HOMEBREW Digest #1892 Fri 24 November 1995

Digest #1891 Digest #1893

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Manifold Fluid Dynamics (John Palmer)
  Thanks / Fitting source (claytonj)
  Draining (krkoupa)
  tire valve carbonators (Charles Wettergreen)
  O2 PET permeation ("Dr. Larry Allen")
  Conversion check (MR SCOTT H MOBERG)
  1995 THIRSTY Results (Wolfe)
  malt mill (ESMPD)" <gcunning at Census.GOV>
  Competition Announcement (Alan Folsom)
  Electric vs Gas vs Propane (Denis Barsalo)
  (no subject) (Ken Johnsen)
  Brita pH/Yeast (A. J. deLange)
  Re: myces = fungus (Richard Seyler)
  Freezing yeast/DMS and aeration/allgrain water/yeast when priming (Algis R Korzonas)
  More forced carbonation vs. natural. (Mark E. and Diane Stull)
  Propane alternatives ("Tomlinson, James")
  re: Philmill, SA Ads (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
  Airlocks (Norman Pyle)
  Mead (J. Todd Hoopes)
  A Vote for Fritz... impeach koch (Ken Schroeder)
  Well water (MR SCOTT H MOBERG)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 08:34:54 -0700 (MST) From: johnj at primenet.com (John Palmer) Subject: Manifold Fluid Dynamics Dave Ludwig makes some interesting insights into Lautering behavior: >With water in the tun, can't argue with that too much but the grain bed significantly changes the pressure drop across the slits which, in my opinion invalidates any area matching (too many variables: type of grain, crush, grain bed settling, etc). Like it was said in the rest of the post, the false bottom design seems to offer the best choice as far as distributing flow and preventing channeling. But I think the slotted manifold with slots downward offers some clogging resistance. Picture this; horizontal holes trap husks until the holes are blocked with the filtering husks. Well, I dont think the area matching arguement is totally invalidated; you are probably correct that it is more complicated than just area, but the point of our BT article was that to obtain uniform flow thru the slits/holes in any lautering device, the outflow resistance needs to be greater than the inflow. Therefore you need to provide as much inflow area as practical, and make the valve at the outflow the control for the flow rate. To this end, the area arguement certainly helps. and >I believe that, as with the false bottom, layers of filter material are established above the lautering device. With the false bottom holes, it's easy to see how a piece of husk with some flour piled on top would stop flow (stuck sparge). With described manifold, the flour is trapped between layers all the way to the bottom. The filtered liquid can channel across the bottom of the tun and exit up through the manifold slots on the bottom.This is the key. My opinion is the manifold is less prone to clogging. With a properly saturated, fluid mash, the grist will stratify (not sure if thats the proper term...) such that the heavier particles and husks will settle toward the bottom providing the filter bed. Greg Noonan has a illustration of this in his book, Brewing Lager Beer. If you stir your mash during, you will facilitate this alluvial stratification (any soil scientists in the house? Dave?). My point is that False Bottom or Manifold, the grainbed will be the same. However, you are probably correct that by facing the manifold slits down, you allow better flow across the bottom of the cooler to the outflow than you might otherwise get thru the false bottom. and > I added a standpipe to the center manifold which extends up through a hole in the cooler lid that I use to underlet the grain bed when adding hot water. But the standpipe needs to be capped off when the bed get compacted so as to get max gravity benefit from the fluid column in the exit tube. Performance? With 2 or 6 row barley malts, flow is too fast so I throttle it back to get about an hour sparge. My friend Paul Prozinski talked about this when we were preparing the article, If you use an open standpipe on your outflow, you can be assured of uniform flow by watching the water level in the standpipe. If the water level is sucked way down, then the inflow capability is being exceeded and channeling is occuring in the grainbed. If the level is equal or only a bit under the water level in the tun, then the inflow capability of the lautering device is not being exceeded and the flow thru the grainbed is more uniform. I forget exactly why we decided to not go into this in the article, perhaps because most brewers dont use standpipes and because the area/valve model should remove the need for standpipe monitering. Longer sparges definitly improve extraction. John John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P johnj at primenet.com Huntington Beach, California Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 11:21:32 -0500 From: claytonj at cc.tacom.army.mil Subject: Thanks / Fitting source Howdy, Due to my unexpected vacation (furlough), I haven't been able to send out the summary and thanks to the nine folks who responded to my question of whether to add the grains or water first in my new Gott w/ copper manifold mash tun. Domenick, Neal, Dave L., Stan, Bruce, and ? (Sorry, the message header was deleted when I saved the message from ccmail) said they add the grains to the water. ? (sorry again) said adding water to the grain would cause stuck runoff. Neal and Bruce suggested it was beneficial to preheat the tun to get more consistent results. Jeff, Dave H., and Phil all add the water to the grains. Jeff suggested to lay foundation water to fill the manifold but that adding the grain to all of the water may denature the enzymes of the first grains to hit the water. Dave H. grinds the grain the night before to save time on brew day. I found a good source for SS fittings in my area, the local hot rod specialty store. I used a 3/8" flare SS bulkhead fitting and a bung from a Faas Frisch (sp?) mini keg to replace the stock gasket in the Gott. I put some Teflon tape on the threads of the bulkhead fitting and screwed it into the bung (very tight fit) and it works great. No leaks. Many thanks to the guy who suggested the mini keg bung!! Now I need my boiling keg and burner and I'm ready to go (can you say can't wait for Christmas?). Many thanks to all the folks who responded to my question. I'll report back after the first of the year on how my first mash goes. Cheers, Joe Clayton (ak753 at detroit.freenet.org (preferred) or claytonj at cc.tacom.army.mil) Farmington Hills, MI USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 08:40:40 PST From: krkoupa at ccmail2.srv.PacBell.COM Subject: Draining Thanks to those who helped me troubleshoot the problems with my new false bottom. As it turns out, priming the outlet tube / pump wasn't really the problem. And the false bottom wasn't really the problem either, although the problem occurred when I installed it. The problem was that the intake to the outlet tube was sitting flush on the bottom of the tank. Nothing could physically get into the tube. So now my question is how to prevent this from happening again. I could shorten the tube, or I could continue to let the tube rest on the bottom and serrate/bevel/slit/perforate the opening. Any ideas? | __________|___ | | _______ ___ outlet tube to pump | grain | | grain | |-------| |-------| --- false bottom |\______|__|______/| intake tube flush on tank bottom | | | | |-------| |-------| Shortened intake tube (risky but open). |\________________/| Tube *could* bend down (no support) or pop up out of the false bottom | | | | |-------| |-------| Tube sits on bottom (stronger). |\______XXXX______/| serrate/bevel/slit/perforate intake tube Thanks! Ken Koupal krkoupa at ccmail2.pacbell.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 11:52 CST From: chuckmw at mcs.com (Charles Wettergreen) Subject: tire valve carbonators To: homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com In HBD #1889 korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis Korzonas) wrote about using a rubber tire valve as a home-made carbonator (tm): HH> My concern with this system (and the first I saw of it was about three HH> years ago -- Randy Mosher brought one he made to a CBS meeting) is that tire HH> valve stem is not made of food grade material. In fact, if you smell it, HH> you can definately smell that butyl rubber (I think) aroma -- like a tire. HH> While there will be little contact between the rubber and the beer, there HH> will be contact between the headspace and any aromatics the rubber happens HH> to emit. On a big, dark, heavy beer, probably not noticable, but on a I don't know if tire valves are made from butyl rubber, but I believe that Al's right that the aroma may permeate your beer. There's a better way to make one of these without the rubber problem, however. Go to any tire store that sells magnesium (mag) wheels. They don't install rubber valves with these wheels, they use tire valves made out of stainless steel. They're only a couple of bucks, are threaded, and have a flat flange on the bottom which should easily fit inside a PET bottle cap. Chuck chuckmw at mcs.com Geneva, IL * RM 1.3 00946 * Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 10:11:35 -0800 From: "Dr. Larry Allen" <docsbrew at aol.com> Subject: O2 PET permeation Regarding the use of PET bottles, the discussion has gone like this... >>Seems PET is gas-permeable such that a bottle >>will go flat after several weeks. >It's the other way around. A lot of CO2 won't leak out, >but O2 will leak in. Now, how does THAT work?? If the inside of the bottle is under that kind of pressure from the CO2, how can O2 permeate it?? I don't get it. It seems to me that if the bottle is pressurized (and I've felt PET bottles, and they're like rock), then no gas could get in. Please explain... Doc. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 12:34:32 EST From: HYMT59A at prodigy.com (MR SCOTT H MOBERG) Subject: Conversion check Hello, A couple of questions. My local Homebrew shop sold me an Iodophor to check for starch conversion during mashing. I also made up an iodine/potassium iodide solution we use in the lab to check for the presence of starch in various substances. This is 5g iodine dissolved in a solution of 7.5g potassium iodide in 10 ml of water, then diluted to 1 liter. When I use my lab solution for conversion check, it continues to turn dark well past the point when the iodophor is telling me conversion is complete. If I go by the iodophor, I usually have conversion in about 1 hour. According to the iodine/potassium iodide I don't have full conversion for 1.5 - 2.0 hours. Which one is right? I have been using the latter so far. Have been achieving 78 - 80 % eff. using a 10 gal Gott, but I'm not sure if too much mash time is detrimental. Anyone have a good source for an accurate and reasonably priced scale for hops, aside from an electronic balance which I'm too cheap to buy? Anyone have a source to buy Michael Jackson's "The Beer Hunter" on CD ROM? Thanks for the help. PS. How about a two day vacation from the HBD for Thanksgiving, I'm 75 pages behind, can't keep up!! ;-) Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 12:43 CST From: Wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Subject: 1995 THIRSTY Results WARNING--LONG POST ========== 1995 THIRSTY Homebrew Competition Results On November 18th, The Honorable Iowa River Society of Talented Yeastmasters held its second annual fall homebrew competition in Iowa City, Iowa. A total of 218 beer and mead from brewers in 13 states were entered into this year's competition. The winners of each category are shown below. American Lager & American Wheat 1st--Duane Maki THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA 2nd--Duane Maki THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA 3rd--Duane Maki THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA American Pale Ale 1st--Eric Grugger CIBA Decatur, IL 2nd--Duane Maki THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA 3rd--John Denny THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA Barley Wine & Strong Ale 1st--Peter Diltz CRAZY Coggon, IA 2nd--Steve Piatz MBA Eagan, MN 3rd--Steve Piatz MBA Eagan, MN Belgian Ale 1st--Dave Schinker THIRSTY Wappelo, IA 2nd--Greg & Madeline Chaney KCB Prairie Village, KS 3rd--Eddie Brian THIRSTY Iowa City, IA Berliner Weisse, German Dunkel Weizen & Weizenbock 1st--Dennis Davison CBS Greenfield, WI 2nd--Michael Murphy RALF Belvue, NE 3rd--Ed Wolfe & Carol Liguori THIRSTY Iowa City, IA Bock 1st--Steve Solik None San Jose, CA 2nd--Tom McDaniel THIRSTY Coralville, IA 3rd--John Denny THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA Brown Ale 1st--Bob & Kurt Feller THIRSTY Iowa City, IA 2nd--Duane Maki THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA 3rd--Greg & Madeline Chaney KCB Prairie Village, KS Brown Porter & German Dark Lager 1st--Michael Murphy RALF Belvue, NE 2nd--Duane Maki THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA 3rd--Bob & Kurt Feller THIRSTY Iowa City, IA California Common & India Pale Ale 1st--None awarded 2nd--Ed Wolfe & Carol Liguori THIRSTY Iowa City, IA 3rd--Gary Lloyd THF Topeka, KS Classic Dry Stout 1st--Greg & Madeline Chaney KCB Prairie, Village, KS 2nd--Ed Wolfe & Carol Liguori THIRSTY Iowa City, IA 3rd--Eddie Brian THIRSTY Iowa City, IA Continental Light Lager 1st--Duane Maki THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA 2nd--John Clausen None Coralville, IA 3rd--Jeff Clark None Cedar Rapids, IA English Bitter 1st--Tom Keith CBS Evanston, IL 2nd--Mark Kellums CIBA Mt. Zion, IL 3rd--Robert Ward None Dekalb, IL English Pale Ale 1st--John Denny THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA 2nd--Scott Kruger CRAZY Marion, IA 3rd--Tom Keith CBS Evanston, IL Foreign, Imperial, & Sweet Stout 1st--J. Reefe Jr. & J. Reefe III None Omaha, NE 2nd--Tim Kennel None Iowa City, IA 3rd--Steve Solik None San Jose, CA Fruit Beer & Lambic 1st--Michael Murphy RALF Belvue, NE 2nd--Ginger Wotring SLB St. Louis, MO 3rd--Duane Maki THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA Fruit Mead 1st--Michael Murphy RALF Belvue, NE 2nd--F. Santora & R. Penrod ZB Fairbanks, AK 3rd--Ed Wolfe & Carol Liguori THIRSTY Iowa City, IA German & Scottish Ale 1st--Duane Maki THIRSTY Cedar Rapids, IA 2nd--Delores Thompson THIRSTY Oxford, IA 3rd--Eddie Brian THIRSTY Iowa City, IA German Weizen 1st--Mark Groshek UF Denver, CO 2nd--Greg & Madeline Chaney KCB Prairie Village, KS 3rd--Ed Wolfe & Carol Liguori THIRSTY Iowa City, IA Herb & Traditional Mead 1st--Suzette Smith MM Madison, NJ 2nd--Jim Clayton THIRSTY Iowa City, IA 3rd--Jim Clayton THIRSTY Iowa City, IA Herb/Smoke/Specialty Beer 1st--Ted O'Neil SLB St. Louis, MO 2nd--Mark Granner None Iowa City, IA 3rd--Gregg Gelbach None Olathe, KS Robust Porter 1st--Robert L. Ward None Dekalb, IL 2nd--L Liebergen & D Homewood None West Branch, IA 3rd--Steve Piatz et. al. MBA Eagan, MN Specialty Beer 1st--Gregg Gelbach None Olathe, KS 2nd--Tom Keith CBS Evanston, IL 3rd--Wayne Bowman THIRSTY Iowa City, IA HM--Chris Kaufman DBC Derby, KS HM--Tom Keith CBS Evanston, IL Vienna/Marzen/Oktoberfest 1st--Richard Hardin None Iowa City, IA 2nd--Steve Solik None San Jose, CA 3rd--Wayne Swiers ZB North Pole, AK Best of Show Beer 1st--Peter Diltz, Strong Scotch Ale, CRAZY, Cedar Rapids, IA 2nd--Duane Maki, American Cream Ale, THIRSTY, Cedar Rapids, IA 3rd--Eric Grugger, English Pale Ale, CIBA, Decatur, IL Best of Show Mead 1st--Suzette Smith, Lemon/Ginger Melomel, Morristown Mashers, Madison, NJ 2nd--Jim Clayton, Pepper Metheglin, THIRSTY, Iowa City, IA 3rd--Michael Murphy, Kiwi Cranberry Melomel, RALF, Belvue, NE Best of Homebrew 1st--Wayne Bowman, THIRSTY, Iowa City, IA 2nd--Tom McInerney, Non-affiliated, Cedar Rapids, IA 3rd--Wayne Bowman, THIRSTY, Iowa City, IA Special Awards Up-and-Coming Local Brewer(s)--Bob & Kurt Feller, THIRSTY, Iowa City, IA Most Entries--20 from Duane Maki, THIRSTY, Cedar Rapids, IA DBC = Derby Brew Club KCB = Kansas City Biermeisters MM = Morristown Mashers SLB = St. Louis Brews THF = Topeka Hall of Foamers UF = Unfermentables ZB = Zymurgists Borealis Sponsors American Mead Association, Colorado Junction, CO (800-693-MEAD) (1-year membership for 2nd BOS Mead) Home Brew Shop, Coralville, IA (319-351-4487) ($150 in certificates for 1st, 2nd, & 3rd BOS Beer) Just Hops, Mt. Zion, IL (217-864-4216) (1.75 pounds of hops for 1st, 2nd, & 3rd Best of Homebrew) Mazer Mead Competition, Ann Arbor, MI (800-742-2110) (Unlimited entries for 1st BOS Mead) Millstream Brewing, Amana, IA (319-622-3672) (beer, jacket, & mug for 1st, 2nd, & 3rd Best of Homebrew) Yeast Culture Kit Co., MI (800-742-2110) ($20 gift certificate for Up-and-Coming Local Brewers) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 16:02:00 -0500 (EST) From: "Jerry Cunningham (ESMPD)" <gcunning at Census.GOV> Subject: malt mill John, I got my Malt Mill (it's awesome, by the way) from this place: The Charleston Beer Works 845-D Savannah Hwy Charleston, SC 29407 Brewing Help & Local Orders (803) 571-4748 Toll-free Order Line 800-225-2910 email to jquigley at homebrew.com - ------- The price was $99.00 _including shipping_ !! He doesn't actually stock them, but he calls Jack and has it shipped direct. Mine arrived in less than a week, if I remember correctly. Good luck, Jerry Cunningham - Annapolis, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 13:26:20 -0800 From: folsom at ix.netcom.com (Alan Folsom) Subject: Competition Announcement Following is the announcement for my club's (The Keystone Hops, cute eh?) first contest. I hope y'all will support us, and help make it a good one. I am not an official organizer, but if you would rather avoid telephone contact, and address electronic requests for information, or registering for judging, I will accept your information and pass it on. Thanks for your indulgence. Al Folsom - ---- The Keystone Hops Present WAR OF THE WORTS 1st Annual Home Brew Competition Saturday, January 20, 1996 9:30 A.M. The Buckingham Mountain Brewery and Restaurant, Lahaska PA (215) 794-7302 War of the Worts 1996 is an American Homebrew Association sanctioned competition and provides you an opportunity to have your homemade beer and mead evaluated by BJCP registered judges. Prizes and awards will be given for beers placing first, second, and third in each category, and for Best of Show. Competition Guidelines and Entry Requirements: + WAR OF THE WORTS 1996 is open to ALL home brewers. + All beers must be noncommercial in nature and produced at home. + The entry fee is $6 for the first entry, and $5 for each subsequent entry accompanying the first. Checks can be made payable to Keystone Homebrew Supply. + Submit three 10-16 ounce bottles for each entry. + Bottles may be brown or green glass, and must be free of any labels,raised glass designs, etched logos, or other identifying marks. + Entries with Grolsh style swing caps will NOT be accepted. + A completed entry/recipe form must accompany each entry. If entering more than one beer, make sure the correct entry/recipe form accompanies each entry. + A bottle ID form must be attached to each bottle with a rubber band. + Beers will be judged according to the category/subcategory in which they are entered. The style guidelines for each category and subcategory are included in this packet. + It is the responsibility of the brewer to decide which is the appropriate category for their beer. + Entries will be accepted in the Beer and Mead categories. Saki entries will be enjoyed but not judged. + Categories with fewer than six entries will be combined with another category. Your beer will be judged according to the category in which it was entered. + Entries which do not meet these entry requirements will be disqualified. + Any disputes that arise during the competition will be settled by the competition organizers. + All judges and Stewards are requested to arrive by 9:15 AM. Entry Deadlines: Entries will be accepted from 12/28/95 through 1/13/96. Late entries will not be accepted under any circumstances. Drop Off Locations: Entries may be dropped off at any of the following locations: Keystone Homebrew Supply Brew Ha Ha 779 Bethlehem Pike RD2 Box 2519-1 Route 309 & North Wales Road Route 222 Montgomeryville, PA 18936 Fleetwood, PA 19522 (215) 855-0100. (610) 944-0500 Contact: Jason Harris Contact: Randy or Kathy Home Sweet Homebrew Brew By You 2008 Sansom Street 3504 Cottman Ave. Philadelphia, PA 19103 Philadelphia, PA (215) 569-9469 (215) 335-BREW Contact: George or Nancy Contact: Don Beer Unlimited (2 Locations) B & B Homebrew Great Valley Shopping Center 3488 York Road Route 30 & Route 401 PO Box 280 Malvern, PA Furlong, PA 18925 (610) 889-0905, Contact: Jim (215) 794-7811 515 Fayette Street 1-800-572-BEER Conshohocken, PA (610) 397-0666, Contact: Jim Mail in Entries: Mail in Entries should be sent to the Keystone Homebrew Supply location. This is the only location accepting mail in entries. Mail in entries must be received by the entry deadlines. Judges and Stewards: If you would like to be a Judge or Steward, please contact Ed Rama, Judge Coordinator at (215) 441-8807 or Keystone Homebrew Supply at (215) 855-0100 for details. Lodging information is available upon request, contact Joe Mezo at (215) 230-4198. Competition Organizers: Please contact one of the competition organizers if you have any questions. Joe Mezo Jason Harris (215) 230-4198 (215) 855-0100 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 16:56:49 -0500 From: denisb at CAM.ORG (Denis Barsalo) Subject: Electric vs Gas vs Propane OK, OK... So I broke down and bought a beautiful Vollrath 38.5 quart (40 liters) Stainless Steel brewpot. I got it at quite a bargain I believe!? $190.CAN (137.50 U.S. approx.). Now, how to fill it and keep it at a rolling boil with the lid off on my electric stove??!!?? I have one of those stoves that doesn't have coils, but a flat metal element that doesn't get red with heat. So far I can keep approx. 5 gallons going at a rolling boil, but the lid is partly on. If I can convince my wife to get a gas stove, will I *really* see a big difference? I mean, will I be able to boil 6 gallons of wort down to 5.5 gallons at a rolling boil and not wait for an hour before the boil starts? What about those outdoor cookers everybody is using. Can I use one when it's -10F outside? Can they be modified to be used with natural gas? (That way I could use it inside) Thanks Denis Barsalo Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 18:27:17 -0800 From: Ken Johnsen <kbjohns at escape.com> Subject: (no subject) Please send me the homebrew digest. My email adrress is kbjohns at escape.com Thanks - -- Ken Johnsen Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 20:05:33 -0500 From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: Brita pH/Yeast In #1888 Bill Watt comented that water from his Brita filter measured pH 5. This is probably because the water contains some carbonate that was not removed by the ion exchange process. Upon standing, CO2 will escape to the air and the pH will increase somewhat (5.2 - 5.4 or so). Upon boiling and cooling the water should measure close to 7 but upon standing exposed to the atmosphere the pH will creep back into the 5's as CO2 dissolves from the air. Wade Wallinger had some questions on starters. The fololowing answers are my personal opinions: Questios for the collective: 1. When stepping up, should the contents be re-aerated? Definitely. In fact aeration can be carried out multiple times between feedings. As long as nutrients (amino acids included) and oxygen are available yeast will stay in a growth phase (if glucose is relatively low). 2. When stepping up, should the ;iquid be decanted? Yes. Decant some of this liquid and taste it. See if you want this in your beer. 3. If not, does aerating introduce the potential for aldehydes? The byproducts of the growth phase are different (at least in relative proportions) from the byproducts of fermentation. The broth from a growing yeast culture does not make very good beer. 4. If not, should subsequent steps simply double the volume each time? After getting up to a couple of litres of starter simply decant and replace to maintain that volume. The object is to get the mass of viable yeast cells up. 5. Am I flaming the lip at the right step? Ideally, flame whenever a container is opened. 6. When starting a lager yeast, should it ferment at room temperature? Yes. It will produce an undesireable mixture of esters, fusels and aldehydes at the higher temperatures which is why you decant the liquid but the yeast will grow faster. 7. If so, will the resulting batch be estery? Not if you throw the liquid out. 8. How much starter to I need for a barleywine with 15# LME in 5 gallons? I'd say about 100 ml of thick paste ought to get you around 15-18E6 cells per ml which should be good for a barley wine. 9. IMSR I hope not. 10. any other comments? When using extract for yeast food it is a good idea to add some yeast nutrient/yeast starter/yeast hulls as extracts are often deficient in FAN. A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore! ajdel at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 13:30:53 -0500 (EST) From: Richard Seyler <tad at bimcore.emory.edu> Subject: Re: myces = fungus In digest #1889 (November 21, 1995), Russell Mast wrote: > Kids, it's time to brush up on your Latin. > > myces = fungus > > I'm pretty sure Brettano is a reference to Briton, but it might also be > some Latin reference for Belgium. Saccharo = sugar, btw. > > Come to think of it, maybe Myces is Greek. The Myceleum? Isn't that a > Greek thing? Or am I confused? Well, one of those two. > > Parthenomyces - the yeast of death. > > -R Not so fast there, Russell, while they may look like yeast, you are forgetting about the genera Streptomyces, Actinomyces, and Thermoactinomyces, (and I'll bet there are others that I can't think of) all of which are gloriously procaryotic. These are all filamentous bacteria. You can't always trust the name. While I am on the subject of microbes, has anyone ever tried pombe beer? I hear it is fermented with Schizosaccharomyces pombe. If it is palatable, does anyone have a brewing culture? recipes? It sounds foul, but hey, I won't knock it 'till I try it. --Tad <tad at bimcore.emory.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 15:03:27 CST From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) Subject: Freezing yeast/DMS and aeration/allgrain water/yeast when priming Ken writes: >Briefly, the common denominators of the three techniques look like this. > Make a starter (1 liter) and wait for high kreusen. Add sterile glycerol >(the original posting suggest microwaving for 60 sec) at the rate of 10-20% >(100 - 200 ml glycerol in 1 liter of starter). Mix well (swirling or >shaking). Cut up into bite-size portions (say 100 ml), into screw-top test >tubes or vials. Cap/stopper securely. Freeze quickly. I would suggest waiting till post-kraeusen. High-kraeusen is the point of lowest glycogen levels and the yeast will certainly need that coming out of their frozen slumber. Yeast store glycogen when they sense their sugar source depleating so that waiting till the yeast are just beginning to sediment (starter beginning to clear) would be the point at which the glycogen levels would be highest. Do you see any reason why you would not want the glycogen levels to be high? Comments from yeast geneticits? *** Bill writes: >This pump used to cavitate and areate the wort causing DMS Aeration of hot wort causes HSA, not DMS. Hot-Side Aeration gives sherrylike flavours and aromas, darkens the wort and shortens shelf life considerably. It does not increase DMS unless there's Obesumbacterium in the air ;^). *** Denis writes: >My problem is that my >brewpot can't hold all that water! The recipe calls for 1.75 gal. to start >mash, almost another gal. for stepping up to 150F, and another 3.5 gal. for >sparging. >Where could I cut back so that I could use my 4 gal. brewpot? I >thought I would use a bit less to start, say 1.5 gal., then step up the >mash by turning up the heat instead of adding boiling water, and then >finally, sparge with only 2.5 gal. Will this screw up the recipe? Am I >better off cutting back on the grain as well and just make a smaller batch? You can use direct heat to increase the temperature, so that's not a problem and when you add the sparge water you will be running off, so you don't need to have room for both the entire mash and all the sparge water. I'm assuming this is a partial-mash recipe since you couldn't get any more than about 4.5 gallons of runnings from that amount of water (maybe 5 gallons). Still, you won't get the right amount of yield from your grain if you cut back on the water and if you don't cut back, you still need room for the 5 gallons of runnings. What you propose would slightly mess up the recipe: you would not get as much out of your grain as Charlie did and subsequently have a much lower OG beer and then far too much bitterness for the OG. Big stainless steel pots are almost always available at restaurant surplus shops (those that buy up used equipment from restaurants when they go out of business) and will make your life as an allgrain brewer an order of magnitude easier. Actually, I use a 10 gallon stainless steel kettle for heating strike and sparge water and use a 8 gallon enamel kettle for mashing (EasyMasher(tm)). I can then run off directly into the kettle on the floor while an insulated bucket with a spigot holds the sparge water sitting on another bucket on the countertop next to the EasyMasher. Typically, I get about 32 pts/lb/g (or 5.2 gallons of 1.043 beer from 7 pounds of grain). *** Randy writes: >Why would one ever need to add yeast when priming with sugar? If you are making a very high alcohol beer, the yeast is pretty pooped-out and will take forever to carbonate if it does at all. I lagered a 1.074 OG beer in the secondary for three months at 45F and it carbonated just fine with no additioal yeast. Adding fresh yeast at bottling time is, however, a very popular technique among Belgian commercial brewers, but then again most Belgian beers are quite a bit stronger than the average US or UK or German beer. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at pubs.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 22:27:18 -0500 From: stull at fred.net (Mark E. and Diane Stull) Subject: More forced carbonation vs. natural. Okay, so it looks to me like we've decided that there is ultimately no qualitative difference in the bubbles between force-carbonated beer vs. naturally-carbonated beer. But this raises another question in my mind: are there advantages/disadvantages to one approach vs. the other? For example, does the extra aging time (presumably at or near room temperature) of naturally-carbonated beer benefit the beer? I mostly naturally-carbonate my kegged beers, but have been thinking that I could start drinking them sooner by force-carbonating. But then I got to thinking that maybe there were other trade-off's involved.... Mark Stull Jefferson, MD stull at fred.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 95 06:47:00 est From: "Tomlinson, James" <TomlinJa at ctls.sch.ge.com> Subject: Propane alternatives Kirk writes: >Over the course of a few years, I have shorted out a switch, ruined a >receptacle and the enamel top on my electric stove. The repair cost >for the switch alone would have more than paid for an outdoor propane >setup. Mother Nature, in Northern Maryland, seems to know how to >Rain on every weekend of the &^$ at # year, which severely limits >outdoor brewing possibilities (no garage, either...). With this out, >I am currently looking for an alternative, but have not found a >viable one yet. Unfortunately, my house is all electric and has no >natural gas hookup, which would be my first choice.... I've been mulling this over for some time. Propane is rather expensive. In addition to the propane burners that Walmart carries, they carry a nice 2 burner Coleman "white-gas" stove($40-45). The cost of white gas is about $3/gallon. The newer stoves state they can be run on unleaded gasoline ($ 1.0069 here). As soon as Christmas is over, I plan to purchase on of these for camping, and brewing. It may not help your situation (you must use these outdoors), but I thought I'd throw it on the table as a propane and electric alternative. Jim (No tag, is a _good_ tag) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 09:43 EST From: CSS2 at OAS.PSU.EDU (SPEAKER.CURTIS) Subject: re: Philmill, SA Ads I, too, would like to echo the praises of another HBDer and Dan Listermann for putting out a good quality, reasonably priced product. The Philmill is a well crafted, versatile grain mill that I think most folks would give a thumbs up to. After making extract + specialty grain beers for a year and a half, I have now graduated to partial mash recipes. For specialty grains, the put-the-grain-in-a-ziploc-bag-and-work-it-over-with-a-rolling-pin method was okay; but when you are looking at a couple pounds of belgian pilsner malt and want to get some kind of decent extraction rate, the rolling pin method simply will no longer cut it. I have only had the Philmill a few weeks, but I am a satisfied customer. Reasonable price, too (I paid $75). And has anyone else found themselves chuckling at the new series of Sam Adams<tm> television ads - the "Do you like beer?" ads! I find myself sitting there answering the rhetorical beer questions they pose: "Do you like beer?" [Duh...] "Do you have a favorite beer glass?" [doesn't everyone?] "When people argue over red or white wine, do you order beer?" [yep] "Do you know the difference between lager and ale?" [of course!] "Have you ever thought of making your own beer?" [No, I DO make my own beer!] "Can you name the four ingredients in beer?" [who can't?!] "Did you ever keep a real cool beer bottle?" [several] I think these ads are great fun, and I think they are aimed at folks like us; the american beer consumer that like something besides BudMilloors. They appeal to beer snobs, which I guess many of us could consider ourselves...a very clever ad campaign by Boston Beer Co. Happy Turkey Day! Cheers Curt css2 at oas.psu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 08:14:42 -0700 From: Norman Pyle <hophead at ares.csd.net> Subject: Airlocks Al K. writes about airlocks: >Also, just as Jeff says, don't forget to add water or some liquid to the airlock before active CO2 production is over (or you will risk having your alcohols oxidized to aldehydes -- yuk). I think this is slightly alarmist. Not that it doesn't have some basis in science, but in the practical world, I think it's not such a risk. Sometimes practice is simpler and, some might say, more important than theory. Consider those who do open fermentation. This oxidation "risk" is certainly greatest with that method, yet there is little evidence to indicate this is real problem with open ferments. It may be where you draw the line on when "active CO2 production is over", but the bottom line for me is that open ferments do not cause oxidation issues. Forgetting to put water in your closed- ferment air lock is such a minuscule oxidation risk, I just don't see it as an issue. Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 11:01:57 -0500 From: hoopes at bscr.uga.edu (J. Todd Hoopes) Subject: Mead I am an all grain brewer for the most part, but I also like to make= the occasional mead. I've always been a little worried that the high= alcohol content would kill off the yeast before bottling...So far no= problems. However I have just started another mead with 8.2 kg honey. (OG= 1.128). Should I pitch again before bottling? Is this going to be a still= mead no matter what I do? ****************************************************************************= ** ***Do unto others.. for given a reversal of situation*** J. Todd Hoopes *= ** ***they would surely do it unto you. ***Hoopes at bscr.uga.edu*= ** *******************************************************************= *********** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 95 08:05:38 PST From: kens at lan.nsc.com (Ken Schroeder) Subject: A Vote for Fritz... impeach koch Greg responds in HD1888: ><Jim Koch>in my opinion, has done more to expand America's beer >consciousness than anyone else - Fritz Maytag and Pete Slosberg included. Well, IMHO, and to put it more accurately, Jim Koch may have done more in the past 5 years than Fritz or Pete. But, my vote would have to put Fritz Maytag as the "Grandfather" of the craft/micro/great beer revolution (big claim, eh?). When lookng into the what Fritz has done over the years, he, IMHO, has done more to get this whole thing off the ground and set the stage for people like Pete and Koch. Fritz help the New Albion brewery get started, then at its demise, helped Mendicino Brewing (Red Tail Ale) grow with cheap equipment and other arrangements which relieved some of the financial pressures. He helped Sierra Nevada with equipment, who in turn helped Mad River (Steelhead Ale, Jamacian Red). Anchor and Sierra Nevada were the first widely marketed craft brews on the left coast. that's a lot of tounges to wake up. In my research, the great beer revolution started on the left coast and quickly spread to the right. His company, Anchor Brewing, sponsors the California Homebrew Club of the Year Award which encourages homebrew clubs to further the art/science of brewing and give something back to the community. Many club which win this award produce fine craft brewers, currently brewing great beers in micros and pubs from Hawaii to Arizona to Oregon. Here is the part that gets me, he does it HONESTLY, and many times without financial gain (or law suites) (try both of those koch). Conclusion, Fritz is instrumental in setting the stage for all of us. Koch is using that stage to full advantage (mostly his advantage). Besides, Fritz bought Anchor in the 60's and brought it back to life by the early 70's. That's well before anybody else got started.(Don't mistake non-truthful advertizing as a history lesson, Fritz is the grandfather of America's great beer revolution, NOT koch the imposter and marketing genius). Ken Schroeder Sequoia Brewing (Hoping to be as giving as Fritz Maytag when we go pro.) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 10:52:29 EST From: HYMT59A at prodigy.com (MR SCOTT H MOBERG) Subject: Well water In HBD 1886 Amos says: <From: JAWeld at aol.com <In the HBD from 11/14/95, Phil.finkle ask if it is necessary to boil well <water. I would have to say yes, it is necessary. For the same reason you <boil water before feeding to newborn infants. You should boil all water to <remove the chance of bacterial infection. And after all, isn't a batch of <brew as helpless as a baby?? I would be especially careful of well water, <which may or may not be chlorinated. I have to disagree with two points. I have made both extract and all grain using unboiled well water, and all four of my kids from infants on up have drank unboiled well water. In fact, newborns have great immune systems, especially if breast fed, and well water, once checked for E. Coliform, is very safe and relatively bacteria free. (of course any water may have other contaminants such as fertilizer byproducts, metals, etc.) There are also different types of wells. I would normally prefer a drilled well (75 - 200 Ft deep) that taps an aquifier as opposed to a "point", that may only be 10 ft deep and utilizes surface water runoff. I have never had a problem with bacteria infections in any of my batches, and have never worried about tap water contributing to contamination. I also prefer the taste of my well water to most municipal water systems because I don't like chlorine flavored water. Anybody ever experience bacterial problems directly attributable to use of well water ? Scott Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1892, 11/24/95