HOMEBREW Digest #1708 Tue 18 April 1995

Digest #1707 Digest #1709

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Re: Will my beer be OK? (HBD #1703) (G. Garnett)
  1-800 catalog numbers (James A Lindberg)
  Dry Hopping (Norman Pyle)
  testing pH by titration? (Will Self)
  Cure for Drunkenes (aaron.banerjee)
  Fields Brewing Company! (Jeff Wade)
  Is it legal in Missouri yet? (Phil Miller)
  Re: Herb beers/mead and NA beer ("Lee C. Bussy")
  Re: Contest results ("Lee C. Bussy")
  Malting Barley (Jason Axley)
  Minikeg carbonation ("Jeffrey W. Van Deusen")
  Who's who on HBD? (David Draper)
  Subject: Felinfoel (MClarke950)
  Plastic tubing/Heating enzymes/Tummy stout (Philip Gravel)
  I took the list all winter and really enjoyed it. My summer schedual (Dean S Sundwark)
  TOO bitter! (Charles E. Deaton)
  buying beelegs (Carl Etnier)
  Mash Questions (MMMST40)
  Kegging commercial beer question (David Divalerio)
  RIMS cleaning (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Keg-bung preparation (DABLUES)
  ftp.stanford? (Bob Sinnema)
  Drinking Age in England (Jeff Hewit)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 11:24:53 -0400 From: ggarnett at qrc.com (G. Garnett) Subject: Re: Will my beer be OK? (HBD #1703) My apologies if this is seems like (yet another) "Me too!" message, but Mike Demers has a very good point here, and one that I don't think is emphasized enough in the various beginners' books on homebrewing (particularly Papazian's book). mdemers at ccmailpc.ctron.com wrote: > My suggestion to one and all is: TASTE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Beer is food, folks, it's edible from the beginning of the process and it's a Good Idea to taste and smell everything - the ingredients, the sweet wort, the green beer (and, of course) the final product. Crunch a barleycorn between your teeth and taste the grain. Put your nose in a bag of hops and smell them. If you're an extract brewer, scoop a bit of the syrup from the lid of the can with your finger, and taste that. Taste your wort; personally, I drink at least a little bit of every hydrometer sample I take - and generally get at least as much useful information from the taste as I get from reading the number on the side of the hydrometer. With a bit of experience, you'll be able to taste the changes your beer goes through during fermentation and conditioning. Have a little patience and faith, too - beer takes time, and even if it tastes bad now, give it a few weeks. Case in point: I'm an extract brewer, and recently I had a batch of amber ale where everything seemed to go wrong: I somehow grabbed the wrong (hopped instead of unhopped) can of extract at the brew store, and had to rethink my hop schedule while waiting for the wort to boil. Hop pellet and cold break material clogged up my strainer while I was pouring the partially-chilled wort into my fermentor. While I was trying to deal with that, I dropped the strainer into the (nearly full) fermenter. While I'd sanitized the thing, that didn't include the handle, and I was sure that the extra iron wouldn't do me or my beer much good. So I gritted my teeth, rolled up my sleeve, scrubbed my arm, and fished the thing out of there. Now all that junk was in the fermenter anyway, so I grabbed a couple of packets of dry yeast, rehydrated, and pitched them to get the ferment started fast, before the nasties could get a strong hold on the beer. I tasted my hydrometer sample (right before pitching the yeast) and was a bit concerned that I'd overdone the bittering, as well as being concerned about the possibility of an infection. Fermentation went well (and quickly), and I could tell from the taste (as well as the hydrometer readings) that the yeast was doing its stuff. I was still a bit concerned, though: the bitterness was awfully harsh, and seemed to be getting worse as the ferment proceeded. By bottling time, the beer was just this side of drinkable, but I went ahead and bottled it anyway. After a week, the beer was pretty well carbonated, but the bitterness was still as bad as it was when I'd bottled. Other than that (which was pretty bad), there didn't seem to be any sign of infection, so I kept tasting it once or twice a week. Suddenly (it seemed nearly overnight, but was probably over the course of about a week) about a month after bottling, the beer got better! The bitterness mellowed, and while it'll probably never win any awards, the result is quite drinkable and is dissapearing from the cellar at a respectable rate. Don't give up, and keep tasting your brew! Guy Garnett, Rockville MD ggarnett at qrc.com - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hakuna Matata and have a homebrew! Guy Garnett - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ggarnett at qrc.com Standard disclaimers apply Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 95 11:00:17 CDT From: jal at ted.cray.com (James A Lindberg) Subject: 1-800 catalog numbers 1-800 AND INTERNET BREW NUMBERS FOR HOMEBREW CATALOGS Beverage People CA 800-544-1867 Big Basin Brewing CA 800-509-2739 Brewers Resource CA 800-827-3983 Brimhall Brew Barn CA 800-414-2739 Culver City Home Brewing CA 800-382-7394 cchbs at ix.netcom.com Fun Fermentations CA 800-950-9463 Great Fermentations CA 800-542-2520 GFSR CA 800-544-1867 HopTech CA 800-379-4677 South Bay Homebrew Supply CA 800-608-2739 74557.1102 at compuserve.com Williams Brewing CA 800-759-6025 Yeasty Brew Unlimited CA 800-928-2739 Highlander CO 800-388-3923 Rocky Mountain HOMEBREW CO sabbe at zymurgy.stortek.com Maltose Express CT 800-625-8673 Barley & Hops Trading FL 800-810-4677 Best Brew FL 800-780-2739 Hearts Homebrew Supply FL 800-392-8322 Sebastion Brewers Sply FL 800-780-7837 Brew Your Own Beverages GA 800-477-2962 Brewtopia GA 800-540-6258 The Whistle Pig GA 800-947-5744 S.P.S. Beer Stuff IA spsbeer at netins.net http://www.netins.net/showcase/spsbeer The Brewer's Coop IL 800-451-6348 Alternative Garden Supply IL 800-444-2837 Heartland Hydr & HB IL 800-354-4769 Home Brewing Emporium IL 800-455-2739 73427.1241 at compuserve.com Beer & Wine Hobby MA 800-523-5423 The Modern Brewer MA 800-736-3253 Stella Brew MA 800-248-6823 The Vineyard MA 800-626-2371 Brew Masters MD 800-466-9557 Brew N Kettle MD 800-809-3003 Gus's Discount Warehouse MI 800-475-9688 The Yeast Culture Kit Co MI 800-742-2110 Braukunst Homebrewers Sys MN 800-972-2728 73507.2256 at cis.com Brew and Grow MN 800-230-8191 Pine Cheese Mart MN 800-596-2739 James Page Brewery MN 800-347-4042 Northern Brewer MN 800-681-2739 http://www.winternet.com/~nbrewer/ Semplex MN 800-488-5444 jiminmpls at aol.com Wind River Brewing MN 800-266-4677 The Home Brewery MO 800-321-2739 Alternative Beverage NC 800-365-2739 BrewBetter Supply NC Brewbetter at aol.com Brewco NC baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu Olde Fangled Fermment. NH 800-379-6258 Stout Billy's NH 800-392-4792 The Brewmeister NJ 800-322-3020 Red Bank Brewing Supply NJ 800-779-7507 Coyote Home Brewing Suply NM 800-779-2739 Mr. Radz Homebrew Supply NV 800-465-4723 gustav at enet.net Brew By You NY 800-986-2739 Brewers Den NY 800-449-2739 The Brewery NY 800-762-2560 East Coast Brewing Supply NY http://virtumall.com/EastCoastBrewing/ECBMain.html Great Lakes Brew Supply NY 800-859-4527 Hennessey Homebrew NY 800-462-7397 The Hoppy Troll NY 800-735-2739 KEDCO NY 800-654-9988 New York Homebrew NY 800-966-2739 US Brewing Supply NY 800-383-9303 The Grape & Granary OH 800-695-9870 Brew Ha Ha PA 800-243-2620 Beer Unlimited PA 800-515-0666 Bet-Mar SC 800-822-7713 U-Brew SC 800-845-4441 BrewHaus TN 800-638-2437 DeFalco's TX 800-216-2739 Homebrew Sup. of Dallas TX 800-270-5922 St. Patrick's of Texas TX stpats at wixer.bga.com Scientific Service TX 800-894-9507 Beer Boy Enterprises VA 800-484-7401 (enter 5786 after beep) The Brewer's Club VA 800-827-3948 HomeBrew International VA 800-447-4883 Something's Brewing VA tayers at aol.com The Cellar WA 800-342-1871 Evergreen Brewing Sup. WA 800-789-2739 The Homebrew Store WA 800-827-2739 Jim's Homebrew WA 800-326-7769 Liberty Malt Supply WA 800-990-6258 Belle City WI 800-236-6258 Market Basket WI 800-824-5562 North Brewing Supply WI 800-483-7238 The Brew Place WI 800-847-6721 The Malt Shop WI 800-235-0026 The Brewing Station WV 800-550-0350 BrewCrafters 800-468-9678 catalog at brewcrafters.com BrewShack 800-646-2739 H.B. Discount Warehouse 800-491-6615 (just malt extract) U.S. Brewing Supply 800-728-2337 Your Keg Company 800-968-0534 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 95 12:47:14 MDT From: Norman Pyle <npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM> Subject: Dry Hopping David Shea wrote about dry-hopping, saying that in a couple of cases he found the hop flavor too sweet and citrus-like. Then: >for the proper SG reading. For the Ballard bitter I used 3/4 ounce >Willamette hops(finishing) and 3/4 ounce Willamette to dry hop (for a >1.048 SG beer). For the Redhook (1.054), I used one ounce of Tettnanger >(finishing) and an ounce Tettnanger to dry hop. My question is this: >which of these amounts should I reduce, the finishing hops or the dry I would reduce the dry hops and move those amounts into the kettle. Maybe to the point of all finishing and no dry hopping. You'll find less aroma, but it may also come closer to the beer you're trying to clone. I don't know about Redhook but I believe only a small percentage of micros are dry hopped. >hops. I know dryhopping isn't supposed to add flavor, but the change in >taste was so dramatic when I dryhopped, I am not sure if this is true. Not supposed to add flavor? Do you mean "not supposed to add bitterness"? I don't much distinguish between aroma and flavor, as the two are so tightly coupled, but in my mind, dry hopping adds flavor and aroma, in a big way. So much so that they can completely overdrive the beer so that all other aspects are lost or greatly hidden. I feel that finish hopping gives a much more refined aroma vs. dry hopping. OTOH, I do believe dry hopping has its place - I'm just not dry hopping my stouts and Wits anymore! :^/. In many cases, I've taken to large doses of finishing hops (and the use of a hop back) in place of dry hops. According to Glenn Tinseth, the hop compounds that end up in the beer are quite different when comparing finish hopping to dry hopping. There is more than one reason for this. Of course, the boiling temperatures cause some reactions to take place that wouldn't happen in cold wort or beer. Also, and I think this is important, dry hopping is usually done post-ferment, or at least post-primary-ferment. Many compounds are driven off during the active stages of fermentation. I have discussed with Glenn a method to create a hop tea in a sealed vessel (maybe a pressure cooker), to prevent aromatics from escaping. A very short boil and quick chill and then add to the _secondary_. I want to see if I can increase dramatically the effects of finish hopping without what I consider the drawbacks of dry hopping. Comments? Cheers, Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 95 16:29:28 -0600 From: wself at viking.emcmt.edu (Will Self) Subject: testing pH by titration? I would like to know of people's experience testing pH with a titration kit. The ones I have seen are for winemakers and express the acidity in terms of percent acid (no doubt a neanderthal way of measuring). Does anyone know how to convert from this percent acid to pH? Or, are there kits that give instructions written specifically in terms of pH? Do these kits work better than the papers? Will Self Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 95 21:07:52 From: aaron.banerjee at his.com Subject: By the way, the Titantic sinks tonight. (April 14-15, 1912) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 95 21:06:35 From: aaron.banerjee at his.com Subject: Cure for Drunkenes LONG MESSAGE ALERT I'm enclosing the text version of the cure for drunkeness. I've mailed the image of the patent to several people, but there has been some problem getting it to properly decode. If you'd like the image (.PCX) drop me a line at: aaron.banerjee at his.com - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- GEORGE M. HAY, OF AMERICUS, GEORGIA, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF AND HARVEY T. LITCHFIELD, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS. Letters Patent No. 85,659, dated January 5, 1869 ------------------- IMPROVED MEDICAL COMPOUND ------------------- To all whom it may concern: Be it known that I, George M. Hay, of Americus, in the county of Sumter, and state of Georgia, have invented a new and improved Antidote for Drunkeness; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the same. This invention consists in a combination of simple, common, and innocuous vegetable and animal substances, in the proportions described, whereby an effectual antidote to drunkenness is obtained, the use of which will not produce any injurious effects upon the system. The compound which I employ for the purpose specified, consists of the several ingredients, and in the respective proportions, as herein set forth, to wit: Calamus-root, one-half ounce; tincture gum-guiacum, one and one-half ounce; beef-gall, or its equivalent, one-half pint; eel-skin, one-half pint; sweet milk, one-fourth pint; decoction of cherry-tree bark, one-fourth pint; decoction of poke-root, one-fourth pint; cows' urine, one-half pint. These ingredients, having been thoroughly mixed, are added to one gallon of alcohol or pure spirits. The medicine, thus compunded, is to be taken, before meals, three times a day; at first, in doses of two or three tablespoonfuls; afterwards, a single tablespoonful will suffice. The eel-skin, codfish, and poke-root are not absolutely necessary to the medicine, but experience has proved that they increase its effectiveness, if used in the proportions set forth. It is not necessary, of course, that the precise proportions of the several ingredients, as above given, should always be rigidly adhered to. They may be slightly varied, without sensibly affecting the general properties of the compound. This medicine has been thoroughly tested in some of the most difficult cases of long-standing, habitual drunkenness that could be found anywhere in the country, and has resulted in an immediate and perfect cure, its effect being to destroy the appetite for intoxicating drinks, and to cause them to excite disgust and nausea whenever presented. What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-- The compound above described, substantially as and for the purpose specified. To the above specification of my improvement, I have set my hand, this 7th day of December, 1868. GEORGE M. HAY Witnesses: Solon O. Kemon, Lysander Hill. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 23:37:20 -0700 From: jeffpolo at eskimo.com (Jeff Wade) Subject: Fields Brewing Company! A visit to Eugene, Oregon could leave one wondering why so many great beers available for such a small town? Someone, i.e.... tie-dyes, is creating a demand for it and I just had to check it out! I must be honest with you by telling you that I was a resident and married in Eugene, Oregon only three years ago so you could say my feelings may be a little partial. Eugene is only one of many homes to Oregon's local Mcmenimins. Another favorite is Steelhead Brewery which is rumored, not confirmed by me, to have expanded it's brewery to Maui. But this trip was not about either of Eugene's breweries that I have just mentioned. This trip was destined for the newcomer known as Oregon Fields Brewing Company. With the weather sunny, clear, and at least 66f., I was in a most "quaffing" mood if you will. Enough of the introduction, let's get down to business. Krona Golden - Subtle, not much hop usage. Definitely the most fitting beer for the occasion ... DRINKING! Alexis Amber - Fruity nose, caramel tones. Not much complexity. Medium amber in color. Prisma Porter - This porter was true to the style. Very nicely done. Maris-Otter Organic Hefeweizen - Quite fitting for the area. This hefeweizen is made with 11% rye which adds nice compliment to it. Unfiltered and was served with a lemon wedge, which I promptly removed. Duck Tail IPA - Great beer for the hop heads! This IPA was true to the style and displayed its' hop usage proudly. Noel Oatmeal Stout - Labeled to be carbonated with "brew-gas" had me curious to all end. It turned out to be a blend of nitrogen(20%), and Co2. This was the tables favorite! Opaque in color, beautifully soft, 6% oatmeal, and most filling indeed. Demonstrated a true lace-work artist. Oregon Fields Brewing Company, although quite new, will definitely be a strong contender in the micro-brew market for Eugene, Oregon. I purchased a fancy one-liter bottle w/flip top to go. The food is outstanding, and the pub has a very bright quality about it. But heck, I did say I was partial to Eugene! Visit at: 13th and Oak, Eugene, Oregon. (503)341-6599. Internet: Jeffpolo at eskimo.com http://www.eskimo.com/~jeffpolo/jeff.htm Eskimo North, Bellevue, WA ************************** * OFFICIAL WWW PAGE OF * * HONEY BEE HAMS. * ************************** AT: WWW-http://www.eskimo.com/~jeffpolo/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 95 09:59:32 CDT From: Phil Miller <C616063 at MIZZOU1.missouri.edu> Subject: Is it legal in Missouri yet? A couple of weeks ago somebody posted a note about a bill in front of the MIssouri legislature that would make homebrewing legal in this state. Talking to the local homebrew shop owners, I hear that the bill has passed the house and went to the senate. Any news on the progress of this bill? phil Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 1995 09:58:38 +0000 From: "Lee C. Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Re: Herb beers/mead and NA beer Cheryl Ramsey asked about Herbs in Beer and Mead and NA Beer: Cheryl, herbs in Mead make it a Metheglin, common herbs are Ginger, Cloves, Cinnamon, Lemongrass and just about anything else that you fancy. Herb beers are probably the most diverse class in homebrewing. I've had everything from Allspice to Jabanero peppers in beer and everything in between. Moderation is the key. Too many Metheglins and spice beers go way overboard on them. The herbs may be added to the boil, in the fermenter or as a tea at bottling. All of these methods have advantages/disadvantages. As far as NA beer goes, I think it was Jack Schmidling that did some work on these. Perhaps he'll speak up with some of his findings. People have heated the finished beer to ~170 deg F in an effort to "boil off" the alcohol and have met with varying results. One method that has intrigued me is the use of a vacuum to lower the boiling point of the alcohol to room temperature. If there are any engineers out there who can help me with the pressure/temperature curve I would appreciate the help. In short, there doesn't seem to be a good, consistent way for a homebrewer to accomplish the removal of alcohol at home with standard equipment. - -- -Lee Bussy | The 4 Basic Foodgroups.... | leeb at southwind.net | Salt, Fat, Beer & Women! | Wichita, Kansas | http://www.southwind.net/~leeb | Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 1995 10:38:22 +0000 From: "Lee C. Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Re: Contest results Alan Folsom offers his views regarding competiton results: > As someone just getting up the nerve to submit my brews to contests, I > appreciate seeing results posted. Their value is greatly diminished, > though, when the number of entries per category, or the actual scores, > is not included. Alan, some organizers do and some don't. As one who doesn't, let me explain my feelings about this. First of all, these are my views and not the official policy of the AHA, HWBTA, BCJP or the Guild. When you are competing for a ribbon, you are competing against the other brewers there in your category. You can get a first place for a score of 26 or a third place with a score of 41. It depends on the competition. The score should not diminish the achievement and some styles are inherenty harder to brew. I feel that the ribbon should represent only the ranking in relation to the other beers on the category. Besides, it's none of anyone elses business what your beer scored. The scores are an indication of the overall quality of the beer and it's adherence to style guidelines. While in theory a 35 beer should be a 35 beer no matter what contest it is in... in practice, very hard classes such as American Pale Ale for instance with such an incredible turnout sometimes get scored a little different. A judge may taste an extremely good beer early on but not give it the 40 he though it was worth because it is the first beer of 16 and he wanted to leave himself room. No, this isn't a good way to do things but nonetheless it happens. Or you could have a passable beer that would have scored a 30 somewhere else in a catagory that has alot of bad beers. The judges are so impressed with the one good beer they finally get that they end up scoring it higher than they normally would have. These methods of scoring lead to nightmares for the organizer. People will invariably ask why their beer scored X here and X in that competition. Who knows.... I always tell the brewers to look at the comments and go from there. Another potential problem is someone seeing the results and seeing the winner of a class being scored say a 35. He gets his results back and his beer scored a 35 but no ribbon was awarded. What happened? Secon round judging. His beer scored a 35 in first round but did not go to the second round where the judging was harder. The second round scores get posted because they are the ones that replect the ribbon awards. Those are some of my ideas... I have other reasons for not posting scores. As far as posting the number of entries goes... well I don't have a problem with that and I probably will next time. On why some larger competition's results are not posted... well, I can only guess that the organizer has no Internet access. Not everyone dies you know ;). - -- -Lee Bussy | The 4 Basic Foodgroups.... | leeb at southwind.net | Salt, Fat, Beer & Women! | Wichita, Kansas | http://www.southwind.net/~leeb | Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 1995 11:50:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Axley <jaxley at seattleu.edu> Subject: Malting Barley One of my friends lives in Montana and has parents who grow barley on a farm and sell to various places including Anheiser Busch. He said he could hook me up with as much as I wanted, but the only problem is, how would I go about malting the barley so that I could use it to homebrew? The commercial malting process seems quite involved--is there any way to get the job done by oneself? He doesn't know exactly what type of barley it is. Any suggestions? !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jason Axley Homebrewing: e-mail: jaxley at seattleu.edu It's for what ales ya. WWW: http://www.seattleu.edu/~jaxley/ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 1995 14:52:31 -0400 (EDT) From: "Jeffrey W. Van Deusen" <VANDEUSEN001 at WCSUB.CTSTATEU.EDU> Subject: Minikeg carbonation I bottled and kegged my latest lager and it was stored in the basement at 50F for 1 month. The bottles showed little carbonation, so both minikegs and all the bottles were moved up to room temp (about 67F). Five days later the bottles are carbonated nicely, and the lager keeps a creamy head in the glass until the beer is finished. My question is this: Will the larger volume in the 5L kegs need longer at room temp. to carbonate sufficiently, or can I store them back in the basement (where the bottles have been returned to already)? TIA for any advice. Jeffrey Van Deusen Danbury, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 1995 09:44:47 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au> Subject: Who's who on HBD? Dear Friends, we've seen some discussion lately about the makeup of the readership and writership here on the digest. Some months back, a poster asked something like "how do I know who you all are", and suggested putting credentials or something, and this of course did not meet with general approval. However, I got to thinking that it would be handy if there were a file available to give very brief thumbnail bios of some of the more regular contributors so that newcomers could get that kind of info, and the recent series of posts has motivated me to put something together. However, I realize that doing such a thing poses many potential problems, so I'm asking for some input on whether people think this is worth doing or not. First, let me make it absolutely clear that I do not presume to judge who is most knowledgeable, talented, etc. Second, what I have in mind to produce is to be strictly factual, and not subjective. I have spent some time going through the index files for the HBDs from 1994 and 1995 to remind myself of who posts knowledgeably, rather than use any kind of automated post-counting approach. This is my only qualification for doing this--I have read every issue of the digest for the past 3.5 years, and many of those from before then, and have a pretty good idea who seems to be the posters of high signal/noise content. Currently, my list contains about 70 HBDers. The end product of this would be something that is about 3-4 lines per person; it would consist of name, age, location, non-brew occupation(s), how long a brewer, favorite styles to brew, and area(s) of frequent HBD contribution. Hence, the file would have to reside on the homebrew archive and on any web pages whose proprietors are willing, rather than be posted here--it would be way too long. If the attitude of respondents on this is favorable, my next step will be to post this list of names so that those on it can send me the brief info I'd need, and so that everyone could have a chance to tell me I've missed someone etc. So please, let me hear from you on this. Tell me if you think that such a file would be good to have around; or whether its very existence would be such a source of controversy that HBD content would plummet--this is what my biggest fear is, and if it looks like that will be the outcome, then this idea is going down the proverbial tube. Perhaps even the next step, that of posting my list of names, would do this, and if so it will all end right here. Please send me all commentary by private email. Thanks a lot, Dave in Sydney - -- "Cross your fingers and wait it out." ---A. J. deLange ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper at mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428 ....I'm not from here, I just live here.... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 1995 23:14:31 -0400 From: MClarke950 at aol.com Subject: Subject: Felinfoel > Whew. I haven't seen Felinfoel here in Seattle for a couple of years. I > think > they were bought out by Thames Brewing. (My reason for saying this is that > Thames started putting out Welsh ale around the time Felinfoel disapppeared > from the shelves. The packaging is also similiar.) Russell and Tim wrote in to set me straight. Thanks! Sorry about the mis-information. I am a little pissed that we don't get it anymore and I've *never* had it on tap :^( As to Thames, haven't tried it. I will now though. Seattle HBDer's, is Felinfoel still around and I'm just missing it? Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 95 00:02 CDT From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel) Subject: Plastic tubing/Heating enzymes/Tummy stout ===> Spencer Thomas warns about tubing problems: >I recently replaced all my plastic because of a possible low-level >infection problem. The new tubing I got from a local homebrew shop >had a "plastic" smell to it. I didn't think about it, figuring it'd >"wash out." > >Well...... Last night I had to dump 10 gallons of otherwise very nice >"plastic" beer down the drain. I use a counterflow chiller, and the >wort had apparently picked up the plastic flavor/smell from the >hot-side tubing. Clear plastic tubing (Tygon type) is made out of polyvinylchloride. It contains dioctyl phthalate (DOP) as a plasticizer. Perhaps you got tubing that had a high level of DOP in it. You might want to consider using polyethylene tubing especially for the hot side. PE tubing is that tubing that is milky white in color and is relatively stiff. It contains no plasticizer and will retain much more of its strength when hot. ===> Collin A Ames about exposing amylase to heat: >I don't know if adding the enzyme to the boil would be a good idea...any >chemists out there know what happens to enzymes in high heat? Heat will denature enzyme and destroy the enzymatic activity. Don't add it to you boil, you'll just be wasting your money. You can use it with your mash or add it to the fermenter as you did. ===> Darren Tyson asks about using antacids in the boil... >I basically followed Papazian's Toad Spit Stout recipe from TNCJOHB >with several modifications. I used 6.6 lb light, unhopped LME; 3/4 oz >crystal, 1/3 oz roasted barley, 1/3 oz black malt; 1 oz Northern >Brewer 6.6% aa, 1/4 oz Cascades both for 60 min, no finishing hops. >I didn't have any gypsum so I improvised and added four Tums E-X >tablets to the boil, each tablet contains 750 mg CaCO3. I cooled the >wort, transferred to carboy filled to 5 gal and pitched with about >750 mL starter of Irish ale yeast. (O.G. 1.058) > >My questions are: > >1) Any idea how adding Tums to the boil will affect the flavor? If I recall correctly, Tums have a minty flavor so don't be surprised if your stout has the taste of mint. Also, gypsum is calcium sulfate. The sulfate accentuates the hop bitterness causing it to be drier. The carbonate in Tums will not have this effect. >6) I think I crushed the specialty grains too much and got too much > powder; should I try to filter it out or should I not worry about it? I wouldn't worry if you had crushed the grains too much. But I would worry about the amount of the speciality grains you used. Did you really mean to say ounces of speciality grains? Toad Spit Stout uses 3/4 lb (pound) of crystal malt and 1/3 lb (pound) each of roasted barley and black patent malt. If you used fraction of oz (ounces) of these specialty grains as you stated, you'll have something that is closer to a brown ale than a stout. - -- Phil _____________________________________________________________ Philip Gravel Lisle, Illinois pgravel at mcs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 1995 10:15:59 -0800 From: Dean S Sundwark <ISDSS1 at acad2.alaska.edu> Subject: I took the list all winter and really enjoyed it. My summer schedual will keep me from reading it so please remove my name. CHEERS Dean Sundmark Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 1995 16:01:14 -0400 From: ae846 at detroit.freenet.org (Charles E. Deaton) Subject: TOO bitter! Grettings all. I made a barleywine 2 weeks ago found in Cats Meow III web. Seemed to be what I wanted to brew at the time, but the wife wasn't to excited about it. In turn I cut the ingredients in half to make a 2.5 gallon batch. All went well in my opion. Asof today airlock activity had slowed so I took a reading, still a little high. As normal I can't see dumping good beer down the sink, so I tasted it. TALK ABOUT BITTER. It was the bitterest I have ever tasted. TOO BITTER. I am hoping there is someway to reduce this, so I turned the best sorce for help I know of. If there is anyway to do this I would be much appreciative. BTW. Here is what I used for hops: 1.5 oz Chinook 12.5% 60 min. .25 oz Centennial 10.2% 5 min. .25 oz Centennial 10.2% secondary. Guest this may the wisdom gather part of my brewing hobby since this is only my third batch. TIA. Charles E. Deaton A.R.C. N8NNN - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 1995 11:03:13 +0200 (MET DST) From: Carl Etnier <Carl.Etnier at abc.se> Subject: buying beelegs Last week I described a type of "skimmed honey" that I buy inexpensively for beer and mead making, a honey which my beekeeper aquaintance sells much cheaper because it is >contaminated with bee legs, wax, and >other things he doesn't want in the honey he sells. Stephen Meredith then asked in private mail, >Do you end up with bee legs in your mead? Others could easily wonder the same thing. I ought have concluded the post by saying that one can make wonderful mead and beer with this honey--both are wonderfully clear and clean-tasting. It is such a joy to look at the clear golden mead, that I usually bottle it in clear bottles (and store it in the dark, to prevent photoreactions.) The contaminants wind up on the bottom of the primary or secondary, I imagine. No trace of wax or anything else that floats on the surface of the mead, either. Carl Etnier Trosa, Sweden Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 1995 15:51:48 -0400 (EDT) From: MMMST40 at vms.cis.pitt.edu Subject: Mash Questions Recently I have stared to do partial mash-extract batches. I will typically mash like 4-5 lbs of grain and then fill in with about 3 lbs of extract. Overall the results have been great and I am enjoying the flexibility and challenge of mixing different grains/adjuncts. However I have been getting alot more trub than Im used to and Im not sure about where its comming from. At first I figured that something was messed up in my lautering and chunks of something were getting through. I figured this because I can see the stuff before the boil. Then during the boil, the stuff gets stirred up and the wort becomes lighter in color. I usually recirculate quite alot of the runnoff though (and Im pretty damn proud of my home made lauter-tun rig), so Im not sure that the trub is comming from lautering mistakes. I usually do a protien rest at 122 for 30 min and one at 130-140 for another 10 min. I have been trying all kinds of elorabate hopbacks hoping that this would strain it out, but this does not seem to be helping much. Then the trub settles in the fermenter, and then it floats to the top right before the yeast really takes off , then it swirls around in big chunks for the crazy, active fermentation, and then these trub jibblets settle out into cottage cheese like layer. Once this happens I rack off into a secondary and the beer ends up great, but I feel that I am loosing a good six-pac worth of the beer due to the excess trub. So my questions are- Is this normal? Do protien rests increase or decrease the amount of protien trub? and Will elaborate hopbacks and sparging tequniques remove some of the trub? Thanks alot for any input, Mike (mmmst40 at vms.cis.pitt.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 1995 11:32:00 From: David.Divalerio at f165.n260.z1.fidonet.org (David Divalerio) Subject: Kegging commercial beer question I have recently begun kegging with a cornelius keg system. I want to try to dispense commercial beer. Does anyone know if there would be a problem with buying a keg of commercial beer and draining it into 3 cory kegs. I could then use the corny kegs in my fridge system. Would the beer lose its carbonation by being transfered from one keg to another. Could there be a poroblem with contamination? Has anyone tried this? Any insight would be appreciated. David DiValerio Orchard Park, NY] Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 95 9:31:33 PDT From: Michael Lloyd <mlloyd at cuix2.pscu.com> To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Subject: (fwd) Fruit puree Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing Path: cuix.pscu.com!cuix.pscu.com!not-for-mail From: mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com (Michael Lloyd) Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing Subject: Fruit puree Date: 16 Apr 1995 09:29:55 -0700 Organization: Computer Users Information Exchange Lines: 12 Message-ID: <3mrgm3$d00 at cuix2.pscu.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cuix2.pscu.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Has anyone ever thought of using pureed canned fruit in fruit beers? It occurred to me that juice pack canned fruit is already pasteurized by the canning process. Can one simply puree a few cans and add the puree to the secondary? This strikes me as a compromise between the flavor and method complexity of using fresh whole fruit versus using fruit extracts. I would be interested to hear of any comments or ideas in this regard. Michael G. Lloyd mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 95 9:32:11 PDT From: Michael Lloyd <mlloyd at cuix2.pscu.com> To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Subject: (fwd) Carapils malt and malto-dextrin Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing Path: cuix.pscu.com!cuix.pscu.com!not-for-mail From: mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com (Michael Lloyd) Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing Subject: Carapils malt and malto-dextrin Date: 16 Apr 1995 09:26:58 -0700 Organization: Computer Users Information Exchange Lines: 10 Message-ID: <3mrggi$cv5 at cuix2.pscu.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cuix2.pscu.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Does anyone have a conversion factor for carapils malt and malto-dextrin? For example, if I wish to replace four ounces of malto-dextrin with an equivalent amount of carapils malt, how much malt would I use? Please post your responses to the newsgroup. Thanks. Michael G. Lloyd mlloyd at cuix.pscu.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 95 12:22:40 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: RIMS cleaning Just a survey on how RIMS users clean their heater chamber. I took mine apart this weekend and now I wish I hadn't. There was brown fur on my heater element. A judicious brushing of heater and chamber followed by hot water rinse, followed by CTSP recirculation and then final hot water rinse seems to have done the trick, but I would hate to have to disassemble it all every brewing session. Anybody got any better ways of cleaning in place? dion Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 1995 17:13:04 -0400 From: DABLUES at aol.com Subject: Keg-bung preparation Hi all, In all 23 of my homebrew attempts I have been lucky enough not to have had a single bad batch by nasty critters or underfermentation, or any of the other horror stories floating around the net. I am having fun and having lot's of homebrew as a result. My wife and I own a hair salon so I keep homebrew on tap for my customers. It has gone over quite well. This brings me to the reason for my post.. A couple of months ago a customer came to me with a 1/4 barrell Golden Gate keg as a gift. Needless to say I was pleased as punch. After several weeks of hardcore research I even managed to find the connections for gas and beer lines. I love nothing more than a good challenge-especially when it involves a little detective work. The final step in all of this quest came about a couple of weeks ago when SABCO came through on the bungs for me. I now have a box of 100 of these things in my brewing room. I am building out of 1/2 barrels an all-grain system so I can make big enough batches of brew to go into a quarter-barrell. So here it is. I have no real instructions on the preparation, sanitation, and use of wooden bungs. Sure, logic dictates that putting it in water will swell it up to fit the hole in the side of the keg. I just am not sure about keeping the little nasties out of my beer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for listening, Quint Floyd College Station, TX "I'll have my usual, Woody... A trough of beer and a straw." Norm Peterson Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 1995 17:16:03 -0600 (MDT) From: Bob Sinnema <rjsinnem at acs.ucalgary.ca> Subject: ftp.stanford? Hi all! I've been lurking and learning for a couple of months; my brewing has improved significantly, thanks to the digest. Today, I ran into a non-brewing problem when I tried to access the archives at Stanford - -- the "homebrew" directory apparently no longer exists. Where did it go? Is there a new ftp or is something temporarily haywire at Stanford? ****************************************************************************** Bob Sinnema | Detendez-vous, ne vous inquietez pas, rjsinnem at acs.ucalgary.ca | Buvez une biere de menage! wwtl80a at prodigy.com | Beat Navy! . . .again! . . .and again! | (This could be habit forming!) ****************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 1995 21:41:11 -0400 From: jhewit at freenet.vcu.edu (Jeff Hewit) Subject: Drinking Age in England My family and I will be visiting London this summer. My two teen-aged sons, who have heard that there is no minimum drinking age in England, are viewing this, in the words of my fifteen year old, as an opportunity to "get wasted." I have pointed out that we really don't know if they will be able to drink, legally that is. (I have also pointed out the problems of being drunk and hungover on vacation, but I'm not sure if I'm getting through.) Anyway, does anyone know if there is a minimum age to buy and/or consume alcohol in England? Having this information ahead of time will help me plan on how I will need to deal with the two maniacs I call my sons. Thanks. - -- Jeff Hewit ****************************************************************************** Eat a live toad first thing in the morning and nothing worse will happen to you the rest of the day. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1708, 04/18/95