HOMEBREW Digest #285 Tue 24 October 1989

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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Some (hopefully) simple questions (Mike Kahn)
  Oatmeal Stout (Jennifer_Glass)
  Re: [grolsch bottles & explosions] (Dr. T. Andrews)
  The ``Golden Beer'' State: Part 1: Northern California (David L. Kensiski )
  Trub Management (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Death, Brewing, and Taxes ("I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?")
  Hot and Cold Breaks ("I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?")
  Hot and Cold Breaks ("I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?")
  Achtung: Braumeistern! (Doug Roberts  at  Los Alamos National Laboratory)
  Stainless Steel Pots (bryan)
  orange (Alan Duester)

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 08:48:27 PDT From: Mike Kahn <mike at stat.washington.edu> Subject: Some (hopefully) simple questions Although we have been brewing for a few years now, my friends and I have what are probably rather basic questons. I haven't seen any discussion of them lately, and what better place to find the answers. One, what is the difference between a bitter and a pale ale? Is it in the "hop structure", or is it the type of adjunct (crystal malt vs. pale malt), or is it some combination of these? Two, what is malt extract? For example, is light, unhopped malt extract simply concentrated light, dry malt? If not, what is different? If so, is there some approximate conversion? (Say, 3.3# of extract is approx. ???# of dry malt.) Three, what exactly is Irish Moss and what is its purpose? Four, we are preparing to make a(some) seasonal ale(s) and wonder if anyone has suggestions for adding "seasonal" spices (e.g. cinammon, cardamon, nutmeg.) For anyone who had Grant's Spiced Ale of a couple of years ago, that is the prototype. We aren't looking for anything terribly "spiced", instead we want a hint of "seasonality". Thanks a lot for any and all discussion. MK mike at brothers.stat.washington.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 89 11:28:00 EDT From: Jennifer_Glass at ub.cc.umich.edu Subject: Oatmeal Stout Thanks for putting us on the mailing list. I have a specific question. My fellow brewers and I would like to make an oatmeal stout, but we haven't been able to find a recipe, or suggestions for adding oatmeal the wort (how much, when to add during the boil, etc..) Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks, Jennifer Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 89 7:39:58 EDT From: Dr. T. Andrews <ki4pv!tanner at uunet.UU.NET> Subject: Re: [grolsch bottles & explosions] ) ... Grolsch bottles. The rubber gaskets allow excess pressure ) to leak out. It has been my experience that the rubber gaskets (esp. the replacements, which are thicker than the originals) will in fact do a good job of holding the pressure. When too much pressure is held, the bottles explode. I've cleaned up after several. -- ...!bikini.cis.ufl.edu!ki4pv!tanner ...!bpa!cdin-1!ki4pv!tanner or... {allegra attctc gatech!uflorida uunet!cdin-1}!ki4pv!tanner Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 14:12:29 PDT From: david%cygnus. at Sun.COM (David L. Kensiski ) Subject: The ``Golden Beer'' State: Part 1: Northern California The ``Golden Beer'' State A Guide To California's Beer Hot Spots Northern California Anderson H Beverage Company PO Box 839 (916) 347-5475 Arcata B Humboldt 856 10th Street, 95521 (707) 826-BREW S Arcata Co-Op 811 I Street Boonville B Anderson Valley 14081 Highway 128, 95415 (707) 895-BEER Calistoga B Calistoga Inn 1250 Lincoln Avenue, 94515 (707) 942-4101 P,R Lord Darby Arms 1923 Lake Street Chico M Saxton (916) 893-3520 B Sherwood 319 Main Street, 95928 opening '89 M Sierra Nevada (916) 893-3520 brewpub open late '89 S Mangrove Bottle Shop 1348 Mangrove (?) H Home Brew Shop 331 Main Street Davis B Back Alley 139 G Street (916) 756-1075 S Valley Wine Company 416 G Street P,R Pistachios 305 First Street Eureka B Lost Coast 617 4th Street opening late '89 Fairfield M Anheuser-Busch (707) 429-2000 Fair Oaks R Blue Iris Cafe 10118 Fair Oaks Blvd Fort Bragg B North Coast 444 North Main Street, 95437 (707) 964-2739 Hopland B Mendocino 13351 Highway 101, 95449 (707) 744-1015 H MCC 707 Highway 175 Lakeport R,S Main Street Liquors 150 Main Street Napa B Willett's 902 Main Street, 94559 (707) 258-BEER Nevada City M Nevada City (916) 265-2446 R Northridge Inn 19773 Nevada Street Sacramento B Hogshead 114 J Street, 95814 (916) 443-BREW B Rubicon 2004 Capitol Avenue, 95814 (916) 448-7032 S Corti Brothers 5770 Freeport Blvd, #66 P Fox & Goose 1001 R Street R Mountain Mikes Pizza 2033 Arden Way H R&R Home Fermentation Supplies 8385 Jackson Road Santa Rosa B Kelmers 458 B Street, 94501 (707) 544-4677 P Wild Hare Pub 3082 Marlow opening '89 P Ma Stokels (address unreadable) P English Rose 2074 Armory Drive H Great Fermentations of Santa Rosa 840 Piner Road, #14 Sonoma S Wine Exchange of Sonoma 452 First Street, East Truckee B Pizza Junction 11401 Donner Pass Road, 96734 (916) 587-7411 Woodland B Dead Cat Alley 666 Dead Cat Alley, 95695 (916) 661-1521 Legend M Microbrewery or Brewery B Brewpub or Brewstaurant C Contract Brewery P Pub R Restaurant or Deli S Retail Sotre H Homebrew Shop Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 15:25:33 PDT From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!mal at hplabs.HP.COM> Subject: Trub Management The recent discussion of sediment in the primary fermentor was of great interest to me, as I've struggled quite a bit over the process between the end of the boil and the beginning of fermentation. Over a succession of batches, I've finally developed a technique that results in the fermentor being filled with cool, clear wort, leaving the hot & cold breaks behind. To wit: 1. Force-cool the wort in the boiler. My present boiler isn't big enough for all-grain brewing, and since my partial-mash process produces 3.5 to 4 gallons of concentrated wort, I dilute & chill simultaneously, with ice. I invariably get a fabulous cold break. 2. Transfer the cool wort to my (sanitized) lauter tun. As I was struggling through an attempt to siphon from the boiler to the fermentor one day, my eight-year-old asked, "why don't you just use your lauter tun?" My jaw dropped. Since the wort is already cool, oxidation is not a problem. After allowing a few moments for the hops to settle, I open the tap and let the wort drain BACK INTO THE BOILER, until the stream runs clear and sediment-free. I then turn off the tap, move the lauter tun's output hose from the boiler to the carboy, turn the tap back on (a "set mash" caused by interrupting the flow is really not a problem with hops), and pour the cloudy wort back through the newly-established hops filter. About the only part of this process I really expect to change when I go to all-grain is to use an immersion chiller instead of ice. That lauter tun is the single most useful piece of equipment I've yet acquired. In addition to sparging (both grain & hops), I also use it for racking (I have but one single carboy I use for primary & secondary, so I rack into the tun, wash the carboy, then open the tap and drain it back to the carboy) and bottling. I wouldn't dream of going back to the colander. I made mine following Miller's suggestions in CHoHB, fitting a drum tap to the base of a 7-gallon plastic wastebasket, and fashioning a false bottom from the bottom 1.5" of a plastic soap pail, with .25" holes drilled on .5" centers. For use, I line it with a jelly-maker's mesh straining bag. If anyone has a better idea, I'd love to hear it! - Martin = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = pacbell!pbmoss!mal -or- mal at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 18:17 CDT From: "I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?" Subject: Death, Brewing, and Taxes Brewers all: You've all heard, I'm sure, that the U.S. Government allows one to brew 100 gallons per year for a single-person household, or 200 gallons per year for a double-person household. (This adds up to roughly 1066 bottles of beer and twice that for a two person household). I think the law also says something about the beer being for personal consumption only (in other words, don't sell it. I think you're allowed to give it away). Something I recently heard, and wondered if anyone knew for certain, was that you are supposed to file an tax form and pay a nominal fee for each batch. Anyone know for sure? What are the specifics? - Ted --- "It is more difficult to kill a fly with a sledgehammer than to do it with a rolled knighthood scroll." -- ]ke Eldberg Patrick T. Garvin ptgarvin at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu / ptgarvin at uokmax.UUCP in the Society: Padraig Cosfhota o Ulad / Barony of Namron, Ansteorra Disclaimer: Fragile. Contents inflammable. Do not use near open flame. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 18:44 CDT From: "I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?" Subject: Hot and Cold Breaks Could someone post an explanation of what hot and cold breaks are? I've made four batches of beer now, and know what to do. Now I'd like to know a bit of the why so that the how will be better too. To summarise: My first batch was an Irish Stout. I used a stout kit, added three pounds of corn sugar, and used 1 oz of Williamette hops to finish. I soaked the bottles in too strong a chlorine solution, which resulted in random beer bottles. Some of the stout was too bitter, some too sweet, and some just right. Each of the bottles too a different amount of time to age. I had some other symptoms similar to what has been described in this digest before WRT too much chlorine. Basically, it inhibited the yeast. Still, it wasn't too bad. Some of the bottles did ok. My second batch was a ginger-honey beer, and that received really rave reviews. It was an all-extract brew. I only have twelve bottles of it left. I've been told that it will be really good in another couple of months, so I've hidden them and will try them around Christmas. (I used one pound of honey.) I forgot to take hydrometer readings on this one (actually, I didn't have the time and didn't want to go to the bother of risking contamination.) so I don't know it's percentage of alcohol. I'd say about 6-9% by volume (Oklahoma only sells 3.2% by volume in the grocery store). I drank a pint and a half of it at one sitting and was somewhat buzzed and confused, so I tend to think it's closer to 9% than 6%. I used the rest of the Williamette hops for finishing. (1 1/2 oz or so). This was the batch where my friend who was going to get grated ginger forgot to do so, and left for out of town, so I rushed to my house (naturally, I had started the batch before I checked for ginger) and got ground ginger and thunked in an undetermined amount. When I bottled, the beer looked reddish brown (rather like river water around here 8)). The third batch is a spruce beer. Also an all-extract brew, I added some spruce extract, added 3 pounds of dry dark malt extract, and used 2 oz. Hallertauer hops in the boil. Added a tsp of Irish moss in the last 15 minutes. This batch really blew off lots of >gunk!< (I suspect because I had lost my hops bag, so there were hop fragments, but I really don't know) in the primary fermentation. Had a really difficult time cleaning out the blowout hose (almost time to retire it). I bottled it recently. The fourth batch is an experiment based on the rave reviews and some suggestions that I've received (namely, add a bit more fermentables). It consists of a four pound can of Edme Traditional Ale kit, John Bull Hopped Dark Extract, 2 oz. ginger, 1 1/2 pound honey, peels of four orange peels (in the boil, due to a mixup in communications. This is one I had my friend do because of time constraints), about 2 pounds corn sugar, and 2 oz. Hallertauer hops in the boil. I had meant to add the orange peels for orange flavor, but on second thought, I think their bitter quality will help offset the sweetness of the other ingredients. I also used a tsp of Irish moss. Unfortunately, I had proofed the yeast with water that was too hot, so I was greeted with no activity the next morning. I went to my house, got a spare Edme yeast packet, microwaved a half cup of water/sugar solution, cooled it down to 90 degrees, added the yeast and then added that through the neck of the carboy. This morning, I notice that fermentation has started, albeit a bit slowly (perhaps its the cool weather). - Ted --- "It is more difficult to kill a fly with a sledgehammer than to do it with a rolled knighthood scroll." -- ]ke Eldberg Patrick T. Garvin ptgarvin at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu / ptgarvin at uokmax.UUCP in the Society: Padraig Cosfhota o Ulad / Barony of Namron, Ansteorra Disclaimer: Fragile. Contents inflammable. Do not use near open flame. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 18:44 CDT From: "I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?" Subject: Hot and Cold Breaks Could someone post an explanation of what hot and cold breaks are? I've made four batches of beer now, and know what to do. Now I'd like to know a bit of the why so that the how will be better too. To summarise: My first batch was an Irish Stout. I used a stout kit, added three pounds of corn sugar, and used 1 oz of Williamette hops to finish. I soaked the bottles in too strong a chlorine solution, which resulted in random beer bottles. Some of the stout was too bitter, some too sweet, and some just right. Each of the bottles too a different amount of time to age. I had some other symptoms similar to what has been described in this digest before WRT too much chlorine. Basically, it inhibited the yeast. Still, it wasn't too bad. Some of the bottles did ok. My second batch was a ginger-honey beer, and that received really rave reviews. It was an all-extract brew. I only have twelve bottles of it left. I've been told that it will be really good in another couple of months, so I've hidden them and will try them around Christmas. (I used one pound of honey.) I forgot to take hydrometer readings on this one (actually, I didn't have the time and didn't want to go to the bother of risking contamination.) so I don't know it's percentage of alcohol. I'd say about 6-9% by volume (Oklahoma only sells 3.2% by volume in the grocery store). I drank a pint and a half of it at one sitting and was somewhat buzzed and confused, so I tend to think it's closer to 9% than 6%. I used the rest of the Williamette hops for finishing. (1 1/2 oz or so). This was the batch where my friend who was going to get grated ginger forgot to do so, and left for out of town, so I rushed to my house (naturally, I had started the batch before I checked for ginger) and got ground ginger and thunked in an undetermined amount. When I bottled, the beer looked reddish brown (rather like river water around here 8)). The third batch is a spruce beer. Also an all-extract brew, I added some spruce extract, added 3 pounds of dry dark malt extract, and used 2 oz. Hallertauer hops in the boil. Added a tsp of Irish moss in the last 15 minutes. This batch really blew off lots of >gunk!< (I suspect because I had lost my hops bag, so there were hop fragments, but I really don't know) in the primary fermentation. Had a really difficult time cleaning out the blowout hose (almost time to retire it). I bottled it recently. The fourth batch is an experiment based on the rave reviews and some suggestions that I've received (namely, add a bit more fermentables). It consists of a four pound can of Edme Traditional Ale kit, John Bull Hopped Dark Extract, 2 oz. ginger, 1 1/2 pound honey, peels of four orange peels (in the boil, due to a mixup in communications. This is one I had my friend do because of time constraints), about 2 pounds corn sugar, and 2 oz. Hallertauer hops in the boil. I had meant to add the orange peels for orange flavor, but on second thought, I think their bitter quality will help offset the sweetness of the other ingredients. I also used a tsp of Irish moss. Unfortunately, I had proofed the yeast with water that was too hot, so I was greeted with no activity the next morning. I went to my house, got a spare Edme yeast packet, microwaved a half cup of water/sugar solution, cooled it down to 90 degrees, added the yeast and then added that through the neck of the carboy. This morning, I notice that fermentation has started, albeit a bit slowly (perhaps its the cool weather). - Ted --- "It is more difficult to kill a fly with a sledgehammer than to do it with a rolled knighthood scroll." -- ]ke Eldberg Patrick T. Garvin ptgarvin at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu / ptgarvin at uokmax.UUCP in the Society: Padraig Cosfhota o Ulad / Barony of Namron, Ansteorra Disclaimer: Fragile. Contents inflammable. Do not use near open flame. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 22:18:59 MDT From: roberts%studguppy at LANL.GOV (Doug Roberts at Los Alamos National Laboratory) Subject: Achtung: Braumeistern! Ich habe mir versprochen: Dass Ich von jetzt an nur das Reinheitsgebot folge. (Very Loosly Translated: I'm going to make the switch to brewing all grain beers -- mashing, sparging, etc...) Today I ordered ~30# of Klages malted barley, some Munich, some roasted unmalted barley, and a sparger. I used the last of my extract syrup on the *slavian beer this weekend, and then succumbed to a long-suppressed desire to be a masher :-}. The stuff will arrive in a couple of days from Great Fermentations of Santa Rosa, at which time I intend to step-mash my way to ale Nirvana (can't tell I've been sampling my wares, can you?) BTW: has anyone tasted Anchor Steam's Christmas Ale yet? I had a bottle this weekend, and it is wonderful. I think their magic ingredient is roasted unmalted barley. It may just be necessary to try a Christmas ale as the first all-grain recipe. --Doug ================================================================ Douglas Roberts | Los Alamos National Laboratory |When choosing between two evils, Box 1663, MS F-602 |I always like to try the one Los Alamos, New Mexico 87545 |I've never tried before. (505)667-4569 | dzzr at lanl.gov | ================================================================ Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Oct 89 12:59:29 PDT (Wed) From: bryan at tekgen.bv.tek.com Subject: Stainless Steel Pots Full-Name: Someone posted an inexpensive mail order source for stainless steel posts a while back. I seem to have lost it now that I'm ready to buy one. Would someone with back issues please help me out? Thanks, Bryan Olson bryan at tekgen.BV.TEK.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 89 21:57:41 EDT From: capnal at aqua.whoi.edu (Alan Duester) Subject: orange Full-Name: Regarding orange for the honey lager, from Glenn Colon-Bonet and Mike Bergman: If you're not too much of a purist, you might try looking for "orange oil" at a health or natural food store, candy making supplies store, or specialty spice shop. While I haven't tried brewing with it, I use it in my orange chocolate cheesecake recipie. I would imagine that the distillation process used to make the oil would result in a much less contaminated product than messing with grated orange peel and the natural yeasts. ======================================================================== Al Duester, Ocean Engineer, MS S201 # SPAN: 6308::capnal Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution # INTERNET: capnal at aqua.whoi.edu Woods Hole, MA 02543 # GEnie: A.DUESTER (508) 548-1400 x2474 (508) 457-2000 auto-receptionist for touch tone phones ======================================================================== Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #285, 10/24/89 ************************************* -------
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