HOMEBREW Digest #1728 Thu 11 May 1995

Digest #1727 Digest #1729

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Bad Wade/Mouth Feel/Femme Fermentors/Who's what? (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com>
  Al brewpots II (Dan Pack)
  Gravity and mouthfeel (David Draper)
  Steeping Grains Question (Michael_Millstone-P26948)
  Re: Equipment swap (Chris Strickland)
  Aeration during lauter (Tom Baier)
  Bottling beer? (Nigel Townsend)
  Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #17... (TomF775202)
  California State Fair Homebrew Competition (Darren Hanson)
  microwaves and dry hops (Andy Walsh)
  Malt Modification (Michael Galloway)
  Competition Results? (WOLFF)
  hydrometers (Rotorex)
  EasyMasher ("Timothy P. Laatsch)
  propane burners (Charles Wettergreen)
  Open fermentation (IPPV)
  Brewfest '95 (Darren Hanson)
  SS hydrometer jar (Norman Pyle)
  RE:Smoking Grains (Tom_Tills.wbst214)
  Re:  Malt (RWaterfall)
  Re:  Wort Chillers (Danny Gilliam)
  Wheat Beer Color (Rafael C. Camarota / SJC Design Engineer )
  Re: malt flavor (BrewDaddy)
  dispensing chiller or jockey box ? (Eric Peters (919) 405-3675)
  Freezer temperature control (FranHogan)
  Wyeast 1338, Death by Mead, Ovens ("Harralson, Kirk")
  Re:  FG,OG, & mouthfeel ("Troy Howard" )
  Body and gravity (Eamonn McKernan)
  stuck fermentation FAQ (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Smoking grain (Ed Westemeier)
  Re: Little Wolf hops (richard frederick hand)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 16:31:48 +0000 From: "Patrick G. (Pat) Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Bad Wade/Mouth Feel/Femme Fermentors/Who's what? In HBD 1726.. >Wade Wallinger sez Eat at Joe's... Hey! I saw that! Off the digest! Off the digest! Burn him at the stake!!!! (Or soak him in water, and smoke him with coriander using the pages of the Guiness Book of World Records! That'll end his Good Times! What a sick kid... ...What was I saying? I forgot. Damn those aluminum pots!) >Larry Bristol continues to challenge us with what our mouths feel... Well, here's my $.02 (Why don't they put cents-keys on these stupid things?!?): I remember reading an article several years back on the subject of 'Engineering Food Appeal'. Addressed in this article were such things as appearance, and mouth feel. (The most memorable aspect of the article was a discussion about 'non-nutritive food varnishes'. Yuk!) This article also bemoaned the elusiveness of some 'measure' of mouthfeel. Personally, I don't think it is as simple as just observing gravities to determine the 'thickness' of feel. Just as flavors are made up of taste AND aroma, I believe mouth-feel to be made of of several components. Not simply a measure of the density (how thick). Different compounds in the beer contribute different sensations to the palate, tongue, gums, cheeks, etc. all contributing to the 'feel'. Sugars, proteins, alcohols, etc. Reactions within the mouth between beer compounds and saliva might also contribute - a high gravity compound may react with saliva in your mouth creating a light feel, for example (supposition on my part). So I guess it comes down to this: If two beers start with different OGs, and end with the same FGs - or vice versa - one wouldn't necessarily have 'more or less mouthfeel' than the other, but they'd most likely 'feel' different. This feeling being more dependant on the chemical make-up (_recipe_) than the final gravity. >On the subject of brewing women, or, er, women brewers... Kit Anderson brews. Bettina Baber (Prodigy brew forum host) brews. Mary Samuels CompuServe Bacchus beer forum host) brews. My wife doesn't brew. In fact, she doesn't like the smell or the boiling wort. Because of this aversion, she allowed my to by a 3-kettle pico system with pumps, burners, (hooo hoooo!) ALL THE GOODIES!!! AIN'T LIFE GRAND?!? > Well, Dave, I admit it. You were right... My 'non-prestigious who's who' suggestion was met with stoney silence. May we all contnue on in happy anonymity. (And may the whoswho.faq file NOT become the subject of one of 'those threads'!) Well, I've babbled on long enough... Patrick (Pat) G. Babcock | "Drink all you want - I'll brew more!" President, Brew-Master | and Chief Taste-Tester | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point Drinkur Purdee pico Brewery | at the end of your day as every sentence pbabcock at oeonline.com | requires proper punctuation." -PGB Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 14:29:03 -0700 From: danpack at grape-ape.che.caltech.edu (Dan Pack) Subject: Al brewpots II In HBD #1726 Rob Emenecker asked about putting a valve in an Al brewpot which reminded me of a question I wanted to ask. I've found a good source of 32 qt Al pots and was thinking of buying one for my boiling kettle (I currently do partial boils in a 22 qt pot). But living in an apartment I'm limited to my stovetop so my question is is it practical to boil 6-7 gal of wort using an electric stove? How long is it going to take to reach boil and am I going to be able to sustain a rolling boil for 60-90 min? What are the experiences of you stove-top brewers. I'm also planning on converting my old kettle to a mash/lauter tun so, Rob, I'd appreciate it if you could post a summary to your question. Thanks, Dan Pack Pasadena, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 08:05:25 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au> Subject: Gravity and mouthfeel Dear Friends, in HBD 1726 Larry Bristol ponders, Zen-like, the various relationships between OG, FG, and thickness/mouthfeel, etc., and wonders if these things are quantifiable. I'd say not. First, it is very difficult to predict FG for every case, although many brewers can through experience and repeating a series of similar batches--especially commercial breweries who make the same things over and over. But even they frequently resort to blending batches for ultimate commercial release because things don't always work out the same. Second, the amount of alcohol has a strong effect on the mouthfeel of a batch. Using Larry's two examples: two beers with the same FG of 1010, but different OGs of 1040 and 1060, will have very different mouthfeel, even if they are ostensibly very similar types of beer (say pale ale). The one that started at 1060 will have its mouthfeel decreased owing to the larger amount of alcohol (i.e. it will be thinner-feeling); however, I seem to recall that it is written somewhere that alcohol enhances the perception of sweetness, and that this may actually enhance the mouthfeel, but that seems counterintuitive to me and does not fit with my experience. The second example, with two beers of the same OG but one finishing at 1010 and the other at 1015, is more straightforward. I think it is nearly a given (again all else being nearly equal) that the 1015 beer will have more mouthfeel, but most of this would be due to increased sweetness. That difference in sweetness would be readily discernible, but different tasters might characterize it in different ways. Which brings me to my final point: this issue is so highly subjective that trying to quantify it may be, although brave and Zen-like, doomed to failure. What one person identifies as "body" another might call "sweetness", not because one is a better taster than the other, but how and what different people can taste has such a wide range. The range of subtleties available in finished beer is enormous. How many of us have tried to duplicate a recipe that we really liked, doing everything exactly the same so far as we could manage, and have the result be subtly different? Let us know, Larry, if you work this out, so we can award you the Nobel Prize in Brewing! PS Wade W.'s post on subtle ads reminds me of a line of Steven Wright's: "I saw a subliminal advertising executive today...but only for a second." Cheers, Dave in Sydney - -- "Life is short; grain is cheap." ---Rich Lenihan ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper at mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428 ....I'm not from here, I just live here.... Return to table of contents
Date: 9 May 95 15:09:00 -0500 From: Michael_Millstone-P26948 at email.mot.com Subject: Steeping Grains Question All, I am moving up to partial grain brewing and have a question when a recipe calls for "steeping" the specialty grains. I have been led to believe that one adds the grains to cold water, heat to boiling, then strain out as much grains as possible, then add your malts, hops, and adjuncts. Now, others are telling me add the grains, then bring the temperature up to ??? (I've heard 150, 155, 170) degrees and remove before boiling. What is the correct procedure and what might be the implications or consequences of doing one versus the other. TIA Mike - Brewing and drinkin' in the Valley of the Sun Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 18:46:58 -0400 From: cstrick at iu.net (Chris Strickland) Subject: Re: Equipment swap > At the risk of offending the Homebrew supply store owners on the > net, is there a way of having a used equipment list? It could > also serve as a forum for people looking for a specific item. Hmmm! Couldn't something like this be put on the ftp server where the archives of the posts are stored? - -------------- Chris Strickland cstrick at iu.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 09 May 1995 16:53:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Baier <BAIER_T at SALT.PLU.EDU> Subject: Aeration during lauter I need help. All my beers seem to have a consistently high level of what I perceive as DMS. While I don't always find this objectionable, I have become frustrated, and feel that I must have a procedural flaw. 1. While lautering, I let my sweet wort splash mightily down into a bucket (as the brewkettle is currently holding the sparge liquor). Is this aeration causing big-time HSA? Do I just *think* that wet cardboard really tastes like canned corn? Seems like my 75-90 minute boils would cure ills introduced at this stage. 2. I use corny kegs for fermenters, and I endeavor to be meticulous about sanitation. I use iodophor, let it air *almost completely* dry, and don't rinse. Problem anyone? Did we ever reach closure about the effects of fermenter geometry on flavor profile? 3. I do almost exclusively classic British styles, with a single infusion at 150-154F. Is it possible/likely that my thermometer is so far off that I am really mashing at 160F+ and getting *tons* of unfermentables as a result? FG is usually in the 1.010-1.015 range for pales. I use a maltmill(tm) and zapap system, but my yields have always been below expectation (20-25 p/g/p). Any public or private problem-solving help gratefully accepted. * Tom Baier - Tacoma, WA - baier_t at salt.plu.edu * Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 11:44:28 +1000 From: nigelt at delm.tas.gov.au (Nigel Townsend) Subject: Bottling beer? P.Hannah at cqu.edu.au (Paul Hannah)in Homebrew Digest #1726 (May 09, 1995) asks about bottling beer. If you must do it (I prefer Kegs, even simple plastic ones), then it *IS* much faster to use a second container to prime. A second fermenter can be used (I use another plastic fermenter, without a problem so far [reaching for some wood to touch!]), but I assume that any large enough sterile container would do. It should be food grade and and possibly not metal to avoid metallic flavours. This may not be an issue as it will only be in there for about 30 -60 minutes, will be cold etc. Earlier discussions on HBD suggested mixing by pouring the priming syrup into the base of the container and then using the siphon pipe to mix as well as fill the container. This is done by placing sufficient pipe flat at the bottom of the container to form a circular motion of the liquid as it enters the container. This circular motion swirls up through the syrup into the beer and provides a pretty good mix. I lay piping flat for about 2/3 of the base to achieve this effect. I understand that there is advantage in reducing oxidation of the liquid at this time. This can occur from excessive splashing of the liquid as it enters the container. Laying the pipe flat will assist with this also. Some people have equipent that allows them to lay a blanket of carbon dioxide above the syrup. This is meant to reduce oxidation too. As you say, mix the sugar, DME or whatever with boiling water to dissove and also assist with reducing the number of bugs that will be introduced. I let this cool in my glass jug with a lid over it (usually clingfilm) and place in the container when warm, not too hot. I think that if I put it in too hot, it will impart plasticy flavours to the beer. This process takes away the problem of trying to emulate an octopus whilst struggling to keep yeast and similar muck out of the siphon tube, keeping the primary fermenter at an angle at the bottom to maximise usable beer, and at the same time filling the bottle between your knees! It also saves the hassle (particularly with DME) of getting the priming sugar into the bottle through the funnel that keeps blocking from the moisture in the bottles atmosphere. Blowing through the funnel tends to increase potential infection as will wire coat hangers. Your concern over buying a second caboy may be misfounded. You could try a plastic fermenter instead, or any container big enough and meeting the criteria specified above. My father has brewed wine and beer in plastic dustbins (garbage containers?) for years and simply avoids the dark coloured ones (not to be recommended unless they are food grade). I have managed to get (free) some large plastic containers from the local bakers, used to supply the fruit gunk they put in with the artificial cream in the cakes. Someone with more "knowledge than I, may wish to comment on the probability of a metal container affecting flavour at this stage, and for a short time (say 1 hour). The above is a simplified recommendation and I hope it helps. All the above comments are the results of listening (lurking?) to this Digest so thanks should be given to all those unknown brewers who I have not acknowledged (sorry) who have improved my brewing immensely. Thank you! Any errors in the above are mine and should be corrected (gently please!). They are through ignorance (lack of understanding) of the technical processes, rather than a desire to ignite yet another flame war. Nigel Townsend Tasmania, Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 23:19:53 -0400 From: TomF775202 at aol.com Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #17... >Most homebrewers worry too much. Now don't get me wrong. I Homebrew too, I just think that alot of us are a little to anal about our sanitation. I can be too. Also remember a brewery is not a large sterile facility, it is a plant, a factory if you will. Return to table of contents
Date: 10 May 95 02:16:19 -0700 From: Darren.Hanson at otter.limits.gigo.com (Darren Hanson) Subject: California State Fair Homebrew Competition First off, for full details and a copy of the Homebrew/Homewine handbook, please write to: California State Fair Attn: Gerald Cresci <== IMPORTANT! PO Box 15649 Sacramento, CA 95852 or call 916/263-3010. Please remember, you must be a legal resident of the State of CA to enter. Competitions of interest to this echo: I Homemade Wine (submit 1-750ml bottle per entry) Submissions must be received by June 9, 1995. Division 1 - White Wines (Grape) 1.1 Chenin Blanc - dry 1.2 White Riesling - dry 1.3 Sauvignon Blanc - dry 1.4 Chardonnay - dry 1.5 Semillon - dry 1.6 Symphony - dry 1.7 Gewurtztraminer - dry 1.8 Misc - white - dry 1.9 Misc - white - sweet Division 2 - Red Wines (Grape) 2.1 Cabernet Sauvignon - dry 2.2 Gamay - dry 2.3 Petite Sirah - dry 2.4 Zinfandel - dry 2.5 Pinot Noir - dry 2.6 Merlot - dry 2.7 Carignane - dry 2.8 Barbera - dry 2.9 Carmine - dry 2.10 Cabernet Franc - dry 2.11 Misc - red - dry 2.12 Misc - red - sweet Division 3 - Rose Wines/Blanc de Noir (Grape) 3.1 Rose' - specify grape 3.2 Blanc de Noir 3.3 White Zinfandel Division 4 - Sparkling Wines (Grape and Fruit) 4.1 Wine Grape 4.2 Fruit Division 5 - Fruit Exotic 5.1 Seed Fruit 5.2 Stone Fruit 5.3 Berry 5.4 Citrus 5.5 Flowers 5.6 Vegetable 5.7 Other - Specify Division 6 - Dessert Wines 6.1 All wines with 3% or more residual sugar 6.2 All wines with more than 14% alcohol Division 7 - Vinegar 7.1 White Wine Vinegars made from grapes 7.2 Red Wine Vinegars made from grapes 7.3 Vinegars made from fruit other than grapes 7.4 Vinegars made from other materials II Homemade Wine Label Submissions must be received by June 7, 1995. III Homebrew (Submit 3-12 oz bottles per entry) Submissions must be receive by July 22, 1995. American Lager Continental Lager 1. Helles 2. Pilsner 3. Export Light Ale 1. North American 2. Cream Ale 3. American Wheat Pale Ale 1. English Bitter 2. CA Microbrewery Pale Ale 3. Indian Pale Ale Continental Wheat Beer 1. Beliner Weisse 2. Weizen 3. Dunkle Weissen Mixed Style 1. Steam Beer (TM - Anchor Brewing Company) 2. Kolsch 3. Dusseldorf Altbier Dark Lager 1. Continental Dark Lager 2. Munich 3. Vienna 4. Oktoberfest/Marzen 5. American-Style Dark Lager Brown Ale 1. English Brown 2. English Mild 3. American Bock 1. Helles Bock 2. Maibock 3. Bock 4. Dopplebock 5. Weizen Bock Porter Stout 1. Dry Stout 2. Sweet Stout 3. Foreign Style Stout Stong Ales 1. Strong Scotch Ale 2. Barley Wine (Exception: can submit 3-6oz bottles) 3. Imperial Stout Belgian Ales 1. Trappist Ale 2. Belgian Ale 3. Belgian White 4. Lambic (includes fruit lambics) 5. Flanders Brown Specialty Beers By specialty ingreident(s) including ciders and sake Fruit Beers By fruit & other specialty inredient(s), no fruit lambics Meads 1. Sparkling Traditional Mead 2. Still Traditional Mead 3. Sparkling Flavored Mead 4. Still Flavored Mead IV Homebrew Label Submissions must be received by July 22, 1995. More details and entry forms/labels are included in in the "Homebrew/Homewine Handbook" available from the CA State Fair commission. Some typos in original document corrected during typing. No guarantees for accuracy are made for either this doccument or the preliminary copy of the "Homebrew/Homewine Handbook" are made by either myself or the CA State Fair. - -- __ \/ dj Darren J. Hanson PO Box 883 djhanson at quiknet.com North Highlands, CA darren.hanson at otter.limits.gigo.com 95660-0883 B4/5 f+ t w++ c++d g++ k++ s- p Web Page Coming Soon! - -- : Fidonet: Darren Hanson 1:203/172 .. speaking for only myself. : Internet: Darren.Hanson at otter.limits.gigo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 19:27:01 EDT From: awalsh at pop03.ca.us.ibm.net (Andy Walsh) Subject: microwaves and dry hops Hello, Just a note on microwave sanitising. It sounds like nobody is about to do this since it has been discredited, but whatever you do, do *not* microwave your dryhops for sanitation purposes. I did this once about a year ago and got a really bitter, astringent character in the beer that was not there before I did this stupid thing. The microwaves must have superheated the resident water in the hops (pellets) and isomerised the acids or something. Boy that beer was bad. The funny thing is that I didn't realise for a long time what I had done to cause this! Some strange mental block... Andy. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 04:54:13 -0400 From: Michael Galloway <mgx at ornl.gov> Subject: Malt Modification I'd like to go a little further along than just Klages malt. Is there not a table around somewhere of malt/modification/nitrogen level/etc? My feeble memory seems to recall seeing such a table in either Brewing Techniques or Zymurgy. Are the Europeon/Belgian malts really not fully modified? It would seem that malting fully modified malt would be standard practice now. michael galloway oak ridge national lab - --------------------------- >Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 09:33:59 -0400 (EDT) >From: "Jerry Cunningham (ESMPD)" <gcunning at Census.GOV> >Subject: Klages malt >Is Klages malt fully modified? Do I need to do a protein rest with this malt, >if I'm not really concerned about chill haze? I've heard some people say that >it's not fully modified and you need to do a protein rest, while others just >do a single-step infusion. >Thanks, >Jerry Cunningham >Annapolis, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 8:22:46 -0400 (EDT) From: WOLFF at eclus.bwi.wec.com Subject: Competition Results? If anyone has the results from the US Open (Carolina Brewmasters-29 April 1995) or the Sunshine (Florida May 6 & 7) competitions would you please post them. Thanks. BW Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 08:26:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Rotorex <rotorex at clark.net> Subject: hydrometers I am interested in purchasing 3 hydrometers. High O.G.(barely wines), Normal range O.G.(pale ales), and F.G. I'd like the hydrometers to measure in Plato and have a built in thermometer, so you can adjust for temp. Anyone know of a supplier? Pete Cooke Frederick, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 09:22:04 -0400 (EDT) From: "Timothy P. Laatsch <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu>" <LAATSCH at kbs.msu.edu> Subject: EasyMasher Hi All, I've been considering purchasing a SABCO converted keg with the specially modified EasyMasher (specifically for the SABCO) and using this for my mash- and lauter-tuns. The one drawback I see would be stirring the mash effectively without damaging the EasyMasher. The other concern is weight---I frequently rely on direct heating the mash on the stovetop to maintain exact temperatures---Will this thing crush my stove, thereby inciting a violent outburst from my wife? Could someone with experience using such a setup please write and squelch my apprehension? This would be the first piece of equipment on my quest for the ultimate 3-tiered system and it's rather expensive----I can't afford to waste any money right now. Any and all advice is appreciated. Bones *+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++* | Timothy Laatsch |email: laatsch at kbs.msu.edu | All-grain | | Graduate Student |phone: 616-671-2329 | & | | Michigan State University |fax: 616-671-2351 | Mostly | | Kalamazoo, MI (Bell's Country)| | Insane | | | | "...like cops who hide holsters beneath their lapels, she had dangerous | | things, but she downplayed them well...." ---Walt Mink | *+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++* Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 08:26 CDT From: chuckmw at mcs.com (Charles Wettergreen) Subject: propane burners To: homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com In HBD #xxxx, Norm Pyle quoted John Palmer: HH> >The Superb gas burner quotes only 35KBTU compared to the 100+KBTU of the HH> >Cajun >Cooker types, but it heats 12 gallons without any problems and I HH> have done 5 Norm also sung the praises of 35K burners: HH> I can attest to this. I use two different water heater elements, which are HH> purported to be about 35K BTU, and they work fine. I have no trouble I've tried the cajun cooker rocket engines, they heated fast and left *lots* of soot on the bottom of my boil kettle. I use a Brinkmans. It is a tripod about 3 feet high and has a large heavy duty cast iron commercial burner suspended under the iron ring upon which the kettle sits. There is an air/gas mixture slide and it comes with a needle valve regulator for extremely fine flame tuning. It is rated at 160K. The only problem was, I used to use *lots* of propane. The burner element, which probably weighs 5 pounds, is adjustable; you can move it closer or farther away from the bottom of the pot. I found that by moving the burner to the adjustment setting closest to the bottom of the kettle, I more than halved my propane use, and the time required to bring liquid to a boil shortened considerably. Chuck /*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/* Chuck Wettergreen One beer at a sitting is OK. Two beers, maybe. Chuckmw at mcs.com But anything beyond that number goes over the Geneva, Illinois line of recreational drinking. Ann Landers /*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/**/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/**/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/* * RM 1.3 00946 * Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 9:41:56 -0400 (EDT) From: IPPV at gic.GI.COM Subject: Open fermentation There was a thread going (#1720 etc) about open fermentation, to cover or not to cover. I thought I'd cast my vote to cover. Seems my gear was down the basement and someone knocked the lid off my plastic fermenter. I was down the basement doing other stuff and noticed a somewhat foul but somewhat sweet odor. There, in the fermenter, was a dead bat. Nice looking little guy; starting to mummify. Seems like a strong argument against uncovered open-fermentation (unless you're looking for a *very* interesting lambic ;-) I thought I'd make labels for the next batch I brew as "Bat's in the Belfry". I sterilized the fermenter, but should I throw it out ... aaack << this message has been terminated by HBD robot >> Return to table of contents
Date: 10 May 95 07:52:25 -0700 From: Darren.Hanson at otter.limits.gigo.com (Darren Hanson) Subject: Brewfest '95 GREAT BEER. GOOD FOOD. LIVE MUSIC. Student Buddy Program & Spectrum Events Presents: Brewfest '95 Saturday, May 20, 1995, 1:00pm - 6:00pm Gold River, California, Regents Park, 11344 Coloma Road (More shade tents than ever!) Featuring: Rhythm Vandals, Who Dat Blues Band, Food, Games, Dancing, and "The Dating Game." And more importantly, featuring the skill and craft of: American River Brewing Mystic Anchor Brewing Nevada City Brewing Co. Anderson Valley Brewing North Coast Brewing Boston Beer Co. Pacific Hop Exchange Bridgeport Brewing Pete's Brewing Devil Mountain Bay Portland Brewery Etna Brewing Red Hook Alre Brewery Full Sail Rhinochaser Golden Pacific Brewing Riverside Brewery Grants Ales River City Brewing Co. Gordon Biersch Rogue Brewery Hangtown Brewing Rubicon Brewing Co. Heckler San Rafael Hogshead Brew Pub St. Stan's Brewing Co. Humbolt Brewing Santa Rosa Brewing Mad River Brewing Sierra Nevada Brewery Mendocino Brewing Sudwerk Murphy's Creek Weinhards Price: $10.00 in advance / $13.50 at the door Includes 3 beer tasting tokens (additional tokens $.50 ea) Commemorative beer mug, program, and fabulous raffle prizes. Tickets available at; Brewfes offices (916-856-7044), The Beat, America Live!, Sudwerk, and other locations near you. (My appologies to those of you not in the area. No guarantees of accuracy are made. All typos are probably mine.) (The Student Buddy Program is a wonderful organisation that matches disadvantaged children with productive members of society and works to encourage the kids to stay in school. This program has a remarkable track record for effectiveness, so if you're going to be in the area, PLEASE, give some serious thought to coming out. You'll get your free mug, be able to sample some truely special beers, and help the next generation get off on the right foot all for only $10!) __ \/ dj - -- : Fidonet: Darren Hanson 1:203/172 .. speaking for only myself. : Internet: Darren.Hanson at otter.limits.gigo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 9:00:01 MDT From: Norman Pyle <npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM> Subject: SS hydrometer jar Kirk Fleming wrote, about recycling a keg: >Cut the top out and make a fermenter if you need one for 10 gal. The dip >tube can be cut off to make a gorgeous, unbreakable hydrometer jar by >covering one end with a rubber cap or plugging with a solid rubber stopper. >They cool quickly under the faucet, and never break. Um, Kirk are you Superman in disguise? I'd need X-ray vision to read my hydrometer through a SS tube. Must be nice to hang out with that Lois Lane babe and make beer... Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 08:08:58 PDT From: Tom_Tills.wbst214 at xerox.com Subject: RE:Smoking Grains I prefer to make beer with my grains, then drink it. But if you want to smoke 'em I guess thats O.K. too ;>) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 12:08:11 -0400 From: RWaterfall at aol.com Subject: Re: Malt bvaughn at netcom.com said: "After doing 6 extract and one all grain I have yet been able to get a good malty flavor in my brews. It was suggested that I bump up the adjuncts. Maybe 2# crystal malt and 2# cara-pils." Try decoction mashing. I assume your one all-grain was an infusion mash. Decoction is a bit more of a pain in the neck, but I'm pretty sure it's the traditional method for those malty german beers like oktoberfests and I know it's suggested for weizens (if not, I'm sure someone will correct me (set flamethrowers to low, I already toasted my winter-pale skin in Santa Barbara)). I've tried it a couple of times and had very malty results. My doppelbock is actually a little too malty sweet (it finished around 1.030). I've thought about trying the enzyme addition discussed here last week, but I don't want to end up with Duff's Doppelbock Dry. Can I control the amount of enzyme activity by using a low dose? My gut feeling is that activity will be almost independent of dose since I think enzymes are catalysts and catalysts are not consumed in the reaction. Good luck, Bob Waterfall Troy, NY, USA Return to table of contents
Date: 10 May 95 13:04:06 EDT From: Danny Gilliam <73362.600 at compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Wort Chillers In HBD1725, MHANSEN at ctdmc.pmeh.uiowa.edu sez: <bunch-o-stuff-gone> > They use a counterflow chiller; the kind > that has the copper flowing through a large piece of PVC rather than a > garden hose. I built one of these counter-flow chillers that has the coiled copper in the PVC pipe. I designed it so the water flows the opposite direction of the wort flow in the copper tube, and also tried to set-up a spiral of the water inside the PVC using 90 degree elbows inside the thing (in theory it sounds cool, but...). The whole thing is about 24 inches long with ~30 feet of 3/8 copper coiled into a 2 inch diameter coil with each coil about 1/2 inch apart. The PVC pipe is 4 inches in diameter and the coil is centered perfectly down the length of the PVC tube. A test run with boiling water showed that it chilled the water to within 10 degrees. However, when I ran hot wort thru it, it only came within ~30 degrees of the cooling water. I finally realized that the wort was thicker than the water and the cooling efficency wouldn't be the same. My question is how have others built theirs and how close do you get your wort to the water temp that is cooling it? I've seen these things advertised by HB shops as being able to cool within 5 degrees of the cooling water....and they are smaller than mine. Does anybody know how the store models are constructed? And to thwart some replies: I've been using the immersion type for the last 20+ batches and would rather not do the garden hose trick. Please post back to the HBD as I'm sure there are some others that would like the info. -Jay Reeves in Huntsville, Alabama Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 09:21:33 PDT From: rafe at lattice.com (Rafael C. Camarota / SJC Design Engineer ) Subject: Wheat Beer Color Wheat Beer Color Saw a note yesterday on Wheat beer color. I have made 3 batches of wheat beer so far. I didn't use kit's I just experimented. I made a 25% dry wheat and 75% dry light extract. Another was 50/50 and another 75/25. I will get to 100% wheat soon. I know that 100% light extract makes a pale beer, and like Larry I have noticed that all wheat beers seem to be light. Some how all my beer's have been darker in color. I assumed the blending might have something to do with it since the mixture was dark even before it began to cook. So far the taste has been good. All I have to say is that wheat beer does require a lot of hops to get the flavor right. Rafe rafe at lattice.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 13:24:44 -0400 From: BrewDaddy at aol.com Subject: Re: malt flavor BVaughn at netcom.com writes: > "I have yet to get a good malty flavor in my brews. It was suggested that I bump up the adjuncts...maybe 2# crystal malt and 2# cara pils..." First, a minor correction. Adjuncts typically refer to the unmalted grains or cereals added to the mash, such as maize, rice, or oats. Crystal malt and carapils are malted barley , so they would not be considered adjuncts as such. Sorry if that sounds like a flame. It's not. Second, although the addition of crystal malt and cara pils may make your beer better, I would suggest you try using a different strain of yeast. Though I lack the knowledge off the top of my head, I do know that different strains have different flavor profiles that they produce. Some strains do favor malt flavor and aroma production. I'm sure that somewhere in the archives there is a text on the matter. Now that I think of it, I have the information somewhere in my files. You can e-mail me directly and I'll send you the yeast text that I have. As long as your brews have been wonderful then I wouldn't worry too much. Chuck G. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 13:15:50 EDT From: epeters at edasich.rtp.semi.harris.com (Eric Peters (919) 405-3675) Subject: dispensing chiller or jockey box ? In less than two weeks I'll be taking about six kegs to Ocracoke Island (NC), but my fifty cubic foot beer fridge will have to stay home. Can anyone offer suggestions on the best way to construct a post-keg/ dispenser/chiller/liquid-line-in-an-ice-bath/do-hicky. Archive searching for "jockey box" turned up little. It's obvious typical beverage line would be a poor heat conductor, but if anyone has found it to be "good enough," hey, that's good enough for me. I've heard finished beer is hard on copper, but I only need it for a week. Any advice or counsel will be greatly appreciated. Private email preferred, as I am short on time and very desperate. Thanks in advance. Eric Peters epeters at rtp.semi.harris.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 15:13:35 -0400 From: FranHogan at aol.com Subject: Freezer temperature control My local brew shop only sels a controller that goes down to 40 degrees, from Johnson Controls 507 E. Michigan Street Milwaukee, WI 53207 (product number A19BAG-1, range 35-95 degrees F.) Mine works fine on 14 cubic foot chest freezer. Dick Masterson franhogan at AOL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 15:36:27 EST From: "Harralson, Kirk" <kwh at roadnet.ups.com> Subject: Wyeast 1338, Death by Mead, Ovens Two of my recent batches have been fairly high gravity (1.072, 1.080) ales fermented with Wyeast 1338 European ale yeast. There is a strongly alcoholic (hot on the tongue), harsh cidery taste in both of these beers that I can't identify. If you've ever tried to drink a mead when it was too young, you know what I mean. Both were all-grain with no adjuncts. Both were fermented at an ambient temperature of 70F, with the fermometer reading 72F during primary fermentation. Is this high enough to cause this type of off-taste? After 6 weeks in the bottle, it is fading, but still detectable. Speaking of mead, last weekend, I got a little carried away with the batch I made almost a year ago. The reputation mead has for hangovers is unfortunately very, very true; maybe understated. It is a markedly different experience than I have ever had with beer, wine, or anything else. I have no idea what causes this, but warning labels will be required for all future meads.... For the people who put their kettle in the oven for insulation, does your kettle really lose that much heat during the mash? I just cover mine and check it periodically during a 1 - 1.5 hour mash. The temperature drop is usually very little. I never turn the burner back on. If necessary, I add a quart or so of water that I'm heating for the sparge on the next burner. I've never had a problem maintaining temperature. On the other hand, overnight mashing sounds pretty interesting. Does anybody do this? Pros and cons??? Kirk Harralson Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 95 11:40:04 PDT From: "Troy Howard" <troy at oculus.jsei.ucla.edu> Subject: Re: FG,OG, & mouthfeel Just to confuse matters further: Don't forget that carbonation levels play an important part in the perception of mouthfeel. Mouthfeel, in fact, is a very subjective sensation. Given the subjective nature and complexity of "mouthfeel," it is probably unreasonable to expect a single number or parameter (like FG) to characterize the phenomenon. On the other hand, we DO simplify color to a single parameter (transmittance, I believe). So maybe it would not be unreasonable to do the same for mouthfeel. Perhaps some standardized test could be developed such as de-gassing a given quantity of beer, then measuring its viscosity (for example). I am still dubious as to what value this would have in the homebrewing community, however. Opinions? -Troy - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Troy Howard | L troy at oculus.jsei.ucla.edu | looking corpse. Jules Stein Eye Institue, UCLA | - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 16:11:42 -0400 From: eamonn at chinook.physics.utoronto.ca (Eamonn McKernan) Subject: Body and gravity Russel Mast asks about the relation between FG and "body". I would guess that two beers with equal *alcohol content* as well as FG would have similar "body" or "mouthfeel". But remember, higher alcohol=> lower FG even with the same amount of proteins in the beer because alcohol is less dense than water. Body and mouthfeel seem to be pretty subjective terms, and to try and semi-quantify them with measures such as FG is useful, but let's keep in mind that they probably are not totally precise. But then again, one of the main draws for me in this hobby is that there is room for fuzziness (not just in my head) and subjectivity. Eamonn McKernan eamonn at atmosp.physics.utoronto.ca Return to table of contents
Date: 10 May 95 14:00:00 -0500 From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: stuck fermentation FAQ On the urging of an HBD subscriber, I have expanded a post I once wrote on "Stuck" fermentations and sent it to Stephen to have it put into the archives. It can be found in: /pub/clubs/homebrew/docs/stuck_fermentation.faq Check the header of any HBD to learn how to access the archives. I've also sent a copy of this FAQ to Spencer to put into "Spencer's Beer Page" on the WWW. The URL is: http://guraldi.itn.med.umich.edu/Beer/ Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 16:56:15 -0400 From: hopfen at iac.net (Ed Westemeier) Subject: Smoking grain Well, it's hard to keep lit [rimshot] but seriously, folks: I've been making smoked beers for about 5 years, and they always get good reviews, so here's what I know. 1. It's not necessary to moisten the grain before smoking. That will make it take up more smoke flavor, but you really have to experiment to find out how much you like. 2. If you do moisten it, you must let it dry thoroughly before crushing it. I use a schmidmill, and smoked grain that's even a tiny bit damp will gum up the works and make a mess. If you have one of the earlier schmidmill models, as I did, it will even stop. 3. Some people crush the malt before smoking it, and that may work better for you, depending on your equipment. I don't use that technique, because I smoke it in a wire basket in a backyard-type smoker. 4. The best compromise in how much to smoke is about 1/4 to 1/3 of the base malt. Much more, and the heat of the smoking process will kill enough enzymes that your extraction rate may really suffer. 5. Hickory will give you a great "bacon or smoked cheese" taste. Personally, I like that, but many people find it overpowering. 6. Mesquite will give you a very subtle sweetness that accentuates a sweet beer very nicely. I recently made a mesquite-smoked rye maibock that turned out well. 7. Apple will also give you a sweet note, along with a fruity one. Nice in any Bavarian style beer. 8. Beechwood is, of course, the original, used in the real Bamberg rauchbiers. In Bamberg, it's intensely smoky, while the imported Schlenkerla is more subdued. Both are, IMHO, to die for. 9. Mixtures of different kinds of wood are a good idea, because they give a complexity to the beer. Honestly, you have to experiment to find out how much of a smoke character you like in your beer. Once you have a few batches under your belt though, I can guarantee that you'll make more! Now go smoke 'em if you've got 'em. Ed ****************************** * Ed Westemeier * * Cincinnati, Ohio * * E-mail: hopfen at iac.net * * Phone: (513) 321-2023 * ****************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 May 1995 22:08:48 -0300 From: richard frederick hand <ac081 at ccn.cs.dal.ca> Subject: Re: Little Wolf hops > Yes, I own a HB supply store (low key, little hype), but I have not come > to sell (knowingly) but to draw upon the collective wisdom of the HBD. I > recently acquired some hop plants with the name of *Little Wolf*. Has > anyone heard of this type, is it an acronym for a better known variety, > or what? The greenhouse company that grew it knows little else about this > plant except the seeds came from Britain. Also, can't seem to find any > mention of it in plant books. Help would be appreciated. > TIA (and now the dreaded commercial sig) _______________ / | o ==== HOMEBREW | o \_______________| oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo o Rick Hand ac081 at cfn.cs.dal.ca Tel/Fax(902)454-U-BRU (8278) o o Maritime Brew & Wine Ltd. Halifax, N.S. Beer Wine Cider Kombucha o oooooooo http://www.cfn.cs.dal.ca/~ac081/hand.html oooooooooooooooo Visit my home page for recipes, information, etc. - Open 24 hours Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1728, 05/11/95