HOMEBREW Digest #2014 Thu 18 April 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Convert ME! (Jim Herrick)
  Re: Sleep Deprivation Humor (Fred Ogline)
  tap handles (Wallinger)
  H2S and DMS (Wallinger)
  germany's Roggen beer clone (Mike Spinelli)
  Skunks (RUSt1d?)
  Liquid Foam (Bill Rust)
  Re: Flavenoids? (Cory Wright)
  Heather Use ("PHILIP J. TULLY")
  RE: CO2 Tanks... (Dave Beedle)
  bottles: some flat/some not ("Toler, Duffy L.")
  PET Bottles and oxidation (maxwell)
  Re: Carbonation Question (Spencer W Thomas)
  RE: 'Dating Wyeast Packs' ("Clark D. Ritchie")
  Hop Plant Propagation ("Downing, Greg")
  bottle rocket (ROTH.TER)
  prohibition / flavonoids ("Dave Hinkle")
  starters for dry yeast/Copyrights (Algis R Korzonas)
  Web page and hello! (Randy Jensen)
  Sunlight on the hops vine (Jinjer)
  Electronic Thermometry Part 2 (KennyEddy)
  Isinglass, bleach sanitation, etc. (MSULAX1)
  Electronic Thermometry Part Dieux (KennyEddy)
  Light-skunked beer. Starter question (Steve Alexander)
  Automated Sparging, revisited. (blacksab)
  In HBD #2013 Jim Nasiatka-Wylde asked... (Michael Lausin)
  co2 bottles (Robert Rogers)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 12:35:37 +0200 From: Jim Herrick <jherrick at merkur.the45er.nacamar.de> Subject: Convert ME! Greetings All! This is my first post after lurking for over 1 1/2 years! I wish to thank the collective for the vast amount of experience I feel like I have 'absorbed'. I've only brewed 8 extract-based batches, but have learned much from you all! I know I have and will have saved much $$$ and heartache from the posts of this digest. Again, Thanks! Stationed in Germany with the U.S. Army, I began homebrewing shortly after arriving here and have not had ANY face-to-face contact with a fellow homebrewer. I am lucky :) to have many friends on which I am able to test my product and am ALWAYS striving to pleasantly surprise them. I have usually been sucessful! I would enjoy making a face-to-face with a fellow homebrewer and would be grateful to have someone convert ME to all-grain! I haven't been able to thoroughly visualize the process and the steps involved. I need to know what to order (all through mail-order) and where to go from there. I would gladly treat to great German food and a trip to the WORLD'S LARGEST BEER STORE in Darmstadt, Germany (I don't represent them, but they carry over 1200 beers from over 250 countries!) if someone could spend a day or so with my wife and I (+ a newborn which SHOULD be here by the time this is POSTED!!!) Please email if interested! Thanks, Jim Meshell (Ethan James - if it's a boy Hanna Nicole - " " " girl!) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 07:05:03 -0700 From: Fred Ogline <oglinef at netrunner.net> Subject: Re: Sleep Deprivation Humor In #2008, "Sleepless in Oregon" asked: >What is the best style to brew after the birth of a new child? >An I.P(ee).A(ll-night.)? >A Barleyw(h)ine? >An Outmeal S(p)out? >A Midnight Ale? > >I've got waaaay too much time to think of these. (Generally between 12-5 >A.M.) >The best (worst?) pun will go in the fermenter and on the label (with >suitable clipart). Been on the road and just catching up, so I'm late in responding. When my daughter ws born last summer, I commemorated the event with a hoppy extract Pale Ale I named Diaper Pail Ale! 7.5 lb Coopers Light Malt Extract Syrup 0.75 lb. Crystal 40 L 2 oz. Nugget hops (11% AA) 1 oz Cascade hops (6.1% AA) 1 tsp gypsum Wyeast 1056 American Ale Steep Crystal malt at 155 degrees F for 45 min. Add gypsum, extract, bring to boil for 60 min. 1.5 oz Nugget at 15 min 0.5 oz Nugget at 30 min 0.5 oz Nugget, 0.5 oz Cascade at 45 min Dry hop for 2 weeks with 0.5 oz Cascades Turned out very nice and fruity, close to what I remembered from a cask conditioned Full Sail Amber at the Pilsener Room in Portland. Maybe drop to 1 oz Nuggets at 45 to lower IBU a bit. Congratulations! (By the way, my daughter was sleeping through the night at 6 weeks, not to rub it in :) - -- Fred Ogline South Florida oglinef at netrunner.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 07:03:58 -0500 From: Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com> Subject: tap handles Clark asks about cool tap handles. I just received a catalog from the = Golden Lion Authentic Pub Paraphernalia, and they have a few, along with = other stuff. They have a toll free number: 800-694-4255. This is not an = endorsement. Wade Pascagoula, Mississippi http://www.datasync.com/~wawa Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 07:07:27 -0500 From: Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com> Subject: H2S and DMS A thought occurred to me as I was reading the debate about H2S and DMS. = I would assume that some of the H2S production by yeast is from the = reduction of DMS. That would suggest that high H2S producers would have = less of a DMS note than low H2S producers, given the same wort. Perhaps = those looking to enhance the DMS note in their beers would best look for = a low H2S producing yeast. The logic is infallible, even if the facts = are wrong. Have at it folks. Wade Pascagoula, Mississippi http://www.datasync.com/~wawa Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 08:23:20 est From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) Subject: germany's Roggen beer clone HBDers, I'm planning this weekend to brew a beer similar to Roggen from Germany. I beleive it's a wheat beer with a certain portion of rye in it. Anyway, I'm thinking of 12# wheat malt, 3# rye flakes. 5# of pale malt and 2# of rice hulls to help with sparge. 10 gallon batch applies. Yeast will be Wyeast 3068. I'm planning a single decoction mash. So how 'bout it? 1) Can rye flakes be safely decocted along with the other grains? 2) Does anyone know what Roggen's grain mix is? 3) Am I creating the "sparge from hell"? On another topic: I saw in the April/May edition of the Ale Street News (pg.15) that a Jim Simpson of Queens NY won the Sam Adams homebrew contest. They will be releasing the Sam Adams Pale Ale this summer adapted from his recipe. Mike in Cherry Hill NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 07:52:14 -0400 From: RUSt1d? <rust1d at swamp.li.com> Subject: Skunks >With all the talk of light-skunked beer, does this mean I can't >take a pitcher of lager out to my pool in daylight? Well, yeah. I left a glass of ale in the sun while brewing and forgot about it for about a 1/2 hour or so. When I finally got around to quaffing it, it was skunked. John Varady Boneyard Brewing "Beer!" - WNOC ************************** ** rust1d at li.com ** ** John Nicholas Varady ** <-- Now Engaged. ** Eve Courtney Hoyt ** ************************** http://www.netaxs.com/people/vectorsys/index.html Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:30:59 -0400 From: Bill Rust <wrust at stlmpe-4.army.mil> Subject: Liquid Foam Morning Brewers! Jim Nasiatka-Wylde writes in HBD #2013: >Subject: Carbonation Question <snip> >I've kept the keg in my garage (natures fridge) and it's at about 40F. >CO2 pressure was at 40psi, and the keg was agitated for about 15 minutes. 40psi!!! Whoa Nelly! At 40F you probably want more like 16psi, and that's for a fairly high 2.5-2.6 volumes (approx.). Heck, I don't think my chart even goes all the way to 40! As for fixing your problem, I think there was a past digest that described a procedure for correcting this problem. Anyone remember how this is done?? - --------------------------------------------------------- Bill Rust | How ABOUT them Bulls! 70 wins, 3 games to go! - --------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 08:45:04 -0500 From: Cory Wright <cwright at sun1.anza.com> Subject: Re: Flavenoids? Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> wrote: >There is an article in today's Chicago Tribune (4/16/96 section 1, p = 12) >that describes research of John Folts at University Wisconson at = Madison, >and implies that "dark beer may prevent heart disease". Which is cool = with >me, but the level of technical detail of the article is pretty shabby. = >For instance, it says "That's because particles called wort are removed = >earlier in the processing of light-colored beer". Aha!! Finally, substantiated proof that megaswill _isn't really beer_!! = I don't think the article was wrong--they _are_ actually taking the wort = out of the brew, leaving some water and numerous chemical additives. = Bastards. And to think that they have the gall to try to sell it to the = American public as beer.=20 FWIW, I propose that dark beer doesn't necessarily prevent heart = disease, light, but rather that megaswilled "light-colored beer" causes = it. Cheers, Cory (cwright at midcom.anza.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 15:57:20 +0200 From: "PHILIP J. TULLY" <veriinc.veripjt at memo.volvo.se> Subject: Heather Use - --- Received from VERIINC.VERIPJT 201-391-2888 96-04-17 09:57 -> IN=homebrew(a)hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com Hello all, I am in the midst of making a Scotch Ale and was given a couple ounces of Heather. I was just wondering if anyone has any experience using heather. My thought s on the subject are to do one of the following two things. 1. Bring a small amount of WORT to a boil add the heather, turn off heat pour into secondary than rack Ale from primary into secondary and allow it to condition this way. 2. Just dump heather into secondary than rack directly on top of this. Given the mild aroma of the heather I was concerned #2 would not infuse much flavour. Private Email is great I will condense the responses and post the answers. Thanks Phil Tully Tully's Brew N Barrel A Full Service Homebrew Supply Shop 476B Bloomfield Avenue Verona, New Jersey 07044 (201) 857-5199 Brewer at novasys.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:19:32 -0500 (CDT) From: Dave Beedle <dbeedle at bacchus.net.ilstu.edu> Subject: RE: CO2 Tanks... > I'd also reccomend making one side hinged with a latch so you don't have to > pick up the cylinder, increasing the risk of dropping it and knocking the > valve off.. Also, whenever your cylinder is not in use, make sure the cap > is on it. If you transport the cylinder in a vehicle, DOT requires this as > well as making sure it's properly secured. The DOT also requires the tank be within current hydro approval. Some places will no fill the tank if it is not, others may not notice. I know I have a tank that is at least 10 years out of hydro inspection yet the local gas place filled it last time. I have since been certified as a tank inspector (scuba cylinders) and have dubbed myself as a bad example! Hopefully my tank isn't a recalled one and won't descide to explode any time soon! It's also a good idea to have the tank visually inspected. I don't know the requirements for CO2 tanks but SCUBA tanks should be visually inspected once a year (usually) and hydrostatically tested once every 5 years. I assume CO2 has some sort of guidelines as well. > Whatever way you decide to go, make sure you do secure the cylinder, 'cause > not only will it be a rocket, it'll be an uncontrolled rocket that will go > through your house *many* times (including brick walls) And the people who may happen to be in the way. You will also gain a new respect for the things if you view some of the aftermath of tank explosions. Granted, scuba tanks are at about 3000 psi but the 700 psi of a CO2 cylinder is still enough to attract your attention. TTFN - -- Dave Beedle - Unix Support Manager - dbeedle at ilstu.edu - Network Services "Ignorance | http://www.ilstu.edu/~dbeedle/ | Illinois State University being bliss is just great until you get run over by a bus 136A Julian Hall because you never bothered to learn how to cross the road" Normal, IL 61761 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 09:26:00 PDT From: "Toler, Duffy L." <TOLERD at cdnet.cod.edu> Subject: bottles: some flat/some not Brian Kuhl asks in #2014: >Unfortunately and unlike my first good batch, I am having flat beer >problems in SOME bottles and not in others of the same batch. I am >puzzled but would like to question the group for ideas. You might not have gotten the priming sugar mixed well with the beer before bottling. I usually stir *very gently* with a sanitized SS spoon before I begin to bottle. Also, if they were filled to different levels, the amount of headspace could effect the carbonation in individual bottles. Just my $.02 worth! Duffy Toler Sugar Grove, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 09:43:10 cdt From: maxwell at prisminfo.com Subject: PET Bottles and oxidation I know that some people on the list use or want to use PET bottles for beer storage. The consensus is that long term storage (over a month or so) will cause massive oxidation of your precious brew. WELL, I just read somewhere that the PET bottle makers have come up with a new type of bottle for tomato juice (V-8?) that keeps the contents safe from oxygen. Apparently, tomato juice also has a problem with oxidation... Just thought you'd like to know... Maxwell McDaniel Maxwell at prisminfo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 11:01:09 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: Carbonation Question Jim asks about how to keep his beer from foaming when bottling from the keg. What he needs is a counter-pressure bottle filler. Here's how he can make one for (almost) free. What you need: * CO2 tank with two hoses (you can get by with one, but it's harder.) * Two kegs, one with beer, one empty. * A "cobra tap". I have one with a "hose" about 3 inches long that's ideal for this purpose. * A 1 1/2-inch piece of plastic tubing * A 12-inch piece of hard plastic tubing, cut from a racking cane. * A small (number 3?) one-hole stopper that will fit into the mouth of a beer bottle. * Patience & practice What you do: At any time before you want to bottle: 1. Slide the racking cane through the stopper, so that the long part reaches to the bottom of your bottles when the stopper is inserted firmly into the mouth of the bottle. Sanitize it. 2. Attach the cane to the tap with the short plastic tubing. It's hard getting the tubing over the tap -- warming it will help. Before bottling: 1. Chill your beer and bottles as cold as possible. 32F is good. (Sanitize the bottles and cover them with little squares of aluminum foil first.) 2. Flush the empty keg with CO2. I routinely fill my kegs with iodophor, then push it out with CO2 before storing. Thus, my empty kegs are full of CO2. 3. Attach the tank hoses to the "In" connectors on the kegs, and set the pressure to about 10lbs. Make sure that the pressure in the beer keg is not higher than this. To fill a bottle (repeat as many times as necessary): 1. Place the tap-cane assembly onto the empty keg. Do NOT open the tap yet! :-) 2. Push a bottle onto the filler, seating the stopper firmly. Now repeat several times: open and close the tap, pressurizing the bottle. Release the pressure by moving the bottle down slightly. You can also allow a continuous flow of CO2 into (and out of) the bottle, if you prefer. Finish by pushing the bottle firmly onto the stopper and pressurizing it. Close the tap. Do NOT let go of the bottle and stopper -- you want to keep it pressurized. 3. Remove the tap-filler-bottle assembly from the empty keg and attach it to the full keg. Open the tap. No beer should flow because the pressures are equal. 4. Carefully push "up" on the side of the stopper until beer starts flowing slowly into the bottle. This takes strong fingers and good control to do right. After a few gushers you'll get the hang of it! Let the beer flow until the bottle is almost full. Close the tap. Now, gently release the stopper to relieve the pressure in the bottle. You may get a small amount of foaming, but shouldn't get much. 5. Move the whole assembly back to the empty keg. Lower the bottle until the cane (full of beer, still) is just at the beer level in the bottle. Now, *carefully* open the tap *very slightly* so that the remaining beer flows into the bottle, and a little CO2 follows to help drive oxygen from the headspace. 6. Quickly cap the bottle. It sounds like a painful process, but it's not too bad once you get the hang of it. I bottled almost a full case (3 different beers) this way the other night, and got NO BEER ON THE CEILING! And only a little bit on my hands! You've probably got most of the parts already, so it might cost you a grand total of $0! =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 08:09:02 -0700 From: "Clark D. Ritchie" <ritchie at ups.edu> Subject: RE: 'Dating Wyeast Packs' Herb offered some good advice on dating Wyeast packs: > a swelling smack-pack is a quick thrill. We've all been there. > Don't overlook M&F ale yeast or Red Star or Edme. They're all > attractive and should offer stimulating companionship for a fine > brewer such as yourself. However, I would like to add to his comments and issue a warning about the ever present threat of yeast infections. One naughty little strain and it's all over (or so I've been told 8-). ...CDR Clark D. Ritchie, ritchie at ups.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 10:19:04 EST From: "Downing, Greg" <GDowning at organo.com> Subject: Hop Plant Propagation I planted a hop root last year, and need to trim off the excess shoots for the growing season. Is there a way to propagate these shoots? Would the addition of gibberellic acid or some other plant hormone help it out? Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Apr 96 07:48 PDT From: ROTH.TER at SEATTLE.VA.GOV Subject: bottle rocket Subject: BOTTLE ROCKET Date: 17 Apr 96 07:18 PDT Message-Id: <6815308 at SEATTLE.VA.GOV> To: homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com This talk about securing CO2 tanks reminds me of an incident which happened when I was an orderly at a hospital in Bay City, Mich. back in the 60's. We hooked up oxygen tents, and schlepped the tanks around on little hand trucks to which they were strapped, and I'm talking BIG tanks----about 5 feet tall, maybe 75 lbs full. One afternoon a tank tipped over on Dave, just as he passed a concrete stairwell. The tank bounced down the stairs, hit the bottom, and snnapped off the valve----that tank took off, blew through a concrete block wall like tissue paper, hit a Ford Ranchero on the outside and shot up and over the 8 story hospital, making a ghastly whirring roar as it went. It landed on a street corner about 2 blocks away. We were most impressed, especially Dave-- a lot of times he would loop his hand thru the web strap securing the tank to the hand truck "for better control". What a ride that would have been! If the guy in the Ranchero is a homebrewer, maybe he's reading this and taking a trip thru "bad memory lane". Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Apr 1996 10:48:42 -0700 From: "Dave Hinkle" <Dave.Hinkle at aexp.com> Subject: prohibition / flavonoids Russell Mast asks: >> Any members of other faiths know of exceptions made on their behalf? Makes >> sense, considering that certain Native American Tribes here in the SW can >> still grow and use peyote for religious purposes. Separation of church and >> state and all that... > >Can they still? I read some recent cases, in Utah I believe, where some folks >were prosecuted for possession. I'm not positive which nation, I think Ute. > >Either way, the religious exception for Catholics during Prohibition was on >First Amendment grounds, I think. I don't know which nations, but I remember the case you are thinking of. I think what it boiled down to (pun intended) was that only the clergy (medicine men? -I don't know the PC term) could grow & prepare the peyote. Anybody else could be prosecuted. The intent is to permit legitimate, traditional use but prohibit the bogus legal-sidestepping by other wannabes. I think the people in Utah were busted because they were distributing the stuff to anyone willing to pay for it. He also asks about "flavenoids": >Okay, perfesser, what are flavenoids, and how do they get in beer? Somehow, >"particles called wort" doesn't do it for me. Are these melanoidens, tannins, >or something totally different? Is it really a dark/light distinction, or is >there more/less to it? Inquiring minds want to know. Anyone know some facts >about this? I recall reading about flavin in George Fix's "Brewing Science", but I don't remember any connection to the color of the malt. I thought it was a phenolic compund. Going back to a biochem textbook, flavonoids appears to be a class of water-soluble nitrogenous pigments derived from isoalloxazine. Riboflavin (vitamin B2) is an example. Flavin is apparently found in a variety of yellow plant pigments. It's also found in malted barley. I have a feeling that the news media distorted the story to say it was only in "dark beer". What they probably should have said was "all-malt beers", but since the media and the general public are clueless, the story read "dark beers" in contrast to "regular beer" meaning good old American high-adjunct beer. It wouldn't have pleased the budmilloors for the media to say flavenoids were found in just about all beer but theirs. Since budmilloors are big sponsors of the media, I think the story line got slanted to make people think it has to do with the color of the beer rather than the malt content. The big 3 are quite carefull to avoid admitting their beers are high in adjuncts or have the public even know what an "adjunct" is. Gee, didn't most of us beer enthusiasts know that "real beer" has lots of B vitamins in it? And no, it has nothing to do with "The last real beer"! Disclaimer - when it comes to biochem, I don't really know what I'm talking about, but I can fake it from time to time. Hopefully a real expert will go into more depth on this flavonoid topic. Dave H Phoenix, AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 16:48:02 CDT From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) Subject: starters for dry yeast/Copyrights Nigel writes: >CHRISTOPHER DIIORIO asked about making simple starters. I use dry yeast >and have had one batch of beer which did not commence fermenting. I >repplied more dry yeast and off it went. Since then I have made a simple >yeast starter. This is the process: <snip> In his process, Nigel adds dry yeast to a bottle and adds wort to it. If you don't rehydrate your dry yeast, you can have longer lag times than with dry yeast than with Wyeast *without* a starter. I once had a 3 day lag with a package of dry yeast that I did not rehydrate. I regularly get a layer of foam on top within 12 hours with one package of dry yeast, rehydrated for 15-30 minutes in 90-110F water (32-43C). If you insist on using a starter for dry yeast (although I, personally, don't feel it is necessary if you rehydrate), I suggest you rehydrate in 90-110F water, let that cool to 80F while the yeast rehydrates and then pitch that into your starter at 80F (27C). Another reason for having long lag times is temperature-shocking the yeast when it is rehydrating -- i.e. rehydrating in too-cool a liquid, be it water or wort. I don't recall the exact temperature from the Lallemand Newsletter, but it was not much cooler than 90F. While we are on the subject of dry yeast, it wouldn't hurt to mention that it should ideally be refrigerated till use. I've had relatively good luck with dry yeast stored at room temperature, but not nearly as good fermentations as those with refrigerated yeast. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at pubs.att.com Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas P.S. Since this is a short post (well, short for me) and the HBD is not really clogged, I'd like to take this opportunity to address the issue of Copyrights and my notice above. Actually, everything we submit to the HBD or any other place, such as r.c.b. is automatically copyrighted. The reason for my adding this to the end of my posts has to do specifically with a particular person who, at this very moment, is distributing the HBD via CD-ROM. He claims that he is not making any money at this and this may be true, but if I do find out that he is, I'm going to get my cut. I don't mind sharing my knowledge with those of similar interest because I love beer and brewing and enjoy helping people with it. But if the time and effort I take in answering questions is going to be exploited by someone else for their personal profit, then I'm going to take offense. I've recently read that although we don't have to put "Copyright <year> <name>" to be covered in the US, it helps to have it associated with your work if you plan to ever try to get compensated for infringement. It's not that I plan to, but it can't hurt to be on the safe side, can it? Shortly after reading that, I started to add the notice at the end of most of my posts. If you would like to read more about this, see: http://www.benedict.com/fund.htm http://www.mbnet.mb.ca/~psim/copyrt1.html http://www.patents.com/copyrigh.sht Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 12:45:18 PDT From: rjensen at ainet.com (Randy Jensen) Subject: Web page and hello! Fellow brewers, I've been an avid reader of the HBD since about #1980. I've only done two batches and would like to be e-mail pals with other new brewers. That's not the point of this posting however. I just set up an unofficial web page for my local microbrewery, St. Stan's in Modesto, CA. It's _very_ weak on content right now, and I hope to get some support from St. Stan's themselves to fill it up. If you want to check it out, the address is: http://www.ten-four.com/ststans Again, it's weak right now, but keep checking back! Happy brewing! - ---------------------------------------- - rjensen at ainet.com - Randy Jensen - - find me at: - - N37*31'43" W120*53'04" - - ---------------------------------------- "Deep in the chaotic regime, slight changes in structure almost always cause vast changes in behavior. Complex controllable behavior seems precluded. -STUART KAUFFMAN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 14:31:21 -0500 From: cuncaphe at isd.net (Jinjer) Subject: Sunlight on the hops vine I have a couple of thoughts on the question: 1. The hops i've found wild in this area (Minnesota) grow in semi-shade. So maybe the sun isn't much of a problem under those growing conditions. 2. As I understand it, the active principle in hops is the bright-colored powder at the base of the brachts. If this is so, it seems unlikely that it could be affected by sunlight until it is forced from its protective home. Be gentle. This is my first post. P.S. Has anyone tried brewing with dandelion or alehoof (creeping charlie)? My yard's being invaded and I want to put the corpses of the invaders to good use. cuncaphe at isd.net We must look a long time before we can see. (H.D.Thoreau) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 17:58:10 -0400 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Electronic Thermometry Part 2 I've completed the direct-reading (DVM) electronic thermometer and posted the information for direct ftp access at ftp://users.aol.com/thermometer/thermo.zip This file consists of a Windows Write file and several accompanying GIF files. A refrigerator temperature controller and a RIMS controller are in the works for the future. Hope you find it useful. P.S> The diodes won't become skunky until AFTER you install them! Ken Schwartz KennyEddy at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 17:59:26 -0400 From: MSULAX1 at aol.com Subject: Isinglass, bleach sanitation, etc. Greetings from Western New York! I just joined this list a couple days ago, but have some questions which need to be answered. I am attempting to use isinglass for the first time on a 5 gal. batch of porter, but am unsure as to how to correctly proceed. The guy at the local homebrew supply store (Hobby House - Clarence, NY) suggested adding it immediately after pitching the yeast at the inception of fermentation. Another fellow homebrewer suggested adding it 2-3days before bottling. Which, if either, is correct? Is a specific isinglass temp. necessary? Is stirring recommended? I really need detailed instructions to avoid disaster... Please? Secondly, what are possible side effects of incomplete rinsing of bottles & equipment following a bleach soak? I've been triple rinsing all my equipment and especially bottles, but am not really sure if this is enough. Please advise. Finally, I'd like to plug a homebrew supplier that has never failed me for the lowest prices, widest selection, and most knowledgeable staff I've ever encountered. I would strongly recommend it to anyone who has trouble finding exactly what they're looking for. The address & number are as follows: At Home Warehouse Distributors (AHWD) PO Box 185 Clarence, NY 14031-0185 (716) 685-2306 (800) 210-8585 FAX (716) 681-0284 I'm not affiliated with this organization, but feel they could really help some people on this list. Thanks for listening. (reading?) -Todd msulax1 at aol.com morristo at pilot.msu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 18:00:51 -0400 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Electronic Thermometry Part Dieux I've completed the direct-reading (DVM) electronic thermometer and posted the information for direct ftp access at ftp://users.aol.com/kennyeddy/thermometer/thermo.zip This file consists of a Windows Write file and several accompanying GIF files. A refrigerator temperature controller and a RIMS controller are in the works for the future. Hope you find it useful. P.S> The diodes won't become skunky until AFTER you install them! Ken Schwartz KennyEddy at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 16:17:36 -0400 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: Light-skunked beer. Starter question PAUL RYBAK writes ... >With all the talk of light-skunked beer, does this mean I can't >take a pitcher of lager out to my pool in daylight? Definitely true if the pitcher is transparent and the lager is hopped any higher than the megaswill brands. Last summer I wandered into my garden with a glass of ale knowing full well that I was tempting the fates. In a couple of minutes the skunkiness was detectable, in 10 minutes or less it was objectionable. Those German earthenware beer steins with the hinged lids suddenly don't seem so quaint and frivolous - do they ? Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 20:33:24 -0500 From: blacksab at siu.edu Subject: Automated Sparging, revisited. >Date: Sat, 13 Apr 96 15:56 PDT >From: robtrish at mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston) >Subject: U-tubes and auto-sparge > >Harlan <blacksab at siu.edu> mentioned U-tubes a few issues ago. > >*** The problem I had in scaling down this arrangement came from using 1/2" >ID pipe and tubing. Say the wort was running at a rate that would make the >tube half full. What happens is that the capilliary action (?) of the >liquid does not allow it to remain only half full. Instead, the wort >gathers together to fill the tubing for a certain length, then there's a big >bubble and no wort for the next bit, and then another section of tube >completely filled with wort. The sections that are completely full push the >bubbles ahead of them, meaning that I got a lot of bubbling in my collection >pot. If the outlet from the tube wasn't in the wort, then I'd get >splashing. I'm trying to avoid HSA as is the fashion <g>, so I don't like >this bubbling. > Exactly! I tried building an outlet tube that was set at the level of the grainbed, with a TEE pointing up that functioned as a siphon break. It worked, but not very well, and because of the capillary action, the siphon break aerated the wort the way a venturi would. The concept won't scale down to the 3/8-in copper tubing that I use throughout my system. Even without the bubbling, there is another problem: even using just water, because of friction in the tubing (resistence), the water level in the mash tun DOES rise above the highest point in the outfeed, so there is more sparge water IN than there is sweet wort OUT. >This arrangement _does_ reduce the sucking on the bed. (Hey, I'm talking >lauter tun here!). The only problem is what to do with the wort after the >siphon-breaker. Is there a way to break the siphon without having the line >open to the air? For now, I've plugged the opening to my siphon-breaker and >regulate the flow with ball-valves. > Yes and no--Here's how I think the U-tube is supposed to work in theory, but not at a small scale (speculation to follow): The inverted U IS the siphon break. The distance between the top of the U and the bottom of the outfeed leg function as the set points, ie, the sparge water fills the mash tun until it can induce a siphon over the top of the U. The siphon increases the flow rate, thereby draining the grainbed. But as soon as the level in the grainbed falls to the level of the bottom of the outfeed leg, the siphon is broken, and the mash tun must again fill high enough to induce a siphon over the top of the U. Therefore, if the distance between the top of the U and the bottom of the outlet tube were say 6-in, then in a large mash, the sparge water level would fluctuate 6-in. Since the outfeed of sweet wort is not contained in tubing or a pipe, the bubbling is eliminated as well as the capillary action that Rob pointed to. The sweet wort simply drains into the boiling kettle in a steady stream. >In short, I found that a valve is an easier way to control run-off. That's how I've been doing it. I set the runoff from the mash tun, and then manually regulate the amount of sparge water I spray over the top of the grainbed. I try to maintain no more than 1/4-in above the grainbed. It works fine this way, I was just looking for a way to slave the sparge water input to the sweet wort out. Hence, automated, hands-off sparging. >>QUESTION #1: Is this what I am seeing (or something like it) in the picture >on p.67 of Eric Warner's GERMAN WHEAT BEER? > >This looks like a close-up of the same sort of thing that's on p.91 of >Richman's Bock. Since the tube in the picture(s) goes up and down the same >distance and is completely filled with liquid, it would have no effect on >the hydrostatic head. Perhaps it is intended to reduce splashing? > If I understand the theory (see above), then it would--the bottom of the U-tube would function as a siphon break, so the water level in the mash tun could never fall below that level. If the bottom of the U-pipe was level with the top of the grainbed, the water level would never drop below it, and the mash would sort of float. >I looked at the picture in J.S. Hough's THE BIOTECHNOLOGY OF MALTING AND >BREWING p.58 too. Harlan wrote: > >>... what seems to be happening is this tube takes >the liquid from the bottom of the mash-tun (the highest gravity), but not >until the head has exceeded the top of the grain-bed. As such, the flow of >sparge water dictates the outflow of wort from the mash tun since there is >no longer any siphon. > >I have never done a mash where the results matched the description of the >classical British 'floating' mash, so I'm guessing here. I think that the >top of the U-tube would be at a point where you have some runoff before you >have any sparge added. Hough does write on p. 61 that "... the rate of >sparging more or less compensates for the rate of wort run-off from the >tun." The 'U'-tube is described as a "device for _adjusting_ hydrostatic >head..." so I take it that the U-tube is adjustable. (Okanagan Springs was, >Upper Canada wasn't). I'm guessing that even a floating mash does contract, >and so the top of the mash becomes lower and the U-tube is adjusted to match >this. > Yes, I think you are exactly right. As I said above, I think the U-tube functions as a high/low guage. >I don't know if a U-tube can help automate your sparging. If there was only >water and no grain, for every drop of sparge in, you'd get a drop out. Nope, that's what I thought too, but we both forgot about resistence within the dip tube and outlet tube. I tried it with just water and the water level continued to rise above the theoretical set point. There needs to be a certain amount of new sparge water on top to PUSH the water thru the tubing. I think this might work on a large scale, where LOTS of water is being sprayed on a large mash, but my Phil's sparge arm (which I love, BTW) doesn't add enough water to push the overflow out, and so, it accumulates until there is enough weight to overcome the resistence of the pipes. >with the grain, you _can_ add lots of sparge without getting _anything_ out. >You're relying on the bed remaining very fluffy and permeable. > I use an EasyMasher and my grainbed does remain VERY fluffy. BTW, I do my mashing-in in a 5-gal bucket, adding hot water to it slowly (a spigot from the boiling kettle) until I have thoroughly mixed in 1.33-qts of mash water for each pound of grain. Then I pour this into my mash tun and heat to the set temperature... >It's a great idea, though, and I hope it works for you. Please keep up posted. > It was; it didn't; and I have...;-D Thanks for the input Rob. I had really hoped it would work, Harlan ====================================================================== Harlan Bauer ...malt does more than Milton can <blacksab at siu.edu> To justify God's ways to man. Carbondale, IL --A.E. Houseman ====================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 21:00:53 -0600 (MDT) From: mel0083 at mcdata.com (Michael Lausin) Subject: In HBD #2013 Jim Nasiatka-Wylde asked... > OK... it's my turn for a question. I just completed my first attempt > at using a CO2 tank for carbonation on a corny keg, and have run into > a problem that I didn't imagine happening. > > After carbonating, during bottleing, the dissolved CO2 rapidly > comes out of solution in the hose running from the corny keg to the > bottle, causing it to come out as 98% foam (well ok, maybe only 95% :) Try a counter pressure bottle filler bottle it has a couple of valves that hook up to your co2 tank and to the corny keg. It basically pressurizes (and purges the air at the same time) the bottle with co2 and then you run the beer into it while you bleed off the co2. We had a demo at our homebrew club (KROC) meeting a few months ago. The November 95 issue of Brew Your Own magazine has an article on how to build one. HTH Michael Lausin michael at mcdata.com Member of the Keg Ran Out Club Westminster, Co http://www.mcdata.com/~mel0083/brewing.html Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 00:02:39 -0400 From: bob at carol.net (Robert Rogers) Subject: co2 bottles wow, y'all scared me with all the talk of co2 rockets... i have straped mine to the corny keg for tonight, and i plan on making a box for it ASAP bob -- brewing in the buckle of the bible belt bob rogers, bob at carol.net Return to table of contents