HOMEBREW Digest #2671 Thu 26 March 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  RIMS electric element and rice hulls (Duarte George M NUWCDIVNPT)
  pack man (Lewis Good)
  Even Mash Temp ("Dana H. Edgell")
  pizza pan use (Mike Spinelli)
  NY City Spring Regional Comp. Results (kbjohns)
  Sierra Nevada/Ringwood Yeast ("Shawn Andrews")
  Bob's RIMS Qs (Kyle Druey)
  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  Breiss Malt (Charles Hudak)
  Rice and Amylase Enzyme (Golgothus)
  Braggot Aging and Dry Hopping (Golgothus)
  mudbugs (MADwand)
  Freezer Thermostat/Timer Question (Jon Bovard)
  HBD (oberlbk)
  Malting ("J.Kish")
  Carbohydrates in beer (MacRae Kevin J)
  Re: Rolling Rock (second try) (Tim Holland)
  Offensive behavior (Bill Giffin)
  malt  specs, apology (Jim Liddil)
  RE: Silicone Tubing / Misc Qs / No Hands Electric HLT (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Joke ("David R. Burley")
  Scratched glass?? (Dan Morley)
  Help....hop tea haze!!?? (Dan Morley)
  Reconditioning Stainless Kegs (John Palmer)
  RIMS pumps (John Wilkinson)
  MixMasher observations (Alex Santic)
  More politics: Do you want to get arrested after 2 beers? (George_De_Piro)
  Beeston Marris Otter Pale Ale (Tim Martin)
  Munich Dark (Al Korzonas)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 15:50:30 -0500 From: Duarte George M NUWCDIVNPT <DuarteGM at code83.npt.nuwc.navy.mil> Subject: RIMS electric element and rice hulls Hello fellow Brewers, I'm seeking some advise on a couple of topics First on the choice of an Electric Rims Element. I currently do mostly single infusions with a cooler and slotted copper manifold. But I'm looking to add an electric element so in those cases where my infusion hits a bit low, I can recirculate and heat until my saccrification temp is reached. I currently have a couple of 3000 watt 240 volt elements which look like they are copper and about 40 inches in total length. Can I use these for heating the wort? I have quite a bit of copper in the system already and expect the temperature of the element will not be much higher than the wort temp. Will it leach out additional copper or are these elements O.K.? Secondly, I'm also looking for a source for rice hulls. I'd like to use these for brewing an all wheat beer as well as a corn and quinoa beer. I've checked all my local HB suppliers and health food stores with no luck so far. Any help will be appreciated. thanks in advance George Duarte duarte at code83.npt.nuwc.navy.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 16:00:28 -0500 (EST) From: Lewis Good <winenbru at icanect.net> Subject: pack man I have a culture from rogue shakesphere stout what is it? and more important where is it from? is this the pack man yeast? I will be using it soon! and will see if it compares to any other yeast in my collection. - --------------------------------------------- Lewis Good Wine & brew By you INC. Serving South Florida Since 1969 5760 bird road Miami FL. 33155 ph# (305)666-5757 Fax#(305)667-4266 Email winenbru at icanect,net web site http://www.icanect.net/winenbru/ - --------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 13:19:52 -0800 From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell at quantum-net.com> Subject: Even Mash Temp HBD Collective, I've been thinking lately (always dangerous) about evening out my mash temperature (without manual stirring). I currently can't afford a pump for a RIMS (other brewing stuff at the front of the queue). I submit 2 ideas for your comments. 1) Old ice cream motor/MixMasher thing. I have one of these motors but I am not sure about the stirring blade design that would be best. An article in BT made a big deal about a toroidal convection pattern with a complicated blade design. couldn't you get this by a small fan pushing the mash down in the middle. It would have to come up along the sides = toroidal pattern. 2) copper pipes. Has anyone ever tried simply inserting some thin copper pipes into the middle of the mash? I would think the high heat conduction of the copper would spread the heat around the mash. The only downside of this I can see is the possibility of increased channeling along the pipes. This could be solved by a) not sticking the pipes all the way down (kinda ruins the point) b) removing the pipes at mashout or c) coming up with a fancy horizontal pipe matrix. I would appreciate any comments on the above, especially the second idea. It is very attractive because of its simplicity. Thanks, Dana Edgell - ------------------------------------------------------------------ Dana Edgell edgell at quantum-net.com 3101 Cowley Way #176 http://www.quantum-net.com/edge_ale San Diego, CA 92117 (619) 276-7644 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 98 16:58:05 est From: paa3983 at dscp.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) Subject: pizza pan use HBDers, Ira in #2668 asked how to use the inverted pizza pan as a hop filter. Basically, I've been using one of those aluminum 12" jobs that has perf. holes all thru it. 6 bucks at K-mart. My boil and sparge tanks are about 24" in diam. I have a threaded coupling welded a couple inches from the bottom of the tank. Inside the tank I have a comprssion type fitting inside the coupling. A 1/2" OD SS "J" tube (J because that's the way it's shaped) fits into the compression fitting and goes to the center of the tank. The bend in the tube is pointed downward where it fits into a drilled out !/2" hole in the center of the pizze pan. The pan works because my tank is flat on the bottom and so is the pan when it's inverted. I believe it would only work with leaf. hops. If you can find a pizza pan that fits into a sanke keg, I'd bet it would work there too. As long as you have a snug fit around the edges of the pan, it should work. BTW, I checked K-mart for SS pans as one poster suggested, but didn't see any. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:05:27 -0500 From: kbjohns at peakaccess.net Subject: NY City Spring Regional Comp. Results New York City Spring Regional Homebrew Competition Results Sunday, March 22, 1998 Statistics Total entries were 326 34 judges participated (1 Master, 5 National, 13 certified, 11 recognized 4 apprentice) HOSI members had 128 entries (GOBSI 77 of them) 7 other clubs had members participate Entries came from 10 states including CA TX FL MI and neighboring states. $1,800.00 in prizes were given in 18 categories The competition was filmed for airing on Japanese National TV The following business' were generous enough to support our efforts. Please express your gratitude by purchasing their products or by visiting their establishments. HOMEBREW SUPPLIERS Precision Brewing Systems, Staten Island NY 718-667-4459 U-Brew Co. Millburn NJ 973-376-0973 Hop & Vine Morristown, NJ 800-414-2739 Crosby & Baker Ltd. Westport Ma Schmidling Productions, Brewing Techniques Magazine, Northwestern Extract Co. BeerCrafters, Turnersville, Wyeast Laboratories, Mt. Hood OR. American Homebrewers Asscot Uncle Zack's Beer Bread Mixes Breiss Malting Co. PUBS & RESTAURANTS Maggie's Restaurant New York City DBA's, New York City Manchester Restaurant, New York City Times Square Brewing, New York City Chelsea Brewing Co, New York City Park Slope Brewing, Brooklyn BEER BREWERS & DISTRIBUTORS Willowbrook Distributors, Staten Island, NY Old World Brewing Co. Malt Advocate Craft Brewers, Brooklyn, NY Brewery Ommegang, Cooperstown, NY: Tee Shirt Best of Show, Ken Johnsen, N. German Pils 1st Runner Up, Tom Murray Cream Ale 2nd Runner Up, Jim Wagner, Smoked Scotch Ale A complete list of entrants (entry #) and winners can be found at URL http://www.wp.com/hosi/ Thanks to eveeryone who helped make this a very successfull competition. Ken Johnsen Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:27:10 -0600 From: "Shawn Andrews" <sabrewer at fgi.net> Subject: Sierra Nevada/Ringwood Yeast Hello all. Does anyone have a good Sierra Nevada Pale Clone? I've gotten very close, but can't say I've nailed it with the Perle/Cascade combo. Anyone know what kind of malt they use? I don't think it's American, but I could be wrong. Anyone know for sure? On to the Ringwood thread. I've been using "Yeast Labs" English Ale. I was told by several people from this digest that this is the Ringwood strain. I believe G. Fix said this in A.O.B.T. The first time I used this yeast it formed a nasty looking head, and formed large gnarley looking colonies. The next time I used a different vial, but with the same expir. date. I brewed ESB both times. The second vial didn't flocculate very much and reminded me more of Wyeast 1056 Amer. Ale. The yeast on the bottom was remarkably free of trub, so it was used, from the primary, on a batch of W.Coast Amber. This batch went nuts on flocculation and top-cropping, exactly like the first vial. The 2nd batch carbonated very well and the yeast was tightly packed on the bottom of the bottle. The 1st and 3rd batches' yeast became easily disturbed about halfway through a 12 oz. bottle. The result: VERY chunky beer. I was also warned of major diacetyl with this strain. I didn't experience that at all. Instead I have a cornucopia of fruity esters! This reminds me more of the Whitbread yeast than anything. I don't care for the strain "Yeast Labs" English Ale. The main reason I don't use Whitbread is the fruitiness overwhelms everything else. Can someone clarify and reiterate "YL" Eng. ale is Ringwood or Whitbread? Private e-mail fine TIA, Shawn Andrews Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 21:15:29 -0800 From: Kyle Druey <druey at ibm.net> Subject: Bob's RIMS Qs HBDers, Here is another perspective on Dion's answers to Bob's RIMS questions: > False bottom $30 If you make 5 gallon batches or smaller, you can use my EzRIMSer style false bottom. This is an improved version of the trademarked tubular false bottom used in kettle mashing. It is just a 6" length of 1/2" soft copper tubing that is slotted and covered with a stainless mesh sheath on the outside. You can make this thing for about $5. It may work for volumes larger than 5 gallons, but I have not tried this. >I would not use an epoxied copper heater chamber for very long, first >because I would not trust it to not leak, and second, I don't trust >epoxy in contact with my wort. The epoxy I use is specifically made for copper pipe that is used in water service. It is nontoxic and rated for 100 psi at 200 F, probably strong enough for mashing :). It is so easy to use that I can't believe I ever attempted soldering. So far so good after 5 batches now. >This setup also makes the assumption that you have no automatic >temperature control, but use a switch and manually turn the heater on >and off. A PID temp controller and solid state relay can be added for >under $200. Or you can use a $20 dimmer switch which is what I would call pseudo-automated, is this now pRIMS? The mash can be left untouched after adjusting the dimmer dial when the correct set temp is reached. The dimmer gets little press, but it is an excellent way to control the heat output to your RIMS. >Buying an $8 water heater element from the home improvement store is not >a good substitute for spending $30 on a low density Incaloy element, it >will scorch and leach heavy metals into your wort. Lots of folks are using the low watt density elements that are copper plated with tin, you know, the ones you can buy for $10 at Home Depot. The tin will leach into your wort, but this will not negatively impact your beer and is non toxic in the small quatities we are dealing with. I know that the Gadget Guru (Ken S) uses these types of elements and reports no scorching problems, or haze problems from the tin. I would visit C.D.'s home page for getting some original ideas on how to build RIMS and other beer gadgets. Not trying to undermine Dion but just looking for solutions a little differently. Dion was my pedagogue when I built my original RIMS, he definetily is the RIMS Doctor. Kyle Druey Bakersfield, CA Still waiting for Al K to post the URL for his list of corrections on contraversial homebrewing techniques here on the HBD... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 22:33:57 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report Malt Analysis via The Web... I have been aware for some time, of the need for accurate and up to date malt analysis being accessible to buyers of the same...and in previous lives, had lobbied maltsters to set up web pages that would include the same info that commercial brewers had access to..... Recent input from the HBD of downright damnable hurdles to this....(Lord knows that it hurts to read of the prob's that the blokes in OZ have had)........ I am now rewarded in that long overdue pursuit, as I have been informed that within weeks, Schreier Maltings will have such a page up and running, making it easier for both commercial and homebrewing buyers of that malt to acquire the info they need.... Expect to be able to access both Schreier and DWC offerings...and one would hope, in short order, other maltsters to follow their lead...... Predicted here first, in the Jethro Gump Report...... The fact is, that as a head brewer in the past (granted for small brewpubs, that really didn't buy much....maybe only 50K lbs per year) in the past, buying from multiple suppliers, I always had to 'request' an analysis....and was often supplied with a "Typical" analysis....one that may not accurately reflect the malt I had here in my hands.....I felt that it was a PITA to have to call and request this info...and then wait for it to arrive.... Let's indeed hope that this leads to all maltsters following Schreier's lead,,,and that homebrew shops will then provide buyers with the lot numbers they need .....(this will probably be the biggest challenge....) Jethro Gump Rob Moline Court Avenue Brewing Company, Des Moines, Iowa. brewer at ames.net "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 1998 23:38:29 -0800 From: Charles Hudak <cwhudak at gemini.adnc.com> Subject: Breiss Malt Rick writes: >Is any one using Breiss 2 row brewers malt for Pale Ale? >If so how do you like it? We use Breiss exclusively in the pub--I wouldn't make that choice but it's not mine to make. Their products are good for the most part but I have the following qualms: 1) They use six row barley for all of their specialty malts: munich, vienna, chocolate, black and all grades of crystal. Though they have recently started offering two-row versions of some of these, it is not the norm and not all malts are available in two-row. 2) They use a very high protein barley for their two-row malt. It averages about 13+%, several points higher than the optimum specified by DeClerck of 9-11%. This contributes to haze problems and a large quantity of break material. That said, with the exception of a fair amount of chaff (twiggs, sticks and such) in some of the last couple of lots that I've gotten, the malts are OK, though not of exceptional character. For a base 2-row malt for a pale ale or most other ales, it is an acceptable product. They are also now making a "Pale Ale Malt" which is more highly kilned and offers some more toasty flavors than their regular 2-row. I've tried it and I like it a little better. C-- Charles Hudak in San Diego, California (Living large in Ocean Beach!!) cwhudak at adnc.com ICQ# 4253902 "If God had intended for us to drink beer, he would have given us stomachs." - --David Daye Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 04:34:47 EST From: Golgothus <Golgothus at aol.com> Subject: Rice and Amylase Enzyme Hello All, Quick Question concerning the rice thread. I am interested in trying to brew a sake and was wondering if anyone knows if adding Amylase Enzyme instead of malt grains would produce the desired "magical transformation" to a fermentable substance? I know that true sake is brewed using "koji" but this seemingly mythical substance is harder to find than a sober Irishman (BTW, I am Irish by descent 8 ) ). Would this work as an "all grain" style mash if I added 1 to 2 tsp. before I began the mash process? Help a newbie out ... or point me to a place that I can find the info if you are able. I have the enzyme but need to know how to use it to its fullest potential. Also, any ideas on what type of yeast to use would be helpful if anyone has any ideas. Many thanx. Michael Whitt Brewster and general know-it-all Bragi's Brewery Mobile, Al Golgothus at aol.com "He who lives by the skull, will die by the skull." Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 04:34:59 EST From: Golgothus <Golgothus at aol.com> Subject: Braggot Aging and Dry Hopping Hello All, I am new to the HBD and this is my first post. I have been brewing beer and mead for the last few years and have had some small success. I have a general question regarding my latest brew, an all extract Braggot. The recipe is as follows: 3 lb 5 oz Munton's Old Ale Kit Color EBC 27-33 Bitterness EBU 45-55 3.3 lb Munton's Extra Light Malt Extract Color EBC Max. 7 Bitterness EBU 0 (Unhopped) 6 lbs. Raw-Wild Pure Honey Deep Amber Color 1 packet Munton's Ale Yeast (included in Old Ale Kit) OG: ~ 1078 FG: ~ 1016 Approximate alcohol is 8.5%. My question is concerning the bottle conditioning of this Braggot. How long should this brew be aged before it is fully carbonated and mellowed enough to enjoy? I usually age my beers 14 days before drinking, but the Old Ale and Braggot styles are new to me. The kit suggests 4 weeks, and I am inclined to agree, as this is a bitter beer that could use some aging, but if anyone with experience in either of these styles has any info (general to the style or specific to the aging question) it would be greatly appreciated. I would also like information on dry hopping. What flavors does this impart to a beer and how does this effect bitterness of boiled hops? Again, all information is appreciated, as I am looking to improve my brewing in general and control of "hoppiness" is one of the places that I am lacking experience. A final request to all Brewmeisters out there... I am interested in all forms of brewing, and any recipes for unusual beers/brews would be appreciated. I know of a few such as chicha and kvass, but all experimental brews and alcoholic drinks fascinates me (though I am NOT brave enough to try the "Cock Ale" recipe). I would like to experiment with any forms of brewing and styles that are out there, so pull out grandpa Jed's old beer recipes and send them on to me ... thanx in advance for your help. I plan to move up to all grain soon, so all recipes are welcome. Michael Whitt Brewster and general know-it-all Bragi's Brewery Mobile, Al Golgotus at aol.com He who lives by the Skull will die by the Skull. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 11:56:36 GMT From: MADwand at earthling.net (MADwand) Subject: mudbugs some yankee recently said he had crawfish at one time and didn't like them because of the muddy taste and he thought perhaps the pristine waters of the lower Mississippi made them cleaner. That is not at all correct. THEY LIVE IN THE MUD. if you're gonna eat crawfish, you must clean them in a large washtub by soaking/rinsing in clean water several times. Some people even add salt to the water to get them to purge themselves into the water. I have tasted muddy crawfish here in S. La. but it was because they weren't rinsed properly. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 20:19:35 +1000 (EST) From: Jon Bovard <j.bovard at student.qut.edu.au> Subject: Freezer Thermostat/Timer Question This Q. goes out to all of those with adapted freezers. I recently bough a 211litre chest freezer second hand for 100 bucks. It is of some unknown brand and is probably made in a country that doesnt exist any more. Naturally it freezes beer at the moment instead of cooling it. This makes it hard to drink.... I therefore am in the process of changing this by either a) replacing the freezer thermostat with a fridge thermostat or b) putting the on/off power on a timer. Refridgeration mechanics I have spoken to all tell me that putting a freezer on a thermostat from a fridge is "bad for" or "overloads" the compressor. Is this true? Does anyone know if putting it on an on/off timer with pre-set on and off settings will be bad too? Any feedback much appreciated. Jon Bovard Brisbane Australia. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 06:50:41 -0500 From: oberlbk at NU.COM Subject: HBD In HBD #2670, somebody (unsigned) wrote: "Does anyone use One Step cleaner/sanitizer or Oxine and can post back results of effectiveness?" I began using One Step sanitizer about 2 years ago. The first time that I used it was the first time I had a batch that went bad. I switched back to bleach and everything was ok. Once again I fell for the One Step sanitizer and found that I had 3 batches in a row go bad. I called a different homebrew store and found that they had discontinued selling it because of customer complaints from bad batches. I have since switch to FiveStar's Star San. This stuff is great. Two minute contact time and no rinse. They are also very good at answering any questions that you may have. They have a web site, which I do no know the address for, and it is pretty helpful. Since I am rambling, I have a question for people using iodine as a sanitizer. I have read multiple times that you should rinse iodine using boiling water. Boiling water itself will sanitize equipment, so what is the point of involving the iodine. Brent Oberlin oberlkb at nu.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 05:00:28 -0800 From: "J.Kish" <jjkish at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Malting George De Piro, I saw your posting about Home Malting of barley. I thought about that a year ago; asked around, did some fancy telephoning. I located an outfit called "Oregon Barley Association" and these are the big boys, You have to order many tons of barley before they will talk to you. Then, I tried contacting growers. Nobody grows beverage barley in this state, only feed barley. So, I got a bag to try it out. On a scale of 1 through 10, feed barley is 2. Low quality, it must lack something , maybe starch, etc. Not worth all the trouble you have to go through to get finished malt. I sure hope you can locate some great raw malting barley, like Moravian, and let us know if you succeed. Good Luck. Joe Kish jjkish at worldnet.att.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 08:21:24 -0500 From: MacRae Kevin J <kmacrae at UF2269P01.PeachtreeCityGA.NCR.COM> Subject: Carbohydrates in beer Does anyone have an idea of the carbs in beer? I'm not too interested in the calories, just the carbs. I guess the style would matter. I mostly drink German Pils and English Milds and Browns with an occasional porter and stout. All grain recipes, if that would matter. Does anyone have the breakdown, by gallons, on how to classify the mega all the way down to pico & lower brew houses? Thanks for any help. Replies to: Kevin.MacRae at PeachtreeCityGA.NCR.COM Kevin MacRae Owner, operator, CEO/CIO/CFO, head brewer, and janitor of Fluffhead brewery formerly "the porch" and before that it was known as "all that brewing at %$!& all over my kitchen!" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 08:03:41 -0700 From: Tim Holland <tim at mbmgsun.mtech.edu> Subject: Re: Rolling Rock (second try) >From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> >Subject: Re: Rolling Rock (second try) > > >Your "gluttonous mess" resulted from >the incorrect use of rice. It and corn need to be first mashed with some >of the malt (about 3:1 adjunct:malt), then boiled for some time (30-75 >minutes), then added to the main mash. I used to do this, but found that if I used rice at 30% of the grain bill or less, I could just add it to the grist at the beginning. This assumes that the rice is thoroughly gelatinized by boiling. I use this "soup" to reach my strike temperature and stir it thoroughly. Do you add crystal malt to your grist? I found that it helps with the malt nose, but not so much with body. I don't like the flavors it imparts to pilsners. Then again, all of the "store bought" American beer I've tried has very little body or flavor. :-) ========================== Tim Holland Tim at mbmgsun.mtech.edu Butte, Montana ========================== Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 10:21:08 -0500 From: Bill Giffin <billg at ctel.net> Subject: Offensive behavior Gentlemen, Included in the list of winners in the 1998 Boston Homebrew Competition was the following: "3) Thomas J O'Connor III MD and Satan, Rockport ME (MALT), Export 80" Tom O'Connor didn't include the "and Satan" on his forms and was greatly hurt by the offensive behavior of the Boston Wort Processors and the Boston Homebrew Competition. Tom, who has won the New England Homebrewer of the Year for the past three years, was the only one of the winners to be singled out with an offensive addition to their name as a winner. Tom has had a number of the members of the Wort Processors in his home as his guests when they have come to Maine to judge. Tom's only offense as I see it is that the Boston Wort Processors couldn't beat him for Homebrewer of the Year. Tom has contributed by judging at as many competitions as his busy schedule allows. I feel that the Boston Homebrew Competition and the Boston Wort Processors should publicly apologize to Tom O'Connor as well as in writing. I also feel that the condemnation of the B.J.C.P. the AHA and the homebrewing community should fall upon the Boston Wort Processors. Bill Giffin Past-President Maine Ale and Lager Tasters (M.A..LT) Richmond, Maine Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 08:44:09 +0000 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at azcc.arizona.edu> Subject: malt specs, apology I misspoke when I said the spec sheet was largley blank for the st pats czech malt. The spec sheet I orignally got did not have much of the bottom half information the one on their web site has. My mistake. I still wonder what the DP is though. Also I have had nothing but good results in limited testing of this malt. And as always St Pat's service is prompt and courteous. WRT to sour guiness I suggest folks look at the table in the middle of Stout by Lewis and look at the lactic acid levels. I don't have th book here, but recall the level is pretty high for a couple of beers. As far as brett in guiness, all I can say is that a number of seminal papers on bretttanomyces have been published by the folks at St James. I have a number of historically interesting papers on this subject and the effects of aging in wood. Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 10:06:46 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: Silicone Tubing / Misc Qs / No Hands Electric HLT >The water level inside the 6.5 gallon bucket is easily seen from >the outside, thus obviating the need for a sight gauge. The no hands >electric HLT is a piece of equipment that is easy to make, fairly >inexpensive, and highly recommended. Extract, partial grain, or hot >water infusion all grainers could use this piece of equipment. This >would be a good "rookie" project to complete before making your RIMS so >as to minimize those RIMS lessons learned. Better yet, if you can get a hold of a 15 gallon blue plastic drum (the kind liquid malt extract comes in), it is factory marked on the outside for gallons and nicely subdivided with markings. Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 11:06:13 -0500 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Joke Connie, > USA, Palo Alto, CA (AP) -- "Yesterday scientists revealed that beer > contains small traces of female hormones. To prove their theory, > the scientists fed 100 men 12 pints of beer and observed that 100% of > them gained weight, talked excessively without making sense, became > emotional, and couldn't drive. No further testing is planned." Just a note from the Home Brewers Digest - last bastion of Masculinity that the liberals have trouble shutting off. {8^) Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 09:08:59 -0700 From: Dan Morley <morleyd at cadvision.com> Subject: Scratched glass?? Last fall I decided that I would switch from plastic to glass primaries. I am using 6 gal. Carboys as my primary fermentors with a blow off system. This is working fine except that I have found that it is much more difficult to clean a carboy than a plastic pale. Usually I fill the carboy with a weak bleach solution and let this sit until all the crude comes off the glass. The last batch I did had way more crude than usual and the regular soak was not working. I decided to use my bottle brush to loosen the rest of it. The only bottle brush that I have has a short handle and I could not reach all the crude. SO....I thought no problem...and I attached the bottle brush to my long plastic spoon using wire. WELL....after I had cleaned all the crude from inside the carboy, I noticed that there was small but visible scratches all around the inside of the carboy......ARGG....the scratches seem to have come from the ends of the wire that I used to attach the bottle brush. I never imagined that glass would scratch so easily. I would assume that this carboy is unsafe to use although I would like to hear some opinions from some of you. Also, what methods of cleaning do people use for cleaning major crude from glass primary fermentors?? Since this happened, I have purchased a long handled bottle brush to prevent this from happening again. Thanks Dan Morley Calgary, AB. Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 09:10:21 -0700 From: Dan Morley <morleyd at cadvision.com> Subject: Help....hop tea haze!!?? arrggg....I put a haze in my beer!!! I just recently bottled an APA and I wanted to add some more hop aroma. I made up my usual water & corn sugar solution for priming and I boiled this for 15 minutes. I then let this cool to about 160 deg. and added 1/2 ounce of fresh cascade leaf hops. I let this steep for 20 minutes, strained it through a sanitized strainer into my bottle bucket and bottled as usual. This beer was very clear before bottling but after doing this there is a slight haze in it now (at room temp). This beer has been bottled 10 days now and there is no sign of the haze dropping!! Has anyone ever used this method and has this ever happend to you!! The beer does have a very nice hop aroma but I find the haze anoying. Thanks Dan Morley Calgary, AB. Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 09:03:54 -0800 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Reconditioning Stainless Kegs Steven Jones asks how to remove some rust from a weld in a Sankey keg and "season" for re-service. Easy. Thoroughly scour the rust away using an oxalic acid based cleanser such as Kleen King, Revereware or Bar Keepers Friend using a green scrubby (ie. Scotchbrite). Do NOT use steel wool, it will only cause more rust. Once you have the rust cleaned away, rinse the area thoroughly with fresh water and dry it with a paper towel or something. Then let it sit for a week or two. It will repassivate itself and you will be good to go. John jjpalmer at gte.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 98 11:03:16 CST From: jwilkins at wss.dsccc.com (John Wilkinson) Subject: RIMS pumps Surplus Center has a Little Giant magnetic drive pump with bronze pump body and Ryton impellers rated at 3 GPM and max liquid temp. of 212F. Their price is US$99.95. This sounds like an appropriate pump for a RIMS application and about the price I have heard mentioned for such a pump. Is this a good one at this price or is there something better available elsewhere? Thanks, John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins at wss.dsccc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 12:24:35 -0500 From: Alex Santic <alex at brainlink.com> Subject: MixMasher observations As an urban entrepreneur and apartment-dweller, I've found kettle mashing to be an ideal all-grain technique. With two closets already sacrificed to equipment and ingredients, and two fermentation fridges in my entrance area, kettle mashing cuts down on equipment space and maximizes the usefulness of my facilities. Jack Schmidling's MixMasher seemed to be an ideal enhancement to my system, although limited time and facilities made it unfeasible to build it myself. Hence my gratitude to Ken Schwartz, whose love of brewing and gadgets induced him to build this device for me at a price that was very obviously not much above his costs. Ken's attention to detail resulted in a mixer that is well-made and virtually identical in spec to the posted MixMasher design. Combined with the same 10 gal Polarware kettle that Jack uses, I tested the mixer under conditions which I thought would be very similar to his. My initial conclusion is that the mixer probably works perfectly in the con text of Jack's brewing system, in which he mashes 15 lbs. of grain using one slow and continuous temperature boost from mash-in to mash-out. However, brewers who do not wish to adopt exactly the same technique might need to make a more adjustable mixer, or one customized to perform according to their needs and expectations. MIXING EFFICIENCY My initial batch used 9.5 lbs of grain and 3.5 gals water. This fills a 10 gal Polarware kettle considerably less than half full. With no formal knowledge of fluid dynamics, my guess is that a larger mash would have mixed more efficiently. With the fan blades not immersed deeply enough under the surface of the mash, I observed the mash welling up around the sides to some extent, combined with a less-than-ideal swirling motion which concentrated heat at the top and center. Continuing to use the mixer would have me leaning towards no-sparge brewing to increase the volume of the mash, and hopefully the mixing efficiency. BREWING TECHNIQUE I would have had no problem using the mixer with British pale ale malt, since in such cases I use a single temperature mash and would have needed the mixer simply for temperature adjustments and mash-out. However, my initial attempt involved malt with which I intended to use a brief protein rest by mashing-in at 122 F and starting to raise the temperature immediately. Unfortunately, I was only able to achieve a rate of .45 degrees/minute temperature increase without fear of damaging the mash. This resulted in a much longer time in the active proteinase range than I intended, not to mention some uncertainty over the fermentability of the wort I created. CONCLUSIONS With better mixing efficiency, I might have been able to raise the temperature faster, but I don't know how much faster. While Jack's long, slow temperature boost apparently works for him, I am hestitant to adopt this rather unconventional technique, as I perceive it to negate the control and predictability I felt I had before. With manual mixing, I was able to devise a stirring technique that would allow me to boost temperatures much more quickly without scorching or whipping up a froth. Further experiments will test the mixer with a larger mash volume and it will be interesting to see what this does for the mixing efficiency. Will report back with any interesting results. - -- A l e x S a n t i c Silicon Alley Brewery New York City Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 13:23:25 -0800 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com Subject: More politics: Do you want to get arrested after 2 beers? Hi all, I'm forwarding this letter I got from the institute for brewing studies. Sorry about it's length. It is more relevant than the crayfish thread. Have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) ******************************************** Institute for Brewing Studies BREWERS ALERT CALL YOUR REPRESENTATIVES! STOP NEW LAUTENBERG NATIONAL .08 PERCENT BAC MANDATE We expect an amendment to be offered March 30-April 1 in the House to force states to adopt a .08 percent BAC standard or lose a portion of their federal highway funds. The Lautenberg .08 amendment will occur during debate on the federal highway bill. The Lautenberg amendment will criminalize a 120-pound woman who consumes two glasses of wine within a two-hour period. It will do nothing to address the problem of the hard-core, high-BAC drunk Driver. We need you to call or fax your Senators to ask them to oppose the Lautenberg amendment. Please call or e-mail Scott Voss at (303) 447-0816 [scottv at aob.org] to let us know what response you receive. Talking Points Against Lautenberg Amendment The amendment will criminalize a 120-pound woman who consumes two glasses of wine over two hours. According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration software, a 120-pound woman who consumes two standard restaurant servings of wine over two hours would register .08 percent BAC. Is this the person who should be locked up to further the fight against drunk driving? The federal stick is the wrong approach. The days are gone when congress can dictate a "Made in Washington" solution and punish states that do not comply. No reputable study shows that .08 laws save lives. The Hingson (1995) study, which is usually cited by proponents as proof of the effectiveness of .08 laws, falls apart when different comparison states are used. A national .08 standard misses the target. The hard-core, high-BAC drunk driver ought to be the target of additional efforts. The vast majority of drunk driving fatalities are caused by drivers with BACs far over the current .10 percent limit in place in 35 states. The average BAC among fatally injured drinking drivers is .18 percent, almost twice the legal limit in 35 states. *********************** Back to George: I edited out a lot of info; contact Scott Voss at the above number/address for more info. If you ignore this now, you'll pay for it later. MADD and the other neo-prohibitionists won't stop at 0.08. Zero tolerance is their goal! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 14:22:24 -0500 From: Tim Martin <TimMartin at southwest.cc.nc.us> Subject: Beeston Marris Otter Pale Ale Hey Neighbors, It finally soaked in on my small acrospire of a brain from the recent discussion of Marris Otter that it is a species and various malting companies handle this malt. This prompted me to look in my mail order catalog to find out more about the Marris Otter that I have used and discovered the malting company is Beeston. The description reads "Beeston is a small malting company that continues its traditional floor malting practice that they believe produces a superior malted barley and specialty malts from England. Color is 2.1 degrees lovibond, diastatic power is 149 degrees lintner and total protein is 9.18%. Extract is 81%." Are many of you familiar with Beeston? Is Beeston a completely separate company from M & F malting. I would be interested in any comments since I will be placing an order soon. Thanks, Tim Martin Cullowhee, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 13:38:32 -0600 (CST) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: Munich Dark Kyle writes: >Anyone have a kilning schedule for making Munich Dark at home? Before you get excited, remember that you *must* begin with wet, green, *unkilned* malt to make Munich malt. Again, see my article on it in the Library on The Brewery website. Al. Return to table of contents
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