HOMEBREW Digest #3334 Thu 25 May 2000

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  Re: Outing of Mead and cider! (Steve Lacey)
  Eric R.  Broken fridge (AZ4RAYS)
  Keg tags, humidity problem in keg cooler ("Kevin Imel")
  RE: Fixing bottle geysers ("Neitzke, Arnold")
  Foaming Beer ("Jimmy Hughes")
  marris otter ("Czerpak, Pete")
  Zymurgy Mead issue ("J. Doug Brown")
  aha mission statement ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Re: Helles (Jim Liddil)
  moved fridge (fridgeguy)
  RE: Dorm Fridges (Jonathan Peakall)
  Re: RIMS O2 Insulation ("Martin Brungard")
  To suck or not to suck, that is my question. ("Jay Hummer")
  dysfunctional fridge ("Spies, Jay")
  cold beer ("Marty Gulaian")
  Fixing bottle geysers ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Re:  Ben Franklin ("Brett A. Spivy")
  system design (fridgeguy)
  shipping methods (DiDi Davidovich)
  Fw: Homebrew Digest Request (May 22, 1900) ("Alex MacGillivray")
  Two more cents (Epic8383)
  Mead in the style guide ("Houseman, David L")
  Zymurgy topics ("Houseman, David L")
  I found Woodruff/Waldmeister syrup!!! ("Donald D. Lake")
  Message From the Chairman of the AHA Board of Advisors: Election ("Gary Glass")
  Bavarian Lager: Beerhall Helles... by Horst Dornbusch (John_Doherty)
  AHA BOA CONGRATS!!! (Scott Abene)
  Beechwood Chip Usage at A-B ("Clint Thessen")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 14:40:49 +1000 From: Steve Lacey <stevel at sf.nsw.gov.au> Subject: Re: Outing of Mead and cider! Whoa, Bill Wible has just outed mead and cider for not being beer. This is real "The Emperor Has no Clothes" kind of stuff. Mead and cider are definitely more wine than beer, yet they are included within the ambit of most homebrew comps. Why is this so? Is it because they are just not catered for by amateur wine making competitions etc? There must be some history to this that the likes of me (and a number of my brew club mates) and Bill are not aware of. So what do you say brewsters, should we run these imposters out of town or continue to tolerate their goofy ways amidst our dignified company? I'm not sayin' we better 'n 'em, jis they shore are funny lookin'! Bites, anyone? Steve Lacey Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 01:14:52 EDT From: AZ4RAYS at aol.com Subject: Eric R. Broken fridge Several thoughts occur to me after your moving the fridge. As to the noise, or lack thereof, moving around may have repositioned your compressor and associated equipment so that you don't hear as much rattling as before. However, the drop in performance leads me to believe that your extension cord is either very cheap with much too small a wire guage to carry the load or the exact opposite. If you put the fridge on a nice long, outdoor cord you are experiencing too much line loss for the appliance to operate properly. The voltage drop across the cord is robbing the power your fridge needs to work properly and throwing off the control circuitry accuracy as well. This could cause burn out in a short time. Reccomend repairing those electrical outlets before you burn out the fridge. Just the idle thoughts of an old Electrician / Electronic Technician who hates to see a good beer fridge being abused. Have been eavesdropping on here for awhile but felt the need to jump in on this one. By the way I went ahead and joined the AHA just for the hell of it the other day, felt compelled to mentioned what a nice, professional, person Lynne at St. Pats is as she is apparently running for office. She has been a most valuable asset to me in my growing into this hobby. My experience and correspondence with her has led me to believe she would serve the organization very well indeed. Patrick W. Ray No particular credentials. Hobbyist & beer lover. AZ4RAYS at AOL.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 22:22:18 -0700 From: "Kevin Imel" <kimel at moscow.com> Subject: Keg tags, humidity problem in keg cooler Greetings! First, something to share with everyone. Forgive me if someone else has posted this idea before. Last weekend while wandering the aisles of the local office supply mega-store (no, this isn't my weekend hobby...the wife was "on a mission" and I was chauffer for some odd reason) I stumbled upon something that has solved my long running keg tag problem. 3M #LS853 Self-Laminating Luggage Tag Protectors. These are pretty heavy plastic and come with nice plastic loops for attaching to the keg handle. They work great! I made a nice tag with the brew name and a white back. I can then write on the white back with a Sharpie marker with the kegging date and other info I want to keep track of (Sharpies are erasable with Vodka, in case you hadn't figured that out yet). No affilliation with 3M other than my mutual funds may have some 3M stock but I seriously doubt that my mentioning this product on here will significantly influence the stock price. On a somewhat related topic (kegs), I use a small-ish chest freezer in the garage (unattached to the house, unheated) with external controller as a keg cooler and have been fighting the inevitable moisture build-up followed by the mold/mildew problems for a couple years. Has anyone come up with a reasonable solution to this yet? Here in E. Washington we don't have real high humidity so there isn't exactly standing water in the bottom of the cooler. I tried a couple of those "Camp Dry" things with silica gel (I assume) and they helped but they weren't a great solution. I also tried a tray of rock salt which actually seemed to work better than the Camp Dry things. Anyone else have a better idea? That mold/mildew stuff is annoying and I have to resort to quarterly scrubbings of the cooler and kegs with a bleach solution to get rid of most of it. Cheers! Kevin ___________________________________ Kevin Imel KF7CN - DN16lv Palouse Washington USA "The Only Way To Truely Fail Is To Fail To Try!" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 06:41:30 -0400 From: "Neitzke, Arnold" <Arnold.Neitzke at fanucrobotics.com> Subject: RE: Fixing bottle geysers > From: "Jim & Jeanine Steinbrunner" <steinbrunner at tm.net> > I'm not patient enough to work for a half hour or more, > burping my beer > before I > can drink it - that should come after drinking! I searched > the archives for > suggestions, but burping the caps was the best I found. Any > other ideas? Put a bottle in the freezer for about 15 minutes and see if it allows you to get it to a glass before it hits the ceiling :) __________________ Arnold J. Neitzke Brighton, Mi Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:32:34 -0400 From: "Jimmy Hughes" <inspector at bmd.clis.com> Subject: Foaming Beer I am still having the problem of just a few in a batch foam like crazy when pouring, not when opening. I have tried pouring down the side of the glass, pouring really, really slow and still foams like crazy. Any suggestions. Happy trails to you, 'til we meet again.............. Check out the free items, go to, http://www.ncinspections.com scroll down, click on the free after rebate link........ Save money, enjoy........ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:39:46 -0400 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: marris otter I just bought my first full 55 lb bag of english 2-row from the local shop. Supposedly it is Maris Otter malt (certainly cost enough). I think it says Muntons in big letters on the front of the sack and its does say Otter on the back of the sack. Is this true marris otter or not? On another good note, I finally got my 10 gallon Gott with phalse bottom and JSP malt mill. Big allgrain batches should be happening pretty soon. I am no longer limited with 13 lbs of grain. Yahoo!! Thanks for any help. Pete Czerpak albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:54:25 -0400 From: "J. Doug Brown" <dougbrown at citynet.net> Subject: Zymurgy Mead issue Hello, I just recently joined the AHA. If you are unhappy with your Zymurgy issue on mead please email me directly as I would like to buy that issue from you. I will only be buying 1 issuse total though. I imagine that my subscription to zymurgy will start with the next issue. I am willing to pay US $6 for the issue and mailing fees. My personal feelings on what should be covered in Zymurgy: Majority of articles in each issue on beer related topics with an article or two on other aspects of brewing such as mead, wine, and cider. Sincerely Doug Brown, brewing in WV dougbrown at citynet.net members.citynet.net/kbrown/Doug/Brew/index.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:57:07 -0400 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: aha mission statement On Tue, 23 May 2000 Jim Liddil spoke of the aha mission statement: >To promote public awareness and appreciation of the quality and variety of >BEER through education, research and the collection and dissemination of >information; to serve as a forum for the technological and cross cultural >aspects of the art of brewing; and encourage responsible use of BEER as an >alcohol-containing beverage. I knew this Liddil guy was SHARP! It seems that there is a conflict between the magazine name and the organization's mission statement. SO may I suggest the following corrective actions to AHA/Zymurgy: 1. Modify the AHA mission statement to include ALL forms of fermented beverages so that it meets the Magazine's name and publish things like the Big Fuel Alcohol Issue (as sugested by another) OR 2. Keep the mission statement as is and restrict all articles to either beer, sake or those strange concoctions brewed in third world countries where the local women chew the grain and spit it in a bowl (yeeeccch!). See, this is what you get when you deal with a compliance auditor ;-) Carpe cerevisiae! Glen Pannicke http://www.pannicke.net "He was a wise man who invented beer" - Plato Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 06:10:39 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU> Subject: Re: Helles On Wed, 24 May 2000, Request Address Only - No Articles wrote: > > Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 12:02:28 -0400 > From: Bill.X.Wible at QuestDiagnostics.com > Subject: Munich Helles Style Series book? > > I saw an ad awhile ago that said a new Style Series book was supposed to > be coming out for Munich Helles in May. This is near the end of May, and so > far, I can't find it anywhere. Has anybody heard or read anything? > I ordered it online and got it yesterday. I noticed the AOB and their web site has no mention at all. Jim Liddil Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 09:37:15 -0400 (EDT) From: fridgeguy at voyager.net Subject: moved fridge Greetings folks, In HBD #3333, Rick Theiner asked for help with his fridge that worked until he moved it across the room and plugged it into an extension cord. Please forgive me if this is too obvious, but there IS power on the cord, right? Plug in something else to be sure if you haven't already. The fridge shouldn't be a big current user so an extension cord is ok as long as it's made of large enough wire - no 16 gauge stuff! It's a good idea to let a fridge rest for a few hours after a move if it has been tipped, and an hour or so if it hasn't, before plugging it in. This gives time for any misplaced oil to drain back into the compressor housing and for system pressures to equalize. If the fridge was running when it was unplugged, moved and then plugged back in it is likely the compressor wouldn't restart due to the pressure differential across it. You might hear the compressor try to start and then CLICK... the thermal cutout trips. 15 seconds or so later the cutout will reset and the cycle will repeat until the system pressures equalize and the compressor starts, or the cutout or compressor fails. The 20-30 degree drop in temperature was measured where? If it was air temp across the evaporator the compressor is running or has recently shut off. If the compressor is not running but lights, fans, etc run, the fridge should heat up rather than cool down. When moving the fridge it is possible that connections to the temperature controller or other device have been dislodged. Check all of the accessible wiring and componentry for loose connections. Nearly every side-by-side fridge is frost-free so there is likely to be a defrost timer which will periodically stop the compressor and energize a heater/s to melt any evaporator ice that has built up during the run period. If the fridge is in a defrost cycle it may not start for an hour or so. Most defrost timers have a manual advance stem that will allow you to use a screwdriver to skip through the defrost cycle. Try this and see if the compressor starts. Lastly, this is a common problem when moving an old fridge. Since a fridge isn't moved very often, the components can wear very thin and still function. A move can provide the jolt necessary to cause an edgy component to fail. Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo fridgeguy at voyager.net - -- Is your email secure? http://www.pop3now.com (c) 1998-2000 secureFront Technologies, Inc. All rights reserved. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 06:32:12 -0700 From: Jonathan Peakall <jpeakall at mcn.org> Subject: RE: Dorm Fridges G'day all We Aussie's have a much better name for these things. BAR FRIDGES Now doesn't that sound much more appealing, and describes how we use them. Shout Graham Sanders Gosh, thanks for straightening us out over here. You have no idea of the delusions we labor under here! Silly folks over here call 'em dorm fridges because they are common in college dormitories. Silly, huh? >>>>>>>>>>> ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< (Indicates this is a jest, not to be taken to heart) Where I'm from, a bar fridge is larger (usually taller) than a dorm fridge. Dorm fridges are too small to really be useful in a bar. And I thought everything in Australia was even bigger than in the US. I would have thought a full size US fridge was a dorm (oops, sorry, bar) fridge "down under". Jonathan (In an obnoxious mood) Peakall Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 09:49:10 EDT From: "Martin Brungard" <mabrungard at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RIMS O2 Insulation Dana Edgell has an innovative idea for reducing atmospheric contact during mashing by using floating balls in the tun. I like that idea and it would work well in my RIMS since my liquid return is below the liquid surface to reduce air contact. The balls should significantly reduce the exposed liquid surface area and conform to the odd shapes and pipes in my tun. Dan Listermann's info on a source of floating plastic balls was very helpful. By my calculations, the balls can reduce the exposed liquid surface area by as much as 91% as long as they float with half of their diameter in the liquid. That means that they need an effective specific gravity of about 0.5 to 0.55 to float half-submerged. That's based on liquid SG's between 1.0 and 1.1 I checked with a couple of hollow plastic ball manufacturers and found that the effective specific gravity is about 0.25 for the balls they produce. That means the balls would float too high on the liquid surface, leaving too much of the liquid surface exposed to the atmosphere. I spoke with the technical personnel at both places I called and they said that they have no way to increase the weight of their product. There are also solid plastic balls available, but they have a specific gravity of about 0.9. They would be mostly submerged and again too much liquid surface would be exposed. The only answer I could come up with is to inject some water into each hollow ball to bring the weight up so that the effective specific gravity is about 0.5. That would be about 200 balls to adjust for a 5-gallon tun. The syringe hole would probably need to be sealed too. Maybe a hot iron would do the trick. I am unsure of Dan's calculations on the area for the balls that he quoted in his post. The areas he quoted were drastically larger than I calculated. For instance, I find that the projected surface area of 1000 3/4-inch balls is about 3.1 square feet. Most 5 to 10 gallon tuns are going to have a surface area of about 0.6 to 0.9 square feet. That means that you could get a friend or two and split a box of 1000 3/4-inch balls. Is anybody on HBD interested in doing that? Another solution to reduce the liquid surface area is to use a floating plastic cover in the tun, but that would require that the cover be removed each time you stirred and the cover would have to be custom formed to accomodate the piping in my tun. I like the ball idea better! You could probably dough-in, stir, and add liquids without ever having to remove the balls. Any other ideas to reduce liquid surface area? Martin Brungard Tallahassee, FL "Meandering to a different drummer" ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 07:01:09 -0700 From: "Jay Hummer" <jayhumm at zdnetonebox.com> Subject: To suck or not to suck, that is my question. Is it okay to suck the end of a tube to start a siphon? After all the sterilizing I do with everything that touches the beer, it seems to me that sucking on a tube that is then placed in beer is anything but sterile. Yet in a book I just purchased (by Dave Miller), there's even a diagram about the proper position of your hand for pinching the tube after you suck on it to start the siphon. (Should I be gargling with sanitizer first?) I just bought a carboy cap with two holes in it, so I can rack by blowing in one of the holes. I figured that would solve the problem. But no! I then see a catalog that sells these caps, and it refers to the practice of blowing in the carboy as "dubious." Do most people suck? Or do they blow? - -- Jay Hummer ___________________________________________________________________ To get your own FREE ZDNet Onebox - FREE voicemail, email, and fax, all in one place - sign up today at http://www.zdnetonebox.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 10:27:51 -0400 From: "Spies, Jay" <Spies at dhcd.state.md.us> Subject: dysfunctional fridge All - Eric Theiner asks in HBD #3333 about a non-working fridge and ideas for remedial action... Well, some months ago the SO got me to invest in a new fridge, despite the fact that the present one worked just swimmingly. ("but the old one doesn't have an ice dispenser through the door...blah blah...") Anyhoo, my price for shelling out the dough was that I be able to use the old fridge for lagering purposes... So some buddies of mine hauled my fridge downstairs to the beer dungeon basement brewery and set 'er up. Worked fine for a spell and then...nada. Checked all the connections - fine. Checked for external damage - none. Then, in the Mother Of All Forehead Slaps, checked the breaker box...tripped! Perhaps that's the source of the problem? Maybe if that's not the problem then the solenoid(?) that diverts coolant to the fridge side is defective...I think I remember FridgeGuy saying something along those lines once. I'm sure Forrest will chime in shortly with his usual stellar insights, so I'll just shut up now... HTsomewhatH :) Jay Spies Wishful Thinking Basement Brewery Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 10:28:25 -0400 From: "Marty Gulaian" <mag6 at po.cwru.edu> Subject: cold beer Forrest Duddles wrote: >I actually prefer to see Bud and the rest of the megabrew stuff >stay in the cooler. I'll buy good stuff instead and let it warm to the >proper serving temperature, thank you. BIG Smileys!!! I probably shouldn't admit it here, but I like beer over ice. A Genny Cream Ale over ice is great beach beer. And I'll order a Guinness or a Spaten Optimator with a glass of ice on a hot night. Yum yum. Why is beer any different from Coke or lemonade? Why don't we drink, say, iced tea at cellar temperature? Marty Gulaian Cleveland, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 10:30:57 -0400 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Fixing bottle geysers In HBD #3333 Jim Steinbrunner wrote: >Now, after 2+ weeks in the bottle, I lose a third of the beer to foam before I can >pour, or I have to repeatedly "burp" the cap to let off some pressure. I currently have a similar problem with a barleywine I made. Even after racking to a secondary, adding a second charge of yeast and rousing weekly for two months, I still couldn't get the gravity down below 1.024 (I think that's what it was). Figuring 1.024 was fine for a heavy brew with a starting gravity around 1.100, I bottled two cases. One case went to the fridge and has been fine ever since. The other went to the cellar for about a year. Sometime over the last month, one of the cellar bottles exploded and all of them have bowed caps. I opened one it gushed like crazy - all potential bombs. I guess there were still enough residual sugars present to allow a long bottle ferment at the higher temp. Rather than lose half the beer when I open it and handle each potential bomb with kid gloves (and safety goggles), I put one of the the bottles in the fridge & dropped the temp to around 35F for a few days. I then opened the bottle to vent the CO2 in the headspace, swabbed the neck with 70% ethanol and loosely placed a sanitized cap on top for about 15-20 minutes to let some more CO2 slowly escape from the beer and displace the O2 in the open headspace. Then I recapped and refrigerated at normal temp for two days. This single bottle experiment seemed to help reduce the pressure and allow the brew to reach normal carbonation levels. I'm hoping it will work on the rest of the case because this brew just gets better as it ages! Anyone else ever try this? Carpe cerevisiae! Glen Pannicke http://www.pannicke.net "He was a wise man who invented beer" - Plato Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 10:33:46 -0500 From: "Brett A. Spivy" <baspivy at softdisk.com> Subject: Re: Ben Franklin Jim wrote (in part): <snip> and FWIW and extensive search of various quotation databases has yet to turn up the often cited ben franklin quita about god and beer. This involved using known quotation sites and various sites about ben franklin Jim Liddil North Haven, CT <snip> While I have not tried to find the quote on the web, I know that this quotation is listed in the 12th edition of Bartlett's and attributed to Mr. Franklin. IMS, it can be found in the first volume of columns in Mr. Franklin's second newspaper under the heading: Poor Richard. This was the early forerunner of what eventually became his most popular writings and then later the almanac most everyone has heard about. This quotation comes out of Mr. Franklin's general discussion of "Moral Perfection", a concept that he took up at the age of 21, maintained was fully within the reach of man, and proclaimed he had attained at the age of 34. This "life plan" was grounded deeply in the concept that "in all things moderation" was not only possible but preferable. In those first 22 columns detailing "Moral Perfection", what it meant, its basic tenants, and how to achieve it over a lifetime, Mr. Franklin makes the case that to deny oneself of drink was neither virtuous nor healthy. He makes the case for King David, the brewer and Noah the winemaker, cites the obvious first miracle of Jesus (water to wine) and recounts of Ismael's being sustained by angels with grain and drink as proof that drink, in moderation, is the natural desire and healthful path of man. Mr. Franklin opined that man, in his decidedly ignorant and survival oriented state could simply NOT have come to drink on his own and further that it was God who designed the Honey, Grain, and Grape so that its natural end state is alcohol. Ergo, God taught Man to ferment, and "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants of to be happy." This great man, helped found a country, created wealth for himself and others, developed technology, and loved women, drink, and food (in that order), all the while attributing his success to God and preaching to our forefathers the importance of faith and good beer. Brett A. Spivy Stolen Cactus Brewery Student of Moral Perfection (stuck at the third tenant at 32) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 11:37:29 -0400 (EDT) From: fridgeguy at voyager.net Subject: system design Greetings folks, I posted this in reply to an inquiry I received as to why I recommend a medium teperature refrigeration system for use in a cold box. I think it may be helpful to others as well so I'll post it to the list. > Refrigeration engineers have carefully designed the various > refrigerating devices we use. Each is tailored to the task it must > perform. We as homebrewers try to adapt existing devices to serve our > needs. Choosing the best device for the task improves the likelyhood of > success of our adaptation. > > Briefly, there are three major types of refrigeration systems: > > High temp - air conditioners and dehumidifiers fall into this > category. They are designed for an evaporator temperature of > approximately 35 degF. so the won't freeze. These systems are intended > to be used with space temperatures near normal room temperature (70 > degF). > > Medium temp - domestic refrigerator/freezers, cold rooms, > refrigerated display cases, etc are examples. These systems are > designed for evaporator temperatures near 0 degF and will usually need > periodic defrosting. These systems are normally used with space > temperatures of 20-50 degF. > > Low temp - domestic freezers, ice cream display cases, blast > freezers, etc. are examples of this type of system. Evaporator > temperatures are usually around -20 degF or colder and space temps > will be 0 to -20 degF. Proper defrosting can be problematic with > these systems. > > When designing a cold room it is important to understand that cold > air holds less moisture than warm air at a given *relative* humidity. > Air at 50% relative humidity at 70 degF will contain more water than > air at 50% relative humidity at 40 degF. > > As the air temperature is lowered the relative humidity rises until > dewpoint is reached and the water begins to condense. If we wish to > achieve 50% relative humidity at 40 degF, some of that water must be > removed from the air. To do that we must lower the air temperature > below dewpoint. > > Refrigeration systems remove moisture from the air by lowering the > air temperature below its dewpoint as it passes over the evaporator. > The moisture condenses on the evaporator surface. A lower evaporator > temperature will drop the air temperature further below its dewpoint, > therefore more moisture will be removed from the air. > > The reason I recommend a medium temperature refrigeration unit for a > lagering cold box is that a properly sized system with a 0 degF > evaporator temperature will remove enough moisture from the air to > maintain reasonable humidity levels at a 35-40 degF space temp. > > Hope this helps! > -------------------------------- > Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo > fridgeguy at voyager.net - -- Is your email secure? http://www.pop3now.com (c) 1998-2000 secureFront Technologies, Inc. All rights reserved. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 09:24:03 -0700 From: DiDi Davidovich <didi at mmlive.com> Subject: shipping methods Help! I am no longer within easy freeway access to my father's homebrew and we are suffering. Has anyone discovered a reasonably economic way to interstate ship a case or three, in 12 oz bottles? Years ago he UPS'd half-cases cross-country in recycled beer-of-the-month shippers, but that became very expensive beer. This is for consumption by adult members of the immediate family so presumably this is not illegal or unethical. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 08:42:58 -0800 From: "Alex MacGillivray" <sockeye at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Fw: Homebrew Digest Request (May 22, 1900) Hello Brewing compatriots, I thought I made a huge mistake. In fact I may still have made one in the eyes of a judge, but be that as it may. I set out at the beginning of last month to make an oatmeal stout. I foolishly followed a suggestion in Zymurgy (which I won't re-new my subscription to. There is more concentrated and relevant knowledge here). Normally I make 15 gallon batches at a time, so I just step up the directions to a 5 gallon batch. I'm not going for clone beers. In fact I formulate my own recipes. From time to time all brewers make mistakes be it as small as forgetting the irish moss to letting one's dog drink from the bottling bucket My last one was a classic miscalculation. I added 3 times too much oatmeal to the mash tun. The run off was slow to stuck from the mash that had become so pliable it was nearly elastic. Then came the transfer the fementer. It was so turbid that it looked like dark swamp water. But still smelled good nonetheless. I let it ferment to completion. Which I'll add was a violent, but controlled fermentation. Even when racking to a secondary is was full of particulate. Oh well.... I added a dose of isinglass and fortunately it cleared. It has, so far, a finial gravity of 1.020. Which is fine for a barley wine. But in this instance, it is also enjoyable. The alcohol is 5.3% by volume. I do have a question though if someone can answer. If I were to prime on a bottle to bottle basis, like with the corn sugar tablets, how much plain old powered corn sugar should I use based like on a 12 or 22 oz bottle. I realize that carbonation might be a bit harder to control, but they're just for my friends anyway. Thanks Remember, Alex starts with ale Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 13:51:03 EDT From: Epic8383 at aol.com Subject: Two more cents After writing in my opinion on the honey variety article, it did occur to me that I am similarly obsessed with the variety of brewing ingredients. Someday I may try an exotic honey for a mead, but right now that's not a high priority. As far as Zymurgy and the AHA goes, I'll probably never cancel my membership as long as things don't get completely out of control. There are many things I'd like to be more involved in, but my family obligations and financial situation keep me rather busy. I do, however, try to endorse our craft to as many people as possible. Being a rather good 40 yr. old goaltender, I get the call to fill in for guys who can't make their game, and I always try to bring my 3 gal. corny, filled with something palatable yet tasty. I always suggest my local homebrew retailer as the place to go and offer to teach them with their first brew. At my own men's league annual party, I donate to the raffle a case of four different beers, this is usually a highly sought prize! I guess we all have to keep in mind that there are business concerns when running an organization/magazine, that just like a pro brewer has to brew what sells, so does the AHA have to appeal to a broad range of brewers. Gus Rappold Inwood, NY P.S. Jim Liddil-The 50 BMG is a work of art!-but I think you just opened a whole new can of worms!...Should be interesting-Gus Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 14:03:26 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Mead in the style guide Bill Wible writes: "Personally, I think there has to be some seperation. I question why either mead or cider (and any of their variants) are listed in the style guidelines as categories of beer. They are not beer. They are much closer to wine. I think the AHA and BJCP should remove these from their style guidelines, since they are not beer." There is a history since the early days of homebrew competitions that meads and ciders have been included. Not all competitions may include them, but then not all competitions include all beer styles either. The BJCP, having resulted from this history, has continued the support of mead and cider by including them in the style guide. Should the homebrewing community, specifically competition directors and entrants, decide that they don't want mead or cider in competition, or to have them judged at homebrew competitions, then they will dissappear from the style guide. Just as Malt Liquor was removed for lack of interest. The style guide is intended to be a living document that changes to represent the needs and wishes of it's users. CAP was added relatively recently due to the interest by the homebrewing community. Today, meads and ciders still have healthy representation at many {if not most} homebrew competitions. Many brewers also make mead or cider and want a forum for having them judged. Wine competitions [to my knowledge] do not judge these beverages. Was the AHA, or even BJCP, ever ONLY about beer? If you don't like them, don't make them or opt out of judging them. David Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 14:12:01 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Zymurgy topics Personally, I'm interested in beer, mead and cider. Wine too, but I've only made lousy wine. Then again my cider's haven't been spectacular either. Maybe if I read more about these later subjects, I'd be as good at them as I am the first. Mabye if the cheesemaker's digest takes off with greater participation, that would another area of "fermentation" that would be relevant. But then is cheese mold a yeast? Probably not. But there is an affinity between the homebrewers, the home vinters, the mead and cider makers and now the home cheese makers. Now if I could only retire to have the time to do all these as Jack does. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 11:43:55 -0400 From: "Donald D. Lake" <dake at gdi.net> Subject: I found Woodruff/Waldmeister syrup!!! After many weeks since my first post about this, it looks as if the brewers of Berliner Weisse will have a regular supply of woodruff/waldmeister syrup. One homebrew supply in northern California has it in stock. He went to a great effort to get it. The syrup comes only in one size of 700 ml and is priced at $18. My exhaustive research indicates that this is the only supplier in the U.S. who has it in stock and is willing to ship mailorder. J J Jackson Original Home Brew Outlet Sacramento CA 916-348-6322 I finally got to taste a berliner weisse sweetened with woodruff syrup this past weekend at the Sunshine Challenge courtesy of Jeff Gladdish and George Perrin. All I can say is that it's totally worth all the effort and every penny. So, all of you Berliner Weisse lovers and especially those who asked for it, call JJ to order a bottle and thank him for his trouble (I contacted at least a twenty suppliers and suggested how to get it and all but two declined to help). Don Lake dlake at amuni.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 14:03:53 -0600 From: "Gary Glass" <gary at aob.org> Subject: Message From the Chairman of the AHA Board of Advisors: Election A Message from Charlie Olchowski, Chairman of the AHA Board of Advisors: As Chairman of the Board of Advisors of the American Homebrewers Association, I am pleased to announce the results of our recent election for membership to our Board. The individuals are: Pat Babcock, Louis Bonham, Randy Mosher and Lynne O'Connor. This is an amazing assembly of talents from varied segments of the homebrewing community. The Board will look forward to working individually and collectively with these new members to actively assist the AHA with meeting the needs of its membership. -Charlie Olchowski Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 09:07:58 -0400 From: John_Doherty at cabot-corp.com Subject: Bavarian Lager: Beerhall Helles... by Horst Dornbusch In Homebrew Digest #3333 (May 24, 2000) Bill X. Wible wrote: > >Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 12:02:28 -0400 >From: Bill.X.Wible at QuestDiagnostics.com >Subject: Munich Helles Style Series book? > >I saw an ad awhile ago that said a new Style Series book was supposed to >be coming out for Munich Helles in May. This is near the end of May, and so >far, I can't find it anywhere. Has anybody heard or read anything? Bill (and everyone else), Funny you should mention the Helles book - I was looking for it yesterday and found it on barnes & noble (bn.com) and a bunch of other on-line book stores for around $12. Here's a tip - go to www.isbn.nu - this is an excellent site for searching for books - and it does an automatic price comparison of any book from about 10 big name on-line book stores. This site also tips you off to many e-coupon offers that can save you even more money (bn.com in particular has lots of coupon offers). I plan to order the book today myself... says its in stock, ready to ship in 24 hours from bn.com. I'm gonna order another book ($21) as well, then use a $10 off $30 purchase e-coupon to get both books for about $28 including shipping - If I were to walk into a book store and buy the second book alone it would cost me $26. Bargain! Cheers, John Doherty Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 17:17:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Abene <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: AHA BOA CONGRATS!!! Congrats Pat, Louis and Randy! I look forward to good things from you guys! C'ya! -Scott ===== ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT Scott Abene <skotrat at mediaone.net> http://www.skotrat.com (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) "The More I know about beer politics, The more I wish I made 120k" __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 24 May 2000 21:47:10 -0500 From: "Clint Thessen" <hausbrauer at freewwweb.com> Subject: Beechwood Chip Usage at A-B Hi Folks, I'm surprised no one has stated the real reason that A-B uses beechwood chips, especially people that went to MCAB II. Per Steve Michalak, a master brewer from A-B who was at MCAB II, the beechwood chips are used as a settling surface for their highly flocculant yeast, irregardless of what the marketing folks. This allows the yeast to come into contact with more aging beer than if it settled on the bottom of the tank. Prost! Clint Thessen O'Fallon, MO (~ 535 mi SSW of Jeff Renner) Return to table of contents
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