
Subject: pH 4.01 buffer solution
Christoper Sack is correct, I dropped a decimal point in my posting.
A pH 4.01 buffer solution is a 0.05M solution of KHP (potassium hydrogen
phthalate). I had calculated that as 10.21g/liter of solution which does
indeed mean that 500g of KHP will yield ~50 l of 4.01 buffer solution.
Steve Stroud
homebrewer and also an organic chemist
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 95 08:57:57 EST
From: Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff at BBN.COM>
Subject: Sourness from dark grains?
In HBD #1624, Al Korzonas (korz at iepubj.att.com) writes:
>. . . I believe that
>the flavour effect of carbonates in beer is to reduce the sourness that
>can occur with dark malts.
I brew with extracts and specialty grains, and I have never paid much
attention to water chemistry. Based on what Al says here, I wonder if I
need to be more concerned. I have made a couple of stouts that had an
extremely unpleasant sourness. In both cases, I steeped a fair amount
of roasted barley before adding the extract. Could the sourness of
these batches be caused by steeping the roasted barley in untreated
water? I live near Boston, and while I don't know the carbonate content
of the water, I suspect it is low, as our water is extremely soft.
Assuming this is the problem, I suppose that before I steep the roasted
barley, I should add calcium carbonate (chalk, right?) to the water.
Any ideas how much?
Thanks,
Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff at bbn.com>
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 09:26:18 -0500
From: jxm64 at psu.edu (James Manfull)
Subject: light exposure
Thanks to all who responded to my lament regarding HSA.
There is, I suddenly remember, another possible cause of this nasty beer.
I have just started using an unplugged refrigerator to keep the temp
constant. In order to get it up around 65 degrees I ran in a 15 watt
bulb. For the first four days I left the carboy uncovered, exposed to this
light. After I realized my error I covered it with a towel. Could a 15
watt bulb damage the beer? As I said earlier, when I discribe the taste as
wet cardboard, that is only a shot in the dark. The flavor is off, though
not sour, astringent, or cidery. There is no fill-line ring in the
bottles. That's the best diagnosis I can make.
Thanks in advance for any follow up comments.
James Manfull
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 09:44:23 -0500 (EST)
From: greg at kgn.ibm.com (Greg Holton)
Subject: Beer Software
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 5 Jan 95 09:26:41 EST
> From: ben at fcmc.com (Ben Piela)
> Subject: Beer Software for Windows
>
> Hello all fellow homebrewers,
>
> In the issue of Zymurgy magazine featuring Special Ingredients and
> Indigenous Beer, I noticed three advertisements for Beer software for
> Windows. Since I have just purchased a PC and I am still in that
> purchasing mood, I was wondering if anyone has had any experience
> with any of the packages and maybe wouldn't mind ellaborating on those
> experiences either to the digest or to my personal email. The packages
> are
> 1) Brew Master from Abita Software in CA for $39+$3P&H
> 2) Brewer's Calculator from Regent Software in CA for $39+$3P&H
> 3) Brew Wizard from ANTROM Associates in MD for $59.00+FREE P&H
>
> All three products of features such as Recipe Formulation for many styles
> of brewing, Inventory Databases, Batch Logging, and "Much More!" Any and
> all info will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you very much,
>
>
> Ben Piela
> ben at fcmc.com
>
Before you spend your money, try the SUDS program from sierra.stanford.edu.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 1995 08:45:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: "KEVIN FONS Q/T BPR X7814 <KFONS at china.qgraph.com>" <KFONS at china.qgraph.com>
Subject: Water Analysis (re-try)
Sorry for the previous jumbled post, here's a retry.
Hi,=20
Here is the water analysis information for Milwaukee, WI. Where =
do I
start? I brew ales for the most part (everything from Weiss to Stout=
),
however, I will be brewing Lagers soon. My beer is mainly extract wi=
th some
grain added. I haven't been able to locate Millers book yet, so any =
help would
be appreciated.=20
Thank You,
Kevin Fons <KFONS at QGRAPH.COM>
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------=
- ---
HOWARD AVENUE PURIFICATION PLANT (Milwaukee Wisconsin)
1993 TYPICAL SANITARY CHEMICAL ANALYSES IN MILLIGRAMS PER LITER
Water is purified using Chlorine Gas
Determination
Physical
Color Units: 1
pH: 7.50
Residue 103 - 105 C, Filterable: 0
Residue 103=97105 C, Nonfilterable: 160
Residue 103 - 105 C, Total: 160
Specific Conductance, micromhos/cm: 250
Taste Units Temperature deg F: N=20
Temperature deg F: 50
Threshold Odor Units Turbidity N.T.U: 2
Turbidity: 0.1
Chemical
Alkalinity, Total*: 107
Aluminum: 0.03
Carbon Dioxide (Free): 8.1
Chlorides: 16.0
Chlorine Residual, Total: 0.92
Copper: 0.01
Fluoride: 1.10
Hardness, Calcium*: 96
Hardness, Magnesium*: 47
Hardness, Total*: 143
Iron: 0.04
Langelier Saturation Index: -0.49
Manganese: 0.01
Nitrogen, Ammonia: 0.20
Nitrogen, Nitrate: 0.47
Nitrogen, Nitrite: 0.001
Nitrogen, Organic: 0.26
Oxygen, Dissolved: 11.0
Soluble Phosphate as P: 0.01
Silica (SiO2): 1.91
Sodium: 7.0
Sulfate: 26.2
Sulfide: ---
Total Phosphorus as P: 0.02
Zinc: 0.03
*As Calcium Carbonate=20
(+) Tendency to Form a Deposit=20
(-) Tendency to Corrode
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 95 09:55:12 -0500
From: ras at altair.com (Robert Schwartz)
Subject: brewing basics
I am a beginning homebrewer that has purchased Papazian's book and brewed
two batches of ale. I would appreciate any information on the following
topics:
-- errors in The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing
-- brewing your first batch
-- yeast culturing / liquid yeast
-- brewing wheat beer in the Hefe Weizen style
Thanks,
Bob Schwartz
ras at altair.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 10:07:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: U_brews
Paul writes:
<In regards to U Brews:
<There will be a U Brew opening in Chicago in late January. Apparently
<it will be located in one of the more "upscale" neighborhoods in Chicago
<(Lincoln Park) and will be brewing 15 gal batches starting at $85 or so.
<No affiliation.... Im not even sure I'll be a customer...
Is it just me, or is this amazing to others too? In the DC/Baltimore
area I can buy a 1/2BBl keg of high quality lager beer or a tasty
6% ale for $80 or so. That people will pay more for the same *and*
perform work to boot is really something. Sure, I can see if one wants
to learn how to use fancy equipment, or a pub wants to experiment with
a new recipe this makes sense, but if your a homebrewer, why not just go
do it yourself? And if they are extract based, go figure.
Jim Busch
busch at mews.gsfc.nasa.gov
"DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER!"
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 10:04:24 -0500
From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com>
Subject: RE:Beer Software for Windows
Ben Piela recently asked about brewing software for a PC,
I have been using the SUDSW ver 2.2 available from the
HBD archive site sierra.stanford.edu for several weeks
and I am pleased with it.
Ben this software is available as shareware in a DOS and a
Windows version. If you have FTP capability then
"ftp sierra.stanford.edu"
"cd pub/homebrew/programs/sudsw"
and get the appropriate files for your system.
(If you can't use FTP form you system contact me via E-mail.)
Chris Cooper , Commerce Michigan --> Where ever you go <--
ccooper at a2607.cc.msr.hp.com --> There you are <--
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 95 09:23:02 -0600
From: Larry Merkel <merkel at ibmoto.com>
Subject: re: Microwave
P. Molloy,
Interesting idea...but I have a question. Your last sentence was:
*** WARNING *** Do not cook to long, parts will melt, trust me!
How long is too long? I'd hate to melt a few parts to find out :) Thanks.
Larry Merkel
merkel at ibmoto.com
(Brewing my first batch right now, so I probably won't have much constructive
to say for awhile. I'll just lurk for now).
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 07:35:43 -0800 (PST)
From: sag at atreides.ca.boeing.com (Stuart Galt)
Subject: Quick Sanke questions
Hello,
I have acquired some sankey kegs from BCI (800-284-9410 include disclaimer
about only being a customer and having no financial interest ....) and am
actually getting around to using them...
How can one scrub/clean any residue out of the keg? With a soda keg you just
reach in there and scrub, but I can't get my hand in the little hole on a
sankey keg. Is there some cleaning solution that I should be using? and if
so where does one acquire it?
In a related note: How often and how does one go about cleaning the beer lines
that go from the keg to the tap? Also, sources would be apreciated too.
Responding via e-mail would probably be best. I can summarize if there is
enough interest.
Thank you for your time.
stuart galt <sag at atreides.ca.boeing.com> | #include <standard/disclaim.h>
boeing computer services seattle washington | I don't know what they say,
(206) 544-0991 or home (206) 361-0190 | they don't know what I say...
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 95 10:52:14 -0500
From: Joe Pearl <joep at informix.com>
Subject: re: Using honey
Mike> Date: Thu, 05 Jan 1995 09:03:22 -0500 From:
Mike> M_MACADAMS at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US
Mike> Hello,
Mike> I am considering using honey in an upcoming brew and was
Mike> wondering how much to use and when to use it. What I would like
Mike> is to add a little honey flavor to a lager, I'm not really
Mike> interested in increased alcohol content. Should I add the honey
Mike> instead of priming sugar or is it best to add it to the wort? If
Mike> I add it instead of priming sugar, should I make and boil a
Mike> honey-water mixture before adding it to the beer to avoid
Mike> contamination?
Mike> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I recently used Papazian's "Vagabond Gingered Ale" (TNCJOHB) recipe, but
modified it with honey. I used about 5 oz. ginger at the beginning of
the boil and added ~ 1.5 pounds of honey with 10 minutes left to the
boil. Since I wanted some of the honey aroma, I added it later in the
boil. I should have added it with about 5 min. to go. It boosted the
OG and, consequently, the alcohol, like I wanted. I really can't help
with the priming issue, since I've only used sugar. I would think,
tho', that you'd have to boil it first to avoid contamination.
btw, the brew turned out *great*! It's got a strong ginger aroma and a
moderate ginger flavor. I would have liked a stronger honey aroma. The
OG was 1.062, FG 1.018. Carbonation was a little weak, tho' I'm not
sure why.
Mike> Thanks, Mike
joe.
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
Joe Pearl
Informix Software Voice: 813-971-0010
8675 Hidden River Parkway Fax: 813-632-9582
Tampa, FL 33637 Email: joep at informix.com
PGP'd email preferred - for key: send me email w/subject "send me pgp key"
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 11:21:49 -0500
From: ar568 at freenet.carleton.ca (Aaron Shaw)
Subject: Keg pressure to temperature.
Dear Fellow Keggers,
I seem to have lost this information. Can anyone tell me
the corresponding pressure for various temperatures needed to
carbonate my beer. Any information will be greatly appreciated.
- --
"Come my lad, and drink some beer!"
Aaron Shaw
Ottawa, Canada
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 95 11:31:55 EST
From: cem at cadre.com (Chuck E. Mryglot)
Subject: infusion and decoction mashing
Hi ,
As an infusion masher I've often toyed with the idea of doing a decoction
mash, but the additional time required has always turned me off.
Now, having just read 'Bock", I'm all enthused about decoction mashing
and thinking this may be the way to achieve that special German flavor that
seems to alude me.
I'd like to hear from anyone who mashes both ways...in particular to the
differences in flavor profile. eg, If brewing the same recipe with infusion
and then with decoction mash, how different might the flavor profile be....
is it apt to be subtle or will it jump out at me.
Thanks for any help/advice/insight...etc...
ChuckM
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 10:58:07 -0600 (CST)
From: "Allen L. Ford" <allen at darwin.sfbr.org>
Subject: Bluebonnet info needed
Will someone in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area please contact me concerning the
Bluebonnet Brew-Off? TIA.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Allen L. Ford <allen at darwin.sfbr.org> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-= Southwest Foundation for Biomedical Research San Antonio, Texas =-=-=
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 1995 12:07:30 -0500 (EST)
From: VIALEGGIO at ccmail.sunysb.edu
Subject: Soft water/head retention
State University of New York at Stony Brook
Stony Brook, NY 11794-5475
Victor Ialeggio
Music
516 632-7239
06-Jan-1995 11:50am EST
FROM: VIALEGGIO
TO: Remote Addressee ( _homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com )
Subject: Soft water/head retention
Anyone have any advice concerning head retention
being adversely affected by soft water? I have a
a bitter made with Wyeast ESB (pale, crystal, biscuit,
carapils, a little roast) to which I forgot
to add a little gypsum in the mash--water in eastern Long
Island, NY is incredibly soft/sweet. Beer is nicely carbonated
but does not raise much of a head at all--just a small necklace
of rather thin-looking bubbles.
I should add this is the first batch
in quite a time which wasn't Belgian or Scotch,
brewed without an addition of some kind of sugar in the boil,
so maybe my appreciation of it is being a little provincial in
its memory.
The Wyeast ESB, by the way, fermented in a much more
leisurely fashion, compared to other batches using yeast
cultured from Fullers ESB).
Thanks. Victor
vialeggio at ccmail.sunysb.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 10:22:56 -0700
From: Mark Bellefeuille <mcb at mcdpxs.phx.mcd.mot.com>
Subject: Coyote
I exchanged email with the 'Wyllie Coyote' before Christmas (The last answer I
recieved was on Dec 17th). I don't know if he'll be participating any time
soon. It seems he has met the real enemy (no, no, no, I'm not referring to his
recent marriage!) *Fulltime Employment*! He thought he would be losing his
internet access (or his employer is currently driving him hard enough that he
doesn't have time to offer his wit and wisdom for our enjoyment). I was hoping
that he'd have time to 'sign-off' if he really is gone. Of course he might
have just retreated to 'lurker' status. (And of course if he has I appologize
for answering for him.)
mark
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark C. Bellefeuille mcb at phx.mcd.mot.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 95 10:27:00 PST
From: "Simpson, Mark RB-4378" <Simpson at po2.rb.unisys.com>
Subject: Second Annual AHA Contest in San Diego!!!
Hey BrewGuys/Gals!!!
It s BREW CONTEST Time in Sunny San Diego and this year s contest should
prove to be the best one ever!!! Here's the info on the second annual
"America's Finest City Homebrew Contest", scheduled for March 11, 1995!!!
The entry window is February 27th through March 8th.
1) The entry fee is $6.00 for the first entry and $4.00 for the remaining
entries. You can enter only one brew per sub-category but you can enter as
many classes as you wish.
2) Send 2 (two) bottles per entry as we are also having a "Best Of Show"
contest.
3) Please follow the AHA guidelines for entering and packing the beers to
be judged, such as bottle size (10-14oz) and color (brown/green) and please
rubber-band (no tape) the labels to the bottles.
4) Indicate (by arrow or other obvious sign) which side is "up" so we may
store the packages properly.
5) Mail all entries to: Ted Newcomb
9368 Cabot Drive
San Diego, CA 92126
Again, entries will only be received between February 27th through March
8th.
All recognized AHA beverage styles will be judged. We plan to send an entry
packet to anyone who plans to enter the contest. I have an electronic copy
of the AHA contest guidelines or you can get them from the most recent
Zymurgy. Contact either Ted Newcomb (619) 552-8293, Skip Virgilio: (619)
566-7061 or Mark Simpson: (619) 578-2627 or. I can be e-mailed at:
simpson at rb.unisys.com.
So, GET BREWING NOW!!!
Cheers!
Mark Simpson; QUAFF Member at Large in San Diego
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 12:09:41 +0000
From: "rick_ l" <rick_l at nr.infi.net>
Subject: MAKE OR BUY
I am crunching some numbers for a friend who dreams of owning a
microbrewery. No question about the quality of his all grain brew.
He has received many complements and a few awards. Unfortunately,
the price of commercial all grain brewery is out of reach at this time.
Contract brew looks like a possibility. Can anybody estimate a cost
for contract brewed and bottled beer. What type of volume would be
required to start.?
I would expect to be able to buy good beer for less than what it would
cost me to brew it in 7 to 10 Bbl. batches. Can someone describe the
economics of brewing and bottling in house compared to buying a
contract brew.
Most products on the supermarket shelf sell less than 1 case per week.
Anybody got an estimate for the weekly case sales of a popular 22 oz.
microbrew in a large supermarket?
Rick Langhorne
rick_l at nr.infi.net
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Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 13:20:57 -0600 (CST)
From: zipfel at cs.wisc.edu (Gary Zipfel)
Subject: Extraction from rice?
The local brewery here in Madison WI (Capitol Brewery) has recently put
out a beer called "Wild Rice." I'm not particularly fond of the beer
myself, but a few of my friends like it, and I think it would be a good
exercise to try to duplicate it.
My question for the HBDer's is how does one go about extracting the sugars
from rice? I've looked through both of my books (Papazian and Miller) and
neither seem to mention how to treat rice as a grain.
I know this seems sinful, but I'd like to learn how to extract from rice,
and corn just for the sake of increasing my knowledge base in the brewing
area.
Anybody know a good source for this info, or have a good method on line?
- --
Zip (zipfel at cs.wisc.edu) Brewer of Madison's finest
Home: 833-0957 ------------- Office: 262-5340
/ More Soupy \
< HANK BRAU >
\ Less Snakey /
-------------
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Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 15:51:11 -0500 (EST)
From: THE SHECKONATOR <BSHECK at nimue.hood.edu>
Subject: Killer Microwave
This is directed to P. Molloy Kalamazoo MI. "Newcomer
to the Net" but I'm posting to the Digest because I
think others can benefit from the following, too:
>> I had heard recently that a microwave oven will
>> kill bacteria in womans underpants who have
>> yeast infections....
I specifically remember seeing an article in the
newspaper in 1988 that detailed a doctor's procedure
for sterilizing womens skivvies of the dreaded
scamper-yeast. The procedure mentiones that the
skivvies should be taken from the washing machine,
rolled up, and put into the microwave:
The microwave oven heats by inducing the water
molecules to vibrate at a higher rate, creating
friction which raises their temperature. This creates
steam, BTW, and heat. The heat is what sterilizes. I
could be wrong, but I suspect that _not that many_
microbes are zapped from the microwaves but from the
heat created by the waves juicing up the water.
So to prevent over-heating of your utensils in a
microwave oven, put them in a bowl of water; the heat
of boiling will kill the nasties, but keep the utensil
around 212 degrees F.
I personally soak my gear in bleachwater, and rinse in
boiling or hot water (whatever the item will best
tolerate) as this seems to work for me. I don't feel
that a microwave does the job any better. I could be
wrong.
Metallic objects aren't to good to put in the cavity,
or a dry oven (or what is in the cavity isn't too
microwave-absorbing) could lead to a shorter life for
the magnetron (the thingy that generates the
microwaves).
Hoppy Brewin'
Bob
- --> Nuclear Families _DO_ Glow in the Dark!
BSHECK, ME-SHECK, abendigo!
>>>-------==The Sheckinator==------<<<
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a
frontal lobotomy." -Groucho Marx
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Date: Fri, 6 Jan 95 17:21:35 EST
From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com>
Subject: Hallertauer hops w/ > 5% AA
Norm Pyle says he would be surprised to see any hop with more than 5%
alpha acid with "Hallertau" in the name. Well, I have some Hallertau
Northern Brewer at 7.6% alpha acid. This name means that the hops are
Northern Brewer type hops that were grown in the Hallertau region of
Germany. There is a Hallertau type of hop and that generally is less
than 5% alpha acid as Norm said.
In general, hop names can be rather confusing and I have found Mark
Garetz' book, "Using Hops" very helpful.
- --
Jim Grady
grady at an.hp.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Jan 95 17:05:08 CST
From: fitz at fasicsv.fnal.gov (Tom Fitzpatrick)
Subject: water treatment
Jim writes:
>My understanding is that the number for total hardness is comprised of the
>temporary hardness and permanent hardness. The former is that which is caused
>by the presence of carbonates and can be removed by boiling, whereas permanent
>hardness is due to the presence of sulfate and cannot be removed by boiling.
Al K. responds:
>Not quite. My knowledge of water chemistry is not as strong as I would
>like it to be, but there are some things of which I'm quite sure. Permanent
>hardness is primarily from the calcium and the magnesium in the water.
According to the local water chemist, total hardness is the addition of
temporary and permanent hardness. The temporary hardness (bicarbonate, HCO3)
is comprised of the calcium and magnesium ions in the water and can be boiled
off if enough of these ions are present. Permanent hardness (carbonate, CO3)
is comprised of the chloride and sulfate ions present and cannot be boiled off.
So I think Jim's post is closer to reality.
Another measurement of interest is the total alkinity (CaCO3), measured in ppm
or mg/l. This number gives an indication of the buffering power of your water,
i.e. its ability to resist ph changes from mineral/acid additions. In a recent
post, a brewer was complaining that a specific phosphoric acid addition to his
sparge water did not lower the ph. My guess is that his water has a high total
alkilinity and thus a high buffering capability. The ph of the water has little
bearing on how much acid must be added to reduce sparge water to below ph 6.
example: my water has a ph of 9.4, yet only a tablespoon of 10:1 phosphoric acid
brings it down below 6. Of course the total alkilinity of my water is low, only
60 ppm.
Hope that helps,
cheers,
Tom Fitzpatrick
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Date: Fri, 6 Jan 1995 18:34:36 -0500
From: GRMarkel at aol.com
Subject: Grain Brewing
Since taking up all-grain brewing 1-1/2 yrs ago, I have (thanks to the
contributors to HBD) developed a brewing system which is about as easy as its
going to get doing all grain. Because many of the refinements to my system
was from the HBD, I feel obligated to contribute my system as a starting
point/opinion/guide for anyone thinking of converting to all grain.
This is a three bucket set up to gravity feed with the top bucket a "Bruheat"
which I use to heat water for mashing, sparging and for the boiling of wort.
My "Bruheat" has served me well, a few tips the make this gadget work better
- insulate the outside of the bucket. Any closed cell foam at least 1/2"
thick will do. A backpacking sleeping pad seemed to be a favorite among the
HBD'ers. #2 - it is important to keep the element clean. This sucker does get
hot causing the sugars in the wort to caramalize on the element. This coating
really kills the units heat time. The best way I found to clean it is good
old Brillo pads. I realize this is probably not the recommended cleaning
method, but I've been doing mine this way for 1-1/2 years with no ill
effects.
The 2nd level is a mash/lauder tun. This is a 6 gallon bucket with a spigot,
that's another thing, try and find the brand of spigot used in the "Bruheat".
Those $3.95 bottling spigots just don't hold up to heat. Anyway - the 6
gallon bucket is insulated (see "Bruheat", insulation) and fitted with a
"Zap-Pap" bucket, shorten to about 3". I used the bottom of a 5 gal. soy
sauce bucket peppered with 3/32" dia. holes. I drilled 4 - 1" dia holes in
the 3" sides (to help pull it out) and just let it wedge inside at the bottom
of the 6 gal. bucket.(ala false bottom)
The bottom level is a 5 gallon bucket fitted with a spigot (see spigot note
above) used for collection and transport. (Make sure you have a lid for this
guy)
To mash I heat up about 3 gallons of water to 185 deg. Drain this into the
mash/lauder bucket. This should settle out at about 170 which is the strike
temp. I use for 10-12 lbs. of grain. Dump in the grains, dough in making sure
all the grain is wet, check of temp. Should be about 153-155. Cover and stir
every 15 min. for 1 hour.
Mean while back at the "Bruheat", heat about 4-1/2 gallons of water to 185
for sparging. After 1 hour of mashing top off the mash/lauder tun bucket with
185 deg water. To prevent "channeling" in the grain, drop a dinner plate
(Corelle is my choice) on top of the grain to deflect the sparge water. Crack
the spigot on the mash/launder tun bucket and drain into the bottom bucket.
After collecting the first gallon, recirculate this first gallon back into
the mash/launder bucket. By this time the grains have formed a filter bed, so
do everything possible not to disturb this. The sparging should take about
45-60 min.(Adjust the spigot accordingly). As soon as I accumulated about two
gallons of run off, I dump it into the "Bruheat" and start heating it up to
boiling point.
After collecting all the wort (save any extra to make yeast starters) boil,
hop, etc. as per recipe. After the boil, turn the "Bruheat" off and let the
wort sit for 20-30 min. to let the hot break settle to the bottom. Drain the
"Bruheat" slowly as not to disturb the hot break, into the 5 gal. bucket.
>From here I cover the bucket and move the show the kitchen sink for the
"cooling of the wort" ritual. My chosen cooling system is 20' of copper tube
(3/8" dia.) with tygon tubing from the bucket to coil and from the coil to
carboy. The cooling media is two 3 lbs. blocks of ice in a sink filled with
water and the coil. I regulate the discharge with a hose pinch clamp based on
the exiting temp. of the wort. (forget trying to use the bucket spigot to
regulate flow. You'll spend the next hour standing next to the bucket,
dicking with the knob, thinking "this is it")
That's pretty much it. Any comments, questions, or suggestions for
improvement gladly accepted.
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Date: Fri, 6 Jan 95 18:52:36 -0600
From: WIRESULTS at WINET.psinet.org
Subject: Keg Crimes (Reprise)
Many Moons ago, the thread on Keg ownership was hotly debated with one
Louis Bonham making some good arguments on the side of keeping kegs for
the deposit. I was (potentialy) professionaly curious but with no funds
to consult lawers myself on the subject. Being somewhat resourceful I posed
the debate to one T. Jake Leinenkugel (mostly) owner and Heir of
Leinenkugel's brewery near here in Chippewa Falls, Wi. Jake thought the
arguments very good also and so kicked the debate upstairs (they are now owned
by Miller Brewing Co.) Today I received a letter from one Kristin A Kaplan,
Senoir Counsel at Miller Brewing Company in Milwaukee. She Writes thusly:
"This letter is in response to mail regarding beer keg crimes sent by
Louis L Bonham. According to Mr. Bonham, the entire point of the
inquiry is whether "the transaction [is] a rental of the keg or a
purchase/repurchase contract with a liquidated damages clause?"
Mr. Bonham articulately sets forth a standard hypothetical, based on
UCC 2-403, that depicts a situation where a jewelry store clerk,
either mistakenly or deliberately, sells a watch that was left at the
store for repair. The question posed, is who owns the watch, and the
answer is, that because the jeweler has apparent authority to the
purchasing consumer to pass legal title to the watch, the purchasing
customer gets to keep it. The example accuratly describes the law in
the hypothetical situation, however the hypo is not analogous to the
situation at hand.
When a home brewer maintains possession of a keg, merely forfeiting
the deposit, the brewer is not a "good faith purchaser," as was the
watch customer in the above hypothetical. Subsection (1) of UCC 2-403,
is intended to protect a purchaser in good faith. A home brewer
is not a good faith purchaser because a reasonable home brewer is
aware that the keg is property of the brewer, and that the value of a
keg is far greater than the deposit he/she has placed. The cost that a
home brewer would incur should he/she purchase a keg at market,
and the manufacturer's "property of" insignia on the keg ensure that
the home brewer does not purchase in good faith.
Second, a beer retailer is not a merchant who deals in kegs and
therefore cannot transfer title to the property. Where a person
entrusts possession of goods to a merchant who deals in goods of that
kind (a jeweler entrusted with the repair of a watch for example),
power is given to the merchant to transfer all rights of the entruster
to a buyer in the ordinary course of business. A retailer is licensed to
sell beer, it is not their intention to deal in beer distribution hardware.
When a brewer transfers possession of the keg to the retailer, only the
power to pass title to the beer within the keg is transferred because
that is the kind of goods in which the merchant deals.
Finally, Mr. Bonham's argument blithly ignores the fact that the
stamp on a keg manifests the owner's intention to remain the rightful
owner of the property."
Thus Sayeth the Horse...
Thus Sayeth the Ho
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Date: Sat, 7 Jan 1995 02:09:42 -0500
From: PatrickM50 at aol.com
Subject: Re: Brewing Software
Ben Piela asked about using Brewing software; specifically:
>>>>1) Brew Master from Abita Software in CA for $39+$3P&H
2) Brewer's Calculator from Regent Software in CA for $39+$3P&H
3) Brew Wizard from ANTROM Associates in MD for $59.00+FREE P&H<<<<
I've tried the demo version of Brewer's Calculator and found it to be quite
extensive and informative. Unfortunately I could not enter my own data
(easily, that is!) so it was hard to compare it's resulting calculations with
other programs. I think I got it off AOL but I can't remember. Try calling
them direct for a demo copy. I have also tried Suds (both v3.0 and v3.1) but
have not yet decided to register and use it (it is shareware) because I am
not convinced that the hop calculations are accurate in the latest 3.1
version. They are vastly different from v.3.0. The author is quite helpful
and responsive when contacted via email however. Very easy to use, albeit a
bit clumsy (not really buggy but close!) in it's Windows implementation. BRF
(Beer Recipe Formulator) is a DOS only shareware program that does a pretty
good job as well but the latest version does not determine approx. alcohol
levels or let you save a recipe to file!! It's user interface is pretty
non-intuitive too, even considering it is a DOS program, not Windows. And
all three programs that I've tried come up with different IBU calculations
for the same exact hops used although they all pretty much agree on OG and
SRM when given the same grains and extract amounts. I use Byron Burch's book
and a Brewing Techniques magazine article on hops as a basis for IBU
calculations as they pretty much agree with each other and seem to echo my
experience with my own brews.
If anyone else has tried one of these or any other another program and can
recommend one I would be interested in hearing about your experiences as
well.
Pat Maloney. (PatrickM50 at aol.com)
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1625, 01/07/95