HOMEBREW Digest #1805 Fri 11 August 1995

Digest #1804 Digest #1806

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Foam and kegs (Dick Hinkle)
  re: No-stir immersion chiller... (pbabcock)
  Mill's ("Dan Listermann, Cinci OH")
  More on B-Brite (harry)
  Re: Heat Exchanging. (hollen)
  Brewpub/Micro Planner (Jeffrey B. Bonner)
  High Temperature Pumps? (Jeffrey B. Bonner)
  Women brewers (Suzette Smith)
  Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1803 (August 09, 1995) (Stephbrown)
  Improving Body While Maintaining OG ("Fleming, Kirk R., Capt")
  Why no HEAD?? ("mike spinelli")
  TRUB 7 Competition, Durham, NC (Mike Lelivelt)
  optimum temperature for bottles? (Rolland Everitt)
  Temperature Control (Slyboyy)
  Pierre Rajotte's yeast book (WindRiver)
  Vibration for Yeast, Clarifying, Easy Mashers (XDCHRISTIAN)
  temp control (DONBREW)

****************************************************************** * POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** ################################################################# # # YET ANOTHER NEW FEDERAL REGULATION: if you are UNSUBSCRIBING from the # digest, please make sure you send your request to the same service # provider that you sent your subscription request!!! I am now receiving # many unsubscribe requests that do not match any address on my mailing # list, and effective immediately I will be silently deleting such # requests. # ################################################################# Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 09:14:48 GMT From: dick.hinkle at manhattan.com (Dick Hinkle) Subject: Foam and kegs As a HBD lurker for the past several months and a recent convert to kegging I find that I am still confused by the explanations of how to prevent too much foam from coming out of a keg set up. I probably know enough about fluid mechanics to be dangerous. My problem is that it seems like the pressure drop from the keg to the spout is always going to be the gage pressure in the keg. Talking about using more or less hose or different id hoses will not make any difference. The velocity of the beer in the tube will change so that it causes a pressure drop in the tube that is equal to the gage pressure less any slight drop for raising the beer from the keg surface to the tap. A simple explanation of what we shoot for to reduce foaming would certainly be appreciated. Are we looking to reduce the Reynolds Number to the point we have laminar vs turbulant flow of the beer? TIA Dick Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 08:42:14 EDT From: pbabcock at e-mail.com Subject: re: No-stir immersion chiller... Government warning: Pleased be advised that the following could be construed as a flame. When DocsBrew (Chiropractor?) began speaking of 'thermochemistry' my eyes wandered onward to the next article. Knowing a wee little bit about fluid dynamics, heat transfer, and thermodynamics was enough to convince me that this was little more than a bit of scum floating on the surface of the pond of knowledge. Then Dion replied with his no-stir immersion experience. I'm afraid I gotta back you up, Dion: Before my enlightenment, I, too, tried to use an immersion chiller without disturbing the wort. I think a dip in a cold water bath would have taken less time. Don't move from your present location, Doc: like the 'Mystery Spot' in Michigan's Irish Hills, you appear to be living in a realm of physical abherration. I'd sell tickets, if I were you. Next? Flame shields up! Dive! Dive! Pat Babcock respond to: pbabcock at oeonline.com Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Aug 95 09:34:42 EDT From: "Dan Listermann, Cinci OH" <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Mill's John Glaser wrote an artical 8/8/95 about the BrewTek mill and I would like to clarify a remark he about the Philmill. He said that Philmill had no bearings and indeed the early Philmills did not have bearings. However more than a year ago they were upgraded with strip bronze bearings and almost six months ago they were further upgraded with sintered bronze bearings. Dan Listermann Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 10:18:54 -0400 From: hbush at pppl.gov (harry) Subject: More on B-Brite Another note on the B-Brite "etching" thing. I too have noticed a change in the B-Brite formula. It now suds up more like a detergent than before. I liked it better before. HOWEVER, that's an aside. There's been some talk that what was originally thought to be etching is actually a deposit- do you folks rinse after the B-Brite? I've seen somewhere that you don't have to but have never believed it. I always rinse with hot water after using B-Brite (I'll risk those few cooties), and especially do now that it does this suds thang. Whenever I've let a B-Brite solution just evaporate, it leaves a major white film/crust- very unappealing for a cleaner/sanitizer. So far, with hot water rinsing, never an infection (knock wood). Harry Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 07:48:54 -0700 From: hollen at vigra.com Subject: Re: Heat Exchanging. Due to some replies I have gotten personally on this subject, maybe a good plan would be for people with experiences similar to Doc's (i.e. short chilling times without stirring) to submit temperature readings of their input water. Mine here in San Diego is usually around 65-70F which I know certainly accounts for the extremely long time to come down from 90F to 75F. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x119 Email: hollen at vigra.com Senior Software Engineer Vigra, Inc. San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 95 8:48:02 PDT From: Jeffrey B. Bonner <t3345 at fel1.nfuel.com> Subject: Brewpub/Micro Planner I'm seriously interested in opening a brewpub or a micro-microbrewery. I've heard about the book that Bill Owens has out for $125. Has anyone purchased this and found it useful? I've purchased the Brewery Planner from IBS and am really wondering if I should spring for Owens book also!? Anyone? - -- Jeff Office: (509)375-8741 Fax: (509)375-8006/8402 email: jbb at fred.nfuel.com (work) nukebrewer at aol.com (home) It often shows a fine command of language to say nothing. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 95 9:00:05 PDT From: Jeffrey B. Bonner <t3345 at fel1.nfuel.com> Subject: High Temperature Pumps? Does anyone have a line on high temperature pumps (i.e. those that could be used to pump hot wort from the kettle to heat exchangers and/or to pump the hot water, 150-160F, to the mash tun)? Perferably (sp?) in the affordable range that a homebrewer can aford. The flow rate should be somewhere around 5 gal./min. Thanks in advance! - -- Jeffrey B. Bonner Office: (509)375-8741 Fax: (509)375-8006/8402 email: jbb at fred.nfuel.com (work) nukebrewer at aol.com (home) It often shows a fine command of language to say nothing. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 12:11:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Suzette Smith <SSMITH1 at drew.edu> Subject: Women brewers Date: 10-Aug-1995 11:46am EST From: Smith, Suzette SSMITH1 Dept: FAC/STAFF Tel No: (201)-408-3208 TO: Remote Addressee ( _in%HOMEBREW at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM ) Subject: Women brewers Greetings! faye at plainfield.bypass.com (Drea) wrote >Why so few gal-brewers? I have often been the only woman brewer at gatherings ranging from small to large. For the most part I have been accepted as an experienced homebrewer, judged upon my abilities to make great beer and meads. But there always seems to be at least on guy like Russell Mast >Honestly---I think it's a rock-boring thread that can make women brewers (even the subject of women brewers) feel so *welcome* (extreme sarcasm). Homebrewing should remain open and fun for all participants. Attitudes like the one expressed above have no place in a hobby where the sex of the brewer is irrelevant. (BTW just "saying" the gender of the homebrewer is insignificant doesn't mean much if your attitude and actions demonstrate something completely opposite.) Now let's all go have a homebrew. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 14:24:21 -0400 From: Stephbrown at aol.com Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #1803 (August 09, 1995) Kurt wrote: >Due to it being an Ale yeast can I go up into the high 60's, or >because it's a Stout recipe - do I need to keep it colder? Well, I'll tell you - I brewed a great dry stout at temperatures in the high seventies-low eighties. You may not beleive it, but it's true. It's only weakness is lack of head retention. I used the Irish ale yeast (don't remember the number). I don't see that you would have any trouble with the high sixties. SGB Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 95 12:48:00 MST From: "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt" <FLEMINGKR at afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil> Subject: Improving Body While Maintaining OG Looking over four judges' comments regarding an ordinary bitter entered in two contests, two recurring themes were "more malt" and "undercarbonated". The OG for this beer was about 34 (by design), and it was bottled with the carbonation level I usually use for bitters (12 psi condition and serve). One judge did say the condition was "ok for style", but everyone seemed to agree it was low. 1a. I have a question about the "more malt" comments. Since simply adding more malt would raise the OG of the beer, I don't think that is what the judges intend. I think their actual complaint is a mouthfeel issue since overall the flavor was judged 'balanced'. I reason one solution is to cut back the pale ale and compensate with increased carapils and/or crystal, then balance this change with additional kettle hops. Having no further information than the two constraints I mentioned (maintain OG and increase body/mouthfeel), I'd like your comments regarding my solution or other suggestions. 1b. Based on my reasoning above, I also conclude an OG=34 ordinary with an FG=8 that seems watery probably will have to finish at about FG=12 instead--IOW, a smaller beer will have to generally have a higher proportion of unfermentables that a bigger beer to retain some bigness? Comments? 2. Although the carbonation level of this ale from my keg is perfect for my taste (I think ALL bottled bitters are way overcarbonated), I do wonder what effect the condition in the beer has on its apparent body. Will lower carbonation levels tend to make the beer feel watery to most tasters? NOTE: I didn't use my CPBF for these entries and now, after the Zymurgy review of CPBFs, realize I probably sent off entries that may have been at ~1.5 vol in my keg, but much less at the judges' table. KRF / Colorado Springs / flemingk at usa.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 15:08:50 -0400 (EDT) From: "mike spinelli" <paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil> Subject: Why no HEAD?? Brew dudes, The following brew has been in the bottles for about a month, but I'm still not getting much of a head. SPECS: for 10 gals. 6.6# M&F light syrup 6.6# Bierkeller amber syrup 1# weizen 60/40 blend dme 1# light dme (mashed the following 3 grains at 150 for 60 min.) 1/2# crystal 40L 1/2# victory 1/2# Carapils added wort from mini mash to extracts in keg & boiled 4 oz. Hallertau 3.9% 60 min. 1/2 oz. Kent Goldings 4.9% 60 min. 2 tsp. IM hydrated night before added at T-10 Wyeast 1056 American in 1500 ml starter (split btwn 2 carboys) 4 day primary at 70 deg. 10 days in 2ndry bottled w/ 1 pack Knox geleton in heated (about 140) water per 5 gals. primed w/ dextrose (8 grams per liter per dave draper equating to 5.25 ozs. per 5 gals) OG: 53 FG: 10 Beer tastes pretty good, almost clear and ruby red in color. Carbonation is around medium So why no head? Too much of a mish-mash of ingrediants? I added the weizen dme to *ensure* a good head! So much for that. 2 cent collections can begin now. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 15:53:02 -0400 (EDT) From: Mike Lelivelt <mjl at email.unc.edu> Subject: TRUB 7 Competition, Durham, NC Call for entries and judges for the Seventh Annual TRUB Open September 30, 1995 Bull City / Weeping Radish Brewery Durham, NC Low entry fees - $5 for the first entry, $4 for the second, and $3 for each additional entry. Prizes - $50 gift certificate to BrewBetter Supply, Cary, NC and an engraved trophy to the Best of Show winner. A full case of Samual Adams beer, provided by the Boston Beer Company to the first place winner in each category. Second and third place in each category will receive a 22 oz of Weeping Radish beer and a gross of bottle caps, respectively. Special consideration for Belgian styles - We will be judging Belgian and Lambic style beers in a special closed session the evening before the competition. We will be using Phil Seitz's excellent augmented Belgian guidelines. If you've been disappointed with the judging of your Belgian beers in the past, we are hoping to give your beers the consideration they deserve. BJCP Recognized - We support the program. All stewards and judges are assured of accurate recording of their experience points in the database. Send an e mail to mjl at email.unc.edu with your snail mail address for more competition details. Co-organized by Craig Pepin & Mike Lelivelt Craig can be reached at <ckp at acpub.duke.edu>, though he cannot response to any mail until after August 22. ============================================================================== Mike Lelivelt mjl at email.unc.edu Dept of Microbiology & Immunology home 919-408-0451 Univ of N Carolina at Chapel Hill BJCP Certified Judge ============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 17:35:38 -0400 From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt) Subject: optimum temperature for bottles? I am wondering about the best temperature at which to store newly-bottled brew. Cooler temps would seem to favor the CO2 going into solution, but warmer temps might favor yeast activity. The books I have are silent on this topic. Is there an optimum temperature? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 19:58:39 -0400 From: Slyboyy at aol.com Subject: Temperature Control Hello this is my first time posting a message. Does any one Know of a refrigerator Temperature control unit thats good to use in the process of brewing a lager. Thanks Michael slyboyy at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Aug 1995 23:16:46 GMT From: WindRiver at bitstream.mpls.mn.us Subject: Pierre Rajotte's yeast book Does anyone out there know the title of Pierre Rajotte's book on yeast culturing (I believe it came out last year sometime). Any distributor/publisher info would be greatly appreciated. Send any info you have to this address. Thanks in Advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 18:16:35 -0800 (PST) From: XDCHRISTIAN at CCVAX.FULLERTON.EDU Subject: Vibration for Yeast, Clarifying, Easy Mashers Hi HBDer's I would like to share an observation and I have a few questions. The last few batches I have placed my Wyeast packs on or near my air pump which is hooked up to my fish tank. I have noticed that they swell up faster. After pitching it into my starter wort, I have also noticed that they are starting faster. This has only been practiced for the past 6 batches. It could be that I am getting better packages of yeast; however, the dates have varied substantially. Some were quite fresh and some were quite old (3 months past the date on the pack). They are usually #1056. What do you think about the idea that the vibration is aiding in getting the yeasties going? I haven't been too concerned about the clarity of my brews until lately. Being blind allows me to concentrate on other improvements in my brew. I guess it was never bad enough for me to notice! It tastes great and that is all that really mattered to me. The problem is that some of my friends who I have been turning on to homebrew are concerned about the haze and sometimes I get the little chunckies. Their concerns have convinced me to think about clarifiers. Would someone be willing to help me out with the right clarifiers. I know gelatin, policler, isinglass all work on different things like chill haze and proteins... What I am considering is after primary fermentation is over (for ales), I would turn the frig down to 40-50F for a week or 2. Would this clear my beers with out having to add clarifiers? Or is this a bad idea because the beer will be sitting on the trub and dead yeast too long? I have recently installed easy mashers on 2 converted kegs. I have a problem with the connection between the hose and the spigot. There is a ridge on the spigot from the mold which prevents a solid tight seal. Putting a hose clamp makes it better but not really what I want. Is this a common problem? Should I just file it down to make it as round as I can with a file? Or is there something I'm missing? TIA Keith xkchristian at fullerton.edu Blind Brewing in Garden Grove CA When it sounds like it's boiling and it steams like it's boiling, and it feels like it's boiling (ouch), it is probably boiling! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 10 Aug 1995 21:48:53 -0400 From: DONBREW at aol.com Subject: temp control OOPS, I just found out that all of my attempts at fabricating a "Radio Shack friendly" temp control have been rendered moot. The previously dis-continued "temperature control module" 277-123, has been re-continued at $19.99. This module comes with a temp probe and digital readout, range -40F to 212F (this seems to change by unit or mfg or by year), C or F, sample rate of 1 or 15 seconds, max and min memory, hi alarm, lo alarm, and control alarm (read alarm as output). You have to add 5 or 6 momentary contact switches to use it. You can add either a transistor and relay or an optocoupler and a triac to drive a refrigerator and or a light bulb type heater. I got one of these a year or two ago when they were still officially dis-continued, either the documentation that came with it was wrong or I destroyed something in soldering, some of the functions did not work correctly, I do know that the data in the 1991 "Semiconductor Reference Guide" is incorrect in reference to the unit I got, but it functions very well keeping my cold box cold. I do suggest using the 15 sec. sampling and place the probe in a jar of water to provide a thermal buffer. I use the transistor and relay approach so far. In using one of theses things remember that if it can drive an LED it can drive an optocoupler. Well anyway, If you can do any tinkering at all this is a good and cheap temp control, for a do-it-yourself type for <$30. It is available "Special Order Only". Again that is cat.# 277-123. Don Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1805, 08/11/95