HOMEBREW Digest #1679 Tue 14 March 1995

Digest #1678 Digest #1680

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Flat beer summary (Larry Merkel)
  Cheap hop scale (Will Self)
  Looking for articles on Belgian beers ("Jay Lonner, charismatic icon animal man")
  Boiling Chlorox/Beer Bread (Bob Sutton)
  SUDS 4.0 release announcement (David Draper)
  German for Brewers (" Robert Bloodworth                            ZFBTO    - MT0054")
  Water analysis for Detroit Suburbs (Richard Hampo)
  Burton Water Salts / Beer styles-contests (Eric Bender)
  CO2 (SnowMS_at_CNTORSSA)
  Re: In defense of Grainger... (usfmchql)
  Grolsch gaskets (smtplink!guym)
  Carbonater Info ("Richard Scotty")
  IBU Calculation - summary (correction) (Glenn Tinseth)
  Re: canning wort ... (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Water filter/Toronto (Matt_K)
  1098 and Carbonation (Douglas R. Jones)
  Simple CP Bottle Filler Endorsement ("Palmer.John")
  Club Lists? ("Rick Violet")
  Pitch timing (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Mill Plans (Scott Reich)
  WANTED: opinions, please! ("Daniel Hertz")
  Wit, the offering (Jim Busch)
  DME vs Syrup/PureSeal bottlecaps (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  re: spring street brewery (Jsutera)
  request (M_BOGGS)
  Fermenters & U-brews (ChasHal)

****************************************************************** * NEW POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 15:47:15 -0600 From: larrymerkel at i-link.net (Larry Merkel) Subject: Flat beer summary Thanks to all the folks that took the time and effort to answer my question about flat beer. To refresh everyone's memory, my second batch of beer had come out well except that about 20-25% of the bottles were flat, and some of the others were super-foamy. I received 16 responses. By far the most prevalent theory was that I needed to get and use a bottling bucket. By racking to the bottling bucket with breboiled priming sugar solution inside, the sugar distrbutes well throughout the beer. The theory is that my priming sugar did not distribute well. Several votes were also received indicating that the capping might have been a problem. These folks indicated that they had seen this problem before, and found that the cap seals were messed up on the flat ones. See below for a few more comments. One person also mentioned that I was using bleach for my sanitizer, and perhaps I didn't get some of the bottles rinsed well enough. The bleach then killed the yeast in the bottle, so there was none to eat the priming sugar and create the CO2. A few other comments from folks that I found interesting, and so some others might as well: (Sorry I can't credit them...I wrote them down and deleted the mail before I realized that I should have credited them) "I use the same capper, (when I bottle) and in my quest to solve the flat beer dilemma I took to sealing the cap, rotating the bottle 90 degrees and re-sealing." "Conventional wisdom calls for boiling the priming sugar and racking the beer on top of the boiled priming solution. The swirling action is supposed to adequately distribute the sugar. I questioned this and resorted to gently stirring with a sanitized spoon and *BINGO* my flat beer problem was fixed, YMMV. I now put a blanket of co2 over the beer in the bottling bucket before stirring to avoid dreaded aeration." "If you're afraid of the aeration that comes from the extra transfer, try putting CO2 in the bucket first. I just use a bb gun cartrige and a dispenser that came from the local head shop for less noble pursuits. It's an extra $.50 per batch." "I have had great luck sanitizing with the HEAT DRY cycle in my dishwasher. A dishwasher wont CLEAN the inside of bottles, but the heat dry cycle will kill (pasturise) anything that could harm your beer (or you). Dont use soap in the dishwasher, just the last rinse and heat dry." "I finally thought to look at the cap and saw that the seal had come loose from the metal (probably during boiling) and therefore hadn't seated properly. I just soak caps in bleach now." "In your effort to keep from disturbing the yeast on the bottom of your carboy, you probably had most of your priming sugar solution fall straight to the bottom and sit there (makes sense because the S.G. of the sugar solution would be greater than the finished beer, and it would sink!)." "While bottling, re-stir the beer after every 6-8 bottles. Otherwise, the sugar increases the density and can stratify, causing the last few beers to be less carbonated (or so the theory goes)." Thanks, Larry Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 21:58:34 -0500 From: CFHBGordon at aol.com Subject: SIXTH ANNUAL SUNSHINE CHALLENGE The Central Florida Homebrewers present: SIXTH ANNUAL SUNSHINE CHALLENGE (AHA Sanctioned Competition Program) Mark your calendars for the biggest beer event in the southeast, The Sixth Annual Sunshine Challenge. On May 5, 6 and 7 in sunny Orlando, the Central Florida Home Brewers are planning a beer lovers weekend. City of Orlando Mayor, Glenda E. Hood has proclaimed Saturday, May 6th, as CENTRAL FLORIDA HOMEBREW DAY. All the events are located at THE MILL, Holiday Inn and Beach Brewing, Florida's first microbrewery. They are adjacent to and within walking distance to Universal Studios. ELIGIBILITY - This competition is open to anyone who wishes to enter. All entries must be homebrewed, no entries may be brewed in any commercial type facility. The names of all person brewing the beer must appear on the entry form. CATEGORIES - The SUNSHINE CHALLENGE is open to all categories listed in the 1995 AHA Style Guidelines except Category 28, Cider and Category 29, Sake. The entrant is responsible for identifying the category and subcategory of their entry(ies). Some categories may be combined, however, all entries will be judged in the category/subcategory in which they were entered. No entry will be reclassified. HOW TO ENTER - There is no restriction to the number of entries that may be submitted in any category or subcategory. Each entry must consist of three (3) clean, unmarked 10-14 ounce brown or green glass bottles. Bottles must not have any raised glass or silk screen markings or labels of any kind. If a printed cap is used, all printing or other identifying characteristics must be blacked out with a permanent black marker. No Grolsch-type or swing-top bottles. An AHA type entry/recipe form must be included and an identification form must be attached to each bottle using rubber bands - NO glue or tape. Submission of an entry shall convey to the Central Florida Homebrewers (CFHB) the right and permission to reproduce, with proper credit, the entrant's recipe. Entires should be received by the close of business, Monday, May 1, 1995. Each entry must be accompanied with a check or money order (no cash please) payable to CFHB for the full entry fee. A late fee of $2.00 per entry must be paid for all entries received after May 1. FEE SCHEDULE - Per Entry (thru May 1) $5.50 Per entry (after May 1) $7.50 Entries may be dropped off a designated locations in the Orlando metropolitan area, or shipped to: Vicki Hearst 5167 Hidden Springs Blvd. Orlando, Fl. 32819 JUDGING - Judging will be held in an open session at 11:00 AM on Saturday & 10:00 AM on Sunday, May 6 & 7, 1995. First place winners in each category will advance to "Best of Show" judging. Judges decisions are final. Judging forms and standings will be sent to entrants as soon as possible after the competition is concluded. AWARDS - First, Second, and Third Place winners will receive medals. First place, Best of Show, will receive a special beer glass. Best of Show First runner up and Second runner up will receive special awards. The HEAVY BREWER MEDAL will go to the individual with the most points in the competition. The SUNSHINE BOWL will go to the Club whose members total the most points in the competition. This award will be passed on year after year. QUESTIONS AND INFORMATION - E-mail CFHBGordon at aol.com In the Olrando area contact THE-BREW BBS at (407)-THE-BREW and leave comment to the Brewmeister ---------------------------------------------------- Central Florida Homebrewers schedule of events for the SIXTH ANNUAL SUNSHINE CHALLENGE Super special room rates of only $45.00++ a night are available at the Holiday Inn (407)351-3333 attached to the Mill Bakery, Eatery and Brewery. Simply tell them you are attending the Sunshine Challenge. Schedule of events: Friday, May 5th 8:00 PM - VIP Reception/Luau. Guest of Honor: Greg Noonan, renowned brewer, lecturer and writer will attend along with other "Beer Celebrities." (space limits this to 60 people so make your reservation early) Saturday, May 6th 9AM BJCP Exam in THE MILL ($50 First time, $30 retake) 11AM First round judging (to conclude between 3:00 and 3:30 PM 4PM - Greg Noonan will give an insightful presentation on the early years of micro-brewing and development of the handcrafted beer movement. 7:30PM - Barbecue buffet, exquisite micro-brewery beer, and a live band at THE MILL'S Beach Patio. Sunday, May 7th 10AM - Judging resumes (first and second rounds) and concludes with the Best of Show Judging. 2PM - Three hour Pub Crawl 5PM - Awards Ceremony and Central Florida Homebrewers meeting begins. Cost for these events: At the door In advance VIP Reception (Friday night): $16.00 $14.00 Seminar (Saturday afternoon): $12.00 $10.00 Barbecue (Saturday evening): $19.00 $17.00 Pub Crawl (Sunday afternoon): $10.00 $ 8.00 does not include drinks ============= =========== $57.00 $49.00 Commemorative T-Shirt(M,L,XL,XXL) $15.00 $13.00 (DISCLAIMER - The foregoing information is reproduced here as a service to the online brewing community. In no event shall the poster of this information be held liable for any errors or omissions. An honest effort has been made to communicate the sum of the contents of the official announcement from the CFHB) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 22:45:56 -0700 From: wself at viking.emcmt.edu (Will Self) Subject: Cheap hop scale For the new brewer. You can make a very inexpensive (free) hop-weighing scale, which will be perfectly fine for the occasional brewer. It is similar to ones that were much used in the 60's to weigh a certain botanical relative of the hop. It is made from corrugated cardboard and a small paper sack, and some paper clips and nails. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -> . Corner C Hole A Hole B . . o o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . sack . . hangs . . here . | | | | . . | | | | . . | | | | . .|. |. |.|. - - - - (nails pointing up) Cut this piece out of corrugated cardboard with the corrugations running vertically. The actual distance from corner C to hole B should be about 8 or 9 inches. The curve running from Corner C to the nails should be an arc of a circle centered at Hole A. Make holes A and B. A paper punch will do nicely. With a small saw, like a coping saw, cut off two 3/16 inch pieces from the end of a cheap ballpoint pen and glue these pieces into the holes (as little bushings) to reinforce them. Put some glue on 4 12-penny nails and push them into the corrugations of the cardboard, as shown. Tack a small nail into a wall. You will hang hole A on the small nail. Punch a hole near the top of a lunch-size paper bag, after first reinforcing the bag with tape, inside and out, where the hole will be. Hand the bag from hole B with light wire or a chain of paper clips. You will be marking a scale on the arc that runs from corner C down to the nails. This will be 0 near corner C and about 4 ounces down near the nails. You may want to glue some white paper along there before marking the scale. You will need one mark on the wall to line up with the marks on your scale. This is shown by the arrow near corner C. Friction against the wall can be reduced by putting a couple of small washers (of cardboard or anything) behind hole A. You can use the following to calibrate: 1/4 ounce = 1 nickel and 1 dime (U.S. coins) 1/2 ounce = 2 nickels and 2 dimes 3/4 ounce = 1 nickel and 2 dimes and 4 pennies 1 ounce = 2 nickels and 3 dimes and 4 pennies To go higher, use multiples of the one-ounce equivalent, which you will find to be quite accurate. Be sure to have the sack in place when you calibrate. Will Self Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 22:08:48 -0800 (PST) From: "Jay Lonner, charismatic icon animal man" <8635660 at NESSIE.CC.WWU.EDU> Subject: Looking for articles on Belgian beers Brewers, Late last year, in preparation for the Spirit of Belgium competition, several articles were posted that amounted to an FAQ on brewing Belgian beers. I've just had a look in the Stanford archives but could not find these documents there. Are they available somewhere via anonymous FTP, and if so would some kind soul direct me toward them? I'm gearing up to brew a Wit and would like to read up on the subject. TIA, Jay. - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jay Lonner 8635660 at nessie.cc.wwu.edu Bellingham, WA - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ARE YOU ABNORMAL? Then you're probably better than most people! Send $1 to: The SubGenius Foundation, P.O. Box 140306, Dallas, TX 75214 - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 07:01 EST From: Bob Sutton <BSutton_+a_FDGV-03_+lBob_Sutton+r%Fluor_Daniel at mcimail.com> Subject: Boiling Chlorox/Beer Bread Boiling Chlorox - The Nightmare Continues (and Beer Bread) Bruce DeBolt (keithfrank at dow.com) wrote re: dishwasher detergents. Just for clarification sodium silicate (my CRC tells me this is sand) is used as a flow assist/anti-caking agent. Its that debris that is left in all your plastic cups and saucers that toppled over during the last dishwasher run. I doubt that machine parts derive any benefit, unless abrasive cleaning is beneficial. Anyway since the topic is open, I soak my bottles 1/2 cup of Cascade (not a plug...wink, wink, nod, nod) PLUS a 1/4 cup of CHLOROX per gallon of hot (130-150F) water. A 15 minute soak followed by a jet rinse covers everything. I contacted P&G about the advisability of adding bleach to their product. Of course they said it wasn't required, however no problem. Just add the bleach last (detergent + water + you know), and work in a "well-ventilated" area ;-) But it doesn't end there...as any micro major knows, wet bottles are a potential source for bacterial residence, so I heat kill all my bottles at 350F for 4 hours (generally I run this overnight...I knew that the Time Bake feature had a purpose). One caveat...be sure to remove the Grolsch type tops BEFORE heating. Seems they switched to plastic and I missed it, Whew what a mess, and at 3 am too. Arthur_S_Ward.henr801h%xerox.com at vmsmail:SMTP was asking about beer bread. I have a killer recipe but hold misgivings about cooking with beer... anyway here it is 1.25 cups of your favorite (hiccup) 2.25 cups of BREAD flour 0.75 cups of whole wheat flour 1 tsp salt (NaCl) 1.5 tbl butter 0.67 cups of molasses 0.33 cups of cornmeal 0.33 cups of all bran cereal 1.75 tsp yeast I won't get into details here, just follow the general procedure for breadmaking (see any cookbook) and bake at 350F until the crust is brown and firm. Enjoy.. BrewOn Bob Sutton Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 22:12:20 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au> Subject: SUDS 4.0 release announcement Dear Friends, here is the announcement for the long-awaited new release of SUDS by Michael Taylor. I am posting it here simply to get the word out asap. All you IBUmeisters out there, take particular note... Cheers, Dave in Sydney [begin included file] Hi SUDS users! Just a note to announce release SUDSW 4.0 for Windows. As always, this is a free upgrade to all registered users of SUDSW provided you obtain the program yourself. The program is currently available on: Compuserve in Wine/Beer forum (GO WINE) in General Homebrewing area as SUDW40.EXE America Online as SUDW40.EXE in Windows file area The Power BBS (610)740-9196 in Distribution Headquarters library as SUDW40.ARJ (ARJ decompression program needed to decompress) Within the next few weeks, SUDSW 4.0 will be available on: Internet: ftp from sierra.stanford.edu (or wherever they move it to!!!), probably also from WWW. Ziffnet as SUDW40.ZIP SUDSW 4.0 changes o Added robust water temperature and usage calculations to the recipe formulator. o Fixed problems in page alignment when printing. o Added spin buttons to date fields for easier data entry. o Added user-editable hop utilization tables allowing customization of IBU calculation methods in SUDSW. o Removed label routine from program o Updated AHA style guidelines for 1995. You will notice that hop ibu calculations default to Jackie Rager 1990 Zymurgy figures. The formulator will now show higher values closer to release 3.0 of SUDS. If you prefer the figures used in SUDSW 3.1, run the GARETZ.BAT file to utilize Mark Garetz figures. If you prefer the figures of Glenn Tinseth, run the TINSETH.BAT file to install those ibu tables. You can also refer to online documentation on how to edit the IBU tables yourself. If you cannot get the program from the above sources, I will gladly send you a disk for a $7 handling charge with release 4.0 of SUDSW. Send a request to: Michael C. Taylor 1626 Main Street Bethlehem, PA 18018-1905 Compuserve: 76625,2552 Internet: 76625.2552 at compuserve.com Thanks again for all of your support and for making SUDSW such fun to develop! Happy Brewing, Mike [end included file] Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 06:51:01 EST From: " Robert Bloodworth ZFBTO - MT0054" <debaydr9 at ibmmail.com> Subject: German for Brewers In HBD 1667 AJ asked about my sig: >"Hopfen und Malz gehoeren in den Halz" which I'd make "Hops and Malt belong >in the neck". Is that right. Does it mean down the throat? The accusative form "in den" connotes a motion into or down the throat. In the throat would be "in dem Halz", using the dative form. Sorry about the bandwidth, now a question for you extract brewers. Has anyone tried the Brewferm kits for Belgen Beers? The assortment of flavors such as Kriek, Trappist, Wit and Belgen Dark, sounds very interesting. I saw these at a shop in Belgium last weekend. Price, ca. $12 for 10 liters of beer. How's the quality? Bob Bloodworth Cologne "Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalt's!" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 08:08:20 EST From: captain at vulcan.srl.ford.com (Richard Hampo) Subject: Water analysis for Detroit Suburbs Howdy, Does anyone out there have water analysis results for western Detroit suburbs? Livonia, Michigan, to be exact? I think all of the area's water comes from the Detroit river. I thought I'd ask before chasing it down through the water department.... Thanks in advance, Richard Hampo H & H Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 09:08:21 -0500 (EST) From: Eric Bender <benderec at ttown.apci.com> Subject: Burton Water Salts / Beer styles-contests I have been trying to perfect a english style old ale (all grain) this year and have made some very good tasting beers. But in comparrison to some classic commercial versions, my english ales lack the complexity of the finer commercial brews. I decided to bite the $$ bullet and have my well water analyzed. My water turns out to be moderately soft and low in mineral content. To get to the point, I want to add burton salts which lists CaSO4, MgSO4, and NaCl as the ingredients. My question is, can anyone tell me at what percentage of each of these salts are in burton salts? I've seen calculations for each one of these salts listed seperately (PPM/GRAM), but not burton salts as a whole. I'd like to start this comment/question out by saying that homebrew contests and the results we receive from the judges are valuable to all homebrewers who are interested in improving their beer. Where beer styles are concerned, I have some mixed emotions about a delicious beer that does not quite fit into the style in which it was entered and suffers terribly in the final results because of it. To make matters worse, mixed signals are being sent out through the publications we homebrewers read. In the Winter 1994 Zymurgy, the recipe for the "silver" medal winner in last years AHA contest for Kolsch has the first judges comment as "Lacks Kolsch fruitiness". Then in the same issue, the descriptions for styles for AHA national competion for Kolsch says; No fruitiness, or esters. I have a Kolsch (maybe) that fits all the descriptions, except I do have some fruitiness. Can I possibly look forward to good scores or another "not true to style" entry on the results sheet? Eric Bender Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 10:38:43 EST From: SnowMS_at_CNTORSSA at CCIP.PERKIN-ELMER.COM Subject: CO2 A.J. deLange commented about CO2 pressure at various temperatures. One comment is that above 31C the CO2 in the cylinder becomes supercritical(which is a state between a gas and a liquid). For those who remember from high school that all materials are gas,liquids and solids, here is the new list of the states of matter Plasma Gas Supercritical Fluid Liquid Non-Newtonian Fluid Solid Zero Entropy Lattice Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 10:40:25 EST From: usfmchql at ibmmail.com Subject: Re: In defense of Grainger... As indicated in a fax from an anonymous FTP (Fax Transmitting Person) from Acme Mills, in HBD# 1677 I incorrectly called FMEA's Failure Mode Engineering Analysis. Should have been Failure Mode & Effects Analysis. My head hangs down in shame... Brew On! Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | 'Let a good beer be the exclamation usfmchql at ibmmail.com | point at the end of your day as (313)33-73657 (V) | every sentence requires proper (313)59-42328 (F) | punctuation.' ;-) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 09:13:39 MDT From: exabyte!smtplink!guym at uunet.uu.net Subject: Grolsch gaskets In HBD #1678, Brian Pickerill asks how many times one can use Grolsch gaskets before replacing them. I have between 50 and 60 Grolsch bottles that I have used for over 4 years now without EVER replacing the gaskets. I have never had an infection or carbonation problem with them to date. I typically use them to bottle stouts (my favorite style) and Christmas brews (typically spiced stouts in my case - see a pattern here?!) though I did bottle a Blueberry Melomel in them as well. One of the Christmas brews that I put in these bottles is from my recipe in the Cat's Meow called "Christmas in Ireland". A friend and I drank the last bottle of that this past Christmas - it was over 3 years old and absolutely superb! My procedure is not to replace them until they are visibly deformed or dry-rotted. Incidentally, I sanitize these in the dishwasher without soap and with the gaskets in place. Just one man's experience. -- Guy McConnell | Exabyte Corp. | Huntersville, NC | guym at exabyte.com "And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one for dessert." Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Mar 1995 09:36:36 U From: "Richard Scotty" <richard_scotty at msmgate.mrg.uswest.com> Subject: Carbonater Info Bob Christopher gives a reave review of the Carbonater cap. I have to agree completely that this is one of the handiest gadgets that I have. He asks if you can fill from a keg and "re-charge" them - the answer Bob is yes - I do it all the time and no longer have to haul a keg and tank around. Just cut a piece of tubing a little longer than the bottle is tall and insert it in your keg tap. Hold the tubing firmly to avoid a brew shower and quietly fill the bottle from the bottom. Attach the cap and hit it with about 30 PSI of CO2. I also use this on the small 16 oz Coke / Pepsi bottles so I can give away brews without the hassle of traditional bottling. I did have trouble with one cap which the Liquid Bread people _IMMEDIATELY_ took care of by replacing the defective cap. I have heard a rumor that they are using a new manufacturing process to produce these caps much more cost effectively and that the price should drop soon. Standard disclaimers apply. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 09:49:45 -0800 From: gtinseth at teleport.com (Glenn Tinseth) Subject: IBU Calculation - summary (correction) Frank Longmore <longmore at tyrell.net> in summarizing his reading on the subject of calculating BUs writes: > 4. There is some belief that boiling for longer than 60 minutes > will actually decrease the hop bitterness. I know this is somehow embedded in the homebrew literature (at least the older stuff), but it is definitely not true. Studies I've seen always show that bitterness continues to increase, even out to 3 hours of boiling. You do, however, get the most bang for your buck in the first 45 minutes of boiling. Norm Pyle, this should be in the FAQ, don't you think? If anyone out there doesn't yet have the Hops FAQ <ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/clubs/beer/> get it. Norm does a great job keeping it up to date and it's filled with great info, including another, very interesting set of util numbers :^) Cheers, Glenn (The Hop Page is coming...) Glenn Tinseth gtinseth at teleport.com Project Manager Homebrewer and Certified Beer Judge Terra Pacific Writing Corp--Technical Communication and Translation Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 13:10:46 EST From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: canning wort ... Even if the botulin organism is dead, if it *has grown* and produced the toxin, the toxin will still be present. The ONLY way to be sure of not getting botulin poisoning is to can under conditions where it will not grow (pressure can, or pH < 4.6), or to reboil the canned goods after decanting them (and BEFORE tasting them). I heard from one correspondant who said that his starter wort had a pH about 4.6. YMMV. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 13:12:13 est From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca Subject: Water filter/Toronto Message: Two quick questions: I've managed to justify installing a water filter to without mentioning the "brew" word. You can either install one of these things under the sink or in the basement. If the filter is installed in the basement where the water enters the house all the water sitting in the pipes (and the hot water tank) will not be clorinated. Could this cause a problem? Also we will be in Toronto this weekend. Any info re. good beer/eating places will be appreciated. Many thank's Matt in Montreal Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 13:13:23 -0600 From: djones at iex.com (Douglas R. Jones) Subject: 1098 and Carbonation Well after scanning the archives I haven't found any wisdom so I will see what the collective has to say. I brewed a 1064 OG ale using 1098. I followed my normal pattern which is 1 week in the primary at 68F, 2 weeks in the secondary at 68F, bottle/minikeg with 3/4 cup corn sugar. Age 2 weeks, chill and drink. Well I chilled 2 bottles and 1 minikeg. The bottles were flat. Just a couple of CO2 bubbles. A real shocker! This is my 13th batch. Follwed my normal routine for bottle. Soak ina 25 ppm Iodophor solution, rinse in very hot water and a hot dry cycle in the dishwasher. Any ideas? I did tap the keg. Sorta chickened out. I saw where plenty of folks commented on rapid ferments (saw that) and poor flocculation (didn't see that). In fact I thought mine flock'd nicely. Storage temp has been in the 72F range. Worked for other batches. So any ideas? Should I tap the minikeg and take my chances? TIA, Doug - -------------------------------------------------- 'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation Led Zeppelin | (214)301-1307 | djones at iex.com - -------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Mar 1995 11:19:58 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Simple CP Bottle Filler Endorsement Hey Friends, I wanted to tell you that I made the simple CP bottle filler based on the HBD re-post of a week or more ago made with a 3/8 raking cane and a #2 stopper. It works SO well it isnt even funny! Cripes! When I think of the three messy hours I spent spilling beer trying to fill from the keg thru the tap compared to the 5 minutes to fill 3 bottles with no foaming or spillage and no foaming over while trying to put caps on, Geez! EVERYONE should have one! I used a standard liquid side pinlock fitting w/ 2ft of 3/16 ID hose attached by brass hose barbs to a brass needle valve to a hosebarb to hosebarb adapter (3/16 to 5/16 ID tubing). The 5/16 ID tubing was softened by hot water and slipped over a piece of 3/8 plastic racking cane with a #2 stopper on it. That's it! I spent 20 buck on parts because I was in a hurry and didn't want to drive to another hardware store. Otherwise the biggest ticket items are the pinlock fitting and the needle valve at about 6 bucks each. Total combined tubing length is 3 feet. To use it: 1. Slide the stopper to the appropriate height and insert the tube and stopper into the bottle. A super tight seal is not necessary or desired. But as the original post said, keep your thumb over it so it doesn't shoot out. 2. Open the needle valve, there will be considerable foaming at first, but after the pressure starts to build it will quickly stop. 3. As the bottle fills and the pressure equalizes it may be necessary to vent the bottle, by wiggling the stopper a bit, a couple times to keep it filling, especially as the beer gets into the neck. Fill it almost to the base of the stopper. There will be less than a quarter inch of foam on top. 4. Close the valve, pause a few seconds, and then vent the bottle and draw out the tube. I experienced no rush of foam at this point. Very stable and no mess. 5. Cap that puppie. The only caveat, as Kinney noted in an earlier post, is that you either need to flush the bottle with CO2 or consume it soon, otherwise the compressed air during filling results in oxidation after a couple weeks. Of course if you are just filling some bottles to take to a meeting or short time storage, this is not a concern. Its the best device since the Egg McMuffin. John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P johnj at primenet.com Huntington Beach, California Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/ Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Mar 1995 12:42:08 -0800 From: "Rick Violet" <rick_violet at powertalk.apple.com> Subject: Club Lists? Anyone know where I can find a listing of homebrew clubs? I am located near San Fransisco (San Jose specifically). Private e-mail is ok. TIA Rick Violet Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 14:50 EST From: Scott_Lutke at vos.stratus.com Subject: BENEFITS OF GYLE FOR A PRIMER I make 15 gal. batches and use gyle, some of the reason are: My fermenter capacity is 16.5 gal. I make just under 16.5 gal. of wort, take out just under 1.5 gal. of wort just before pitching my yeast and store it in a sterile mason jar in my frig. while my batch ferments out. This brings the level of my batch back down to 15 gal. allowing me over 15% expansion in my fermenter which is needed so I don't blow thru my blow-off tube. after my batch reaches a bottling gravity, I tranfering to my bottling bucket (16.5 gal. cap.) I then add the unfermented gyle to my batch in the bottling bucket bring the level back just under 16.5 gal. then bottle. The biggest Benefit is that I can make more beer with my current fermenter then I could if I used sugar. (just under 1.5 gal. more) VS. the 3 cups of priming suger plus 3 cups of water. Whats that, something around 1.5 quart? Plus thats one less ingedient I have to buy and store in a cool place ect... maybe you can taste the differents and maybe you can't. I just tell everybody I can and they nod and say I think your right as they enjoy the free hame-brew. The formula for figuring gyle is: Quarts of gyle (unfermenter wort) = 12 X gallons of wort ---------------------------- (specific gravity -1) X 1000 PS. I find that using 25% more then the formula calls for does nicely. good luck and enjoy. Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Mar 95 13:39:00 -0600 From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Pitch timing Don writes: >True. Thanks, also, for the references on yeast metabolism. >The reason I use the method outlined above is that by waiting >for the yeast to fall (AFTER high krausen), I have hopefully >built up large glycogen reserves in the yeast population. I >then decant the spent wort, pitch a pint of fresh wort, aerate, and >pitch at high krausen. This has the benefit of maximizing >yeast glycogen reserves, and pithing during the exponential >growth phase, which reduces lag times AND produces a healthy >and vigourous ferment. This is the same technique I used in the >bio-tech lab for yeast and E. Coli cultures in my previous life as a >gene cloner. It works. It works and it makes fine beer, but I still contend that it may not be the ideal pitching timing. When you waited for the yeast to fall, you did in fact get them to a pretty high glycogen level. However, by adding fresh wort, you are restarting their cycle and the first thing that yeast do when they discover fresh food is to reproduce. I believe that for the first two (check this) hours of respiration, the yeast do not eat the new sugar that is in their environment, but rather use their glycogen reserves up. They then begin eating the sugar in their environment. When this environmental sugar begins to be depleated, they start to replenish their glycogen stores. By adding the new wort and waiting for high kraeusen, you are pitching the yeast at their lowest glycogen levels despite the fact that they were at high levels *before* you added the second feeding to the starter. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 14:15:14 -0500 From: scottr at trnd.rdsystem.com (Scott Reich) Subject: Mill Plans I've been brewing for almost 2 years now and have recently made the leap into all grain. Currently I've been looking into purchasing a mill, however my father-in-law is quite a machinist and could probably construct one is given some plans. Does anyone know of where I can acquire such plans. Thx, Scott~ ~ scottr at rdsystem.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 8:33:02 MST From: "Daniel Hertz" <hertz at acs.ucalgary.ca> Subject: WANTED: opinions, please! I apologize that this is NOT a homebrewing related question.... I'm doing a feature article on the current trend for drinking specialized beer and the rise of micro-breweries/brewpubs. Why are we seeing more and more craft beers and brewpubs? What is this trend to drinking less but better? I WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!! And if anyone out there has an opinion on Canadian brews, especially in the Calgary area (Big Rock, Bresters, Mission Bridge Brewing Company, Bow Valley Breweries, Molson's new "Signature Series"...), let me know. Do you think Microbrews are worth the premium price? Look forward to hearing your thoughts. Please reply to my personal mail box: hertz at acs.ucalgary.ca Daniel Hertz, Beverage Critic, The Calgary Sun Tel/Fax: (403) 245-8740 - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 17:07:09 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Wit, the offering Steven asks about the Spring St brewing co offering that appeared on Internet newsgroups and other places. Here is what I posted to alt.beer last week about this offering. Disclaimer: make your own decisions, this may turn out to be a great chance or........ I saw with interest the Internet offering of Wit!, the beer. I guess the first thing that got my attention was using the Internet to solicit funds for a brewery. Since Ive just invested in a small microbrewery/pub, Ive been actively researching the subject. So, I emailed and received an offering package. To summarize: Wit! is run by a young (34) Harvard Law lawyer. Shades of Jim Koch already come to mind. Wit! was developed by hiring the brewmaster from Raaf, Netherlands. This part really suprised me, since Raaf in Amsterdam is a damn fine wit bier, damn better than Wit! contract brewed in Minnesota. I guess the brewmaster wanted a lot more money to give em a really good beer! Wit!'s brewing is supervised by Dr. Owades , the same guy who was involved in the creation of light beer. This is already sounding like Sam Adams II, dressed in Belgian clothing. As one reads further, it becomes more and more apparent that this contract brewer is very interested in marketing, much more so over beer. In fact, he has already sold shares of the company to a marketing firm to produce point of sale materials. This is a trend that the company has followed for some time, trade shares of equity for services rendered. Not that this is bad, but I see a trend here, and dilution of the corporate equity is inevitible. The offering is targeting $5 million of capital raised. By far the bulk of this capital is to be spent on marketing and associated sales force. The company has already lost close to a million dollars and is only present in a few major markets. Wit! is brewed by the same folks who make Petes Wicked. The stocks are essentially penny stocks that sell for under $2. The way you make moeny on this is through the *chance* that eventually this company will be the next Sam Adams and have stocks that are worth a lot more than the original few cents. No dividends, no plans to be traded, etc... I guess the thing that bothers me about this kind of company is that they like to maintain the appearence of being a high quality microbrewery, and even refer to themselves as a microbrewery, when in fact they are a group of lawyers and marketing executives. If thats what you want running your company, by all means go ahead and invest. For my money, Ill stick to smaller operations that have beer as the essence of the operation in all aspects, not merely a means to an end. After all, the best micros in america have grown from the bottom up, Sierra, Anchor, even Red Hook. Marketing is important but the beer must come first. Jim Busch busch at mews.gsfc.nasa.gov "DE HOPPEDUIVEL DRINKT MET ZWIER 'T GEZONDE BLOND HOPPEBIER!" Return to table of contents
Date: 13 Mar 95 16:09:00 -0600 From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: DME vs Syrup/PureSeal bottlecaps Tim writes: >I would appreciate any insights into the differences, if any, between >Dried Malt Extract and Syrup. Seems to me that everything I have seen >says to use either - that they are "interchangeable" if you will. DME is about 3-6% water and syrups are about 20-25% water. Therefore there are quite a few more "points" in DME than in syrup. If you substitute one for the other you need to add about 15% more syrup (or about 15% less DME). With time (several months), syrup tends to get darker and take on oxidized flavours. I have not noticed any degredation with DME, so perhaps it is more stable? *** Steve writes: >>Smartcaps (PureSeal) bottlecaps lose their ability to absorb oxygen >>if you boil them... > >I thought I had read somewhere that boiling PureSeal caps "activated" their >ability to absorb oxygen. Not so? If they shouldn't be boiled, is >sanitizing with chlorine solution ok? Perhaps it does activate them but at boiling temperatures maybe their oxygen absorption ability fizzles out before they can be put to use... I don't know. What I *do* know, from my conversation with the lead engineer that designed PureSeal (aka SmartCaps) bottlecaps is that they are no better than regular bottlecaps if you boil them. He said to sanitize them in 200ppm Chlorine Bleach solution. I should call him back and ask about iodophor because I now use bleach only for bottlecaps and cleaning the gunk off the ceiling of the carboy and use iodophor or OneStep for all my other sanitizing needs. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 17:54:09 EST From: ustcclj3 at ibmmail.com Subject: HB Stores in the Houston Tx. Area *** Warning, very regional post *** Hello all, The ways of life will have me relocating to Houston Tx. I would appreciate any info on home brew stores or brew pubs in the Houston area. I'd also be interested in any info on places in the South Houston to Galvaston area since I will hopefully be living in Clear Lake. Private Replies are ok, or post to the digest Thanks in advance Richard Getteau ustcclj3 at ibmmail.com * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Message From : GETTEAU, RICHARD * * Location : US-ATLANTA(OFACSERV) * * KOMAIL ID : A09967 (OFACSERV) * * Date and Time: 03/13/95 17:52:05 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 20:50:56 -0500 From: Jsutera at aol.com Subject: re: spring street brewery The initial offering was in nov or dec 1994 and sold out in about a month, alot of beer drinkers willing to jump in and own a part of a brewery, better luck next time. I also missed the boat. -Spring street brewery of new york is actually a contract brewery that brews its beer at a St. Paul minn. brewery. -As for the taste try a bottle, I found it at the first beer store that I looked in, Its a belgian style beer. I'm not a belgian beer drinker so I will leave the description out. It's good though. Keep an eye on Sam Adams, Sierra Nevada, Anchor Steam, Full Sail, Widmer's and Petes Wicked. All are privately owned but could go public in the future.(ale street news feb/march 95) joe Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 21:41:15 -0500 (EST) From: M_BOGGS at delphi.com Subject: request Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 22:12:13 -0500 From: ChasHal at aol.com Subject: Fermenters & U-brews I would appreciate any information and especially experience which any one has had with either of two fermenters I have recently heard about. One is a 6 gal. glass carboy by Symbio (distributed by Wine & Beer Club, Gatineau. Que.). It has a hole drilled near the base and has a tap installed. The other is a Lexan polycarbonate resin 7.5 gal. fermenter sold under the name "Mr. Beer". Each of these items seems interesting but I wonder how they actually work I would also like to hear from brewers who have used a u-brew. One has just opened in my area. I do not want to spend the money or the time making a large batch of beer without the benefit of other people's experience. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1679, 03/14/95