HOMEBREW Digest #2762 Wed 08 July 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Coronas and Limes ("Gregg Soh")
  Wort Chiller / Starting up again! (Richard Parker)
  Fridge cycling (fridge)
  RIMS Pump purchase update ("Matthew J. Harper")
  Re: Italian Made SS 304 Kettles? (Kenneth B Johnsen <NADB>)
  Oatmeal Stout (Rod Schaffter)
  culturing over flame (ALAN KEITH MEEKER)
  Caramel malt/Phil Seitz/outdoors/chiller/wits ("Jim Busch")
  Priming for better head ("Martin & Christine")
  ISO Glass airlock (Bill_Rehm)
  Re: Torrified wheat / gram scale (Jeff Renner)
  Use of slaked lime to precipitate bicarbonate (Steve Jackson)
  Split Boil/Sanitation/Vegas (John Varady)
  Re: "culuturing" over flame -clarification of previous post ("Anton Verhulst")
  Fining in the kettle with Irish moss ("Anton Verhulst")
  Re: Fining in the kettle with Irish moss (Alan Edwards)
  Yeast Starters (Again!) (Marc.Arseneau)
  Oatmeal recipes, yeast vs bacteria, sanitation, fridge, unwelcomed goats (Samuel Mize)
  Pumpkin and Steam ("John Watts")
  Gram scales ("Mercer, David")
  Wing Cappers/Rubber Bottoms/Oud Bruin/Webmasters ("RANDY ERICKSON")
  Re:  Limes in Corona (sorry) ("Kaczorowski, Scott")
  RE: Wing Cappers/Rubber Bottoms/Oud Bruin/Webmasters (MIS, SalemVA)"
  Re: Limes in Corona (Bob Devine)
  freshest hops? ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  Cordials (Dan McLaughlin & Christine Griffith)
  extract brix ratings (JPullum127)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 23:43:10 PDT From: "Gregg Soh" <greggos at hotmail.com> Subject: Coronas and Limes I recall that I too was once told by a friend that the limes that came with Coronas in South America were supposed to be used for wiping the bottle tops off. Never cared very much for the stuff myself. Oh well, even if I never touch the stuff, it's popularity is kinda good for me, since I tend to use these bottles for homebrew quite a bit and I can get crates of them. It's clear so I can see immediately if my finings or crash cooling have worked. Of course, I never put them in sunlight, just in the refigerator, since ambient temp around here is about 95F. Greg ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 09:31:05 +0100 From: Richard Parker <rparker at ims.ltd.uk> Subject: Wort Chiller / Starting up again! Hi all, Firstly thanks to Al K, Spencer Thomas, and Philip Wilcox for their replies to my question in #2748 about my high-tech tubing for the wort chiller. It's been decided to put the whole lot in series giving 6 foot of heat exchanger, encase the whole shebang in PVC drain pipe (I was way ahead of you Al!) and try and attach something to so it can be hung from somewhere in the kitchen (my girlfriend is going to love this, 18th centuary 3rd floor flat for a brewery...). I'll try and document the process of building this, and give a few numbers about it's efficiency, I'll post the URL when it's done, now to find a good plumbers supply house... Now, for the first brew for over 2 years <gulp> I want to do a Pale Ale, but very hoppy to give that passion fruit, kiwi fruit, mango-ey flavour. (a la Rooster's Brewery if any of you know it) so... (all UK measurements) St Andrewgate Pale Ale For 5 gallons : 9lbs Maris Otter Pale Ale Malt 8oz Caramunich 8oz Malted Wheat 2oz Cascade 90 mins 2oz Cascade 30 mins 2oz Cascade 2 mins Wyeast 1338 Critique please? I've never used Caramunich before, but I don't like the sweetness imparted by Crystal at this sort of quantity and I want some body with slight residual sweetness so it seemed ideal. The hopping, well, I want LOTS of aroma, but should I go more complex and use a Fuggles/Goldings combo for the bittering instead of cascade? Also should I be temperature stepping this, or is a simple infusion mash OK? Thanks in advance, Rich Richard Parker - Brewing in York, UK richparker at earthling.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 05:22:37 -0400 From: fridge at Imbecile.kzoo.edu Subject: Fridge cycling Greetings folks, "AllDey" Paul asked about his fridge that runs too much, and doesn't cool properly. Modern fridges use smaller compressors and better insulation to increase energy efficiency. This results in more frequent cycling. Expect a newer fridge to run about 50% of the time with an average food load and an ambient temp of 75 degF or so. In Paul's case the symptoms suggest either a worn compressor or an insufficient refrigerant charge. Be aware that there must be a leak in the system for it to be short of refrigerant. Simply recharging the system is both irresponsible and illegal. It also will probably not work. Here's why. Evaporator pressure may be below ambient in a fridge running with a short charge. If so, air and moisture will be drawn into the system through any leak. Air in the system will prevent it from cooling properly - even if the proper amount of refrigerant is added. A proper repair would be to recover all remaining refrigerant from the system.The leak must be found and repaired. The system then must be evacuated and recharged with the proper amount of refrigerant. This should cost more than $100 to have done. The above assumes the compressor is ok. If the compressor is bad, add another $100-$200 to the bill. A replacement fridge looks attractive. Keep in mind when shopping for a used fridge that one more than 10 years old will probably cost enough more in energy cost to pay monthly payments on a new fridge. Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo fridge at Imbecile.kzoo.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 22:56:29 -0400 From: "Matthew J. Harper" <matth at progress.com> Subject: RIMS Pump purchase update About 2 months ago during a discussion about RIMS pumps I wrote that I had tried to contact Moving Brews but had not had any luck in the few times I had tried. Bill Stewart, owner of Moving Brews, saw my posting and dropped me a personal note apologizing for my misfortune in not contacting him asked what we had to do to synch up. We traded a couple of messages and then spoke on the phone for a while about brew stuff and I placed my order for a pump, some tubing & other stuff. Bill was extremely pleasant to deal with and was honest and curious about my own plans and uses for the equipment. Took his time to give me some info into his operation as well. Coming from New Hampshire I've gotten spoiled by continually pleasant service up here in Friendly New England. (grew up in NY, Lived in several other states... 'tis nicer up here!). Bill would fit right in! <grin> My stuff arrived on time, intact, etc. I am *extremely* happy with the pump, which for the life of me I cannot recall the name here at work... (The higher capacity of the two high temp ones if anyone cares.) Worked like *A Charm*, as did the high temp neoprene I purchased. Didn't soften too much at 200 degrees. nice stuff! All in all, my experience with Moving Brews has been quite satisfying and I will most certainly order from them again should I need more stuff (and we all need more brew stuff! :-) I'm posting this to dispel any wrong impressions I may have given folks about Moving Brews in my earlier posting. Bill is doing a great service for the Home Brew community and I'd hate to be a cause for him to lose business. He has much of what I and others need in one place for very reasonable prices. It has let me concentrate on brewing beer instead of hunting for stuff I need to brew beer the way I want to brew it. Thanks Bill! No affiliation; Nothing to be gained; I disclaim everything; Don't believe or agree with me if you don't want to; blah blah blah -Matth Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 08:24:17 -0400 From: kbjohns at peakaccess.net (Kenneth B Johnsen <NADB>) Subject: Re: Italian Made SS 304 Kettles? J<italic>LNail at aol.com wrote Saw an add for the Italian made stainless brew kettles with spigot at a pretty good price. Question: What is the difference between 18-8 gauge and 304 gauge? </italic> 18-8 and 304 describe the composition of the stainless steel, not the guage. The Italian kettles we've seen are fairly thin. More inportantly the bottom is the same thickness as the sides. Since stainless doesn't cary heat well, the bottom should be thicker, espescially in the the center, than the sides. I beleieve they are more commononly used for wine fermentation. Keep in mind the kettles you're considering may be different than those that I've seen. Bob Precision Brewing Systems URL http://www.pbsbeer.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 09:02:57 -0400 From: Rod Schaffter <schaffte at delanet.com> Subject: Oatmeal Stout Mike Hanson Asks: > Does anyone out there know of or know where I can find an extract-based > recipe that comes out tasting something like Samuel Smith's oatmeal stout? We once made a nice oatmeal stout from extract by using a partial mash. It was about 4 Qt, and used a (I lost my notes for this batch!!) pound or so of 6-row and oatmeal(about 60/4%) heat up oats to mash in, add water to thin & cool to 122 F. Add malt and mash for ~ 1.5 hr(did in oven). Mash out, cool, strain and add to extract/water/hops and boil. I must add that when we did it, my cronies bought _QUICK_ oats, and straining was a painful process! The beer was great, tho'. I would have your friend try some straight extract batches before tackling this one, IMHO. Perhaps a nice traditional Porter or two. Cheers, Rod Schaffter Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:34:20 -0400 (EDT) From: ALAN KEITH MEEKER <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: culturing over flame Jon Bovard asked about culturing yeast over flame... I wouldn't exactly use the term antiseptic "curtain" unless your talking about a VERY small curtain (or a large flame!). It does make sense however that the air which has just entered the flame from below and to the side is probably sterilized and therefore the small airspace above the flame represents a reasonably sterile environment. Also, the idea of the upward convection keeping nasty things from floating down into your culture, as has been previously mentioned, seems reasonable. When culturing bacteria or yeast in the lab we do use a bunsen burner - first, to heat sterilize our transfer loops (small loops of platinium wire) and second to spot sterilize the openings and lips of glassware such as test tubes, culture vials, flasks, etc. Interestingly, the goal of this procedure is not to sterilize by heating the surface up but merely to run the opening through the reducing portion of the flame. This is apparently sufficient to prevent most contamination problems and in fact these are thankfully quite rare. The story is told(apocryphal?) that Pasteur had his students "flame" their hands before doing culture work at the bench! Cheers! - ------------------------------------------------------------------ "Graduate school is the snooze button on the alarm clock of life." -Jim Squire -Alan Meeker Johns Hopkins Hospital Dept. of Urology (410) 614-4974 __________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:42:41 +0000 From: "Jim Busch" <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Caramel malt/Phil Seitz/outdoors/chiller/wits Re: caramel malt fermentability. I always thought it led to higher FGs, especially as the color of the malt increases. I try to minimize the percentage of caramel malts in most beers that I want to be highly attenuated. YMMV. Re: Phil Seitz and Belgium. Phil is now back in the USA, in good ol Philly where he can stock up on all kinds of Belgian Ales at Monks and Victory beers too! He's even engaged now. If you would like to contact Phil, email me and I will forward your note to Phil. Im sure he would be very happy to hear that one of his recipes produced a BOS ribbon! Re: brewing outdoors and "bugs/etc". Certainly something to be aware of. I have a chiller line that takes wort from my brewhouse to the fermenter in the basement, keep the end sealed up after use of all kinds of bugs will crawl in. BTW, to the person who wants a SS plate exchanger to chill 32-35 gals of wort, a simple 1/2" soft copper fridge line inside of 3/4" garden hose works fine for me. 50' of copper will chill 32 gals in about 30 mins with my tap water. Plate chillers are nice too but will cost plenty and need to be flushed with caustics. Re: Wit acidity. Ive measured Celis White to be about 4.1 while most "regular" beers are in the 4.3-4.5 range as measured off the tap. Compare with lambics in the 3's and remember that pH is a log function. Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 07:38:12 -0600 From: "Martin & Christine" <mcl at fone.net> Subject: Priming for better head Lately we have had a few batches that have had very little head to them > after opening the bottles. We have been using corn sugar instead of sugar > for priming the bottles. What seems to cause the low out-come of fizz on > our heads. Is it that we don't use enough corn sugar? Or should we go > back to the regular sugar? Or is the time that we keep our brew in the > bottles? We usually are putting about a tablespoon of the sugar to that of > a bottle. Is there some way of measuring this to proper priming? > > Thanks, > > Martin & Christine > Happy Brew Couple Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:47:38 -0600 From: Bill_Rehm at DeluxeData.com Subject: ISO Glass airlock Does anyone know where I can get glass airlocks, I've been using those plastic triple bubble ones for quite a while but would like some glass ones so I can boil them with the rest of my yeast starter equipment. TIA Bill Rehm Riverwest, Milwaukee, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:50:32 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Torrified wheat / gram scale Doug Moyer <Douglas.Moyer at geics.ge.com> wrote that he brewed a variation of my ginger wit http://hbd.org/brewery/cm3/recs/09_85.html (great summer beer - NB Tom Puskar who wanted a clone of Sam Adams Summer Beer). First, little bit about this brew may be of interest. I first brewed it in 1995 to be a summer quencher for beer and non-beer drinkers. I substituted fresh ginger for the more traditional dried curacao and other orange peels because I disliked the occasional "lunchmeat" flavor that sometimes seems to develop with these. The ginger also provides a bit of the bite that lactic acid does in traditional wit. It worked famously and scored in low 40's in Michigan State Fair. I entered it in the first Long Shot home brew contest and it scored in the upper 30's and passed through 4 judges! Obviously, someone was taking a close look at it, but it didn't end up a winner. Then, Sam Adams, the sponsor of Long Shot, came out the following summer with their summer ale with Grains of Paradise featured! Coincidence? Anyway, Doug wrote he was obliged to substitute torrified wheat for the soft, white winter wheat I used. He said that this was >visually identical to the malted wheat that Jeff was selling (I don't >recall the maltster). Jeff musta been the name of the shopkeeper, I guess. I wasn't there. ;-) The Canadian torrified wheat is made from soft white winter wheat. Some premium malted wheat is indeed made from soft white winter wheat. It's specified in product discriptions. Soft wheat typically has lower levels of protein than hard wheat and white wheat has lower phenol and tannin content than red. If you can't get soft white winter wheat, which is what they use in Belgium, then soft red or even hard red winter wheat will work. The latter is what Celis uses in Texas since it is grown there. >Could someone please tell me what torrified wheat >is and the pros and cons of using it? Torrified wheat is indeed roasted in a way that it does indeed puff a little, as Doug suggested, but very little. This gelatinizes the starches (which happens at mash temps anyway, which is why you don't need to pregelatinize wheat by cooking it). I use it <10% in British ales to give head retention and a toasty note. Don't know if it really works, but some good bitters are brewed with it, so I use it. I've never used it in a wit or at high levels. > Jeff's recipe called for 5 g. freshly ground cardamom (among other >things). I was probably lucky to get +/- 50% accuracy weighing the >cardamom with my 18 oz. mechanical diet scale. My notes say that I used 3 g. freshly ground cardamom and 5 g. of freshly ground Grains of Paradise, but I see that I reversed these in the recipe in Cat's Meow. They are grace notes of flavor, so I don't think it's a big matter. Anyway, 1 tsp of unground cardomom seeds or grains of paradise (a related spice botanically) weighs about 3 g. I used 1 and 1-1/2 tsp respectively and weighed them, then ground them in a mortar and pestle. I hope other brewers will try this great summer beer. Originally I gave it a 30 minute protein rest at 122F, but I think this may have cost head retention, so I'd suggest a shorter rest. Actually, I mash in at 104F and then raise to 140F over 20 minutes, passing through protein degradation temperatures. I don't get the huge, dumpling-like hot break now, though. It's also a little fuller in body, which may be good or bad. I just bottled the '98 edition Saturday. It takes no time to mature since it's traditionally a slightly cloudy beer, so there's still time to brew it and be drinking it this summer. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 07:01:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve Jackson <stevejackson at rocketmail.com> Subject: Use of slaked lime to precipitate bicarbonate I have read in various places that bicarbonate (aka "temporary hardness") can be removed from water by either boiling or by using slaked lime. My local water has a fair amount of this stuff in it, but generally not enough that I'm usually concerned about it (even a small amount of darker malts, including crystal malts, acidify things enough that it takes a reasonably small amount of gypsum or calcium chloride to get my mash pH to where I want it). However, when brewing extremely pale beers, I can have trouble hitting the right pH without adding what I feel are excessive salts. Generally, I'm too lazy to boil up 7-10 gallons of water the night before I brew (my current brew day is long enough the way it is without adding time for boiling water), so I was wondering about the use of slaked lime to get the bicarbonate out of my water. Since I have not been able to find any details on its use and its suitability for human consumption, I figured I'd see if anyone out there has experience or insight. Thanks. -Steve in Indianapolis _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 10:00:47 -0700 From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net> Subject: Split Boil/Sanitation/Vegas I have an idea to make two beers at the same time but at different IBU levels. I, like so many of us here, have to brew a batch every now and then that is less bitter I like in order to keep my wife quenched. Now, she likes a good pale ale so long as it's not too bitter. I had the following idea the other day while brewing a big IPA ("I thought you were gonna make a fruit beer for me next..."). Say I make 12 gallons of 1050 beer. I boil this for 10 mins before adding any hops, add 150 gms of 5% AAU EKG for 30 mins, 60 gms for 15 mins and 60 gms at 0 mins. This short boil will yield about 20 IBUS. I would drain 1/2 of the contents thru a CF chiller to a fermenter and restart the boil. After bringing this back to a boil, I would let it go for 30 mins more and add 30 gms more hops at 15 and 0 mins. This would be like a 6 gallon batch with 75 gms EKG at 60 mins, 30 gms at 45 mins, 30 gms at 30 mins, 30 gms at 15 mins, and 30 gms at 0 mins ~ very well hopped at about 55 IBUS. The only difference between this and my normal hopping schedule is that I don't usually add hops at 45 mins. This in effect would yield two beers with almost identical OG (boil-off should increase the OG) but different hopping rates and would make both myself and my wife happy. It should add only 1/2 hour to your process. Any one see any holes in this idea? You'd probably want to use hops with good aroma throughout to avoid harshness in the first beer since they are only boiled for 30 mins. - --- Some comments have been made lately about lax sanitation and the problems that didn't come with it. I'm sure you can make good beer by skipping some sanitation here and there, but I just want to point out that on a BJCP score sheet, a score of 29 is a good beer. I feel that if you want to make very good to excellent beer, your sanitation has to be top notch. I am no longer satisfied with scores of 29, and therefore won't be skipping bottle washing or mixing in priming sugar with my arm. - --- Going to be in Los Vegas from 7/10-14 (this weekend) for a trade show (NACUBO) and need the skinny on the beer scene. I don't want to get stuck drinking lemon infused Corona. John Varady http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady Boneyard Brewing The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program Glenside, PA rust1d at usa.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 10:20:15 -0400 From: "Anton Verhulst" <verhulst at zk3.dec.com> Subject: Re: "culuturing" over flame -clarification of previous post Jon Bovard writes" >Supposedly the presence of a naked flame or heat source eg. Bunsen >burner or 4 ring burner etc, creates an aseptic curtain. >Is this true or to what degree is it a myth? Micro-organisms don't just float around in the air but are typically attached to dust particles. The purpose of the flame is to create a convection area. That is, the air near the flame goes up. If you work near the flame, say within 6 inches (15 cm), dust laden bacteria won't fall into your open cutlures. - --Tony V. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 10:25:07 -0400 From: "Anton Verhulst" <verhulst at zk3.dec.com> Subject: Fining in the kettle with Irish moss Dave Humes writes: >The last time I used Irish moss in the kettle I swore I'd never use >it again. Now I remember why...... It's amazing how 2 people can have such a difference of opinion. The few times I did not use IM in the kettle, I have regretted it. - --Tony V. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 07:44:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Alan Edwards <ale at cisco.com> Subject: Re: Fining in the kettle with Irish moss | Greetings, | | The last time I used Irish moss in the kettle I swore I'd never use | it again. Now I remember why. I made an America Pale Ale this | weekend and used 4 tsp of Irish moss in an 11 gallon batch. That is probably too much. I use 1.5 tsp for a five gallon batch. But I'm not sure what using "too much" does besides wasting some of your Irish moss. | I thought this was a fairly modest amount. What's happened is that I | have this colloidal suspension hanging in the middle of my | fermenters. Now you might say that's normal and it will drop out. It's normal and it will drop to the bottom by the time your beer is finished. I've almost always used Irish moss and this is always what happens for me. The time that I forgot, the beer took longer to clear and had a chill haze at first. (After leaving the keg in the refrigerator for several weeks, though, the haze dropped out.) | But this suspension formed in less than an hour after pitching the | yeast and oxygenating. Actually, I suspect that if formed during the | cold break in the CF chiller and then just flocked in the fermenters | to the point where it became a well defined, suspended mass?. These are all good things! You want the trub to collect into the mass. It doesn't dissolve--it will not reabsorb into your beer. This is the whole point of the "cold break". People use CF chillers because it gives them a better break; same argument for using Irish moss, in my opinion. | There was no CO2 release going on at that point to suspend the cloud. I used to wait for a few hours for this trub to settle *before* pitching the yeast. It always dropped to the bottom (though the time to do this varied). I used to rack off of the mass before pitching the yeast. But now, I just leave it in for the fermentation. (It saves me an extra headache--I doesn't appear to reabsorb, so why bother.) | Around the cloud, the beer is very clear, even now during high | kraeusen. That is something to celebrate! | The last time I used Irish moss this stuff just did not want to drop out. Hmmm...I've never had that problem. | I have much better temperature control now and | might be able to drop it out by crash cooling. Is this expected | behaviour with Irish moss? Am I adding too much? Is it worth the | bother? Taste / see the difference (in the finished product) and decide for yourself! That is the axiom to apply to anybody's advice on this list. -Alan in Fremont, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:53:26 -0400 From: Marc.Arseneau at fluordaniel.com Subject: Yeast Starters (Again!) In keeping with my life's ambition of removing as much effort as possible from brewing, and also in keeping with the recent complaints regarding the overly-complex nature of the HBD, I am resurrecting a point made back in HBD 2720 and 2721, in response to yeast starters. Jay Spies had asked about the quantity of DME to mix with water to make a good starter for yeast. I had responded (in #2720) > my general rule of thumb is to use 1 TABLESPOON of > DME for every 100 ml water. (or 10 Tablespoons per > liter) Pat Babcock (in #2721) responded that: > Using 1 gallon = 3785.4 ml and 1 lb = 453.59 grams, and > assuming DME yields 45 pgp... converting: > (45pts*gal/lb)*(3785.4ml/gal)/(lb*453.59g/lb). > Canceling units, we have > 45pts*3785.4ml/453.59g=375.5pm/g > Let's say you want 800ml of 1.030 starter from DME. > How many grams of DME do you need? > 30pts*800ml=453.59pts*ml/g. Solving for the > mass, collecting units and rounding up yields 53 grams > of DME. Well, that's a little to much arithmetic for me to endure, especially since I typically build my starters up from slants in 3 steps, 100 ml - 500 ml - 2 L. So, I subjected my {1 Tbsp / 100 ml} rule of thumb to the arithmetic. Assuming that the specific gravity of DME is 0.68 (that's 680 mg/L or 42.4 lb/ft3), and working through the calculations provided by Pat Babcock, you end up with: 1 Tbsp DME = 15 ml = 10.2 g and 10.2 g DME in 100 ml water gives 38 points or 1 Tbsp DME in 100 ml water makes a 1.038 starter. When I make up the bigger starters, I just remember that there are 4 Tablespoons in a 1/4 cup, or 16 Tablespoons in a full cup. So a 2 L starter would use 20 Tbsp, or 1 1/4 cups. Marc Arseneau Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 10:11:56 -0500 (CDT) From: Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net> Subject: Oatmeal recipes, yeast vs bacteria, sanitation, fridge, unwelcomed goats > From: "Michael O. Hanson" <mhanson at winternet.com> > Subject: Sam Smith's Oatmeal Stout > > Hello fellow homebrewers, > > Does anyone out there know of or know where I can find an extract-based > recipe that comes out tasting something like Samuel Smith's oatmeal stout? Well, there are 13 extract recipes for oatmeal stout in Cat's Meow at the Brewery (http://www.brewery.org) -- as many as there are for all-grain and partial mash combined. None of them specifically mention Samuel Smith's, but many include a description of the beer that resulted from the recipe. (Typically dark, smooth, and creamy, with the oats providing mouthfeel but little flavor. Is that what you want?) I might trust a partial mash recipe better, otherwise you can get starch from the oats into your beer. This can create haze (no biggie in a dark stout) and can feed infections (some bacteria can eat starch). If you're going to drink it soon after making it, you're very likely to have no problem with gushers or bombs. If you're planning to age it for a few months, you might want to use a partial mash to convert the oats. There's also oat or oatmeal extract. One of the recipes uses 6# of "William's Oatmeal Dark Extract," there may be others. Email me if you don't have web access, I'll email you the Cat's Meow recipes. - - - - - - - - - - > From: mark.mallett at bbc.co.uk > Subject: Starter size, yeast anti-microbial properties > > Most brewing books say starters should be of large enough volume > [because] A short lag time reduces the chance of infection. > [This] seems to lead to yeast having anti-microbial properties, > is this so. Not the yeast themselves, but the alcohol they produce. I think they jigger the pH also. Yeast rapidly make their environment toxic to bacteria, so they can feast undisturbed. - - - - - - - - - - > From: Peter.Perez at smed.com > Subject: Re: Trub (the part on Sanitation though) > > Vern writes: ... > I went fishing in the wort with my arm > almost up to my shoulder. Gee, my arm goes entirely up to my shoulder -- oh, wait, never mind. > [when bottling] I skipped the chlorine soak and > simply rinsed with our excellent local tap water, no infected bottles > after 200 tries. Perhaps I'm just lucky or maybe we worry a little too > much about killing every last bug." > > I have often been suspect of this as well, thinking that our forefathers > probably didn't have One-step and Iodophore, and I am sure they must have > made some pretty good beers. True. On the other hand, some of them were excellent lambic-style beers, and others weren't so hot but didn't go to waste if Our Forefathers could drink them at all. Lax sanitation is a dance with probability. Every skipped step creates a risk of infection. How big that risk is depends on your environment, your other procedures, your materials, and so on. If your total risk of infection is 5% per batch, you have an even chance of making 13 batches with never an infection. At 1% per batch, you have an even chance of making 68 batches without an infection. At 0.5% risk, 138 batches. You have to decide how important to you (or not) a lost batch is, how likely it is in your set-up, and how much work you're willing to do to prevent it. Also, some infections can create a minor off flavor -- for instance, an infection that lives briefly, then is killed by alcohol as the yeast fermentation kicks in. This may not matter to you or me, but it would to someone trying to win Best of Show in a major competition. For instance, Al K has said that he has to filter his aeration air (or use bottled O2) in the summer, because his environment has a resident that creates a mild clove flavor. You have to decide how important minor off flavors are, how likely they are, and how much work you're willing to do to prevent them. - - - - - - - - - - > From: AllDey at aol.com > Subject: Fridge, Basements & Propane > > Oh Forrest and others, "other" being my usual category... > My whirlpool estate series fridge is running lots more than it should ... > The sensor is sitting inside in a glass > of veg oil. I assume you've been told to do that -- but why? And wouldn't that make it slower to respond to temperature changes? Slower to turn on, then slower to turn off. Is this something one does with an external controller? > I once had a fridge guy ... tell me it probably > needed re-charging. That would certainly keep it running. If it's low on gas (freon?) it won't cool effectively, and it will keep trying. > Please don't welcome me Sam...I've been lurking forever and feel plenty > welcome. The point, of course, was to point out the number of new people posting, and to encourage lurkers to post by publicly welcoming a few new posters. But it's too late to not welcome you. Since Kyle asked about being left out, I welcomed prior posters. Since you posted several times in 1997 and 1998, you've been welcomed already. But I can retract it if you really want me to. Boy, you phony lurkers really get my goat. Here, billy billy billy -- I've got to get my goat back so I can eat some red meat. No wasted band width here either. But if I see another post about eating goats, I'll cancel this one. Best, Sam Mize - -- Samuel Mize -- smize at imagin.net (home email) -- Team Ada Fight Spam: see http://www.cauce.org/ \\\ Smert Spamonam Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 10:25:46 -0500 From: "John Watts" <watts at top.net> Subject: Pumpkin and Steam To All, I know it's a bit early to be thinking about a pumpkin ale, but since it always seems to take 3 months before the spices mellow, this time I want it ready by Thanksgiving! The question is: Does the pumpkin contribute anything other than mouthfeel? And if that's all it does, could it be replaced with something easier to work with, like oatmeal? On the steam note: As I haven't blown myself by switching from an electric burner to propane, something must be done, so I'm looking at (low pressure) steam injection system for mashing. Can the tubing that runs into the mash be left open on the end, or should it be crimped and holes drilled along the sides. Crimping and drilling would seem to help maintain pressure and keep the mash from backfilling the steam line, but is it that much of a concern? TIA John Watts watts at top.net John Watts watts at top.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:25:01 -0700 From: "Mercer, David" <dmercer at path.org> Subject: Gram scales Doug Moyer asked about inexpensive accurate gram scales. I have been using a small Polder kitchen scale for years, always assuming that it was pretty inaccurate - especially at low weights like 5g. A while back I bought a set of brass weights at a flea market and used them to check the accuracy of my Polder. It was right on the money. 5g of weight produced a 5g reading. 28g (I actually measured out 28g 350mg) produced a one ounce reading. I was pretty impressed (although I'm still looking for a balance scale to take advantage of those cool weights.) Dave in Seattle Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:30:09 -0700 From: "RANDY ERICKSON" <RANDYE at mid.org> Subject: Wing Cappers/Rubber Bottoms/Oud Bruin/Webmasters Back when I first started brewing my partner & I would break on average two bottles per batch using the standard two handle capper. Eventually it dawned on us (15 years of engineering school between us at the time) that we were putting quite a bit of downward force on the handles and compressing the heck out of the bottle necks. Since then I have concentrated on only applying enough force to crimp the caps and I actually lift the bottle off of the floor a bit (by the ends of the handles) as I bring the handles to the end of their stroke. Haven't broken a bottle since. ********************************************************* I have a 13 gallon rubber coated SS keg also. I tried for about 5 minutes to cut the rubber coating off but promptly gave up. Now I have a road-worthy, super-stable, light-impervious, idiot-proof 13 gallon carboy. Highest and best use for these, IMO. ********************************************************* Al K thinks perhaps Phil Seitz' Belgian recipes are available at the Brewery site. They are, try: http://brewery.org/brewery/library/mashtun/belg.html#bruin ********************************************************** Doug Moyer uses UNIX, NT, and a bunch of other stuff that impresses the heck out of me, then draws a blank on how to put his recipes on his website. My apologies if this question is about techno/programming issues that went over my head. I use Notepad.exe for my web editing (I started with the Geocites editor, and dabble in Netscape Composer, but Notepad is easier, really). Remember, it's the content that matters, not the cute boxes and frames. Chances are you already have the recipes in some sort of electronic format, just take it from there. KISS. BTW, when I come across a webpage feature I really like, I use Netscape's <View>, <Page Source> command to get a look at the source code and see how it was done. Makes my job a lot easier, and doesn't require me to know nearly as much. Cheers, Randy in Modesto Stanislaus Hoppy Cappers http://www.jps.net/randye/ Return to table of contents
Date: 7 Jul 1998 09:37:54 U From: "Kaczorowski, Scott" <kaczorowski#m#_scott at apt.mdc.com> Subject: Re: Limes in Corona (sorry) I know this isn't homebrew-related, but Al K. started it ;-) > There are a great many unpaved roads in Mexico and when you > order a beer in a rural bar, sometimes you get a bottle and > sometimes you get a can. You rarely get a glass. If you get a > bottle, no problem. If you get a can, it's very likely to have a > layer of dirt on top. To avoid drinking this dirt, the locals have > made a habit of cleaning the dirt off the can with the closest > thing available: a slice of lime, I've been to Baja, many villages in the deepest, darkest Yucatan, etc. Places where they don't even speak Spanish. Hospitality in Mexico in general is phenomenal, but in a "rural" setting, it can be downright embarassing! Serve you a beer with dirt on the top? Never heard of, never seen such a thing. Also, think about it for a second: Lime + dirt == mud. Not much accomplished. In my not-so-limited experience, Tecate seems to be the beer of choice among Mexicans (along with copious amounts of lime juice and salt). The lime is squeezed onto the top of the can, and *then* discarded. Tecate is actually pretty good this way... I've heard many stories regarding the use of limes in Corona. Most likely it stems from the practice of including a small bowl of sliced limes ("limon", actually - a lemon/lime hybrid) on tables in restaurants. This is simply a condiment used for seasoning whatever you want. Some people just eat them. Take a swag of beer, suck on a lime. With some beers on some days, a good slug of lime juice in your cerveza just plain ol' WORKS. I'm sure the practice predates Corona, and I'm also sure it has to do with flavor rather than scaring flies away, etc. > A related story (which is more likely to be true) is that the > brewer of Corona had to hire a bunch of workers to *manually* > remove limes from bottles with coathangers because their > bottling line was unable to remove the limes from the > returnable bottles. Possible, sure, but I doubt it. No flame intended, Al, but Mexico is not some stinking, backwards craphole unfamiliar with the concept of a high pressure jet of water. Some parts are not so nice, sure, but that's not much different than the US. Related to that, though, many times in Mexico I've seen a little dot silkscreened on the neck of bottles (Corona, Negra Leon, Victoria, etc.) This looks for all the world to me like a fill mark and I wouldn't be a bit surprised if some bottling lines (including the removal of limes) are more manual than others. Scott Kaczorowski Long Beach, CA kacz at deltanet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 12:59:22 -0400 From: "Moyer, Douglas E (MIS, SalemVA)" Subject: RE: Wing Cappers/Rubber Bottoms/Oud Bruin/Webmasters Randy in Modesto said: "My apologies if this question is about techno/programming issues that went over my head." It looks like it did. Apparently I wasn't sufficiently clear to correctly convey my question. I am looking to organize my recipes in a database format to allow viewers to do "cool" things like ingredient searches, scaling, IBU calculations, etc. (Which I didn't clearly mentioned in the post.) I certainly have no problem with basic html, or even frames and such. I often do like Randy said, and when I see a page that I like, copy the source code. (I have no reference material--I am almost purely cut & paste. ;-) The problem with just putting the recipes into html is that there is a higher amount of maintenance involved to maintain uniformity and consistency. (I.e., every structural change has to be done to all recipe pages, etc.) I was also looking for interactivity, as mentioned above. Basically, I just wanted to take it one step further. In the four web sites that I have made (including an intranet for GE), I have always eschewed the cute in favor of the functional. In that line, dynamic (programmable) interfaces are usually the fastest way to get the user the information he/she wants. I.e., users don't want to spend minutes downloading the entire list of recipes if they are only interested in stouts. Keep the graphics to a minimum, and reuse them, as the user's browser will keep the recent graphics in memory, and will not need to reload them. (Some people have noted how cheap bandwidth is now, but I am accustomed to making web pages for those with poor connectivity, like our job sites in Indonesia or rural Korea, etc.) Sorry to go so far off the normal topic, but I still would like an answer or two. Thanks! BTW, I do all of my html programming in Notepad as well. Brew on! Doug Moyer (Douglas.Moyer at geics.ge.com) Salem, VA Star City Brewers Guild: http://hbd.org/starcity/ Pictures of my baby: http://www.rev.net/~kmoyer/ (Doing pretty good with the parenthetical comments myself) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 11:05:11 -0600 From: Bob Devine <bdevine at 10fold.com> Subject: Re: Limes in Corona Al Korzonas wrote: > I've heard this story regarding the origin of the lime in Mexican beers. > If you get a can, it's very likely to have a layer of dirt on top. To > avoid drinking this dirt, the locals have made a habit of cleaning the > dirt off the can with the closest thing available: a slice of lime [...] A different story that I heard from a person born in Mexico was that in the early days of beer cans, the cheaper beers were put in cans that did not have a food-grade lining. As a result, if the beer sat in the can for a while, the beer picked up a metallic taste. So an easy way to mask the off-flavor was to squeeze some lime juice into it. Nowadays the typical beer can is either an aluminum can or a lined steel can. But lime in beer seems to me to be a perfectly acceptable way to kick the beer up a notch (as Emeril Lagasse says) just as lemon is used in German kristal weizens. Bob Devine Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 13:36:24 -0400 From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at avery.med.virginia.edu> Subject: freshest hops? O.K. I'm getting ready to brew that great IPA, I open my nitrogen purged 02 barrier bag of whole flower cascade that I bought after hearing raves about this supplier, I stick my nose in for that big cascade aroma but... it's not there. I open my little plastic bag of cascade pellets bought from the local homebrew shop 6 months ago... now that's aroma. What should I do? Is the great aroma hiding in those whole hops? Should I use them or the pellets? Rick Pauly Charlottesville,VA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 13:40:10 -0400 From: Dan McLaughlin & Christine Griffith <danchris.mcl at erols.com> Subject: Cordials Just a quick thanks to all you responded to my inquiry about cordials both here and email. Mucho Appreciado! Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 14:30:37 EDT From: JPullum127 at aol.com Subject: extract brix ratings good point about the brix rating. I think the muntons are around 80, anybody know about alexanders. I can't find a web page for them. (official company name is california concentrate co.) while we are on the subject how would you calculate brix ratings into a probable target gravity thanks Return to table of contents
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