HOMEBREW Digest #3198 Sat 18 December 1999

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  RE: Scaling Up - The Next Step? (MaltHound)
  Budvar and malt ("Dr. Pivo")
  big bones (Tom Lombardo)
  Classical Music (Elizabeth Blades)
  (no subject) (DKing99)
  solstice and full moon ("Sean Richens")
  Oxygenator regulator. (Michael Kowalczyk)
  Hugh Baird ("Don Van Valkenburg")
  What If I want to build a brewery? ("Don Glass")
  Boom goes the Propane... ("John Stegenga")
  Re: More steam (RobertJ)
  false bottom design - any experience out there? ("J. Doug Brown")
  Controlling Fermentation Temperature (Harley Ellenberger)
  Chiller coils (Dave Hinrichs)
  re: Cask breathers for cornies (Paul Kensler)
  beer/alcohol regulations ("Larry Maxwell")
  Sydney Olympics and beer ("Bruce Garner")
  Re: Cask Ale Pressure Problem ("Bruce Garner")
  5 L Minikegs (Dan Listermann)
  Diets (Eric Schoville)
  More on hop teas, new hops ("Bill Riel")
  Beer Engine Problems (Eric Schoville)
  millenium. . .milli vanilli? (MVachow)
  Reverse flow RIMS revisited ("John Watts")
  Fad Diets (The Artist Formerly Known As Kap'n Salty)
  Propane Dangers! (Dave Humes)
  Yeast profiles (Headduck)
  Outside lines... (Some Guy)
  Urquell and green bottles ("Don Van Valkenburg")
  Propane indoors (Rob Dewhirst)
  Dangers of propane indoors (Ken Pendergrass)
  A little propane can be a dangerous thing ("Sean Richens")
  Carbonation level (Bruce & Amber Carpenter)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:23:51 EST From: MaltHound at aol.com Subject: RE: Scaling Up - The Next Step? In HBD3195 Steven J. Owens" <puff at netcom.com> wrote Subject: Scaling Up - The Next Step?: << However, I'm loathe to start spending wads of cash on equipment (a couple hundred bucks for a burner, a couple hundred bucks for a nice, larger pot, probably need a wort chiller at this point, should think about going all-grain) without looking at the options. Should I just jump past that to something more elegant, not to mention maybe easier to clean? >> Several folks have given you fairly moderate alternatives to the expensive "all out" approach, and any of these may be suitable to you. However, since you are not sure if all-grain brewing is for you might want to try a couple of things before you plunk down your cash on that wizz-bang brewing set-up. Optimum situation: Find an all-grain brewer and make a batch with them to see how much you like the process in general. Also, you will get ideas on how to manufacture and customize your own brewery to your available brewing environment. Alternative frugal Yankee approach: Assuming you are already a homebrewer, there are really only 3 additional pieces of equipment to make a jump to all-grain full-mash brewing. Brew kettle large enough to boil > 5 gallons. The cheapest way out is to buy a 33 quart porcelean on steel canning kettle at the local hardware store. These are ~$30 and even should you decide you are not going to g all-grain all the time, it still makes a good brew kettle, allowing for full volume boils in extract batches. It's also handy for the occasional lobster/crab/fish boil should you give up brewing someday altogether. I can tell you from first hand experience that it is quite possible to boil 6 gallons of wort in one of these on an electric stove top by spanning two burners. Chiller. Since you are going to boil the full volume you will probably want a way to get the boiled wort down to yeast pitching temperature. There is anecdotal evidence that says that this is really not absolutely necessary and that you can just let the wort cool on it's own, however there are many arguments that say this is not a good thing, not the least of which is that it allows you to pitch your yeast quicker and beat the bad critters (bacteria) to the goods. It also means the beer will be finished just that much sooner! A fully functional immersion chiller can be easily made from a coil of refrigeration tubing for another $30. This too will be a completely useful item should you later decide that the mashing life is not for you. The last item you will need is a place to lauter your mash. The reason I say lauter and not mash is that it is perfectly acceptable to mash in the same vessel (kettle) that you will later boil in. In fact, for single infusion mashes, placing the mash tun (kettle) in a preheated oven will hold your mash temp quite nicely for the time required for conversion. A perfectly serviceable lauter tun can be made for absolutely free, and with relatively little effort, a la the Zapap. A Zapap is the homemade "bucket in a bucket" style lauter tun described in the Papazian "Joy of Homebrewing" books. Sure, if you later decide you want to stick with the mashing program you can make more efficient, fancier mash and lauter in the same vessel type rigs, but the cost of the much maligned Zapap can not be beat with a big stick. Finding used food grade buckets at the local doughnut shop and drilling some holes in the inner bucket is a cinch. Even this device has some potential utility (as a hop back) should you move either on to a fancier lauter/mash tun or gravitate back to the ease of extract brews. By spending very little on testing your desire to brew all-grain you may be saving yourself a serious wad of cash. I personally know a couple of pepole that dropped out of brewing altogether after investing huge amounts of time and $$ mostly due to persdonal time limitations. OTOH, should you decide like many of us that this is a lot of fun, you can buy (or make) the right equipment to fulfill your needs. At that point you'll probably want to buy the gas burner and 15 gallon kettle and put together the fancy mash / lauter tun (RIMS maybe?) that will accomodate 10 gallon batches. Just another option for you. (like you didn't have enough choices already!) Regards, Fred Wills Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 17:55:25 +0100 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: Budvar and malt Some discussion, suppositions, and opinions have been given on this subject. A few facts, and some of my own opinions. 1) Budvar has 4 malt suppliers rather than one. 2) They have a difficult time being supplied with under modified malts, as the malting scene in Czecho has chased the brewing scene, that is, many are opting for modern methods. 3) Budvar has made IMO a very good effort at trying to retain the original product, and when modernising, rather than replace wholesale with modern equipment, they have thought through the process nicely and designed in order to retain traditional conditions (witness their custom made "fat boy" CKT's rather than purchasing the available tall things, in order to more emulate pressure conditions of the old open ferments). 4) Budvar's good economic status is primarily based on them concentrating on the export market, letting them avoid the price and restructure war that is presently taking place (I believe they were at 53 percent export at last look--- compare the planned Plzen/Radegast fusion and 44 percent of the home market). 5) Probably the most positive and trustworthy comments attributable to Budvar I have heard, come from Brewmasters at other breweries. Budvar is the only one of the big ones that consistently gets praised for both quality and consistency (you'll just have to take my word on that). 6) Now for some opinions that are guaranteed to "T" some people off. If you do not think that using undermodified malt and traditional methods is inherently different than modern technique and highly modified malts, then I'll wager that you have very little tasting experience with the first named. Probably the closest example to hand of this are the prestigious PIVEX awards (National Czech industrial brewing awards). None of the big guys ever get even close to the finals anymore, but are swept by tiny little breweries who have opted for maintaining mainly traditional techniques AND supplies. 7) Have you NOT had any, or much tasting experience with these classic beers, you better hurry up.... They are disappearing at an alarming rate...... most shocking is that opinions presented on this forum that stand on the "industrial party line" of the rationale that is causing their disappearance. You don't think the big breweries "say" that they make crappy beer, do you? No - they have a whole research division to PROVE that they make good beer. 8) Do I think that having undermodified Moravian malt is necessary for producing a Czech beer? No.... but it may be the easiest. The only product or technique I have found irreplaceable in the production of a good Czech Pilsner is Saaz Hops (though Halertau Herzbrucher makes a "poor cousin" if in a pinch). Visits to my cellar by Brewmasters from Czecho would seem to confirm this. 9) When in my whining voice, I complain to Bremasters there about the perceptible declining protein content, they candidly admit that it is a concerted effort from malting to brewing, in order to reduce stability problems.... if you want to be in the game today, you are looking at achieving 18 month shelf lives. I'll let that sink in.... Reducing protein content does NOT make better beer.... it creates longer shelf life.... but then again, a loaf of "Langendorf White", lasts much longer than the sour doughs I pull out of my wood fired brick oven. 10) The temperatures that Lynne O'Connor posted re: decoction schedules are essentially correct. Decoctions vary from 2-4 depending on the local brewing tradition. I once posted a "range" of times and temps I have observed to Al Korzonas (whatever in the world he might want them for). You might ask him, I don't have that information very well organised in front of me, as I find it rather useless. 11) Lastly, do I think knowing those numbers are very worthwhile? Not terribly. The most important thing is to get yourself a taste reference. You will not get that by reading a book or drinking a bottle of exported stuff. If you taste enough of the "local supply" to get those flavours "locked in" (they are QUITE complex), you can then modify your brewing to fit them... knowing how to do that is what brewing is all about, and there is plenty of info here about the theory. If knowing an exact schedule and "in house" secrets would guarantee you making a similar product, don't you think "license brewed" stuff would at least once in a while taste like the mother product? 12) I applaud Lynne O'Connors efforts in making this material available to home brewers in the US.... my major complaint about "micro brewery" beer in the states is that it is "unnessecarily thin", and this may be a good move in my preferred direction. 13) Mostly I am envious of Lynne's taste buds in about three months time...It's just over a year since my last visit to Czecho, and I feel a dire need for a "taste reference" refresher. Dr. Pivo P.S. On an even less encouraging note, word has it, that Anheuser Busch has invested in Samson brewery, which is also in Ceske Budjovice and older than Budvar. You can soon expect some real bottled crap and the words "The Original Budweiser Beer Brewed in the Czech Republic", and Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 12:28:38 -0600 From: toml at ednet.rvc.cc.il.us (Tom Lombardo) Subject: big bones Brad Miller writes: >Ok, just to make things clear. Beer doesn't make you fat, it just gives >you big bones. Yeah, but after too many beers, that big bone might go limp. (Not that I've ever had that problem...) Sorry - I just couldn't hold that one back. Tom in Rockford IL (USA) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 21:30:02 GMT From: blades at airtime.co.uk (Elizabeth Blades) Subject: Classical Music Hi, In HBD #3196 Jeff Renner wrote:- "I just heard a delightful little three minute polka for piano, "Souvenir of Pilsen" (1844) by the 19th century Czech composer Bedrich Smetana. [Ivan Moravec, piano (House of Artists, Prague, 12/18/84) (Nonesuch 791462)]. Composed just about the same time as modern Pilsener was being invented. Just thought other music loving brewers might like to know. BTW, I heard it on WKAR-FM in Lansing, which streams audio at http://www.wkar.org. With fewer and fewer public radio stations broadcasting classical music, they are getting listeners from all over the globe. If your station has gone to all talk, check it out." The BBC(ie British Broadcasting Corporation) are now broadcasting radio via the net. For classical music go to Radio3. You can also go to Classic FM's website and listen there(according to their adverts they have the biggest listnership in the world). No affiliation,just a classical music and beer lover. Liz Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 20:14:53 EST From: DKing99 at aol.com Subject: (no subject) BIER OFFICERS FOR 2000 Brewers in the Endicott Region (BIER, that's in Endicott, NY) had elections at their last meeting, and here's the new executive committee; Warren Gunbok -- President Paul Waters -- Vice-president John Metz -- Treasurer Paul VanSlyke -- News Letter Editor Mike DeGroat -- Host I've stepped down, to let some new blood lead our band of brewers. Any newsletter editors out there who would like to trade newsletters with us should contact Paul as PVanslyke at aol.com. Warren is wgrunbo at attglobal.net. Here's to a great 2000! Now, back to the mash tun....... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 19:15:36 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: solstice and full moon Not only will it be a remarkable new moon, but it's the exact middle of Ramadan. Of course if you're celebrating Ramadan, you shouldn't be reading this. Shame on you. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:54:07 -0800 From: Michael Kowalczyk <mikekowal at megsinet.net> Subject: Oxygenator regulator. I bought from William's brewing an airstone on a SS wand with a filter attached to it. Looks like a great system - can't wait to try it. I want to use pure O2 instead of an aquarium pump, basically because: 1. I'm lazy 2. I can. Besides, 30 to 60 seconds with pure O2 sure beats the hell put of 30 to 60 minutes w/ an air pump. Anyway, I want to use those red disposable O2 bottles and a regulator, but I can't seem to find the regulator. I checked Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, McMaster Carr... Can't seem to find them. I'm thinking I should have just bought the oxygenator from Liquid Bread. They seem to be able to get the right regulator. I'm thinking of a welding supply store next ( I need a CO2 tank for my kegs anyway). Anybody been through this and have a part number and manufaturer they can tell me about? - Mike, Not quite blasting with pure O2 in New Lenox Il. The more I know about being Y2K certified, the more I think it's a bunch of hooey.... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 19:08:48 -0800 From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <don at steinfillers.com> Subject: Hugh Baird Forgive the bandwidth if this has already been answered. But, Hugh Baird malts are not going away. Not all of them anyway. They are only eliminating their importing of the Pilsen malt and a few of their crystal malts. Those crystal malts that they are no longer going to import will be made by Great Western in the U.S. from imported British malt. I have been carrying the GW crystal malt for a while and find it every bit as good in quality to British crystal. All the roasted malts will continue to be imported by GW; choc, roasted barley, black malt. ... The HB British Pale malt (Maris Otter) will continue to be imported by GW. Relax and have a homebrew -- Don Van Valkenburg brew at steinfillers.com www.steinfillers.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 19:43:06 PST From: "Don Glass" <deglass at hotmail.com> Subject: What If I want to build a brewery? I live in a foreign country and ordering turnkey systems is prohibitively expensive for a small brewpub due to shipping. I am interested in finding information on the net or in print about how to construct a small brewery (say...2-5bbl). I would be particularly interested in plans or schematics. Thanks in advance for the help ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 01:19:43 -0500 From: "John Stegenga" <bigjohns at mindspring.com> Subject: Boom goes the Propane... In HBD 3197, Bob asks: Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:22:52 -0700 (MST) From: "Robert A. Uhl" <ruhl at austinc.edu> Subject: Propane Indoors On Thu, 16 Dec 1999, jim booth wrote: > > Hope folks noticed the article about the Michigan citizen > dutifully preparing for Y2K, stored propane in his > basement and blew away his house. > > This issue has been discussed ad naseum in previous > HBD's, but, did we really take the hazard seriously? What exactly is the danger of a small (i.e. barbecue-sized) container of propane? I ask because I have one stored in my flat in a closet and I would hate to burn the place down. I always store it with all valves closed and hoses disconnected, well away from heat sources &c. Bob Uhl Well Bob, If you leak test and properly secure that small propane tank the odds of it going BOOM are quite small. You're more likely to hit the lotto, in fact. Propane accidents are almost always caused by a loose nut behind the wheel, as it were. In fact, this guy who blew up his house was a survivalist wacko who was convinced that January 1 2000 would be the end of civilization as we know it. The tank that blew, if I recall the news properly, was one of TEN!! 200lb tanks he had in the basement of his house, along with a years worth of supplies and water! The valve was not properly tightened and resulted in a leak. When the propane reached a pilot light in his basement, BOOM went the gas. The tank itself, if I recall, did not go boom - just enough loose gas to move the house off of it's block wall foundation! When storing the tank, that little white plug that's attached should always be securely in place. I also have 'gages' on mine, which include a second safety valve. These gages are available for about $15.00 each at homedespot... John AKA Bigjohn's Bigjohn's Basement Brew House Woodstock, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:02:23 -0500 From: RobertJ <pbsys at pbsbeer.com> Subject: Re: More steam From: "Dean Fikar" <dfikar at flash.net> A couple of posters mention that direct injection of steam into the mash is bad because you might heat portions of the mash enough to extract tannins. I don't agree. After all, when you decoct a portion of the mash you're doing the same thing but to an even greater extent. I did not notice any astringency with any of my steam-injected beers, _____ When you decoct you're taking only the thickest part of the mash and have a low liquid to grain ration. Tanin is extracted in a high liquid to grain ratio causing astringency. Regarding steam injection, I suspect as long as you stir the mash you will avoid any overheating. Bob Precision Brewing Systems URL http://pbsbeer.com Manufacturer of 3 Vessel Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:28:59 +0000 From: "J. Doug Brown" <jbrown at labyrinth.net> Subject: false bottom design - any experience out there? Hello, I am slowly starting to assemble my RIMS unit and was starting to think of a false bottom to use in by 1/2 barrel keg. I understand I should try to maximize the percentage open area in the false bottom, but I am not sure of how much support would be necessary based on the spacing between holes and hole size. I also have heard of 1/8" holes any larger holes been used? This is a rims so I think I could go up to maybe 1/4" and still setup a filter bed, recirculated grains prior to filter bed setup would be pumped back on top the grain bed. Anybody with any experimental data on false bottom and hole size. The table below contains my calculations with hole diameter along the left column, and spacing between holes across the top row. The values shown are percentage open area. hole dia spacing 1/32 1/16 3/32 1/8 5/32 3/16 7/32 1/32 22.7 10.1 5.67 3.63 2.52 1.85 1.42 1/16 40.3 22.7 14.5 10.1 7.4 5.67 4.48 3/32 51 32.6 22.7 16.7 12.8 10.1 8.16 1/8 58 40.3 29.6 22.7 17.9 14.5 12 5/32 63 46.3 35.4 28 22.7 18.7 15.7 3/16 66.6 51 40.3 32.6 27 22.7 19.3 7/32 69.4 54.9 44.4 36.7 30.9 26.3 22.7 I would like to keep spacing to a minimum while still maintaining the intregrity and durability of the false bottom. I am currently thinking of the follwing potential sets as likely candidates. Hole diameter Spacing between Open Area 1/8 1/16 40.3 5/32 1/16 46.3 Possible materials include sheets of 304 Stainless Steel, 316 Stainless Steel, Alloy 101 copper and Alloy 110 Copper in the following thicknesses (inches): 0.036, 0.048, 0.060, 0.75, and 0.120. The physical design of the false bottom as I imagine it now would be a 16-18 inch diameter false bottom plate with at least a X brace attached to the bottom of it for added stability. If anybody has any suggestions for design, or knows of a good one I would appreciate the help. I am looking to build a sturdy, long lasting false bottom meant to withstand regular usage and some abuse. PS private email is fine. jbrown at labyrinth.net Thanks Doug - -- J. Doug Brown - Fairmont, WV Sr. Software Engineer jbrown at labyrinth.net jbrown at ewa.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:07:50 -0500 From: Harley Ellenberger <HarleyE at CMAGTRACKS.com> Subject: Controlling Fermentation Temperature I am wondering if you can offer any suggestions on simple ways to control fermentation temperatures. I find it difficult to get my temps. to drop below 72 degrees F. I have heard of the carboy in the pan filled with a bit of water and a tee-shirt over top, but haven't yet tried it. I don't have an extra refrigerator so I can't set up one of those fancy fermentation coolers. I try to keep my carboy at the coolest and driest area in my apt. but still can't seem to get the right temperatures. Any ideas? Thanks Harley Ellenberger Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:20:23 -0600 From: Dave Hinrichs <dhinrichs at quannon.com> Subject: Chiller coils Another thing to consider in the construction of a chiller coil is the hieght of the kettle. I constructed mine with the in/out tubes having a 90 degree bend to keep the connections outside of the kettle in case of leakage. When I originally made mine it fit nicely in my 5 gallon pot I was using at the time. When I stepped up to a 15 Gallon Kettle it now hangs from the rim. *************************************************************** * Dave Hinrichs E-Mail: dhinrichs at quannon.com * * Quannon CAD Systems, Inc. Voice: (612) 935-3367 * * 6101 Baker Road, Suite 204 FAX: (612) 935-0409 * * Minnetonka, MN 55345 * * http://www.quannon.com/ * Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:55:03 -0600 From: Paul Kensler <Paul.Kensler at cyberstar.com> Subject: re: Cask breathers for cornies Tony said: "Now this may sound strange coming from a 'Limey' but Just how do you implement a cask breather with a Corny Keg? <snip> Do I simply splice the thing into my Gas line and leave the regulator set to 20psi? or do I have to turn the pressure down to the much quoted ~1psi?" Tony, The cask breather I mentioned in my post the other day (sold by UK Brewing) splices into your gas line. You set your regulator for 5 psi, and the breather keeps the beer at 1 psi. That way, there is no leaking due to high pressure, and the breather's high flow rate prevents a suction from being formed in the cask / keg. Since you have to set the in-pressure to 5 psi (assuming you have other kegs in your draft system), you would need either a separate gas dispense system or simply a second regulator for the cask gas line. Of course if you only have one keg at a time anyway, that wouldn't be a problem. Hope this helps! Paul Kensler Lansing, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:18:29 -0500 From: "Larry Maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net> Subject: beer/alcohol regulations Having just moved to Georgia from California, I'm trying to come to grips with the restrictive alcohol laws here and wondering if any of you GA brewers are aware of efforts to change the legislation. I was recently at a party where I was offered a Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale that my host was treating like it was moonshine or something. He said beer over 6% ABV can't be sold here, so every year he buys Celebration or other contraband seasonals when he's out-of-state on business. From what I have been told, it appears I have also been spoiled by the ability in California to buy alcohol in stores on Sunday, to have a mimosa or bloody mary with my Sunday brunch, and to buy hard liquor in the grocery and convenience stores. My host, an apparently knowledgeable beer geek, also told me that brewpubs were only legalized a few years ago! I realize many states have these paternalistic laws. Does anyone know of a source that would tell me what efforts are being or have been made to change them, particularly in Georgia? I would be glad to participate in any lobbying efforts. Private email is fine. Larry Maxwell Atlanta stranded in the Bible Belt Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:54:22 -0600 From: "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com> Subject: Sydney Olympics and beer My daughter will be rowing in Sydney 15-25 Sep 2000. I am interested in email from homebrewers in the Sydney area. I'd like to bring some beer down from the states, explore the local beer scene and find modest digs with a family or a B&B. I don't know the transport system there but I understand the rowing is at Penrith Lakes 40-50 Km west of the city center. Hope to hear from you. Bruce Garner Madison, Wisconsin Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:54:18 -0600 From: "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com> Subject: Re: Cask Ale Pressure Problem Jeff, here's my late entry: I am concerned that the plastic bag CO2 reservoir would leak or that the gas would pass through the plastic if it were left on for a long period of time. I don't want to deal with it every time I want a beer. In my solution I looked toward finding a more gas tight reservoir. Cask breathing at ambient air pressure should be able to take place using three containers. Beer in a corny keg. CO2 in a second closed container at least as large as the keg with two fittings at the top - a stoppered carboy or corny keg will work. Water in a third container which is open. This can be a trash can. If all three containers are the same level a hand pump is needed to pull beer out of the keg, drop the pressure in the gas container causing water to be drawn out of the third container and gradually replace the gas. If all three containers are a few feet above the tap the beer will deliver by pressure without a pump. In this case a glass carboy can be used for gas. It will visually indicate how much beer is left in the keg as it fills with water. Alternatively if the water container is set high with a siphon into the gas container or if it is replaced by a by a connection to the city water system valved to a trickle, water pressure will drive the system. The height of the water container can be adjusted to tune the serving pressure. If city water pressure is employed a corny should be used for gas. The gas vessel can be put on a bathroom scale to measure how much water is in it. What do think? Bruce Garner Madison, Wisconsin Regrets in advance to Kyle in Bakersfield, CA Wisconsin will score the first ever back to back Big 10 wins in the Rose Bowl. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:25:37 -0500 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: 5 L Minikegs Ted McIrvine <McIrvine at ix.netcom.com> writes: <5 liter mini kegs were the worst brewing investment I've ever made. They leak, the priming directions result in warping, and you'll spend so much on CO2 cartridges that you could buy 4 large stainless kegs and a complete CO2 system for the money.> All these criticisims _WERE_ true. Check out listermann.com. We have been producing "Phil's Relieph Bung" which eliminates the warping ( technical term "boinking" ) problem and we have recently introduced the "Philtap" which takes care of the leaking problem. Further the "Philtap" will dispense beer with the can standing on its end or laying on its side for discreet fridge storage and enhanced spousal acceptability. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:37:47 -0600 From: Eric Schoville <eschovil at us.oracle.com> Subject: Diets Folks, I am personally getting a little tired of all of the diet related posts. Let's take them somewhere else. Eric http://home1.gte.net/rschovil/beer Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:38:09 -0800 From: "Bill Riel" <briel at uniserve.com> Subject: More on hop teas, new hops Greetings, The recent talk about hop teas has got me thinking (always a dangerous thing, that). Is there any reason one couldn't just extract a bit of the beer (with a wine thief, for example) and use that as is (or diluted) to make a hop tea with? It seems to me it would be a simple way to solve the acid level problem. On another hop front, I recently attended the local CAMRA Christmas party, and I won some hops. They're supposed to be new varieties, and I haven't been able to find anything out about them. The first is called 'Santiam', and its alpha acid level is 5.3%. The second is called 'Horizon', and it weighs in at 10% AA. Anybody know anything about these hops? Cheers, Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:42:18 -0600 From: Eric Schoville <eschovil at us.oracle.com> Subject: Beer Engine Problems Paul Kensler wrote: >My concern is that since the draft line outside the >freezer and the pump itself would be at room temperature, the beer inside >would spoil and turn sour. I don't drink much, my normal habits would make >me expect to have 2-3 pints a week, meaning that there wouldn't be a lot of >volume being moved through the pump and lines. The simple solution is to drink more beer. Eric Schovile http://home1.gte.net/rschovil/beer/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:43:16 -0600 From: MVachow at newman.k12.la.us Subject: millenium. . .milli vanilli? Kelly speculates that the chap whose Y2K basement stash of propane blew the house skyward was really just making sure he could brew on Jan. 1. Perhaps we should all stock up for brew sessions on Jan. 1. An enterprising homebrewer could make a nice little chunk of cash in the few days the Anheuser Busch computers are down. Score this one in the bang category for the arrival of the millenium. I find the wimper category far more amusing. Perhaps you all caught the Nightline edition a couple of weeks ago when Ted Koppel hosted two university history teachers who were there to explain the nature of the first millenium. Koppel just couldn't manage to extract from these fellows any historical confirmation of the shallow, self-important frenzy that dominates our modern response to the millenium. With the vast majority of the Western world impoverished, illiterate and dying of the plague in 999, the professors explained, most folks had no idea what day of the week it was much less what year, and if they had hoped for anything from the millenium, it would have been a welcome apocalypse. Furthermore, the professors commented, the modern calendar is probably miscalculated by six years or so anyway, the true millenium having passed around the time Milli Vanilli was exposed. Milli Vanilli. . . . millenium. . . .coincidence? I don't think so. Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:54:17 -0600 From: "John Watts" <watts at radiks.net> Subject: Reverse flow RIMS revisited Re Pete Czerpak's post in #3195 where he was talking about the design of the mash tun/fluidized bed reactor. Instead of having a tall skinny mash tun (although I think a 6' tall tun would look really cool), would you be able to get the same affect by rigging up a vertical tube to an existing mash tun? Would this give the particles would have time/space to drop out. Big question is how big of a pipe would you need? Not to mention if this would work at all! Rgds Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 16:56:34 GMT From: mikey at swampgas.com (The Artist Formerly Known As Kap'n Salty) Subject: Fad Diets I thought I might also comment on this. I used to weigh well over 700 pounds -- until I discovered Reverend Srivani's Hyper Chakra Diet. After a year of nothing more than Slim Jims, Crystal Lite and high colonics 4 times daily (or more!) I lost over 100 pounds and now have the physique of an apollonian demi-god. Plus I've grown a third nipple and acquired the ability to change the oil in my van USING ONLY MY MIND! AND I feel great -- with STAMINA to spare! Literally. The garage is overflowing with boxes of my excess stamina, which I'll gladly send anyone for postage. On a related note, I cam across an article in a back issue of BT that recommended a maximum rate of cooling of yeast starters of 18 degrees F. per day. I have always assumed that the rate should be 8-10F/day. Any comments? ************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:05:00 -0500 From: Dave Humes <humesdg1 at earthlink.net> Subject: Propane Dangers! Greetings, Propane tanks have an integral pressure relief valve. It is designed to release excess pressure in a controlled fashion rather than risking rupture and catastrophic release of the gas. If your supplier were to inadvertently overfill your tank a little, then just a moderate pressure increase from bringing it in from the outside cold could make the valve release. I've had it happen more than once with different tanks. We had one that was just filled sitting on the deck. When the sun hit it, it started releasing. It may be a controlled release, but it could easily be enough to ignite, especially since propane is heavier than air and will accumulate in enclosed spaces. I used to keep the spare tank in the garage until I got a call from the wife one day saying that the house smelled like gas and something was making funny sounds in the garage. This could get real interesting if you were to leave a freshly filled tank in the car with the windows shut on a sunny day. The temperature rise would be likely to cause the relief valve to release and your car would fill with propane. Now you open the door and with a little spark from the entry light switch and your brewing days will come to a premature end. Please DO NOT EVEN THINK OF STORING PROPANE INDOORS! - --Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:34:10 EST From: Headduck at aol.com Subject: Yeast profiles Hey brewers and brewsters: Is there a comparative list somewhere that shows what Wyeast yeasts correspond to what to what White Labs yeasts. For example is White Labs WLP 001, California Ale Yeast and Wyeast 1056 American Ale the same strain? I would like to start a small yeast bank and would rather not have duplicates. While we are thinking about yeast, what would you consider to be essential strains to keep in a bank? Joe Yoder Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:53:26 -0500 (EST) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Outside lines... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Paul Kensler wrote: > My concern is that since the draft line outside the freezer and the > pump itself would be at room temperature, the beer inside would spoil > and turn sour. I don't drink much, my normal habits would make me > expect to have 2-3 pints a week, meaning that there wouldn't be a lot > of volume being moved through the pump and lines. Paul, refer back to that BT article that featured my draft system. I used a cold plate in a cube 'fridge as my means of cooling, so the beer and lines were all stored at cellar temperature. I had a few beers on line for a duration of about three years with no detriment to the beers due to infectives, and only light oxidation. The key? Sanitation, sanitation, sanitation plus careful handling of the fermenting/ed product. It isn't a function of the beer or the system you serve through - it's a function of your ability to sanitize and prevent the inclusion of air. - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:53:06 -0800 From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <don at steinfillers.com> Subject: Urquell and green bottles I would like to try a little grass roots effort to persuade Urquell to switch to brown bottles for the U.S. If they get enough emails on this subject perhaps they will think about it. Send them an email telling them you would like Urquell in brown bottles. Their email is: marketing.Dpt at Pilsner-Urquell.com Here is what I emailed them: Anheuser-Busch has a TV commercial showing someone being revived with the smell of a "imported" beer in a GREEN bottle. The person was just knocked out minutes earlier and is being revived with this smell as one would use ammonia inhalers in a hospital. The point I want to make is that many beer drinkers know that the green bottles are inferior and allow light to damage the beer. If one doesn't know already that beer in green bottles can be skunky, Anheuser-Busch is making sure the public knows it now. One retailer I know won't put Urquell on the shelve. He keeps it in the box until customers ask for it. His customers know the light will damage the beer. Urquell is a good product - an excellent beer. I would just like to be able to buy it in a package that protects the contents. I Would like to see you import Urquell in brown bottles Don Van Valkenburg brew at steinfillers.com www.steinfillers.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 15:58:15 -0600 From: Rob Dewhirst <robd at biocomplexity.nhm.ukans.edu> Subject: Propane indoors Independent of the real "dangers" involved with having propane cylinders inside your house, there are two additional things to keep in mind. - It may be a violation of local city codes/ordinances to store propane inside your house. - It may be a violation of your homeowner's insurance policy to store Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 19:40:56 -0400 From: Ken Pendergrass <kenp794 at earthlink.net> Subject: Dangers of propane indoors What is the danger of barbi grill propane tanks indoors? This system is designed to vent propane into the air when the pressure is to high. Which is very dangerous when done indoors. I had this happen once. Working for a guy in the jewelry business. He didn't have the money for proper gas system. I was asked to take the propane tanks to be filled in the dead of winter. So it took all of 3 min. to vent when we brought the tank indoors. I grabbed it and ran outside. Ended up venting off about 1 third of the tank so that I could take it back inside more or less safely. It was at that point that he becan to understand my point about why we shouldn't use those tanks indoors. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:13:11 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: A little propane can be a dangerous thing Robert asks about the risks associated with a small canister of propane. I'm assuming he's talking about a disposable, not a 20lb tank. Now I'm not going to discuss how likely a leak would be. Can you smell the mercaptan that's added for safety? Not everyone can, it's something that fatigues easily and definitely declines with age (yours, not the propane's). It's worth testing yourself next time you hook the propane up. Just let the unburned gas blow away before lighting anything [8o). But supposing you did dump out the canister. I'm too lazy to look it up, so I'll assume that 1 L of liquid propane gives 1000 L of gas. If I did my mental arithmetic right, each litre of propane requires 5 litres oxygen, so the maximum explosiveness will be obtained with about 25 litres air. So if the room adjoining the closet were 10 ft x 10 ft x 7.5 ft high (roughly 25 cubic metres), releasing that can of propane would be optimal for a really decent explosion. Any mistakes in the math above will be humbly acknowledged, but are far more likely to be a matter of degree instead of orders of magnitude. It's tough owning stuff like that if you live in an apartment. I store inflammables on the front port since we live on the main floor and can always escape through a window. The back porch is someone else's fire escape. Sean Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:34:48 -0600 From: Bruce & Amber Carpenter <alaconn at arkansas.net> Subject: Carbonation level Greetings, Opinions needed on the suggested carbonation level (high, medium, low) for an English Pale Ale with FG of 1.012. On a somewhat related note: Does force carbonated beer produce larger, and a less "smooth" head? I tried an IPA at a micro recently and the carbonation seemed almost soda fountain like. Any thoughts? Thanks! Bruce Carpenter Return to table of contents
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