HOMEBREW Digest #1820 Fri 01 September 1995

Digest #1819 Digest #1821

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Killer chiller, thermistors, bad alcohol (dludwig)
  Filter hops and break (Philip Gravel)
  Vasectomy and Homebrew ("Kevin A. Kutskill")
  re: Brewing in the Middle East (Nir Navot)
  Extraction efficiency ("RUCKER, WILLIAM G.")
  Homebrew shelf life / beer engine (Eric Bender)
  Is my refrigerator ruined? ("Jeff M. Michalski, MD")
  Cats Meow (Mark Stevens)
  Moravian 2-Row barley malt - sources? (LT Alan D Czeszynski)
  unsubscribe Digest (Bernhard Huber)
  Tap Tower (Junius Adams)
  New siphon tool (claytonj)
  Adios Amiegos Cervacia (ELQ1)
  W. Coast Brewpubs ("Wes Neuenschwander")
  Wyeast Eurpean Ale Yeast ("Robert Marshall")
  Re: counter pressure bottling foam/RTP Yeast in SF Bay Area? (hollen)
  filtering beer/wine/mead (Chuck Wettergreen)
  organically grown ingredients (Jim Larsen)
  Sparging Techniques Poll - RESULTS (Nir Navot)
  Aerating Stones / Real Ale Fest (Dennis Davison)
  sour mega lager yeast wheat scum (Russell Mast)
  Soda Kegs in LA area (Mario Robaina)
  re: scum skimming (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
  RE: using lactic acid (MClarke950)
  Hop Plug Utilization? (MClarke950)
  Re: Lag time in yeast (SoarMoose)
  Re: Brewing Stand (BixMeister)
  All-Wheat Mash Schedule (Nicholas A. Franke)
  Strawbeery Teaser (BF3B8RL)
  replacement taps (DONBREW)
  The Hunter fix (DONBREW)
  Re: Freshness Peaks in Beer (Jeff Renner)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 22:06:35 -0400 From: dludwig at atc.ameritel.net Subject: Killer chiller, thermistors, bad alcohol Ahhhh! I can finally post!. I have been chomping at the bit on this one and am finally able to post, belated as it may be. Immersion chillers can work well without stirring. Contrary to popular belief, the wort does not necessarily have to be static (in the absence of stirring) in an immersion chiller. When I built my chiller, I wanted to keep the lid on while cooling the wort to keep bugs, dust, cat out of the wort while maximizing free convection. In other words, no stirring. Before turning on the cooling water, I usually give the wort a couple of good stirs, put the lid on and go for it without further stirring. But after reading several recent posts, I decided to chill a 7 gallon batch with no stirring what so ever. The wort temperature went from boiling to 76 deg F in 18 minutes. Data as follows (time:temp): 0:200, 1:160, 2:138, 3:125, 4:117, 5:109, 6:103, 7:97, 9:90, 10:87, 11:85, 13:82, 14:80, 15:78, 16:77, 17:76, 18:75. Here are the conditions: -tap water temperature (chiller inlet temp) - 66 deg F -ambient temperature - 75 deg F -flowrate through chiller - didn't measure but water is supplied by a typical submersible well -pump in the back yard -7 gallons of wort in 33 qt enamel-on-steel canning/crab! pot with lid -50 ft garden hose to the chiller and 25 ft of exit hose I think chiller construction is the key. We've heard talk about forced convection(stirring) and natural convection(no stirring). I constructed a double coil out of 34 ft of 3/8 copper. Read Kirk Flemings post in #1809. His chiller sounds similar. The outer coil is 12 in diameter and the inner is 7.5 in diameter. My reasoning behind this design was to develop reenforcing circulation cells (sorta donut shaped) in the pot. I initially tested the design with two water boils. Through refraction in the water, I could see the currents generated during the cooling. Pretty amazing to watch. Two tests yielded 16 and 18 minutes from boiling to 75 degrees F with no stirring and the pot lid on. Now I have no idea whether this is an optimum configuration, but it works good enough for me. Out of 5 batches, all but one have chilled from boiling to 75 deg F in less than 20 minutes with no stirring other than an initial stir before chilling. One batch went from boiling to 75 degrees in 29 minutes which really had me puzzled until I discovered the washing machine was running and in the rinse cycle so I guess there was some reduction in flow rate through the chiller. One thing I noticed when sweating copper joints; it's easy to overdo it and get an excessive amount of solder inside of the tube. I discovered the opening in one joint nearly half blocked by solder. In a chiller, this would substantially reduce the flowrate through the chiller and the efficiency along with it. May be why some chillers don't perform well. Then again, maybe I'm the only one who has done this. The other thing you might consider when building a double coil chiller, or a single coil for that matter, is keeping the tubes well alligned over each other. I used my shop vac for forming the outer bank and a paint can for the inner bank. Because the convection flow of wort over the tubes is reenforcing, I think that neatly stacked tubes is better than haphazardly stacked tubes where you probably get lots of small eddie currents around the stack upsetting the circulation effect. Your chiller will look like Mr. science and not like a Snuffy Smith still. Just a thought and not intended to be an established truth (how about that for a sign off line!) On another subject, someone recently asked about a source for thermistors. I purchased several from radio shack for less than two bucks apiece (blah). I constructed a temperature probe as follows: 1) 1 inch long thin walled brass tube (3/16 dia) and crimp one end, 2) Solder leads to the thermistor, 3) fill the tube with epoxy and insert thermistor w/leads (intent is secure thermistor in the tube and insulate the exposed wires), 4) slide the wire leads through a length of flexible tubing and slide the tubing over the open end of the brass tube, 5) clamp the flexible tube around the brass tube with chromium iron wire (safety wire for those in the aviation business). You now have a temperature probe that you can use in your mash or boiling pot. I use a digital multimeter that, within the resistance range of the the thermistor, reads to the nearest 1/10 ohm. These thermistors have calibration data on the back of the packaging. I generated a calibration curve with this data and use that to monitor temperature. I actually use two curves, one for the range of mash temperatures and one for the boiling/chilling temperature range. I satisfied myself as to the accuracy by checking the readings in an ice bath and boiling water. I also always do a sanity check by comparing to my standard thermometer. Works great and cheap too if you neglect the cost of the multimeter. Of course we use them for other things too, right? What does fusel alcohol taste like? Got's me worrying now, what with my rocky racoon's fermenting away happily in my unused basement sump pit at a very steady 68 deg F. Dave Ludwig "From the land of pleasant living" Southern MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 21:14 CDT From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel) Subject: Filter hops and break ===> David Mercer asks about filtering out hops and break material: > But there's >one basic I still haven't figured out yet: How best to filter out the hops >and break when siphoning to a counterflow chiller. [snip, snip, snip...] >I boil in an 8 gallon enamel/steel pot and chill using a counterflow chiller >with a copper siphoning cane. One suggestion I've heard is sticking a >copper scrubbing pad on the end. But it seems to me that this would get >clogged pretty quickly. Filtering out the break material is difficult at best. Your best bet is to siphon away from it and not worry too much if some gets into the fermenter. The same holds true if you're using hop pellets. A copper pad is good if you're using whole hops or hop plugs. The pad doesn't get clogged at all in my experience. - -- Phil _____________________________________________________________ Philip Gravel Lisle, Illinois pgravel at mcs.com Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Aug 95 23:13:08 EDT From: "Kevin A. Kutskill" <75233.500 at compuserve.com> Subject: Vasectomy and Homebrew Catching up on old digests, and ran across the post by Ray Ownby on brewing and vasectomy. I recently did the "Big V", did not brew beer, but instead taught my wife how to draw a draft form my kegging setup in the basement. Funny how she forgot how to do this for me after I recovered! <g> The doctor gave me a prescription for Tylenol #3's, but I found that a homebrew every 1-2 hours did a much better job! Just in case anyone else has to make the "Great Sacrifice"! Kevin A. Kutskill ("Dr. Rottguts") Clinton Township, MI "A homebrew a day keeps the doctor happy" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 08:25:02 +0200 From: diagen at netvision.net.il (Nir Navot) Subject: re: Brewing in the Middle East in HBD 1817 Chris Eykamp asked: >Subject: Brewing in the Middle East >Has anyone done it? I am doing it!! and a few others do too. But my guess is you are talking about an arab country. Well then, if you do not intend to malt your own grain and grow your own hops, you will have to bring them over from europe or the US. However, if you could visit Israel from time to time, you could do your shopping for brewing supplies here. The Middle East - Where the Desert Beer was born. Now let's talk about pitching temperatures... Nir Navot, Rosh Ha'ayin, Israel "WeBrew in HeBrew!!!" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 07:00:28 EDT From: "RUCKER, WILLIAM G." <ruckewg at naesco.com> Subject: Extraction efficiency Dear Digest, I have just completed my first attempt at all grain brewing. I am curious about how to find my extraction efficiency. I have seen several posts on this in the past but as I wasn't brewing all grain they were passed over. I hate to ask the same questions over and over but can someone provide me with a usable formula and hopefully a brief description of how it all goes together? I would really appreciate it. By the way, the beer seems to have turned out just fine! Thanks for the toleration! Cheers, Bill brewzer at peanut.mv.com ruckewg at naesco.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 07:54:50 EDT From: uscgc2r3 at ibmmail.com - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: MarbleTtun I haven't built my Brewhaus yet, but I've been going over a lot of plans in my head. Regarding a false bottom fo the mash tun, does anyone see a problem with using a couple of inches of marbles to support a layer of window screen (and maybe a one-deep layer of marbles on top of that to keep it in place). In my head, this is cheap, easy, and a breeze to wash up after. I've no desire to walk into a disaster though if an experienced masher can point out some obvious flaws. Thanks Wallie Meisner 1800 334 9481 x-2410 - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 08:01:32 -0400 (EDT) From: Eric Bender <benderec at ttown.apci.com> Subject: Homebrew shelf life / beer engine Steve Schultz writes: <I am noticing a definite pattern: My beers often taste very good after <2-3 weeks in the bottle, but after not much more than 4-5 weeks, they are <in decline. Sorry Steve I can't offer any suggestions since I experience the exact opposite. In Papazian's CJOHB he always says the beer should be ready to drink in 3-4 weeks, but I have found no matter what the style of beer I've made, the beer does not even begin to come into its own until after 2-3 MONTHS! and remains very good at least up to 8 months (never any left after 8 months). The only suggestion I do have is my beers regardless of style benefit (taste wise that is) from a lagering period in the fridge for 2-3 weeks after they have been bottled and sitting in my basement for 2-3 months. On another subject, I tried the suggestion in the current issue of ZMRGY of using a 10 cc syringe as a beer engine. I must say this did more for my homebrew than I thought it would. I poured 12 ozs. (flat) into a buldge pint, withdrew 10 cc and than with moderate pressure shot the 10 cc back into the glass. The beer "rained" in my glass ala Guiness and emerged with a thick creamy head that stayed there until the last drop. An already fine ale seemed to be rounded out better and even possibly perfected. I tried it on two ales, one an English Old Ale (O.G. 1.075) & an American Pale Ale (O.G. 1.047). The engine did more for the higher gravity beer? but did help both beers! Comments please. Eric Bender Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 95 08:27:14 -0500 From: "Jeff M. Michalski, MD" <michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu> Subject: Is my refrigerator ruined? Yesterday Donbrew posted this message: >Subject: Hunter fix and defrost clock > On a related note. I certainly hope that everybody who uses a >refridgerator for fermenting/lagering has remembered to either use an old >fashioned "defrost it yourself" fridge or disabled the defrost clock. If you >explore underneath the fridge, probably near the back side you will find a >little "black box" with a knob on it and two wires plugged into it, this will >probably be the clock. Just short the two wires and voila, no more auto >defrost cycle. BTW this clock is in my limited experience the most common >cause of a "dead" refridgerator, they tend to break in the off cycle. I've been using a Hunter airstat on my refrigerator for about a year. It is a frostless variety. "Is my refrigerator ruined?" What is a defrost clock, how does it work, how can I recognize it beyond a doubt and what would happen if I didn't disable it? JEFF M. MICHALSKI michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 95 09:23:19 EDT From: Mark Stevens <stevens at stsci.edu> Subject: Cats Meow Been a couple messages about Cats Meow in the last couple days... The Cats Meow 3 is currently available through the world wide web at http://alpha.rollanet.org/cm3/CatsMeow3.html What you see there is a working draft of the recipe collection. Recipes are available via the web as soon as we fold 'em in, but stable FTP'able versions aren't ready yet (couple more months). When Cats Meow 3 is ready, it will be available through usual FTP channels in ASCII and PostScript formats, plus there will probably be a version in Acrobat PDF form, and a LaTeX version if enough people are interested in that. As for the question about Access, Karl and I have never been keen on supporting any specific commercial product's format. We'll provide generic, platform and software independent format files and if you want to pull it into your favorite word processor, spreadsheet, database, or whatever, that's cool, but we're not going to support a gazillion different files for everyone's favorite commercial software. Cheers! - ---Mark Stevens stevens at stsci.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 09:37:40 -0400 (EDT) From: LT Alan D Czeszynski <czesz at nadn.navy.mil> Subject: Moravian 2-Row barley malt - sources? I want to brew more authentic German lagers and have decided to start by switching to Moravian 2-row vice domestic 2-row. The problem I have run into is that most HB supply stores advertise their malts as German or Belgian, Pils or 2-row, but not specifically as Moravian. (And amazingly, the proprietors don't know the difference). Are these malts Moravian, and specifically, are the Pilsner 2-rows produced by DWC and Gambrinus Moravian? Also, if any of you know of a good supplier of Moravian I'd like to know. TIA Alan - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ LT Alan Czeszynski, USN | czesz at greatlakes.nadn.navy.mil | Department of Naval Architecture, | Ocean and Marine Engineering | voice: 410-293-6436 | fax: 410-293-2219 U. S. Naval Academy Annapolis, MD | DSN: 281-6436 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 23:10:18 +1000 From: anarchie at zeta.org.au (Bernhard Huber) Subject: unsubscribe Digest I want to unsubscribe from the Homebrew Digest mailing list, please... it's great but clogs up my mailbox too much. Thanks for great brews.... bernhard Huber anarchie at zeta.org.au Bernhard Huber 10 Shepherd St Marrickville NSW 2204 AUSTRALIA Tel.: +61 2 560 7780 e-mail: anarchie at zeta.org.au http://www.zeta.org.au/~anarchie/Home ************************************************************************** "He who has diarrhoea knows the direction of the door without being told" (Proverb from Uganda) ************************************************************************** "Bill Gates' plan for interactivity is to make people stupid. Subordinate them to technology by way of interactive shopping." Noam Chomsky 1995 ************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 10:03:30 -0400 From: Junius Adams <AdamsJ at gwgate.nhlbi.nih.gov> Subject: Tap Tower Hi all, I have been lurking long enough. I have a question for the collective. I have recently gotten into kegging and will never bottle again. Since the soft drink companies are going to plastic containers, one can get great deals on corny kegs. My question is that I have recently set up a 24" wide, 24" deep, and 36" high refrigerator that will hold 3 corny kegs and a 5 lb C02 cylinder. I currently have a single tap tower with a single tap on top. The tower is the garden variety chrome plated brass kind. I would obviously like to go to a triple tap tower, but am interested in something a bit out of the ordinary (e.g. antique). I have absolutely no idea where to begin my quest. I would be most grateful for any information in this area. Private E-mail (ja33m at nih.gov) would be ideal. TIA Jay Adams National Heart, Lung, and Blood Institute Blood Diseases Program Health Scientist Administrator and Resident Brewer "They gave William IV a lovely funeral. It took six men to carry the beer. From "Anguished English" by Richard Lederer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 09:44:50 -0400 From: claytonj at cc.tacom.army.mil Subject: New siphon tool Brewers, This is an update to a post I made earlier this year where I proposed making a dyke to hold back hops and break material while siphoning cooled wort from the boiler. Due to house painting and other chores, I've just now been able to FINALLY brew a batch and here is the result. My original plan was to take a soup can and cut out the bottom and top, slit the side, bend tabs to fit the radius of the kettle, and drill a bunch of 1/16" holes. Due to the aforementioned chores, I was unable find the time to make the original design. So with brew day fast approaching, I decided to leave the can whole, cutting out the top and bottom and drilling it with holes. As it turns out, I think a much better design. I used a 16 oz size can (baked beans) with a laser welded seam approximately 4 3/8 inches high and a 3 inch diameter. While brewing a batch of house ale, I used a center punch and a narrow piece of wood to lay out eight rows of holes approximately 1/4 inch apart vertically and horizontally. I ended up with 28 holes per row by 8 rows for a total of 224 holes. The first three rows were drilled with 1/16 bit, the next two rows with a 5/64 bit and the last three rows with a 3/32 bit. The reasoning for the different size holes was, besides the fact I was having a good time ;-), that the smaller break and hop particles would be at the bottom and need more filtration, but I didn't want to restrict the flow into the cylinder too early. In fact I was having such a good time making this I had my first major boil over right after adding the bittering hops (DOH!!!). I wonder if the homebrews may have had anything to do with the disaster? Naaaaa. Anyway, I used a rat tail file to smooth the inside of the can and clean out the holes and tossed the can in my bucket of sanitizer (B-brite) along with a copper scrubby to be used as the filter at the base. I chilled the wort with my immersion chiller and whirlpooled with a 2 x 4 block under one side of the pot to get the hops and break material to pile up at one end of the pot. I began to siphon using just the racking cane until I started getting into the cloudy wort. I then took out the can and scrubby, rinsed it, and put the scrubby into the bottom of the can and placed it on the high side of the kettle. I removed the wood block and placed the racking cane into the can and continued to siphon. It worked unbelievably well! I had to slow down the siphon only when the level of wort went below the level of hops/break material. I was able to tip the pot up and collect all of the wort without having break or hops clogging up my racking cane. The hop/break bed was so compacted, I was able to tip the kettle up on its side and pour the last little bid of wort out of the can area into the fermenter. This was the first time I've ever been able to successfully siphon all the wort from my kettle without having the siphon tube clog and lose the siphon. The thing works great and I may never have another stopped siphon again (I know, I probably just jinxed myself) and it's a lot easier to build than the copper ring thingy. Can ASCII: |----------| Cut out top and bottom of the can. | | | | | | |..........| |..........|\ |..........| * actually 8 rows with copper scrubby installed in |..........|/ the bottom portion. |----------| A couple of other things: Do any of you Mac users out there know how to convert Excel for DOS/windows files to Excel for Macintosh (version 3, I think). I have a PC at work and a Mac at home and I'd like to be able to use some of the PC based Excel brewing spreadsheets at home without having to construct them myself. To the guy who said it's possible to brew with toddlers around: Do you want to trade toddlers until I get my beer stock back up to where it should be? :-) See ya, Joe C. Joe's garage and basement pico brewery, Farmington Hills, MI ak753 at detroit.freenet.org (preferred) or claytonj at cc.tacom.army.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 11:24:26 PDT From: ELQ1%Maint%HBPP at bangate.pge.com Subject: Adios Amiegos Cervacia Its been 2 very educational years of reading the HBD, the little tricks learned, the passionate charactors, the unending drivel threads that seem go longer than some of my lager fermentations. So, as I pack up my alter ego, Danny Dumps Jr. and move outta this office and into one up town, I will hopefully be able to re-subscribe and again look forward to morning coffee and the HBD. Thanks Spencer, John P., Al, Rich, Coyote, Kirk, etc. I have learned a lot, and if anyone will listen, I'll pass it on! Ed Quier ELQ1 at PGE.COM 707=444-0718 Brewing Lagers Live! from behind the Redwood Curtain, Eureka! Ca. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 08:29:19 8 From: "Wes Neuenschwander" <wesn at eskimo.com> Subject: W. Coast Brewpubs I'm planning on driving through the Oregon and California coasts over the next few weeks, hoping to find some nice little brewpubs along the way. In the past I've been pleasantly surprised with both the quantity and quality of the breweries. However, I've invariably discovered that I've overlooked some of the newer, perhaps smaller and more out of the way, places in these sojourns. Are there any listings of Oregon and/or California brewpubs that anyone on the list is aware of? I promise to do my darndest to provide updates, comments, etc. upon my return. Thanks. -Wes Wes Neuenschwander Seattle, WA wesn at eskimo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 1995 09:13:05 -0800 From: "Robert Marshall" <robertjm at hooked.net> Subject: Wyeast Eurpean Ale Yeast I have used this three times and have had long lag times every single time. Granted, I don't use a starter, but I still think it is the yeast because I have used other Wyeast strains, which have moved faster from the start. Best Wishes, Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 07:56:59 -0700 From: hollen at vigra.com Subject: Re: counter pressure bottling foam/RTP Yeast in SF Bay Area? >>>>> "Robert" == Robert Marshall <robertjm at hooked.net> writes: Robert> Cannot help you with the Braukunst prduct since I don't use one, but Robert> I will repeat something I read elsewhere: Robert> Don't practice on beer!! For heaven and beer's sake, use tap water Robert> and make yourself some fizzy water for the kids. Sorry to contradict you, but while I agree that fizzy water is a place to start practicing, it certainly does not mimic beer. There are a lot of components in beer which will make it foam quite differently from fizzy water and the final test, IMHO, *must* done on beer. I have communicated with the original poster with some suggestions to solve the foaming problem. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x119 Email: hollen at vigra.com Senior Software Engineer Vigra, Inc. San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 12:38:07 -0500 From: chuckmw at mcs.com (Chuck Wettergreen) Subject: filtering beer/wine/mead Anyone out there filtering beer/wine/mead on a regular basis? I checked "The Brewery" web page and didn't find any useful info. I'd like to know the different types of equipment and supplies available, pros and cons of different methods, and sources of supply. E-mail preferred and I'll summarize fot the Digest. TIA, Chuck Wettergreen Chuckmw at mcs.net Geneva, IL /*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/* Chuck Wettergreen chuckmw at mcs.com Geneva, Il /*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/* Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 14:19:24 -0500 (CDT) From: Jim Larsen <jal at gonix.gonix.com> Subject: organically grown ingredients Ive been requested to brew a beer using only organically produced ingredients. While the term has not been precisely defined (What do you mean the malt was packaged in polyethylene!?), Im trying to line up appropriate ingredients. If anyone has information regarding such products, please let me know. Jim jal at gonix.com larsen_jim at tandem.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 22:51:34 +0200 From: diagen at netvision.net.il (Nir Navot) Subject: Sparging Techniques Poll - RESULTS The Sparging Techniques Poll is done and the results are: A unanimous vote (10 out of 10 responses) for sparging while keeping the level of the liquid above the grain. The alternative - collect wort, then sparge, is used by some brewers making special brews with a very high SG. Thanks to all the responders. Nir Navot Rosh Ha'ayin, Israel \_ \_ \_\_\_\_ \_\_\_ \_\_\_ \_\_\_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_\_ \_ \_\_\_\_ \_ \_ \_\_\_ \_\_\_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_\_\_\_ \_ \_ \_ \_\_\_ \_\_\_ WeBrew in HeBrew!!! (and ascii) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 16:29:10 -0500 From: ddavison at earth.execpc.com (Dennis Davison) Subject: Aerating Stones / Real Ale Fest Aerating Stones: Digester and Digetites, I'm looking for various sources of aerating stones. Currently I have the Liquid Bread and soon to have the Brewers Resource, plus I have an el cheapo that I picked up from my surplus store. I'm looking for other sources. These will be used in a comprehensive study on aerating and I need as many sources as possible to verify differences. Real Ale Fest: Sorry to one and all. Plans for the fest fell by the wayside last spring when we had numorous other projects in the works. At the beginning of summer my time was taken up and is still being taken up with the BJCP, so RAF has had to take another back burner. We do have hopes of bringing it to life next year, so stay tuned. We want to do it right, not half baked. Dennis Davison ddavison at earth.execpc.com BJCC Midwest Region Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 16:42:23 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: sour mega lager yeast wheat scum > From: howe at shemp.appmag.com (Aubrey Howe) > Subject: Irish WYEAST Bombs? > Now for the real question: Will the bottles be OK? Did I just > create two cases of bombs? Is this why they call the 22 ounce bottles > "Bombers?" I had a batch ferment clean through so fast that I was convinced it had gone dormant and I just let it sit for a month or so. It's the best stout I've made. What were your OG & FG? > From: dipalma at sky.com (Jim Dipalma) > Subject: Re: scum skimming, pumps > Haven't noticed any negative effects on head retention from doing this. My > beers are fine in that regard, and I've developed great 3-point range! You're sick, Jim, I like that. I'll have to try skimming scum next time. I've always let it fall back in, but I don't often have clarity problems. > From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> > Subject: Wheat extract > Actually, wheat malt has the highest extract potential. The difficulty > arises in getting this extract out of the mash and lauter tun and > into the brew kettle. Thats why in practice 70% wheat is generally > accepted as the upper limit where one can still have acceptable > lauter results. We've talked this out a bit in private e-mail. Maybe someone else who's done 100% wheat batches can back me up on this, but I did _not_ get full conversion with 100% wheat malt. Not sure how much starch was left, but there was enough to blacken my iodine. I did not do any protein or acid rest, and didn't crush the stuff very thoroughly, all of which Jim mentioned might contribute to incomplete conversion. Despite that, I can't recommend 100% wheat highly enough. Yum! > From: kuebeler at PICARD.tamu.edu (Mark Kuebeler) > Subject: Wyeast 1338 European Ale yeast > the wort may have gotten down below > 60^F for the first six hours. Could this have caused the yeast to go > dormant or slowed them down, even with a higher pitching rate? It might have slowed them down a bit, but probably wouldn't knock them out. I used this yeast once and I recall it as having been a bit slow, but it was pretty tasty in the end. > From: "Lee A. Menegoni" <lmenegoni at nectech.com> > Subject: RTP yeast cultures > I have no financial intrest in the venture though I would like to see it be > successful. Perhaps if you passed on an address or a phone number . . . > From: rapaport at srvware.serviceware.com > Subject: Lagering Advice Please > > Anybody know what the right way to do it is? I don't know "the" right way to do anything, but I'd be more inclined to believe your book. I'm paranoid about esters in my lagers, so I wouldn't let the temp ever go above 60. > Also -- I think the warmest I can get my refrigerator is 44 degrees. > Will this work? Slowly, very slowly. But, I'd bet it will turn out worth the wait. > From: Benwrtr at aol.com > Subject: Re: Mega Craft Breweries > So megas like A-B will gladly leave the actual brewing operations of the > micros alone, as long as they can siphon off their share of the profits. But, if they begin to worry about the profits, they'll be much quicker to reduce the quality than your neighborhood microbrewer. Still, as long as consumers have money to spend on quality beer, someone will have quality beer to sell. > From: rjbourc at nmia.com (Roy Bourcier) > Subject: Sour Mash Beer Recipes? > Cool to 90=B0F and stir in yogurt culture Where do you get yogurt culture? Any truth to Papazian's claim that the husks of malted barley are chock full of usable lacto bugs? -R Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 14:55:36 -0700 (PDT) From: sprmario at netcom.com (Mario Robaina) Subject: Soda Kegs in LA area Subject says it all, except for the fact that I'm looking for them, not offering them. Anyone know a cheap (read FREE or close to it) source of soda kegs in the Los Angeles area? Just made the jump to a draft system and am looking to expand the brewery already. Will travel. Here's a possible offer: if someone can find me a good deal on 3-4 kegs, I'll return one full of homebrew... Any takers? -John Girard (masquerading as sprmario at netcom.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 11:00 EDT From: CSS2 at OAS.PSU.EDU (SPEAKER.CURTIS) Subject: re: scum skimming I think I have to disagree with Jim Dipalma regarding scum skimming: I always skim the scum off my mead, but never beer. If these high-MW proteins have been denatured (cooked) and form scum, they most likely will end up in your hot/cold break and will not contribute significantly to protein haze in your beer. I have made some suprisingly clear beers without skimming the scum; irish moss does help, however. Just another data point Curt css2 at oas.psu.edu "Life's too short to drink cheap beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 19:43:53 -0400 From: MClarke950 at aol.com Subject: RE: using lactic acid Curtis (css2 at oas.psu.edu) wanted to know about lactic acid: >I received some pure (well 88%) lactic acid the other day by mail >order and suddenly realized that I'm really not sure how much or >how to use it. <snip> >* how much? a teaspoon? a tablespoon? an ounce? no clue.... >* when to add? during boil? post boil? at bottling? The following has been copied from Phil Seitz' series on Brewing Belgian Beer: >> Mild acidity is a classic feature of a good white beer. The >>brave can attempt a lactic fermentation, but there's an easy >>shortcut: add a very small quantity of 88% lactic acid to your >>beer at bottling time. Amounts between 5 and 15 milliliters per >>5 gallons work well. Be aware that the acid will need some time >>to blend with teh other flavors. This usually takes 1-2 months. >any help would be appreciated. FWIW, I'm trying to make a Flanders >Brown and want the sour, lactic character in it without adding yogurt >(not in my beer, thank you) or doing a sour mash. Flanders Brown has a very complex taste, you will be able to sour it following the above method, but it might not give you everything you need. Aeoubrau or Yeastlabs might have some cultures that might be closer to the mark. Cheers, Mike Mike Clarke Seattle, WA. USA Email: MClarke950 at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 20:06:55 -0400 From: MClarke950 at aol.com Subject: Hop Plug Utilization? Greetings! I've been brewing mainly with whole hops in the past and just recently started using hop plugs (compressed whole leaf hops). The reason for the switch was to use traditional (British and German) hop varieties in a fresh form. The compressed hops are supposed to oxidise slower, because being compressed there is less of the hop mass is exposed to air. Similiar to pellets, but still have whole leaves in the kettle. Now the question, has anyone gotten lower alpha acid utilization from this type of hop? How about aroma? I was un-impressed in both of these departments. One thought that made sense had to do with the amount of time it took for the plug to break down into individual leaves or cones, during that time not all the hops are in contact with the beer. Anyone have any experiences with plugs for boiling/taste/aroma additions. Comments welcome. Cheers, Mike Mike Clarke Seattle, WA. USA Email: MClarke950 at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 20:36:57 -0400 From: SoarMoose at aol.com Subject: Re: Lag time in yeast In a message dated 95-08-30 04:15:04 EDT, you write: > >Has anyone else experienced long lag times with this yeast? The first >time I used it, I just pitched the contents of the smack pack and it >took almost 36 hours for signs of fermentation to appear. I used this >yeast again, this time pitching from a 1 quart starter that was >prepared the day before. It's been 24 hours since I pitched from the >starter and nothing has happened yet. YES YES YES...I had the same problem. I grew it up in a starter the second time and got it to kick in about 20 hours (slowly at first) but it just didn't work as well as I liked. I figured I was just spoiled because the yeast I usually use is so vigorous. I'm glad someone else has this problem too. I pitched at about 72 degrees (F) andI grew my second starter for 2 days. I think it's just slow yeast and I'll probably give it more time to grow up next time before I pitch it (probably about 4 days or until I get some major signs of activity) -Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 23:41:23 -0400 From: BixMeister at aol.com Subject: Re: Brewing Stand I'm in the midst of building a 3 tier brewing system. Does anyone have any suggestions for building the stand. I already have one burner for boiling with its own stand. The remainder burners will have to be incorporated into the 1st and 2nd tiers. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 95 22:37:20 PDT From: NAFRANK at pop03.ca.us.ibm.net (Nicholas A. Franke) Subject: All-Wheat Mash Schedule In a prior issue of HBD, I responded to a post by Bill Bunning regarding all-wheat beers by posting my grain bill for a nearly all-wheat hefeweizen that I made. In HBD #1817 (August 29), Steve Alexander responded and asked me to post the mash schedule for that beer. Here it is: GANZ HEFEWEIZEN 7.25# German wheat malt 2.5# Canadian wheat malt .75# German caramel malt (10L) 1# Wheat flakes 4 qts. Rice hulls SINGLE DECOCTION MASH MASH-IN: Grain added to 13 quarts of water at 100 F and held for 5 mins.; PROTEIN REST: Mash raised to 128 F in 17 mins.; rest for 25 mins. at 128 F; DECOCTION: Thick, 5 quart decoction pulled; raised to 160 F in 12 mins.; starch conversion rest for 25 mins.; brought to boil in 6 mins. and boiled for 30 mins.; returned to main mash; STARCH CONVERSION: Mash brought to 148 F and held for 10 mins.; raised to 160 F and held for 25 mins.; MASH-OUT: Mash raised to 170 F and held for 10 mins. Steve Alexander pointed out that the extraction efficiency was only about 70%. While the extraction efficiency was low (actually about 75%), it needs to be put into perspective. I don't want anyone to be put off of all-wheat grists by my misleadingly low extraction efficiency. At the time I made this beer I was only getting an extraction efficiency of about 85% even with a "normal" barley malt mash. Therefore, the 75% efficiency I experienced with this all-wheat grist was only about 11% less than what I normally obtained. I have since corrected my extraction problem, which was caused by draining the wort from the lauter tun too quickly. For an excellent discussion of this dynamic, which helped me to cure my problem, see the article by John J. Palmer and Paul Prozinski, "Fluid Dynamics--A Simple Key to the Mastery of Efficient Lautering," in the July/August 1995 edition of Brewing Techniques magazine (vol. 3 no. 4). I have not had the opportunity to use an all-wheat grist since correcting my lautering problem. However, I still believe that an all-wheat mash is going to have a slightly lower extraction efficiency (approximately 11% in my case) than a mash contaning significant amounts of barley. IMHO, the difference in the beer well-justifies the use of a little more grain. NAF. nafrank at ibm.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 08:18:35 -0400 From: BF3B8RL at TPLANCH.BELL-ATL.COM Subject: Strawbeery Teaser Hope my description of this low FG beer lives up to its teasing: STRAWBERRYS N' CREAM ALE (5 Gallons): 1.5# Clover Honey 1.0# Munton & Fiston Extra-Light Malt Extract 1.5# Pilsner Malt 1.0# Klages malt 1/2# Belgian Biscuit Malt 2.5# Pale malt 1/2# Cara-Pils Malt 1.0# Corn Flakes 3/4c Corn Sugar (Prime) Ozs Hop Variety 1.00 Willamette (4 HBUs, 15 IBUs) 1 t Irish Moss 1 pkg American Ale Wyeast w/ 6oz starter 10# Pureed Frozen Strawberrys (in secondary) pasturized at 160-67 for 1hr. 1.5oz Strawberry extract at bottling Pectic Enzyme in secondary to clear 2/3# Lactose at bottling OG = 1.049 FG=0.999 Boil Corn Flakes for 30 minutes in 5Q; Protien rest Grains for 30 minutes at 126 in 5Q; Combine for Infusion Mash at 153 for 40 minutes; Raise to 156 for 50 minutes; Sparge with 8Q at 170. Please note that 10# of pureed berries is about 1.5Ga of slurp! Use the biggest fermenter you can find. You lose about 1.5-2 Ga of liquid (remember you added 1.5 already) racking the beer off the slurry. This beer had a harsh character after a month, but is very nice now after about 3 mos. The berry aroma is strong, but the flavor is delicate and only a little pink color comes through. - Chas Peterson Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 08:37:25 -0400 From: DONBREW at aol.com Subject: replacement taps Roger Deschner writes: >Go to your local hardware store and get a "sillcock", which is an >ordinary garden faucet, made of brass. You want the kind without the >flanges*, and which has a 1/2" (inside diameter, "standard trade size") >male connector on its rear end. Then you need a brass 1/2" size locknut, I would suggest using a boiler drain rather than a sillcock. The difference being the sillcock has a soil trap and the drain is straight thru. Some stores carry these made out of cellulose, CPVC, vinyl as well as brass. Also, if you can't find brass nuts, go to the electrical dept. at the hardware store and get galvanized conduit nuts. I have been using galvanized parts inside my tun and boiler for a couple of years now and am still alive, the only trouble is some of the really cheap ones will rust after awhile. Don Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 08:37:29 -0400 From: DONBREW at aol.com Subject: The Hunter fix Wallie writes: > (unrelated topic) I wouldn't mention this obvious (to me) fix for the >Hunter thermostat units, but I've seen so many failure reports.......Why not >return them to the store? It's obviously not fit for the purpose for which it >was intended, the implied warrantee that goes with every consumer good sold in >this country. If mail order, or some other problem, then return them to Hunter. The quick and dirty answer is: They are no longer manufactured, for a couple of years. Don Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 08:48:57 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Freshness Peaks in Beer Steven W. Schultz <swschult at cbdcom.apgea.army.mil> says > > I am noticing a definite pattern: my beers often taste very good > after 2-3 weeks in the bottle, but after not much more than 4-5 weeks, > they are in decline. To which Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> adds > All of my beers follow this pattern, also, but not with > the same timing. In fact, the vast majority of my > beers, IMO, peak at about 6 weeks, and aren't "losing > it" until 8 or 10. I do notice the hops starting to > peter out, but I'm not much of a hophead, so that may be > some of the difference. While it is normal for lagers to peak and fall off, my experience is that ales, especially medium to high gravity ones, will evolve and improve. They often get drier and more carbonated as the slowly fermenting sugars do ferment. They will lose some hop bitterness and aroma but gain in mellowness and what wine drinkers call "bottle complexity." It sounds to me like Steven especially may have some problems with oxidation - either hot side aeration (HSA) and or handling oxidation at racking/bottling. Attention to these may improve the situation. I have enjoyed ales that were years old. Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1820, 09/01/95