HOMEBREW Digest #241 Wed 30 August 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  What you need for a kegging system (Steve Conklin)
  Who is Elbro Nerkte, anyway? (Steve Anthony)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #240 (August 29, 1989) (Steve "Mr. MBA" Lindahl)
  Books and Yeast (Patrick Stirling [Sun Consulting Services Mtn View])
  Re: Book recommendation wanted (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Several Things ("Brian CapouchfEHFTmQ:8:8")
  CAMRA membership (Pete Soper)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Aug 89 9:40:07 CDT From: Steve Conklin <hpfcla!hplabs!amdahl!uunet!tesla!steve> Subject: What you need for a kegging system I did get the request for help, but my reply must not have made it. I'll distribute it now, since it may be of general interest. What I will do here is go through the items that you will need to put together a kegging system. This will only be my best guess for part numbers from Rapids, as I bought my supplies from a homebrew supply shop. I don't promise that the items specified are the right ones, but I think they are. I suggest that once you get your shopping list together, you call the people at Rapids and talk with them about it. Heck, they might even put together a "home kegging kit". Basically, the equipment you need is (in order of flow): || CO2 tank || CO2 regulator (get a two-guage, so you can tell when you're low on gas) I would just order the 5 lb cylinder with the double gauge regulator on page 16. They sell it as part of a home refrigerator keg conversion kit. Part number (PT-47-R) If you want a ten lb cylinder, order the cylinder on page 23 (G-100), and either the Grundy reuglator on page 24 (2-G-371) or the Cornelius regulator on page 25 (3-C-148). || one-way valve to prevent back-flow The Grundy regulator includes a back-flow valve. The text for the Cornelius valve doesn't mention one, and I can't find a seperate valve in the catalog. This is important. It's a cheap item, but prevents the regulator from being damaged by beer. || fitting to go to tubing Make sure that this is provided with the regulator. If not, buy it. Item number 105-H on page 23 is probably the right one. (hose nipple - lower right corner). || gas tubing (I just use regular siphon tube, it works fine at 10-15 PSI) This is listed on page 32, part numbers 171-X, where X is the color you want. || adapter to go from tubing to quick disconnect fitting (required on some QD || fittings) || quick disconnect fitting for gas inlet on tank || tank (the keg) || quick disconnect for beer outlet on tank || another adapter (maybe) I'll address all of these together. On page 20, rapids sells their "bulk tank". This is your keg. The part number is RP-714 for the 5 gal tank. You'll need QD fittings for the gas and beer, one each ( 3-C-342 and 3-C-353 ). These fittings aren't pictured, so I don't know if they have a threaded fitting or a tubing barb. You will need to check that out and buy the adapters if needed. || beer tubing (more siphon hose) || valve for beer (5-R-111 on page 34) I would just order the valve with the hose attached on page 34 (5-R-133). If you want to put in a real tap handle, you'll have to figure out what you need. || you will need four little hose clamps (the kind with the screw, called || aircraft clamps) to attach the hoses. These are on page 33, part number (2380) Now let me repeat that this is only my best guess at the what the right parts from Rapids are, and that I have not put together a system from them. Compared to all of the homebrew supply shops I have seen, they have by far the best prices. I suggest that you call and discuss your plans with them, and when you get it all figured out, post your results. You might ask them if they would consider putting all this together in a package, because I think that at their prices there would be a market for it. There is a photo in the catalog of the president of the company, "proudly standing in front of his beer can collection". Maybe you should call him up and offer to send him a six-pack of home-brew. It also says in the catalog "we pride ourselves on providing real service. Don't hesitate to call". I hope this helps! Once you keg, you'll never look back. I kegged a batch Saturday, and it took 30 minutes, including sanitizing the keg, kegging the beer, and cleaning the carboy. I discovered that a Scotch-Brite pad is just the item to remove dried deposits from a stainless keg. Steve Conklin uunet!ingr!tesla!steve Intergraph Corp. tesla!steve at ingr.com Huntsville, AL 35807 (205) 772-4013 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 89 09:58:01 EDT From: Steve Anthony <steveo at Think.COM> Subject: Who is Elbro Nerkte, anyway? While perusing TCJoHB, I noted the recipie for Elbro Nerkte Brown Ale (pg 168). CP states "If you ever have the opportunity to ask me who Elbro Nerkte is, I'll tell you." Has anyone ever asked him? And if so, who is it? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 89 8:05:46 MDT From: slindahl at orion.cair.du.edu (Steve "Mr. MBA" Lindahl) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #240 (August 29, 1989) Please take me off this mailing list.... Danke -- ][][][[][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ slindahl at orion.cair.du.edu slindahl at ducair.BITNET slindahl at duorion.UUCP The Devil finds works for idle circuits to do! ][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 89 09:04:30 PDT From: pms at Sun.COM (Patrick Stirling [Sun Consulting Services Mtn View]) Subject: Books and Yeast I have Charlie Papazian's 'The Complete Joy of Homebrewing'. It's the best I've seen yet. It's written in a very friendly style and explains all I've needed to know very well. It also has many recipes. I strongly recommend it! On to yeasts. I've been brewing for a year or so, and I've used both Edme and Doric yeast. I haven't done any controlled tests so I can't quantify the difference between them, but they both worked fine for me. Both are ale yeasts. What's 'attenuative'? Sounds like it's the speed with which a yeast does its job and goes dormant. If so, both Edme and Doric do their stuff in a week or so (but I always leave it for at least 2 weeks). On another tack, what do you think of using ice to cool wort? I've tried it a couple of times with no (apparent) ill effects. Previously I used just cold water to make up the volume, which cooled the wort to 90-100F, and pitched the yeast at about 85-90F. It seemed to work OK. Now I dump the entire contents of our fridge's (automatic) ice maker's tray into the bucket and pour on the wort - gets it to about 75F, much better! The ice is just tap water so I don't see any problems. Using a chiller strikes me as being just as unsanitary as ice anyway. I'm currently brewing my first attempt at a barleywine - although it seems to be turning out to be more af a winter warmer. 10lb syrup and 2lb grains in 5gal got me 1.070 OG - I was expecting closer to 1.090; and after 10days of fermenting with a wine yeast it's now at 1.030 - I was hoping for 1.020-25. It tastes good though so I guess I shouldn't complain! As Papazian keeps saying, "Don't worry, relax - have a homebrew!". Final question: Does anyone have a good recipe for a Trappist Ale? patrick Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 89 10:04:10 PDT From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!mal at hplabs.HP.COM> Subject: Re: Book recommendation wanted In HBD #240, Bruce Buck asked: >What is the best all-around book on homebrewing? .... > ... what does everyone recommend? My vote goes to "The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing", by Dave Miller. My homebrewing library is not large, consisting of less than a dozen volumes, and doesn't include such classics as "Malting and Brewing Science", but it does include both of Miller's books and Greg Noonan's classic "Brewing Lager Beer". TCHoH sees more use than the rest of them put together. Not a week goes by without my consulting it, and it's never failed me yet. It can be used as an introductory text, but I think its best role is just what you intend to use it for, Bruce. = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = {att,bellcore,sun,ames}!pacbell!pbmoss!mal 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 89 13:30:02 -0500 (CDT) From: "Brian CapouchfEHFTmQ:8:8" <brianc at zeta.saintjoe.EDU> Subject: Several Things In response to the question about the hot and cold breaks, Martin Lodahl writes: >The hot break occurs during boil, and results in the sediments left behind >with the hops when racking from the boiler (assuming you cool the wort >elsewhere). Some people are fanatical that "oxidation of hot wort is a major cause of early staling and cloudy worts." (I forget who I'm quoting.) Since I have run into that piece of advice several times, I now move my wort directly from the boil over to be chilled, hops, sediments and all. After it's down into the decently cool range (75 or so) I carefully rack the wort off the trub, and pitch my yeast. I had been removing the chiller first and letting it settle for a while, but I've discovered that that step is unnecessary, and results in the wort sitting around without any chilling going on. THIS ONLY WORKS FOR ME WITH PELLETED HOPS. I had a horrendous time once trying to get my wort into the fermenter when I'd used leaf hops right as the boil finished; they clogged my siphon hose a hundred times. I have a topic of my own: extraction rates on mashed beers. I can't seem to ever hit the gravity reading that the writers of books recommend. I'm always lower, and I know it's probably because I'm not doing a good job on my mash out. Do others also find this common? Do they then augment their worts with extracts to get to recommended gravity levels, or just smile and not worry? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 89 15:36:03 EDT From: yethiraj at che.ncsu.edu Hi, I found out about this from the guys at Cornell. Could you add me to the list? Thank you, Arun Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 89 14:08:50 EDT From: Pete Soper <soper at maxzilla.encore.com> Subject: CAMRA membership In HBD 240 Michael Eldredge provided an interesting collection of supplier and publication data. One note about the "What's Brewing" entry. The 9 pound annual CAMRA membership and subscription fee is for folks living in the UK. It is 12 pounds per year for overseas membership. --Pete Soper Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #241, 08/30/89 ************************************* -------
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