HOMEBREW Digest #3606 Fri 13 April 2001

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  The Devil We Know (craftbrewer)
  Balto breweries (Ray Kruse)
  Starter grenades ("Greenly, Jeff")
  Boston Trip (Rick Pauly)
  astringency, bungs, and oxidation (Marc Sedam)
  acid washing procedure, darrells big vienna, keg lube remover ("Czerpak, Pete")
  Re: CO2 cylinders (Joel Plutchak)
  Secondary for ale (John Clark)
  re:oh sure...I've never had any problems (Jim Adwell)
  Cleaning and Sanitizing (" Jim Bermingham")
  RE:Gump Report/Johnson -Piling On ("Donald D. Lake")
  re. Acid Washing Yeast (Clifton Moore)
  Mini Kegs ("Tom Williams")
  RE: Drying Carboys ("McGregor, Arthur, Mr, OSD-ATL")
  IMHO: Tannin Extraction from Steeping (John Palmer)
  Stuff (happydog)
  Australia, Australia, Australia, we luv ya! G'day (Bret Morrow)
  Best of Philly Competition XVIII (Karl Smith)
  Fermentation stalled (Newby Frederickson)
  Thermocouple wire (Todd Etzel)
  if you like brown ales... (darrell.leavitt)
  poor attenuation all the time ("Rick Hamel")
  Astringency and pH (Pat Babcock)

* * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:26:09 +1000 From: craftbrewer at telstra.easymail.com.au Subject: The Devil We Know G'Day All / Glen thinks he can get me out of my hole with this comment Then there are those who do nothing and those who go to great measure to reduce the risk of HSA: floating plastic balls on the surface, CO2 blankets, enlisting the help of the devil... ok... only Graham does this. [that should lure him out of his hole]<<<< / / Not a chance mate. Very confortable living down here. And speaking of holes, the real reason I haven't surfaced is Phil Yates himself He writes>>>> I must tell you that Aussies are not inclined to go quiet just because a mate inserts his finger up your rectum! Quite the opposite in fact. This sort of practise was prolific at the Burradoo Hilton before I arrived here and appointed myself as Baron. John Hopoate by the way was a regular patron. / I'm not sure where they have all got to. But when I find them their rectums will be a lot sorer than would have resulted from a game of footy with John Hopoate!!<<<<< / / Now Dear John actually practiced his "back yard" doctoring here in North Queensland. I was quick to put an end to it, so out came the baseball bat. It was when he smiled I realised a cricket bat was in order. Well he was ear to ear. That disappeared when I wrapped it in barbed wire. But I now live in fear in the deep North. These southerners and in particular those in the Southern Highlands have exploratory fingers. Keep your habits at the hilton will you. And whats worse I have seen Phils hands. Oh they are small and whimpy, If only he would cut his nails. / / Now as usual something silly has come up again, HSA during the boil. Like all things in CRAFTBREWING this is a yes no answer. Now there is ample evidence that it does occur. To a few of us serious brewers we will try to minumise its effect, with the design of our Boiler (see the oz website for mine). And yes I have tasted it in some of my 'long term' stored beers. / BUT - the effect is suttle and not noticeable to most craftbrewers. The reason is complex, but it boils down to, many brewers cant pick up the taste because they hop/malt agressively, they drink their beers too soon for the flavour to develop, They dont know what the taste is anyway. / So my advise to 90% of you is do what Charlie says, don't worry. Unfortunately I'm in that 10 % class. / Shout Graham Sanders / Oh I often wondered why southern football players smear vasoline over themselves. They tell me to make them more slippery to tackle. I think they got it half right. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 04:36:49 -0400 From: Ray Kruse <rkruse at bigfoot.com> Subject: Balto breweries Mark, When will you be here? The Cross Street Irregulars is having a local pub crawl on 28 April. Near the Yard, huh? Wharf Rat is definitely there. Also, Capitol City Brewing at the Inner Harbor (it's been two years since I was there, as there beer sucked and I swore off) Also, Baltimore Brewing Co near the Flag House is nearby. And don't forget Sisson's at Cross Street Market, where our club meets. All are within easy crawling distance from Camden Yard. If you have a car, Fordham Brewery (Ram's Head Tavern) in Annapolis is easy to get to, with great beer and good food. And DuClaws in Bel Air has a good selection of great beer. And on the way to DuClaws, stop at White Marsh Mall and visit Red Brick Station on The Avenue. Let me know when you'll be in the area. We can get together for a brew. Ray Kruse Traveler to Michigan Glen Burnie, PRMd rkruse at bigfoot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 05:09:51 -0400 From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> Subject: Starter grenades Fellow brewers, I recently had several pint jars of "sterilized" wort that I intended to use for starters blow up in the refrigerator. Not just burst lids; in three cases, the jars actually shattered. Needless to say, the inside of the little dorm fridge I am using is sticky and wrecked. I made a basic 1 gallon wort with a small amount of hop pellets and light DME to 1.060, placed it in new, sanitized Ball brand jars fresh from the grocery, put rings and lids on, and then placed them in SWMBO's canning cooker for 45 minutes at full boil. The lids popped, so I know there was a good seal. After, they were allowed to cool to room temp, and then they were placed into the fridge for future use. Almost every one of them burst in some way, most with burst seals and bent lids. All I can think of is some sort of infection, but wouldn't the canning boil have killed everything? Puzzled and worried, Jeff greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 08:46:54 -0400 From: Rick Pauly <flp2m at virginia.edu> Subject: Boston Trip My wife and I are planning a trip to Boston in June. We, of course, want to hit the best brew pubs and beer bars. Any and all recommendations would be appreciated. Also any other spots of interest that you care to mention would be appreciated too as well as palces to stay. Thanks Rick Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 09:28:55 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: astringency, bungs, and oxidation Or is that oxidized astringent bungs...whatever. Great. The HBD server goes down and Pat takes his grumpy ol' self on my message. I still say the pH drops with dark malts, and I still say that the complexation of tannins will round out flavors over time. To me, astringency might be one thing to make a hefe taste drinkable. Ugh. One beer style I just can't drink anymore. Although the Maisel's Weiss and Schneider Weiss in Munich were fine. Steve A's message does certainly make things a bit clearer. Steve, can I send that part about always being right to my wife. She still needs proof. Jeff R. also brings up a wacky theory about dark malts preventing oxidation. It's not so wacky, really. I do recall reading somewhere (likely an old Brewing Techniques or Noonan's book) that an ounce of black malt helps prevent oxidation. Could be a momily, but it's also been part of my brewing practices ever since. Even used it in my CAPs and Helleses (Helli??). You don't see or taste any part of the black malt, but I can say that most of my beers are pretty stable once kegged. And I do know that I'm sensitive to oxidation flavors. OTOH, I also boil most of my beers with the kettle mostly covered to reduce oxidation too. Forgot to do it on this last helles and noticed a darker wort. Score one for the bionic Burley. All this talk of rusty bungs and rugby makes me wonder if I'm in Oz. - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 09:41:22 -0400 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: acid washing procedure, darrells big vienna, keg lube remover To Ant H. in south africa: Yeast do not need to be washed at such a low temp. Room temperature is recommended. The low temperature given would however be a decent long term storage temperature for slurry. They also do not need to be water washed first although it may help remove some excess trub. BOth of the above came from the notes on acid washing for commercial breweries on the White Labs Yeast website. It sounds like you are doing things perfectly okay to me. To Darrell: Comment on your hopping schedule to us in terms of your brew being too sweet/malty please. Also, how did the slurry do in its previous pitch that you harvested from? When you took your gravity going to secondary, was the beer warmed to about room temp or did you correct for temp with your hydrometer. Its possible that a 50F hydrometer reading would be reading higher by maybe 0.002-0.004, making your brew more what you would think at 1.016ish for room temp. I would also second the "use unscented dishwasher powder soap and water" to remove keg lube. If it removes all the grease and crap off my dishes, it should work fine. Dilute lemon juice or vodka may work as solvent as well. I use citrus based cleaners to decrease bike and auto parts. Pete czerpak albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 08:56:55 -0500 (CDT) From: Joel Plutchak <plutchak at ncsa.uiuc.edu> Subject: Re: CO2 cylinders Jeff Rennerian, Center of the Homebrew Universe, wrote: >Jason Gorman wrote: >>I have an old CO2 cylinder that failed the hydro test. >I don't know about refurbishing, but I doubt it. However, I have >seen (and heard) some beautiful Japanese style bells made from old >cylinders. Y'know, when I read Jason's article something rang a mental bell (sorry) but it didn't quite come into focus. You've hit the nail on the head, so for anyone interested in making things that make music, let me heartily recommend the book "Sound Designs: A Handbook of Musical Instrument Building" by Reinhold Banek and Jon Scoville. It includes descriptions of many folk-style instruments that can be made from "garbage" and easily-available materials, including the temple bell Jeff describes. Coincidentally, I just finished assembling a slit drum described in the book, and will varnish it this weekend. It's just the thing to bang on while waiting for the wort to come to a boil-- as a mallet I use a wooden spoon with a #6-1/2 stopper on the - -- Joel Plutchak Banging a gong in East-Central Illinois (and brewing an all-Fuggle Bitter even as you read this) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 07:15:02 -0700 (PDT) From: John Clark <a.jclark at rocketmail.com> Subject: Secondary for ale I do not know why but I have been using a secondary on all of my ales. I started doing this last year and it has worked out well for me. I get less yeast in my bottles but the same good carbonation. I think the ale taste just as good if not better than bottling from the primary. It takes an extra few days but I have noticed nothing but good things with my final product. Can anyone give me a good reason why I should do this? I am talking regular ales. Some with honey some with fruit concentrate some are just light ales. Are there any good advantages or am I just wasting my time? Thanks a.jclark at rocketmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 11:29:37 -0400 From: Jim Adwell <jim at jimala.com> Subject: re:oh sure...I've never had any problems >Competitions are a good independant test, but anyone who's >submitted the exact same beer to two competitions at the same >time knows that you can get low 40's or low 20's depending on the >subjectiveness of the judges. Not only are beer judges subjective about taste, but so are you and your friends and the consumers-of-your-homebrew. A few cases in point: Years ago when I brewed in Hawaii, most of my brews had a faint undertaste of, well, the sewer; not so bad that I wouldn't drink it, but definitely there. No one else who drank my beer noticed it, even when I mentioned it to them. Were they just being polite, and drinking bottle after bottle ( as much as I was willing to part with) of free beer? Was it an infection? Was it just my imagination? I don't know. Last year I experimented with beer made entirely from grain other than barley. One beer, a 50% rye malt/50% unmalted oat ale tasted (to me) like sweet fruity Budweiser and was essentially undrinkable, by me, at least. Most of my usual taste-testers agreed, but one fellow really loved the stuff, so I gave him the whole batch. As an experiment I kept a few bottles of beer in plastic PET bottles for 2 years to get an idea how the gas permiability of PET would affect the beer. After two years the beer had oxidized to an interesting nutty-sherry taste ( and I don't taste any 'cardboard' flavor ); it's not beer any more, but I kinda like it. My taste-testers to a man/woman hate the taste of it. Are my taste buds that out of sync with others? Am I just fooling myself? I suppose my point is that even if you are making infected beer ( and we all are, to some degree ) if you like it, and those whose opinions you care about like it, that's all that matters. If Steve Alexander and Dave Burley can taste the difference in their beer between boiling partially covered vs. completely open boiling 6 months or so later, then it's important to them to minimise HSA; I can't, and it's not important to me. On the other hand, if you aren't satisfied with the results of your brewing, you owe it to your taste buds to examine every aspect of your brewing technique for ways to improve your results, not just sanitation. Cheers, Jim in Central New York Jim's Brewery Pages: http://brewery.jimala.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 11:10:15 -0500 From: " Jim Bermingham" <bermingham at antennaproducts.com> Subject: Cleaning and Sanitizing Lately there have been discussions on sanitizing but little on cleaning until Marc Sedam's post dated 11 April. Dr. George Fix gave a presentation on fermenters at the Bluebonnet 2001 in March of this year. A part of that presentation concerned cleaning and sanitizing. Dr. Fix conducted some experiments on cleaning and sanitizing. The results of those experiments are outlined on Laurie and George's homebrewing web site: http://hometown.aol.com/brwyfoam/Homebrewing-with-Fix.html Follow the Bluebonnet 2001 link. Some of you may be surprised at the results. Jim Bermingham Millsap, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 12:24:46 -0400 From: "Donald D. Lake" <dlake at gdi.net> Subject: RE:Gump Report/Johnson -Piling On Mr. Johnson's recent criticism of the AHA was unwarranted and his defensive reply makes him a valid target for "piling on." Sure, the AHA has had it's moments of deserved criticism in the past. But to criticize them for not offering their toll-free phone # in an email post is just plain silly. The irony that makes this an entertaining story was exposed by Rob when he pointed out that Mr. Johnson himself did not offer a toll-free phone# for his own business that he "accidently" pimped in his post Although Mr. Moline's response a seemed a bit strong. People who put their hearts into something tend to get a little touchy when they feel attached by cynical types who only seem to criticize and are not part of the solution. Don Lake Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 09:00:47 -0800 From: Clifton Moore <cmoore at gi.alaska.edu> Subject: re. Acid Washing Yeast Ant, For years I have heard mention of acid washing, and picked up a few bits of info on what the intention was, but I have never read any detailed procedures. Your willingness to state target pH of 2, and time of soak, along with your friends advised 4 deg target is more specific data than is often offered. It makes sense to acid wash just prior to pitching, as I understand the intention is to knock down any bacteria, and this would best be done just before use to reduce revitalization. I have always used sterile water wash, and pitch the slurry. So just how do you make the pH 2.0? Clif Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 13:08:03 -0400 From: "Tom Williams" <williams2353 at hotmail.com> Subject: Mini Kegs Steve wrote about his mini keg experiences: " 2) I had some leakage around the tap/keg joint when the tap was inserted wet." I have this type of leakage nearly every time, and I find that it limits the life of the CO2 cartridges. If there were some way to stop this leakage, the kegs could be kept cold and carbonated in the fridge for several days. Anybody have a solution? " 3) Getting the carbonation levels right is tough - The first 5 gallons was primed with 4 oz corn sugar, the second with 5 oz. SWMBO was unhappy both times. I'll try 6 oz next month. " How do these priming rates compare to the rates you use when bottling? I have tried putting corn sugar directly in each keg, but I have never been satisfied with my carbonation results. (I read somewhere that they should be primed less than bottles). " 4) Drying the kegs out is no fun - I ended up using rolled up papertowels and shaking. the bung lip keeps a good deal of water in the keg that will not drain out. " I have exactly the same experience. I have given up trying to dry them. I just make sure they are sanitized and rinsed well, and I cover the openings when stored empty. I don't think a little rinse water left in the bottom matters. I have some kegs which were bought from a homebrew store specifically for this purpose, and some which I bought with beer in them (Grolsh, Warsteiner). Both perform equally well. Also, I have a different brand tap - mine is a Fass Frisch. How well does the Philtap regulate the CO2? Cheers, Tom Williams Dunwoody, Georgia Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 13:31:37 -0400 From: "McGregor, Arthur, Mr, OSD-ATL" <Arthur.Mcgregor at osd.mil> Subject: RE: Drying Carboys Hi All! I clean my carboys with soap and water, then soak overnight in bleach/water solution (1-3 Tablespoon/carboy). Next day rinse with hot water, drain, set carboy down and wait a few minutes pour out the residual water, and then put an unused, new from the box, coffee filter on top of the carboy and secure tightly with a rubber band. The coffee filter lets the remaining water evaporate and also keeps out bugs, dirt, etc. I've made over 164 batches since early '93, and never had a problem from this method. Hoppy Brewing, Art McGregor Northern Virginia, USA (arthur.mcgregor at osd.mil) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 10:31:27 -0700 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: IMHO: Tannin Extraction from Steeping Hi Group, I think Jeff hit the nail on the head. I have a keen interest in steeping technique, as I am trying to be as technically correct as possible in my book, and my findings are that steeping too hot or boiling leads to more astringent wort. The primary reason that you get tannin extraction from too-hot-steeping versus not with decoction (IMO) is the degree of roasting of the malts typically used for each process, and the thickness of the solution which contributes to the stability of the pH. In decoction, with its very low water/grain ratio, the pH is highly buffered even during boiling, and the grainbill consists of lager and or munich malts and not the crystal, chocolate, and black patent used when making dark ales. In the case of Black Beer (Schwarzbier), I believe it is decoction mashed, but the roast malts only make up about 20% of the grist, so the stability of the polyphenol bonds is probably better for the same aforementioned reasons. As another data point, some years ago, I was brewing a pale ale and missed my conversion temperature with the infusion. I was already at 2.5 quarts per lb and didnt want to add any more water. So, I thought I would just boil some of the water above the mash and pour it back in. My decoctions (2 at 2 quarts each) were mostly water but with some grain and husk material floating in it. Well, that beer definitely had an astringent note to it. Not horrid, not even particularly noticeable to non-brewers, but I could taste it. My 2 cents, John - -- John Palmer jjpalmer at realbeer.com Palmer House Brewery and Smithy http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer How To Brew - the online book http://www.howtobrew.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 18:05:49 GMT From: happydog at nations.net Subject: Stuff 1) The AHA flap (again). A wise old man once told me " You ain't going to change the course of a ship by standing on the shore and yelling at it, you have to get on board and help steer." Take that as you will. I have never been a member, but if I wanted to really be heard, I would join up and help steer. Nuff said. 2) I have and use a counter flow wort chillers on my HERIMS (garden hose and Phil's phittings) The first time I used it I could have kicked myself for not getting one sooner. One of the best things I ever added to my system besides the pump! I clean mine during the boil. I recirculate one gallon of warm One step threw it, 5 mins at a time on and off for 90 mins. When the pumps not running the one step stays in the chiller and the pump, I don't know how many times I do it during the 90 mins, I just do it. I then connect the tubing to the kettle when its time to chill and turn on the pump to pump out the one step, stop when its all wort and then pump into my 2 or 3 buckets near by. After pumping the wort I again recirculate warm one step on and off during clean up and put both the pump and chiller away as dry as I can get them. I'm making the best beer I ever made. Its cheap, It works and I trust it!!! (and if you don't believe me stop by and have a beer ;-) 3) Did anyone do the Bean-O thing from one of the past Brew your own mags? If so how was it? 4) I have a small group of people here in South Carolina that would like to start to change the 6% law we have here. I see that folks are doing the same thing or close to the same thing in Ga. and Fla. I would really like some pointers of ANYthing you guys have learned such as do's and don't or even the best place to start when working with the Butthea... err,, umm... I mean state government people. I am no longer content with standing on the shore and yelling. Wil Kolb Happy Dog Brewing Supplies 401 W.Coleman Blvd Mt Pleasant SC 29464 843-971-0805 Fax 843-971-3084 1-800-528-9391 happydog at nations.net www.maltydog.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 14:18:56 -0400 From: Bret Morrow <bret.morrow at yale.edu> Subject: Australia, Australia, Australia, we luv ya! G'day Greetings I have a quote from the New Haven Advocate (4/12/01) "In February, Australian ex-soldier Frederick Somerfield, 79, won his appeal and will now receive a military disability pension, based on heart trouble that he said was caused by having drunk too much beer while stationed at remote locations during World War II. In fact, he said, some of the locations were so remote that the only alcoholic beverages available were very cheap brews, which were especially bad on his heart." I don't think I could add anything to that other than he must not have been posted to UK where the beers are wonderful--Maybe he was in St. Louis, MO? More of this stuff is available online at http://www.newsoftheweird.com Cheers, Bret Morrow Hamden, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 14:45:51 -0500 From: Karl Smith <krs at pond.com> Subject: Best of Philly Competition XVIII Homebrewers of Philadelphia and Suburbs (HOPS) Presents Best of Philly Homebrew Competition XVIII (18th in a Series) Saturday, April 21, 2001 9:30 am Hosted by: The Restaurant School Drexel University Academic Building, top floor 102 N 33rd St. (NE corner of 33rd & Arch Sts) Philadelphia, PA UPDATE!!!!! BEST OF SHOW will win the additional prize of having their winning entry brewed at MANAYUNK BREWING in Philadelphia !!!!!!!!!!! UPDATE!!!!! Entry deadline extended to Wednesday, April 18th at the HomeSweet Homebrew location only (mail in and drop offs)!!!! The special culinary awards banquet is open to the public. If you have any questions or would like to judge or steward call the Competition Coordinator (Joe) at 215-885-3897 or e-mail at birman at netaxs.com * Forms and Info at http://www.netaxs.com/~shady/hops/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 12:03:58 -0700 From: Newby Frederickson <newbywan at earthlink.net> Subject: Fermentation stalled I am new to homebrew ing and just put a 5 gal batch in to the primary fermenter 2 days ago and the fermentation activity stalled on the morning after yeast was pitched. I am interested in information about why fermentation would stall and what can be done to 'jump start' or revive it. Some pertanent info: I made a wert chiller and it worked VERY well, the yeast was pitched at 68-70F. I only used 1 packet of EDME yeast. It was cold the first night and the strip thermometer on the fermenter reads 65F. My theories and actions: 1) It got too cold and the yeast has gone dormant or died a) Wrapped fermenter in a blanket (furniture pad actually) b) Turned on propane burning heater (placed 6-8 feet away) 2) There is insufficient yeast to do the job completely a) Have another packet of EDME yeast on-hand The heat seems to reviving the fermentation but I don't want to shock the monkey with radical temp changes. I will continue to bring the temp up slowly and do what i can to keep the frosty night air away. Can you provide some recommendations or enlightenment from experience, relavent articles or books? Thank you, Newby Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 12:26:41 -0700 From: Todd Etzel <tetzel at ligo.caltech.edu> Subject: Thermocouple wire Mike Pensinger asked about what type of wire to use for thermocouples. It is important to use thermocouple wire all the way to your controller. Using normal copper wire would create another thermocouple where the two dissimilar metals meet. You would end up with three thermocouples in series, each having a different characteristic. Todd Etzel LIGO Project, CalTech Control and Data Systems Group 626-395-2075 tetzel at ligo.caltech.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 18:07:25 -0400 (EDT) From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: if you like brown ales... If you like brown ales...and have not tried using Caraffa malt, ....just 1/4 pound of caraffa III in a malt bill that contained 9lb lager malt 2 lb wheat 1/2 lb crystal renders a very interesting....hard to describe...but very nice flavor to a brown ale. Bavarian yeast was, I suppose, part of it... ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 18:50:44 -0400 From: "Rick Hamel" <hamelrick at hotmail.com> Subject: poor attenuation all the time Hi everyone, I'm wondering if anyone can help me figure out a problem I am having. I am only getting 69-71 % attenuation on all my batches. I ferment at 68 degrees. Fermentation kicks off fast and goes steady. Maybe I am racking to early. After 10 days the Krausen still hadn't fallen (Wyeast 1056). I racked to secondary (o.g. 1.055 s.g. 1.016) after another 10 days at 68 degrees I kegged (s.g. 1.014). I rack using co2 to push the beer from carboy to keg or another carboy. Here are some things I think may be causing my poor attenuation. 1) Doing step mashes in a kettle with polar ware false bottom. The bottom gets too hot and kills enzymes. There is a little over a gallon of wort under the false bottom that can't be stirred. 2) Could also just be inconsistent mash temp by heating the mash under the kettle 3) I initially infuse with 1.33 gal for a protein rest at 122. I think this might be too thin. 4) I may be racking too early. Not enough yeast to finish the job. 5) during racking co2 transfer method may overly carbonate the beer so yeast becomes inactive. I don't think the problem is caused by specialty malts because I also did a wheat beer 60% wheat 40% 2-row NA pale o.g. 1.049 f.g. 1.014. I used a single decoction for this one. Some more details about my brew process -I oxygenate with pure oxygen -I've done a protein rest on all these brews do try to reduce chill haze -My sacrification temp is 153 degrees Please let me know what you think. Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 19:30:39 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Astringency and pH Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager.... I think John Palmer is saying the same thing I've been trying trying to articulate: decoctions are not astringent because of the grains' ability to maintian the pH of the decoct. It follows that there is not enough grain to buffer the pH in a typical steep. Similarly, when one acidifies the sparge water, the pH of the spargate is controlled as well, preventing the pH from increasing towards that of water. Note that I did state it is a function of BOTH temperature and pH in my original post. As should have been apparent from my last post on the subject, I am highly skeptical that decocted beers aren't astringent due to reduction during lagering. One reason is that I test for end of sparge using my taste buds. My indicators being a loss of the perception of sugars, and the "tea" character of the spargate, indicating astringency. If the decoctions increased the astringency of the beer as a matter of course, I should detect this in testing for end of sparge, shouldn't I? I also brew a lot of hefeweizens by this manner, and am typically serving and enjoying them after a fairly brief (2 weeks) conditioning at cellar temperatures. As opposed to those who don't like hefeweizens, I do have a fairly firm grasp of the style and its flavor constituents. Astringency isn't one of them; however, many phenols and esters which WOULD be complexed out in lagering are. But this "argument", is, of course, not getting us anywhere. I propose an experiment. Take a couple gallons of water, steep a typical specialty grain bill in it, bringing it to a boil. In a similar pot, dose the water with lactic acid until it has a pH of 5.4. Perform the same steep. Make beer from each. Triangle test the resulting beers to determine if there is any astringency present in any of them, we can identify which process produced them. If the acidified water produced astringency, I bow to your obvious superiority! If the acidulate batch is NOT astringent, we can continue to perform various experiments until you prove me wrong. :-) I would perform the experiment myself, but currently have no time for brewing due to my janitorial duties. Any takers? More than one would be best... - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 04/13/01, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96
Convert This Page to Pilot DOC Format