HOMEBREW Digest #1710 Thu 20 April 1995

Digest #1709 Digest #1711

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Graham Wheeler (Andy Walsh)
  Can't get good hop aroma (Scott Bukofsky)
  green vs. brown glass ("Alan R. Burdette")
  RIMS-icle batch ("SOA::S29033")
  archives, bottle caps (PatrickM50)
  RE:RIMS cleaning (Jim Busch)
  lemon grass (HOMEBRE973)
  Gout and lead (Gary Bell)
  Re: Will my beer be OK? (spencer)
  mnash, kettle handle, A-B (HOMEBRE973)
  Digital thermometer recommendation seconded (Jeff Renner)
  Kegging commercial beer/Mash-Lauter Tun Question (ChipShabazian)
  aroma/taste/flavor (Dan Pack)
  na beer ("Wallinger, W. A.")
  Dropping beer report (Jeff Renner)
  Great Maaple Brew-Off results available (Tom Keith)
  Molarity -> concentration -> conc. as CaCO3 (Bill Sutton)
  malt relationships (Nigel Townsend)
  Proper PH paper use / Handling crushed grains (Louis Gordon)
  Break in All-grain vs extract/re-kegging/typos (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com>
  Mysterious disappearances... (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com>
  flaked maize (wjgerth)
  beer talk (Jim Larsen)
  Re: Gelatin and Denaturing (harry)
  Digest Dropping? (Rich Larsen)
  What are steel-cut oats ? (Dave Adams)
  RIMS cleaning/kegging commercial beer ("SOA::S29033")

****************************************************************** * POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** ################################################################# # # YET ANOTHER NEW FEDERAL REGULATION: if you are UNSUBSCRIBING from the # digest, please make sure you send your request to the same service # provider that you sent your subscription request!!! I am now receiving # many unsubscribe requests that do not match any address on my mailing # list, and effective immediately I will be silently deleting such # requests. # ################################################################# Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 19:30:19 EDT From: awalsh at pop03.ca.us.ibm.net (Andy Walsh) Subject: Graham Wheeler Hello. This is a long post, so get ready with your <Page Dn> key if the topic bores you. Well this is a long overdue post on the thread a couple of months ago on the Graham Wheeler books, "Brew Your Own Real Ale at Home"(1) and "Home Brewing The Camra Guide"(2). I intended at the time to post my feelings on these books, but never had them handy to be able to make accurate reference to.. So now I have the books at hand, I am at the computer, and have half an hour to spare. So here goes. Firstly let me state from the outset that I would not have bothered posting this stuff were it not for the flames being directed at Mark Garetz for his "Using Hops", which when it comes down to it, possibly has some incorrect data on hop utilisation figures. If the knowledgable brewer corrects these figures for his own technique, equipment etc., it still contains a lot of useful information on hop varieties.. Around the same time of this Garetz bashing, people were quoting Wheeler, generally with respect. I do not recall anyone criticising Wheeler at all. Well that is about to change. My post could also have been avoided if the books did not make such statements as, "Graham Wheeler is the leading authority on home-brewing in the U.K." (back of (1)) and "It is intended to be the definitive reference work on the subject and bridge the gap between the amateur and professional brewer" (p1 (2)). These are pretty hefty claims, which must be backed up by solid content, if one is to remain free of criticism. Let's start with his discussion on hop utilisation. "it is best to assume the lowest probable utilisation efficiency of 20 per cent."..."EBU's only apply to bittering hops...Late hops do not contribute much bitterness to the wort due to the shorter dwell time in the copper." (pp46-47 (2)). In effect he gives zero utilisation for hops that are not boiled for an hour or more. His figure of 20% is similar to that of Garetz. If you make beer using Wheeler's numbers you will make a beer that is more bitter than one made using Garetz's (because of his zero utilisation for late hop additions). So if Garetz was criticised for having low utilisation data, why was nothing said about Wheeler, especially considering the claims made about himself in his books? To be fair, he does say that utilisation is impossible to accurately measure across all home-breweries as it is too dependent on a number of unknowns. You will still make very bitter beer with his given numbers, however. That is just the start of it. On grains... "We (the British) have the best brewing barley in the world... The barley grown in some other countries, such as America, and Australia, is usually six-rowed barley and high in complex nitrogenous substances such as protein. An excess of these will give rise to hazes being formed in the finished beer and considerably reduce shelf life.The malt made from such barley is well-modified, but is much higher in protein than is acceptable for brewing purposes. The brewers in these countries tend to dilute the nitrogen content of their beers by using very high quantities of cheap, locally available unmalted adjuncts such as rice grits, maize grits, or sorghum grits." (p87 (2)) Six row malt is commercially unavailable in Australia. Australian brewers use well modified low protein (10-12%), 2 row lager malt. The adjuncts he mentions are not used. Cane sugar forms 20% of fermentable sugars, on average, but this is used because it is CHEAP in Australia and has nothing to do with nitrogen levels. We grow tons of the stuff. This is just a clear case of misinformation. On 2 other occassions he lumps American and Australian malt together as being "inferior 6 row strain". The above passage is the most damning, however. His "dropping" system was well-discussed earlier, so I shall not go into that. However, it is well known that racking a beer off the yeast in mid-fermentation will result in high diacetyl levels, especially if it is aerated in the process. Diacetyl is produced when its precursors are expelled from the yeast cell and are oxidised by oxygen in the wort. Thus it is formed *only* when free oxygen is present, ie. at the start of fermentation,or when oxygen is introduced (eg. by dropping and aerating). Diacetyl is reduced by the yeast during the anaerobic stage: the more yeast there is, the more diacetyl is reduced. If one significantly reduces the yeast population before the yeast has had a chance to reduce the diacetyl, end result is more diacetyl. (BTW, I am merely quoting Miller here). All this means is that dropping the beer will increase diacetyl levels. The collective wisdom seems to generally be in agreement that diacetyl is acceptable in English ales but not in continental lager. Well isn't it interesting that his only comment he makes on diacetyl in his "definitive work on the subject" is on p167 (2), "It seems that a true lager is characterised by the taste and smell of diacetyl and dimethyl sulphide. Diacetyl is a fermentation byproduct and imparts a butterscotch flavour, whereas dimethyl sulphide is derived from the malt and provides an eggy flavour and aroma. Both flavours are considered to be faults in an ale, but not so in lagers." Clearly garbage. "eggy"? Perhaps he is thinking of H2S? Who knows? Diacetyl in lagers is desirable? Sigh... I won't go on about this book. On almost every page he makes some sort of strange comment, from "the best type of fermenting bin is the tall, narrow, cylindrical variety" to his woeful section on foreign beers (it seems added as an afterthought to his "reference work"). I stopped reading the other book when I read in the introduction, "his finished results are not hit-and-miss but come from years of patient work in his kitchen and on his computer" "some remarkable information has dribbled out (from the pro brewers), including details of such astonishingly large amounts of sugar being used in some beers that I will never again feel ashamed of pouring Tate & Lyle (a brand of English sugar) into my homebrew; with a bit of luck and a fair wind, it might end up tasting like Marston's Pedigree.... Pedigree, despite its impressive gravity, is dangerously subtle as a result of the high level of glucose" So what do you find when you look up his recipe for Marston's Pedigree? Yep, it's all malt. So he must have something going for him. Well yes, I liked all his information on old English brewing practices, and I also like his sense of humour. I find his technical knowledge deficient, and he really should have stuck simply to a book on English ales, without making such wild statements about himself. Miller makes no such claims, for example, who really has a much better stake to that title than Wheeler does. (ie. writing the "definitive reference work on the subject") I also feel for the numbers of English homebrewers with greater expertise than Wheeler (perhaps some are reading this now), who could also lay claim to being "the leading authority on home-brewing in the UK", but who do not have the clout of CAMRA behind them to publish their own book. So there, I'm done. And it took me 1 1/2 hours! I'll miss me dinner! ***************************** //// Andy Walsh from Sydney //// awalsh at ibm.net //// phone 61 2 369 5711 ***************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 08:19:26 -0400 (EDT) From: Scott Bukofsky <sjb8052 at minerva.cis.yale.edu> Subject: Can't get good hop aroma I've brewed a great number of extract batches recently, but for the life of me I cannot get a good hop aroma in my finished product. I have tried late additions and dry-hopping, but nothing seems to work. In my most recent batch, I used 3 oz of EKG late in the boil (1 oz each at 30, 15 and 5 minutes from the end), and dry-hopped with another oz of EKG for a week. The result: little hop aroma!! Does anyone have any ideas on the causes of this problem? I am careful to avoid aeration, I fill my bottles most of the way up to reduce headspace, etc. Still I am aroma-impaired. -Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 08:07:59 -0500 (EST) From: "Alan R. Burdette" <aburdett at indiana.edu> Subject: green vs. brown glass The recent talk about beer bottle glass has raised a question in my mind: Is there any meaningful difference between the light protection offered by a green vs. a brown glass bottle? Alan Burdette Bloomington, Indiana "An ihm Hopfen und Malz verloren" Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Apr 95 09:18:00 EST From: "SOA::S29033" <S29033%SOA.decnet at oscar.sea.sikorsky.com> Subject: RIMS-icle batch Johnmaj at aol.com writes: >> First a word of warning. My friend and I used the RIMS system, and were so >>pleased with it we tried to make a bigger one. We tried to make a 1 barrel >>system using a 106 quart cooler as our Mash\Lauter tun. We were using a 5500W >>240v water heater element with 120v for approximately 1375 watt output. At >>this power level it took 50 to 70 minutes to go from 122 to 158 degrees. Also >>at this size of batch the famed temperature variation of plus or minus .1 >>degree vanished. I agree completely John, especially if you followed the Morris type design. The Morris RIMS uses a 5500W, 220V element driven with 120V through a triac. Morris mentions that in this particular design will mash 8-10 gallon batches. Extrapolating a bit, if it takes around 1200 watts with a 10 gallon batch, you might need 5 times that (neglecting heat loss from the bigger mash tun) or 6000 Watts for the 50 gallon batch. Not only that but your flow rate will have to be higher because of the larger volume to prevent scortching and to distribute the heat evenly through recirculation. In short, "making the mash tun bigger does not a bigger RIMS make". Lance Stronk Sikorsky Aircraft LStronk at Sikorsky.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 09:34:17 -0400 From: PatrickM50 at aol.com Subject: archives, bottle caps CGEDEN at asks: <<<<<<<<<< Does this PBS of homebrewing archive its postings somewhere where we proles can read them? Or do you need the secret decoder ring to translate them?>>>>>>>>> Re-read (or read!) the info at the beginning of every HBD. It's that longish bit of text that you zip by on your way to the first posting. Jim asks Re: Bottle caps in the boil. Tried this myself on Saturday in my converted sankey 15.5 gal keg. Didn't really seem to even out the boil 'cuz the keg has a slightly rounded bottom and I think all 6 caps kinda slide down to the bottom instead of spreading out. I didn't notice anything different in the boiling action pre or post caps. HOWEVER! The caps make a very nice jingling sound that makes it very easy to *hear* how fast the brew is boiling if it's covered or when you want to adjust the flame. The caps seemed no worse for wear after a 75 minute boil. After all, I used to boil them anyway prior to using putting them onto bottles and never had a problem. Pat Maloney Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 10:16:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: RE:RIMS cleaning Dion asks: <Just a survey on how RIMS users clean their heater chamber. I took <mine apart this weekend and now I wish I hadn't. There was brown fur <on my heater element. A judicious brushing of heater and chamber <followed by hot water rinse, followed by CTSP recirculation and then <final hot water rinse seems to have done the trick, but I would hate <to have to disassemble it all every brewing session. Anybody got any <better ways of cleaning in place? Im not a RIMS user, but Id advise that you find some brewing grade caustic and use it at 2-4% concentration in 140-170F water. Do not boil this stuff, or allow it to climb above 190F. I'd run the caustics through the RIMS recirc. system for 10-20 minutes after each brew. Wear gloves and be safe, caustics can be dangerous, blah, blah, blah... Jim Busch busch at mews.gsfc.nasa.gov Colesville, Md. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 10:14:06 -0400 From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: lemon grass Has anyone used or tried to use fresh lemon grass in beer possible in place of bitter orange in Belgium White beer? Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 07:48:38 -0700 From: gbell at ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell) Subject: Gout and lead In HBD #1695, Nathan Dalleska writes: >In the 18th century, Klotz tells us, gout was endemic to Britain, apparently >due to the practice of storing port, sherry, madeira, etc. in lead crystal >containers. Gout is a hereditary arthritic disease in which uric acid accumulates in the blood causing damage to the joints. It has nothing to do with lead and, contrary to popular belief, has nothing to do with overindulgence in food or drink....thank God and pour me a beer! - -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Gary Bell "Laxo, non excrucio, poto cervisia domestica." Lake Elsinore, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 10:32:58 EDT From: spencer at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: Will my beer be OK? G. Garnett wrote about Re: Will my beer be OK? (HBD #1703): > > TASTE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > ... > I tasted my hydrometer sample (right before pitching the yeast) and > was a bit concerned that I'd overdone the bittering ... The bitter wort almost always is overhopped compared to the final product. If you've hopped in the kettle, there are still hop bits floating around that will settle out. Also, some portion of the iso-alpha acids are "taken out" by the yeast when it settles. In your case, it sounds like it was excessively overhopped, but you still ended up with good beer with some aging. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 12:00:46 -0400 From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: mnash, kettle handle, A-B Sorry if this gets posted twice but I got no confirmation. The thread on whether or not to mash specialty grains has been one of my concerns and brought up a year ago or so. To me it would seem that if you mashed crystal malts and carapils type malts in a full mash, the alpha (?)-amylase would attach the some of the larger dextrins and reduce the mouth-feel and perceived sweetness one was aiming for. I still do a full mash with crystal malts in the main mash because everyone one says to and have no empirical evidence to support a separate mash as yet because I am too lazy to do a controlled study. Maybe this is a good project for a home brew club. Well the potential disaster almost happened to me. I was attempting to boil 5 gallons of water to get ready for sparging and lifted my 5 yr. old 8 gallon canning pot by its handles onto the propane jet, and you guessed it, the handle jetisonned (i.e., fell off). Luckily the water was still cold and not wort!. So the net was right! Finally, I toured the Anheuser-Busch plant in ST. Louis. The size is impressive but most of the tour is bottling and beechwood aging since most of the usual touring place is closed until 1996 for renovation. However, during the tastings they had Mountain Elk Ale. I was quite impressed, it was a full bodied hoppy and malty brew. I asked about it, and they said they make it in New Hamster %^) at their specialty brewing plant from a recipe bought from a microbrewery. I told them it was much better than REd Wolf, Bud, Bud-ice, Michelob, etc. but they looked disdainful. By the way, the St. Louis Brewery had great cask conditioned ale! Andy Kligerman homebre973 at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 12:51:15 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Digital thermometer recommendation seconded In HBD 1698, Chris Barnhart <clbarnha at letterkenn-emh1.army.mil> said > I was busily scrounging around for an electronic thermometer for my > soon to be completed 3 barrel "Sabco type" RIMS system when I came > across the following thermometer:> > > Checktemp Digital Electronic Thermometer > Range -58 - 302F > 3.3F cable w/remote SS probe > Built in calibration test device (Alfa Aesar lists this, Techni-tool > lists a NIST calibration certificate) > Available in Celsius and Fahrenheit versions. > Price: $29.00 > Sounded like a pretty handy thermometer and the price is right. > I just ordered one from Techni-Tool out of PA (610-941-2400). Alfa > Aesar also carries the Checktemp but only sells to corporate accounts. > (No affiliation, blah, blah, blah) I ordered one and got it today (it was back ordered). I am impressed, and want to second Chris' recommendation. The unit itself is about the size of a pack of cards, with liquid crystal readout about 7/16" high, ~4-1/2" probe. It's made in Singapore by Hanna Instruments. I think retail brew shops should ask their wholesalers to carry this. I'm really looking forward to using this. Standard disclaimer. Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 10:33:00 PDT From: ChipShabazian <ChipS at 800sw.com> Subject: Kegging commercial beer/Mash-Lauter Tun Question David DiValerio asks about transferring beer from a Sankey keg to 3 Cornelius Kegs About a year ago, I threw a bachelor party for a good friend of mine, and invited the owners of Santa Rosa Brewing Company (Who I had the miraculous stroke of fate to grow up with). Needless to say, Beer was only drunk after all the Hard Liquor was gone. I was not going to waste what was left over, and successfully transferred the beer into Cornelius kegs. You will need to transfer the beer just like you were using a Counter Pressure bottle filler, and I had to vent the Cornelius keg every five or ten minutes or the flow would slow down to a trickle. Since I was using a closed system with a sanitized Cornelius keg, the wasn't much chance of contamination. I then dispensed the beer just like my own kegged home brew. Another option is to ask your local MicroBrewery if they will just sell you a Cornelius keg of their beer. The Micro's around here sell 3 and 5 gallon batches in Cornelius kegs, or will fill yours for you. Now my question: I am building an all grain system using Sankey kegs. I was thinking of using a cooler for the Mash/Lauter Tun and had some questions. I believe the 10 Gallon Gott coolers would give me a better grain bed for filtration than the standard rectangular coolers, but heard from my local store that some people have problems sparging 10 gallon batches in them because the grain bed is _too_ thick. What is the consensus from those of you out there using Gott coolers for 10 gallon batches. How about the rectangular coolers? What about comments on different types of filters, the two I am aware of are copper pipes with cuts every 1/4 inch, and screens (either commercial or homemade). Has anyone tried both different types of filters? Which one was more effective? Either post to the HBD or private E-Mail and I will summarize and post if anyone is interested. TIA Chip Shabazian chips at 800sw.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 10:58:50 -0700 From: danpack at grape-ape.che.caltech.edu (Dan Pack) Subject: aroma/taste/flavor David Shea writes: >hops. I know dryhopping isn't supposed to add flavor, but the change in >taste was so dramatic when I dryhopped, I am not sure if this is true. to which Norm Pyle responds: >Not supposed to add flavor? Do you mean "not supposed to add bitterness"? I >don't much distinguish between aroma and flavor, as the two are so tightly >coupled, but in my mind, dry hopping adds flavor and aroma, in a big way. So Absolutely right, Norm. I think I've seen this discussed in the digest before, but just a reminder. *Taste* is comprised of only four components: sweet, bitter, sour and salty. Your sense of *smell* or *aroma* is capable of distinguishing MANY different smells (thousands, I think). So, the perception of *flavor* is a combination of taste and aroma. Since your nose is sensitive to a much wider array of compounds than your tongue, anything which changes the aroma of your beer (dry-hopping) will have an impact on the flavor. Dan Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Apr 1995 10:52:10 PDT From: "Wallinger, W. A." <WAWA at chevron.com> Subject: na beer From: Wallinger, W. A. (Wade) To: OPEN ADDRESSING SERVI-OPENADDR Subject: na beer Date: 1995-04-18 12:39 Priority: - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ cheryl asks about na beer, and it inspired me to share my recent experiment with this 'style'. my father is no longer able to consume alcohol, and has become quite the partaker of na beer. as a rule, the americans are again way behind the europeans in terms of quality. i wanted to homebrew a beer that he could drink AND enjoy. so, i attempted to create a na beer from carapils (dextrine) malt. i made a 1-gallon batch as follows: 1/2# carapils (mashed by 'steeping' in 1 gallon of water as it heated) 1/2oz hallertau hops (3.1% alpha, 15 min boil) 1/2oz hallertau hops (3.1% alpha, 1 min boil) 1 packet of ale yeast (dry, forgot to note the brand) i let this sit for about two weeks in a gallon jug with an airlock at room temp (about 70f) - no airlock activity. it took two weeks to 'clear' enough to comfort me that it was time to bottle. i used 1 oz corn sugar in 1/2 cup water to prime. OG was 1.010, FG was 1.009 (well within the repeatability of the test, i believe). well, my father visited for easter, and rated the beer to be as good as the european versions he has come to enjoy. a homebrewing buddy of mine also enjoyed the taste, and wants to make a batch for himself for the summer afternoons when he needs to retain his 'composure'. the beer primed wonderfully. the only drawback is that the sediment does not become 'firm', and is difficult to keep from the glass when pouring from the bottle. any suggestions on improvements are welcome. Wade. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 14:47:34 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Dropping beer report In early February, Brian Gowland <B.Gowland at rhbnc.ac.uk> started a thread about "dropping" beer, a traditional English technique recommended by Wheeler and Protz (1993. Brew your own real ale at home. ISBN: 1-85249-113-2). I won't repeat the thread here, but the process involves racking off the actively fermenting beer *with* aeration halfway through the fermentation, leaving behind dirty head, trub, and sedimented yeast. Gillian Grafton said it made a great improvement in her beer, but she didn't aerate, not realizing that was part of the recommended process. Several more posters assured us it was. I have not seen any followup from anyone who has subsequently tried this rather surprising procedure. So I will report my experience. I brewed a 7.75 gallon all grain ordinary bitter (OG 1.037) and pitched the settled yeast from a 1 liter starter of YeastLab A03 London (Whiteshield) yeast. It had fine bubbles at 18 hours and kraeusen at 24 hrs. (64^F). I "dropped" it with some aeration at 44 hours, leaving behind lots of trub, plus the dirty head and sedimented yeast. There appeared to be plenty of suspended yeast, and the fermentation never faltered - it continued to push bubbles through the air lock. I reduced the temperature to 54^F at 11 days, kegged two days later. The yeast sediment was very clean. The beer is as nice a bitter as I have ever brewed. Very clean, better hop aroma and flavor than with similarily brewed, undropped beers, but these were not exact duplicates (I can never brew the same recipe twice). It was drinking very well 15 days after brewing. I then took ~1 cup slightly settled yeast slurry from this secondary and pitched it into a 5 gallon batch of 1.039 draft Guinness clone (based on Dave Sapsis' recipe). Because this fermented so quickly (high kraeusen at 16 hours), I dropped it 26 hours with more aeration this time (swirling from the siphon into a large funnel which dropped the beer into a carboy). This beer also continued active fermentation with no pause. I racked with gelatin at 7 days and kegged a week later, and was drinking it the next day (forced CO2). It tastes great, a real ringer for the real thing (thanks, Dave). Neither beer has any unusual diacetyl or esters, They both have a nice, fruity acidity (like a crisp apple or grape) that is appropriate for the styles. Strangely, the stout finished at 1.018, but it doesn't taste at all sweet, just nicely bodied, esp. for OG 1.039. Dave says that sometimes they just finish high. I suspect is is residual unfermentables from the flaked farley and fairly finely ground roast barley (British). I don't know what the FG of draft Guinness is. I should take the FG of the bitter, but I haven't. It certainly doesn't seem at all high. Perhaps as remarkable as anything else about these two beers is how smooth they both tasted with no age at all. Thanks to Brian for introducing this technique, and to the subsequent commentators. It will be SOP for me with British ales from here on. Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 15:06:57 -0500 From: nr706 at mcs.com (Tom Keith) Subject: Great Maaple Brew-Off results available To avoid wasting bandwidth: Results of the First Annual Great Maple Brew-Off (beers and other brews made with genuine maple syrup) are available at: http://www.mcs.com/~nr706/maple.html includes Best-of-show recipe and many other homebrew links. - ---------------------------+-----------------------------------------+ Tom Keith | Advertising, Promotion and New Product | Thomas Keith & Associates | Development for smaller companies and | 1016 Mulford Street | smaller divisions of large companies. | Evanston, IL 60202-3317 | Now! Multimedia and WWW development! | voice: 708-328-1282 +-----------------------------------------+ Fax: 708-328-2242 | check out our Web page | e-mail nr706 at mcs.com | http://www.mcs.com/~nr706/home.html | - ---------------------------+-----------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 95 17:28:42 EDT From: Bill Sutton <wrs at hpuerca.atl.hp.com> Subject: Molarity -> concentration -> conc. as CaCO3 Don't get too excited that this is a technical post, I've just had my week's worth of stupid pills and can't figure this out. I recently got Dr. Fix's _Principles of Brewing Science_ and got very confused by the first set of conversions. On (page 18? I'm at work, so I don't have it in front of me), Dr. Fix states that: [x] * GMW(x) * 10^3 = concentration of x in mg/l where [x] is molarity of x, GMW(x) is Gram Molecular Weight of x. In a following example, he shows that a .001 M solution of HCO3 would thus have a concentration of: .001 * 61 * 10^3 = 61 mg/l We want to express this as concentration of CaCO3, so we substitute the GMW of CaCO3 in the equation, giving: .001 * 100 * 10^3 = 100 mg/l as CaCO3 This is all fine and dandy and makes sense. However, the very next statement says that in general: [x] * 10^3 = concentration of x in mg/l as CaCO3 and this equation is used on a later page to show the concentration of OH- and H+ is negligible. BUT .... how can [x] * 10^3 = [x] * GMW(CaCO3) * 10^3? I've reread this a couple of times and I know I am forgetting some very stupid principle of chemistry, but I can't work it out. Please email me and save me from public humiliation ;-) Also (and perhaps this is later in the book, we'll see as soon as I get past this mental block), why are we expressing these in terms of CaCO3? Is it because CaCO3 is the precipitate we wish to create in order to remove the carbonates and their effects, and this number tells us how much CaCO3 we need to create in order to do this? I thought I remembered my chemistry, but I guess 15 years is longer than I thought. TIA, Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 10:42:16 +1000 From: nigelt at delm.tas.gov.au (Nigel Townsend) Subject: malt relationships I have ben primarily a user of liquid malt extracts (kit form). I now wish to experiment further, but do not wish to go the whole way with brewing from the grain, yet. However I wish to experiment further than possible with prepared liquid malt brew kits. I am therefore researching the options of using dried malt extract in lieu of liquid extract. I have a number of recipes designed for whole grain which I would like to try, using dried malt extract. Now, the question. Is there a reasonably accurate relationship between the amount needed of whole grain, liquid malt extract or dried malt extract to obtain a similar result? For example would you use 6 pounds weight (lbs) of say pale malt grains to get a similar result as 4 lbs of a liquid pale malt extract or as 3 lbs of dried pale malt extract? (the above figures are hypothetical!) Thanks for any advice. I suggest that responses are on the HBD as it could be useful to a number of people. nigelt at delm.tas.gov.au Nigel Townsend Tasmania, Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 19:51:49 -0500 (CDT) From: Louis Gordon <lougord at execpc.com> Subject: Proper PH paper use / Handling crushed grains I had 2 questions come up as I was brewing today. 1) I use PH paper. After I dip the paper into the liquid, it takes about 2 seconds for the liquid to satuate the paper and a color to settle in. However, if I then hold the paper for another 10 seconds, it slowly turns redder and redder indicating a higher PH number. Is the actual PH the initial reading. 2) I use a corona mill for cracking my grain. I always get a small amount of flour with the cracked grain from grain that was crushed. I then shake this grain in a mesh strainer over the garbage can to get rid of the very fine crush. My question is whether I am gaining anything by getting rid of this finely crushed grain. Louis Gordon Bloomington, MN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 22:52:13 +0000 From: "Patrick G. (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Break in All-grain vs extract/re-kegging/typos in HBD 1708... >> MMMST40 at vms.cis.pitt.edu asks about extra break from all-grain/mixed >>batches vs extract only... Keep in mind that an extract is just an all-grain batch that has been condensed/concentrated. The break material has been removed by the manufacturer. Due to this, I would expect partial/all-grain batches to always generate more break material than similar extract-only batches. >>David.Divalerio at f165.n260.z1.fidonet.org (David Divalerio) asks... >><Snip> Does anyone know if there would be a >>problem with buying a keg of commercial beer and draining it into 3 >>cory kegs. No problem at all. connect the oulet of your commie keg to the inlet of your cornie (one at a time, please!) , apply pressure (CO2 preferably) to the commie, and occasionally vent the cornie. This will transfer the beer in a manner similar to counter-pressure bottling - the same method I use when filtering my beer. I'd also recommend a CO2 purge of the receiving cornies prior to the transfer... >>Lee Bussy sez hgdtiuyj9yti.... Ouch! Somebody hit your fingers with a hammer? ;^) (I know: shame on me! Tee, hee!) "Drink all you want; I'll brew more..." Patrick G. (Pat) Babcock * "Let a good beer be the exclamation point at the pbabcock at oeonline.com * end of your day as every sentence requires usfmchql at ibmmail.com * proper punctuation." - PGB Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 23:04:29 +0000 From: "Patrick G. (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Mysterious disappearances... Also in HBD #1708: >> Bob Sinnema <rjsinnem at acs.ucalgary.ca> reports on the mysterious >> disappearance of everything in ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/... I noticed that, too. Also, that HBD's 1706 and 1707 never made it into my reader?!? In private e-mail, I was told the Sierra site also slipped into a virtual twilight zone (but, I'm told, has blipped back into cybereality). Anybody have a clue? These cyber-quakes are giving me apoplexy... Thank God for the archives at Spencer's Beer Page. Have to commend him for keeping it so up-to-date! If you ever 'lose' your digest, that's the place to look. (We now return you to your normally scheduled program...) Patrick G. (Pat) Babcock * "Let a good beer be the exclamation point at the pbabcock at oeonline.com * end of your day as every sentence requires usfmchql at ibmmail.com * proper punctuation." - PGB Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 95 07:44:09 EDT From: wjgerth at tacl.dnet.ge.com Subject: flaked maize I have got a bunch of recipies that call for flaked maize. I asked my local shop if they have any and they didn't even know what it was. I would like some help on either where I can buy some or some information on how to flake corn? TIA, Bill Gerth Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 07:17:44 -0500 (CDT) From: Jim Larsen <jal at gonix.gonix.com> Subject: beer talk Beer Talk with Burp and Belch the Bruit Brothers Burp: Hello, you're on Beer Talk. Caller: Hello. My name's Justin from Cleveland. I just want to say I love your show. You guys are great! Belch: Are you sure you have the right station? Caller: Yes, of course. Burp: Well, what's on your mind? Caller: I just made my first brew, a pale ale from Charlie Papazian's book, and he said to add 2 pounds of gypsum to the boil. Well, the homebrew supply store was out, so I ripped a sheet of dry wall out of the garage, ran it through my wife's KitchenAid flour mill, and dumped it in the fermenter. Did I ruin my beer? Belch: No, your beer should be fine, but you probably ruined the KitchenAid. Burp: I'm going to have to disagree with my brother on this one. Belch: Like that's something different . . . Burp: The KitchenAid is fine; your beer is shot. It will leave a calcium film on your fermenter, your racking hose, your bottles, your glass, your teeth, and your GI track. Caller: Thanks, guys. Belch: Good luck with your beer. Hello, you're on Beer Talk. Caller: Hi, this is Bob from New Jersey. I heard a rumor that you two are really Al Korzonas and Mark Garetz. Is this true? Burp: What? How could you make such a claim? Compared to us two, Al and Mark love and respect each other. Next caller. Hello, you're on Beer Talk. Caller: Hi, this is Dave from Salt Lake. Burp: Salt Lake? Is beer even legal in Salt Lake? Caller: Yes, but homebrewing isn't. Belch: Gosh, that's too bad. I guess you'll have to move. Do you have a brewing question? Caller: Ya, well hypothetically, if one wanted to brew a Hamm's clone, how would one go about it? Burp: A Hamm's clone? Are you out of your mind? Belch: Wait a minute here. Give poor Dave a break. He's surrounded by Mormons and hasn't yet learned what good beer is. Are you sure you want to brew this, Dave? Caller Ya, I'm sure, my girlfriend loves the stuff. Belch: OK, start with 3.3 pounds of bear piss extract, lots of water, and force carbonate to 5 volumes CO2. That's all it takes. Caller: Thanks a lot, guys. Belch: You're welcome. Next caller. Hello, you're on Beer Talk. Caller: Hi, this is Bob from New Jersey. I heard a rumor that you two are really Jack Schmidling and Jay Hersh. Is this true? Belch: Knock it off, Bob. Next caller. Hello, you're on Beer Talk. Caller: Hi this is Gina from St. Paul. Belch: Hi Gina. Let me guess, you spell your name with a J and two Es. Burp: No, dummy. It's G-I-N-A, just read the screen. Well, Gina, what can we do for you? Caller: I have a case of 1991 Barleywine that's been aging in my cellar at 53 degrees Fahrenheit. It started at 1.100 and finished at 1.035. I brewed it with 28 lbs M&F pale malt and 70 IBUs homegrown goldings. I pitched a pint of active slurry from a Traquair house culture a friend picked up from the brewery. Do you think this is still good, or should I pour it out? Belch: This batch sounds ruined. It's probably an environmental hazard at this point. I recommend packing it carefully with lots of padding and shipping it to me for proper disposal. Burp: Don't listen to this guy. Ship it to me. Belch: You stay out of this. It's my call. Burp: Hey, you have . . . <click> Belch: Gina? Gina? Wait come back, Gina! Well, what do you think of that? Burp: See ya later, I'm on my way to St. Paul. Belch: Wait for me. ______________________ Apologies to Tom and Ray Magliozzi Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 09:18:21 -0400 From: hbush at pppl.gov (harry) Subject: Re: Gelatin and Denaturing Just one more request from someone who always thought that denaturing was a euphemism for circumcision: Does all this organic chemistry change the common wisdom, or is the rule still not to boil the gelatin but to dissolve it into warm water instead? Harry .............................................. "A man's got to know his limitations" .............................................. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 08:24:23 -0500 From: rlarsen at squeaky.free.org (Rich Larsen) Subject: Digest Dropping? A question about the Digest. Why am I dropped every so often from the subscription list? I was dropped in January and again last week. => Rich <rlarsen at squeaky.free.org> ________________________________________________________________________ Rich Larsen, Midlothian, IL. Also on HomeBrew University (708) 705-7263 Spice is the varity of life. ________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 1995 09:44:52 -0400 (EDT) From: dadams at wellfleet.com (Dave Adams) Subject: What are steel-cut oats ? In the few Oatmeal Stout recipes that I have seen, they all mention 'steel-cut' oats. I am guessing these are different than your basic Quaker Oats, but am unsure. If they are different, where is a good place to look for these(in the Supermarket none of the Oats specify `steel-cut'). Thanks, Dave Adams Return to table of contents
Date: 19 Apr 95 10:55:00 EST From: "SOA::S29033" <S29033%SOA.decnet at oscar.sea.sikorsky.com> Subject: RIMS cleaning/kegging commercial beer Dion Hollenbeck asks how to clean a RIMS without taking the heater out of the tube and disconnecting hoses etc. I have not figured out a way yet. I just cleaned mine this weekend after mashing 2 batches and found the same thing - the brown fur on the heater element and who knows what on the inside of the heater tube. I don't think that the pump will provide enough flow to blast the fur off the element and the inside of the tube. Maybe there are some chemicals that can do the job but I have not experimented yet. I thought the best way would be to design the RIMS so that the heater tube and element can be serviced easily. My next RIMS design will incorporate this ease of disassembly - as it is now, I have to disconnect wires (sensor and power), hoses, and the heater tube mounting. David Divalerio asks about transferring commercial beer into corny kegs. I am sure it can be done. I transfer from corny keg to corny keg, esentially using the first keg as a secondary fermenter. I make sure the empty keg is clean (using bleach or some other solution). Then, I purge the air from the keg by putting CO2 into it empty - I say purged but actually I want a layer of CO2 between the beer and the air trapped above it. Since CO2 is heavier than air this happens automatically. I then start to transfer the beer by putting pressure on the full keg (with the liquid hoses connected) while slowly relieving pressure in the keg to be filled. This is necessary since both kegs will eventually reach the same pressure and flow will stop. Lance Stronk Sikorsky Aircraft, Stratford CT. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1710, 04/20/95