HOMEBREW Digest #3092 Mon 26 July 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Evap Cooling? / Wort chill times (Tom Meier)
  Bring Brian Back (Mark Tumarkin)
  Air filtration question (Harlan Bauer)
  more on sour mash pH effects (Teutonic Brewer)
  Glycol Fermentation Temperature Control ("Bruce M. Mills")
  insecticides and hops (Ray Kruse)
  Another AHA post (Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger)
  Mash Thickness (CLOAKSTONE)
  Who/what/when/where/why ("David Kerr")
  Belgian beers? (larson.jt)
  core of AHA troubles ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
  International HomeBrewing Alliance or... International HomeBrewing Association (ThE GrEaT BrEwHoLiO)
  Tobacco Mosaic & Canning (uhlb)
  the HBD / drip pans / another stupid AHA trick ("Curt Abert")
  demise of the AHA (Marc Sedam)
  Minikeg Carbonation (Dan Listermann)
  RE: Ring Burners Needed - not complete brewstands (John Wilkinson)
  An Alternative to the AHA? (joseph_labeck_jr)
  Help!!! Need article from MBAA Technical Quarterly (Mark Wedge)
  re: drip pans (Jack Baty)
  AHA poll, Minkegs (RCAYOT)
  Maillard reactions/pCooking/boiling ... ("Stephen Alexander")
  beetles ("Stephen Alexander")
  Brian Brew Ha Ha ("Houseman, David L")
  CAP- corn (Paul Kerchefske)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 19:36:31 -0500 From: Tom Meier <tco at mindspring.com> Subject: Evap Cooling? / Wort chill times I just started extract brewing, my first batch was brimming with fusel oils (higher alcohols?) I assume due to the high fermentation temp. My crappy Beer Kit (recent gift) said ferment at WARM room temp 70-85 F. I kept it around 82 degrees thinking warmer is better. It turned out OK, expect for the BLINDING headaches after just one glass. So, the 2nd time I fermented in a small room that stays around 65 deg. F with A/C on 74. My question is this - does anyone have any experience in using EVAPORATIVE COOLING to keep the fermenter at a temperature lower than the room temperature? I don't think I want to bother with any ice blocks or foam boxes for ale, and running the A/C low gets pricey here in Alabama when its 95 (and its NOT a dry heat). I have wrapped the carboy in a clean wet towel and fanned with a small desk fan. Seems to get the fermenter about 5 degrees cooler than normal. A temp. probe wrapped in the towel showed 55 deg! Anyone have luck with this? I'd appreciate any serious responses. ========================== also, thought I would share some info on wort chillers, I just built one to keep from prechilling so much damn water to get a final mixed temp of < 80 degrees. Here's my look into how a 50 ft immersion chiller (agitated) would work for different tap water temperatures. Almost all heat transfer equations are 30% accurate at best, and note that agitation of the wort (outside of coil) is the biggest resistance to heat transfer, so pull out that big spoon and make a whirlpool, it'll cool 3-4 times faster. Required cooling times for 5 gal. boil (Minutes) | Final Wort Temps Tap Water Temps-> V 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 105 7 7 7 8 8 8 8 9 9 9 95 9 9 9 9 10 10 11 11 12 12 85 11 11 11 12 13 13 14 15 16 18 80 12 13 13 14 15 16 17 19 21 25 50 ft, 3/8 Dia, Type 'M' Copper Tubing, 3.5 GPM Overall Heat Tranfer Coeff. of 100 BTU/ft2*hr*F (Agitated) Based on Non-isothermal cooling formula, from Perry's I read all those comments from people who are using a submersible pump, or mag coupled pump for their immersion chillers (really $$ for us newbies who have yet to justify their expenses) Well, I found a small drill pump that works great in drawing water from an icebath to cool wort below the tap water temperature - a Wayne drill pump from wally world. At $4.60 its a steal compared to the ice. Puts out about 1 gallon/min at any head, self primes, if you care. Other crap I've found useful, but not widely available Temp. SG Correction 60 0 70 0.001 77 0.002 84 0.003 95 0.005 105 0.007 110 0.008 113 0.009 118 0.01 Actual = Reading + Correction Or for the REALLY precise.. SGC(T)= 62.37-[ -8E-05*T^2 + 0.0037*T + 62.437]/62.37 T[deg F], good for 60<T<120 One other thing that was not immediately obvious to me was to mix 3 temperatures of water and get the right temp and volume, add up the tempXvolume of each one, and divide by total volume to get the final mixed temp. Ended up too hot because I didnt think that one through beforehand and only prechilled a gallon or so. ========================================= Check out this recent post... >if you continue to insult me >I will definitely demonstrate how (for the first time) to tear a newbie from >limb to limb. > >Happy Brewing >Phil Yates. I like the part where he mentions permanent disfigurement and then wishes us all happy brewing! What a swell guy, I think he really cares. Or how about this thread, now 4 weeks at the top of the charts... >My /English/ dictionary on >the other hand defines doctor as a "qualified medical practitioner" or a >"holder of a doctorate." I am so glad to be able to have the insightful and useful information posted here on this forum. Please keep up the great posts guys! I am learning more everyday. Also, I especially enjoy the ones where people fight back and forth about science vs craftmanship and call each other names and stuff. -T Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 20:44:45 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Bring Brian Back A few days ago I got the following message from Brian Rezac, and the same message then appeared in the HBD-- >Fellow Brewers and Beer Enthusiasts, >I've been fired...given the boot, axed, bounced, canned, discharged, >disemployed, dropped, let go, sacked, terminated. It's the policy of >the Association of Brewers not to announce such happenings, but I just >wanted to let you know and to tell you all how much I've enjoyed my >time at the American Homebrewers Association. Especially being able >to work for, and with, such a wonderful group of people...homebrewers. >Thanks for the ride! >PS - I'm in the Longmont, Colorado phonebook and I've set up an email >account at brianrezac at hotmail.com, although I don't know when I'll >have access to it. Keep in touch. >Slainte! >Brian Rezac This really is unbelievable. I have only been brewing for about three years, and have been a member of the AHA from the start. At first mainly because I wanted to subscribe to Zymurgy. The friend that got me started brewing had a large collection of back issues that seemed really interesting. I took the info from one and subscribed/joined (it seemed pretty much the same thing). I will say that the current incarnation of Zymurgy is much diminished from the past. Since then I have become aware that a sizable number of homebrewers have become 'disenchanted' with the AHA for a variety of reasons such as Charlie's salary (though personally I say more power to him), tax issues, and mostly a percieved lack of interest or response from the powers that be at the AHA/AOB. There have been conflicts with the BJCP, etc. As I said, I am relatively new to homebrewing so I really don't know all the background or history, but I certainly am aware of the widespread sentiment. In addition, in just the last several years there has been a tremendous turnover in personnel at the AHA. For a while it seemed like the functional part of the AHA was just Brian Rezac. Then Paul came aboard, and between the two of them it seemed that a change had occured. I met Brian Rezac in 1998, as a direct result of a post to the HBD asking about who was going to the GABF that year, and suggesting that we get together to meet each other. Brian wrote me and said it was a great idea, and he was working on expanding it. Well, he talked to Chris Black of the Falling Rock and we ended up with the downstairs cigar room at the Falling Rock as a meeting place. In addition, Brian got beer donations from Tabernash and a couple of other breweries for us. We had a great time. Brian and I became good friends. Through him, I also spent time as a homebrew club volunteer at the AHA table that year, and last year as well. These are typical of the way Brian reached out and interacted with the homebrew community. And I know I'm not alone, there are many homebrewers that I know that have become good friends with Brian in similar ways. Phil Wilcox, Jim Brangan, Rob Moline, Mike Bardalis come to mind as well as many others. Basically, Brian is the kind of person we homebrewers need at the AHA. I find it impossible to understand why Charlie and the other powers that be have done this. It certainly can't be poor performance or lack of work. Any one who was at this year's National Convention knows how hard Brian worked. It was obvious throughout the conference. It was also obvious if you ever called the AHA - at any time- it was always Brian who answered the phone and helped in any way he could. This year the Natl Convention was in large part turned over to the member clubs to put on, in large part because of lack of resources and time on the part of the AHA staff. Without Brian this will get worse. Not the Convention, the KC clubs did a great job - I'm talking about the lack of staff and resources at the AHA. What will suffer next? At the convention, Charlie talked about the fall off in interest in homebrewing and the need to bring in new people to rebuild interest in the hobby. Brian had been doing that all along. His Big Brew program was a great idea and generated a lot of positive interest in the hobby accross the country. There are many more examples of the way Brian worked to help both homebrewers and the AHA. There has been a lot said about the fact that the AHA is 'member driven.' Is this true, or is it just lip service? Brian certainly worked for the membership, was that the problem? Already there have been a number of posts on the HBD with overwhelming support for Brian. A number of people such as Scott Abene and Eric Fouch have already mentioned the possibility of forming another, more brewer-oriented and responsive organization. This might be a possibility - certainly there are many parts of the homebrewing community that might want to participate in such a venture. The MCAB, the HBD, the BJCP, various brewing magazines other than Zymurgy, and many others. I'm not saying all of these would be interested, or even that this would be a good idea - but it is possible. With Brian to head or organize it, it would be off to a good start. But that's not my idea at the moment. I'd like to ask all of you who know Brian, or of him and his work, to think about it for a moment. If, like I do, you feel that Brian is the kind of person you want at the AHA, then write to Charlie, to Bob Pease (AOB VP), to Paul, to all the members of the AHA board of directors, and let them know how you feel. Ask them to Bring Back Brian. I know that there are members of the board of advisors that are HBDrs and I hope feel the same way that we do about Brian. You are our representatives - please help Bring Brian Back. Write to: charlie at aob.org bob at aob.org paul at aob.org ahaboa at aob.org - the board of advisors If you are really pissed off about this whole thing, you can ask to have your membership cancelled and the balance refunded to you. That might get their attention. Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, Fl Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 20:30:43 -0500 From: Harlan Bauer <blacksab at midwest.net> Subject: Air filtration question Hi, Does anyone have any good ideas for sterile filtering compressed air? I've built a yeast propagator that incorporates continuous aeration, and I am not comfortable using unfiltered air. Please note that I'm talking about a 10-gallon vessel with ~5-gal innoculum continuously aerated for 12-24 hours. TIA, Harlan Bauer, Head Brewer Copper Dragon Brewing Co. Carbondale, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 20:06:31 -0600 From: Teutonic Brewer <claassen at swcp.com> Subject: more on sour mash pH effects Mark Bayer makes a good point. Although the sour mash will lower the overall mash pH, the reduction in enzyme life time and activity is fairly gradual at more acidic pH (compared to a high pH above 6.0 where the enzymes die off very quickly), so in general you have nothing to worry about. The optimal pH is traditionally 5.2 to 5.3, and I'm sure my pale Hefe-Weizen mash is below that, but I still get my usual 80-85% extraction rate. My normal sour mash amounts are 5-8% of the malt bill for a dark lager, 8-10% for a pale lager, and up to 15% for a pale Hefe-Weizen. The dark malts help lower the mash pH, so darker beers require less sour mash (see Ray Daniels' Designing Great Beers on the bottom of page 66 for a good discussion on the effects of dark malts on mash pH). In addition to the sour mash, I practice an intensive water treatment regimen here in Albuquerque due to the carbonate water (125 mg/l of alkalinity as CaCO3). I add calcium salts (typically 50ppm calcium) and then either preboil or use slaked lime (see HBD archives for slaked lime) to knock the carbonate out. If you do have carbonate water, the sour mash can be used to neutralize the bicarbonate and achieve a mashable pH. I did some back of the envelope calculations that told me I would need an excessive amount of sour mash, so I knock a major part of the carbonate out beforehand. Prost! Paul Claassen (Teutonic Brewer) Albuquerque, Chile Republic of New Mexico Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 23:27:51 -0400 From: "Bruce M. Mills" <thebrumeister at cyberzone.net> Subject: Glycol Fermentation Temperature Control Is anyone using a glycol temperature control system for their fermentor ? I have a 1/2 bbl stainless steel conical fermentor I am thinking of upgrading. Did you build or purchase it ? What is the product name, if so? Is the system automated, and/or digitally controlled ? Are coils located in the fermentor, or exterior perimeter? What style of beer have you fermented with the system, and at what temperature ? What was the cost, and is it worth the cost and effort ? Would you recommend one ? Any info would be appreciated. Bruce M. Mills Hancock, New Hampshire Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 05:08:48 -0400 From: Ray Kruse <kruse2 at flash.net> Subject: insecticides and hops I don't know if Sevin will kill Japanese Beetles, but if you read the package label, it is recommended for use on a number of food plants, with a nominal delay from application to harvesting the plant of about a week. Malathion and Diazinon are also food approved pesticides, with a delay between application and harvest. If you use one of these, and then delay harvesting the cones for a couple of weeks after the beetle infestation is over, the hops should be usable. You could always boil a few cones to see if there is any odor or flavor of the insecticide in the hop tea. Ray Kruse Glen Burnie, PRMd rkruse at bigfoot.com "When you rob Peter to pay Paul, you always have the support of Paul." George Bernard Shaw Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:07:15 -0400 From: Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger <katerob at erols.com> Subject: Another AHA post First, a question: who is Brian Rezac? I've been brewing for a little over a year now, and have just passed the one hundred gallon mark. I also just joined the AHA, not because of who worked there, but because I was interested in the magazine, the web site, the competition program, the information, and of course the dream of one day attending the Great American Beer Festival (so many beers...). The past few digests have been heavy on indignant posts about the internal workings of the AHA, with a few suggestions of boycott, forming a new organization, etc. There have also been a lot of good ideas about what that organization could be, and how benefits might be structured (read 'what potential and former members *really* want'). One thing that might be helpful is to put those ideas to work at the AHA instead of taking your dues and starting another club. I imagine that the AHA and their umbrella organization has a pretty extensive infrastructure that would be costly to re-create for a new international club (though I agree that if I lived in another country than a North American one, I might find the 'American' off-putting). I suggest that communities like this one are an important voice that the AHA listens to, and the experience I've seen on this digest would be a *great* complement to the AHA. I've copied this message to Paul Gatza (thanks for your recent post to the list, Paul), and maybe we can all start some healthful dialog with the AHA about how members want to 1. Brew great beer 2. Learn about the world's brewing traditions 3. Meet other people who love beer 4, Make hombrewing a legal, vibrant hobby, and a viable business for local homebrew shops in all fif-- excuse me, all over the world. - -- Rob Hanson Washington, DC - ---- "...They have worked their will on John Barleycorn But he lived to tell the tale, For they pour him out of an old brown jug And they call him home brewed ale." Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:55:04 EDT From: CLOAKSTONE at aol.com Subject: Mash Thickness Re: mash thickness: my thanks to the "real" scientists in the community. For me to claim that appellation would be a travesty indeed! S. Alexander provides data on mash thickness and fermentability. The puzzle remains a bit unsolved for me, though, as I wonder if there is enough of a difference between 1.25qt/pound and 1.7 qt./pound - can anyone out there confirm whether PU, as an example, mashes in with an extremely wet mash - 3qt./pound? I would love to see Hall's study go further out to this realm, and see the results. The point about thermal mass is well taken. The postings seem to refer though, to availability of substrate-enzyme reactions, with freer mobility, etc. My original point was this: if a thinner mash provides a greater amount of energy to the soup, and beta is more heat labile than alpha, then wouldn't one expect a more ready denaturing of available beta v. available alpha; the discussions of availability (rate of diffusion, etc.) don't seem relevant to me. Of course, I took no courses in kinetics or biochem...so I stand courageously ready to be corrected. Of course, we could just try a trial, as I originally suggested (90 at 145, 3 qts/pound v. 1 qts./pound, or something like that). -Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 09:05:04 -0400 From: "David Kerr" <dkerr at semc.org> Subject: Who/what/when/where/why Rich Sieben commented: >you probalby wouldn't know where I am even if I told you, so who really >cares about that anyway? silliness isn't it>? Not too silly - read on. Joy Hansen then wrote: >So, use of milky spore (I think this is called BT) on your property and >that of your neighbors will kill off the beetles. Joy's post did have the phrase "here in Scottsburg" in it - I'm not keen enough on my geography to know where Scottsburg is. Here in MA, BT has been tried by several of my neighbors in an attempt to control the Jap. beetle grub's destruction of their lawns. Apparently, the BT organism doesn't winter over well in New England, and my neighbors' enviro-friendly actions went for naught. Merit is the grub control of choice here. Dave Kerr - Needham, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 09:10:27 -0400 From: larson.jt at pg.com Subject: Belgian beers? A friend recently brought me two .75L bottles of beer from Belgium. I plan to try them soon, but would appreciate any description available. One he described as "dishwater flavor" (Yum). They are both made by "F. Boon". One is a "Kriek", the other a "Geuze". Any help is appreciated. Todd Cincinnati Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 09:11:38 -0400 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: core of AHA troubles In #3089 Paul responds in regards to Brian"s dismissal: >>"Brian was in a probationary period and unfortunately did not meet the terms of that probation.<<" How cute, most "probationary periods" are about 90 days, not 3 years. I makes me wonder who was watching over him during this period? Why did it take so long to figure out he was a disorganized liar? Whose decision was it to remainder out the "Classic Styles" series with no warning to the homebrew wholesalers or shops? I don't think that was Brian"s decision. Who thinks that after the devaluation of $200 worth of my stock that I should risk that with the new, more expensive, "Classics II" series? You see in business it is always the manager that is responsible for what goes on with the "line", but it is always the lower schmuck that is held responsible; you know, the old "shxt rolls downhill" adage and "the cream rises to the top", well sometimes turds float too. Then Paul says, >>"But it is because I work for the members that I had to make a change to protect the interests of the members who entrust us with dues to promote the hobby of homebrewing ..<<" Well it hasn't happened for years and you're seeing the result. So you see that I am not _all_venom and have at least one constructive concept; put the club only competitions back on a regular schedule, so brewers know that Weiss is Nice is July, Best of Fest is October, Stout Bout is January...etc. So brewers can brew to a plan ahead of time from year to year and participate. If you want something to change or some "other" category put it at the end of the cycle so, again, the brewers have notice. Oh yeah, and make sure the judging points get registered, it won't work if the "organization" gets its' money and the judges get screwed. Just a little pissed in Pittsburgh... N.P. (Del) Lansing Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 09:25:20 -0400 (EDT) From: ThE GrEaT BrEwHoLiO <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: International HomeBrewing Alliance or... International HomeBrewing Association Hi, I would be interested in hearing from clubs and homebrewers about the possibility of starting the International HomeBrewing Alliance or... International HomeBrewing Association. I may be wrong. I may be nuts but I really believe that a true grass roots effort and alliance amongst homebrewers is out there wanting to come out. Lemme know. -Scott === ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT Scott Abene <skotrat at mediaone.net> http://skotrat.dynip.com/skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) "The More I know about beer politics, The more I wish I made 120k" _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 07:45:05 -0600 (MDT) From: uhlb at cobank.com Subject: Tobacco Mosaic & Canning I'd not heard of the tobacco mosaic issue with using nicotine as a garden poison. I've been using this method for years with stale pipe tobacco and not had a single problem. OTOH, I've not really used it for aught in the nightshade family. Perh. it's an issue with the cheaper products such as cigarettes (wh. are mostly chemicals and paper IIRC anyway). Or perh. I've just been lucky. Maybe I'll plant a tomato to see... BTW, an interesting bit of trivia is that tobacco is fermented during its aging process. Snuff (real snuff, not Copenhagen) is fermented a second time. Dave Burley seems to think that I can at low temperatures. Actually, I don't can at all. What I had meant to convey was that you can reheat canned green beans by immersing the can in water and bringing to a boil. For some reason (I have a theory or two, but they're prob. nonsense), this results in green beans which taste _almost_ fresh. Not nearly as good as real green beans, but much better than normal dumped-out-of-the-can beans. I first learned this trick when I went to the National Jamboree at Fort A.P. Hill in Scouts. And no, the can does not explode, as some of my aquaintance seem to believe. So I'm afraid that the life insurance policy wouldn't do you much good Dave:-) Bob Uhl Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 08:54:54 -0500 From: "Curt Abert" <abert at flanders.isgs.uiuc.edu> Subject: the HBD / drip pans / another stupid AHA trick Greetings! Jim Kingsberg expressed his view of the HBD: > The HBD is serving basically two types of homebrewers; the > newbie and the scientist. There will always be rants unrelated to brewing > and they will generally die quiet deaths. Yes, there are newbies, and there are hard-core brewers who *love* the scientific aspects of brewing, but there are many others in between. There is certainly place for all, including recipe givers, gadgeteers, those who search for historic beers, etc. The range of discussion topics is vast, although summertime usually means less talk about actually brewing (like this post!). - ----- Adam Holmes asks about drip pans... I purchases a stainless drip pan for use with my 3-tap keggerator. It was only $25, and does not have a drain. I decided it would be easier to clean a drainless tray than try to rig up something to deal with a tray with a drain (like I want to have a bucket of stale beer in the fridge...). It can hold quite a bit of foam and drips, and really isn't any big deal to clean. I usually wash it once a week (with my 'normal' usage), or after a party. Mine doesn't seem to get smelly. Actually, the drips usually dry up and there isn't any mold growth. Of course YMMV. - ------ Yet again, the AHA seems to do us all a dis-service, and fires Brian Rezac, the only one at the AHA who really seemed to even *care* about the homebrewing community at large. Paul, who used to post here and seemed to genuinely care about the community, towed the company line in defending Brian's release. I sure hope Jethro knows what he is getting into, and more power to him if he can promote change for the better (but I'm not going to hold my breath...). For those who may not know... YMMV = Your Milage May Vary, meaning your results may be different than mine. It is just an abbreviation that used to be used *alot* on a kinder and gentler HBD. Cheers! Curt Abert Champaign IL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:02:31 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: demise of the AHA I, too, canceled my membership to the AHA some years back. This was mitigated by two factors and confirmed by two more: (1) I never did understand what the "Association" did anyway. All I ever got from them was Zymurgy and offers to buy more stuff...oh yes, and a coaster. Besides, the advent of Brewing Techniques provided a publication with more interesting information to me personally (No, I'm not totally objective on this one as I've been published in BT; I did have a subscription for five years before the article was printed, though.) (2) That god-awful "special" issue of Zymurgy titled "Why We Brew." I didn't pay for a magazine to tell me why other people brew. I could care less. Give me information I could use in my brewing or tell me WHAT other people do, but not why unless the why is related to the what. The fact that they spent a full 17% of my subscription on such a topic (more appropriate for a "free" forum like the HBD) made me immediately cancel my subscription since the value was totally non-existent. (3) After canceling my original subscription I won another year's subscription in a competition [killer barley wine, by the way]. I never received one copy. When the competition organizer called the AHA, he was told the situation would be repaired that day. I never received one issue. It's a terrible day when an organization which is supposed to support homebrewing can't even live up to its commitment to provide a prize in a homebrewing competition. Finally (4)...When the old issues of the "Brewing in Styles" series went out of print, I've been told (yes, it's third hand, but a reliable source) that the AHA sold these books for between $1-$2 to a giant mega-mega book store (I'll give you two guesses...) to get rid of old stock. They weren't even offered to the homebrew store community on the cheap to promote sales. I know of several HB shops who refuse to carry any of the new BiS books or Zymurgy because of this complete betrayal of the AHA's roots. Do you think the AHA could have survived if local homebrew shops didn't stock Zymurgy? Would readership have ever grown? I think not. The demise of the AHA is its own fault through lack of leadership (3 directors in the last 4-5 years!!) and failure to know its audience. If Paul Gatza's assertion that Brian couldn't handle the administrative aspects of his job is true, get the man some help! If Brian is winning back support of the AHA (I admit his presence on this forum *almost* made me participate in Big Brew) then you need to let him loose where he's succeeding and find assistance where he needs help. It's how you manage an organization. Just from seeing his posts here, it's clear that he was not totally incompetent and a little effective management could have worked wonders. When promising employees don't live up to expectations the blame must be shared with management. The AHA should ask itself how it could help its employees instead of simply firing them when they don't meet all expectations. BTW, as a non-profit, can't the AHA's financial records be requested by any of it's members??? Just a thought. BTW, I fully support a new grass-roots homebrewing organization and am willing to provide whatever services/ support that I can to the endeavor. Cheers! Marc Sedam Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 09:59:56 -0400 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Minikeg Carbonation Jeff Hall ( hallj at targen.com ) writes to complain about the carbonation levels that he is finding in his 5l minikegs. I really like the size of these kegs and think that they have a great future in homebrewing. They are perfect for the homebrewer who wants to dump bottling, but cannot dedicate a whole fridge to 5 gal corny kegs. There are some severe problems with the system. The kegs can over carbonate and bluge. This does irrepairable damage to the keg. For about a year we have been marketing "Phil's Relieph Bung" ( no stinking trademark symbol needed). It is a minikeg bung that has been modified with a pressure relief valve built into it. The kegs bluge at about 60 psi. The Relieph Bung is designed to vent around 30 psi and close at about 20 psi to protect the keg. Please note that the Bung is not meant to control carbonation levels, it is there to protect the keg. I use one tablespoon of corn sugar per keg to carbonate. This has always served me very well. If more carbonation is desired, more sugar could be added, but I would not do that without a Relieph Bung. The other severe problem with 5l mini kegs is the taps. The German taps are expensive, fragile and not very reliable. They can leak and are easily broken. Starting next week we will be introducing the "Philtap." ( again, no stinking trademark symbol required) It is constructed of plated brass and copper with a detachable plastic 12g CO2 dispenser ( the kind used to inflate bike tires). It has a very low profile requiring only an inch of space above the keg when operated vertically. The dip tube is curved so that it can be operated horizontally for an even lower profile so that it will fit on a lower shelf of your fridge for enhanced spousal acceptability. The faucet is the common, proven picnic tap. They should be priced somewhere between the two German taps. Ask your local retailer to call us! Dan Listermann dan at listermann.com 72723.1707 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 09:15:51 -0500 From: John.Wilkinson at aud.alcatel.com (John Wilkinson) Subject: RE: Ring Burners Needed - not complete brewstands Brett wrote, >I have been searching the internet and emailing suppliers and hb shops >looking to buy only the cast ring burners and hoses w/regulators for adding >to my new brewstand. But so far no luck finding them as loose parts. Any >recommendations or sources people know of for these things? I, too, had a hard time finding a burner but finally stumbled onto them at a propane gas supplier in East Texas. I had looked all over Dallas and found what was purported to be a 170,000 btu burner but wasn't. They had both kind at the East Texas propane dealer and that guy knew a hell of a lot more than the guy at the grill specialty store in Dallas. Cheaper too. Look for a rural propane supplier. Those guys seem more familiar with propane burners than the fancier city stores. At least around here. John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 11:16:17 +0000 From: joseph_labeck_jr at email.com Subject: An Alternative to the AHA? Hi, folks; During the last round of AHA complaints (last year?), I had posted a comment about us folks of the HBD being a possible nucleus for a new organization. I got a couple of people who said they felt very much like I did. They didn't have the time or where-withal to devote to the task, but were willing to help. I think the time has now come to fish or cut bait, stand up and be counted or forever hold our peace, s--- or get off the pot. One thing has recently changed. I have even less money than I did back then (which wasn't much), but I have LOADS of time, since I just lost my job. I'm willing to work for a new, grassroots, member- driven organization. I'd like to hear from Brian about his termination. Having just gone through it myself, I can sympathize. And I realize that his perception of the situation may be very different from what we get from Paul Gatza's post. I think it's time we do something, instead of complaining about what isn't being done. Joe Labeck - die-hard extract brewer Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 11:13:34 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Wedge <markwedge at yahoo.com> Subject: Help!!! Need article from MBAA Technical Quarterly I was reading through some back issues of Brewing Techniques last night and came across an article in the Gleanings from the Field column that I am interested in. It is an item about Continuous Specific Gravity Monitor. It says that the article is in the MBAA technical Quartely 35(2), pp. 78-83(1998). I was wondering if anyone has this and can get me a copy of the article. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in Advance Mark A. Wedge _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 14:50:54 -0500 (CDT) From: Jack Baty <jack at wubios.wustl.edu> Subject: re: drip pans > 2) How do you maintain your drip trays? Do these things get smelly fast? > > 3) Anyone ever make their own drip tray? I'm looking for cheap first and > beauty second. > > Thanks, > Private email OK > > Adam Holmes I made my own drip pan based, I think, on an idea on got from the homebrew digest quite a while back. My drip pan is simply a plastic trough used for wetting wallpaper. The pan is about two feet long, five inches wide, and five inches deep. It's on the floor under my two taps. It's big enough that it could handle several more. What's special is that it's got a one-inch layer of rock salt in the bottom of it. This seems to keep drips and spills from growing mold or bacteria. Plus, it doesn't smell. I've been using this for well over a year now. I've only changed the salt once and that was when I found that my brother-in-law had been pouring the foam out of his glass into the trough so he could get a full pint. Jack Baty St. Louis MO Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Jul 1999 14:53:19 -0400 From: RCAYOT at solutia.com Subject: AHA poll, Minkegs first to the AHA question. The AHA serves one very important function and that is the focal point of various homebrew clubs, and some homebrew contests. beyond that, nothing I can see that would benefit me, and little else to benefit a new homebrewer. A new brewer would be better served by joining a local homebrew club. That said, if there was an organization that would take up the club and contest organizing efforts of the AHA, and focus on helping people brew better beer, heck, I would join even without a useless magazine! I certainly hope that the advertising efforts about homebrewing have an effect, we are having a hard time keeping our clubs membership stable, never mind growing! Mini-kegs:Jeff Hall asks about mini-kegs. Well my experience was mixed, I liked them for a while, but outgrew them. I liked the convenience of having a large format container at bottling time to save time and energy. I also liked the beer I got from the keg, but several things needed to be done. the first is get the better keg regulator/dispenser, there IS a difference between the Stainless and the plastic! Second is the need to relieve the pressure, and dispense into a pitcher. I found that if you just open up and dispense into a pitcher, then let the foam subside, it would have a reasonable amount of carbonation, and seemed to taste better than the bottled version. (I always had trouble with that, how can container size effect the taste of the brew? Is it surface to volume? Is surface hazardous to beer?) anyway, this works, especially if you are serving more people like at a party. I found that the cartridges worked for pushing out beer after the initial perssure wore off, and a little for keeping th ecarbonation in the beer, but it is not the same as having the control of a real pressure regulator on a keg. when I got my kegs, I have never bottled since! I couldn't say that I never wanted to bottle when I had mini-kegs. Good luck. In fact, I have recently been thinking of resurecting my mini's I have found out that the "carbonator" fits the threads on my mini regulator, so next homebrew club meeting, I can take 5 liters and have it under CO2 (from my kegging system, and bring a single cartridge for dispense aid), and keep some pressure on the beer a while. I usually take a half gallon of beer in a growler (half gallon jug!) to the meetings, which works okay, but has a very short life, and after about an hour, if there is any beer left, it is pretty flat, and about then, I asm wishing I had brought it in a mini! Roger Ayotte Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 15:37:41 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Maillard reactions/pCooking/boiling ... Some Sci Content - page down anyway. Someone said ... >An easy way to boil things under pressure is to fill a Mason jar all the >way with water, then place in a pot of water and bring to boil. The point of pressure cooking is NOT to achieve head pressure at 212F and thus prevent a boil as this method does, but to reach a controlled elevated temp (~35F higher at 15psig for example). When treating wort this way maillard reactions which produce flavor active compounds (including many described as 'malty') occur at a significantly higher rate at higher temp as I posted in the archives. If you provide a boil at these elevated temps, the flocculation and hops utilization are amazing too. - -- Steven Smith asked about pCooking extract/partial mash. Haven't tried it, but there is no good reason to think it would not be effective. - --- It appears that there are good reasons to expect better maillard results from a thick pressure cooked decoction pull !! Something I haven't tried yet. Microwave and steam heating of baked cooks never achieves the proper combination of moisture and temp at the surface of baked goods to create Maillard products. Interesting that pCooking wort is as effective as it is.- since the saturated water condition is not ideal either. It's just conjecture at the moment, but I suspect that 'baking' or pressure cooking dampened and acidified malt *might* be a lot more effective at creating desirable malty flavors even than pressure cooking wort. So why doesn't munich or melanoidin malt solve the 'malty sandwich' quest ? Maybe freshness is the issue. A lot of the flavor compounds are volatile. Anyone who has made crystal or dark malts at home knows the major aroma decline that take place in a matter of days or weeks after kilning. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 16:31:09 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: beetles >So, use of milky spore (I think this is called BT) on your property and >that of your neighbors will kill off the beetles. I looked into this a while back. BT - (Bacillus Thurengensis) is rated as INEFFECTIVE as a control for Japanese beetle grubs by several state departments of agriculture. Several have web sites. It's probably just an expensive waste of time & effort in Ohio,KY and several surrounding states. It caused only a small drop in infestation levels in one long term study. This product is heavily hyped locally tho'. Best use for j.beetle traps - gifts to your neighbors. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 19:02:42 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Brian Brew Ha Ha It's amazing how some people on this forum just have to sound off on things when they don't know the facts. Do you just like to see your thoughts in print? When the AHA had problems in organizing the NHC in Boston, some folks here took them to task! When there were a number of competitions without BJCP points recorded, the AHA got the worst of the comments. But when Paul took corrective action, again there's stupid calls for boycotts. Let me ask those that want to stumble about in the dark what they would do? The AHA staff is down to two full time people (although there is some support staffs in the AOB). Organization isn't working out like it is supposed to be. So what do they do? Can't afford to hire more people. It's an unfortunate business decision that Paul took but a courageous one. Personally, I really like Brian as well. He's the sort of people we want in the hobby and in the AHA. But if the AHA is to help their members by providing the services you want, then they have to have the ability to staff accordingly to make that happen. Get all the facts, then think about it before sounding off.... Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Jul 99 17:44:22 PDT From: Paul Kerchefske <fritz6 at netscape.net> Subject: CAP- corn I usually take notes on things I might need to use at some time,but I can't recall what type of corn is preferred in a CAP. Being a northerner corn grits are not very popular around here. I looked at the grocery store and what I found was hominy -white grits (instant), next to oatmeal in the cereal isle. I have also found ground corn meal. I also have access to regular flaked corn for brewing. Thanks,Paul. ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com. Return to table of contents
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