---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


***************************************************************
       THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: 

          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
            www.northernbrewer.com 1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********


Contents:
  Progress of sponsorship drive (The Home Brew Digest)
  Mail Order Supplies??? ("Shane A. Saylor, Eccentric Bard")
  Make the best of a bad situation (Christopher Farley)
  censorship (Ray Kruse)
  Ordinary Bitter (Ant Hayes)
  censorship? ("Alan McKay")
  Dripping fridge (fridgeguy)
  re: mash hopping and literature (Matthew Comstock)
  more mash hopping brilliance (Marc Sedam)
  Steve's wort chiller project (Vachom)
  Dixie Cup Deadlines! ("Bev D. Blackwood II")
  The Lager from Down Under ("Alan Meeker")
  DMS (Dave Burley)
  re: pumpkin Ale (Brent Dowell)
  RE: censorship (LaBorde, Ronald)
  home malting and a WARNING! (Clif Moore)
  Hop harvest.. browning (RiedelD)
  Kettle covers (BrewInfo)
  dry-coriandering (Aaron Robert Lyon)
  Burst/Batch Sparging ("pksmith_morin")
  Fw: ("lauritsm")


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 18:14:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Home Brew Digest <hbd at brew.oeonline.com>
Subject: Progress of sponsorship drive 


Brewers,

You may have noticed Northern Brewer's URL and 800 number gracing our
masthead the last couple of Digests. Northern Brewer has committed the
funds necessary for the operations of the HBD from October 1, 2000 through
September 30, 2001. A special thanks goes out to Chris Farley and everyone
else at Northern Brewer who made this happen! Support those who support
you!

Todd Goodman, an individual donor, has also come forward and made the
Server Fund $2400 richer. In exchange for this generous donation, since
the masthead spot had already been filled for the year, we will be
founding the Wayne Pecknold Brewers Memorial page on the HBD site. This
page will contain brief tributes to those fellow brewers who have gone on
before us. The page is still being developed, and will be conceptually
similar to the memorial plaques seen in the entrances of certain clubs,
churches and other organizations. Donations for entries onto the page will
be added to the HBD server fund.

There have been other inquiries regarding other levels of sponsorship, and
there has been an increased level of donation activity as well. Thanks to
you all for helping to assure the future of the HBD.

==========

Several have questioned, both publicly and privately, the expense of DSL
as required for the HBD. Most cite costs of $39/month as a comparator.
$39/month is typical for a user grade ADSL line. These lines provide
speeds up to their cited maximum with no guarantee of the speed, nor any
guarantee for uptime.

The $200/month the HBD has been quoted is for a commercial grade
connection, guaranteeing 98% uptime and a minimum connection speed of
384kbps in either direction. Note the uptime guarantee and the minimum
speed guarantee - neither of which come with a $39/month ADSL line. On the
good news side, due to the sponsorship donations received to date, we have
bartered this rate down to $179/month, saving the HBD $240/year for the
next year. With improvements to the technology, we hope this rate will
continue to decline over the years to come.

Note also that the 384kbps is optimal for the mailing of the digest. This
should be more than adequate for the web and ftp side of the "business" as
well, but we may have to consider "blacking out" the website while the
smtp (email) server consumes the bandwidth. For most, this will be in the
wee hours. Unfortunately, the further East you go from the Eastern
Seaboard of the US, the more likely your browsing will be impacted. We
will closely monitor the two in the initial period of the new arrangement
to see if this is going to be an issue.

Finally, paperwork to reassign the registrant of hbd.org from O&E to HBD
is underway, and the DSL line is ordered (we're awaiting an installation
date. Ho hum. Gives Pat time to find a spot in the basement for the
machines).

- -- 
Cheers!

The Home Brew Digest Janitorial Staff







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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 00:17:43 -0400
From: "Shane A. Saylor, Eccentric Bard" <taliesin2 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Mail Order Supplies???

Does anybody know of stores that do mail order supplies for home brewing?
I knew of a store called the Gourmet Brewer run by a guy named Dave Bartz.
Any ideas if they are still in business? Any other stores? TIA
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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 00:05:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Christopher Farley <chris at northernbrewer.com>
Subject: Make the best of a bad situation

"patrick finerty jr." wrote:
 
> Carm complains about his now thinly flavored Hefe following freezing
> of the once tasty brew. i suspect your problem is that the freezing
> caused protein precipitation or precip of other compounds that provide
> mouthfeel and also some flavor. short of adding gelatin or guar gum i
> don't think you can recover the thickness you had. 

Perhaps one of the best things to do with a frozen keg of hefe weizen is
to pump the liquid into another keg, and enjoy a nice 'ice-brewed'
weizen-bock. I have never had anybody complain about a lack of body,
flavor or clairity in any of my (unintentionally) iced beers.

- ----
Christopher Farley
Northern Brewer / 1150 Grand Avenue / St. Paul, MN 55105
www.northernbrewer.com



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Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 02:49:54 -0400
From: Ray Kruse <rkruse at bigfoot.com>
Subject: censorship

Me:
I didn't take Pat's post as a request to 'dictate content' but rather
simply a request to deliver the content in a non offensive manner.
As a matter of fact he wrote:

"Please contain your exuberance in your writings. Certain words for
excrement, biological functions and body parts are triggering these
filters when found in scanning the HBD. There's really no need at all to

contain these terms in your writings."

No big deal really, IMO. Believe me I am no fan of corporate bean
counters, nor am I in favor of people telling me how to act, or trying
to tell me what I should be offended at. But I'm seeing this more as a
common courtesy to fellow HBD readers. The content doesn't have to
change, just reword it.

*********
We'll, as with all dictated morality, someone will be offended
somewhere, no matter what you say.  It's my turn now.

I'm offended that you would allow some prude of a bean counter who
doesn't even subscribe to dictate what you may or may not say here, when
those who do subscribe haven't complained at all about the vocabulary
used.

Might as well publish a list of politically acceptable terms so there
will be no doubts as to what one can say.

Ray
Offended in Maryland (and that's pretty damned hard to do most of the
time)
Can I say 'damned'?



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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 09:46:20 +0200 
From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes at FifthQuadrant.co.za>
Subject: Ordinary Bitter

Regarding the Homebrew Publicity Campaign, and the use of the term bitter
reminds me of a quote of Moritz Kallmeyer, our club's founder. Reminiscing
about the days before marketing people became involved in brewing, he said
that it was a mark of a brewer's quality that his/her best seller could be
named "ordinary bitter".

Ant Hayes
Gauteng; South Africa


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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 06:36:02 -0400
From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com>
Subject: censorship?


Though I'm not quite sure I would consider it censorship, I am disappointed
that the content of the HBD should be dictated by a few people who are
too cheap to spend the $15 a month on an ISP to get internet at home.
I don't work for their company, but here I sit being negatively effected
by the policies of their companies.

I don't want to have to worry about the prudish policies of these
companies.  Nor should I have to.

 -Alan






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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 08:06:04 -0400
From: fridgeguy at voyager.net
Subject: Dripping fridge

Greetings folks,

 In HBD #3443, Scott, from Washington recently acquired a side-by-side
fridge that drips water on the floor.

 This is a frost-free fridge that will periodically shut the
compressor off and energize a heater on the evaporator coil to remove
any accumulated ice. Underneath the evaporator there will be a small
drain with a hose connected to it that runs to a catch pan under the
fridge.

 When all works correctly, the condensate will collect in the pan and
will be evaporated as fridge runs. The pan may rest on part of the
condenser coil or it may have a fan blowing across it to help speed
evaporation.

 I suspect one of two problems: The fridge's drip pan may have been
lost or bumped out of position as the fridge was moved to its new
location, or the evaporator drain hose has become either kinked or
plugged.

 Check the pan position (if it's still there) and try running a length
of coat hanger wire or similar up the drain hose to be sure it's
clear.

Hope this helps!
- ----------------------------------------
Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo
fridgeguy at voyager.net


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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 05:26:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matthew Comstock <mccomstock at yahoo.com>
Subject: re: mash hopping and literature

Yesterday I mentioned an article I had misplaced
about the analysis of hop oils in beer.  Found
it.  "Effect of Hopping on the Headspace Volatile
Composition of Beer," Murakami, A.A; Rader, S;
Chicoye, E.; Goldstein, H. Journal of the
American Society of Brewing Chemists , 1989, 47,
35.  I still don't know exactly where I got the
copy.

But check this out:

http://www.scisoc.org/asbc/

If you follow the links around you can search the
"Journal of the..." and download pdf copies of
the papers.  For example:

"Effect of Environmental Conditions on the
Flocculation of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Yu-Lai
Jin and R. Alex Speers," J. Am. Soc. Brew. Chem.
58(3):108-116, 2000.

Cool

Matt in Cincinnati

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Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:37:40 -0400
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu>
Subject: more mash hopping brilliance

It appears that Elvis has truly left the building...Mike K.
writes:

"Well, here's my 2 cents worth, I made a pale ale (10
gallons) with just pale ale malt and 6 oz. of cascades
(pellets) in the mash. No other hops were added. I know I
shouldn't expect any bitterness out of this addition but I
didn't want future additions to add any hop aroma which
would screw up the results.  Result: nothing! No hop aroma
or flavor whatsoever, also no hop bitterness. Methinks you
all are trying to reinvent the wheel, or else a "better" hop
aroma is indicative that you don't like a hop aroma.
                The real KING of beers,
                      -Elvis "

Ah yes.  Because Mike can't sense anything then nothing must
be happening and everyone else must just not like hops like
he does.  Elvis couldn't see his belt, but it didn't mean
the rhinestones weren't down there...

Rather than take a big ol' stone and hurl it, provide some
more details.  I assume the pellets were fresh?  What's the
water profile?  I've alluded to the fact that mineral
chemistry might be involved in the flavor somehow.  What did
you do with the mash?  Single step?  Decoction?  Give up a
few details.  In calculating what you'd expect from these
hops, I assumed that you made a pale ale of normal (1.050)
gravity and that the Cascades were 5%aa (although I've seen
Cascades much lower).  You would get approximately 18IBU out
of these assumptions.  If reality is different let us know.

IMHO, mash hopping provides a much subtler bitterness than
FWH or dry hopping.  With Cascades I'm not surprised that
the catty flavor wasn't the same.  Personally I find the
bitterness from Cascades a bit harsh.  I've only mash hopped
with British and noble hops...maybe the American hops don't
lend themselves well.  Dunno.  Any data out there?

I love hop flavor and aroma, and I know it when I taste it.
As mentioned earlier, MHing doesn't add much bitterness at
all (18 IBU).  It's very possible that the sweetness in your
beer would be masking any of the other good flavors from
MH.  The organoleptic properties of beer are a balancing
act.  Under-bittering a beer that is not fermented out dry
could be part of it.  I made a lager with 10lbs pale malt,
3oz Tettnang in the mash, and an ounce of Bullion in the
boil, and it had the most magical hop flavor and aroma
ever.  I have started to notice that my MH beers are a bit
on the sweet side.  So I'm going to recommend bumping the
bitterness (1.2x) up a pinch for beers which normally have
lots of late hop additions.

Not all the data regarding MHing is positive...nor would I
expect it to be.  But enough people have told me that they
love the flavors that result from the process for me to
believe it's not mass hysteria.  Add some hop extract to
bring up the bitterness of that pale ale and let us know if
different flavors come out.

I'm finally going to brew again (letting the mash sit while
I'm at work) tomorrow and will be tossing plenty of hoppy
goodness in the mash.

Cheers!
Marc



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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 08:26:18 -0500 
From: Vachom <MVachow at newman.k12.la.us>
Subject: Steve's wort chiller project

Steve:  The only homebrewer's wort chiller not in existence at present is an
independently chilled counterflow unit.  There are some excellent
counterflow chillers available at present--the Maxichiller and the
Chillzilla--but they are still dependent on the temp of one's tap water.
This forces those of us in warmer climates to pre-chill the water, which, of
course, means annoying ice expenses.  Well, what it really means is that
most of us just stop brewing from June - September.  Thus, the ultimate wort
chiller would be a mini-version of what the big boys use, some kind of
glycol jacketed, temp adjustable counterflow chiller that would allow
homebrewers to knock their wort down to ale and lager pitching temps in a
few minutes.  I'd happily shell out $200-300 for such an item.  I'd easily
make up the cost within a couple of years of brewing.  

Mike
New Orleans, LA


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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 08:29:00 -0500
From: "Bev D. Blackwood II" <blackwod at rice.edu>
Subject: Dixie Cup Deadlines!

Just a reminder to anyone entering the Dixie Cup (Oct 20-21, Houston, 
TX)  that the regular entry deadline is this Friday. (October 6th) 
and the fee is $6.00 per 3 bottle entry.  We have a late entry 
deadline (October 13th) for a whopping $10.00 and entry.  Forms and 
Competition information may be found at:
http://www.crunchyfrog.net/dixiecup/
Hope to see you (or at least your entries) there!
 -BDB2

Bev D. Blackwood II
http://www.bdb2.com/


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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:02:35 -0400
From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu>
Subject: The Lager from Down Under

I finally got a chance to try one of Phil's lagers at yesterday's Maryland
Microbrew fest. International jet-setter Ray Kruse was the courier bringing
back not only beer but pictures of the fabulous Buradoo estate as well. The
beer was incredibly pale but Ray insisted this was not a sample of the famed
Aussie rice lager. Excellent clarity and good carbonation. Nice aroma, body
and mouthfeel. The flavor was bang on and well-balanced. No off-flavors at
all in evidence. In desperation to find _some_ fault with this beer, I
latched onto the lack of head but Ray, swirling his cup, pointed out that
Phil in fact had no problems raising a head, it was rather the poor
staying-power that was the issue, difficulties that sadly seem to have
spilled over into other aspects of his life. But I digress, all in all a
very nice beer, I give it an 8.5/10 and Ray high marks as well for his now
proven ability to successfully transport beer without affecting its quality
(sorry Mr. Fouch).

Cheers Phil! By the way, you guys did a great job with the Summer
Olympics...

 -Alan Meeker





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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:47:27 -0400
From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com>
Subject: DMS

Brewsters:

DMS is dimethyl sulfide and it boils at 38C and is insoluble in water.
Water boils at 100C. 

For those of you who, given the above facts, still believe it is a problem
in the small ( i.e. non-commercial)  kettles we use, read up a little on
Steam Distillation in freshman chemistry books
 (i.e. one printed before they became Quantum Physics books).  I assume
this will explain to the diligent reader why we like to have around 10-15%
kettle loss on boiling to remove a number of smelly (high vapor pressure
and  likely sulfur containing)  substances with boiling points higher than
water and  the hour long rolling boil to get efficient hop extraction.

 In <partially> covered kettles, such as I recommend,  of the sizes we
normally use in homebrewing   and an hour long rolling boil, such as I
recommend, there is no danger of DMS sticking around from the boil.  

Keep on Brewin'

Dave Burley


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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 09:41:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brent Dowell <brent_dowell at yahoo.com>
Subject: re: pumpkin Ale

Well, 
I've brewed 3 pumpkin ales.  I changed my procedure a
little bit this last time as I kind of did a mini-mash
with the pumpkin.  I cleaned the seeds out of the
pumpkin, cut it up into bits and put it into a kettle
with a little water and steamed/boiled it for a while
to make sure I thouroughly gelatanized all of the
starch.  I let that cool down to mashing temps and
added in some crushed malt.  Meantime, I got the rest
of the mash rarin to go and then added in the
pumpkin/barly soup.  This seemed to work pretty good,
but I did have a bit of a slow sparge.

My recipe for 10 gallons was about 20 pounds of malt
and 9 pounds of pumpkin.  Might be a little high on
the pumpkin, but it seemed to work ok. 

This time, I'm going to do without the pie type
spices.  While It's kind of a nice novelty, I want to
see how it affects the flavor profile of a pretty
standard pale ale type recipe to just use pumpkin as
an adjunct.  I already know how rice and corn work, so
this isn't too far off, except for using an
exceedingly orange vegetable.

BTW,  I grew my own pumpkins the last two years for
this.  Found a variety called sugar sweet that
acutally reminds me more of a butternut squash than
pumpkin.  I might try to make a butternut squash beer
next.

Brent
Lone Unknown Brewing
Antioch, CA


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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 11:59:25 -0500 
From: rlabor at lsuhsc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: RE: censorship

From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU>

>OK so now the HBD is going to come under the same censorship that the FCC
>rams down our throats.  We are going to let a bunch of corporate bean
>counters dictate the content? 

Do any of you remember the "Water Wiggle".  Shown on thousands of TV
commercials years ago.  It connects to a water hose and wiggles and flops
about wildly.

Well, let's not be Water Wiggles, let's not allow ourselves to be yanked
around by every subtle nuance and event.  If someone gets filtered, a simple
email to the digest recipient informing him/her to deal with it by (kicking
a$$, or better yet, use the html) should set things in order again.  I have
switched to the html and dropped the email method.  It works much better,
does not burden our email system, and provides more privacy.

When home or on vacation, I go to any computer and http to hbd.org, could
not be simpler or better.  If one is paranoid rightly or wrongly, simply use
your modem connection with free software (available) to connect to the net
and have full privacy.  The corporate filters and bean counters will not be
aware you are there.

Ron La Borde

Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsuhsc.edu
http://hbd.org/rlaborde



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Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 10:01:34 -0800
From: Clif Moore <cmoore at gi.alaska.edu>
Subject: home malting and a WARNING!

More details on the home malting and a WARNING!

A kind reader pointed out to me that my previous post mentioned that I
was
investigating the use of seed barley for my malting use.

It was accurately pointed out that grains intended for use in planting
are
often treated with chemicals to protect them in storage and after
planting.
A color is often imparted by this process.
These grains SHOULD NOT BE USED.

My mention of seed grain prospects was intended to differentiate these
lots from those harvested for feed purposes. Seed stock is more in line
with the malters needs in that harvesting, handling, drying, and storage

conditions are geared to maintaining seed quality and viability.

Now for a review of what my garage looks like.  (I was asked for this
description by another reader and thus thought to provide it to HBD for
those of you who might be interested).

I have converted my one car garage to a floor malting plant.
Seasonal operations are required to allow a constant room temp of 55
deg. F
Steeping is done in plastic olive drums.
Batch size is approx. 150 lbs. dry weight
Floor impound space is 4ft. X 8ft. w/ the area divided into 1/3 and 2/3
spaces
to accommodate the volume change resulting from different germination
stages.
The kiln is a plywood contraption that suspends a metal pallet in a
heated forced air stream.
Hot water house heat is used to get a 14 hour kiln time w/ finish heat
of approx. 140 deg. F

At optimum performance I will have three stages in process at any time,
with a three to four day spacing on batches.  This yields an average
plant
production rate of approx. 50 lbs finished malt per day.

Winter 1999/2000 saw two malting sessions during which I produced just
under 2000 lbs of finished malt.

Future production is dependent on the availability of high quality
barley.
I have yet to start germination tests on any of my prospects.

Those of you who have read this far may now be of some help to me.
After stripping the kiln (standing on the pallet base inside the kiln
box and
shoveling 150 lbs. of matted dry malt into a barrel) I am faced with
removing the roots and separating malt.  At present this is accomplished

by running a large paint mixer up and down through the malt to strip
the roots.  Too little action and I get roots in the finished product.
Too much action and I damage the malt and turn the roots to dust.

I then drop the product through an air stream separator. This does a
nice
job of cleaning the seed but produces lung clogging dust.  Yes, I know
about breathing masks, but this is such a labor intensive stage that the

mask seems always to get lost. Did I mention that the root dust acts as
a skin irritant too?

What I need is a continuous process device that will ingest rooty malt
mats and exude finished malt, and at the same time bag up the roots.
(horses can be made to slobber at the prospect of eating these roots)

So I ask the vast collective, How do the big boys do this?  Who makes
the machine and how much does it cost?




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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 14:13:26 -0400 
From: RiedelD at pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca
Subject: Hop harvest.. browning

Well, I harvested some Willamette last week.

I believe I left them on the vine a little long as some were
quite brown before I picked them.

Now that they are off the vines and drying on window
screens, they seem to be browning moreso than previous
harvests.  Is this an effect of having harvested a bit late?

What's the best way to keep home-harvested hops 
vibrantly green from picking through to storage.

thanks,
Dave Riedel
Victoria, BC, Canada


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Date: Mon,  2 Oct 2000 16:16:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: brewinfo at xnet.com (BrewInfo)
Subject: Kettle covers

Spencer wrote to me privately and alerted me to the fact that my post
appears to contradict Dave Burley's.  It's good to see some things don't
change, eh ;^).

Seriously, Spencer said that Dave advocated a partly covered kettle and
someone posted that commercial kettles are mostly covered too.

I realised that I wasn't clear in my post on how much "uncoverage" is
necessary.  I keep my kettles mostly covered too... about 75% or so.
I should have been more clear in saying that the kettle shouldn't be
*completely* covered.  The DMS and other undesirable volatiles have to
have some way of escaping the kettle, but that doesn't mean that I
don't have the lid on at all.

Before I scaled up to an 18.75-gallon kettle and moved outdoors, I used
to brew in a 10-gallon kettle on a 12,000 BTU kitchen burner.  That setup
*required* me to cover the kettle about 75 to 85%, just to keep a good
rolling boil going.  I don't need to still do that with a 50,000 BTU
burner, but I do out of habit, I guess.

Al.

Al Korzonas, Lockport, Illinois, USA
korz at brewinfo.com
http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/


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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:11:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Robert Lyon <lyona at umich.edu>
Subject: dry-coriandering

OK, so I brewed a holiday ale about two months ago and have it tucked
away in the corner of my basement split into two 5 gal carboys.  I'm
thinking about dry-coriandering one of the carboys with about 1 oz of
cracked coriander seed and have two questions regarding this...

1. Has anyone ever done dry additions with coriander before?  If so, how
did they turn out?

2. Are there any special precautions I should take before I add it (i.e.
do I need to sanitize it somehow, etc)?

Thanks!
 -Aaron




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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 22:35:26 -0500
From: "pksmith_morin" <pksmith_morin at email.msn.com>
Subject: Burst/Batch Sparging

Hi guys - many queried privately re: batch/burst sparging.  I would encourage
checking out the issue as it was posted some time ago.  Without clouding up
the bandwidth too much, I hope I can help with the following summary:

Batch sparging involves dumping a quantum of sparge water into the (lautering)
mash, (re) vorlauf, and proceeding as normal, until the pressure differential
is great enough that another sparge "dump" is warranted, another round of
vorlauf is initiated, and so on, to the end of runoff.

Burst sparging, as I defined it at any rate, is slightly different.  With
burst sparging, you allow initial runoff to proceed as normal, almost until
the top of the grain bed is exposed - then gently, sparge water is allowed to
flow at a rate greater than the runoff rate, until a good 3-4" water column is
on top of the grain bed; the runoff is then allowed to proceed again until the
top is again almost exposed.  There is no need for a recirc, since the
pressure differential between the top and bottom of the grain bed is never
great enough to induce a turbid runoff surge.

What this does is sets up a "pump," of sorts.  Normal, or "fly sparging,"
allows a constant water column, and consequently constant pressure
differential (and all sorts of other things, including even diffusion of wort
and sparge water) to proceed evenly throughout the runoff.

The benefit of burst sparging is that there is a greater pressure
differential, as when a "column" of "clear" sparge water meets "dense" wort
embedded  in the grain, and then it is allowed to "bleed" down.  As I said, I
was skeptical of the technique, but have seen a dramatic shift in efficiency
since employing it.

I must also include that I runoff 14 gallons over the course of 90 minutes.  I
do not believe it is possible (although M. Lewis, of Davis, has said
otherwise) to extract very efficiently with a 45 minute runoff.  Try it!  90
minutes for both techniques:

"Fly sparging:"  Rate of runoff and rate of sparge remain equal throughout the
runoff; a constant water column remains above the mash bed throughout the
runoff;

"Burst sparging:"  Runoff is allowed to proceed until grain bed is nearly
exposed (say, 1/4"-1/2" water on top).  Sparge is gently "dumped" at a greater
rate than runoff until 3-4" is on top of the mash bed, and the procedure is
repeated, to the end of runoff.

Finally, you may be doing this already, but acidify the sparge to 5.5-5.7 pH,
to ensure  tannic compounds are not overly extracted near the end of runoff.

Hope this helps!

Paul




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Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 22:09:02 -0700
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Subject: Fw: 


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