HOMEBREW Digest #2037 Wed 15 May 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  First Wort Hopping (Fred Brende)
  Infected brews... ("Bessette, Bob")
  Gambrinus Malt (Steve Alexander)
  DME versus LME/Wyeast #3056/thermostats and SCRs/Iodophor storage (Algis R Korzonas)
  Rye from Wrong (Jeff Handley & Gene Almquist)
  FWH Data Point, Boil Over (Neal Christensen)
  Extract Brewing & Water Treatment (KennyEddy)
  Re: Grain Mill Adjustability (Chris Strickland)
  Thanks: Denver Info (TArnott)
  Stuck Sparge (Jack Schmidling)
  Brewing with Rye (George De Piro)
  BUZZ Boneyard Brewoff - July 20, 1996 (Joe Formanek)
   ("Dave Higdon")
  Arfs Back, Tanned, Rested and Ready! (Jim Busch)
  Brewer's Workshop Software (Dean Larson)
  Malt Mills (somebody stop me!) (Russell Mast)
  Jack's back (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Jack's WARNING!/Slugbrew ;^)/TSP/starters/Corona mills/Ale temps (Algis R Korzonas)
  Temp Controller (Robin S. Broyles)
  Finings in repitched yeast (Steve Waddell)
  notes on a homemade mill. (WESLEY)
  Job Posting (David Ellis)
  Grain Mills, Skewed Brains (Todd Mansfield)
  A simple recipe if you please. (STANSBERRYJ)
  Job Posting (David Ellis)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 17:00:22 -0400 (EDT) From: fbrende at cris.com (Fred Brende) Subject: First Wort Hopping I was looking through some old posts on first wort hopping, in particular those posted by Jim Dipalma and John Palmer. I understand the concept, but there is one thing that confuses me: if the hops are placed in the kettle during the sparge, which is prior to the boiling, how come the aroma is not boiled off during the boil (like bittering hops) or scrubbed off during fermentation (which is why you dry hop in the secondary). TIA Freddy Beer is an improvement on water itself. -Grant Johnson Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 May 96 14:23:00 PDT From: "Bessette, Bob" <bob.bessette at lamrc.com> Subject: Infected brews... Fellow Brewers, I have had 3 infected brews in a row and never had a problem with 20 previous batches. The symptoms are small stringy white stuff on the top of the bottle, gushing of the brew after opened, and a distinct off-flavor in the brew. I am hoping that I have narrowed down what the problem is. I had purchased 2 Hop-Tech bags of E.Kent Goldings hop flowers. I have used these only for dry hopping. Upon opening the first bag they suggest to put the hops into mason jars and put them in the freezer. I did not have a problem with the first couple of batches but I think after the length of time of being in the freezer some bacteria got into the hops. The reason I think that the problem is due to the dry hopping is because the beer smells excellent after the primary fermentation. Toward the end of the secondary fermentation with dry hopping I start to see this whitish material on top of the brew. Then this is perpetuated into the bottle or keg. I just brewed on Saturday and I am going to leave out the dry hopping and see what happens. If this appears to be the problem I will probably go back to using pellets. Does anyone else have a similar experience with these symptoms. The beer itself is very clear but this stringy white stuff is at the top of the bottle. It is very depressing to have this happen after every other beer I have made has tasted outstanding to me, especially since the move to all-grain. I would love to hear the collective wisdom on this one. Please email me directly at bob.bessette at lamrc.com and I will keep you updated on my experiment with leaving out the dry hopping. Cheers, Bob Bessette Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 17:35:30 -0400 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: Gambrinus Malt I received several replies to my query about malts from the Canadian maltster Gambrinus. All respondents were very happy with the Honey (Brumalt) describing it as malty and sweet. The Munich drew neutral (similar to other Munich malts) to quite positive reviews. Sources - no affiliation, I'm NOT EVEN a customer of these sources! Some of this info is second hand from customer/respondents so I make no claims as to accuracy (and apologies to the vendors if I mis-identiy you). Sources are identified from info in all responses, in order of first occurrance. My personal approach is to attempt to get HB supplies from sources I have experience with, but if you, like me, can't find a Gambrinus malt source you may want to evaluate these ... (is that enough of a disclaimer?) Culver City Home Brewing Supply Co. (Fred Waltman waltman at netcom.com) carries: Pale, Wheat, Honey, Munich 90 and Munich 100 does not yet have the ESB Malt http://www.homebrew.inter.net 800-392-7394 or 310-397-3453. HopTech in Pleasanton, CA http://www.hoptech.com 1-800-DRY-HOPS Brewers Resource in Camarillo, CA carries Honey malt, possibly others ?? Jim's Homebrew (Spokane,WA) carries honey malt, possibly no other Gambrinus malts. Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 May 96 15:18:22 CDT From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) Subject: DME versus LME/Wyeast #3056/thermostats and SCRs/Iodophor storage JB writes: >I have a question for the group....I notice that most extract recipes call >for both Dry Malt Extract(DME) and Liquid Malt Extract (LME). I buy LME >from the bulk drums at my homebrew supply store, meaning I weigh out the >amount of syrup I need for a recipe rather than buying 3.3 lb cans. I >don't usually add DME because I buy the amount of extract I need in liquid >form. My question is, am I missing some qualities of DME by only using >LME? I am wondering if DME is 'better' to use for some reason, of if I >should at least include a pound or two in each batch, or if it just >doesn't matter. When I do brew extract batches (still about 25% of my batches are extract and 75% all-grain) I do use DME (dried malt extract, a.k.a. Spray Malt). Although the lower moisture content of DME means that it will age and darken slower than LME (liquid malt extract, a.k.a. malt extract syrup), as long as both are fresh, it should not make much of a difference which you use. Note that since most LMEs are 80% solids and most DMEs are 97% solids, you need about 22% more liquid extract when substituting for dry. Conversely, if you use dry, you only need about 82% as much when substituting for liquid. Why do I use both DME and syrup? Because it is much easier to store a partially used package of DME. If I need 7.2 pounds of syrup, I will use two 3.3 pound cans and 1/2 pound of DME (0.6 pounds times 0.82). If you can buy 7.2 pounds of syrup or brew so often that you can handle a half-used can or bag of syrup for a week in the fridge, then use all syrup! There was a post which suggested that there is some kind of association with "paler color and not as strong a taste" and LME. I disagree. In terms of strength of flavour, there is no more variation between DME and LME as there is between various manufacturers extracts (i.e. not much). When it comes to lightness of colour, Extra Pale DME makes some of the palest extract beers. Old LME is notorious for making dark beers even if you do use something labeled "gold" or "pale." *** Steve writes (quoting Patrick's FAQ): >>Wyeast 3056 Bavarian Weissen Yeast >> A 50/50 blend of S. cerevisiae and delbrueckii to produce a south German >> style wheat beer... >With the delbrueckii >component it's pretty clear that this is intended for Berliner weisse. You are confusing S. delbrueckii with L. delbrueckii. The former is a yeast and the latter a lactic bacteria. They were both isolated by Mr. Delbrueck (Hans?), which is why they bear his name. Wyeast #3056 is NOT a good yeast for a Berliner Weissbier. You need to use a clean ale yeast like Wyeast #1007 or #1056 along with a lactic acid bacteria such as Lactobacillus delbrueckii. *** Jamie writes: >If you want to use the normal household thermostat that runs on 24VDC, you >can get a solid state control relay (SCR) It's basically a solid state switch <snip> >run about $15-30. That and a transformer to power the 24VDC and you are >all set. Wouldn't a electomechanical relay be far less expensive than $15-30? Just make sure to put it outside of your fridge so that condensation doesn't ruin it. *** C.D. writes: >One gallon *glass* jugs should be fine as long as you >remember to cap them- air renders the Iodophor solution ineffective. If you >use a rubber stopper for capping, the vapors from the solution will corrode >the bottom of the stopper. It won't ruin it- it'll just look like crap. >Don't use a plastic jug for long term storage- in a capped polyethlene jug, >mine lost much of it's color in a week. It's not air that ruins Iodophor, per se... it's the iodine in the Iodophor that evaporates. I store it in a sealed Corny keg and in a sealed, gasketted-lid HDPE 7-gallon bucket. I have to remember to shake them a little before opening since the iodine seems to condense on the "ceiling" of the vessels and shaking before opening redissolves it. It lasts basically forever in the Corny and certainly a month or more in the HDPE. It does stain the HDPE, but I have designated this bucket just for Iodophor and so I don't worry about the orange staining. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at pubs.att.com Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:48:01 -0700 From: homebrew at infomagic.com (Jeff Handley & Gene Almquist) Subject: Rye from Wrong I recently brewed this very tasty Rye Beer which I think beats the heck out of Red Hook's Rye beer. The recipe follows single infusion mashing techniques used in a 10 gallon Gott Cooler. The results were a somewhat cloudy light & hoppy summer brew that I really reccomend to anyone who wants a little Rye in their lives. Recipe: 8# Belgian Pale Malt 4# Rye Malt (Not flaked) 2oz Cascade leaf 60min. Hallertauer leaf 1oz. 30 min. Hallertauer leaf 1oz. 2 min. 1TBSP irish moss last 10 min. Wyeast #1056 American Ale (Starter Reccomended) O.G. 1.042 F.G. 1.007 Let me know if you like it. Jeff ******************************************** * Jeff Handley***outpost@ homebrewers.com * * Homebrewers Outpost-Flagstaff, Arizona * * http://www.homebrewers.com * * * * Homer: "Thanks for coming to my party. * * Wow, you brought a whole beer keg!" * * Barney: "Yeah. Where can I fill it up?" * ******************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 17:15:00 -0600 (MDT) From: nealc at selway.umt.edu (Neal Christensen) Subject: FWH Data Point, Boil Over Howdy, I just tried my first batch of first wort hopped pilsner. I do think that the procedure resulted in a nice hop FLAVOR profile (not bitterness, but hop flavor). And, as I understand, the usual procedure of hopping 5 minutes before the end of the boil is to enhance hop flavor and aroma. Well I was having a problem with understanding how the volatile aroma hop oils could survive a FWH schedule. IMHO, my pilsner has an improved hop flavor profile, but lacks the aroma I was looking for. I used noble hop plugs in the FWH and did not add any hops at the end. I'm now thinking that I will use both FWH and a final 5-minute hop on my next pilsner. Hopefully this will provide both a great hop flavor and aroma profile. Any thoughts on this? For the most part, I have solved the boil-over problem on my system. I use a converted 1/2 brl boiling pot. The trick is to vent the steam. I use the cut off top of my mash tun keg as a lid for my boiling pot (the lid needs to be larger diameter than the opening in the boiling pot). I removed the valve from the lid - leaving a domed lid with an opening in the middle. To the top of the opening I attached a dryer vent hose and connected the other end to an exhaust fan. Turn the fan on and crank the flame! Removing the steam allows for a rolling boil with no build-up of foam to cause a boil-over. I got this idea from a past Brewing Techniques (last year I think) and I'm real happy with the results. Kettle venting is a common procedure in commercial breweries. Neal in Missoula, MT Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 19:49:36 -0400 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Extract Brewing & Water Treatment Not long ago Gregory King sent me a copy of this letter he received in response to his question about water treatment in the manufacture of malt extract: ============================== Dear Mr King Thank you for your letter of the 18th April 1996 regarding ion concentrations. Firstly, the water we use for the manufacture of malt extract is primarily recovered condensate from malt extract concentration by evaporation. Any deficiency is made up using natural water which we extract from deep bore holes on our site at Stowmarket. We are sited in a particularly hard water area but this make up water only constitutes a small part of the water used in manufacture. I can, however, provide you with typical analyses of the cations present in our malt extracts:- Calcium 250 mgs/litre Magnesium 550 mgs/litre Sodium 400 mgs/litre Potassium 6000 mgs/litre We do not analyse for any anions, nor do we routinely analyse our bore hole water. However, most of the above originate from the barley. The wort pH prior to concentration is between 5.4 and 5.8. Yours sincerely G B Ellam Group Chief Chemist Muntons p.l.c. Cedars Maltings Stowmarket Suffolk IP14 2AG ============================== In other words, they basically use "distilled" water! An interesting result is the pre-concentration pH -- 5.4 to 5.8 -- which is higher than the ~5.0 to 5.4 range we typically shoot for. The lack of additional calcium might be preventing further acidification (although there is some leftover!?); sources I have seen (Pappazzian? I forget which) indicate that adding distilled water to plain pale grain results in pH's in the "high-five's". Perhaps the small amount of hard makeup water they use has sufficient calcium to bring them into a suitable range. As far as the "untested cations" go, I'm just guessing here but I'd say the malt would not contain any appreciable SO4- or Cl- anyway; so the above analysis should be complete as far as ions relevent to brewing go. Anyone care to elaborate? Since they start with essentially "ion-free" water, the ions they are listing above, as they state, come from the grain, and would therefore be present in those ballpark quantities in all our worts made with ion-free water, whether extract or all-grain. Any ion concentrations we're adding with salt treaments would end up *in addition* to these, although it's still the original water's ionic makeup we want to watch. The exception would be Ca since some is consumed during the mash. Note that they give concentrations *per litre of extract*; assuming dilution in water to typical wort gravities these reduce to around 30 ppm Ca, 40 ppm Mg, and 30 ppm Na, in very round figures (I'm estimating pounds-to-litres conversion). What does this mean for extract brewers and water treatment? Obviously not all the calcium available (in the malt itself) is being used, although the pH is still a bit high. Perhaps another 10 ppm or so (SWAG) would drop it to the "ideal range". Other ions are not of significant consequence during the mash, so I'd be inclined to try to duplicate those concentrations closely. The exception would be carbonates, which for extract brewing we would ideally want to totally eliminate anyway; try to minimize CO3 in the original water. Calcium contributes to the beer character in the boil (hop extraction & break action) as well as in the mash, but I'd guess its contribution is subtle. If this is the case, then, one could argue that you could take a given profile and not worry too much about the calcium; let its level be set as a consequence of other ion adjustments instead of targeting a particular number. Since it appears that perhaps only a small amount of additional calcium would properly acidify the extract mash, one could speculate that just using the approximate Ca concentrations in a target profile would be adequate, but far less than that may be suitable as well since we're now only worried about secondary effects. This is good news since a common source of Ca is gypsum, which carries sulphate with it. Sulphate can harshen bitterness if used in excess. If we're having trouble establishing a profile due to high sulphate, cutting back on gypsum would be appropriate for extract brewers since the calcium is not as important. Epsom salt, which also contributes sulphate, is typically used in *small* quantities to add magnesium, so it shouldn't be as difficult to deal with as far as managing sulphate. As far as other manufacturers are concerned, it makes sense that they would recycle much of their water; if so, most extracts should have similar ionic content regardless of manufacturer. Bottom line: If all this speculation is true, then water treatment for extract brewers should be no different than that for grain brewers, with the possible exception that using much lower levels of calcium than proposed in a target profile would not have significant effect. Also, carbonate should be avoided as well, due to its secondary effects on color and bitterness. Ken Schwartz KennyEddy at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 19:56:19 -0400 From: Chris Strickland <cstrick at iu.net> Subject: Re: Grain Mill Adjustability >Todd Mansfield wrote in HBD 2033: >> People who say adjustability isn't important tend to own mills with >> fixed roller clearances. > >Interesting assertion. > >Well, I own a mill (JSP MaltMill model P) with fixed roller clearances. >I also believe adjustability in a two roller mill is not important. >And there *is* a causal relationship between these two statements. > > <snip><snip> >Several years ago when I bought my first mill (an *adjustable* >MaltMill) I, like Mr. Mansfield, thought that adjustability was >important. <snip><snip> >The result? No difference. The consistent lautering to which I was >accustomed remained unchanged. The very high extraction efficiency I >get remained unchanged. > Well, I have an adjustable JSP MaltMill, and I just leave where the mark is on the green line. I only thought adjustability was important when using corn, wheat or rice. So I guess even though I have an adjustable mill, I don't think it's important for grain. - -------------- Chris Strickland cstrick at iu.net http://www.teg.saic.com/mote/people.htm (Currently Under Construction) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 06:22:42 -0400 From: TArnott at aol.com Subject: Thanks: Denver Info Thanks to everyone who respnded to my query for information on the Denver area beer scene. No I only hope I can remember to go to the wedding when I get out there ;-> ted Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 08:21:38 -0500 (CDT) From: Jack Schmidling <arf at maxx.mc.net> Subject: Stuck Sparge >From: blacksab at siu.edu >The only thing that seemed to get any of the three batches unstuck was to thin the mash with a large infusion of water which served to thin the mash. Next time I make this recipe, I'm going to try infusing a large quantity of water at mashout.... It seems a lot simpler just to start with more mash water, i.e. a thinner mash. >...and although Jack suggests allowing the mash to settle for 30-min. before sparging, I have found that a 15-min. mashout is plenty adequate. I agree and that is about how long I wait but when advising others, the extra margin guarantees sucess. > BTW, Jack, blowing on the outfeed did noting--that was the first thing I tried! Thinning the mash was the only thing that seemed to work. Actually, if I listened to my own words (never a stuck sparge) I would have realized that we were talking about two different applications. Blowing helps when hops get stuck draining the boiler but would probably only aggrivate problems while lautering. >On a related note, on a HBD search of Irish Moss, I found a posting from Jack saying that the only time he'd ever experienced a stuck EM was when he used Irish Moss. I also use an EM in my boiling kettle, and this has never happened to me (6 batches), but I use whole hops and allow the trub to settle for 15-min. before pumping the wort thru my CF wort-chiller. I suspect the combination of a pump AND the filter-bed formed by the hops keep the EM from clogging for me. Good point. I don't think I was into the pump mode when I had the problem and never tried it again. *********************** Visit our Web page for product flyers and applications information. http://dezines.com/ at your.service/jsp/ js Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 08:31:23 -0700 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Subject: Brewing with Rye I just wanted to mention my rye brewing experience. I brewed a beer with ~60% malted rye. The final product was great (it's done very well in competitions), but I doubt that I could duplicate it. I used a single decoction mash, with a protein rest and low saccharification temp. In the beginning, everything seemed fine, but as saccharification proceeded the mash began to resemble very goopy oatmeal. By the time I was ready to sparge, it was effectively impermeable to the sparge water! There's no hyperbole there, I mean it was STUCK. My solution was to use a spatula to scrape and stir the grain-goop (to call it a grain bed would be a gross misrepresentation of its appearance) while running the sparge water through. I collected the extremely draff laden run-off in my boiler. I decided that to boil it with all the husk particles would make for an unpalatably astringent beer, so I stuck it in the refrigerator to allow the draff to settle out. Well, I got distracted by other stuff and it sat in there for 4 days, by which time it had soured nicely. I was going to chuck it, but decided,"Oh, what the hell. The hard part is done. Finish it." So I siphoned the wort off the settled draff and boiled, etc. Damned if the stuff wasn't good! The sourness was (miraculously) not overwhelming. In fact, it gave the beer a complexity that many people seem to love. Admittedly, I never intended it to taste anything like the way it came out, but you've got to take what you can get! If anybody still wants to try this, here's my recipe: 2.7 kg malted rye, 0.9 kg Ireks Pils, 0.9 kg Ireks Munich, 0.2 kg 20L crystal. (1 kg=2.2 pounds, and I am American, I just like Metrics) Hallertauer pellets, 3.7% AA, 12.25g for 20 min., 12.25g for 7 min. OG=1.051, FG=1.015. Yeast=Wyeast 3068. Primed with 40 ounces of saved wort. The mash and souring specifics are in the above text. One last note: a friend made a 100% Rye beer using rice hulls to set up the grain bed. They didn't really help him much. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 12:03:32 +0800 From: jformane at students.uiuc.edu (Joe Formanek) Subject: BUZZ Boneyard Brewoff - July 20, 1996 Greetings! This is the official announcement for the Second Annual BUZZ Boneyard Brewoff, to be held July 20, 1996 at Joe's Brewery, Champaign, IL. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. Thanks! Joe The Boneyard Union of Zymurgical Zealots Second Annual Boneyard Brew-Off This is the official announcement of the second homebrew competition of the Boneyard Union of Zymurgical Zealots of Champaign, Illinois. The competition, to be held on July 20 1996, will be a BJCP sanctioned competition with all the standard AHA categories (except for cider and sake). In our standard advertising packet is a list of rules, an entry form, bottle forms and a judge registration form. We need entries, judges and stewards! The competition will be held at Boneyard Brew-Off c/o Joe's Brewery 706 S. Fifth St. Champaign IL, 61820. The judging will commence at 9:00am. We will need two unmarked 10 to 16 oz. brown or green bottles, with bottle identification forms attached to each bottle with a rubber band, a completed entry form and $5 sent to Joe's brewery for each entry. We would appreciate entries as soon as possible after July 6, but we will accept walk-on entries as long as they are accompanied by the completed paperwork. Four or more entries by the same brewer qualify for our special, low, low rate of $4 per entry. As in our last competition, the highlight will be our special category: The No One Gets Out Alive High Gravity Brew-Off. In this category we will judge any beer with a gravity over 1.070 purely on the basis of drinkability and octane. We will allow any high gravity style, but if you wish the beer to also be judged in another category, you must separately enter it in that category. No fortification of the beer is allowed. The winners in this category will not be eligible for best of show. Those who contribute their judging expertise will reap many rewards. This includes a beer sodden tour of Joe's Brewery, a bed for the night (make a note on the judge form if you need a place to stay) and lunch on Saturday. For those who wish to come on Friday, we plan to have a party on Friday night featuring the efforts of our local brewers. For additional information, feel free to get in contact with our illustrious leader, Joe Formanek, at 512 Dogwood Champaign IL, 61801 jformane at students.uiuc.edu (217) 351-7858 ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Joseph A. Formanek President, Boneyard Union of 580 Bevier Hall Zymurgical Zealots (BUZZ) U of Ill--Urbana/Champaign 2nd annual Boneyard Brewoff! (217) 244-2879 July 20, 1996 at Joe's Brewery! Grad student, Professional and Home Brewer, BUZZ president.... What else can I get myself into????? \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 13:17:34 EST From: "Dave Higdon" <DAVEH at qesrv1.bwi.wec.com> Subject: help Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 14:11:58 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Arfs Back, Tanned, Rested and Ready! Im certain I should avoid getting into a stimulating pissing match with the king of momisms but I will attempt to elucidate on some of Arfs assertions. Briefly I hope. Jack Schmidling <arf at maxx.mc.net> wrote: <Is this just a "duh" or are you seriously trying to compare a 6" long, <3/8" diameter tubular screen with a who knows how large, 1 BBL <false bottom? i.e. $23 vs how much $300 maybe? $50 pref sheet. Rather cost effective for my system. <What do you mean by an adjunct? Arf! Im suprised at you. FYI: "Adjuncts are defined as non-malt carbohydrate materials of suitable composition and properities which beneficially complement or supplement the principal brewing material which is barley malt". The Practical Brewer, page 40. <This may take only a few seconds but <has nothing to do with drawing off wort while stirring the mash. <If you claim that your wort will run clear while stirring the mash, I <certainly will not argue with you (nor would I believe you) but letting No, Ive never suggested this approach. I recommend cutting the bed or floating the mash. Now that I realize the manufacturer of the EM suggests to wait 30 minutes prior to vorlauf, I will feel secure in my 10-15 minute vorlaufs with zero rest time prior to runoff. And I thought I was missing something. <Not sure what all that means Arf, keep reading the digest and it will become very clear someday. ;-} Jim Busch copywrong Arfism of the week, day 122, year 1996 AD, Universe, Galaxy, Solar System, Earth, North America. (scary, eh?) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 11:25:05 -0700 From: Dean Larson <larson at chaos.cps.gonzaga.edu> Subject: Brewer's Workshop Software I recently downloaded the freebie version of Brewer's Workshop for Windows off the net and am thinking of putting down the $35 to get the registered version. I'd appreciate any comments on this package (any bugs, general annoyances, etc.) that anyone might offer. How does it compare to other packages? Are there other packages out there that people particularly like or dislike? Any comments appreciated. Private e-mail welcome. "If you see a beer, do it a favor and drink it."---M. Jackson Dean Larson larson at cps.gonzaga.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 14:16:37 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Malt Mills (somebody stop me!) Jake and I have an adjustable JSP MaltMill, which we bought from Al Korzonas (before he stopped selling them, I guess). Works great. Wouldn't mind a bigger hopper, though. Also - I wouldn't recommend getting an adjustable one. More PITA than it's worth, IMO. (Jake may disagree.) I've never gotten anything but a poor crush from a Corona. Maybe I didn't have it adjusted right, but I still think they suck. (Easier than a rolling pin, though.) My girlfriend used to drive a Toyota Corona. Great car. I wouldn't try to crush grain with it, though. (Especially not after it died.) Jack, I think you take criticisms of your product too personally. It makes you look goofy, and it encourages you to use way too much bandwidth, which is inconsiderate to everyone else who have such lovely posts they want to get through. And it encourages me to act like an old nag, and nobody likes that. (Except Bob and Kevin, but that's their problem.) -Russell Mast copyright 1996 Uwe Nettelbeck Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 14:17:45 -0500 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: Jack's back Jack tells us: > WARNING to all! I now have local access to the internet and > at 5 cents for unlimited time, I will probably again become a > plague on the Mommies. I actually download the Digest now > instead of scanning for relevant articles. Even Wall Street Barons > need to watch our pennies. Well, I say joy and jubilation, for the HBD has been sort of boring lately, and this may be just what is needed to liven things up. It's been so dull that some members have gone on and on with aimless posts about plaid shirts, etc. I have been a HBD cruiser for about a year now and have enjoyed and benefitted greatly from the various articles. I have missed Jack's posts and I am glad to see he is back on a more regular basis. ****** Flamers standby, Ignition MECO (Main Engine Cut On)... I know that Jack just seems to get the goat of some of the posters and I have heard some people express dismay about all of this as a waste of resources. Not at all I say -- for here is a lesson in personality and manners (in real time, almost) for everyone to see and evaluate. My wife once asked me, Ron, how do you know the information you get on the computer is accurate or true if anyone can just say whatever they want? And I told her that you just sort of get a feel for it. True information and facts hold up on their own, while dribble, hogwash, and bogeys have a way of revealing themselves. I see Jack's products proudly on display at the local homebrew shop. I use Jack's EasyMasher (actually I made it from his plans) in my masher and it is great. Jack's MaltMill is probably used by some of the best homebrewers. (Ouch, that buckshot almost got me). I think Jack has presented the homebrew universe with a great maltmill, a great easy mashing/sparging device, and a lot of good information here on the HBD. What can the goats claim they have done? MECO (Main Engines Cut Off) Flamers fuel up for launch. ****** Ron Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 14:07:54 CDT From: korz at pubs.ih.att.com (Algis R Korzonas) Subject: Jack's WARNING!/Slugbrew ;^)/TSP/starters/Corona mills/Ale temps Jack writes: >WARNING to all! I now have local access to the internet and >at 5 cents for unlimited time, I will probably again become a >plague on the Mommies. I recommend you first let satisfied customers point out errors in your critics' assertions. Unsolicited, unbiased testimonials are worth a hundred of your posts and are much less taxing on the HBD. As I said in my post which apparently did not get to you in time, advertisements are really bad form in the HBD. *** Steven writes: > Being cheap, lazy, and not very smart, I have sought to develop a >suitable method for brewing. Below is my low-tech, low-work ale brewing >method, provided to elicit comments in the hope of improving it, and also >to provide information that someone may find useful: >7. Place a clear, 16" square piece of thin plexiglass on top of the >bucket. Once or twice a day after fermentation starts, use a large, >holey, scum-skimming spoon to skim off the, ah, scum that collects on top. >Prior to use, rinse the spoon with hot tap water; A/R brewers may soak in >iodophor. Even if a brewer is not anal retentive, sanitizing anything that comes in contact with the wort is highly recommended. >9. Bottle. I regard the custom of sanitizing bottles as quaint, hard, >useless, and not for me-- I gave it up two years ago. Now, I clean my >bottles by rinsing them with tap water, and letting them drip dry on a >bottle tree. You may have guessed this by now, but I don't sanitize or >boil my bottle caps. I have used the above method of bottling for over >1,500 bottles, and have experienced no problems with contamination. Do >try this at home. I agree... don't try this at home. That you have experienced no problems with contamination either means that: 1. you have been blessed by God and could brew prize-winning beer from spent laundry water, 2. you drank the beer before the contamination became obvious, or 3. you are not very sensitive to acidity and phenolic flavours/aromas and you did not notice their presence. > a. It's okay to bottle straight out of the primary with ales. There >may be a bit more sediment in each bottle, but you probably won't >notice much degradation in clarity, head retention, or flavor. My ales don't >live long after bottling - 6 or 8 weeks is tops - so whatever ill effects >my techniques may cause don't have time to assert themselves. Bingo! Real ale brewers are not very anal retentive when it comes to sanitation, but since their casks should be empty within three weeks of brewing, infections don't have time to rise above human threshold levels. We all brew infected beer -- we simply cannot make sterile wort in our homes. The key is to keep the infections under control so that they don't become noticeable. Sanitizing the spoon, bottles, racking tube and bottlecaps would be my suggested improvements, since you asked. *** Lenny writes: >Subject: How do I use TSP for sanitizing? You don't. It's not a sanitizer -- if you can get it (many communities have outlawed phosphate-based cleaners) it's a good cleaner, but does not sanitize. You might be able to get chlorinated TSP which would do some sanitizing. If you can find out what the concentration of the chlorine is in the solution, you can mix it to a level of 200 ppm of free chlorine and use a 15 minute contact time. I doubt that you could find the data you need to figure out how much CTSP will give you 200ppm, though. *** Dave writes: >I have had recent problems with my yeast producing in my fermenter. >It sometimes takes up to 3.5 days to get into rapid fermentation. >Does anyone know the right mesurements of extract, water , and other >ingredients that I will need to get a starter culture going. I recommend 4 ounce of dried malt extract 32 fluid ounces of water, boiled for 10 minutes, chilled to room temperature and aerated well. If you use all-malt DME you won't need nutrients and personally, I don't use hops in my starters. *** Bill writes: >The poorly thought of Corona Mill comes close to the ideal when >properly set. 78% of the grist passes through a window screen of >about .039" leaving the hulls whole. This is what crushing the malt is >about, leaving the hulls whole while everything else should fit through a >hole that is less then a 1/16". The price of a Corona Mill is about $40 >bucks and does as good a job as all the roller mills that are on the >homebrew market. My question is why would anyone want a roller >mill that doesn't get any higher extract from the grain, nor does it make >any better beer ( Three of the top competition brewers in New England >use a Corona Mill). Why pay the additional money? I would have to see it to believe it. I've seen malt crushed with many different Coronas and the bottom line is that either the husks are damaged siginificantly or there are many uncrushed kernels. The Corona works by rubbing one ridged plate against another plate and this, by itself, is inherently problematic when trying to retain the integrity of the husks. I know a commercial brewer that uses a motorized Corona. His pale beers tend to have a grainy character which I don't like. On the other hand, his dark beers are outstanding, IMO. I'm just pointing this out because powdered husks don't present as big a problem when the pH is low (as you would get in dark beers). You can brew prize-winning beer with a Corona, but I personally feel that either you must sacrifice yield (crush coarsely) or make VERY sure your pH is right on. *** Bob writes: >cooling. Well, it seems a weather front came through the following day >and dropped the house temperature to the upper 60s, and the fermentor >temperature fell to 65-68F. Since I'm using an ale yeast, is this >harmful to the end quality. Is there a minimum temperature concern >with ale yeasts. I have not run across anything lately. The >fermentation rate looks steady, and I'll transfer to the secondary to >dry hop later today. Fermentation gives off heat itself, as we know, and the thermal intertia of 5 gallons of wort and another three pounds of glass is pretty high so that a 10 degree drop in a day should not be a problem for most yeasts. If the beer had dropped clear the next day and the FG read only 50% or 60% of the OG, then I would say warm the fermenter and pitch more yeast, but since it kept fermenting, I would say it's probably just fine. 65-68F is a fine (ideal, some would say) temperature range for ales. If you usually ferment much warmer, you may be getting a lot of higher alcohols in your beer, which for stronger beers could take a long time to mellow. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at pubs.att.com Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 15:38:02 -0700 From: rsbroyl at sandia.gov (Robin S. Broyles) Subject: Temp Controller Hi All, For those that are interested, here is an economical freezer temp controller I slapped together for about $40 US in less than 30 minutes time. It has heating and cooling outputs. for a 128K JPEG file point browser to: http://rbpmac.sandia.gov/ServerFolder/TempControl.JPG All standard disclaimers apply. __ __ __/\_\ -------------------+---------------------------- /_/\__ __/\_\/_/ Robin S. Broyles | Sandia National Labs \_\/_/\__ /\_\/_/\_\ (505) 845-7649 | Dept. 9342, MS-1106 /_/\_\/_/\ \/_/\_\/_/ Internet Address: | PO Box 5800 \_\/_/\_\/ \/_/\_\ rsbroyl at sandia.gov| Albuquerque, NM 87185-1106 /_/\_\/ \/_/ -------------------+---------------------------- \_\/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 96 18:13 EDT From: waddell at iglou.com (Steve Waddell) Subject: Finings in repitched yeast Question has occured to me about finings in the secondary if you repitch slurry from the secondary. I use polyclar in the secondary (1 to 1.5 Tbsp). Last batch was pitched from slurry of the previous batch's secondary. Seemed more light bodied than previous with that recipe, but I don't yet get good repeatability. Any thoughts? Should I skip repitching if I use polyclar? Other finings? (or should I just skip polyclar if I repitch?) - --------------------------------------------------- Steve Waddell - waddell at iglou.com It is a good thing that we don't get all the government that we pay for! - Will Rogers Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 21:06:35 -0400 (EDT) From: WESLEY at bnlarm.bnl.gov Subject: notes on a homemade mill. It has been interesting to read some of the comments regarding various features of commercial mills and their purported effects on milling quality. I have found in tinkering with my home made mill that playing with the spacing of the rollers does not affect the yield much, but careful setting can dramatically reduce the amount of flour produced. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 20:34:09 +0000 From: David Ellis <pinncomp at onramp.net> Subject: Job Posting We need Web Page Designers. Html, CGL, Pearl, Java. Call 1-800-728-3600 for free information. Return to table of contents
Date: 14 May 96 22:35:30 EDT From: Todd Mansfield <102444.1032 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Grain Mills, Skewed Brains >I wonder if Mr. Mansfield has tried brewing a variety of beers, using >a variety of grains, using just the nominal setting on his mill? All of the 2-row malts I crush (~8 different types over the last year) require minimal adjustments from one type to the next. They would all run well on my mill at the same 'nominal' setting. Even so, I sometimes choose a clearance outside the 'nominal' range. Sometimes for learning (i.e. how do runoff and extraction depend on crush?) and other times because of grain. A good example is Cara- Pils Malt (U.S. 6-row). The kernels are small and tough. I prefer a smaller roller clearance for it. (For reasons unrelated to milling, I rarely use this malt anymore.) As always, YMMV. js, Using the term "skewed brains" amounts to an ad hominem attack. It has no place in rational discouse. Todd Mansfield Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 May 1996 21:47:17 -0600 (CST) From: STANSBERRYJ at TEN-NASH.TEN.K12.TN.US Subject: A simple recipe if you please. I am new to the art of homebrewing, but I am very interested in getting started. I have limited access to equipment, but I will try anything. If anyone has an easy recipe for homemade beer, ale, or wine please send it to the address below, or if anyone knows of any web links to recipes, please let me know. Thanks, Newbie in Tennessee Address: stansberryj at ten-nash.ten.k12.tn.us Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 20:58:07 +0000 From: David Ellis <pinncomp at onramp.net> Subject: Job Posting We need Web Page Designers. Html, CGL, Pearl, Java. Call 1-888-728-3600 for free information The previous number was wrong. This is the correct number. Return to table of contents