HOMEBREW Digest #2506 Mon 15 September 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  A 122F Surprise Indeed - No Head ("Charles Rich")
  Sweetening an Stout??? (Mike Smith)
  Jethro on Irradiation ("Rob Moline")
  HBD at GABF?? (Mark Tumarkin)
  entire butt cont. (Mark Tumarkin)
  Spooky Brew Review/Beer Lasers (eric fouch)
  "Dynasty", "Dallas" and Total Beverage (dconger)
  Wyeast 2565 (Kolsch) (Nathan Moore)
  Thermometers/ siphoning (TheTHP)
  "Dumbing Down" of Craft Brewing (KennyEddy)
  Re: Bottle/Keg Alternative--Plastic bottles (Todd Ehlers)
  Hop plants / Post harvest questions (Manbeck, Brad J.)" <BJM at roisysinc.com>
  135F rest / lactic acid / no bottles! (Brian Bliss)
  Tailgate; philosophy (Samuel Mize)
  Kegging hardware, etc. ("Mark S. Johnston")
  Driving off chlorine (John Rezabek)
  RE: Efficiency Problem ("Capt. Marc Battreall")
  John Palmer (The Holders)
  Jethro on Mark Silva's Comments ("Rob Moline")
  A Style Question (Mark Tumarkin)
  TID: Is it a Homebrew? (Bob.Sutton)
  Re: Fwd: Rob Moline and the Little Apple Debacle (Brewboy1) (Gary Krone)
  The Definitive Butt Treatment (not Preparation H) (Junius Adams)
  Exploding Carboys (Kent Peetz)
  Re: cooler yield/PBW/2-row vs. 6-row (Spencer W Thomas)
  Grain Volume Goof / Dry Yeast Anonymous (KennyEddy)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 21:30:56 -0700 From: "Charles Rich" <riches at halcyon.com> Subject: A 122F Surprise Indeed - No Head In all the merriment I don't think anyone touched on the principal reason for doing the 122F rest. The 122F rest is mainly to prevent amino-starved worts in mashes high in adjuncts, which, because they are unmalted, don't contribute a share of dietary amino acids needed for healthy yeast. Unmalted adjuncts dilute the free amino nutrient (listed as free amino nitrogen or FAN) provided by the base malt. They yield a lot of sugar for the yeast but they don't provide enough FAN to sustain reproduction. Even european pils malts by themselves provide adequate FAN for a no-adjunct mash. But cut the grainbill with a lot of corn or unmalted wheat and you reduce the percent of nitrogen in the wort directly. A grainbill with 20%+ unmalted wheat, or corn (maize), pumpkins etc. can thin the nutrient pool to a risky degree. Note that North American 2 and 6-row malt is loaded with FAN and so can take heavy dilution, see Jeff Renner's Classic American Pilsner, but low-FAN malt doesn't take it as well. So, the 122F rest can come to the rescue by developing more amino acids and peptides - but at the expense of heading, body and mouthfeel. If one is mashing a no-adjunct bill or a very low-adjunct bill (5%), even euro-pils malts can safely skip the 122F rest - and should - where even a twenty-minute rest there will appreciably ding your heading. If more heading, body and mouthfeel are wanted, and who doesn't - a protein rest above 131F will develop it further. If you don't like losing some of your MMWP because a 122F rest is needed, you can recover some of your losses by another rest above 131F. Say 132F-138F. When mashing with adjuncts, because they are unmalted you can also introduce raw gums (glucans) to the mash, increasing its viscosity and hampering easy runoff. In the recent Brewing Techniques, May-August 1997, 'Advancement: Step Mash for Customized Worts', Jim Busch lists 99F-113F as the optimum glucan rest temperature. Note that although this temp is also sometimes used for an acid rest it does not appreciably change pH after dough-in until after several hours, even in distilled water. See for yourself. ======================================== Follow up on kitchen protein experiments: Procedure change - Resting the decanted liquid instead of keeping it in the grain skews the results, although it demonstrates the hit that 122F takes, it doesn't show all the gains from a rest at 132F or higher. More MMWP (heading proteins) develop as more protein comes into solution at the higher temperatures. Doh! ======================================== Burner efficiency tip: I used aluminum roofing flashing for a cheap, simple thermal jacket around the bottom half of my kettle and it cut my time to reach boling almost in half. To keep it evenly spaced, I snipped 1-inch diagonal cuts along the top, every five or six inches, then bent the triangular tabs inward, pointing toward the kettle. The tips just touch the sides of the kettle holding the jacket about an inch away all around. I held it together with pop-rivets but paperclips would probably do. ======================================== Ken Schwartz (thanks for the Son of Fermentation Chiller, too) re: resting at higher proteolytic ranges skewing saccharification. You can tune the pH for the conversion you want, say pH 4.8 for proteins in a thick mash (0.8:1 to 1:1), then later, infuse with water to raise the pH and thin the mash for a saccharification favoring mash. Re: SoF Chiller, A wood rasp dresses foam board nicely, a bandsaw even better. I can keep 45F in my 75F garage. Clorox bottles are tougher than milk jugs. ======================================== Bucket-of-stuff dehumifiers happen to use Calcium Chloride. Bags of refill are $1-2.00 ea. ======================================== Re:LBarrowman's nice summary in #2503, "4) pH Adjust after mashing" - if you plan a protein rest you might wish to raise pH after the rest instead of before. Proteolytic enzymes like low pH. "7) Calculate" - Malt spec sheets report numbers on a "dry basis" (0% moisture) which is theoretical and makes the numbers look impossibly good. ======================================== Mike Spinelli and 4# of oats in a 20 gallon batch. I use a glucan rest at 105F with oats, but oats can give a slippery mouthfeel if overused. I might keep it down to 2-3# . Cheers, Charles Rich Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 15:30:09 +1000 From: Mike Smith <s3113697 at bohm.anu.edu.au> Subject: Sweetening an Stout??? Could anyone out there help with suggestions on how to sweeten a Stout. We used a Coopers wort (an Australian brand)and 1kg dark liquod malt and 1kg dark powered malt. Fermented for 2 weeks at a steady 27 derees c.Its just a little bitter. Yours Mike Smith:) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 97 01:06:57 PDT From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: Jethro on Irradiation The Jethro Gump Report Irradiation..... Until Sam Mize pointed out these pages, which I haven't looked at yet, this was one of the responses.....I don't think Andy will mind my posting it here... but, I am on the way to Trademark the "Skunkifier".... >From: aab1 at chrysler.com > >'Twont work Capn'. > >The original "Bubble Chamber" , a device used to measure the amount of >ionizing particles in an area was >inspired by a scientist working at U of M sitting in a bar in Ann Arbor >staring at the bubbles in his beer after >a rough day of no progress. It then dawned on him: The ionizing >particles will form nucleation sites as it >passes through the beer! Eureka. He ran out of the bar with his beer >and invented the first bubble chamber. > >So, It boils down to this, It could be done, but it would have to be >with perfectly flat beer. > >-Andy Birko Andy, So, a bubble chamber is a device full of carbonated water, under pressure? Does this mean that a nuclear attack or accidental detonation would make glass grenades of all homebrew, (and coke, etc.) with a certain radius? >Hmm.. Good point. I never even thought about this hazard. I can see >only one solution: empty every >bottle as soon as possible to prevent any unnecessary risk. >-Andy So, after this advice, I can only say that when the missiles are coming in, drink your homebrew! What else would you do?? OK? I know!! But Seriously... >From: Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net> >Subject: Irradiation; > >You'll hear a lot of paranoia and FUD about using radiation. As you >probably already know, Rob, (1) radiation doesn't stay in food -- >except as heat; (2) the chemical changes due to irradiation are >largely the same as those from the heat of cooking. I don't believe that my teeth are radioactive, and they have seen their share of rays, as has the rest of while doing rays in surgery and such...but chem changes were unexpected..... >OTOH, it takes a heap of radiation to sterilize things. This means >you have to have a ton of shielding and control systems, and that >means money. For a product like beer, that can be pasteurized by >normal means, it's probably quite uneconomical. Irradiation is >best for things like meat or veggies, that CAN'T be heat pasteurized >and retain any apparent freshness. > >And I believe you WILL get some chemical changes, just as you would >from heat pasteurization. You're still adding energy to the food. My only experiences were from packaged supplies, done by the folks at Gladesville Hospital, NSW, that were then sent to the irradition units...but not being informed on this, just thought...why not? Is it one of those things that just draws out the fear mongers? Or could it work? Thanks, gents! JG Rob Moline Brewer At Large brewer at ames.net "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 08:20:05 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <tumarkin at mindspring.com> Subject: HBD at GABF?? Ian Smith asks: >Does anyone know when the Great American Beer Festival starts this year ? Yes, it starts on Thursday Oct. 2, and runs through Sat. Oct. 4. You can get more info on the AOB web site at www.aob.org/gabfframeset.htm This is going to be my first year at the GABF. I'm really looking forward to tasting a lot of great beers that I have only read about. (Florida has some really restrictive bottle laws that severely limit the brands sold here - this law was put through for the benefit of the big brewers, that's one of my biggest complaints about the budmilloors crowd). I know that probably a lot of you are also going. Any interest in having an HBD get-together at a nearby pub after one of the sessions? Maybe after the Thursday members-only session. They are going to announce the winners early this year. It would be great to meet you guys, put faces with the names we've come to know, you all seem like friends that I'd love to hoist a pint with and discuss the winners. If any of you are interested, and especially if you've been to the fest before and can suggest a good, close location with interesting beer - I'd love to hear from you. Mark Tumarkin The Brewery in the Jungle Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 08:26:42 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <tumarkin at mindspring.com> Subject: entire butt cont. michel brown writes: >Thanks to Jonas, Charley, Randy, Mark, Paul, and Tom, I confirmed the meaning of the Entire part, in relation to Porter ale, and brewing. However, no clear definition has come to light in regards to the "Butt" portion of the equation! Pardon my French, I just don't seem to get the connection in relationship to the use of the word "Butt" in this context. Where's the Oxford English Dictionary when you need it? TTYAL, ILBCNU! well, I just went to Websters dictionary web site and found the following: Function: noun Etymology: Middle English, from Middle French botte, from Old Proven=E7al bota, from Late Latin buttis Date: 14th century 1 : a large cask especially for wine, beer, or water 2 : any of various units of liquid capacity; especially : a measure equal to 108 imperial gallons (491 liters) Some sources report that the phrase Entire Butt was popularized by Harwood's younger brother Billy (Bubba) Harwood who was overheard to say: "I can't believe I drank the entire butt." Michel, I hope that clears up your confusion. Mark Tumarkin The Brewery in the Jungle Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 10:14:11 -0400 (EDT) From: eric fouch <S=fouch%G=eric%DDA=ID=STC021.efouch%Steelcase-Inc at MCIMAIL.COM> Subject: Spooky Brew Review/Beer Lasers Date: Thursday, 11 September 1997 10:07am ET To: STC012.HOMEBRE3 at STC010.SNADS From: Eric.Fouch at STC001 Subject: Spooky Brew Review/Beer Lasers In-Reply-To: The letter of Wednesday, 10 September 1997 2:41am ET Hey Tom (Fitzpatrick)- " Enter one of our special categories for only $1 : Smashed Pumpkin Award - send us your absolute worst concoction for a special ribbon. All entries must be drinkable! " How well would my "Bottle Bomb Berry Barleywine" be recieved? After 5 mos. in the bottle, three of the 10 bottles of raspberry barleywine were found (sob]) broken. I chilled the rest, and opened one (over the sink). I think it's drinkable, but you gotta be fast. I guess it should really be called: "Bottle Bong Berry Barleywine". Talk about old faithfull] The shotglassfull I was able to salvage tasted pretty darn good. Not bad for my first gusher. I've got one in the freezer for tonight- I hope that 12% and an SG of 1.025 (Before the infection) should keep it from freezing, and the temp should keep it from gushing. If not, my plans for the other bottles is to drill a 1/32" hole in the cap and use the resulting beer laser to cut some rust off the ol' war wagon. I have been following the fruit pastuerization/sanitation thread quite closely these days.... Eric Fouch Bent Dick Bottle Bong Brewery Kentwood, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 10:15:02 -0400 From: dconger at roadshow.com Subject: "Dynasty", "Dallas" and Total Beverage TO: homebrew at hbd.org In a response to a response to a query about the relatively expensive entry fee for Total Beverage's upcoming homebrew competition, Al K. wrote: >Excuse me... some of us have businesses whose purposes *are* to serve and >make peoples' lives better. Turning a profit is necessary to keep the >business going, but not everyone is in it only for the money. Al, although I agree with and admire your philosophy, I think a more cynical, profit-motive viewpoint can safely be attributed to Total Beverage. Total Beverage is owned by Herbert Haft who used to run his retail empire with his son Robert. In the 80's, the Hafts were big players in the "hostile takeover" business. Herbert disowned Robert in a money/power struggle, then put another son, Ronald, in charge. Ronald wasn't enough of a yes-man, so he got disowned after a while. Herbert's wife Gloria then took the sons' side and ended up in a messy divorce. I think at one point the Hafts were on the cover of Kiplinger's and Soap Digest in the same week <g>. Seriously though, I don't think the employees of Total Beverage are donating any of their time to the contest -- they probably expect to paid their usual hourly wage. The Total Beverage contest then, naturally has a higher operating cost than a contest run by a homebrew club, which is staffed by volunteers. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 08:41:55 -0600 (MDT) From: Nathan Moore <moorent at bechtel.Colorado.EDU> Subject: Wyeast 2565 (Kolsch) Does any one have any notes on the succes of this yeast for making a Kolsch, or any other style? Also, does anyone know what exact Hops are used when brewing this syle in Cologne? Nathan Moore Denver, CO Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 10:42:03 -0400 (EDT) From: TheTHP at aol.com Subject: Thermometers/ siphoning Jeremy I have the same worries about thermometers. I think you have to calibrate them every time you use them. In theory humidity and barometric pressure will both have an effect on how dial themometers work. The guys at the brewery calibrate with ice, EVERY time they brew. While a 5 degree won't have THAT much effect on total gravity it will have a BIG effect on the body and fermentability of the beer. My last stout had little body and a thin mouthfeel, hence I called it a porter and people liked it better. This was because I didnt calibrate my thermometer and thus mashed at 150 rather than 155 where I should have been. Calibration: Get out a small adjustable wrench a tall glass of boiling water, and a tall & wide glass full of crushed icecubes and cold water. On the back of the dial there is a nut. The nut is attached to the probe and the red indicator inside the dial. Place the thermometer in a glass allow it to settle in then Hold onto the nut and rotate the dial accordingly. I use 32F for the cold and 211F for just previously boiling. Siphoning: Basically its the pits. I recommend you quit siphoning an break down and buy an easy masher (tm) and install it in your kettle. You can try to build one, if you live in a big city. In Jackson (pop. 60,000) my town, I cant find the correct spigot for the keg sized one i'm trying to put together (HELP?). This method is great, but you need to use at least a half oz of whole hops somewhere other than dry hopping. If you dont the pellet hops will clog the EM and make draining off a PITA. Good luck, *** Dave in Dallas, Sounds like a good explanation to me. If you want to test the theory you could always take it down to 32F dunk it in the neighbors pool, fish it out and plug it in ;) *** Iodine testing Its been interesting reading other techniques for Iodine testing. I'd like a formal discussion of these, If you send me a well written up "method" Ill collect a few and publish them all at once for discussion. Here is what I was taught at a club meeting. Take a white porcelain dish. ( I use an upside down coffee mug Kept in the fridge) and place into it a small sample of mash. Separate out a few bits of grain that have no husk on them and after the sample has cooled to room temp. Place a drop of iodine right on the grain bit. Observe the color change. If it slowly turns brown black, keep going, your not done. If it only stains Iodine color you might be done. Next find a bit that is embedded in a husk and test it. Dont watch the husk just the grain bit. Iodine color=done, black/blue=relax dont worry have another homebrew, rinse the plate really well (iodine is a poison) and do it again 10 or so minutes later... Anybody see anything wrong with this? BTW, I've been told there is no difference (in as far as this testing procedure is concerned) in between the iodine you by in the drugstore and the idophor we use for sanitizing. They can be used inter changeably. Yes? *** Irradiation. I'm really asking for it on this one...but...don't we irradiate our food every day when we place it in the microwave? Couldnt you irradiate your wort or even dry hops in the microwave and kill most of the beasties? *** I have a friend who acquired a co2 tank from a defunct paintball shop. He says the tank is quite full and that the dip tube goes all the way to the bottom the tank so it uses the liquid portion of the co2 to refill paint balls. Since I don't think this is a desirable effect in homebrewing. I told him to build box with a doughnut built in so he could safely mount the co2 tank upside down. Thus the dip tube would be in the gas mix not the liquid mix. Anyone see any problems with this? *** I went to the flagship store for Borders/Walden books last night and was not only impressed by the homebrew selection, but also by the number of names I recognized on the book spines! It seems I've read them all before...I wonder where...Way to go people!!!!! Phil. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 11:07:03 -0400 (EDT) From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: "Dumbing Down" of Craft Brewing The assertion has been made here that the "dumbing-down" of craft beer is a phenomenon with some very basic causes (e.g., $). Mark Silva did an excellent job in #2504 of showing that that is perhaps an oversimplification. I tend to agree. To illustrate, I can point to our local beer economy. El Paso is a Bud Lite on Ice town. Tecate is routinely served with an entire lime's juice dumped into the can. Miller Genuine Draft is considered "dark beer" by some (seriously). Some folks drink Shiner Bock smugly thinking they have in their hands a fine example of traditional German brewing. Our city's brewpub serves a standard lineup of straight-down-the-middle styles: Light Ale, an occasional Raspberry Ale, Amber Ale, Pale Ale, Brown Ale, and the Stout and Porter take turns rounding out the selection. The Light Ale is the biggest seller. All of these beers are nicely done, but certainly are not extreme examples of the respective styles. They have been a successful restaurant since the 1970's and would probably continue to do well with or without the brewpub. But given the local palate, it would make no sense to produce their beers in the envelope-pushing style of certain craft brews from more beer-savvy regions such as the Pacific Northwest. Their brewer has taken a somewhat different tack by presenting beer dinners and microbrew tastings, bringing in micro and craft beer from around the region. While this might at first seem odd, to offer a competitor's beer in such a manner, the goal is to challenge the patron to be more demanding in his.her selection of beers, whether at this brewpub or elsewhere, and hopefully to bring that new taste back to their restaurant for one of their offerings. As the head brewer says, "You wouldn't go to a restaurant and order 'meat' or 'fish', so why order 'beer'?" In the last two years the local demand for better beers has resulted in an explosion of brand presence in local bars, though availability is sometimes variable, as distributorships have often been less than fair in their dealings with the publicans. This is evident by driving a short clip up I-10 into New Mexico, where suddenly even the smallest liquor stores have surprisingly-varied offerings from the Southwest and the Northwest. Tastes up the Rio are apparently more demanding, and I know for a fact that New Mexico liquor distribution laws are much more friendly than those here in Texas. Forty miles north, in Las Cruces, NM, a city of around 50,000, there are three brewpubs, compared to El Paso's one in a city of 600,000. Local tastes can apparently vary drastically over short distances. There is some conjecture that the homebrewing "fad" is on the wane because the healthy supply of local brewpubs makes brewing your own a waste of time. I disagree with this, at least in my case, because I want more than just the local pub's lineup of styles, and also because, well, I just like to brew. But there may be an element of truth here; the person tempted to try homebrewing that lives down the street from a world-class pub is likely to be disappointed in his first hopped-extract kit batch fermented with old Red Star yeast at 80F in the middle of July. I'd venture to say that homebrewing as well as craft and import brews very likely fall into the "fad" category in a demographic like El Paso. I can see this in our club membership as well as in the "beer-friendly" bars. Is "dumbing-down" an evil or a necessity? Both, and neither. It's simply a reaction to local markets. Does America need thousands of microbrew labels distributed nationwide, or does it make more sense to locally provide according to local tastes? We as serious homebrewers have a third option, and so perhaps we can afford to be more critical of the marketplace. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 10:22:32 -0500 From: Todd Ehlers <ehlers at mail.utexas.edu> Subject: Re: Bottle/Keg Alternative--Plastic bottles How about plastic soda bottles. My roommate and I just save all our tonic-water bottles for the purpose of taking beer out to parks where no glass is allowed. There is also a product called the Carbonator, which is basically a cap for a 2 liter soda bottle with a ball lock valve on the top. You can use it to force carbonate the beer after you fill the bottle. The cost $10-12, plus you need a ball lock quick-connect for your CO2. I don't have a Carbonator and my beer stays fresh in the plastic bottle for a day or two, its just not quite as carbonated. Youngs used to distribute their Ram Rod and their Oatmeal Stout in 2-liter bottles. They still may, just not in Texas. tod ehlers liberty at onr.com http://www.onr.com/user/liberty/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 11:10 -0600 From: "BJM (Manbeck, Brad J.)" <BJM at roisysinc.com> Subject: Hop plants / Post harvest questions Well I recently harvested my first hop crop. I made a few mistakes and learned quite a bit about growing your own hops. But now I have a couple of questions and comments. First a comment to any one interested in growing their own. I planted my varieties too close together. This caused two problems. Once the hop plants really started to grow, they intertwined themselves around one another. This hindered the growth and made it difficult to separate once I harvested them. Be sure to plant them at least six feet apart to avoid the above problems. On to my questions. When I harvested, I cut the vines about 4 feet up from the ground and left it laying. My thought is that photosynthesis will continue and provide energy to the roots/rhizomes. Is this necessary or can I cut the vines off at the ground after harvest? Since I planted my varieties too close, I want to move them for next year. Is it better to dig up the rhizomes in the fall or spring to replant them? TIA for any suggestions or comments. Private e-mail is welcomed. Brad Manbeck Programmer / Analyst ROI Systems, Inc. bjm at roisysinc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 97 11:42:19 CDT From: Brian Bliss <brianb at microware.com> Subject: 135F rest / lactic acid / no bottles! On this subject of the 135F protein rest in lieu of a 122F rest. After looking at records of previous batches & tasting them, and making a couple specifcally omitting the 122F rest and using 135F, I'm a beleiver... - -------------- RangerBill at aol.com wrrites: > I am having a hard time getting away from bottleing. There are no clear > choices out on the market that say's "Take me home!". > [party pigs / mini-kegs / ... ] ??? Regardless of the container you use to hold your beer, I highly recommend that you invest in a system that utilizes a large CO2 cylinder & regulator to supply the pressure (i.e. no party pig smack packs). You will find so many other uses for the CO2 setup once you have it: purging kegs & bottles, restarting siphons using one of those orange carboy caps, purging bags for long term storage of hops/grain, couterpressure bottling, and last but not least, serving keg beer at a party, even if you don't have the refrigerator space to keep a full tap system around all the time. This said, you might try attaching some sort of fitting to the party pig or a mini-keg system. They do make 3-gal cornelius kegs that can fit in your regular regrigerator (while possibly sacrificing only a single shelf) - I beleive St. Patrick's has them. As for cost, you should be able to get set up for $150. You'll easily go through that amount in pig smack packs or little 1 oz CO2 cylinders in a couple of years. bb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 14:21:14 -0500 (CDT) From: Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net> Subject: Tailgate; philosophy Greetings to all, and especially to: >From: Greg_T._Smith at notes.pw.com >Subject: Bottle/Keg Alternative? >I am planning a tailgate party in a couple of weeks. I am trying >to figure a way to get some homebrew there, but they do not allow >any bottles or kegs (which they consider to be anything under >pressure, eliminating mini-kegs, Party Pigs, and the like). Is >there any alternative left for me to use? If the restriction is on GLASS bottles -- due to breakage concerns -- bottle some in PET plastic bottles (soda bottles). >From: "John R. Bowen" <jbowen at primary.net> >Subject: Is it a Homebrew? >I have a philosophical conundrum. As an experiment, I am brewing a >prepared wort kit from The Brew House. ...It is >prehopped and preboiled--just add water, salts and yeast. ...Is this a real Homebrew? Sure. It's a weak pre-hopped malt extract. Some extract kits say to not boil, just dilute -- most on HBD say to boil anyway, but someone who doesn't has still brewed at home. You are selecting components, managing the fermentation process (temperature control, sanitation), and priming/bottling. >Certainly I'll drink it and serve it to friends, but is it the sort of >thing that I would want to enter into Homebrewing contests? Can I >take pride in any awards? Pride? Shock perhaps... I seriously doubt that you would win an award with a prehopped extract, weak or normal, but if you do you should be glad and proud. Not as proud as a full-extract brewer, perhaps, but it would reflect well on your materiel selections and your control of the process. Sam Mize - -- Samuel Mize -- smize at imagin.net -- Team Ada Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 20:31:25 -0400 From: "Mark S. Johnston" <msjohnst at talon.net> Subject: Kegging hardware, etc. I've decided to try CP bottle filling. Now all I need is a CP filler. I recall seeing a filler advertised at one time that had springloaded lever operators on the valves. One only had to tap the handles to purge and fill. This seemed like an easier method than having to turn handwheels or knobs to throttle flow. Does anyone know if a filler like this is available, and from where? Also, there have been several postings about the use of SS air stones for force carbonating kegs. Who supplies these? My local shops are high on beginners, but are a bit behind anyone advancing too far in the hobby. Private E-mail is fine. TIA. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 22:21:13 -0400 From: John Rezabek <rezabeks at alpha.wcoil.com> Subject: Driving off chlorine My apologies if this subject has been beaten to death already . . . I've had problems accessing the server (hbd.org ...) that contain the archives. Al K's post citing "driving off chlorine" as one of the virtues of pre-boiling water caused me a little concern. Even in backward and remote Lima, Ohio, the water treatment plant is using chloramines instead of elemental chlorine. It is preferred by water treatment chemists for its greater stability (Wotring, Zymurgy '95 grain issue). Evidently it's so stable that not even boiling will remove it. Activated carbon or carbon-block (see Francis Dunn letter, Zymurgy 97 summer issue) filtration is recommended. While I like plumbing (fire, molten metals) I do not sell filters. "Omni" universal housings go on sale for about $12 US around here. A carbon element (good for 500 gallons) is about $8. While I haven't tried it, the "Omni" housing looks as though it would accomodate any "standard" size element (like the Ametek variety). I heard an estimate that 90 to 95% of municipal water treatment plants are using the chloramine in lieu of elemental chlorine. Best Regards, John Rezabek rezabeks at alpha.wcoil.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 21:47:00 -0400 From: "Capt. Marc Battreall" <batman at reefnet.com> Subject: RE: Efficiency Problem Jeremy wrote: > > Subject: efficiency problem > Question: I use a metal dial thermometer. Could a margin of error of a > few (maybe 5) degrees seriously affect my efficiency? I believe now that > the thermometer is inaccurate. > How do I calibrate it (assuming that I don't have another thermometer)? > I put it in a pot of water on the stove - at the start of the boil, it > read below 212 degrees. Jeremy, Funny you had this problem about the same time I was conducting a thermometer comparison test of my own. I took 5 thermometers, 2 floating glass, 2 solid glass, and a metal probe type which screws into my Polarware 10 gallon brewpot/mash/lautertun. The glass ones all have red fluid inner elements (which I assume to be alcohol). Placed in a pot of water on my stove, I observed the comparative temperatures and the rate at which they were reached. As far as accuracy it seems that all 5 thermometers were within 1 degree of each other thoughout a range between 90-200 degrees F. I did note however, that the Polarware model, as well as the 2 glass floaters, were about 4-5 degrees behind as far as reaching a stabilized temperature. The lag time seemed to be around 2 minutes before they caught up to the solid glass models. This finding helped me understand why my mash temperatures were so hard to get adjusted correctly without over shooting during a recent mashing. From now on, I will use my solid glass model (it looks just like a oversized oral thermometer that we humans use) in order to prevent overshooting a rest temperature because it seemed to react the fastest during my test. That way I will know what my Polarware model (and more importantly my grist!) will eventually settle out at. I usually don't have this problem when using my Igloo cooler infusion masher because it is alot better at holding temps and I don't try to step-mash with it. Anyway, maybe this will help your efficiency a little, as I know it did for me. I know thru experience that temperature control is "paramount" in developing good mash extraction efficiencies. As far as calibrating your thermometer, I guess you could buy a second one to have a comparison. That would be the most economical way. They are only a few dollars. Good Luck, Marc --------------------------------- Capt. Marc D. Battreall batman at reefnet.com \\|// (o o) =========oOO==(_)==OOo=========== Beer is proof that there is a God Ben Franklin Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 20:08:23 -0700 From: The Holders <zymie at writeme.com> Subject: John Palmer It has been brought to my attention that a link on my page referring to John Palmer's excellent information on metallurgy no longer works. Does anyone know if John's pages have been moved, and if so, where? Wayne Holder AKA Zymie Long Beach CA http://andinator.com/zymico Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 97 02:44:29 PDT From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: Jethro on Mark Silva's Comments Mark Silva On Dumbing Down.... Mark's comments are kind, but I know he has been working too hard, when he says.... >we found great brewers in Topeka and Kansas City (Golden >Tiger had a killer Russian Imperial and Boulevard has earned 10% of the >market there with great beer). I know he meant to say Blind Tiger in Topeka....their Head Brewer at the time, Kevin Eichelberger, made indeed, a killer Russian.....Kevin has since gone on to a better position, that of assistant brewer at Free State in Lawrence.... And that says a lot about Free State, that an accomplished Head Brewer would consider it a move up to become an assistant elsewhere... And of course, Bill Cherry, Head Brewer of Boulevard, trained in a post grad degree at UC Davis, easily the most knowledgeable brewer I know. he also has a great owner in John MacDonald, (Yes, Virginia, there are GREAT places to work in brewing!) JG Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 06:13:01 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <tumarkin at mindspring.com> Subject: A Style Question Hi all: I recently brewed a highly hopped porter that turned out excellent, IMHO. I want to enter it in a competition to see what kind of response it gets. In looking at the AHA Style guide, I find the following: >Robust Porter - >Hop bitterness is medium to high, with hop aroma and flavor ranging from >negligible to medium. >Brown Porter - >Low to medium malt sweetness is acceptable along with medium hop bitterness. >This is a light- to medium-bodied beer. Hop flavor and aroma may vary from >being negligible to medium in character. Basically, I feel my beer is more of a robust porter as far as malt and body qualities. The hop bitternes is high - which is fine. The problem is that the style guide calls for hop aroma and flavor to be negligible to medium - while mine is delightfully high. Since there isn't an 'American Porter' catagory, what do style should I enter this under? Someone suggested the Specialty catagory. I'd appreciate any input. Mark Tumarkin The Brewery in the Jungle Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 9:08:00 -0400 From: Bob.Sutton at fluordaniel.com Subject: TID: Is it a Homebrew? I have a philosophical conundrum. As an experiment, I purchased a six pack of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale at my local homebrew supply. When I got home, I soaked the bottles in tepid water until the labels came off and then affixed some home made labels I designed. I then quickly removed the bottle caps and replaced them using caps I bought from my supplier. If I had a keg setup, I would have poured then carefully into the CO2 purged keg. What could be simpler? Is this a real Homebrew? Yes, I'm drinking it at home, and ... Bob Fruit Fly Brewhaus Yesterdays' Technology Today Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 08:24:54 -0500 From: Gary Krone <gkrone at inconsys.com> Subject: Re: Fwd: Rob Moline and the Little Apple Debacle (Brewboy1) >Before I begin, let me apologize for the amount of bandwith this post may >take. ... >Mr. Kimbrough has actually invited each and everyone of us to ask questions >about this beer. Personally, I should thank him for extending the invitation >by taking him up on the offer, yet I think I already spoiled any chances with >my first email. So, my suggestion to the entire HDB is to come up with some >questions for Mr. Kimbrough since he has so graciously offered this recipe to >the world. I should prompt those of you interested in this line of >questioning to keep it simple since he he did say "this is not my recipe, so >I can't answer questions which are too specific about it, but I will try to >help you with it if I can." Once again, the address is bkkimbro at aol.com > >I have been giving this issue much thought and I believe some of the most >appropriate questions might be along the following lines: > >1.) What is a Barleywine? >2.) Why is it called Barleywine? >3.) What color is the Barleywine? >4.) How's it taste? > >My guess is we can all unite on this issue and help the Jethro cause once >again. > >I have borrowed enough bandwith for now, >Please, do what you feel is right, but at the very least send Rob some >support. Why don't we get Mr. Moline's input onb what should be done. It's not often that that victim gets to choose the punishment. What do you say Rob? Gary Krone gkrone at inconsystems.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 09:55:37 -0400 From: Junius Adams <AdamsJ at gwgate.nhlbi.nih.gov> Subject: The Definitive Butt Treatment (not Preparation H) The discussion of butts has convinced me we need the metric system badly. In any event, I hope the following clarifes the issue: Noggin (Brit.) - 0.03125 gal (Brit.) - .1420652 L Pottle (Brit.) - 0.5 gal (Brit.) - 2.272980 L Bucket (Brit.) - 4 gal (Brit.) - 18.18435 L Firkin (Brit.) - 9 gal (Brit.) - 40.91364 L Firkin (Brit.) - 1.200949 Firkins (US) Firkin (US) - 9 gal (US) - 34.06775 L Kilderkin (Brit.) - 18 gal (Brit.) - 81.82957 L Hogshead - 52.458506 gal (Brit.) - 63 gal (US) - 238.47427 L Puncheon (Brit.) - 69.94467 gal (Brit.) - 84 gal (US) - 317.97510 L Butt (Brit.) - 104.9170122 gal (Brit.) - 126 gal (US) - 476.9619 L Tun - 209.8340244 gal (Brit.) - 252 gal (US) - 953.9237736 L Barring any typographical errors, this should be correct. The data came from The Handbook of Chemistry and Physics. Cheers! Jay Adams Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 09:07:20 -0500 From: kpeetz at actt.engr.uark.edu (Kent Peetz) Subject: Exploding Carboys Can you say hops on the ceiling? Ok, so there are no revelations about acids, alphas, or other technical stuff here but maybe someone will get a laugh. I made my first batch using a 5gal carboy as a primary this week. I have previously used a 6gal bucket or 6gal carboy that belonged to a friend. Since I had heard so much about blow-off tubes, I thought it sould be no problem. I used my long plastic siphon tube and some clear hose run into a gallon jug full of bleach water. I came home on the second day to find my batch of brew bubbling slowly away in the back bathroom bathtub. I wondered why it had hop and foam residue around the top of the carboy like it had really taken off but was now going at such a slow rate. As I was changing clothes in the next room I found out why. I heard a POP and went to see what it was. The stopper had blown out of the carboy and foam was shooting out the carboy about 2 inches high and running all over the place. I panicked. I put the stopper back in and noticed the tube looked clogged. As I reached over to inspect the tube, the stopper blew back out with considerable force. Hops and foam on the ceiling, on the walls, in my hair, up my nose, and worst of all, all over the clothes my wife had cleaned and pressed that were waiting to go to the consignment shop! I guess I should strain the hops out before using a 5gal carboy as a primary. For other novices out there, USE LARGE BLOW OFF TUBES AND CHECK THEM OFTEN! - -- Brewing in the dog house. Kent Peetz kpeetz at actt.engr.uark.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 10:06:23 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: cooler yield/PBW/2-row vs. 6-row >>>>> "Al" == Al Korzonas <korz at XNET.COM> writes: with respect to PBW film formation: Al> If you use an acid-based sanitizer (like one of the Iodophors Al> *with* phosphoric acid -- no, not all have the phosphoric acid Al> added -- or peracetic acid) you can soak for weeks... the acid Al> will take the calcium carbonate off in a flash. So, if you follow the practice recommended by Five Star of washing with PBW and sanitizing with StarSan, you're in good shape. This is what you get in their "homebrewers" kit. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 10:05:09 -0400 (EDT) From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Grain Volume Goof / Dry Yeast Anonymous I wrote: "Another thing to tuck away for reference is that crushed grain will occupy about 0.8 gal/lb when mixed with mash water. That should help you determine whether your mash tun has enough capacity for the amount of grain & water you need." This should be *0.08 gal / lb*. Big difference. ***** I'll chime in, in agreement with Jethro, that Lallemand dry yeasts are a fine addition to the homebrewer's arsenal. Sold by HB suppliers everywhere under the Danstar label, they have four readily-available yeasts with various properties. I've used Nottingham twice, and the beer turned out nicely with none of the goofies often associated with dry yeast. If nothing else, keeping a few packs around "for emergencies" or even for "impulse brewing" makes sense at 75 cents a pack. Check out the info at http://www.lallemand.com/ ***** Ian WIlson asks about sparge water: In designing a recipe, I determine the following: Grain bill weight 16lbs Final Volume 9 gallons Total volume of water based on Ray Daniels work sheet from "Designing Great Beers" 16 gallons Mash in at 1.33 gal/lb 5.3 gal Of the remaining 10.7 gallons of water to put 9 gallons in the fermenter, how much of this should be assigned to sparge volume? Obviously, sparging with 10.7 gallons is rediculous. An oft-quoted rule of thumb is to sparge with the same amount of water as was used to mash. This seems to work out for me in practice; for a 10-lb grain bill I'd mash with 3.3 gal water and I end up with 6-1/2 gal in the boiler. What isn't obvious perhaps is the water left in the mashtun. If the goal is to keep the liquid level in the mashtun above the grain, then obviously there is a lot of water left over. This third fraction of water is still "needed", but ends up as "waste" and doesn't make it to your brew. So if you mash in with X gallons, which as a rule of thumb is half the total sparged volume (another X), and after sparging you leave the mashtun as full as when you mashed (a third X), you have a total volume water requirement of about three times your mash volume. At 1.33 qt/lb this translates to 1.33 qt x 3 = 4 qt = 1 gal / lb total need. In your case, you mashed in with 5.3 gal; 5.3 x 3 is pretty darn close to 16. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
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