HOMEBREW Digest #1801 Mon 07 August 1995

Digest #1800 Digest #1802

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Re: waiting to cool (PatrickM50)
  Mash today boil tomorrow ("Lee A. Menegoni")
  Computers (Stephbrown)
  Wow! Would you believe... (TRoat)
  Guys/Exotic Fruit Beer (Drea )
  Stirring with Immersion Chiller (dflagg)
  Re: Heat Exchanging. (Wim Hielkema)
  Counter-pressure bottle fillers ("Bob Hall" )
  Celis clone (HOMEBRE973)
  Dry Hopping with Pellets/Brewer's Gold Hops (Jeff Hewit)
  ole miss micros (MR WADE A WALLINGER)
  Aeration equipment from BR (LEE_BOLLARD)
  CPBF (MicahM1269)
  CPBF cont (MicahM1269)
  Aquarium pumps (David Oliver)
  Wheat beer questions (Jim Dickinson)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 5 Aug 1995 11:15:49 -0400 From: PatrickM50 at aol.com Subject: Re: waiting to cool In HBD 1800, Neal writes: >At the end of the boil I stir the wort to whirlpool it and then let it >settle out for about 10 minutes before cooling. The hot break settles to >the middle of the converted keg bottom. I'd suggest reversing the process, i.e. cool as soon and as quickly as possible and then whirlpool the wort and let sit 10 minutes (covered) before siphoning to the fermenter. If you let the hot wort sit for another 10 minutes *before* cooling you have essentially added that time to the boil and your late hop additions may have a different effect than you intended. Pat Maloney Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 95 13:22:28 EDT From: "Lee A. Menegoni" <lmenegoni at nectech.com> Subject: Mash today boil tomorrow I did this only once. I had a nightmare stuck sparge from using steel cut oats, next time I will use instant quaker oats. I did a mashout but probably didn't hit 170F. I then had to go out so I left the brew in my boil kettle out doors on a spring evening it got into the 40sF and boiled the next day. The beer , an oatmeal stout was very good, it lacked body. I suspect that the thin body was due to additional enzme activity in the 17 or so hours from when I finished mashing to when I boiled. If you had to do this. You may want to: Ensure you hit mashout, the chill with a sanitized wort chiller to room temp and store cool.. If you can't chill and store cool Produce a more dexrinous wort which will get reduced to simpler sugars in the storage phase. . Lee Menegoni NEC Technologies 1414 Mass. Ave / MS 2110 Boxborough MA 01719-2298 v 508-635-6282 f 508-264-8787 LMenegoni at NECTech.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 1995 14:23:49 -0400 From: Stephbrown at aol.com Subject: Computers I just have to ask this: Am I the only homebrewer who uses a Mac? I have seen a number of software products available for brewers, but I have never seen anything available for Macintosh. Is there anyone out there who either knows of some Mac software, or who commiserates (sp?)? Stephen Brown Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 1995 21:04:20 -0400 From: TRoat at aol.com Subject: Wow! Would you believe... Made a batch of "LeftOver Ale", a batch comprised of leftover recipe grains that were piling up in my freezer (Munich, Belgian, Crystal, Dextrine, Toasted, Challenger hops, Cascade, 6# DME). I used 2 packets of Edme dried yeast, rehydrated. OG 1.057 and clear as bell going into fermenter - with a great toasted nutty flavor. ONE HOUR after pitching yeast I have fermentation acitivity (an inch of reproduced yeast on top covered with dark brown krausen and chunks of yeast beginning to ricochet all over and blowoff every 30 seconds)!!!. Is this possible - obviously it is cause its a happenin' :-) !! Anyone else been blessed with such a fast start! What did I do right :-) ?! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 95 21:09:16 EDT From: faye at plainfield.bypass.com (Drea ) Subject: Guys/Exotic Fruit Beer Hi ho, all -- This is my first post to the ol' HBD, so if what I'm about to ask is a complete and blatant breach of etiquette, do feel free to tell me so -- I subscribed just in time to catch the tail end of the religion thing, but I couldn't quite figure out if non-technical brewing questions/comments/discussions were kosher, if you'll pardon the pun. But here goes: I've noticed, not just on this list, but in my day-to-day life that the VAST majority of homebrewers are guys -- at least the ones who are vocal about it (could be I deal with closeted brewing gals every day and just don't realize it, I suppose). I've noticed a couple of female names here (altho I do realize that not all the addresses/sigs disclose the poster's gender) but only a couple. A recent post (I *believe* it was from Rob Brown?) was even addressed to "Guys --." Certainly no flame intended, but it sorta piqued my curiosity. What's the deal? Why so few gal-brewers? Hmmm? I'm interested to know what folks think. Okay, now for yer basic homebrew question: Anybody know of any recipes for beer made with exotic/unusual fruits? I've done a few berry brews (most recently a blackberry peach lager -- oh, yum. If anyone's interested, I'll pass the recipe along, but it would probably disappoint you all-grain brewers, as it does involve, um, well, to put it bluntly, extracts <cringe>), but I'm thinkin bigger these days: Kiwi, pineapple, pomegranate (christ, I can't even spell that one), things along these lines. And what about citrus? I've seen lots of recipes with orange peel/cinnamon combos, and I know Pete's has a not-very-tasty-at-all-if-you-ask-me Summer Brew that's flavored with lemon, but how about the humble lime? Let's just say I've got the fruit beer bug, and I'd love any recipes/leads/suggestions/anecdotes that y'all have to offer. Thank ya, thank ya Drea p.s. private or public responses welcome as can be faye at plainfield.bypass.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 1995 10:41:02 -0400 From: dflagg at agate.net Subject: Stirring with Immersion Chiller Richard Stueven recently wrote: > I recently worked out a way to suspend my immersion chiller so that > it's mostly near the top of the kettle rather than sitting on the > bottom. This cut my chilling time by about 25%. No stirring > necessary...let convection do the work! I believe a cooler (whether immersion or counterflow) performs two functions: cooling the wort to pitching temps and assisting in the formation of cold break. If one's only purpose is to just cool the wort, then either the stationary or agitating method will work (although the agitating method will be faster). It has been my experience that the faster the wort is cooled, the greater the formation of cold break. Also, I believe agitating the wort will cause the cold break material to bang into one another, form larger particles, therefore falling out of the wort faster. (This premise is not based on any personal scientific observation, just extrapolation from what I have read). >From a break removal perspective, then, agitation is clearly the method to use. As far as stirring or jiggling the cooler goes, my preference is for jiggling the cooler. I believe it allows more agglutination of the break material than stirring (just personal opinion). ************************************************************ Doug Flagg | "A Homebrew a day... dflagg at orono.sdi.agate.net | Keeps the Worries away!" ************************************************************ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 1995 17:59:53 +0100 From: betonh at xs4all.nl (Wim Hielkema) Subject: Re: Heat Exchanging. Hello all, In HBD #1800 DocsBrew at aol.com was asking if stirring really makes cooling wort go faster: >When I used an immersion chiller, I could drop the temperature from boiling >to about 70-75F in about 15-20 minutes. Am I missing something? What's the >advantage - or the need - for stirring. My rudimentary understanding of >thermochemistry (that was a lloooooong time ago!!) would say that it doesn't >matter a bit whether it's stirred or not. Any thermochemists have an >explanation that says different?? The main problem here is that no two (homebuild) chillers are alike. This, and the fact that the batch size, flow-rate and temperature of the cooling water used differs for everybody, makes it awkward to compare cooling times. IMHO you should be able to achieve cooling times of 15-20 minutes. If this time doubles then you should think about changing your setup e.g. stir and/or use longer tubing. To get back to your question: Stirring does improve the efficiency of the chiller. The rate at which heat is exchanged from the wort to the chiller is a function of the temperature difference between the wort and the cooling water. If you don't stir, the wort directly around the chiller will cool quickly, creating a temperature gradient in the wort which causes the efficiency to drop. You now only have natural convection to counter this gradient. Stirring will cause mixing of the hot and cold wort in the kettle much more quickly, allowing the hot wort to get faster to the chiller and thus be cooled more efficiently. Formulas about efficiency are around somewhere in the one of the chiller FAQ's at stanford, but I don't recall them covering this subject. The best proof is to try it yourself. If you stir your next batch (be careful to avoid HSA) you should see that that cooling times will go down. Again direct comparison of the results will be difficult, make sure you compare your results with a batch using the same batch size, water flow and temperature of the water as best as possible. >I now use the kind of heat exchanger where the wort runs inside the copper >tubing in a water bath (what did we decide that was called??). It seems to >me that it wouldn't make a difference whether it was an ice bath (cubes and >H2O), or if it were frozen solid - that the heat should exchange the same >either way. Does anyone have a different view? Or better yet....proof? Wasn't that called a reversed immersion chiller? Using icewater instead of tap water should speed up cooling but I think any benefits are cancelled out if you allow the the ice bath to heat up to much during cooling, so you need to add cool water to the bath to get maximum efficiency. An advantage is that you can stir the water bath much more vigorously than the wort :-). Bye, Wim. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Wim Hielkema, Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Organic chemist & homebrewer. betonh at xs4all.nl, http://www.xs4all.nl/~betonh/ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 1995 14:44:30 -0400 From: "Bob Hall" <bhall at sparc.ecology.uga.edu> Subject: Counter-pressure bottle fillers Kirk F. writes: >After having read subject review I drew the following conclusions: snip >3) By far the best performance in limiting introduced air into > solution is obtained with the $.20 tube-in-the-faucet solution I could not agree more. That article was useful in that it saved me a bunch of cash. My counterpressure filler was described on some HBD a while back by some resourceful brewer (ie. not me), and is a modification of the tube method. Put a bottle sized stopper on a piece of stiff poly tubing. Attach with at piece of soft tubing to the party tap. Insert tube to the bottom of the bottle and seal with stopper. Open tap. Beer will rush into the bottle until it is about 1/3 full which is when pressure inside bottle equilibrates with keg pressure. Gently wiggle stopper to let gas out of bottle which will let in more beer. When full release tap and remove tube. I find much less foaming with this method. Unfortunately it is about 5 times as expensive as the tube and faucet method - about $1.00... Bob Hall Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 1995 15:15:18 -0400 From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: Celis clone Hi Y' Ale, As we say in the South. I thought I would report on my attempt at a Celis Clone following Rick Garvin's Cherry Blossom Wit (Zymurgy 18 (1):57). I used: 0.4 lbs rolled oats 3 lbs. 10 oz. flaked wheat 4 lbs. DWC pilzen malt Step infusion mash with 1 hr at 124 F; 1 hr 10 min at 145 to 150 F; mash out at 160 and sparge at 160 with 1.5 h sparge to get 6 .75 gallons. Used 1.3 oz of Tetnang. pellet AA 4.3 for 70 min boil, 1/2 oz bitter orange peel last 20 min of boil; last 5 min added 1.25 oz of coriander seed (crushed); and about 0.5 oz of Saaz pellets. Chilled and pitched with Wyeast 3944. (5 gallons with o.g. 1.040). Fermented between 70 to 74 F. Racked 8 days later with gravity at 1.011. Bottled with 120 grams of dextrose at f.g. of 1.011. Added 5 ml of 88% lactic acid to last 2.25 gallons bottled. Notes: Sparge went beautifully with no problems. Hard time grinding coriander seeds with mortar and pestle. Compared directly with Celis White after 1 month in bottle. Color was almost exactly the same and both had pure white heads. However, the Celis had a longer lasting head. My clone was much drier and lacked the sweet fruitiness found in the actual Celis white. Comparing the two beers, I liked the actual Celis better because of its sweetness and fruit flavor which my clone only has hints of. Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Andy Kligerman homebre973 at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 1995 15:20:09 -0400 From: jhewit at freenet.vcu.edu (Jeff Hewit) Subject: Dry Hopping with Pellets/Brewer's Gold Hops In response to a query about dry hopping with pellets, I just drop the pellets loose into the secondary - no bag, no pasturizing. Since most of the fermenting has already taken place, there is enough alcohol to ward of any infection that the hops may introduce. I wait at least 2 weeks, usually 3, before I bottle. By that time, the hops have settled to the bottom of the carboy. Anyway, I have had no problems with this method since I started using it about 6 batches ago. I get clear beer, with no off flavors, and plenty of hop aroma. There was also a comment about using Brewer's Gold as the dry hop for Pete's Wicked Ale. The label on the neck indicates that Brewer's Gold is used, but doesn't indicate if it's bittering or aroma. I attempted to make a Wicked Ale clone, based on a number of recipes included in HBD and RCB. I used BG (1.25 oz - 5 gal batch) as my bittering hop, and used Willamette at the end of the boil and in dry hopping. I was very pleased with the result. The clone was bit darker, but tasted very similar to the real thing. In a blind taste test, one could tell that the clone and the Pete's were two different beers, but it was hard to really know which was which. Has anyone else tried a clone of Pete's that they were pleased with? - -- Jeff Hewit ****************************************************************************** Eat a live toad first thing in the morning and nothing worse will happen to you the rest of the day. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 1995 16:19:09 EDT From: GCTD31A at prodigy.com (MR WADE A WALLINGER) Subject: ole miss micros jeff foley asks about brew pubs and micros in mississippi. unfortunately for us brew enthusiasts, jeff is in for a rude awakening. not only do brew pubs and micros not exist, they are illegal. in fact, home brewing is illegal as well (although it seems that counties can exercise their local option and legalize home brewing locally). this was also the case in alabama until a few years ago when the state agreed to allow brew pubs to operate in historic buildings (i.e., feel free to invest in order to revitalize urban centers). the good news is that hattiesburg mississippi is not too far from mobile alabama (home of the port city brewery) and new orleans and the rest of louisiana (home to several brew pubs and micros). on another topic - bacteria. seems i've run into a bit of bad luck lately with these little buggers. i attempted a blueberry wheat by adding the fruit to the secondary after blanching at about 150 deg f. white stuff was floating on the surface of the primary. i racked and found the white stuff appearing on the secondary. i bottled and now have a rather tart blueberry 'lambic'. i tested its affect on my digestive tract and found no ill affects. the following batch was a brown ale. looked and tasted great on racking to the secondary. now the white stuff is appearing on the surface. i wager that the racking cane is the culprit, even though i soaked it in bleach water between uses (the cane has a small cork in the bottom which i suspect harbored the blasted buggers). not to give up hope, i plan to keg this batch quickly, before the white stuff gets out of control. the keg will be refrigerated at 40 deg f. would you expect the buggers to grow at that temperature? i will report back to the digest on the progress (regress?) of this tuff, if i live. and i'm also saying a prayer (sorry for the religious reference) for the raspberry wheat i racked this weekend. wawa - brewing contraband in mississippi (hey, maybe i could turn the 'lambic' into bathtub gin!?!?!) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 95 17:15:53 -0600 From: LEE_BOLLARD at HP-Spokane-om2.om.hp.com Subject: Aeration equipment from BR Item Subject: Aeration pump Tim Fields writes: :I've used my aeration kit (pump, ss airstone- from Brewers :Resources) for four batches now. My fermentations may kick :off a little faster, but so far the diff is minimal. My :main concern in getting it was to ensure complete ferments :- and in that it has been admirable. I used to use a "venturi tube" to aerate my cooled wort. This produced tons of bubbles, but my fermentations often stuck in the mid 20's. Since I got the aquarium pump and SS stone my fermentations finish all the way. 1.060 down to 1.012 using Wyeast #1056 is success in my book! I use it for the starters too. I used to just shake the starters. :Because of the airstone, I find it impossible to dry out :the hose and that could lead to contamination. Before I read the instructions saying not to try to disconnect the airstone from the tubing I pulled on the stone and the tack welds broke very easily. I was surprised after "breaking" the thing, but I am now pleased. I can push the stone onto it's metal connector for use. It stays on fine. I just pull it off to sanitize and/or dry the tubing. Works great. I LIKE the idea of connecting the stone to a racking tube. This may be ideal. Regards, Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 1995 20:08:28 -0400 From: MicahM1269 at aol.com Subject: CPBF As many HBDers have read the Zymury review of the CPBFs. I would like to have my say. I am a partial owner in one companies that make CPBFs. The article was not as well done as I had expected. The inconsistancies in the air level and CO2 level are most likely the result of user error. The high air levels are probalby due to low fill levels. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 1995 20:17:34 -0400 From: MicahM1269 at aol.com Subject: CPBF cont I have the same testing equipment for air and CO2 levels as G. Fix who did the tests for the reveiw. I have consistantly tested bottles with air levels below 0.5 ml. I feel that an operator who is familiar with a CPBF can do a much better job than the reveiwers. micah- brewer at large Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 1995 19:02:15 -0700 (PDT) From: David Oliver <dwo at slip.net> Subject: Aquarium pumps I just bought an aquarium pump and an airstone for airation purposes. But now I'm having second thoughts. Is this worthwhile, will I have infection problems not filtering the air with a submicron filter? Should I just buy a O2 tank and airstone like the one I saw in Brewing Techniques or do I just shake the carboy for 10 mins like I have been doing? Dave O Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 1995 04:12:46 GMT From: jdickins at baste.magibox.net (Jim Dickinson) Subject: Wheat beer questions hey all, I have several questions concerning wheat beer mainly concerning Eric Warner's book. 1) When he says to pitch 3.5 oz of weissbeer yeast and .33 oz of lager yeast why are the volumes so low? Especially the lager yeast volumes. 2) What will the bottle conditioning/lagering do to the final taste? I am going to do just this on my next batch. 3) In his book Warner mentions dark munich malt, but in all my hb catalogs I see no mention of a *dark* munich malt. Any ideas? 4) I have read that open primary fermentation will yield better results with the Weihenstephan yeast. Can I use a regular carboy without the stopper and in a sink? 5) I had a wheat beer brought back from germany and the ones I make are close but they do not have the slightly sour aftertaste that the german one did. Do I need to use the lactic acid forming yeast? 6) I am wondering if the hallertau mittelfrueh hops I received from jim koch are appropriate for this style? Used in the proper amounts, of course. help with any of these questions is greatly appreciated. thanks, jim jdickins at baste.magibox.net Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1801, 08/07/95