HOMEBREW Digest #3548 Mon 05 February 2001

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  Making an electric heating element variable. ("Stephen M. Kunz")
  This makes a lot of sense! (Bob Sheck)
  Care of imported beers/Care of soil (Tom Smit)
  Re: Sanke Fermenter (Epic8383)
  Weizenbier -- stuck fermentation, or just newbie impatience?? ("Joel King")
  sarcasm / Belgian yeast attenuation (David Harsh)
  Grolsch (kbooth)
  Re: all grain questions ("Kurt Schweter")
  Re: Weizenbier -- stuck fermentation, or just newbie impatience?? (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Floor malted MO (Bill Riel)
  Devil Mountain 5-Malt Ale ("Michael O. Hanson")
  Re:  headspace & carbonation (chris buck)
  RE: Temperature Sensors ("Dave Howell")
  home vs. micro vs. commercial breweries??? ("Mike Capitain")
  Vacuum insulated Aero-Cans ("Bret Mayden")
  Temperature Sensors ("Peter Fitzsimons")
  question re high final gravity... (darrell.leavitt)
  Center of the Brewing Universe and CACA update (Jim Wilson)
  Balancing in Burradoo (David Lamotte)
  Hop "scum"; Wort clearing ("Joye & Kevin Sinn")
  foamy carboy head (Jack Corbett)
  caffrey irish ale ("mike o,neill")
  Too much of a good thing? (RBoland)
  Best of Brooklyn IV ("Kevin Winn")
  Re: Weizenbier -- stuck fermentation, or just newbie impatience?? (Brunnenbraeu)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 00:22:56 -0500 From: "Stephen M. Kunz" <inline at nettaxi.com> Subject: Making an electric heating element variable. Hello all, For a while now I've been looking for information on how to hook up a kitchen stove type controller to a 3000W (240V) water heating element to be used in a bucket boiler. I've checked the archives and found one posting by a Matt Koch (out of Montreal, Qc, Canada) who said he used this type of setup and it has worked great. Incidentally his last posting to the HBD was around 1998, so I was hoping maybe that anyone knew how to get a hold of Matt, or, could help me with some instruction on how to wire on of these babies up? (links on the net or private e-mail very welcome) Thanks in advance Stephen Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 00:41:02 -0500 From: Bob Sheck <bsheck at skantech.net> Subject: This makes a lot of sense! >Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 08:31:37 -0600 >From: Joe Yoder <headduck at swbell.net> >Subject: spruce Snip- >I use about 2 quarts of needles (loosely >packed in a quart jar). >hope this helps, Yes; Is this like jamming 4 pounds in a 2 pound sack? Do you pull the needles off the stalk? IMWTK- Bob Sheck Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 18:16:26 +0100 From: Tom Smit <lunica at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Care of imported beers/Care of soil Hi all, Out of many stubbies of Theakston Old Peculiar that I have tried I have only really liked one. That was the first stubbie ever that I bought, put in my wardrobe and then, silly fears/prejudice re flat warm UK beers coming to the fore, left there for 3 weeks (or more, I forget). I then chilled it and drank it and enloyed its body, mouthfeel, toffee taste etc. As I said, I have tried many stubbies TOP since and didn't taste anything like that first stubby. Two weeks ago I bought three UK ales, incl TOP, got crook (dehydrated & bronchitis at one and the same time) and so these beers just stayed in my brewfridge for two weeks. I have just opened & tasted the TOP and guess what, that lovely taste, mouthfeel etc is back. Tom's first law of brewing has just been formulated: let foreign/imported beers rest for a couple of weeks before drinking same. At the same time & for the same reason my garden has been largely unwatered for the past two weeks, in the middle of a heat wave. Yet today I picked a succulent, juicy rock melon (canteloupe) a bunch of flowers to brighten up my study and have tomatoes, crookneck squash in such profusion I have had to give a lot away. How is this? I do not grow hybrids so my flowers, fruits (I didn't tell you about my peaches) & vegies are more robust & hardy. More importantly I do not use soluble, ionic fertilisers, but compost & composted manures. Now, all this is strictly on-topic. If we are to maintain our lifestyles and access to lots of good, cheap & plentifull malt & hops we need to look after our soil and rivers. Here in Oz superphosphate is rendering ever more soil too saline to use and filling our major Darling/Murray river system with more and more algae. Another HBDer lamented the damage nitrogen fertilisers are doing to Canadian soils. Genetically Meddled Organisms and large doses water soluble ionic fertilisers are the wrong approaches. We must nurture the soil. Cheers Tom Smit Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 05:17:41 EST From: Epic8383 at aol.com Subject: Re: Sanke Fermenter Thanks Rich for pointing out a few problems with fermenting in an unconverted keg. Although I've never had a problem removing a spear (always triple check there is no pressure before removing any keg fitting), the idea of having to clean a clog is not very appealing. As far as removing all the yeast, I find I can do this with a cornie if I just grab the rim and give it a few sharp twists back and forth, letting it settle for a while then drawing off some sediment- I'm thinking it might work with a sanke. For bottling, I suggest force carbonating and hooking up to a CP bottler. This is assuming the yeast removal works! I've found that although there is sediment in a cornie, I get clear beer down to the last glass, so I think I might try this in the future. It certainly will fix the problem of fitting two 6 1/2 gallon carboys in the fridge- they won't fit in mine. I definitly won't go more than 12 gallons thanks to your advice, I hate losing any beer, watching it get lost in the blow off would seriously piss me off. Gus Rappold Massapequa, NY -73.42956 Lat. 40.68112 Lon. P.S. Congrats Marc on working out your motorization, sounds like something I'll wind up going through in the future! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 13:27:18 -0000 From: "Joel King" <joel_d_king at hotmail.com> Subject: Weizenbier -- stuck fermentation, or just newbie impatience?? Daniel, I'm of the opinion that most stuck fermentations are due to underpitching or underaeration. The yeast just wimps out and refuse to ferment the more difficult sugars. I wouldn't try aerating this late in the game. You might want to make up a large, well aerated starter, get it up to a full krausen, and pitch that. Best of luck, Joel Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 10:37:15 -0500 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: sarcasm / Belgian yeast attenuation Brian Lundeen <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> accuses me of "resorting to snarky sarcasm" when I recommend use of a dipstick. In your original post, Brian actually said the following: > ....Now if you want to reply with comments such as, > "Why would you do this, when it would be much simpler to...", > that's fine, I am quite open to alternate ideas.... Let me rephrase my post to avoid piercing your thin skin: Why would you want to do this, when it would be much simpler to use a dipstick with calibrated markings for volume? (for the record, I would interpret a statement like that as being arrogant and condescending) I think your proposed floating level indicator had a bit of a Rube Goldberg complexity to it and that's why I recommended the dipstick if you weren't going to use a sight glass. My trademarking the concept was a lame attempt at humor at the expense of a long time contributor to the digest. I'll admit my post could be perceived as sarcastic, although facetious would be a more appropriate description. Trust me - if it is my goal to insult someone, my words are not mistaken as sarcastic. If I am sarcastic, rest assured Brian, it is not only in response to you. - -------------- WhiteLabs Belgian Yeasts were the subject of much discussion at Spirit of Belgium since Chris White was there to talk about them. He gave out a handout that listed flocculation, attenuation, alcohol tolerance, and a table that listed flavor profiles at different temperatures. He said he'd probably get it up on the website. At any rate, the attenuation data listed was as follows: High (80-90%): Wit (400), Wit II (410), Ale (550) Medium-High: Trappist (500), Abbey (530) Medium (70-80%): Golden Ale (570) Low-Medium: Saison I (565) None were listed as Low, but is did say that warm temperatures were required to get medium attenuation out of the Saison. Of course, every strain listed above has the word "Belgian" first in its name, but I didn't want to type it that many times. Dave Harsh Bloatarian Brewing League Cincinnati, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 10:47:53 -0500 From: kbooth <kbooth at waverly.k12.mi.us> Subject: Grolsch > > Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 07:09:13 EST > From: Wimpy48124 at aol.com > Subject: Can grolsch bottles handle higher carbonation I use Grolsch bottles for my cider and a few years past I over carbonated a batch. I managed to place the bottles to condition on the dining room table, and SWMBO notices a spoting on the ceiling. I couldn't imagine a roof leak, but one day while nearby I noticed a Grolsch bottle with a stream of spray relieving itself on our ceiling. Periodicly it acted as a safety valve with more distance than a boy baby. So, you may not get the pressure you desire, particularly if the gaskets are a bit worn. Safety wise, no real problems as none detonated for me. YMMV cheers, jbooth Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 10:55:43 -0500 From: "Kurt Schweter" <KSchweter at smgfoodlb.com> Subject: Re: all grain questions you can only move so much wort through your chiller at one time ok?!, so the difference is time 25 feet is long enough wort goes through chiller--- you have time to clean Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 11:38:18 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Weizenbier -- stuck fermentation, or just newbie impatience?? Daniel Chisholm <dmc at nbnet.nb.ca> of Fredericton, NB Canada, has made his second batch, a slightly over diluted extract weizen that seems stuck. First, Daniel, let me congratulate you for including your full name and your location. (Now might be the time for my semi-annual request that everybody do this when posting). You've done a fine job of clearly stating the situation. Unfortunately, this is one of those problems that can be a stumper. I have a few ideas, though. First, you have probably underpitched by a bit. I don't know how much yeast is in a Cooper's packet, but 5-7 grams is typical. Two packets would have been much better. Did you follow the instructions for rehydration? Second, you probably didn't really aerate that much. People on HBD (AJ deLange, especially) have measured the dissolved oxygen in different cases and you just don't get that much by even vigorous stirring. Repeatedly pouring from one container to another is much more effective. Pitch the yeast first and you'll be giving them oxygen to use as you add more. Third, it's possible that CO2 bubbles are clinging to your hydrometer, making it more buoyant, giving a high reading. Make sure to thoroughly degas the sample. Try putting it in a blender for a few seconds and letting it settle. Some malt extracts are suspiciously low in nutrients due to the surreptitious use of sugars, and this can cause stuck fermentations when diluting the wort as you did, , but I think Briess is above this. It seems to be more of a problem with imported extract. So I don't think this is likely to be your problem, and yeast nutrient shouldn't help. I think you may just have to wait it out, then bottle. Good luck. Now about trying to duplicate that wonderful beer you had on vacation. You never will. Part of it was the ambience. The latest issue of "Malt Advocate" has an interview with Tom Peters and Ray Deter, owners of two great beer bars, Monk's Cafe in Philly and d.b.a. 41 1st Avenue in NYC. Deter tells the story of honeymooning with his English born wife, before he was a beer afficianado. They arrive at a country pub after a long bike ride on a hot English day, and he wants a cold, fizzy one, but he wife insists he order two Stones bitters, and they were wonderful! Everything changed for him regarding beer. He says now that "People come into our place and they'll say, 'You know, I had this beer in so-and-so, and it's great!' Oh, yeah, who were you with? 'Oh, I met this beautiful girl -." I can find the beer for you, but I can't find the girl, and you're not 22 anymore!" But you might do better. First, an important part of Bavarian Weizenbier flavor is the yeast, which is kind of a tamed wild yeast. Assuming your magical beer was this type, you need to get some authentic weizenbier yeast, and that means liquid yeast. But don't worry, it's not that hard. Get a Wyeast or WhiteLabs one, and make a starter! A big one. Another problem is that extracts get darkened in their processing, and when you boil a concentrated wort, as you did, they get further darkened. I think you might get a lighter wheat extract from William's Brewing http://www.williamsbrewing.com , but I'm not sure. I do know that their all 2-row is about the lightest all malt extract you can get. Hope this helps some, and good luck. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 10:00:15 -0800 From: Bill Riel <bill.riel at home.com> Subject: Re: Floor malted MO Brian Lundeen wrote: > On to the Marris Otter thing. I can't find my source for this, and I may be > wrong, but I believe a small Canadian maltster, Gambrinus, is still using > floor malting for producing a British style pale malt (made from Canadian > grown wheat, not Maris Otter) called ESB pale malt. I got the following from > the Brewer's Online Market Guide: > > ESB pale malt: This "Extra Special British" pale malt is malted for brewers > seeking the unique flavor imparted by well-modified British pale malt. > Gambrinus modified its malting process to produce this distinct malt > traditionally found only on the British Isles. <end quote> > > I have heard nothing but good reviews of this malt and is certainly one I > think worth trying by those lamenting the loss of the floor malted MO. Gambrinus is a small maltster located in Armstrong BC, and as I understand it, do use floor malting. Their pale malt is probably the best base malt I've ever used for making English ales - it's slightly darker than the more common Canada Malting Harrington 2-row, but it's superb for the kind of beers that I make. I think I prefer it to Munton's MO and Hugh Baird, but it could be that I'm getting much fresher samples of Gambrinus than those English malts. After all I do live reasonably close to the source. - -- Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 12:39:55 -0600 From: "Michael O. Hanson" <mhanson at winternet.com> Subject: Devil Mountain 5-Malt Ale Does anybody know of a recipe for a Devil Mountain 5-Malt Ale clone? All-grain, partial mash, or extract recipes are fine. Private e-mail is fine. Thanks in Advance, Mike Hanson Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 15:57:35 -0500 From: chris buck <cbuck at jhmi.edu> Subject: Re: headspace & carbonation I've been lured out of long-time lurking by the puzzle of slow carbonation of high-filled bottles. I have some possible experiments to address this mysterious phenomenon - and I did one 'spearmint already! First off, my observation from a mere year and a half of homebrewing has been that high-fill bottles (by this I mean less than half an inch of headspace) reliably take much longer to carbonate than bottles with an inch or more of headspace. It's not that the high-fills never attain adequate carbonation - just that it takes weeks and weeks (while inch-of-headspace bottles may be carbonated in just a matter of days). The phenomenon bothers me because it's exactly the opposite of what I'd expect. My assumption would have been that a fixed amount of priming sugar should be converted to a fixed amount of CO2. Since this fixed amount CO2 would be packed into a smaller headspace volume in a high fill bottle, you would assume that the higher pressure of CO2 in the headspace would, at equilibrium, result in more CO2 dissolved in the beer. Intuitively, it seems ulinkely that pressure-inhibition of the yeast is the culprit. If there were high CO2 pressure in the headspace, doesn't it stand to reason that, at equilibrium, there would be more CO2 dissolved in the beer? So my favorite of the theories people have put forth is that the yeast require some fresh oxygen in order to rapidly convert the priming sugar. After a large number of generations without oxygen in the fermenter, I'd think that the yeast that make it into the bottle would be depleted of the sterols and fatty acids needed for healthy cell walls. So they might have serious metabolic needs for O2. If you make the assumption that a milliliter or two of CO2 comes out of solution as the beer bottle is filled, it might be that virtually all of the O2 has been evacuated from high-fill bottles (maybe consistent with Louis Bonham's results (HBD#3541)?). So experiment #1, which I just did, was to add recently-aerated yeast at bottling time. I added 1/2 cup of high-krausen starter to my latest 5 gallon batch at bottling time. I filled a couple bottles leaving 1" of headspace and a couple with 1/4" of headspace. Actually, the entire starter-added batch was maybe a little more carbonated than I would have expected from the 4oz of corn sugar I used. I think the result is basically consistent with the idea that if the yeast in the bottle are not oxygen-starved, they can carbonate the bottle rapidly regardless of headspace. Experiment #2 (pending): fill two bottles each with 1/4", 1/2", and 1" of headspace. Cap one of the two bottles with a regular cap, and the other with an "Oxycap" oxygen absorbing cap (I get mine from <http://www.morebeer.com/>, no affiliation blah). If Oxycaps are not just snake oil, the decreased O2 in Oxycapped bottle should exacerbate the high-fill effect. Experiment #3 (I don't like this experiment as much as the first two): Examine the high-fill effect in a split batch primed either with DME or corn sugar. The extra break material from the boiled DME might substitute for O2, giving the yeast in the high-fill bottles an alternate source for fatty acid and sterol synthesis. Experiment #4: purge the bottles with CO2 before filling them. Low and high fill CO2-purged bottles should take equal amounts of time to carbonate since neither would have much O2 left inside the bottle. It looks like Stephen Alexander might have done this experiment already (HBD#3539) - and probably didn't support the O2 availability model - so I'm inclined to throw it out (hah hah). I'll report back a couple months from now when my lagers are ready for bottling. Oh, I have one parting shot on a totally unrelated topic. Does anybody else sanitize the spout on plastic buckets by first attaching vinyl tubing to the spout, then running a little 70% ethanol down the tube? The perfect no-rinse solution to sanitizing spouts as far as I'm concerned. Might add a little ethanol to the beer... which is not a bad thing. Last year I bought a liter bottle of grain alcohol to use for quick sanitation and for airlocks. Cost $12 and its only about halfway gone after more than a dozen batches. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 14:58:30 -0700 From: "Dave Howell" <djhowell at qwest.net> Subject: RE: Temperature Sensors In HBD #3457, Pete Calinski says: "I just ran across some interesting Temperature sensors from Dallas Semiconductor. The DS1820 http://www.dalsemi.com/datasheets/pdfs/1820.pdf is a three terminal device. Power, Ground and serial I/O. It transmits the 9 bit temperature back over the I/O line. Also, can be programmed to alarm for over and under temperature. Multiple devices can share the same data line. Power isn't needed because in some applications, the device can derive power from the data line. The DS1620 http://www.dalsemi.com/datasheets/pdfs/1620.pdf is an 8 pin device that is similar internally to the DS1820 but includes output pins for Over/Under and Com. I don't know prices, availability or how well they work. I think Dallas Semi also has an evaluation board." And I say: Yep, this is a neat device. You can get them from Newark Electronics http://www.newark.com (NAYY...) for around $2.00 US (Newark has a $5.00 handling fee for any order under $25 US). You can run these in Thermostat mode, and set a Thigh and Tlow hysterisis threshold, you get 0.5 deg C resolution (the DS1821 gives 1 deg C resolution), you get some scratchpad RAM (useful for assembling into strings for display), etc. Programming and communicating with it is not really simple (the DS1620 is easier, with 3-wire mode, meaning you need a Chip Enable line, a Serial Clock line, and a Serial Data line to communicate). Examples can be found on the Intenet for Atmel, Motorola, and Microchip microcontrollers (I haven't seen any examples for the STAMP, 8051 or 8086, but you can adapt from the other examples). A good place to look for PIC examples is here: http://www.phanderson.com/PIC/16C84/ds1820/. The 9-bit devices are actually 8-bit resolution with a sign bit (bit # 9) to help prevent you confusing the lower (0 to -50 deg C) from the upper (64 to 125 deg C) temperatures. You can increase the resolution of these devices by some double-secret commands (detailed in Dallas' App Notes for the devices) at the cost of much increased code complexity and the need for at least a fixed-point library in your microcontroller code. If you're using a PC to communicate to the device this should not be a problem. The DS1602 is slower, and has a larger case (unless you are adept at fine pitch surface-mount) that may be more problematic to mount in something for use as a temperature sensor. It was designed for laptop battery power management (I think). Pete, drop me a line, I'm working with the DS1821 this week in my microcontrolled-PID controller project. I'm almost finished learning how to talk to the DS1305 Realtime Clock, and about to start with the DS1821. With luck, by next week I'll be writing the PID algorithm (but my luck with peripherals has not been good so far, lots of slogging along). BTW, the part numbers with the K at the end are the evaluation kits (e.g. DS1821K), and are roughly $100 US each. Dave Howell Hating assembly language projects that I get involved in only because I like better beer, in Mesa, Arizona. "The time has come, the Walrus said, to speak of many things: Of shoes, of ships, of sealing wax, of cabbages and kings, and why the sea is boiling hot and whether pigs have wings." --- Charles Dodgson (aka Lewis Carroll) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 18:15:24 -0500 From: "Mike Capitain" <mcapitain at diskonnected.com> Subject: home vs. micro vs. commercial breweries??? i am asking for the help of all those with experience and insights into the realms of home-, micro-, and commercial brewing. where is the line drawn between the three? what makes a homebrewery a homebrewery and not jst a microbrewery in someone's backyard? furthermore, if a microbrewery sells it brew, what makes that different than a purely commercial brewery? i gather that the biggest differences are in size, but where are the boundaries? -fellow homebrewer, -mike capitain Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 23:47:44 -0000 From: "Bret Mayden" <brmayden at hotmail.com> Subject: Vacuum insulated Aero-Cans Earl, Where did you pick these up? Military surplus? Sounds like something I'd like to tinker with. Bret Mayden brmayden at hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 21:16:38 +1030 From: "Peter Fitzsimons" <peterf at senet.com.au> Subject: Temperature Sensors Pete Calinski asks about the Dallas 1820 sensors I have built a fridge temperature controller so that I can control fermentation temperature based on this chip and a PIC controller. If you are interested I can provide the details off line from the digest. After doing this, I'm not sure if it was worth the effort considering how long it took and the price of ready made controllers. Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 09:54:02 -0500 (EST) From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: question re high final gravity... I recently brewed a stout. It tastes great, so this is not a complaint in search of a cure. But, the final gravity really confuses me, so if any more experienced brewers can render suggestions or ideas that would eliminate my confusion,.or at least aid in that process, then I would greatly appreciate it. Here is the data: 9lb 2 row Maris Otter Malt (Thomas Fawcett, North Country Malt Supply) 1lb Chocolate Malt .25lb Roasted Barley (in the sparge) .5 lb Amber Malt 2lb Wheat Malt 4.5 gallons of water into lauter-tun.strike temperature was about 170 F stabilized at 155 F for 60 minutes tested with iodine.failed the test, reheated to 158 F ,..rest for 30 minutes. I collected about 7 gallons of 1.060 (about) wort. First runnings were 1.082 OG was 1.072 FG after 11 days (no secondary) was 1.040 ? THIS IS WHAT CONFUSES ME I used slurry (about half of a half gallon growler) that had been used 2X before,.I was thinking that this might approximate an Imperial Stout, ..but it did not. It tastes very good, sweet, .not cloyingly so.but I am confused as to the high final gravity. I kept the temp of the fermenter at real close to what it called for , so I don't think that the yeast crapped out. If I had used a secondary perhaps the gravity would have come down.?? Any ideas as to the reason for the hight-than-expected final gravity ? ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 08:33:52 -0800 From: Jim Wilson <jim.wilson at home.net> Subject: Center of the Brewing Universe and CACA update Thanks to all for completing the puzzle. 0,0 Rennerian is: N 42^17'46.9" W 83^49'34.5" You can find where you are from http://www.mapsonus.com/ Click Draw New Map Put in your address When the map comes up, the Lat and Long. are not visible. Click the Half screen up arrow then the half screen down arrow. The fine print is the Long and Lat. Which may require a short side trip to http://www.directionsmag.com/latlong.asp to get the units to talk to one another. My first batch of CACA is bubbling along. After 2 weeks at 60 deg yeast cultured from a bottle of SNPA has pulled the gravity from 1.052 down to 1.018. And *Jeff Renner*, my homebrew store confirmed that the granular looking corn was indeed flaked maize, so I'm resting easier. Now that I know the fine details of where I am, I'm just happy to be in the same Universe and I'll leave it at that. Reporting from Redondo Beach, CA where the wind chill is about 72 deg and I'm off to practise my other hobby. o \o __o /\ / `\ <> `\ `> `\ > (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) I ride my bicycle to ride my bicycle. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 10:29:48 +1100 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Balancing in Burradoo Just thought that I should report that I spent the weekend in Burradoo, and like Ray Kruse before me, I have survived intact. Arrived at the Burradooo railway station a bit earlier that scheduled due to something that the train driver announced as the Coriolis effect. Milling around the platform, waiting for the Burradoo bus to arrive, I couldn't help but notice some graffiti down low on the wall. The writing was a little faint, but I could have sworn that it said 'Jeff Renner was here'. I was about to start walking towards the Hilton when I heard the distinctive thump of a classic Norton approaching. As it came around the corner I could see that the Baron was the Commander of the vintage rig. Thankfully it was in the middle of the day so Phil was fully clothed. Apparently his eccentricity was at a low ebb as he had just had his medication adjusted by a visiting Doctor. Something to do with New Zealand hops. I was intent on booking into the Hilton for the night, but the Baron wouldn't hear of it, insisting that he had a spare tent in the back yard which had been recently vacated by the turtles. So, mounting the rear of the bike, Phil did a grand job of keeping it upright as we burbled back to the Estate, with me trying to hang on while balancing an empty keg on my head (after all you never know what samples may be available). Now, speaking of balance, I would like to comment on the effect that the yeast strain has had on the infamous Czech Pilsener. While I will leave it to those more closely involved with its production to give a more detailed review, it appears that what wort was left after the extended 3 hour boil was separated into two fermenters. One was pitched with an Ayinger starter, and the other with a few packets of Saflager dry yeast. Now it really was striking the effect that the different yeast has had on the flavour profile. Both samples were a little yeasty to the taste due to the short lagering period, but the overall impression of the Ayinger was a lovely malty sweetness. In contrast the Saflager was predominantly hoppy, with some other estery notes. It was really quite amazing how the perceived bitterness of the beer was markedly affected by the yeast. David Now back home in Newcastle - Still with an empty keg. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 20:56:33 -0500 From: "Joye & Kevin Sinn" <skinnrz at sympatico.ca> Subject: Hop "scum"; Wort clearing Good evening fellow brewers! (Good morning to those of you Down Under), I have a couple of questions that are lingering in my late Sunday nite head. Brewed my second all-grain batch today, and I had a problem with the sparge. I can't seem to get my wort to clear when I recirculate. I had this problem with my first batch as well, so it's either the method or the materials (and I'm betting on the method!) I use a 5 gallon Gott cooler with a copper tubing manifold setup. I recirculated about 12 or 13 litres - the wort did get clearer, but did never become bright. Pics of the manifold can be seen at www3.sympatico.ca/skinnrz if the need arises. The grain was milled at home with a Valley Mill. I don't think that the ESB's I was drinking were clouding my eyes, but that also could be a possibilty. ;-) The second question is with regards to "hop scum" (technical term). After the boil was complete, I found a large amount of hop residue clinging to the side of my kettle (I used pellets). Should I be watching more carefully as the boil progresses, and stir this stuff back into the wort? It seems to me that I might not be getting all that I can out of my hops if bits and pieces of them are not in the wort. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for your help. Kevin Sinn Essex, Ontario Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 19:29:25 -0800 From: Jack Corbett <jcorbett at oz.net> Subject: foamy carboy head I am fairly new to homebrewing, and I'm having a challenging time with too much head foam after pouring in my 2 gal wort on top of 2 gal chilled water in 5 gal carboy...I get a good mixed temp of about 70 F. (I've chilled the covered wort pot in cold water in the sink), but I get so much foam on the top, that I have a hard time topping off the carboy with additional water...tried adding less chilled water...but still very foamy...any suggestions will be appreciated. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2001 22:34:42 -0600 From: "mike o,neill" <mikeo2624 at uswest.net> Subject: caffrey irish ale hello every one this is my annual post. I would post more often but I type that slow You see I went to a very poor school and all the could afford was a bloody australian typing teacher. Any way I am not normally a fan of irish ale that killian stuff from colorado broke me of that habit, but my wife said either take her out to eat or she was going to cook so we went to the braisen head "irish pub" and they had caffrey's irish ale and it was very good they even had it on nitro that suprised me.But the reason I posted was does any one have a recipe for it. Private posts ok and thank you in advance Mike O'Neill, Omaha Ne. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 22:47:03 EST From: RBoland at aol.com Subject: Too much of a good thing? I've had three failures recently while stepping up yeast, a procedure I have performed successfully for years. My procedure was identical to usual, with one exception. I added a pinch of yeast nutrient to these starters. My wife the chef tells me that a pinch is about 1/16 of a teaspoon. Recommended usage rate is 1/8-1/4 teaspoon per gallon (1/64 - 1/32 teaspoon per pint). I probably added twice the recommended maximum nutrient volume. Total concentration was about 250 ppm. The nutrient, Fermaid K, contains diammonium phosphate, vitamin B1, magnesium sulfate, yeast hulls (can you imagine shucking those babies?), folic acid niacin, and calcium pantothenate. Has anyone had a similar experience? Will the nutrient inhibit yeast activity at these concentrations? Thanks for the help. Bob Boland Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 22:56:43 -0500 From: "Kevin Winn" <krewbrew at mindspring.com> Subject: Best of Brooklyn IV The Malted Barley Appreciation Society is hosting its fourth annual homebrew competition, Best of Brooklyn IV, on February 24, 2001 at the Brooklyn Brewery. This AHA sanctioned event will continue the tradition of providing quality judging and rewarding brewers with a prize for first, second, and third place in each category. There will again be a First Time Contestant's Best of Show. Entries are due by February 16. Visit the competition website at http://hbd.org/mbas/bob2001.html or contact Kevin Winn at krewbrew at mindspring.com for more information. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 23:39:42 EST From: Brunnenbraeu at aol.com Subject: Re: Weizenbier -- stuck fermentation, or just newbie impatience?? In einer eMail vom 03.02.01 07:13:02 (MEZ) Mitteleuropaeische Zeit schreibt Daniel Chisholm <dmc at nbnet.nb.ca>: > I think I might be having problems with a batch of Weizenbier. Dunno if > it's a stuck fermentation, or a characteristic specific to wheat beers > that I simply don't know about. Hi, Dan, I think, your text was one of the longest non-scientific texts in HBD since a couple of years... :-) So give me a chance to answer in a somewhat shorter manner: > So what's wrong? Nothing. > Should I just wait a couple or three weeks and measure > then? Definitely yes. Check the temperature - it should be at about 20deg C. > (My concern is that I don't want the wort to go bad, if in fact > there are fermentable sugars there that my yeast aren't doing anything > with). If you worked properly and cleaned your equipment, nothing serious will happen. > Should I pitch some more or a different yeast? (a lager one > perhaps?) No. I've never seen yeast dying during transfer to second fermentation. And your yeast has been very active in first fermentation, so it was healthy enough. Just give the yeast cells a chance to multiply and to work at your wort again. That isn't a matter of two or three days, but of two or three weeks! Good luck, and hope it helps. (And, by the way, 1016 isn't that far away from 1012 that you should really worry...) Cheers / Zum Wohl / Na zdrowie, Volker Volker R. Quante Brunnenbraeu Homebrewery Brewing and working in Warsaw / Poland, but definitely a German Homebrewer Return to table of contents
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