HOMEBREW Digest #1969 Mon 26 February 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  simple recipe (John Carey)
  labeling alternative ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
  starting a homebrew festival/competition (Tracy Thomason)
  cleaning PET bottles (Tracy Thomason)
  Attn. Montreal area brewers (Matt_K)
  Simple recipe addendum (John Carey)
  Copper: how safe for brewing? (Jeff Benjamin)
  nitrogen from the DOD ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
  Starting Out (Brian Borgstede)
  5th. ann. New York City Spring Regional Competition (Ken )
  no carbonation in m (jim.hilliard)
  Piraat Ale (Belgian Ale) (Curiouser and curiouser...)
  Re: mixed gases....continued (Jeff Renner)
  Zinc/Microwaves/Head (A. J. deLange)
  Mac Software (Michael T. Bell)
  MAC and other Software (KennyEddy)
  "The Brewer's Companion", Mosher (D & S Painter)
  Relax, have a homebrew (Jon Vilhauer)
  European Brewery Tours. (Waverly)" <kbooth at isd.ingham.k12.mi.us>
  Pennies as weights (Braumeister Dave)
  Chlorine Sanitizer (Richard Sharp)
  Kraeusening Basque's typists! Whatta gas! ("Pat Babcock")
  3/24/96 NYC Spring Homebrew Competition (Ken )
  Sam Adams Finalsts (Kit Anderson)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 15:32:29 -0400 From: careyj at clan.TartanNET.ns.ca (John Carey) Subject: simple recipe I've been reading all the high tech info on brewing for the past week or so but don't see much to help the average person who just wants to make a batch of suds as simply as possible. Hence, for the help of any such person on the HBD list I submit the following recipe which I have been using for some twenty years or so with considerable success. Ingredients: 4 kg white sugar,(corn if preferred) 2 cans (1.13kg) Brewmix malt 1 can doric malt various types of hop pellets to taste. This makes 14 doz. bottles of brew. About 7% alcohol by vol. I start with half a preserving kettle of water and when that is boiling I dissolve the sugar therein. If I don't forget, I usually add the hops first. Next I pour in the three cans of malt stirring as I do so. When this mix is about to return to a boil I shut off the heat. I then put the mix in a clean hard finish, plastic garbage pail (I thought that might get to some of you.), and add sufficient water to make the 14 doz. bottles. The whole thing is then set on a wooden case about a foot high with a light bulb under it. (40watts) I then cover the lot with a heavy quilt and leave it alone for 7 or 8 days. After that I check with the Hydrometer to see if the SP is up to about 1.0. If it is I bottle it using a plastic syphon. I prefer not to drink any of this for at least a month, preferably longer, but then I have about 45 doz. bottles at my disposal. There is a certain amount of sediment in the bottles but if you pour carefully it comes out crystal clear. There is no taste to the sediment anyway and I have drank it straight out of the bottle on occasion. Cheers. John Carey, Clementsport, N.S. Can. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 96 13:24:00 PST From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD at hood-03.army.mil> Subject: labeling alternative << dear cogs of the collective, Have read some recent labeling posts concerning silk screening labels onto bottles. This has intrigued me as well but I didn't want to fork over the bucks to have it done at the local silk screening shop. This is the alternative that I have come up with: 1. Buy some unmounted "battleship (gray)" linoleum and cut into 2" X 3" rectangles. You can get this at a good art supply store or mail order, I order it from Dick Blick (insert lengthy disclaimer). The stuff is dirt cheap for the size of a label, so buy a few. When you inevitably screw up, you can start over. 2. Draw your artwork on the linoleum, be sure to reverse your lettering so it will show up correctly on the bottle. For the artistically challenged, design it on software, print it, transfer it to the linoleum by tracing the design with some carbon paper underneath. 3. Carve out your design with wood carving tools or special linoleum cutters you can buy at the aforementioned catalog. 4. Pull a test print on some paper by inking up the surface with a roller or brayer as it is called. I guess you could put it on with a brush. I used white, oil based, block printing ink which goes well on brown and green bottles. Do this several times to check the progress. it is easier to carve away than to put back. Just put some paper on the inked linoleum, put paper on top and rub the back of the paper with the back of a spoon. 5. Once it is to your satisfaction, it is time for the bottles. Ink up the linoleum and roll the bottle along the flat linoleum. It takes some practice to get the hang of it. If it doesn't look good, just wipe off and try again. 6. You can wait for the bottles to dry (a few days) or rush the process by putting them in the oven and warming them to 200F for a half hour (this gives off a lot of harmful fumes so open the windows). Materials: 4 label sized pieces of linoleum: $2.00 white oil based block printing ink: $3.89 rubber brayer (optional): $6.00 The result has a kind of hand crafted feel to it. Perfect for hand crafted beer. The design will last about five bottling cycles (complete with dishwasher sanitization). I'm sure that there is ink specifically designed for bottles that would last longer. This process is not as slick as some high priced silkscreen job but it suits me. Daniel Goodale goodaled at hood-03.army.mil Biohazard Brewing Company "Sure it's gonna kill ya, but who wants to live forever" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 96 20:08:33 GMT From: tracyt at llano.net (Tracy Thomason) Subject: starting a homebrew festival/competition Can anybody out there tell me what's involved in getting a homebrew festival/competition organized? We live in West Texas and there aren't any competitions around, but there are lots of homebrew clubs. We are wondering about laws, licenses, etc. email me. Thanks, Tracy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 96 20:11:35 GMT From: tracyt at llano.net (Tracy Thomason) Subject: cleaning PET bottles Are PET bottles dishwasher safe? I was going to try a couple with my next batch of beer but wanted to know how to clean them. Is just bleaching enough if they can't make it through the dishwasher? Tracy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 15:23:24 est From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca Subject: Attn. Montreal area brewers I am interested in putting together a bulk order for malt. We need to order 10 25kg bags or more to fulfill the minimum order. The price for 25 kg of Canadian 2-row malt is $18.33 and 25 kg of Crystal are $28.00. All prices are Canadian dollars. I'm not sure if there is any tax on this but if there is enough interest, I'll find out. Please drop me a line at Matt_k at ceo.sts-systems.ca in you are intrerested. Matt in Montreal Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 16:38:07 -0400 From: careyj at clan.TartanNET.ns.ca (John Carey) Subject: Simple recipe addendum I neglected to mention the yeast in my recipe. I use one of the packages of Brewers yeast that comes with the cans of malt. I take some of the mixture from the preserving kettle, cool it down to approx. body temp, with cold water, and add the yeast to this for a starter. Before I close up the vat mix I add the started yeast on top of the mixture. By the second day you can smell the delightful aroma of it working. The extra packages of yeast I add to the septic system. John Carey, Clementsport, N.S., Can. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 96 14:33:17 MST From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Copper: how safe for brewing? This is a question for a metallurgist (John Palmer, you out there?) or perhaps a biochem type. I'm probably going to stir up a lot of trub by bringing this up (again), but here goes: Conventional wisdom holds that brewing with copper utensils is okay, both from a usefulness perspective and from a health perspective. Many homebrewers (myself included) use copper lauter manifolds, wort chillers, even kettles -- witness the beautiful copper brewhouse at Celis, for example. However, from the cooking side of things, copper cookware is considered a not-so-good thing, as copper can be toxic. A quote from Harold McGee's _On Food and Cooking_, which I have posted to HBD before: "...copper cookware can be harmful. Its oxide coating is sometimes porous and powdery, and copper ions are easily leached into food solutions.... But the human body can excrete copper in only limited amounts, and exessive intake can cause gastrointestinal problems and, in more extreme cases, liver damage. No one will be poisoned by the occasional zabaglione whipped in a copper bowl, but clearly copper is not a good candidate for everyday cooking." Copper cookware is usually lined with a more inert metal (tin, stainless steel). So, why is copper okay for brewing but not for cooking in? A few conjectures: 1. Copper leached into the wort during brewing is consumed by the yeast during fermentation? 2. Copper ions attach to some other component of the wort and settle out. 3. Beer doesn't leach much copper into the wort compared to other foods you might cook (due to pH or ...)? 4. It's the mechanical action of cooking (scraping, etc.) that releases copper during cooking; this doesn't happen nearly so much with brewing? 5. The copper is in the beer, you just don't drink that much beer, compared to the amount of food you eat. Anyone know what the real scoop is? - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Think! It ain't illegal yet." -- George Clinton Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 96 15:55:00 PST From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD at hood-03.army.mil> Subject: nitrogen from the DOD Dear collective, While wandering around DRMO (kind of an Army surplus store run by the government) I came across some nitrogen cylinders about the same size as the normal CO2 cylinders for dispensing from those mini-kegs. They were used to pressurize M-11 decontamination sprayers (looks like a fire extinguisher). Visions of creamy heads came to mind as I bought them $2.00 for 10. Questions: 1. Are these things under higher pressure than normal gas? Will they blow up my dispenser, minikegs, apartment?? 2. They are slightly smaller than the normal CO2 cartridges, and don't quite fit well into dispenser, will this cause leakage? 3. Should I just give up, quit my job and join the Michigan militia? Daniel Goodale Biohazard Brewing Company Sure it's gonna kill ya, but who wants to live forever? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 17:08:10 -0600 From: sbrborg at umslvma.umsl.edu (Brian Borgstede) Subject: Starting Out Help. My wife said I couldn't keep bees. So I asked her if I could make my own beer. The answer was yes, so, I went to the library and got some books. The only equipment I have is a bottle capper. (I get the bottles tonight.) None of the kits look good to me so, I plan to buy a primary firmenter (Large plastic food grade bucket w/lid.) and carboy w/bubbler. What size carboy should I buy. (This seems to be the most expensive part and I only want to buy one) I plan to start with the malt kits (The ones that come with all you need including bottle caps) Most of these seem to make five gallons. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Brian Borgstede Phone: (314) 516-6433 Instructional Technology Fax: (314) 516-5294 University of Missouri sbrborg at umslvma.umsl.edu St. Louis Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 19:11:07 -0500 From: kbjohns at escape.com (Ken ) Subject: 5th. ann. New York City Spring Regional Competition Following is general info for the NYCSH Comp. Please load it to your word processor & print out. Xs indicate page breaks for entry forms etc. Additional info can be found on our web page URL http://www.wp.com/HOSI HOMEBREWERS OF STATEN ISLAND 5th. Annual NEW YORK CITY SPRING REGIONAL HOMEBREW COMPETITION Sunday, March 24, 1996 - 10:00 A.M. CAROL'S PUB 1571 Richmond Rd. Staten Island, New York 10304 ORGANIZER Frank Salt (718) 984-0373, eves. Msg. 718 667-4459 Fax 718-987-3942 E-mail kbjohns at escape.com The fifth annual New York City Spring Regional Homebrew Competition will take place on Sunday, March 24th., at Carol's. The competition is sanctioned by both the AHA and BJCP and sponsored by the Homebrewers of Staten Island. All judging will take place at Carol's. Judging will begin promptly at 10:00 am. The first round judging will be a closed session. Best of show judging will take place, after a lunch break, at 2:00 p.m. and will be open to the public. Party to follow, call for details. Last years competition brought 157 entries. This year we are expecting a minimum of 200. As we are in the middle of brewing season most brewers should have a number of entries. Carol's is located 3 miles south of the Staten Island Expressway. Take the Richmond Road (not Richmond Ave.) exit. If you need directions please contact Frank Salt at 718-948-0373 or Ken Johnsen at 718- 667-4459S.N.Y.S.R. Additional information can be found at the HOSI web site URL http://www.wp.com/HOSI XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX ____________________________________________________________________________ COMPETITION RULES: 1. ELIGIBILITY: The competition is open to all homebrewers. Beer must be brewed at home. 2. ALL AHA recognized categories, with sub categories, will be judged. Categories with sub-categories will be set under 6 classes. Based on past experience we anticipate combining categories as shown in the attached sheet. Categories with less than 6 entries will be collapsed according to AHA/BJCP procedures. Sub-categories with 6 or more entries may, at the discretion of the organizer, be judged as a separate category. To insure proper placement, please include as much information about your entries as possible. 3. NUMBER of entries: Brewers may enter more than one beer per category provided it is a different recipe. Each entry must be clearly identified and labeled. 4. BOTTLES: Brewers must submit three 7 - 16 oz., plain brown or green glass bottles. No labels or identifying marks. Plain gold caps are preferred. Other caps must be completely blacked out. Grolsch bottles will be accepted. 5. ENTRY fee is $5.00 per entry. For five or more entries the fee for all entries drops to $4.00 per entry. (if you enter 4 or 5 beers cost is $20.00). Entries beyond ten (10) are free. For entries received after Thursday March 21st. the entry fee is $6.00 per entry regardless of number. Paper work must be in (faxed, mailed) prior to the 24th. Make checks payable to Frank Salt. 6. DEADLINE for entries sent to East Coast is Thursday March 21st. Entries will be accepted after March 1, 1995. Entries will be accepted on the day of the copetition PROVIDED ALL PAPER WORK IS RECEIVED BY THE 23rd. AND ENTRIES ARRIVE BY 9:00 AM 7. REGISTRATION forms must be attached, with a rubber band, no tape, to all bottles. Recipes must be included on the entry form in case there is a question as to category. Winning recipes may be published, with credit given to the brewer. 8. SEND entries, adressed to HOSI Comp, by UPS, or bring to East Coast Brewing Supply. It is legal to send beer for evaluations. Identify contents as non perishable food. Pack carefully. Include a self addressed stamped envelope to receive a rapid return of results. Main Drop-off East Coast Brewing Supply 124 Jacques Ave. Staten Island, New York 10306. Phn (718) 667-4459, Fax (718) 987-3942 Other Drop-off points. (Entries must be dropped off by Wed. Mar. 20th.for Thurs. pick-up) The Home Brewery 56 W. Main St. Bogota, N.J 07603 201-525-1833 Hop & Vine 11 DeHart St Morristown, N.J 07960 201-993-3191 Red Bank Brewing Supply 67 Monmouth St Red Bank. N.J. 07708 908-842-7507 Little Shop of Hops 9 E. 37th. St./79 New St. New York, N.Y. 10018 212-704-4248/952-4374 Brews Brothers at Kedco 564 Smith St. Farmingdale, N.Y. 11735 (516) 454-7800 SIMTAC 15 Colton Rd. East Lime, Ct. 06333 (203) 739-3609 U-Brew Co 319 1/2 Milburn Ave Milburn, N.J. 07041 (201) 376-0963 10. PRIZES will be awarded for Best of Show, as well as 1st. and 2nd. runners-up. Prizes will also be awarded to 1st. place winners of each category. We currently have committments for $500.00 in prizes and are making efforts to secure additional prizes. All 1st. 2nd. and 3rd. place category winners will be also be awarded a certificate. Ken, Internet Catalogs at: Precision Brewing Systems URL http://www.wp.com/hosi/pbscat.html East Coast Brewing Supply URL http://virtumall.com/EastCoastBrewing/ECBMain.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 96 19:44:57 -0500 From: jim.hilliard at circellar.com Subject: no carbonation in m Subj: no carbonation in my bottles :( A question for the collective wisdom here: I have just finished my third batch, and am beginning to go out on a limb with some techniques. I started with straight malt syrup and priming sugar the first two times, as well as pellet hops. Now, I am attempting a Bass-alike, using light malt extract syrup, DME, brown sugar, and DME to prime. I had an OG of 1.038 and a FG of 1.008. I primed with DME, as I mentioned, and bottled. Three weeks later, I popped one open, poured, and was shocked that there was no head. Not only no head, but no carbonation. Tastes like a flat Bass (blech). BTW, I used 1 cup of DME for a 5 gallon batch. I kept the bottled brew at 70F for one week, then reduced the room temp to 55F for the second 2 weeks. On Charlie P.'s recommendation, I raised the room temp again to 70F, and haven't tried it yet. Please help me. Is 55F too cold for an ale to prime? What is the appropriate temp? Private e-mail appreciated as I don't read the digest daily. Jim Hilliard jim.hilliard at circellar.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 17:38:48 -0800 From: ruderman at esca.com (Curiouser and curiouser...) Subject: Piraat Ale (Belgian Ale) Hello All, On a recent incursion into Southern California, my wife and I came across a ale called Piraat Ale. It professed to be of Belgian origin and came in a short stubbie brown bottle. It tastes marvelous. Has anyone out there ever brewed a clone of Piraat Ale? If so, would you please share a copy of your recipe with me? Many thanks, Robert Ruderman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 96 09:28:19 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: mixed gases....continued In HBD 1968, "Rich Byrnes" <rich.byrnes at e-mail.com> said <snip> > Now, from an economic and complexibility standpoint, would it make > sense to force carbonate as usual and just dispense with the nitrogen > mix? I have the spare tanks to do so, or would it make more sense to > force carbonate as usual and push with pure nitrogen? I haven't > bought the regulator yet, nor have I bought the valve for my "soon to > be ex-fire-extinguisher" so I could go either way at this point. > FWIW the welding supplier I mentioned yesterday will fill a 20lb > tank with al-eh-gal (60/40) for $12, not bad considering I've heard > other places charge upwards of $20 for a 5lb tank. Also, is 70/30 > any better of a mix than 60/40? Rich If you keep a few basic principles in mind, you can dope this out yourself. First of all, you need to figure what level of carbonation you want in your beer and what pressure CO2 will produce this. There are tables that give this. Second, you need to realize that the N2 is essentially insoluble, and therefor simply provides inert dispensing pressure. Third, you need to know about partial pressures. 20psi (to use an arbitrary pressure) of 70/30 N2/CO2 mix will give exactly the same carbonation (at equilibrium) as 6 psi of CO2 (0.3x20psi) but will dispense with the force of 20 psi. If you did this with 20 psi CO2 (at equilibrium, with the CO2 at saturation at 20 psi), you'd have overcarbonated beer and a glass full of foam. So the beer mix is a way of keeping low carbonation with high dispensing force. This is expecially nice when forcing the beer through little holes such as in the Guinness nozzles. It produces that creamy head. It also knocks out some of the carbonation by agitation, so you need to play with the pressure level that gives you the best overall results, ie, carbonation level in the glass and head height. (I think that draft stout and real ale taste best (creamiest) with NO excess carbonation, that is, with just saturation of CO2 at atmospheric pressure - NO rising bubbles.) You could accomplish the same thing by carbonating with just CO2 at 6 psi, then turning it up to 20 psi for dispensing, then immediately bleeding off the excess pressure down to 6 psi again before any CO2 dissolved and the carbonation increased. Or, you could keep the carbonation VERY low and dispense the beer forcefully using a hand pump, which is, of course, the whole point of this. ;-) So, to answer your questions, you must carbonate with just CO2 at 6 psi (to use our arbitrary pressure) until you are at equilibrium. Then switch to beer mix. If you pushed with pure N2, then you would lose carbonation to the head space until equilibrium was reached. The more beer you dispensed, the more N2 would go into the head space, and the more CO2 would come out of your beer. Eventually you would end up with flat beer. You must keep the partial pressure of CO2 over the beer at the same level as it was when you carbonated (which is the same as the partial pressure of CO2 in the beer). (Anticipating another question, if you used beer mix to carbonate, the CO2 would go into solution, leaving behind a higher concentration of N2 in the head space, screwing up your nice partial pressure plans.) As far as which is better, 70/30 or 60/40, I'd say that depends on what pressure your system behaves best at and/or economics. Just remember to keep the partial pressure of the CO2 at the same level as the pressure of 100% CO2 was for carbonation. Then you won't gain or lose carbonation. Hope this is clear. It may be more than you (and HBDers) wanted to know, but as a former teacher, I always feel it's best to explain the principles so you can figure it out yourself. Of course, this drives my kids crazy. They always say, "just give me the short answer." ;-) Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 10:48:43 -0500 From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: Zinc/Microwaves/Head In #1963 Keith Royster worries about zinc: Wort should contain some zinc (cofactor for various ueast enzymes) but not too much. Apparantly levels above 0.6 mg/L retards yeast growth although this effect is mitigated if manganese is present as well. The USEPA secondary standard (the level above which taste is adversely affected) for drinking water is 5 mg/L. Above this level zinc is bitter. If there is a primary standard (above which level there is a health hazzard) I can't find it. The main problem where there is zinc from galvanized pipe is that there may be cadmium and lead as these are often present as impurities in the zinc used in galvanizing. In # 1966 Greger Olson asked about microwaving extract to warm it for pouring: No problem for the extract. Big problem for the microwave oven if the extract is in a can which it usually is in which case you'd have to pour it out first to put it a suitable container. If the extract is in a pouch which is not metallized then there should be no problem if you open a couple of holes for escape of the expanding gasses. Needless to say, excessive heating of the extract will hasten Maillard reactions and the syrup will darken. In # 1968 Dave Whitman wrote "I can make a hand-wavy chemist's argument for divalent calcium ions complexing to proteins in solutions to form ionic crosslinks.." I don't think that's too hand-wavy. Metal ion crosslinking of proteins is suspected to be a factor in foam stability. The major factor in foam stability is the spectrum of molecular weights of proteins (see recent discussions of same) and this is, of course, influenced by the activities of the various enzymes which bring about proteolysis. Some of these enzymes have metal ion co-factors. Dave also mentions adding gypsum to sparge water. If the intent is to lower the pH I wouldn't expect it to be too effective. By the time sparge comes around the enzyme (phytase) which catalyzes the calcium/phytin reaction should be deactivated (especially in a decoction mash). If, OTOH, the intent is to get some calcium and sulfate into the beer, no problem. A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore! ajdel at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 09:13:55 -0500 From: belltex at onramp.net (Michael T. Bell) Subject: Mac Software Howdy Ya'll, I the past few days, there has been an onslaught of requests for Mac brewing share/freeware on the HBD. Specifically, there has been two. For Mac users, this DEFINATELY qualifies as an offical onslaught. After spending many hours searching the WWW, I have found a few pieces of shareware on various beer related pages for the Mac. The problem with most of these is that they are using Excel as the spreadsheet of choice. That's not so great if you don't have Excel( mine came w/Claris ). I do have a translator but something definately gets lost in the switch. What I think we all (3 of us?) would like to find is a piece of stand-alone shareware that we can download from a page like THE BREWERY or THE WWW VIRTUAL LIBRARY - BEER AND BREWING. Lance Skidmore mentioned in HBD #1966 that there is a very good program called BrewMeister located on Compuserve in their Beer forum. He informed me that he can't attach doc.'s to his E-mail so him posting this is out of the question. If somebody out there has a Mac and Compuserve, were in business. All you have to do is go to one of the pages mentioned above. There are instructions on how to contribute (usually just E-mail the Administrator the doc.). That way we can download it directly. It would also certainly be allright to just E-mail me the doc. and I would be more than happy to go through to footwork (fingerwork?). If anybody out there in cyberland knows of ANY stand-alone applications besides BrewMeister, please let us know!!! Many thanks to the all-knowing collective in advance, Mike Bell beer is good food Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 10:17:11 -0500 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: MAC and other Software Tom Ayres asks: >Does anyone know of any SUDS-like shareware for the Mac. Try http://www.mindspring.com/~jlock/wwwbeer.html : the WWW Virtual Beer Library. Specifically .../wwwbeer7.html has a pretty good list of brewing software including that for MAC. Ken Schwartz KennyEddy at aol.com me brew beer, drink lots, yah Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 12:23:41 -0500 From: D & S Painter <painter at CAM.ORG> Subject: "The Brewer's Companion", Mosher Hello to All, I thank everyone who responded personally to my previous Gott questions. I now have a quick question for anyone who has purchased or has been in contact with Randy Mosher's book The Brewer's Companion; could you please give me a review on this book. I live in Canada and don't have access to this book but I can order it. I don't want to pay about $30-$40 on a book I know nothing about. The AHA's "Beer Enthusiast" vol6,#2, totes it as having detailed charts, graphs, etc ... for easy reference and with a number of worksheets etc. Thanks in advance Douglas <painter at cam.org> Montreal, PQ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 14:27:54 GMT From: jon.vilhauer at drcss.com (Jon Vilhauer) Subject: Relax, have a homebrew I was particularly interested in recent discussion of lauter tun grain depth, as I've always thought 6" or 8" was much too shallow, resulting in lower extraction rates and a lot of extra trouble dribbling sparge water evenly over the larger surface area: picnic coolers aren't better, they're just easier. One of the more helpful articles explained the set up at Siebel and made a lot of sense (ideal depth about 18"). It was interesting to read and whatever grammatic or typographic liberties it may have taken interfered not at all with my understanding and enjoyment of the information. Give it a rest Lance, Jon Vilhauer Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 14:18:59 -0500 (EST) From: "Kathy Booth (Waverly)" <kbooth at isd.ingham.k12.mi.us> Subject: European Brewery Tours. Sposual unit and I will be touring in England, Scotland, Ireland, France, Belgium and Holland in July. I have a limited opportunity to visit notable breweries and pubs and I would appreciate "do not miss" tours. Sposual unit has seen numerous US breweries and pubs, and the modern industrial scene is "Ho-hum". So far I've identified: Brewing Museum on Brussell's great square Straffe Hendrik Brewrie in Bruges, Guiness in Dublin, IRE Samual Smith Museum in York, England Your suggestions about historically interesting places would be appreciated. Jim Booth, Lansing MI Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 16:52:47 -0700 (MST) From: Braumeister Dave <woodstok at rupert.oscs.montana.edu> Subject: Pennies as weights Regarding the recent fiddling with coins as counter-weights I just HAD to comment on why you should be careful with using pennies. This is really nit-picky but i've gotta say this. I'm in an analytical chemistry class right now and we just recently did a lab using pennies (what's that have to do with chem? Don't ask me, i'm just an undergrad) and calculating standard deviations and mean weights etc, of pennies before and after 1982 (this is the year when they switched from the old heavier pennies to the new lighter ones). We didn't look at just 7 pennies or a roll of pennies, but _700_ pennies. Needless to say, i think our count was pretty thorough. We found the following: Pennies made before 1982 have an average weight of 3 grams Pennies made after 1982 have an average weight of 2.5 grams You will find greater variation as the penny's age increases due to wear and tear. Also, you should completely ignore pennies made in 1982 as they made both types of pennies during that year and you would have to weight them out to tell which type they were - which is kind of pointless. Sorry for my anal-retentive post, but i couldn't believe that i would ever find a real-world application for that lab, and it was such a royal pain in the ass to do, i just couldn't resist. Happy weighing! David Why should I Weep, wail, or sigh? What if luck has passed me by? What if my hopes are dead,- My pleasures fled? Have I not still My fill Of right good cheer,- From "Beer" by George Arnold Cigars and beer? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 21:14:03 -0600 From: dsharp at ionet.net (Richard Sharp) Subject: Chlorine Sanitizer A coupple of issues ago , Mitch Hogg had a question on chlorine , hot or cold . I waited a while for all of the Chemistry majors to jump in but so far none have done so .I will try to shine a little light on the issue . The active ingredient in a chlorine solution is hypochlorus accid . This chemical is a very active reagent and highly unstable . It will breakdown into chemicles that do nothing to help in the sanitizing process when exposed to heat (among other things). So the question of a hot or cold chlorine comes up . If you wanted a very active but short lived solution , hot water could probably be used . However if you are going to get that "grunge" off of carboys and fermentors an overnight night soak would be appropriate along with cold water . This is only an opinion based on old Chemistry text books . Opinions corrections or additions are welcome . Best , Dick Sharp Dick Sharp PGP2.6 KeyId 39EB1C6D Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 00:16:16 -0500 From: DONBREW at aol.com Subject: RIMS Kirk Fleming said: >n #1966 Dion said: > >> With a RIMS system, stirring of the mash should *never* be necessary >> and if it is, indicates something wrong with the design and/or >> implementation. > >I agree it shouldn't be *necessary*; I would argue that mechanical >agitation (stirring, for example) will almost always produce a higher >yield though, regardless of how good flow thru the bed is. Can't prove >it in the general case, of course. > Gee, in my particular RIMS setup I have found that the one absolutely sure way to stick the bed is to stir the mash. I (almost) always get better than 30 pts. yield (usually >34pts. or mid 80%s according to SUDW) without ever stirring. Don Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 01:37:14 +0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Kraeusening Basque's typists! Whatta gas! Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... In HBD #1968, Jason Henning asks about freezing gyle for kraeusening... > I was think about doing it. I would use his formula to calculate > the amount of gyle required, freeze it in a clean plastic > container. I would then thaw it out in a pan and boil it. Allow > it to cold. Then add it to the wort in my bottling bucket. CP > says to save in a sterile jar in the refrigerator and then pitch. > Is there any reason way freezing and reboiling wouldn't be better? > Or is this whole process just a PITA and just not worth the > trouble? I leave whether or not it is worth it to you. For long lagering brews, your reserve/freeze/thaw/boil/cool/prime routine is almost elegant. The key to either method is sanitation. You don't want some hungry beasty to consume your gyle before you're ready to use it. If contaminated, your gyle is much more likely to ferment into "The Beverage That Grossed-Out New Jersey" in the fridge than in the freezer. Freeze away, I say! - --------------------------------- Imanol asks about making beer in his country... > If someone can help me telling the first things i have to do,thank > you. The level of the digest is very high, maybe i must go to other > list.If you think that i have to go tell me and i unsuscribe. First, locate a source for malt extract or malted grains, yeast, and some hops. Some extracts already contain hops. Those are fine, too. There's no point doing much else until you can determine where you can get the base ingredients. Next, locate a source for suitable bottles and caps. Brown glass with crown caps (and a capper) are preferable, but anything that once held a CARBONATED beverage should do fine. When you find sources, get about 4.5 pounds of light or amber DRY malt extract or about 5 pounds of LIQUID malt extract; about a cup of corn sugar, and about 2.5 ounces of hops. Hallertau is preferred for this simple recipe, but we're only interested in getting you started, so we won't be picky. The beer will be great. Boil up about 1.5 to 2 gallons of water, take it off the heat, and add the extracts. Mix thoroughly. Return to heat and boil for fifteen minutes or so with the lid off. Add an ounce of your hops. Boil for another fifteen minutes. Toss in another ounce of hops; boil for another fifteen minutes. Toss in the remaining half ounce of hops, put your cover on the pot, and take the pot off the heat. Set the pot into a sink or tub full of COLD water. Swirl it around every once in a while and cool it to as close to 70 deg F as you can bear waiting for. Definitely not hotter than 80, though! Put two gallons of cool water into your fermenter. The fermenter will be a vessel capable of holding at least five gallons. Glass water cooler jugs are ideal, but anything that held food or drink is ok. Make sure it is clean. Sanitize it with boiling water or a bleach solution before using it. I also recommend that you boil about four gallons of water the night prior to your brewing for use in diluting your concentrated wort (extract and water). Now, pour your cooled mixture into the fermenter. Mix it up with a clean, sanitized spoon, or shake the covered fermenter. This is to both mix and aerate the contents. Top up to the five gallon mark with more water. Add your yeast, and cover the fermenter. Feel free to peek in on it from time to time to see the yeast's activity. Should be about done fermenting within two weeks. At this time, add 1/2 to 3/4 cups of corn sugar to about a pint of water, mix and boil for about 15 minutes. Let this cool, then put it into a clean, sanitized container similar in size to your fermenter. Siphon your beer onto this solution. Use clean and sanitized vinyl hose to siphon. Try to stop siphoning before you begin sucking up the sediment from the bottom of your fermenter. (A little won't hurt.) Siphon this mixture to your sanitized bottles, one at a time. Leave about an inch to an inch-and-a-half of empty space at the top of each bottle. Cap them, let them sit for a couple weeks, chill, and enjoy! If you can locate no extract but can locate grains, report back to the HBD, and we'll tell you what to do... - --------------------------------- Lance Stronk comments on the unique utilization of the English language appearing in the digest... Well, Lance, I wouldn't call the quoted text "garbage", though it was not indicative of higher literary learning. The "nugget" of information in that post was very succinctly put belying an intelligence and understanding that you quite apparently miss. But I ramble, so I quote: > The thing that would be most important to consider would be depth > of those grain husk areas. If your small batch was spread out over > a larger surface area, the particle size distibution layers would > all be thin. 'Nuff said. Try a little tolerance. And have some coffee before replying next time :-) - --------------------------------- AND, finally, Rich Byrnes (do I know you?!?) asks about gasses in brew dispensing... > would it make sense to force carbonate as usual and just dispense > with the nitrogen mix? I have the spare tanks to do so, or would it > make more sense to force carbonate as usual and push with pure > nitrogen? You're forgetting the partial pressure issue. As the headspace is enriched with nitrogen, and the beer having X volumes of CO2 goes into your glass, the microenvironment in you keg is going to rush to equilibrium - the remaining beer will give up CO2 to the headspace to keep the partial pressures in balance. It will eventually result in flat beer. As was previously stated, mixes are best used where the pressure required to dispense are higher than those require to carbonate. And the ratio should be reflective of the difference. In my case, as we've discussed, I carbonate with 25 psig at 60F, and my draft system requires I dispense at 35 psig. Therefor, my ideal mix would be 25/35 or 71% CO2 (we'll accept the "error" and use 70%) and 100%-70%=30% N2 or Ar. From what I could find out, either one is acceptable, though N2 is more soluble in water than is Ar. See ya! Pat Babcock in Canton, Michigan (Western Suburb of Detroit) pbabcock at oeonline.com URL: http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/ Take advantage of the Drinkur Purdee document echo! Send a note to pbabcock at oeonline.com with the word help on the subject line to see what's on tap! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 11:23:22 -0500 From: kbjohns at escape.com (Ken ) Subject: 3/24/96 NYC Spring Homebrew Competition The 5th. ann NYCSR Competition is less than a month away. $1,000.00 in prizes will be given away. Entries will be accepted between 3/1 and 3/21 All AHA beer categories will be judged by AHA/BJCP judges only. Complete details: categories, cost, drop-off locations, entry form information and call for judges can be found at the Homebrewers of Staten Island home page. URL http://www.wp.com/HOSI/ Look for the competition announcement Ken URL http://www.wp.com/hosi/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 13:05:47 -0500 From: Kit Anderson <kit at maine.com> Subject: Sam Adams Finalsts More info on the Sam Adams Homebrew finalists. >>>On March 7, the GREAT LOST BEAR (Portland, Maine)will be pouring seven finalists from the >>>American Homebrewer's Association home brew competition with those recipes >>>brewed by Sam Adams in Jamaica Plain, MA...Black Lager, IPA, Amber Ale, >>>Porter,Smoked Brown Ale, Bock and Pilsner. Also, they will be recruiting >>>judges for future competitions. We do not have all the details, this is >>>what we have been told so far....Contact Mike Dickson at 772-0300 for more >>>details >> >Kit, >Here are the tasting notes on the styles of beer to be available on March 7 >(indicates Sam Adams name) >PILSNER (New World Boston Lager) Classic Pilsner, with a good malty >character up front, and a nice hoppy, bitter finish. Lager yeast character >does predominate its yeasty without the fruity notes of an ale yeast. >BOCK (Sam Adams Brown Ale) >Full bodied and chewy, this bock has a very big caramel, malty flavor. It >is very big and malty, a classic bock. > *SCHWARZBIER (Showdown Ale) >This is a black lager. It is very complex- brewed with several roasted >malts and fermented with Lager yeast, it has many layers. It is very >smooth, and has many of the characteristics of a porter or a stout. The >lager yeast, however, imparts a smoothness theat is both surprising and >delightful. >PORTER(Secret Ale) >An excellent example of an English porter. It's malty, and the use of >caramel, chocolate and black malt add a pleasant roasted character. It is >also hopped with Kent Goldings for that classic English ale hop character. >The fruity notes come from the ale yeast. >IPA (Brewer's Gold Ale) >This IPA is a hop lover's dream. Coming in at 50 bu's, and supported by a >good malt character and our ale yeast's fruity notes, this is a very nice >IPA indeed. It is a good study in American hop character: the hops are >American Northern Brewers and Cascades. The dry hop is with cascades. >*AMERICAN PALE ALE (Tall Ship's Ale) >This a very well balanced ale in the "California Common" style. Malty, >Hoppy, and fruity, this is a great beer. It is brewed with pale and >caramel malts, and dry hopped with cascades. >SMOKED BROWN ALE (Longshot Ale) >This is a big, smokey, chewy brown ale that was brewed with 40% smoked >german two row malt. The balance falls more toward the malt side, with a >great smokiness that is unique. >* Contest Winner- These beers will go into production, along with a >Hazelnut Brown Ale, and be released under the brand name LONGSHOT Kit Anderson Bath, Maine <kit at maine.com> The Maine Brew Page http://www.maine.com/brew Return to table of contents