HOMEBREW Digest #2018 Tue 23 April 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  copyright (Rolland Everitt)
  celebrities (Wallinger)
  Testing CO2 Tanks (UTC -04:00)" <rich.byrnes at e-mail.com>
  Bottling for competition (Denis Barsalo)
  Re:Flavenoids (Russell Mast)
  copyright (ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT)
  Temp changes (Rosenzweig,Steve)
  Brewing early and PLAID! (ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT)
  Philly -> DC Brews Cruise (Joe Uknalis)
  All-grain recipe (George Hoenninger)
  dry ice in brewing ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
  CaraPils and Dextrine in the Wort (Bunning W Maj ACC/DOTE)
  Carbonator (Mike Urseth)
  To rack or not to rack (Dave Mercer)
  U.S. Open competition results ("Keith Royster")
  First Beer Taste (Milton Cook)
  Re: Flavenoids (Debisschop)
  Recipes for wine ("MK3052")
  Ropy Kite. (Russell Mast)
  Dry Ice, Maple Syrup. (Russell Mast)
  Explain My Extract Yield Increase! (Marty Tippin)
  Reverse Osmosis Filtered Water (Jeff Jones)
  mini-keg suppliers (Graham Cunningham)
  My clean out the closet recipie (Mike White)
  Long slow fermentation (TBrouns)
  Kegs - Ball vs. Pin Lock ("Stephen Palmer")

****************************************************************** * POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** ################################################################# # # YET ANOTHER NEW FEDERAL REGULATION: if you are UNSUBSCRIBING from the # digest, please make sure you send your request to the same service # provider that you sent your subscription request!!! I am now receiving # many unsubscribe requests that do not match any address on my mailing # list, and effective immediately I will be silently deleting such # requests. # ################################################################# NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS hpfcmgw! Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 07:53:26 -0400 From: af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Rolland Everitt) Subject: copyright I have an article on copyright in general with particular application to articles posted on on-line discussion groups. It is too long to post here, but I will be glad to email a copy to anyone who makes the request (private email please). The article was written by Brad Templeton. Rolland Everitt af509 at osfn.rhilinet.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 06:51:31 -0500 From: Wallinger <wawa at datasync.com> Subject: celebrities Person A. ...Russell Mast, probably one of the most intelligent man in the northern hemisphere Person B. As for the creeping charlie thing, I have no clue,I've heard they're good with napalm. (I couldn't resist. Apologies to anyone with good taste, that was really bad.) -R Any resemblance between these two individuals is puely cooincidental...:-) Wade Wallinger Pascagoula, Mississippi http://www.datasync.com/~wawa Sorry Russell, I couldn't resist either! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 08:34:42 EDT From: "Rich Byrnes USAET(UTC -04:00)" <rich.byrnes at e-mail.com> Subject: Testing CO2 Tanks Greetings from Motown, well close enough anyways As far as hydro-testing CO2 tanks my advice is CALL AROUND! And yes, I was yelling! I found a place that really specializes in dry ice but also does a nice business with plain old CO2 gas. They test tanks for $8 (and fill my 20lber for the same.) I have also found a welding gas supplier that would fill a 20lb tank of CO2-N2 mixture for $8, but a hydro test runs about $20, so the moral is "let your fingers do the walking!" Look up carbonation, welding gases, dry ice, gas, etc in your yellow pages and you might be surprised what you come up with. Regards,_Rich Byrnes Jr Fermental Order of Renaissance Draughtsmen \\\|/// phone #(313)323-2613, fax #390-4520_______o000_(.) (.)_000o Rich.Byrnes at E-mail.com (_) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:40:53 -0500 From: denisb at cam.org (Denis Barsalo) Subject: Bottling for competition I've been making beer for over a year now and have been brewing all grain for about six months. I'm starting to make some really good beer from some of my formulated recipes and I would like to enter some in competition so I can get some feedback from "decent" beer judging. My problem is, that I bottle exclusively with swing-top bottles (Grolsch like) and these are not usually accepted in competition. Can someone please tell me why? Would it be possible to "transfer" the beer from one of my swing-tops to another type of bottle without introducing to much oxygen, and without loosing too much carbonation? I could even leave behind the sediment! I guess I should just crimp a few ordinary bottles (like 6 to 8) and save those for competition. If the beer turns out to be another winner, I'll already have it in "regular" bottles to ship out to the judges! But seeing how I've accumulated a few hundred swing-tops, I don't really have anymore room for bottle storage. Any advice would be apreciated. Thanks Denis Barsalo Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:07:53 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Re:Flavenoids > I suspect that guy at UW owes us some > answers about why darker beers contain more than lighter beers. He should > also explain that statement about "particles called wort" being removed from > lighter beers, if in fact those *were* his words. In fairness to Dr. Folts, I should pint out that the article I read was from an AP newswire, and he likely had little control over the content thereof. Still, I would like to know what gives beer flavenoids, and why some are more equal than others. > My recommendation? Be on the safe side, drink a glass of porter every day. I'll tell the barkeep "My pharmacist recommended this." -R Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:23:59 -0500 From: ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT <skotrat at wwa.com> Subject: copyright >i'm not a lawyer, so i don't give legal advice, but: >yes, you have a natural copyright... >but, you can only sue if you register it. >the gentleman in question, if he is duping HBD to CD ROM is violating the >natural copyrights of everyone who posts. we could technically launch a >class action suit against him, but since none of us has any money involved >(excluding any home brewing authors, of course) it might be hard to prove >any sort of monetary damages. >i would be interested in obtaining the CD, though, since i could erase all >the old digests from my hard drive. >bob -- brewing in the buckle of the bible belt. >bob rogers, bob at carol.net Anything that you write and is your orginal product that is published with your name on it is owned by you. You have all power to allow who uses it and who doesn't use it from a legal standpoint. It is not public domain. Scott - ------------------------------ #################################################### # Scott Abene # # skotrat at wwa.com # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat # # (Skotrats Official Homebrew "Beer Slut" Webpage) # # "Get off your dead ass and brew" # #################################################### Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 07:29:15 PDT From: Steve_Rosenzweig at wb.xerox.com (Rosenzweig,Steve) Subject: Temp changes In HBD 2016, David asks about temperature changes affecting his beer: >I store my bottles of beer in an unused room >in my apartment to age out. We never heat it during the winter because it >would cost too much (electric heat's durn expensive!). Now in the spring >we will experience 70 degree weather on day and 30 degree weather the >very next (I live in Montana where it's actually the weather that's >crazy, not the people :). Could the radical change in temperature (more >like a difference of 20 F inside the room) shock the yeast and kill it or >something? Temp fluctuations may wreak havoc on your aging beer - my guess is that it can't be beneficial. My experience says that carbonation is mostly done after a week, so I keep my cases at around 68F for the first week after bottling then move them to the basement - so you might want to keep them out of that room initially, then move them in for longer term storage/aging. For your case, if practical in your storage room, you could get a plastic utility tub or two, put your bottles in that, and fill the tub with water up to the neck of the bottles. If you are _really_ confident of your capping job, I suppose you could fill the entire thing and put as many bottles as possible - all that should happen is possibly rusty caps . . . The water will create a thermal blanket that will ease the sway of temperatures. This is also a good trick to use for primary/secondary fermenting as well if you don't have a good temp controlled environment. Stephen Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:30:39 -0500 From: ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT <skotrat at wwa.com> Subject: Brewing early and PLAID! >Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 07:07:47 -0400 (EDT) >From: CHRISTOPHER DIIORIO <pher at acc.msmc.edu> >Subject: Brewing before 6am... > >All, > >Well, I have just learned the hard way that, no matter HOW bad you want to >do it, you shouldn't brew before 6am (at least not alone). >what I call successful, starter when, in my blurry haze, I knocked >the bottle over, spilling it all over the floor! I saved about 20% that >didn't spill, but my "perfect" starter went all over everywhere. >Now, I'm not AGAINST brewing before the sun comes up, or after it is LONG >gone, its just that I recommend doing so with a partner. In the very >least, you can have someone to complain to (and maybe even blame?, just >kidding) if your starter/wort/brew pot is knocked over. > >Chris DiIorio >(Boy, this homebrew in my coffee mug is Darn good, just don't tell my boss!) > >BTW -- I was wearing PLAID boxer shorts, could this have been the cause? Now how many times does this problem need to be discussed before these damn Homebrewers get it through their skulls... One more time... DO NOT... I REPEAT! DO NOT BREW AROUND PLAID (the dark side is too strong)!!! This is no joking matter. An awful lot of brewers just don't seem to follow this simple rule. Hey Pat Babcock!!! Would you please post a some of your horrors of brewing around plaid. Have you all forgotten that Pat has a carboy making its way to the basement steps? We now take you back to your "PLAID FREE" scheduled HBD program. These comments are copyright 1996, by the Boston Brewing Company & Little Jimmy Koch (you copy me or have a product that even rhymes with anything I sell or make and I'll sue your sorry ass) > >------------------------------ > #################################################### # Scott Abene # # skotrat at wwa.com # # http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat # # (Skotrats Official Homebrew "Beer Slut" Webpage) # # "Get off your dead ass and brew" # #################################################### Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:47:21 -0500 (EST) From: Joe Uknalis <juknalis at ARSERRC.Gov> Subject: Philly -> DC Brews Cruise Dear Homebrewers- On Saturday May 11 Homebrewers of Philly & Suburbs (HOPS) is running a bus trip from Philly to 3 DC brewpubs (see details below). If you are in the Phila/South Jersey area and would like to come give Gwyn Rector a call at (215) 635-4257 by this Friday. Cost is $45 HOPS members/$50 nonmember. Saturday May 11 8:30 Meet at Adams Mark Hotel, City Line. Cruise down on bus equipped with VCR, frig & toilet. noon- The Big Hunt. Choice of chicken breast, hamburger or grilled cheese. Generous sampler of 4 or 5 local brews. 2:30 Cap City 5 beer tutored tasting & tour of brewery 4:00 Bardo. Choice of grilled portabello baguette, chicken tenderloin or turkey sausage. 4 brew sampler & tour. 5 pool tables reserved Other beer bars (notably Blue & Gold) in walking distance from Bardo. 8:00 Head back to Philly thanks for use of the bandwith Joe Uknalis HOPS prez. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 11:13:05 -0400 From: George Hoenninger <george at smarts.com> Subject: All-grain recipe I recently tried my first all-grain batch and the results were very disappointing. After carefully going over the whole procedure I was able to pinpoint many of my mistakes. I would like to know, if this recipe sounds like a good one? I would like to try it again and see how the beer improves by fixing my errors. Any suggestions or modifications to the recipe would be welcome. Here is the recipe: Ingredients: (5 gal.) 10 lbs. British Pale Ale Malted Barley 1 lb. Roasted Unmalted Barley 1 lb. Flaked Barley 2 lbs. Flaked Oats 1 lb. Chocolate Malted Barley 1 lb. Crystal 40L 1 lb. Black Malted Barley 2 lbs. Dark Malt Extract (For an X-tra kick) 3 oz. Centennial Hop Pellets (Boiling) 1 oz. Tettnang Hop Pellets (Finishing) #1028 Brewers Choice London Liquid Yeast OG 1.096 FG 1.024 Alcohol Content about 9.5% Also, how much will step mashing improve the overall product? Is it worth doing? You can either post your responses to the list or e-mail me directly (george at smarts.com). Thanks in advance for everybody's help and input. A new and hopefully improving brewer. George Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:36:33 -0500 From: "MICHAEL L. TEED" <MS08653 at msbg.med.ge.com> Subject: dry ice in brewing .int homebrew at hpfcmgw.fc.hp.com Having become curious again over the dry ice in brewing thread, I asked a chemist at one of our major corn based adjunct brewing companies about the possibility of contaminants, especially oil in the dry ice. His response is that there is very little concern for contaminants, and that there are steps in their process that use it. They test for oil by dissolving the dry ice in clean water and add a chip of camphor to the water, if there is any oil present, the camphor will scoot around on the surface of the water. According to him, this test is done for security, and they have never found a problem with the dry ice. Hope this helps satisfy the curiousity. BTW, bring on more of the automated sparge thread! Would love to see mine take less time and 'adjustment'. Any good ideas on how to throttle down the outgoing end of the lautertun? I have been using a restrictor on the end of my hose, but that can get clogged up by grain husks rather easily. I was thinking about making a new copper tube bottom with approx .050" holes, using about 15-20 of them. My current version with 1/16" holes can flow as fast as a 5/16 hose can carry it out. Any comments on how well this might work? TIA. Mike Teed Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 10:29:00 +6 From: Bunning W Maj ACC/DOTE <bunningw at ns.langley.af.mil> Subject: CaraPils and Dextrine in the Wort I asked this question a week or so ago and didn't receive any responses. I can't believe with the combined knowledge of the collective that I can't get a response. If you take that as a challenge, it is! Carapils malt or Dextrin malt is suppose to add unfermentables and dextrin to the finished product. I can see how this works when added as specialty grains to an extract-based beer since there's no enzymes to break the dextrin down. However, when doing an all-grain mash, do the enzymes break the dextrin down into simpler sugars (depending on mash temperature, of course)? Or, do the dextrin chains remain intact (would also apply to caramel and dark roasted malts), and if they do, why? Inquiring minds want to know. Bill Bunning Member of the mile-high brewer's guild The following binary file has been uuencoded to ensure successful transmission. Use UUDECODE to extract. begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^( at H.`0:0"``$```````!``$``0>0! at `(````Y`0```````#H``$- at `0` M` at ````(`` at `!"X`!`"$```!".31#.35!,#1&.31#1C$Q0C$W030T-#4U,S4T M,#`P,`#P! at $( at `<`&````$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0 at 36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`02` M`0`B````0V%R85!I;', at 86YD($1E>'1R:6YE(&EN('1H92!7;W)T`.D+`06` M`P`.````S`<$`!8`" at `A``<``0` at `0$ at at `,`# at ```,P'!``6``H`%``3``$` M'P$!"8`!`"$````Y038S-S=&1C%%.4-#1C$Q0C$W030T-#4U,S4T,#`P,``' M!P$$D`8`,`$```$````,`````P``,`(````+``\.``````(!_P\!````4 at `` M````````8)1D8$&X`0 at `*RN**0``CC1=`&0`& at `W`!L````4`"=(;VUE($)R M97< at 1&EG97-T)P!H;VUE8G)E=T!H<&9C;6=W+F9C+FAP+F-O;0```!X``C`! M````!0```%--5%``````' at `#,`$````;````:&]M96)R97=`:'!F8VUG=RYF M8RYH<"YC;VT```,`%0P!`````P#^#P8````>``$P`0```!,````G2&]M92!" M<F5W($1I9V5S="<```(!"S`!````(````%--5%`Z2$]-14)215=`2%!&0TU' M5RY&0RY(4"Y#3TT``P``.0`````+`$`Z``````(!] at \!````!`````````(! M- at $#D`8`1`<``!`````+`",```````,`) at ``````"P`I```````#`#8````` M`$``.0"`QI>?6#"[`1X`<``!````( at ```$-A<F%0:6QS(&%N9"!$97AT<FEN M92!I;B!T:&4 at 5V]R=`````(!<0`!````&P````&[*)P]UJ"53+^43Q'/L7I$ M15-4```![J8<(``#``80:]/E# at ,`!Q!U` at ``' at `($`$```!E````24%32T5$ M5$A)4U%515-424].05=%14M/4E-/04=/04Y$1$E$3E1214-%259%04Y94D53 M4$].4T5324-!3E1"14Q)159%5TE42%1(14-/34))3D5$2TY/5TQ%1$=%3T94 M2$5#3P`````"`0D0`0```/(%``#N!0``Q`L``$Q:1G4W at 6VT-P`)`S`!`C4` M\ at M at ;F?P,3`S,P'W`?$.``/4B0(`8V at *P'-E=`+1X'!R<3( at !Q," at `*1%0CF M.PEO,!)/93(U_C43>A21%$\561-D%8(3[Q\7OQ=]%O\5+Q-_93$R_C at =2AYA M'A\?*1-D'U(=OY\ACR%-(,\>_R+$.3(F!0\G<1^3)W`" at G-T>6PU!Y!H">!T M```#\&1C/'1L"K,/ at P'0`S!S;GQE>!"0![`%L`#``G,J#0C0<PZ0`S!A9&1I M0'1I=F4 at 1`$0851U;`5`4`K`80G`8;!P:"!&`B$HHS$.`/<IIPH at "R!R"5`O M at A``+X)L=S0<L1! at <"JB*EAB^F$0<&0"(`%`*N,NL"UP&P40`C`M+A`#83H at M5$)O,Z!3=6)J!9!T03. at 1&%T93HN9#;_+M\O[S#S*3`L<`N`#H`6`#\JL0PP M*E01`#'/,M=29>,LT!!A($AE+'`$D"YD[C<U7S9O-WLP/Q`X>`%`R0Y4,C0Y M+S$X.L$+4+QY+RX at ,'`+$3M%<RYD_Q]P/#\]3S$/0.]!^3/",V07-)4KPQ) at M= at )1('M50&YK;F]W; at *!0DQU; at ,`#G` at 5P7080)J$1!#0R]$3U3F11%Q`54S M- at %`*:%*H/<IT$1A`8!N-"``8`GP+(#^;P# at `A`K<#?"+.`"`!"!&RO2-+!M M"U$TL"!#.A1<7`7 at 3P$ at :6-EM5" at 5PN`=P6P"S!<4`#I"W!L+CF0=$R`$'`I MT+]" at #_P"X`K``%`3E%N*4`W$F!*0"OA<`"`!9!L=M9L`%!44'4%`&U40 at &0 M_P` at 5-(+ at `$``C`!P51!$$"?#G```%10#-`!D"`N283_5%8G at %3R+5!$$%5O M5G]7CSXS5$$% at 5DO6C];3VPTW51!;%CO7:]>M2E7O`X`QUR/86]>I&( at *`*1 M8H__5(,U0&`_9/]F#V<?5+`\$/]H8E4_:<]JWU>\'W!H;VWO]V[_<`]4L#EL MWW)O<W]TA1\*^0,P*:\JL"O28FMM<FMV8R!?2Z`#$#218?Y]"HIZ& at `!.N`$ M``F`2=)9+3!T:`!02>%D`D!M(#8S-S at T`=`V.: at at 22`Y8&L) at "!_4-D$`"!Q M"E`HX&D"(("P)"!W">!K(`6Q<V_M at +!G at K%.8"`LD%. at `!#_ at 7!28"S at !4`2 M8%$ at +,(`<!YYA"%%D`( at $'!S?2[N('Y??V^`<V,`<`*1A>_-AOPW*K&#IV)E M4Q`ZX?8 at B%^);S>` at `/PC,"!$7\LX`6 at !M!3(4*`2H(I$&329RS at ;V:.56PI M$"G0GRS"C,`TH(N_C,\P."JP_DF13Y)?C>&1/Y2ODU*((;^#F(^ at !4!?`(3V MA9!)C^#V>0A at at 1!A at ."0Y#E at at ?''$#&080YP92P at +*"<('AS(2`*A98/EQ^` M<4/Z?2V1<`,0!"`K at 05`!;$?+0`K$#,!G_2!07-U<-N%(#LA=(*Q+(` at 2Q!/ M</\K<'<A`:`I$8,$H)6B`8YB?U$``P`I,4*`$-`$<%40=,^%D8 at # at I`)X"!H M2J"!%/]1D7O0 at A`I0('A+("`\9LQ_T60!9`',2CPF1`MH`N`!"#_H at (#H*"2 M`-`S,#E3BS$$D/^"D`N`42".4A) at at Y8$($J0^:F0;GH&P`>1H at %$,#M at KX)0 MCF*CIDUA;H612$J at ?SKBG!"G4SF02T(#D9NA+?^HTY_Q*3"<$#F0CE.L5JT/ M?ZX3G"`",(*P`)!0$:JB=?YG$%%T``$`J$!.8$M" at ='_L**!$%`!!)`TH`AP MG`&/T:<%H`AP$'`I/X6 at 3Z[Q_[$%HZ80,:D"$F!2`;-#J>'_=`!1D"U`I^&? MT(*QH:!!\/^A\H at at +:`' at `, at at Q,*P()0GP- at .6`TL$*`H`)S*9P0OX,2!I". M4H30.9"O`GFW0;1);H%P:3,!2V!M=O'?IM$`<`5`H at %* at BX*A0J%_D(#$`, at M2P4*A9TOER\JL/Q-?5``BT`%P(_5OU`I$/HM at 3!G+ at "Q\8( at 1!"KESYGON"Z M,'MF3E%\.7T``<DP```#`!`0``````,`$1``````0``',"`"XM56,+L!0``( ;,"`"XM56,+L!' at `]``$````!`````````))O ` end Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 11:33:25 -0600 From: beernote at realbeer.com (Mike Urseth) Subject: Carbonator The problem with your use of the Carbonator is that it is not designed to be removed and the bottle recapped. The Carbonator should be used as the cap. Of course that does not deal with your cost concerns. Bottles to pass out to friends should probably be done the "old fashioned" bottle-conditioned way. Another alternative that I've heard (but not tried myself) is to get some Schrader valves (tire valve stems) from your local auto supply store. Drill a hole in the PET bottle cap (about 3/8" - measure the hole in a wheel) - and insert the valve stem from the inside of the cap. All you need to do is add a standard tire fitting on the end of a CO2 line and go from there. Cost should be less than a buck a piece. Not as slick as the commercial unit, but the price is right. Mike Urseth Editor & Publisher Midwest Beer Notes 339 Sixth Avenue Clayton, WI 54004 715-948-2990 ph. 715-948-2981 fax e-mail: beernote at realbeer.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 08:06:00 -0700 From: Dave Mercer <dmercer at path.org> Subject: To rack or not to rack Three weeks ago, planning ahead for the winter, I brewed a barleywine. The wort went straight from my chiller onto the primary dregs of a fairly high-gravity IPA that had spent two weeks in primary before I transferred it, that morning, to a secondary fermenter. So. The BW got lots of yeast (Wyeast 1098), though surely inadequate oxygen (the only method I have besides shaking is the 'holes in a piece of racking cane' trick that was discussed here a few months back.) It took off very quickly: airlock activity within four hours, active fermentation with a thick kreuzen within 12 hours. Then it seemed to slow down to nothing after about 4 days but when I tested it, as I expected, it was still WAY underdone (O.G. 1.095; after 1 week, 1.060) so I left it alone, meaning to give it at least another week before tranferring and, maybe, pitching some fresh yeast. Well, I got busy and was unable to transfer right at two weeks. Now, at three weeks, it seems to have taken on new life. There's lots of airlock activity, a creamy white layer of foam on top, the gravity continues to drop (now at 1.048). I tasted some when I took last night's reading, and it tasted fine (no off flavors, although still obviously too sweet). My question: I'm nervous about it sitting on all that old yeast and trub but nervous about moving it off (I've had batches stop cold when I've racked too early and this one still has at least 20 points to drop). What should I do? What should I do? Dave M. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 12:58:48 -0500 From: "Keith Royster" <keith.royster at ponyexpress.com> Subject: U.S. Open competition results The U.S. Open homebrewing competition was held this past weekend. Thanks to everyone who entered. With almost 200 entries, you helped make this year's U.S. Open very successful. In the interest of saving bandwith you can view the results online at: http://www.wp.com/ at your.service/cbm/brewmast.html Keith Royster - Mooresville, NC, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:27:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Milton Cook <PMCOOK at Gems.VCU.EDU> Subject: First Beer Taste OK, my first batch has been in the bottle for a little over two weeks. It is a Williams Brewery Brown Ale. I Followed the recipe that came with it exactly. It spent one week in the primary and I let it sit another week in a secondary until I was ready to bottle. Added the priming sugar, bottled then waited. Here's the problem. Now after two weeks in the bottle I have a alcoholic club soda that is colored brown. There is very little taste in the beer. I guess it is not infected because there is no raunchy taste or smell. Just a well carbonated alcoholic club soda. Has anyone in the collective experienced this problem and better yet does anyone know the cause/remedy. I plan on starting my next batch in a few days and do not want this to happen again. Private or Public response. TIA Milton Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:55:07 -0400 From: Debisschop at aol.com Subject: Re: Flavenoids In a message dated 96-04-22 10:03:27 EDT, rmast at fnbc.com (Russell Mast) writes: > >> I suspect that guy at UW owes us some >> answers about why darker beers contain more than lighter beers. He should >> also explain that statement about "particles called wort" being removed from >> lighter beers, if in fact those *were* his words. > >In fairness to Dr. Folts, I should pint out that the article I read was from >an AP newswire, and he likely had little control over the content thereof. Right, exactly, which is why I said *if* those were his words. If not, thats some weird word scrambling by the AP. >Still, I would like to know what gives beer flavenoids, and why some are more >equal than others. Me too. That guys knows. Maybe we should send him a letter. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:40:26 EST From: "MK3052" <MK3052KF at stem.indstate.edu> Subject: Recipes for wine Greetings and salutations I am an Indiana State student looking for good homemade wine recipes (preferrably red). Anybody have an award winner? Thanx, Krystal Faller Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:55:41 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Ropy Kite. > From: bob at carol.net (Robert Rogers) > Subject: copyright > the gentleman in question, if he is duping HBD to CD ROM is violating the > natural copyrights of everyone who posts. we could technically launch a > class action suit against him, but since none of us has any money involved > (excluding any home brewing authors, of course) it might be hard to prove > any sort of monetary damages. > i would be interested in obtaining the CD, though, since i could erase all > the old digests from my hard drive. The solution is clear, then. We wait for this guy to publish the CD ROM, and then run a class action lawsuit and demand a free copy of the CD for each of us. Maybe someone should jump the gun and release it as a "co-op" type of effort. Like, non-profit for us guys, just pay the cost of the CD plus a tiny bit to cover the time of some dude to put it together. Maybe with the proceeds going to some worthy cause. (Like free beer for Russ.) -Russell Mast Copyright 1996, Roger Roberts Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 14:21:16 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Dry Ice, Maple Syrup. > From: cdp at chattanooga.net (C.D. Pritchard) > Subject: Dry ice for air purge & automatic sparge control > Dry ice in a sealed vessel makes a pretty powerful bomb. A tablespoon full > in a capped 2 liter plastic pop bottle is said to be enough to blow the > bottle up. We used to use about 3 tbsp or so, and even on a hot day that would take 10-30 minutes. But, yeah, it really blows the heck out of the thing. And those are really loud. The bottle is torn to little shreds, too. I would think this could cause painful cuts if you're too close, so be careful. I would estimate that in a regular strength (not designed to be refilled) bottle, a couple grains would take a day or two to blow up. So, uh, don't use this to carbonate your beer. (We got bored with dry ice and moved up to HCl and Al foil. Those go off faster, but not as loud, because the plastic is weakened by the heat. I think this makes some nasty fumes, though, so again, don't try this yourself at home.) > From: Mike Kidulich <mjkid at ix.netcom.com> > Subject: Priming with maple syrup I recently read, I think in Cider Digest, someone say that the recommended dosage for priming beer is 6 oz for 5 gallons. (I always use 3/4 cup, but I always pack it the same, and so forth.) If this is correct, and my calculations are accurate, this will raise the SG of your beer by about .003 or so. So, figure out how much maple to use on that basis. (Take an SG reading of it, and work from there.) So, like, if it's 1.060, you'd want to use approximately 1/20th of a gallon to prime five gallons. I'm not 100% positive on the .003 number, though. Anyone more certain? (It's a decent ballpark figure, though, I think.) I asked about this on Cider Digest, but I'll ask here, too. Lactose is often used as a sweetener for some beers (etc). Would someone who is "lactose intolerant" have a bad reaction to the levels of lactose used to sweeten a beer (or cider or mead)? Even if so, how much would one use? -Russell Mast Copyright 1996 Mark Hosler Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:38:09 -0500 From: Marty Tippin <martyt at sky.net> Subject: Explain My Extract Yield Increase! I've now done about 6 batches in my converted keg "pseudo-RIMS" system and have gotten consistently higher extract yields from the grain than my old system. I'm wondering if others with similar systems have seen the same sort of increase or if I'm just getting lucky... Background: The mash/lauter tun in my new system consists of a Sankey keg with a Sabco folding SS false bottom (many of you have probably seen my web page detailing the system; if not, the URL is below). I use a magnetic drive pump to recirculate the wort during the entire mash, and a propane burner under the kettle for temperature boosting and maintenance. The old system was an easy-masher in a 34-qt. enamel-on-steel kettle, with an electric stove and the oven for temperature boosting and maintenance. My usual mash schedule for both systems is pretty much the 40-60-70c schedule advocated by Dr. Fix (about 30 minutes at each step), with a mash-out at 165F for about 10 minutes. Sparging is done with 168F, pH 5.7 water at a rate of about 5 or 6 minutes per gallon (it was a little slower in the old system; more like 10 minutes per gallon). Since starting to use the new system, my extract yields have gone from a consistent 28 to 29 pts/lb/gal to 34+ pts/lb/gal! The first couple of batches, this caught me totally off guard and I wound up with a much higher OG than I intended... I've been trying to figure out what it is about the new system that caused this huge (18%+) increase in my efficiency - the most likely cause seems to be the fact that I'm recirculating the wort during the entire mash - my guess here is that I'm exposing the grain to more enzymes, more uniformly than I used to (in the easymasher system, I stirred every 15 minutes or so) Another thing it could be is the stainless steel false bottom vs. the easy masher, but it seems like I've seen results that said there were negligible differences between the two. The only other factors that come to mind are possibly better temperature accuracy and control - the hysteresis of my old system seemed to be a bit more than the new one; I can hit my target temps now and stay within a degree or so for 45 minutes or longer if necessary I'm interested in any ideas or comments as to whether the recirculation of the mash really causes the higher efficiency, and what implications this might have for others - perhaps it would be a good idea (if one were interested in increased yield) to stir the grainbed constantly or otherwise find some way of recirculating the wort. Thanks! -Marty martyt at sky.net http://www.sky.net/~martyt/2tier.html - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #24: Never underestimate the martyt at sky.net | power of human stupidity. - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my 2-Tier Converted Keg Brewing System Design Plans at http://www.sky.net/~martyt/2tier.html - -------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 14:03:23 PDT From: Jeff Jones <jeffj at hpcmra.sj.hp.com> Subject: Reverse Osmosis Filtered Water While in the past I have boiled all my brewing water, I have found it easier, on may occasions, to go to the supermarket and buy filtered water for $0.25/gal (just bring in my carboy and fill'er up). The dispenser says it is carbon filtered and UV sanitized, but I just realized it also says it is reverse osmosis filtered. Since I've recently begun playing with salt additions to match brewing water to my beer style, I'm concered my use of R.O. water has thrown off my water calculations. Can someone with appropriate knowledge tell me what ions are removed and/or added in the reverse osmosis filter process. Also, just as a sanity check, my first impression of distilled water is that it contains no (or almost no) ions. Is this correct? - -- jeff jones, shade-tree chemist - --------------------------------------------------------------------- This is a test of the Internet Network News Posting Service... This is only a test... If this had been a real emergency, I'd have lit outta here long ago, and you'd have never known until it was too late. - --------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 22:21:51 +0100 From: Graham Cunningham <Graham at graham7.demon.co.uk> Subject: mini-keg suppliers Could someone please tell me where I can by mini-kegs here in the UK - -- Graham Cunningham Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 18:50:18 -0500 From: mike at datasync.com (Mike White) Subject: My clean out the closet recipie Here's the final results of my latest batch. Actually it turned out very good. Nice and dark but no heavy burnt taste. It probably could have used a little more hops, or maybe fresher hops. The alcohol content is rather low and the flavor is excellent, good head too. This beer takes on a decidedly bitter taste when overchilled. Best consumed cool but not cold. For about 2 gallons (21 twelve ounce bottles): 1/4 lb. Munton's Crushed Crystal 2-row Malt 1/4 lb. Roast Barley Crushed 1/2 oz. Willamette Hops Pellets (boiling) 1/2 oz. Northern Brewer Hops Pelletts (finishing) 2 lbs. Laaglander Dark Dried Malt Extract 1 packet Canadian Ale yeast this came with an Ironmaster Canadian Ale Kit 1 packet Irist Stout yeast this came with a Mountmellick Irish Stout Kit 1/2 to 3/4 cup of corn sugar What I did: Placed Munton's & Roast Barley in grain bag and put in pot with 2 1/2 gallons of cold water. Brought water to a boil. Removed grain bag as soon as water started boiling. Added Willamette Hops and Laaglander DME. Boiled for 1 hour. Added Northern Brewer hops and boiled 5 more minutes. Cooled and added to fermenter. Pitched Canadian Ale yeast, oops forgot to rehydrate it first. Waited 3 days, no activity, yeast must have been too old. Repitched with rehydrated Irish Stout yeast which showed good activity within 8 hours. Fermented until done. Bottled with 1/2 cup corn sugar. Aged 2 weeks. O.G. - 1.034 F.G. - 1.019 \\\|/// \\ - - // ( at at ) \ (_) / \ o / +----------------------oOOo-----oOOo----------------+ | Mike White mike at datasync.com | | Thought for the day: | | Stick \'stik\ n. 1: A boomerang that doesn't work | +---------------------+--------Oooo-----------------+ oooO ( ) ( ) ) / \ ( (_/ \_) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 23:47:33 -0400 From: TBrouns at aol.com Subject: Long slow fermentation I haven't seen this addressed before, although I've seen variants in the books... I started a wheat beer--dunkelweizen, actually, using an Irek's 6.6# can and another # of DME--on 29 March, using a 10g packet of GlenBrew "secret" brewer's yeast. Never tried this type before but it's a typical dried yeast. Within 3 hours, fermentation was already underway! Well, on 1 or 2 April, I transferred it to a secondary, and I had to leave for a few weeks but I was sure I'd have to bottle as soon as I got back as most beers I have brewed have taken no more than 12 days total. On the 18th of April I returned from my trip and the beer was still kicking! I would say poor aeration or inferior yeast; however, I have to say the fermentation, though long, has been far from sluggish. It was very active in the beginning, and now it is pretty slow but steady, and here we are on the 22nd of April. The SG is at about 1.008 now, and I know that's usually sufficient to bottle, but I'm afraid to bottle when it's still bubbling this steadily (about once a minute, realizing that all airlocks are probably different) for fear of a mess in about a week when the pressure has built up. Has anyone else had this experience with this yeast or with a wheat? Any Ideas? TIA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 23:57:48 EDT From: "Stephen Palmer" <uscgsynd at ibmmail.com> Subject: Kegs - Ball vs. Pin Lock I know this was beaten to death a while back, but I don't have access to the archives, and am about to invest in a kegging system. The store I am going to buy from has both, with only a $1 price differance. Which should I get? Ball Lock, or Pin Lock? Does someone have a pro/con type summary of what was discussed? E-Mail is fine. Thanks in advance, Stephen L. Palmer uscgsynd at ibmmail.com - Columbia Gulf, Houston TX elrond at helix.xiii.com - Home Return to table of contents