HOMEBREW Digest #2360 Thu 27 February 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@ brew.oeonline.com
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  1997 Moon Madness Homebrew Competition ("Mark S. Johnston")
  Beer Bread (John C Peterson)
  Tons of Trub ("Greg Porter")
  Splitting CO2 to multiple kegs (scotty)
  Thank You Charlie !! (John Higdon)
  Re: Quit Bitching About the AHA??? (John Sullivan)
  ? about SA Cranberry Lambic ("Mark D. Johnson")
  Hop age (Jay Reeves)
  Carbonation ("David R. Burley")
  Blending Beers (Old-time Porter) (MaltyDog)
  re:Inverted Decoction Mash & denaturing enzymes (Steve Alexander)
  AOB/AHA (Bill Giffin)
  Iodophor,betadine and stainless steel (Ian Smith)
  RE: Fermenting in 10gal Corny? (John Wilkinson)
  Coopers Sparkling (DAVE SAPSIS)
  William's Brewing # (John Goldthwaite)
  pale ale lite? ("Bryan L. Gros")
  AOB/AHA ("Louis K. Bonham")
  B-Brite ("Michael T. Bell")
  Last Call for Homebrew Competition Entries (Randy Reed) (Esbitter)
  how to homebrew Miso (Mutsuo Hoshido)
  Zymurgy mag/bottling yeast/etc. (smurman)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:20:17 -0500 From: "Mark S. Johnston" <msjohnst at talon.net> Subject: 1997 Moon Madness Homebrew Competition Just a reminder that entries for this year's Moon Madness competition are due at the drop-off points by Feb 26. UPDATE: Mail-in entries will be accepted at Brew-Ha-Ha through March 1. We still need judges. The competition will be held on March 8 at the Market House Pub/Pretzel City Brewing Co. in Reading, PA. Email msjohnst at talon.net for additional info. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 19:22:42 EST From: petersonj1 at juno.com (John C Peterson) Subject: Beer Bread About six weeks ago I posted the Beer Bread recipe as well. My wife and I have "created" an excellent recipe using the bottom remains off of the first fermentation. After many trials we have found that you need to add one packet of breed yeast to the beer yeast. We didn't try and culture the yeast to up the cell count though. If you want a copy email me or visit my home(brew) page below. Please pardon the dust though. John C. Peterson Aurora, Colorado petersonj1 at juno.com http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/6841 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 22:26:32 -0500 From: "Greg Porter" <porter at jane.penn.com> Subject: Tons of Trub After cooling the boil and letting the pot settle for a while, I went to siphon into the fermenter but found Tons of Trub! There was only an inch of clear wort, with at least 6" of glop under that. After my choreboy strainer clogged up (after less than 1 quart siphoned) I wound up pouring everything thru a nylon grain bag to strain out what I could. Still wound up with about 3" of trub in the bottom of a 5 gallon carboy after settling overnight. What can cause this? Here are the specifics of the Partial Mash batch: Mashed 2 lbs of Great Western 2-row malt with 1/2 lb crystal and 1/4 lb carapils at 152 degrees for 1hour. After sparging into brewpot, added 6 lbs pale liquid extract and water to make about 4 gallons (in my 5 gal pot, not a full batch boil). I used whole hops, and added re-hydrated Irish moss with 20 in. left in the 1 hour boil. Cooled in a sink full of ice water and let settle for an hour or so. Got tons of trub. I don't understand the books that say to whirlpool the wort and draw off the clear stuff from the sides. There is very little clear stuff, and whirlpooling does nothing. Choreboy strainers or other devices clog up almost immediately. Any Ideas?? maybe water chemistry? Maybe my mash thermometer was off. I have never checked my water composition and dont have anything to check or adjust water pH. My extract only batches did not have this much trub, but still clogged up any attempt at siphoning off and leaving trub and hops behind. Cheers, the Pale Ale Face. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Feb 1997 23:43:05 +0000 From: scotty at enaila.nidlink.com Subject: Splitting CO2 to multiple kegs Hello all. I have recently upgraded to 2 corny kegs in my beer fridge. I would like to know the best way for splitting the CO2 from my regulator to service both kegs. I actually would like 3 outputs. (2 kegs and CPBF). I have seen plastic or brass 'Y' s for the gas line. Is there another option? Can I replace the single output on my regulator with a multiple outlet set up which will operate the lines independantly? I know the entire system will have to be at the same pressure. I would like to be able to shut each line off if needed. Any help is appreciated. Private email is fine. Thank You, Scott Rohlf scotty at nidlink.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 06:46:41 -0500 From: John Higdon <gadfly at bellatlantic.net> Subject: Thank You Charlie !! Dear Charlie, I have recently returned to my interest in homebrewing after a 4 year absence. The changes and improvements that have occurred in equipment, processes, and information during that period has been fantastic. The WEB has made an incredible impact as I can now find information from sites from around the world. It wasn't always this way. I discovered homebrew kits in the early 70's when home wine kits became a fad. I first attempted homebrewing in 1974 when I brewed my first batch in my bedroom in a trash bin with a plastic bag as an air lock. At that time, it was still not legal to make homebrew. After many of the home wine stores in Maryland soon folded up, supplies and information were next to impossible to procure. By necessity, I gave up the hobby. However in 1983, I discovered a candy store near my home that carried a few homebrew supplies. How sweet it was! I purchased a book from them entitled "The New Revised and More Joy of Brewing" by Charlie Papazian. What a weird a book! I was hooked again. Membership in the AHA and Zymurgy soon followed and I attended AHA conferences in D.C. and Philadelphia. So much had evolved since 1974. Why? CHARLIE PAPAZIAN !!! Who? CHARLIE PAPAZIAN !!!! That weird guy who "is not married, occasionally flosses his teeth, loves pies and urges everyone". Why then in 1997 are you under such an attack? My analysis of the "threads" on the HBD tells me that it is nothing more that envy and pettiness. I for one don't care what salary you garner or what trips you take. Every successful entrepreneur who takes the risks and builds up an entity has the right to partake in the fruits of his or her success. As an AHA "member", I see myself as nothing more that a customer. If I see the value in the goods or services provided, I will come back for more. When I take my clothes to the cleaners, I don't get upset if I find out that the owner is making money off of my dirty laundry and taking trips to China. If that bothers me I should go elsewhere. Everyone out there who has a "bitch" should do the same and quit the "shucking and jiving" and move on. I am sure that if they are so upset that they have probably already done so. Let them go and leave us in peace! As for me, I believe that the homebrew industry in the US and around the world is and should remain indebted to the AHA and CHARLIE PAPAZIAN !! Keep up the good work! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 06:12:50 -0800 From: John Sullivan <sullvan at anet-stl.com> Subject: Re: Quit Bitching About the AHA??? Terry White states for the record: "I, for one, am getting sick of the constant complaining about the AHA and Charlie. If you don't feel that you are getting your moneys worth from the AHA then leave, no one is holding a gun to your head. I personally think that the AHA has done a great job. Through their publications and the efforts of Charlie they have promoted the hobby of homebrewing for 20 years now. It is safe to say that if it weren't for the AHA a lot of us would not even be brewing today. So, like I said if you don't like the AHA then don't be a member. Or you could start your own Association, quit your nice comfortable day job and work long hours for little money and when things finally start to come together and you can take a decent salary you can put up with the constant whinning from a group of people that probably have never run anything but their mouth. The common thread seems to be that there are a few people out there who want to have some control over the AHA. I have sat and read people argue for a month about weather it is better to have the water go in the top or the bottom of your wort chiller. How would anything ever get done? Charlie started the AHA and I think he deserves any compensation he gets, have you ever checked out the salary of other heads of non profit organizations, $100,000 is not out of line. So quit your whinning and make some beer." And we should all quit complaining about the phone company when we don't like what they do also. Just go get another carrier right? How about your local grocer? If he doesn't carry what you like or treats you like shit, don't complain. Just find another grocer. Customers are the success of any organization. Any organization that is not truly customer driven is lost and the AHA is lost right now. No one has said that the AHA was not important to homebrewing or does not deserve credit for homebrewing as it is today. Quite the contrary is true and that is why people are upset. The AHA has always relied upon its customers (i.e., members) to provide articles for publication, to run regional competitions, to do unpaid research, etc. The AHA needs to truly listen to its membership (i.e., customers) and become a customer-driven organization. Perhaps the AHA should be required to change its status from non-profit to profit. Then they can make all decisions themselves (along with their stockholders...if anyone would be so foolish) and do as they wish and pay themselves as they wish. This is a partnership whether you like it or not and the AHA will not survive without its customers. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 08:35:22 -0500 (EST) From: "Mark D. Johnson" <mdjohnso at cs.millersv.edu> Subject: ? about SA Cranberry Lambic My girlfriend and I picked up a case of Sam Adams CranLambic (Does Ocean Spray have a version?) last week. It was on clearance for 14.99 a case. My girfriend said that she had it before and liked it. Anyway, we got it home and it had a smell reminiscant(sp) of stewed tomatoes. Is this beer still good and I just don't like it, or is it bad. The best-before date is 3/97. Thanks, i know this isn't brew-related, but it is still beer related. But on a brew-related comment, what exactly is a Lambic, anyway? - --Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 08:18:23 -0600 From: jay at ro.com (Jay Reeves) Subject: Hop age Data for hop AA loss is usually specified as a loss percentage over a six (6) month period stored at 20C (68F). Does anyone have any data as to approximately how much of a reduction in this "loss percentage" occurs when the hops are stored below 0C (32F)? On another note: I saw a shampoo in the store that claims to use "Hops, Almonds, & Apricots". I tried some and it has great HR ;^) -Jay Reeves Huntsville, Alabama Return to table of contents
Date: 25 Feb 97 09:42:00 EST From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Carbonation Brewsters, > mile high. If the carbonation is fine here will it be deminished at sea > level? this carbonation thing has left me slack and agape. Any ideas?? > Robert Waddell in his plight to enter a sea level contest from mile high Colorado was criticized for his flat mead and has confirmed my observations that the carbonation sugar amount suggested by Charlie Papazian (also from mile high CO) is not sufficient for those of us living in less lofty climes. I recently confirmed this again by opening some excellent-tasting commercal micro brewed and bottled beer sent to me from Colorado via UPS. Not exactly flat, but I'm sure it was much better in Colorado. Message is, if you're at sea level or nearly so, six or more ounces ( weight) of sugar/5gal is the right level for priming bottles, ten ounces if you serve it very cold and like fizzy beers. Don't be afraid to experiment on this, depending on the temperature and altitude at which the beer will be consumed. - ----------------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 10:01:07 -0500 (EST) From: MaltyDog at aol.com Subject: Blending Beers (Old-time Porter) It was interesting to hear from Graham Wheeler in follow-up on his previous articles on porter history. He mentions Guiness and Rodenbach as among the few current practioners of blended, aged beers. I was wondering about Greene King's Strong Suffolk (or is it Suffolk Strong, I know they're two different beers) that I have read about in Michael Jackson's books a couple of times. >From what I've heard of about is, it sound very much like a traditional porter. In a related matter, some time ago, after reading about Old Ales in an article in Brewing Techniques a couple of years ago, which discussed the high acidity, as well as high gravity and high hopping of the original Old Ales of the 1800's. I wondered how I could duplicate the flavor of these beers, with all of these elements in a high proportion. I came up with my own blend, which I call the Footenbach: 50% Rodenbach Grand Cru, 50% Big Foot. It's a pretty amazing tasting beer, one I would be proud to make mayself; the maltiness, hoppiness, and sourness all combine to make an beer that tastes entirely different from its component parts. I wrote a brief article about in the newsletter for my local homebrewing club. As I said, it would be fun to make a beer in that style; making the sour beer correctly would be the hardest part. Later, Bill Coleman MaltyDog at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 10:09:27 -0500 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: re:Inverted Decoction Mash & denaturing enzymes Paul Niebergall asks ... >This leads me to my next question. What exactly does "denature" mean? >I have used the term myself many times and have enough understanding >to know that it means the enzymes don't work any more. Enzymes are proteins, long strings of amino acids. These strings have a 'tertiary structure'. That is, in addition to the order of the amino acids in the string, the string itself folds and wraps in certains ways. As a widely recognized example, DNA is a pair of strings of nucleic acids attached to ribose - the teriary structure is the so called 'double helix'. Proteins can also form helical segments, even double and triple strings - also there are more or less straight segments and points at which the protein will fold at specific angles. The forces that hold a protein in it's tertiary conformation are often relatively weak. They protein can be unwrapped or unravelled in many ways. Heat is one, disolving the proteins in high or low pH solutions is another. Once the tertiary structure is destroyed, the protein is said to be denatured. The function of an enzyme as a catalyst in various reactions is critically dependent on its tertiary structure. This is why there is such a high temperature dependence in enzyme catalysed reactions. A few enzymes can reform their tertiary structure and become active again after being inactivated by temperature. Plant alpha and beta amylases cannot. >But, does denature mean destroy, or is it a reversable process? Effectively they are destroyed as enzymes. >However, what degree of destruction (irreversable) or denaturing >occurs to Beta amalyse at lower temperatures (relative to boiling) >when the initial rest temperature is held at 158 F?. Depends to a large extent on the presence of other stabilising factors. In the mash you can count on irreversibly losing much of your BA activity if you mash in at 158F. > Do the little Betas recover if the temperature is >subsequently lowered to their preferred range? Any thoughts >out there would help. No, tho I did see an ancient paper that indicated that BA could be partially reconstituted by a chemical process involving H2S. Presumeably reconstructing some of the SH bonds in the enzyme. Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 11:21:35 -0600 From: Bill Giffin <billgiffin at maine.com> Subject: AOB/AHA Top of the morning to ye all, I thought the post from Charlie P was just wonderful. You just couldn't have a better word to say about yourself even if you where at your own funeral. Speeches like that are usually heard at the wake of a beloved who has died. Yet Charlie P is alive and well. So much for trash and such. The AOB is supposed to be a not for profit organization, yet I honestly feel that under an I.R.S audit they just might have a bit of difficulty. What do I know about things such as these, not much I guess, but as a C.P.A. for 20+ years I sense that they have exceeded the bounds of the law as stated in IRC 501c3. We are headed towards a new century, yet the AOB/AHA is in a time warp, 1960-1970+, VW mini buses, long hair, sandals you all know the folks, many of them your parents who have long since grown up. I think that it is time for the AOB/AHA to grow up too!! Cathy of the AOB stated that they had a Board of Directors, great folks. Cathy forgot to tell us who chose those great folks. Do you think that I would be wrong to suspect that they were all picked by someone name Charlie? You can rest assured that if Bill were in Charlie's position Bill would pick the BOD. I honestly don't care how much Charlie makes. I do care that they have messed up the HBD for a period of time. I do care that because of personal difference that they pulled out of the BJCP and caused quite a bit of grief. I do care that it appears that they care more about their advertisers then they do about the homebrewers in America and the world. I care that they are more concerned with the "business" of the AOB then the membership. Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 09:25:51 -0700 (MST) From: Ian Smith <rela!isrs at netcom.com> Subject: Iodophor,betadine and stainless steel Chris North mentions that medical betadine might be OK with stainless. My S.O. is a nurse and they have been told to limit exposure of stainless equipment to betadine during sanitation/sterilization due to corrosion problems. I don't know if it is different to iodophor - can someone out there put the record straight ? Cheers Ian Smith isrs at rela.uucp.netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 97 12:33:50 CST From: jwilkins at imtn.tpd.dsccc.com (John Wilkinson) Subject: RE: Fermenting in 10gal Corny? George Schamel wrote: >I am considering switching to fermenting in 10 gallon corny kegs for >health and safety reasons (broken glass and a bad back :{ ). Does >anyone have experience with fermenting approximately 9 gallons in a >10 gallon container? Specifically, how many gallons can one ferment >in a 10 gallon corny without excessive blowoff? I ferment regularly in a 10 gallon Cornelius type (actually Firestone, I think) keg and get from 8 to 9 gallons in without problems of blowoff. My problem has been foaming from aeration when I aerated by pouring back and forth between sanitized buckets. I got so much foam it wouldn't all fit in the keg. I finally just let the foam spill out to get all the liquid in I could. I then clean up the keg after capping to try to eliminate excess infection sites. I am using an oxygen bottle and SS airstone now and haven't had a problem. My latest brews have been lagers at 42-44 F and the ferments have been slow enough to not worry about blowoff from 9 gallons, even when reusing yeast from the previous batch. Speaking of oxygen, I use a kit from Gulfstream brewing. They recommend opening the valve just enough to cause bubbling from the airstone but it is difficult to see if it is bubbling. Granted, my first use was with a stout which made it difficult to see anything in the wort even in a glass carboy, and the next was with the SS fermenter where of course I could only see the surface, which was already foamy from running in the chilled wort through an aeration tube. At any rate, I blew the airstone off both times. The first I opened the valve 3 turns instead of the recommended 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 but the last times I just used 2 1/2 which I had done before successfully. The last time I had just taken the stone and tubing out of the hot wort where I had suspended it for the last 15 minutes of boil to sanitize and perhaps the vinyl tubing was still soft. At any rate, I have had only moderate luck with the device so far. I would like to use some type of clamp around the tubing where the stone is inserted to help hold it on but I don't think I have seen any clamps that small (~1/4"). Any suggestions? Also, the latest catalog from Brewers Resource has a setup offered using a 2 micron stone and recommending 15-30 seconds for 5 gallons where Gulfstream uses, I think, a .5 micron stone and recommends two 15 second bursts separated by 20 minutes for the same volume. Brewers Resource goes on to say that the 15-30 seconds of O2 is equivalent to 15-30 minutes of air. If air is 20 percent O2 why wouldn't the ratio be 1:5 rather than 1:60. What am I missing? Does anyone have any opinions on O2 oxygenation practices? Specifically, stone pore size, flow rate, and length of time of flow? Thanks, John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins at imtn.dsccc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 11:38:00 -0800 From: DAVE_SAPSIS at fire.ca.gov (DAVE SAPSIS) Subject: Coopers Sparkling Dana asked about Coopers Sparkling Ale about a week ago, and since there have been no responses, I'll chime in. Anyone who is a beer fan and who has recently been to Adelaide would do the same. I was fortunate enough to get a personalized tour and meet with Glenn Cooper (a 5th generation Cooper and the current director of marketing), and although it was a very congenial and rewarding visit, the Coopers folks are pretty cagey when it comes to releasing specific production information. Cooper's Sparkling is top fermented, with a mixed strain that is present in the bottle. It is made of predominantly 2-row pale malt that is furnished by the company's own maltings located about 50 km north of Adelaide. South Australia and Victoria are prime malt growing regions. I am not aware if Coopers has interests in barley production or not. It is possible that a small percentage of high kilned (Vienna or Munich type) malt is used, but I could not verify this. There is no doubt, however, that they do use an appreciable (15-20% of fermetables) amount of glucose in the Sparkling. Only Pride of Ringwood hops are used ( a medium alpha hop that is the foundation of the Oz hop market), to an estimated bitterness of 25 BU. I and others speculate that no aroma hops are used. Original gravity of the beer is estimated at about 14P (1056). The beer is no longer fermented in the puncheon barrels, as depicted on the label. Rather, large Stainless cylinders are used, but I could not see the bottoms to see if they were conical. Ferment lasts about 6-8 days at 18C (64-65). The beers are krausened with freshly fermenting beer prior to bottling, but the specifics of this process are unknown to me. After bottling, the beers are conditioned for 2-3 weeks prior to distribution. The beers taste profile can vary all over the map, and I strongly encourage anyone who wants to know much about how it should taste to get it fresh. When fresh, this beer has an altogether unique profile, redolent with strong apple and pear fruit accents, and a rounded earthy bitterness. Body is light. Conditioning is high. The yeast in the bottle in noticeably dusty. When fresh, the yeast has a pleasant bready-yeasty character. As the beer ages, it becomes increasingly fusel, aldehydic, and with pronounced phenol that is spicey-sharp and unpleasant. I had a draft sparkling in Sydney that tasted remarkably like old and mistreated Duvel, if you can believe that. Of course I brought a bunch back with me, and attempted making it. I used cultured yeast out of the bottle and domestic tow row, along with 20% glucose. My rendition came out reasonably close, but had significantly higher banana esters, and not the rounded earthy bitterness of the original. It resembled it, but was entirely unremarkable compared to the real deal. One surprising thing that arose (or more accurately fell out) from this effort, was that the yeast strain that dominated the selection process was particularly flocculent, to a point of being gluey at the bottom of the secondary. I had to shake the keg to get it to cloud up, otherwise it was completely bright. Couple of points: The dry yeast accompanying Coopers Kits is produced by Mowry, and is not the same as that employed by the brewery. They asserted that the facility is currently the leading producer of liquid malt extract in the world (as told to them by folks in the U.K.). Much of there production is for extract (unfortunately when I got to the brewdeck they were making hopped amber extract and thus questions regarding grist composition, length, hopping etc, were a muddled bunch of generalities). They produce about 9 products, all but four are lagers. Two are relics from their rich history: the Sparkling and their Best Extra Stout. Coopers is currently the only remaining family owned operation brewing significant volumes of beer in Oz. This is largely due to the provision of Thos. Cooper to not allow any single member of the family to sell out, and having 19 children. There is considerable state provincial pride in their products throughout South Australia. Ale production is increasing at about 5% per annum, despite the overall trends toward lighter, insipid lager products. Adelaide is a lovely city (rather like a large town) that is only a short drive to very wonderful scenery and two very nice winegrowing/producing areas. Well worth a visit. Andy Walsh and I are planning on an article for Brewing Techniques on this wonderful endemic style. All we need is some more cooperation from the good folks at Thos. Coopers & Sons., and a little bit of time to put it together. Hope this has been of general interest, cheers, --dave Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 14:52:04 -0500 (EST) From: ir358 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John Goldthwaite) Subject: William's Brewing # It looked like a few folks might need the William's Brewing # in San Leandro,CA. No affiliation blah blah... Here you go: orders-800-759-6025 phone orders-fax-800-283-2745 They do have very fine liquid extracts and the fruit flavorings are TONS better than LD Carlson's. Tried Ld's a couple times and they are not good. JG. - -- BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER! Return to table of contents
Date-warning: Date header was inserted by ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl at ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu> Subject: pale ale lite? Tim Plummer <plummer at brick.purchase.edu> writes: >So, my question is, if I have a low O.G., American-hopped pale ale, which >style is it most appropriately classified to be? American Pale Ale? >American Pale Ale LITE? If I cut back on the priming sugar a bit, could >it be called an American Special Bitter? 1. First answer, as you mention, is to call it what you want. American Special Bitter would be a great homebrew name. 2. Since you mentioned style guidelines, let's say you want to enter this beer in a competition. A Pale Ale LITE might fall into the category of blonde ale, a beer that is light bodied, light flavored with little hop character. Blonde ale doesn't seem to have made it to the AHA styles, but it is included in the new BJCP style guidelines. Pale Ales, as well as english style ales, have a lot of hop character--that is, hop flavor and aroma to go with a lot of hop bitterness. These are hoppy styles and the balance should definately lean towards the hops. As far as published style guidelines go, those are about your choices. I agree that the history and nuaces of styles are fun. You're on your way to becoming a beer judge. - Bryan grosbl at ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 18:00:54 -0600 From: "Louis K. Bonham" <lkbonham at phoenix.net> Subject: AOB/AHA Regarding Terry White's recent chiding of the critics of the AHA, suffice it to say that I and many, many other disagree with his assessment. For those of you still making up your own minds, consider Martin Lodahl's recent take on this discussion (reposted with his permission): =============================================== [begin Lodahl r.c.b. post, which starts with a quote from another post] > Or, if everyone has assumed the AHA is basically now just irrelevant > and is ignoring it...which is what I concluded a couple of years ago. Exactly my opinion. The only thing that makes this battle worthwhile is that the community of homebrewers isn't large enough to support two organizations that claim to represent our interests, so until the AHA either reinvents itself or dies, we're out of luck. - Martin - -- Martin Lodahl of Auburn, CA lodahl at foothill.net Beer Brewer, Judge and Scribe Winner of the Quill & Tankard Award [end Lodahl post] ========================================= I'd also note that I've received tons of e-mail from many other "heavyweights" of the homebrewing world (including Jim Busch, Steve Moore, and AHA "Advisors" Jeff Frane and Scott Birdwell) echoing similar thoughts. (Most people familiar with the homebrewing community would agree that these people have indeed had lots of experience "running things other than [their] mouth.") Regardless of what Mr. White thinks the AOB/AHA may have done in the past, it remains an organization with serious problems. Until it is even willing to address the hard questions that I and others have asked, veteran homebrewers will continue to desert it in droves, as they are doing now. And that's the saddest part of all, because there's a wealth of experience and willingness to assist in the AOB's stated mission that is being routinely flushed in the name of protecting the featherbed. >The common thread seems to be that there are a few people out >there who want to have some control over the AHA. I have sat >and read people argue for a month about weather it is better >to have the water go in the top or the bottom of your wort >chiller. How would anything ever get done? Things would get done same way they are at virtually every other member-supported nonprofit: you have a Board of Directors elected by the members, who exercise oversight authority over and operate as a check on the paid staff if they're going in a direction that the membership doesn't particularly approve of (i.e., spending AOB $ to fund Charlie's international junkets, publishing goofiness like the recent Zymurgy special issue, attempting to take over the BJCP, etc.). No such check exists today, which I believe is the root of the problem. >Charlie started the AHA and I think he deserves any compensation >he gets, have you ever checked out the salary of other heads of non >profit organizations, $100,000 is not out of line. Mr. White is, of course, entitled to his opinion. Methinks that most AHA members (and probably the IRS) would find that a $100,000+ salary for someone with no hands-on management or editorial duties is excessive for a nonprofit organization to be paying. Of course, I'm willing to listen to Charlie's explanation of why this nonprofit should be paying him this much loot or why AHA (and IBS) members cannot have any role in the selection of AOB officers and directors. However, from his recent posting he's apparently having too much fun to be bothered with these issues. Louis K. Bonham lkbonham at phoenix.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 20:28:41 -0600 From: "Michael T. Bell" <mikeb at flash.net> Subject: B-Brite A quick question for the masses. I am giving up the use of bleach in my brewery (I know, already) and would like to know a little about B-Brite or simaliar products from someone who has used it. I understand it is not a sanitizer. I use Iodophor for this. Is it safe to use on vinyl tubing? How about silicone tubing? The inards of my pump? Do you use it with hot water or cold? How long? Thats all folks. TIA Michael T. Bell Boomerdog Brewing Arlington, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 1997 21:48:22 -0500 (EST) From: Esbitter at aol.com Subject: Last Call for Homebrew Competition Entries (Randy Reed) Entries for the BJCP sanctioned Second Annual South Shore Brewoff are due March 15th! Ribbons will be awarded and judges will receive breakfast and lunch and a gift of appreciation. Information and entry forms can be found at the following Boston area-south Homebrew Shops: Witches Brew, 25 Baker St. Foxboro, MA (508)-543-0433 Barleycorn Enterprises, 149 Union St. Rockland, MA 02370 (617)-871-9399 Hoppy Brewer, 493 Central Ave. Seekonk, MA 02771 (508)-761-6615 Barley Malt & Vine, 26 Elliot St. Newton, MA 02161 (617)-630-1015 Brew Horizons, 884 Tiogue Ave., Coventry, RI 02816 (401)-589-2739 More info can also be found at our web site: http://members.aol.com/brewclub/ Mailing address for entries is South Shore Brew Club c/o Glenn Markel 1053 Pleasant Street Attleboro, MA 02703 Questions? Call Glenn Markel at 508-226-3249 or Randy Reed at 617-341-8170. Interested judges can call Stephen Rose at 508-821-4152 to sign up. Deadline for entry is MARCH 15! Judging occurs on Sunday the 23rd, in Easton, MA. GOOD LUCK! Randy ==================================================== +-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ + The Local Brewing Company + + ESBITTER at AOL.COM + Surfing the + Randy Reed + Information + BJCP Recognized SuperBikePath Beer Judge/Potscrubber + & + South Shore Brew Club + Web Wired + (Boston, MA Area - South) + World +-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-+ Visit the South Shore Brew Club at http://members.aol.com/brewclub/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 97 13:21:10 JST From: hoshido at gman.rme.sony.co.jp (Mutsuo Hoshido) Subject: how to homebrew Miso Miso(soy-bean salty paste) is one of very healthy natural foods,and now getting better and better appreciation all over the world. Some doctors say that Miso will prevent cancer and others say that Miso will cure disease caused by radioactive pollution and so on. Your own Miso is very tasty. We have a saying "Temae-Miso". Direct translation is "my own way Miso". Meanig is blowing one's own horn. [Materials] Soy-beans,1000g(2.2lb) Kome-koji or rice-koji, 1000g(2.2lb) Salt,300g(0.79lb) to 400g(0.9lb) depending on your taste. Natural salt will be better taste. Patience to wait. [Equipment] Steam cooker (Pressure steam cooker is much easier to cook soy-beans). Basket to cut water. Stainless steel bowl. Ten liters(2.6gal) enamel or stainless steel deep cooking pot with lid. (Equivalent food grade plastic or glass container can be used.) Mincing machine or equivalent to make cooked soy-bean pasty. [Procedure] 1.Wash and soak the 1000g(2.2lb) soy-beans for about 24 hours. 2.Steam cook the soy-beans at least 3 hours so that the cooked soy-beans can be easily crushed by week finger pressure between thumb and pinkie. 3.During cooking the soy-beans,well mix the 1000g(2.2lb)Kome-koji with the 300g(0.79lb) to 400g(0.9lb) salt in the bowl. 4.Mince the cooked soy-beans and then well mix with the Kome-koji-salt mixture in the bowl. I used thick polyethylene bag to crush the cooked soy-beans and mix with Kome-koji-salt mixture. I put the well cooked soy-beans into to the bag and smash them under my feet. Mixture with Kome-koji can be done in the bag by the same way. This is the cheepest way but you have to do good exercise. 5.Make base-ball size soy-bean balls and strongly throw them into the container one by one so that air in the soy-bean balls can be removed. 6.Further press the soy-bean mixture by hands to completely remove air in it to prevent unfavorable rotting. 7.Cover the soy-bean mixture with a kitchen wrapping film and then further cover the film with about 0.2 inch thick salt to prevent contamination of bacteria.. 8.Put the lid and place the container at a cool and well ventilated place.(Under 15 deg C or 50deg F) 9.In a month,remove the covering salt and kitchen film and well mix the soy-bean mixture. If you have found fungi on the Miso,just remove only that part. Other part is still OK. 10.Again cover them with a kitchen film and salt and further keep them at the same place as in No.8. 11.Further in three month,conduct the same mixing procedure as the No.9. 12.In further around seven month, you can use your own Miso for your Miso soup or for your other cookings. Once removed the covering salt,keep your Miso in your refrigerator. If you continiously keep your Miso further one or two years,you can get better tasty darker Miso. How to make Kome-koji from Koji or Koji-kin 1.Wash and soak the 1000g(2.2lb) rice for about five hours and then put the rice in a basket for at least 20 min. to cut water. 2.Steam cook the rice. Steam cooked rice looks slightly transparent, not white. 3.Cool down the cooked rice to 35deg C(95deg F). Put the rice into an enamel or stainless steel thin container and add 2 to 3g of Koji or Koji-kin and well mix them. Cover the container with water moistened cheese cloth or cotton cloth to prevent drying. 4.Put the container in a picnic cooling box together with 40deg C(104 deg F) warm water bottles to keep the inside at 35deg C(95deg F) for 40 hours. The amount of the warm water will preferably be at least 8 litters (2 gal). If necessary, change the warm water to keep the temperature constant. In 10 hours,mix again the mixture of the cooked rice and Koji using a cooking sparula. Already you can notice the whitened rice and get good aroma. I used a digital thermometer to measure the temperature inside. It is very useful and convenient to keep temperature constant without any expensive electrical temperature control device. 5.Further keep the mixture at 35deg C(95deg F) for 30 hours. 6.You can get white colored Kome-koji covered with white fungus. My homebrew friend,Mr.T.Takesima,opened his Koji URL so that you can get further information on Koji in the USA. Koji URL; His beer page in Japanese; Following is a copy of Mr.T.Takeshima's Home Page. What is Koji? Koji is a kind of mold having enzyme to convert starch to sugar. Koji is used for making Sake (Japanse rice wine), Miso (soy-bean paste), Shoyu (soy-sauce), etc. As mashing step is necessary to convert starch to sugar in brewing, the action of Koji is indispensable to make sake. In case of brewing fermentation takes please after starch conversion has finished. In making sake, on the other hand, starch conversion by Koji and fermentation by Sake yeast proceed in the same fermenter at the same time. In Sake making, Koji not only works as starch converter, but also produces complexity in flavor of Sake. Where to find Koji in US There are at least a few (probably more) Koji makers in US. Most of you can get Koji rice at your local homebrew suppliers. There is a Koji maker which I have address and phone number. Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. 4287 Puente Av., Baldwin Park, CA 91716 Phone: 818-962-9633 Another way to get Koji is mail order. Here is information of mail order suppliers. G.E.M. Cultures 30301 Shrwood Rd., Fort Bragg, CA 95437 Phone: 707-964-2922 Kushi Institute Store Toll-Free: 1-800-64-KUSHI (1-800-645-8744) e-mail: store at macrobiotics.org These companies make rice Koji fundamentally for making miso (soy-bean paste), soy-source and/or ama-zake. I usually use ~2lbs pack of dried rice Koji made by Miyako Oriental Foods when I homebrew my sake. According to the mail order catalog of G.E.M. Cultures, they seem also to provide Koji starter which enables you to make Koji by yourself at home. I hope you are successful. Mutsuo Hoshido Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 1997 00:07:59 -0800 From: smurman at best.com Subject: Zymurgy mag/bottling yeast/etc. I just got the latest copy of Zymurgy, and three of HBD's finest are featured; Spencer Thomas, Ken Schwartz, and Jeff Renner. Keep up the good work guys. I hesitate to bring this subject up after the recent AOB/AHA bashing, and the fact that the last subject I mentioned (botulism) turned into a binge thread, but what is up with the editors at Zymurgy? For the special issue they brainstormed long and hard and came up with "Why we Brew"?? Yeah, that was relevant. Then I get this issue and the cover story is "The Bottle Opener". Not that getting bottles open isn't important, but come on. It convinced me not to renew and give my money to Brewing Techniques instead. // I was wondering the other day about the practice of adding a different yeast at bottling time. What exactly is the benefit to this practice. The only thing I can think of is that if you're brewing an ale, and you want to cold store it while in the bottle a lager yeast would help. Vice versa for lagers and ale yeasts. This doesn't seem worth the trouble to me. Why not simply add the same yeast you fermented with? // I'm slowly, very slowly, putting my homebrew stuff onto my web server. I have the ever-growing acronym list, and also a list of Wyeast strains with their brewing sources (i.e. Sierra Nevada == 1056) on the server so far. If folks could check out the yeast stuff, and fill in any gaps that are missing it would be appreciated. http://www.best.com/~smurman/zymurgy Sometime in the next month I will put my Perl scripts for homebrew calculations on the server. SM Return to table of contents