HOMEBREW Digest #3396 Sat 05 August 2000

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  The ease of beermaking ("Brian Lundeen")
  Re: Jugding ("Paul Carmichael")
  Re. Judging ("Jeffry D Luck")
  Stupid brewer trick #1739a (Eric Reimer)
  Hi (DGScuba)
  (no subject) (DGScuba)
  Can I be an Aussie (LyndonZimmermann)
  Re: Maize Malting for a different brew. ("J. Kish")
  repost of a/b amylase (Regan Pallandi)
  Re: To be an aussie; mash times (Ant Hayes)
  Promash software ("Braam Greyling")
  Vernor's recipe?? ("Blanchard, Steven B. Col DTHC-Pentagon")
  Attaching Bottle Caps: Thanks (Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger)
  Re: dry hopping (KMacneal)
  anchor tour ("Czerpak, Pete")
  Attaching bottlecaps ("Bev D. Blackwood II")
  The rainbow yawn ("Dave Edwards")
  Hot Break-- Definition ("Peter J. Calinski")
  Black Cat Mild (Jeff Renner)
  Re: yobbos and water (Jeff Renner)
  brewing in Sioux Falls? (Martin Dennis)
  Re: Aussie Nonsense Or Scientific Thirsting? (Jeff Renner)
  multiple hot/cold breaks ("Czerpak, Pete")
  Re: Nonsense and Scientific Thirsting ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Yeast wars are on... (happydog)
  Bottle Caps / Stuck Again ("Bob Sutton")
  Beta amylase lifetime (Dave Burley)
  attaching bottlecaps... ("Alan Meeker")
  ???'s about Doc"Otis' (hal)
  Better Burradoo Backyard Bathysphere Beliefs ("Phil & Jill Yates")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 13:17:36 -0500 From: "Brian Lundeen" <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: The ease of beermaking Dave Burley comments: > I suspect that making beer is so much work and takes such a long > concentrated effort to be successful that few true > alcoholics ("drunks") > take up this hobby. > Unfortunately, this is no longer true. While brewing beer is time consuming, even if you are using extracts, "making" beer is becoming as simple as turning grape juice into wine. BrewHouse and WortWorks sell high-gravity worts that require only an addition of water and yeast. Paddock Wood, and probably other places, are selling pails of fresh wort to their local customers that only require pitching the yeast. In other words, there is a growing market for taking the brewing out of homebrewing. This is not necessarily a bad thing. BrewHouse kits got me started before I leapt into all-grain. Anything that gets more people started into the hobby is good for the hobby as a whole, although it would be nice if people progressed beyond that stage. On the down side, it does open up the world of "beermaking" to those whose sole interest is lowering the cost of feeding their alcohol consumption habit. In Canada, a bottle of BrewHouse beer costs about 35 cents, once you get past the initial equipment costs. If you're sucking back a half dozen wobbly pops a day, the savings quickly add up, and all it takes is a couple of hours of your time TOTAL to ferment, prime and bottle. Hell, if you're going through them that fast you don't really need to do more than give the bottles a good rinsing. They won't be around long enough to get infected and if they did, would the guzzler even care? Nope, it's never been easier for the drunks to get into homebrew..., excuse me, beermaking. The fact that we do not consider them to part of the homebrew fraternity, per se, is likely a subtlety that will be lost on the general populace. Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 15:37:34 -0400 From: "Paul Carmichael" <hoagie2 at home.com> Subject: Re: Jugding Thanks for the response. Guess I should have included what part of the world I'm. I'm in the Tidewater area of Virginia. Any where withing a 50 mile radius I would be willing to bring a sample. Mailing isnt outa the question either. Kitchen supplies right? Paul Return to table of contents
Date: 03 Aug 2000 13:11:12 -0700 From: "Jeffry D Luck" <Jeffry.D.Luck at aexp.com> Subject: Re. Judging >From: "Paul Carmichael" <hoagie2 at home.com>: > >Would anyone be willing to give me prejudge on a beer Im entering in a >comptetion. This will be my first and I'm just a bit curious how my beer >stands up. Well, SURE! Just let me jot down my address.... Actually, Pat has the full list of 'potential judges'. Pay special attention to the 'non-drunks' category. -JL Salt Lake City, UT Having a wonderful wine. Wish you were beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 17:16:54 -0400 From: Eric Reimer <eric at etymonic.com> Subject: Stupid brewer trick #1739a Hi all. I have a short stupid brewer trick story followed by a couple of questions. I recently bottled a batch using in part a Phils Philler and a plastic bottling bucket. After bottling, my typical cleanup includes soaking the bottling bucket plus miscellaneous plastics like hoses etc. used in bottling, in a diluted bleach solution. Here's the stupid trick. I decided that I would throw in the Philler as well. I had intended on only leaving the Philler in the bleach solution for ten or so minutes, but as luck would have it, I got busy doing other tasks and left it overnight. When I remembered what I had done, I went to empty out the bucket and retrieve the Philler. What I found was a black substance leaking from the Philler on to the bottom of the pail. I *think* the Philler is made from brass and coated with some nickel alloy. Upon emptying the bucket I rinsed everything with hot tap water. I also tried scrubbing the black stuff off with my fingers and a soft sponge, but this did not help. My questions. 1. What is this black stuff? 2. How do I remove it from my pail and Philler? 3. Will the Philler be safe to use, assuming it can be cleaned? Thanks for any help, Eric Barking Dogs Brewing Co. London, Ontario Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 18:01:51 EDT From: DGScuba at aol.com Subject: Hi I have just been introduced to home brewing and I have made two batches successfully with the help of friends and the local brew shop. I have also learned that I am not ready to venture out into the field of making witches potions! I have found it hard to find beginner and intermediate brewing recipes, does anyone now of web addresses or books I could purchase to build on my knowledge and fill my belly? Any help would be muchly appriciated! DGScuba at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 18:11:08 EDT From: DGScuba at aol.com Subject: (no subject) Hello again, as to the question about Bramling Cross, I am sitting on the second fermentation of a batch using Bramling Cross and I will let you know how it turns out! DGScuba Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:25:31 +0930 From: LyndonZimmermann <lyndonz at senet.com.au> Subject: Can I be an Aussie From: "Leland Heaton" Graham, Phil, Jill, Keith, Lyndon, etc...Can I be an Aussie? :).. < I pondered this until Graham bobbed in. It depends on who you want to adopt you. As Graham pointed out, the apprenticeship for being from the north is pretty tough, though probably easier for foreigners than southeners. Many don't survive. It's time consuming to become an honorary aborigine, and that's a totally different program to becoming a Queenslander. It's a lot easier in the southern states, but you'd just be filling the vacuum left by southerners heading north. (Don't remind me) A funny surname helps. Then there's places like Coober Pedy (outback opal mining town), just foreigners of every creed. They'll stitch you up with citizenship before you even land, if you happen to sit next to one on the flight over and let on you like beer, flies and dust. Lyndon Z Lyndon Zimmermann 24 Waverley St, Mitcham, South Australia, 5062 tel +61-8-8272 9262 mobile 0414 91 4577 fax +61-8-8172 1494 email lyndonz at senet.com.au URL http://users.senet.com.au/~lyndonz Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 21:47:53 -0700 From: "J. Kish" <jjkish at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Maize Malting for a different brew. Concerning Keith Menefy's post about brewing a beer using malted maize: That sounds like a new direction to go for a special CAP type brew! Keith likes the flavor. Lots of people are enjoying CAP's since it was brought to light from past history. I considered brewing a modernized version of an old Mexican brew: a Chicha. Being as how nobody sells Corn Malt, They malt thier own, then they crush it. They use some strange ingrediants which I will replace with more modern malts. In Place of I will us _______________ _______________ Malta Beer................Six Row Pale Xingu Black Beer..........Aromatic Malt Chancaca Sugar............Caramel Pils Malt Clove-Cinnamon............Irish Moss They mash the mixture at 160F for one hour, then they collect first runnings for the boil. It should make an interesting brew! Joe Kish Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 16:43:47 +1000 From: Regan Pallandi <regan at esb.net.au> Subject: repost of a/b amylase my post from yesterday seemed to get chopped up, ending up making no sense at all (no comments on this being the usual state of affairs....) what it should have said was: Brad asked about mashing in high and allowing temps. to drop. My own observation is through an overnight mash, which obviously starts high and ends low. The few I have done seem to have 2 common characteristics - very high extraction (in the most recent case, was aiming for a 1.048 wort and ended up with 1.060) and high fermentability - the same wort has ended up at 1.010 using Whitelabs San Fran lager. Dave B. was alluding to this in his latest post also. cheers, Regan Eastern Suburbs Brewmaker 149 Clovelly Rd. Randwick, 2031 N.S.W. Australia ph/fax (02) 9399 8241 mailto:regan at esb.net.au http://www.esb.net.au Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:27:11 +0200 From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes at FifthQuadrant.co.za> Subject: Re: To be an aussie; mash times Leland Heaton, confessed, "I am still a youngin, don't exactly know what chunder is " Have you never heard of "Chuck Chunder and the Space Patrol"? How much beer would Chuck Chunder chuck, if Chuck Chunder chugged too much beer? On a separate note: when mashing with a combination of barley malt and a grain without much amylase - is there a rule of thumb as to how much longer you need to mash for? Ant Hayes Brewing where beer was invented. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 12:47:32 +0200 From: "Braam Greyling" <braam.greyling at azoteq.com> Subject: Promash software Hi all, Any opinions on ProMash software ? Would it be suitable for infusion, step and decoction mashing ? I find that SUDS' mashing component is not satisfactory. Regards Braam Greyling Snr. Design Engineer Azoteq(Pty)Ltd PLEASE NOTE NEW CONTACT DETAILS: Tel +27 21 8711730 Fax +27 21 8729973 braam.greyling at azoteq.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 07:03:59 -0400 From: "Blanchard, Steven B. Col DTHC-Pentagon" Subject: Vernor's recipe?? Recently there have been some threads on brewing ginginger beer. Was wondering if anybody has tried to brew anything similar to Vernor's ginger ale. I can remember as a boy growing up in Michigan taking a sip or two of this concoction--remember it as very strong and burning all the way down. I didn't appreciate it as a boy but probably would now. I know it is still made but wonder if it is the same version of that I remember from the early sixties. Has anybody attempted to duplicate that Vernor's taste?? Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 07:14:20 -0400 From: Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger <katerob at erols.com> Subject: Attaching Bottle Caps: Thanks Thanks to all who responded with suggestions as to how to attach bottle caps to clothing. While my house rang with a resounding forehead slap as I said 'I should have thought of that,' none of the respondents to my question were snide -- that I could tell anyway ;-). - --Rob Hanson The Closet Brewery 'post tenebras lux' Washington, DC - ---- "...They have worked their will on John Barleycorn But he lived to tell the tale, For they pour him out of an old brown jug And they call him home brewed ale." Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 07:15:48 EDT From: KMacneal at aol.com Subject: Re: dry hopping In a message dated 8/4/2000 12:39:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com> writes: << Another question: When one dry hops during racking to the secondary, do you put the hop leaves in the secondary first then rack? The hops seems to float to the top of the secondary which makes me wonder how much flavor will be imparted to the beer. Should I agitate the carboy by a little shaking to redistribute every so often? >> When I dry hop I put the hops in the secondary first and rack the beer onto them. I then leave it alone for 2 weeks undisturbed (i.e. no shaking). The hops flavor is there despite the hops floating at the top. RDWHAHB. Keith MacNeal Worcester, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 08:57:47 -0400 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: anchor tour I just got back a few days ago from the Anchor tour. Wow!! It was excellent and tasting the fresh stuff was a treat. In the beginning of the tour they talk a bit about each of there brews and give some history. We were lucky enough to get to sample the Liberty ale before the tour even started and I was psyched. I almost jumped over the bar to grab it. I don't know how much of this info has been printed in the past but here is some stuff that is new I think. They brew 110 barrel batches. They use first runnings from 3 mashes to make the Old Foghorn. Only Foghorn and Libery are dryhopped. They wouldnt confirm if the same hops for dryhopping were used in both although it sure smelled like it. Small beer is now available in keg as well as the old bottle as well. mash time on all beers is 90 minutes. They krausen their beer at 3 days after fermentation begins by filling tank to 85% full with 3 day old beer and then filling remainder with 1 day old beer. They flash pasterize. annual production is 100,000 barrels. this compares to about 500,000 at Sierra nevada supposedly. tend to do 4-5 batches per day each taking about 4-5 hours to complete. only lager made now is Steam. Porter is 10% dark grains (chocolate and black patent). the mash is direct gas fired and mash is at multiple temps from I think 117 to 170 or so. production schedule tends to be all lager or all ale on a daily basis. 70% of production is steam beer. their fermentation tanks are stainless and not on the roof even though in the ol`days they were redwood pitch lined and on the roof. small beer is 2.7% ABV. old foghorn is brewery aged for 6-9 months and varies greatly in alcohol per year from mid 8 to 10ish. their hop room smells fanatstic. wish I could have taken a bail of hops home with me. the hallway between the stairs and the bathroom smells just like malt. perhaps the mill is located somewhere near there. they said that the grain is weighed and ground somewhere up thereabove the mash tuns. their 3 vessel system is about 50 yrs old and copper. pretty neat looking for sure.] very fun tour and I'll go back for sure again. Getting to taste all their brews was fun. Plenty to drink for sure with multiple tastings if you wanted. guess I tried Liberty around 5 times and Foghorn 2 or 3. Sample size was perhaps 4-6 oz. I was surprized how much aroma of roast and chocolate the porter had when sampled. i don't think that this travels well heading east. we headed up to the Tornado for a quick drink so I could check it out and we had some Boont Amber from anderson valley and I had a Hop 2 It by ???. The Boont was good on tap and the Hop 2 It seemed to have too much diacetyl. Gotta get there for the Barley wine festival. Over to Ali Babas cave for mediteranean dinner and then jump a red eye back to NY. On my brew news, just getting a Thames Valley starter going for a rye ale and a smoked porter in the next few weeks. Pete czerpak albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 08:47:32 -0500 From: "Bev D. Blackwood II" <blackwod at rice.edu> Subject: Attaching bottlecaps How I have seen it done: 1) Get a hot glue gun.. nothing is ever any fun if you can't burn yourself trying. 2) Get some thin (1/8-3/16") urethane foam, cut into squares that mostly fill the bottlecap 3) Find a hobby store and hold your breath as you get past the scented candles until you find "tie-tac" type fasteners Buy some. 4) Put the sharp side of the tac's back through the foam squares. 5) Put hot glue on the bottlecap's inside surface (or on the foam square, or both, just to be safe) 6) Stick the foam back firmly to the inside of the bottlecap, taking care not to puncture yourself on the pointy end of the tac. 7) Let cool 8) Stick the pointy end through the garment (or body part, if you're in to that sort of thing) and secure it with the tac's clasp. 9) Impress your friends with spiffy bottlecap attire... ooooo, ahhhhhh! -BDB2 Bev D. Blackwood II http://www.bdb2.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 23:37:20 +0930 From: "Dave Edwards" <eddiedb at senet.com.au> Subject: The rainbow yawn Leland Heaton put forth the folowing: > I am still a youngin, don't exactly know what chunder is but I'll give it a > go. Mate, it is because you're a youngin' that you will be well familiar with the art of the 'chunder'. A rainbow yawn is my personal favourite expression, but chundering is the result of partaking in just that bit too much homebrew, and deciding that you just needed another look at it. > Once again...I lack the culture, I don't know "CARTON", | A carton mate, is 24 beers wrapped in a box (I believe you may call them a 'case' or a 'slab') >If I yak, I yak, but I will try any drink, just to expierence. See mate, you know what a blunder is, seems that you've got the art down too. The art itself can be divided into two categories, consistency, and distance. It is often a begginners mistake to go for consistency, that's how you can always tell a pro, they're shootin' it out a looooooong way. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 02:19:56 -0400 From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com> Subject: Hot Break-- Definition In response to Ant Hayes who wrote: >In a post yesterday, Peter J. Calinski asked, "How to create multiple hot >breaks and are they good or bad? " >He defined hot break as the foam at the start of the boil. Back to me. Sorry, I was a bit terse with my description of what I call hot break. When the wort is first heated, as it approaches boiling temperature, a layer of foam starts to form. As the boil starts, this layer becomes quite thick in both dimension and density. I have to carefully control the temperature or it will boil over quite easily. After some number of minutes, this foam begins to disappear and soon, all is gone and the surface of the wort is clear, even under a hard rolling boil. Later, I have found that if I add water to top off the level, or in the case of a few days ago, I dropped in the immersion chiller, the same process described above is repeated. My question was, is this detrimental of beneficial to the final product? Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 08:53:59 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Black Cat Mild Thanks to Keith Busby <kbusby at facstaff.wisc.edu> for relaying the report that Moorhouse's Black Cat mild from Burnley, Lancashire, won the Best Beer in Britain at the GBBF. That is good news for mild lovers. Here are some details about the beer from the CAMRA Real Ale Almanac: Black Cat Mild OG 1034 ABV 3.2% Ingredients: Halcyon pale malt (60%), chocolate malt (10%), invert sugar (17%), flaked maize (13%). Fuggles whole hops. Tasting notes: Nose: Roasted grain and nut aromas Palate: Chocolate notes in mouth, sweet but dry finish Comments: Dark mild with roast malt character. I note that this is a lot of adjunct, and wonder if the invert sugar is caramelly. The invert I tasted in Essex had a mild flavor. There is also a lot of chocolate malt, which might contribute to the noted dry finish, but that might also come from hops. I wish the hopping lever were reported. And, of course, the yeast used would have a big influence on the character of the beer. Moorhouse has been around since 1865, so it may well use an old, unique strain. Wish we could taste it. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 08:35:50 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: yobbos and water Keith Busby <kbusby at facstaff.wisc.edu> writes >On a beer-related topic, I have just brewed my first beer at the new >residence here in SE Wisconsin. The water is well-water, run through a >softener with salt-pellets. I also noticed that said pellets have an >additive which is supposed to preserve the softener device. It will be >three weeks before I can sample the beer, but does anyone have experience >of brewing with water from such a set-up? It's generally not a good idea to use softened water in brewing - and it's especially important not to use it for all grain brewing, at least not as is. The reason is that the softener substitutes two sodium ions for every calcium ion in the water (it also replaces the magnesium). We want calcium for the mash enzymes to work properly, and sodium is generally not wanted in very high levels. If your water is hard enough (enough calcium and magnesium) to warrant softening, then you'll have an awful lot of sodium. Your unsoftened water may be fine for brewing, but you should get an analysis first of the important stuff - calcium, sulfate, total hardness, alkalinity, iron - you could search the archives for more detail. I hope you'll report back on how the beer turned out. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 10:33:18 -0400 From: Martin Dennis <martin.dennis at yale.edu> Subject: brewing in Sioux Falls? Hi folks, First, I'd like to thank everybody on the list for providing great brewing info and daily breaks from the dissertation. Second, I'm moving soon to Sioux Falls, South Dakota. Anyone here know anything about brew stores and brewpubs in the area? Private emails fine. TIA. Finally moving back to the upper Midwest US, Marty Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 10:35:00 -0400 From: "FLEMING, JOE" <JOE.FLEMING at spcorp.com> Subject: HBD? Dear Janitor, My Homebrew Digest subscription seems to have been interrupted first by some Australian culture chat room and now by a seeming hybrid between Miss Manners and Political Correctness Weekly. Please resume my subscription to the valuable Homebrew Digest. Thanks, Joe Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 10:46:23 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Aussie Nonsense Or Scientific Thirsting? rlabor at lsuhsc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) writes: >I had this idea that maybe I can weigh the water first, then >start carbonating and then weigh again and see how much the scale will show >me. > >So for now this is the end of the story. I will try it very soon and report >the results. Would anyone like to guess the outcome? A mole of CO2 weighs 44 grams and occupies 22.4 liters at standard temperature and pressure. So if you are carbonating your 2 liters of water with 2 volumes at STP, the CO2 would weigh about 8 grams. Of course, at colder temperatures, 2 volumes would be more gas and would weigh more, but that requires more calculations than I feel like doing. At any rate, it seems it would be measurable by an accurate scale. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 11:12:21 -0400 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: multiple hot/cold breaks Pete calinski asks: So my questions are: Why does adding low temperature water or an immersion chiller cause the foam to form. (In the case of the immersion chiller, a layer of copper oxide comes off each time but I don't know if that is useful information.)? Multiple breaks are caused by the decrease in temperature causing material that was soluble at high temperatures to crash out of solution when you pass through the "meta-stable" solubility zone that exists above the solubility limit. The layer of copper oxide that comes off may provide additional nucleation sites (termed "seeding") for further material to crash out of solution and crystallize/precipitate on. The foam would be caused by the rapid formation of small solids sites for boiling bubbles to nucleate and grow on. Even if your oxide layer isn't flaking off, it is most likely rough enough to provide nucleation sites. Presumably, these breaks probably cause less of a cold break to occur later in the process upon chilling thus perhaps reducing cold break material that makes it into your primary fermentor. One might think that intermediately formed hot break material may solubilize after boiling temperature is reached and this is probably partially true. Hope this helps. Nice to see my crystallization course helping in something besides work. Pete czerpak albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 10:59:32 -0400 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Re: Nonsense and Scientific Thirsting Ron wrote: >Well, as I was shaking, I was thinking, >how can I know when I have just the right amount of carbonation. I was also >thinking about the great little Ohaus beam scale my son gave me for >Christmas (great gift). It is so sensitive that I can detect the addition >of 2 barley grains when weighing some grain. This seems quite sensitive, I >thought. Well, I had this idea that maybe I can weigh the water first, then >start carbonating and then weigh again and see how much the scale will show >me. At first I thought it would be like trying to weigh a fart, but I decided it would be a good exercise in seeing if I still remember my chemistry. Plus, it's been about a decade since I used this equation last and it still plagues my nightmares - even many years after college. Some psychologists believe it's best to confront your demons to chase them away. Here goes... Let's assume that you're drinking you average beer served up in a pint glass at 45 degrees F and carbonated at 2.5 volumes. You'd need to pressurize your keg to 13.3 psi to get that level of carbonation. Now that's 13.3 over standard pressure (which is 14.7 psi) so you really have 28 psi on your beer to work in the Ideal Gas Law equation. Your pint glass is 0.47 Liters, but you're shoving 2.5 times that volume (1.175 L) into it, so you will need to know how many grams of CO2 is in 1.175 L of gas at 45 F and 28 psi. Do a few conversions of your numbers to get them into the SI system and plug 'em into the PV=nRT equation. Solve for n and you'll get 0.0973 moles. CO2 has a MW of 44.01 g/mol so that leaves us with a grand total of 4.28g of CO2 in your pint glass. You should be able to measure this on your balance. This just doesn't look right to me, but I've checked my math a few times and all adds up. Can we get a REAL chemist to check this? Then maybe I can sleep well at night again ;-) If my math is OK then your actual observed value may be off a little since you'll lose some CO2 upon dispense, plus you'll have to tare a degassed sample. Would I bother with this? No. Stick to the carbonation charts and if you trust your thermometer and your regulator, you'll be better off. Carpe cerevisiae! Glen Pannicke http://www.pannicke.net "He was a wise man who invented beer" - Plato Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 17:20:07 GMT From: happydog at nations.net Subject: Yeast wars are on... I just got my bi weekly White Labs shipment and it looks like they have felt/seen the Wyeast shampoo bottle. White labs has easily doubled the amount of yeast per a much larger, base ball bat like, tube. If this keeps up I will soon be selling full pint jars of white labs yeast right from the fridge. ;-) Anyone pitched one yet? Wil Kolb Happy Dog Brewing Supplies 401 W.Coleman Blvd Mt Pleasant SC 29464 843-971-0805 Fax 843-971-3084 1-800-528-9391 happydog at nations.net www.maltydog.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 15:00:47 EDT From: "Bob Sutton" <anerobe at hotmail.com> Subject: Bottle Caps / Stuck Again Rob asked... >>>Can any of you brew-inventers think of a way to attach (unflattened) bottle caps to an item of clothing (a hat, a vest) without piercing the top of the cap?<<< One word... VELCRO Edward bemoaned... >>>I swear I will never ever use pellet hops again. I just finished my second ever-mashed beer and it was nowhere near as easy as the first. First I got a stuck sparge. I couldn't recalculate much because it blocked up this will teach me to use oats and more wheat than barley when I cant get rice hulls.<<< Generally "more wheat" will increase the liklihood of a stuck sparge. Looking at your recipe, I would increase the 2-row to ~50% - of course that will alter the style/taste profile. >>>I couldn't get the hops I wanted in plugs so I used pellets unfortunately >>>the bags broke and the kettle straining system is badly clogged. In >>>future if I cant get plug hops I wont be brewing.<<< I feel you pain (been there, burped...). When I can't avoid pellets, I limit my straining activities to a copper scrubby enshrined in cheese cloths (no heroics...). Failing that, I let the trub pass through knowing that I will leave much of it in the decantation to the secondary. Having a few extra beers at that time helps too... ;-) Bob Fruit Fly Brewhaus Yesterdays' Technology Today ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 16:05:52 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Beta amylase lifetime Brewsters: Aaron Sepanski said something like "Bet beta amylase is denatured at 150F". I'll bet you'd be wrong, Aaron. We have had many long, heated discussions on this subject ( see the HBD archives) . But in practical terms beta amylase <in a mash of normal thickness at the normal calcium content , normal temperature program, etc., etc.> will have a halflife of somewhere around 15 minutes even at 158F. SO given the higher reaction rate at 158F it is still pretty effective for maybe 30 to 45 minutes. I am curious about how you came to the conclusion you had to add beta amylase enzymes and other enzymes to your rmashes. Why, how and when? - ----------------------------------- Ron. I suggest you weigh the CO2 cylinder to see how much you have added rather than the keg. Better chance to get a good result,IMHO and it will put less strain on the scale. I have used a postal scale like this with a small cylinder. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 16:49:07 -0400 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: attaching bottlecaps... Attaching bottlecaps to clothing? One word: "Velcro." -Alan Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 16:23:13 -0500 From: hal <hwarrick at springnet1.com> Subject: ???'s about Doc"Otis' Hey can anyone tell me the calories a bottle of this stuff has ? The label says nothing, the Busch site doesn't seem to say. Is this worth trying to recreate ? Hal Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 08:56:12 +1000 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Better Burradoo Backyard Bathysphere Beliefs For Jeff, Glen and anyone else interested, Eric Ahrendt emailed me to suggest that when the regulator is set to a pressure, it's internal mechanism will maintain this pressure against ambient, regardless of ambient changes. So, if Jill pulled the big lever to vacuumate (my own word here) Wes and me (which she would dearly love to do, if only I would give her the opportunity) the pressure reading on the regulator would remain unchanged. So if it was set at 15psi (which is really 30psi above absolute), it would remain at 15psi after evacuation. Similarly, if Jill slaved away for half the day on the billows in an attempt to blow Wes and me up, despite a much greater pressure within the bathysphere, our regulator would still read 15psi. Thinking about it, I suspect Eric's suggestion is correct. Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
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