HOMEBREW Digest #3320 Tue 09 May 2000

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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
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Contents:
  Czech travels (Ray Kruse)
  Re: Questions about Decoction (Chris Campagna)
  AHA Board Election ("Donald D. Lake")
  no carbonation and air shipment ("S. SNYDER")
  More jabs (Eric Reimer)
  re: Water Numbers for Philadelphia? ("S. SNYDER")
  aeration ("Rockies Brewing")
  GMOs ("Alan Meeker")
  Last Call - 18th Annual Oregon Homebrew Festival ("Mark Kowalski")
  Re: AHA Board Election (Some Guy)
  Oz outback and beers and nothing has changed (Dave Burley)
  Beer Gas - Detroit Area (Art Tyszka)
  Big Brew Photos for Zymurgy ("Gary Glass")
  SUM: Bad Starters. ("Chris Strickland")
  Reverse RIMS...Yippee!...Part I (William Macher)
  Reverse RIMS...Yippee!...Part II (William Macher)
  Hops mix-up ("ChrisS")
  Top Crop (Crossno)
  Soldering, etc (Bob Sheck)

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * 18th Annual Oregon Homebrew Festival - entry deadline May 15th * More info at: http://www.hotv.org/fest2000 Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 05:17:46 -0400 From: Ray Kruse <rkruse at bigfoot.com> Subject: Czech travels One thing that Ron apparently hasn't found yet is the truly eye opening experience that I had while driving through the Czech Republic. We left Prague about 9AM heading for Dresden, and at 10:00 were stopped at a roadblock for a breathalyzer test. The trooper spoke neither English, French nor German, but did smile when he saw the American passports. The unit had instructions in English which worked out well as I've never taken one of these before. Says something about problems in a country that does sobriety checks before lunch. Ray Kruse Glen Burnie, PRMd rkruse at bigfoot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 07:37:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Chris Campagna <campagna at umd5.umd.edu> Subject: Re: Questions about Decoction In a recent HBD the questions came up: 1) Step C says "pull off the thickest 30 to 40 percent of the mash". What does that mean? Thirty to 40 percent of the total volume (grain + liquid)? What exactly should I do at this step and what is the procedure? 2) Step D. I assume an iodine test is done here, right? 3) Step E. What is the significance of "over 10 minutes". I would assume the temperature of 145F is the most important factor. If so, wouldn't it be better to just add the decoction and then adjust the temperature with cold water or heat? 1) The thickest part refers to getting as much grain as possible, and leaving behind as much liquid as possible. The enzymes for conversion will survive if left behind in the liquid. 2) you can do an iodine test on the decocted portion here. 3) the reason for 10+ minutes is that one benefit of decoction mashing is that the husk is ruptured over time. allowing for easier access to the starches for conversion. Just be sure to watch the pot so that you don't scorch the grains while doing this. Hope this helps. Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 08:48:31 -0400 From: "Donald D. Lake" <dake at gdi.net> Subject: AHA Board Election The ballots for the AHA Board of Advisors Election are due May 15th. I haven't heard any discussion on this forum on the candidates, although many of their names are familiar. We get to choose four. What's the rap on these folks? Any scandals or skeletons in closets that I should know about. Any of them been caught with young boys, a Miller Lite or something similar? Here's the slate of candidates: Scott Abene Pat Babcock Louis Bonham John Carlson, Jr Stephen Mallery David Miller Randy Mosher Lynne O'Conner Martin Stokes Don Lake Winderemere Brewing Co a division of Lake Water Brewery a wholly-owned subsidiary of Canal Water Beverages, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 10:54:01 -0400 From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com> Subject: no carbonation and air shipment Greetings fellow brewers: Before I begin, thanks to everyone who has sent replies regarding my last 2 posts. Sorry I haven't replied to each individually (I will) but with the virus and all, it has been difficult. All of your comments are so appreciated. I kind of feel bad that I am in the beginning stages of learning to brew well, so I have far more questions than answers. This is really a great discussion list. Now to the questions: #1 simple: Is there any problem with shipping bottled beer by air (either within the US or overseas) for fear of bottle explosion or just for legality sake? #2 I just finished making a nut brown ale with a can of Munton's and 3 lbs of DME, hops, and Wyeast liquid. Primary fermenter for a week then secondary for a couple to three weeks (I lost track, boooo). I had problems with the rubber stopper staying put in the secondary. After 3 weeks I transferred the beer to my bottling bucket and added 3/4 cup of corn sugar dissolved in some boiled water. I bottled, and after a 6 days at 70F no carbonation (no sediment at the bottom of each bottle either. Am I keeping it to cool for carbonation? Did my yeast die due to stopper problems? Have I not waited long enough? I haven't had problems with carbonation in the past, ever. Do I need to wait longer, or should I try to add new yeast to spark the carbonation process. I guess in that case I would have to empty all the bottles back into the bottling bucket to add the yeast. Oh my. Thanks for all the past and future help. Scott Snyder ssnyder at lbghq.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 11:01:16 -0400 From: Eric Reimer <eric at etymonic.com> Subject: More jabs Jethro quotes Brian and then writes: From: "Brian Lundeen" <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: Just a little jab! >> While putting together the speakers for MCAB I, I had been >> trying to get Dr. >> Chris White of WhiteLabs to fly in and speak at the >> conference. > >I noticed that Chris White will be the keynote speaker at this year's Great >Canadian Homebrew Conference. It doesn't look like Dr Cone will be involved. >I guess just the prospect of speaking at a more prestigious event than MCAB >was enough to lure Dr White out this time. ;-) There is a more prestigious event than the MCAB??? Damn, wait till I get my calendar out.... But, seriously.....!! Dr. Cone was interested in your event, however, as he is to be climbing Mt. Everest, with 6 swimsuit models, in an attempt to brew the highest batch, and break the North American continental record, he was obviously going to be unavailable for the GCHC. He does, in fact, bemoan the fact that Chris White is going to be at your event, however... [Snip} Back to me: It's great to hear that Dr. Cone will be taking some time off for recreational activities, however Dr. Cone was at LAST year's GCHC (1999). I had the great pleasure of listening to Dr. Cone speak at the 1999 GCHC and was very fortunate to have Dr. Cone sitting at the same table at lunch. Not only does Dr. Cone know his yeast, but he is a very personal and nice all around guy! I'm looking forward to listening to Dr. White this year! Hey, maybe the GCHC really is better than MCAB! 8^) Cheers, Eric Barking Dogs Brewing Co. London, On Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 11:08:50 -0400 From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com> Subject: re: Water Numbers for Philadelphia? Bill: I am afraid you'll have to get more specific than "Philadelphia area". The city itself probably has dozens of surface water supplies and even more ground-water supplies and they all get treated differently. Do you mean just the city or the suburbs? I know Philadelphia Suburban Water Company serves most of the suburbs for at least a 25-30 mile radius. I know we have worked for PSWC for decades and they have many water sources too. If you give me a certain area I could see if we have water quality data for that town, city or whatever. What kind of water chemistry are you looking for? Give me some details and I'll see what I can do. Scott Snyder Senior Hydrogeologist Leggette, Brashears & Graham, Inc. 126 Monroe Turnpike Trumbull, CT 06611 (203) 452-3100 (203) 452-3111 fax ssnyder at lbghq.com "The eye seldom sees what the mind does not anticipate." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 12:36:11 -0600 From: "Rockies Brewing" <RockiesBrewing at netzero.net> Subject: aeration I have access to an oxygen tank and an aeration stone. How much aeration is enough with this setup? Is it possible to over-aerate your wort. Brett _____________________________________________ NetZero - Defenders of the Free World Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 09:06:54 -0400 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: GMOs This seemed timely, given the recent discussions on GMOs here... > Subject: GURPS Ignorant Luddites, anyone? > From: bjm10 at cornell.edu (Bryan J. Maloney) > Newsgroups: rec.games.frp.gurps > > Results from a survey published in Seed Trade News December 1999 (Ball > Publishing, Batavia, Illinois.). The survey source was Thomas J Hoban, > 1999. > > The question was "ordinary tomatoes do not contain genes while genetically > modified ones do" The survey was done is several countries with the > following results: > > false don't know true > Austria 34 22 44 > Canada 52 33 15 > Finland 44 27 29 > France 32 39 29 > Germany 36 20 44 > Ireland 20 51 29 > Italy 35 44 21 > Netherlands 51 27 22 > Spain 28 46 26 > Sweden 46 24 30 > UK 40 38 22 > USA 45 45 10 > > > How do we evaluate this? > > I first generated a Daft Twonk Rating (DTR). Whomever answered "true" to > this question is obviously a daft twonk. Whomever answered "false" or had > the honesty to not know and answer "don't know" is not a daft twonk. > Dividing the "true" percentage (the daft twonks) by the non daft twonks > gave us the DTR for each country. Any country for which the DTR is > greater than 1 (daft twonks outnumber non twonks) is probably too far gone > to try to save. The daftest and twonkiest of all nations surveyed are > Austria and Germany, which came out with a whopping 0.786 DTR. This > probably explains why the Greens do so well in their elections. The least > daft nation is the USA (0.111), although Canada is only slightly less daft > (0.176). > > The Able to Keep Things on Even Keel (AKTEK) rating is an inverse of the > DTR. It reflects how much influence those who have SOME idea of reality > might have on that country's affairs. It is found by dividing the > proportion of "false" answers by the sum of "don't know" and "true" > answers. While having an even keel is usually a good thing, excesses in > this field tend to lead to humorlessness and general banality. When AKTEK > rises above 1, check your sense of fashion and love of fun at the border. > The most even-keeled nation is Canada (1.083), with the Netherlands at a > close second (1.041). The least even-keeled nation is Ireland (0.250), > followed by Spain (0.389), so bring your party hats when visiting those > lands. > > Finally, we have Get Out Of My Face, Already (GOOMFA), which represents > people who would rather just be left alone than deal with "Big Issues" > (TM). This is derived by dividing the "don't know" figure by the sum of > "true" and "false". Any country with a GOOMFA higher than 1 doesn't > actually consider itself to be on the same planet with the rest of us or > at least seriously wishes it weren't. The most GOOMFA nation surveyed is > Ireland (1.041) followed by Spain (0.852). The least GOOMFA nation (aka > the biggest fussbudget nation) is Germany (0.250), followed by Austria > (0.282). > > > So, what can we conclude from our little analysis: Things look grim for > the world, given that the biggest fussbudgets are also the daftest > twonks. If this scares you too much and you need stability, move to > Canada or the Netherlands. However, if you just want to have a good time > and let the fussbudgets bother everybody else, Ireland and Spain are your > best bets. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 09:39:41 -0700 From: "Mark Kowalski" <mhkowalski at home.com> Subject: Last Call - 18th Annual Oregon Homebrew Festival Heart of the Valley Homebrewers present the 18th Annual Oregon Homebrew Festival at the: Benton County Fairgrounds 110 SW 53rd Street Corvallis, Oregon Saturday, May 20, 2000 9:30 AM Special Guest Speaker Fred Eckhardt AHA Sanctioned Competition - Judging the 26 Recognized BJCP Beer, Mead and Cider Styles Preliminary judging and judge training session Friday, May 19, 2000 7-10 PM The Heart of the Valley Homebrewers invite you to participate in the Eighteenth Annual Oregon Homebrew Festival, the longest running event of its kind in Oregon. The focus of the event will be the judging of homebrewed beer. The competition is sanctioned by the American Homebrewers Association (AHA) and using Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Recognized Style Guidelines. In addition, the club will host a festival to promote awareness and knowledge of various beer styles, provide opportunities to share information about the homebrewing craft, and encourage interaction between homebrewers in a social atmosphere. This year's activities along with the homebrew competition will include publicly judged home-made soda competition, homebrew label competition, rookie entry competition, several displays, a raffle and the opportunity to meet and talk with some of the best and most experienced homebrewers anywhere! Winners will be announced at approximately 5:00 PM the day of the competition. Ribbons will be awarded for first, second, and third place in each category. The winner of Best of Show will receive a gift certificate or other prize appropriate to the occasion. Judges reserve the right to not award all ribbons in any category if entries are judged to not be of sufficiently high quality. Entry Deadline: Monday, May 15, 2000 For any additional information, forms, etc. or to volunteer some time for this competition see http://www.hotv.org or contact the competition organizers: FESTIVAL COORDINATOR Mark Kowalski Phone: (541) 715-8574 - (541) 752-2008 Email: festchair at hotv.org JUDGE COORDINATOR John Sterner (541) 924-0272 Email: judge at hotv.org REGISTRAR Herky Gottfried Phone: (541) 757-8009 Email: registrar at hotv.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 12:45:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Re: AHA Board Election Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager.... "Donald D. Lake" <dake at gdi.net> writes: > What's the rap on these folks? > Pat Babcock - Is a computer hologram created in a fit of boredom by Karl Lutzen. Likes Stroh's. Spends too much time on the PC and not enough with his wife and kids. Thinking of getting out of home brewing. Tortures aquaintances and small animals with boring minutia. Don't vote for him. - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 13:55:55 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Oz outback and beers and nothing has changed Brewsters: Ahhhh. Tooheys Old, V.B., XXXX, these do bring back memories of the Boulder Block Bar and the like in the mining towns of western Australia outback. My favorite view of a Sheila ( is that P.C. , Phil?) was when the barmaids wore tops made from one inch guage fishnetting. I never visited those little 4'X6'shanties with a bed and room to get your pants off, behind the main street. But, in the interest of marketing, did drive by to check out the type of advertisement the girls were using. On one occasion, I was travelling with a fellow of short stature and we went into one of these often green painted bars reminiscent of Crocodile Dundee's Local and I think to which PhilY is referring to as unchanging . The urinals ( they were urinals, I hope) were much higher off the floor than we position them in the US. When he complained of his inability to reach the bowl easily, I told him that was the Australians' way of keeping you on your toes. It also explained the wet floor. I am sorry, PhilY, but you will have to ask an Austronesian linguist or one of your local Aboriginals, as I hesitate to print the definition of Burrabadoo here. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 14:59:25 -0400 From: Art Tyszka <atyszka at mail.cbf.com> Subject: Beer Gas - Detroit Area So, I was all set to buy a N2 regulator and Guinness faucet for my draft system until I realized no one was willing to set me up with a 10 or 20# tank of 75/25 Nitrogen/CO2. The only place on the east side that I could find was N. American Coil and they said they only deal with commercial accounts. So does anyone in the Detroit area know of a Guinness certified Beer Gas dealer? - -- Art Tyszka Loyal Shepherd Brewing Co. http://www.blatant.com/beer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 16:41:42 -0600 From: "Gary Glass" <gary at aob.org> Subject: Big Brew Photos for Zymurgy Calling All Big Brewers, The AHA needs your photos! The AHA would like to publish photos from last weekend's National Homebrew Day celebrations in Zymurgy. If you have photos from your Big Brew 2000 event that you would like to see in Zymurgy, send them to us. Digital copies (at least 300dpi) can be emailed to gary at aob.org. Photos should be sent to: Zymurgy C/o Gary Glass 736 Pearl Street PO Box 1679 Boulder, CO 80306-1679 Please include the pertinent info such as Number & Names of participants, location, club name, number of gallons brewed, brewing systems used, etc. If you want your photos back please include a self-addressed stamped envelope. We cannot guarantee that all photos sent in will be published. Photos should be received by the AHA by the end of the week to make the Zymurgy deadline. Cheers! Gary - ------------------------- Gary Glass, Administrator American Homebrewers Association 736 Pearl Street PO Box 1679 Boulder, CO 80306-1679 U.S.A. Voice: (303) 447-0816 x 121 Fax: (303) 447-2825 Email: gary at aob.org Web: http://www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 20:04:22 -0400 From: "Chris Strickland" <chris at new-horizon.net> Subject: SUM: Bad Starters. Thanks for all the posts. As I suspected, I believe my starter wort was too hot. Here's a summary of the comments of both the Starter, and the difference in 1056 and 1272 American Ale Yeast Starter Comments: I think that temperature was the root of your problem. I cool mine starter wort in an ice bath until the temp. drops to 75degrees F. The gravity of the starter wort is forgiving although I've noticed that the experts recommend going lighter than you would expect. Some recommend using 1/4 cup of DME to 1 pint (approx 500ml) of water. I don't know what 2 oz is equivalent to, but most people use 5-6 tablespoons of dried malt extract (~1/3 cup) in 2 cups of water for a starter wort. Yours sounds a little weak. Maybe that's why your starters aren't taking off like gangbusters. Also, make sure not to add the yeast to hot, or even warm, wort. The only DME I have found which produces a healthy starter from any yeast source (smack pack, White Labs, previous batches) is Munton & Fison. I have not tried Breiss, but Laaglander is bad. Also, after the local brew shop burnt down I went to a couple others and got 'American' and 'English' which both produced poor quality starters. With these extracts my starters showed pressure in the air lock and only bubbles if you shok the container. I would also watch your pitching temp and SG. Shoot for no higher than 75F and 1.050, IMHO. Yeast Comments: Both seem to have the same fermentation temperatures, but one difference that I see is that the 1056 is a wee bit more attenuative No comparison between the two. The 1056 is a softer, smoother yeast, only slightly less flocculant than the 1272. I've used 1272 three times now, and each time found 1272 to impart a very unpleasant flavor, sort of a winey/sherry-like flavor that I don't want in a beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 20:20:13 -0400 From: William Macher <macher at telerama.lm.com> Subject: Reverse RIMS...Yippee!...Part I Reverse RIMS...Yippee!...Part I Hi all, First a question. What do I call that thing that I am using to draw the liquid off the top of my mash tun in the reverse mode? A False Top???? Perhaps I am in the minority, but from the start I have had problems getting a high enough recirculation flow rate out of my converted-keg RIMS. I generally mash around 20 lb. of grain in mash tun that was once a sanke keg. I am not the first to try the reverse RIMS idea, but since there are few reports on this type of system here is mine for your reading enjoyment. For those not familiar with the concept, reverse RIMS, during the mash takes liquid off the top of the mash tun and returns it to the bottom. Flow through the grain bed is from bottom to top, counter to the normal rims flow of top to bottom. My system is a single-tier, steam-injected RIMS. It is manually controlled, not automated. My problem was that if I opened the valve in the recirculation loop to get a high flow rate, the grain bed choked and I never was able to get adequate flow. Consequently, I could only input a limited amount of heat due to the low recirculation rate, and therefore it took forever to boost temperatures. My only option was to continuously stir the mash during temperature boosts, trying to prevent the filter bed from setting and restricting flow. This was something I did not want to do. I went with the RIMS idea in the first place TO AVOID stirring! The mash tun has a false bottom, with an H-shaped manifold under it, and with the in/out point out the center of the bottom of the keg. The false bottom is the standard 1/8- inch holes on 1/4-inch centers [or 5/16?] or something close to that. The false bottom is held to the manifold under it with a stainless bolt so it absolutely will not move away from the bottom. During operation in the normal rims mode very little in the way of grains find there way under the false bottom and manifold blockage has never been the problem which limited my recirculation rate. The modified system as it sits now in its RevRIMS form, adds a second outlet to the side of the mash tun and couple extra valves that allow change of direction of the recirculation flow. In the reverse mode, the flow is drawn off the top of the tun, via a salvaged stainless steel basket strainer [more on this later]. This is piped through a valve to the pump, and from the pump through my heating chamber. After exiting the heating chamber flow then goes down through a valve to the fitting in the keg bottom. The liquid comes into the keg bottom and is split four ways by the manifold and rises up through the false bottom, which keeps the grain/husks somewhat in suspension. One thing that hindered me from getting this system up and running sooner was how to deal with the drawing of the mash liquid from the top of the mash tun to the pump. Whatever is used for this purpose must be moved out of the way so that the grains can be added to the mash tun and then put back in place afterwards. Additionally, the outlet from the tun should be below the liquid level of the mash so that the pump will be gravity primed. And the height with respect to the bottom of the tun must be adjustable to accommodate varying amounts of grains being mashed. The solution was actually quite simple, although it took a while to come about. I brought the new connection through the keg wall a couple inches above the false bottom and on the inside terminated half-inch copper tubing with a copper union. This allows me to connect L-shaped half-inch copper pieces that turn upward at the center of the keg. Additional pieces can be made so the open end of the tubing is at any elevation desired. Whatever device is used as a "false top" can be slipped over the end of this tubing. But, HOW IS THIS DONE if the tubing end is submerged under the doughed-in grains? Since this was *THE* major stumbling block, I will describe a simple and workable solution which works well in my case. The answer was a tubing-extension piece. This is simply another piece of copper tubing, with an insert soldered inside it so that the end that sticks out has the same outside diameter as the inside of the copper tubing. Very easy to make, but once you do you may start to regret using that low-end copper tubing to plumb your home! You will be surprised how THIN the wall of standard copper tubing for home use is. Simply take a short piece of the same copper tubing, say a bit more than an inch long, and with tin snips cut it lengthwise. Then cut a bit off one side [of the cut you just made] so that the tubing can be squeezed with pliers to a smaller diameter. Remove enough so that the insert piece can be squeezed down small enough to slip inside the piece of tubing that will serve as the extension. Solder it in place and file off any solder or slightly out of round spots until this piece slides inside the open end of the L-shaped copper tubing in the mash tun. You now have an extension piece that is easily removable and can be used to guide the false top of your choice down and over the open end of the tubing that will feed the pump in the reverse mode. The false top just has to have a hole punched into it that is slightly larger than the diameter of the tubing you are using. [ continued in part II ] Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 20:28:06 -0400 From: William Macher <macher at telerama.lm.com> Subject: Reverse RIMS...Yippee!...Part II Reverse RIMS...Yippee!...Part II Hi again :-) Part II When adding the grains to the mash tun cover the end of the extension tubing with something to keep the grain from going into the tube. I use a piece of the next larger size tubing with a cap soldered on it. After the grains are doughed in, when it is time to put your false top on, you remove this cover from the tubing and slide the hole in the false top over the tubing extension. The false top will slide down into the mash and over the end of the L-shaped return tube. You then suspend the false top however you like and pull out the tubing extension. You are now ready to turn on your pump and start RevRIMSing! It is also easy to find the end of the submerged tubing that is under wort within the false top, and to slip the tubing extension back in place so that the false top can be removed from the mash tun at any time should you want to. I do this to get it out of the way so that the normal rims return manifold can be put in place for normal RIMS recirculation at the end. What I am currently using for my false top is a salvaged industrial basket strainer, which is amazing in the fact that it is perforated with zillions of very small holes very close together. I would be surprised if these holes are larger than 1/32 of an inch max. This thing is just under 5 inches in diameter and 12 inches long. It has a sold bottom in which I punched a hole and an open top. I inserted it into the mash about 6 inches. Before reporting how my first two RevRIMS mashes turned out, first let me report on the mini test I tried, with a pound of crushed grain and warm tap water. At this temperature I was able to put my hand in and feel around. The grain bed was only an inch or so deep but I could definitely feel the top standing up like grass under water. I think it was husks that were being lifted by the upward flow of the water as it passed through the bed. Not unexpected at all, but satisfying none the less. I assume something similar was going on when mashing the full 10- gallon-batch worth of grains but it was too hot to stick my hand in. So how did the mash react during my trial runs? The first trial run was a Belgian style wheat beer, a 50/50 mix of malted wheat and pilsner malt. I doughed in the grains and immediately started recirculating [previously I would have let it rest for 15 or more minutes]. I had no problem recirculating at full maximum right from the start, which for my system is about 3 GPM. I was able to raise temperature of the mash at about 3 degrees F. per minute. This was for a mix of 18 lb. of grain and 5.5 gallons of water, or thereabouts. I was very satisfied with the performance of the reverse flow up through the false bottom. The fact that the grains remain in suspension, rather than compacting, removes the limit to flow that I was experiencing with the conventional flow direction. I had to pay some attention to what was going on with my basket strainer false top at high recirculation rates. A sort of filter bed built up against the outside of the vertical strainer walls and restricted flow into the inside chamber from which the liquid flows to the pump. All it took was a quick twist back and forth once or twice to shake the husks(I think) off. But this had to be watched and done repeatedly during high flow rate periods. I plan to experiment with a shallower and wider false top made from some perforated stainless steel sheet in the future. Remember that I have limited false top area at the moment, only about 95 square inches. My second brew with this system also required the same attention to keep the husks from restricting flow into the basked strainer. There was minimal wheat malt in the grist this time. It is possible that with the reverse rims that husks are the main component of the material that reaches the surface of the false top [I should have taken care to remember what I saw when I took a sample]. My suspicion is that husks without grains against the false top offer the same opportunity for flow restriction as grains without husks on a false bottom. My hope is that a larger diameter, shallower device, something that better approximates a false bottom might function better and perhaps require no attention at all. Then again, if floating husks are the root cause, then the same thing could occur. I will have to check further on my next batch and see what the make-up of the stuff that is collecting against the false top is. All in all I am pretty happy with the performance of my RevRIMS. It is a substantial improvement over the original setup. I can get enough flow to really input the heat I need for 2 to 3 degree F per minute temperature boosts of the mash itself. And I am willing to live with the need to twist my false top back and forth periodically. Much less effort than stirring the entire mash. As a matter of fact, I will probably try motorizing the false top so that it turns slowly. Hopefully this will be enough to keep the husks from blocking the flow. I will know more after I get more batches under my belt and report back if anything of interest comes up. I hope this is of interest to someone out there who is contemplating building a rims... I just have to say it one more time as I head out the door: Reverse RIMS...Yippee! Bill Macher Pittsburgh, PA USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 09:41:05 +1000 From: "ChrisS" <snug at guamcell.net> Subject: Hops mix-up Hi Folks, Last brew session I used half a bag each of Fuggles and Kent Goldings. I cleverly packed the remaining hops in two small mason jars to be used next time. Trouble is, I tossed the original bag labels. Now I have two generic jars of hops and can no longer tell them apart. Can someone help me identify which is which. Thanks a bunch! Chris Senungetuk Guam, USA snug at guamcell.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 21:07:58 -0500 From: Crossno <Crossno at tnns.net> Subject: Top Crop No Phil get your mind off of billiards for a moment. < cut to sponsor > When you "top crop" or harvest the top crop of the yeast do you slow down the ferment? It would seem that when this yeast falls back through the beer you would have a good crop of yeast to finish the ferment quickly. Can you over harvest? On my next batch I may harvest one fermentor and leave the other just to compare. And now back to your billiards match. Glyn Crossno Estill Springs, TN - -- Never miss a good chance to shut up. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 23:37:34 -0400 From: Bob Sheck <bsheck at skantech.net> Subject: Soldering, etc > >Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 10:51:18 -0400 >"permanent" side. The other advantage to physical connectors is the >strength of the connection. Soldered connections are easy to pull apart and >twisting the wires together before soldering only adds a bit more strength >to them. I don't know where YOU learned to solder, but I had a 2 week course on high reliablity soldering from the US Air Force that was NASA approved, and a properly tinned, sweat-soldered junction has a HIGH strength factor. BTW, every joint we made was QC'd under a 50 power scope for any signs of poor quality. Yes, the majority of solderers think the bigger the glob, the better the job. If you want anything soldered, send it over here! I always solder any joints I want HIGH RELIABILITY from. Bob Sheck bsheck, me-sheck, abednigo! Greenville, North Carolina email:bsheck at skantech.net or see us at: http://www.skantech.net/bsheck/ (252)830-1833 - ------------- "Madness takes its toll -- Please have exact change!" - ------------- Return to table of contents
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