HOMEBREW Digest #289 Sat 28 October 1989

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Advice from a fellow neophyte (John DeCarlo)
  Re: Results of GABF  (Bruce Buck - Sun ECD Hardware)
  Stuck fermentation! Help! (Doug Roberts  at  Los Alamos National Laboratory)
  Re: label glues (Jason Goldman)
  Max Headroom (willa)
  end of ``Golden Beer'' State; bad return path (David do-not-trust-the-return-path Kensiski )
  Index of TCJHB in \LaTeX format (Francois Felix INGRAND)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Friday, 27 Oct 1989 09:18:08 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Advice from a fellow neophyte >From: microsoft!jamesb at uunet.uu.net >I have just recently developed an interest in the fine art of >home brewing. I have yet to brew even my first batch, I'm still >collecting equipment. What I am looking for is general words >of wisdom and warning, supply connections and ingredient suggestions, >recipes and stories. If you have any of the above and would like to >share it with the world, I for one would truly appreciate it. Well, I expect you to get some really good stories from many more experience brewers, but let me just tell you a few lessons I think I have learned :-). 1) Relax, don't worry. I made mistakes the first two times merely by being over-worried and trying to do too many things at once. The best way to avoid this is to plan ahead everything you are going to do. Even write it down the first few times. Avoid running around consulting books and such *during* the brewing process. 2) Sanitize. Use one tablespoon (1/2 ounce) of unflavored bleach per 5 gallons of water. Some claim you should rinse, others that you should just drip dry with such a weak solution. I have tried both and haven't seen a difference. So I'm not worrying. I still am glad I sanitize everything I can't boil, and it isn't all that hard if you plan in advance to have the 30 minutes or so. BTW, I use the dishwasher heated rinse and dry cycle to sanitize my bottles--I can just get the two cases to fit in there. 3) Use malt instead of sugar. If you use a kit, don't follow the directions in there at all. Get some malt to replace the sugar and boil the wort 45-60 minutes. You probably want to get some advice on finishing hops to use after a while. 4) Sparge. (Is this the correct term?) Anyway, anytime you use whole leaf or pelletized hops you need to strain as much of it out as possible. I didn't do that on my second batch (when I realized I needed some finishing hops after the wort boiled an hour) and regretted it. Even managed to get some of the pelletized hop powder into the bottles. (Still drinkable, amazingly enough.) 5) Rack before bottling and priming. Leaving behind the sediment in another container allows you to bottle all the liquid you have. I am much happier now that I learned this technique. 6) Boil the priming sugar. I generally use 3/4 cup corn sugar and boil in one pint of water. Mix it well into the beer before bottling. John "Getting more confident after four batches" DeCarlo ARPANET: M14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (or M14051%mwvm at mitre.arpa) Usenet: at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 89 10:25:46 EDT From: bbuck at East.Sun.COM (Bruce Buck - Sun ECD Hardware) Subject: Re: Results of GABF H.David Scarbro writes that in competition: Dry Beer Gold Bud Dry, Anheuser-Busch Inc, St. Louis, MO I thought that they made Michelob Dry and not Bud Dry. Also, since I live close to the Bud plant in Merrimack, NH we get something called "Anheuser" which is a great Marzen beer. Not at all something you'd expect from Anheuser-Busch. Was "Anheuser" entered in the competition? Further, the fact that Bud, Miller, Coors, et. al. won medals in the American pilsener categories should remind people that these beers are not the junk everyone says they are. They are good examples of the style. It's just that that's the only style available from the big brewers. Hence the rise of micro- and homebrewing. (Another surprise to me was that Little King's Cream Ale won a gold.) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 89 08:42:32 MDT From: roberts%studguppy at LANL.GOV (Doug Roberts at Los Alamos National Laboratory) Subject: Stuck fermentation! Help! What was the temperature in your basement, Marty? I've noticed that Edme (which I've also had good luck with) is happiest when it's primary temperature is not lower than 68 - 70 degrees. --Doug BTW: I called that recipe Sweet Darkness... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 89 09:29:17 mdt From: Jason Goldman <hp-lsd!jdg> Subject: Re: label glues Full-Name: Jason Goldman This is great to hear a discussion on this subject. An artist friend of mine has designed a series of labels for my beer (Bluestar) which I was copying onto 8 1/2 " x 11 " label stock that I got at an office supply store. I've used two different brands of label stock (Dennon [too sticky] and another brand [paper too thick]) which I haven't been real happy with. I'm moving into color labels soon and was thinking of using rubber cement to fasten the label to the bottle. I think that I will try the glue sticks instead. Thanks for the great idea! Jason Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 89 10:16:05 PDT From: willa at hpvclwa Subject: Max Headroom How much headroom? I use a pvc bottle filler. It's a rigid tube with a valve on the end. The valve opens when pushed down (against the bottom of a bottle hopefully). When the bottle is full, just remove the filler. The valve closes immediately. At that instant, beer is just seeping over the lip of the bottle. When the filler is pulled out, the beer falls to fill in the lost volume. I get a nice 1" headspace on 12 oz bottles, and about 1 1/2" on champaign bottles (due to the similar neck diameter and larger height). The headroom is very consistent. No muss, no fuss. The valve is removable for cleaning. The only drawback is that the valve leaks a little when closed. I make sure I always have an empty bottle ready to park the filler in (why does the phone always ring when I'm bottling?). I've got mail order info if anyone is interested. Cost is < $5.00. . . .Will ...!hplabs!hpvcfs1!willa or willa at hpvcfs1.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 89 14:38:20 PDT From: david%cygnus. at Sun.COM (David do-not-trust-the-return-path Kensiski ) Subject: end of ``Golden Beer'' State; bad return path Well, that's it for my ``Golden Beer'' State postings. I noticed that my return path got seriously munged up. If anyone tried to send me mail using that path, it tried to go to some Sun office and undoubtably bounced. I apologize for that. Try again with: mmsac!david at sacto.West.Sun.COM David L. Kensiski, KB6HCN Martin Marietta Data Systems Software Engineer 1540 River Park Drive, Suite 213 Phone: (916) 929-8844 Sacramento, CA 95815 UUCP: sun!sacto!mmsac!david INTERNET: mmsac!david at sacto.West.Sun.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 89 17:32:18 PDT From: felix at Warbucks.AI.SRI.COM (Francois Felix INGRAND) Subject: Index of TCJHB in \LaTeX format A couple of days ago a very kind soul send me the index to TCJHB (Charlie Papazian), which has been compiled by Steve Conklin. I have ported the index to LaTeX (but did not change the contents of the Index itself). If anybody is interested by the LaTeX version, drop me a mail. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Francois Felix INGRAND SRI International, AIC felix at AI.SRI.COM 333, Ravenswood Avenue felix%AI.SRI.COM at UUNET.UU.NET MENLO PARK, CA 94025, USA "Pourquoi tant de haine..." (Edika) "Read my Lisp... No new syntax" (nil) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #289, 10/28/89 ************************************* -------
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