HOMEBREW Digest #3613 Sat 21 April 2001

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  UPS Beer Woes (bobbrews) Johnson" <Robert at bobbrews.com>
  Rachel (Des Egan)
  Spruce beer (Ryan Malone)
  Protein rests and haze ("pksmith_morin1")
  Oxygen and CO2 Bottles ("Greenly, Jeff")
  Re: UPS Shipping Woes (james r layton)
  Fermentation length ("Fred L. Johnson")
  when to rack, fluid dynamics for dummys (Ed Jones)
  re:  UPS beer shipping woes ("Kensler, Paul")
  sour beer, souring weiss beer, peroxide. ("Dr. Pivo")
  Re: UPS Shipping Woes (Pat Babcock)
  Aeration - What kind of Oxygen? ("Kevin Eggemeyer")
  hops characteristics (Marc Sedam)
  Real identity of "Rachel"  at beerlink.co.uk (alastair)
  Cleaning Bottle Caps (JDPils)
  converting a minifridge (Marc Sedam)
  Re: UPS Shipping Woes ("Dion Hollenbeck")
  Temp Correction Factors for Specific Gravity ("Dennis Collins")
  aeration what type O2...spam ("Joseph Marsh")
  culturing Lacto-bacillis ("Songbird Tulip")
  Mader's Beer Dinner (Dan Wenger)
  Solid State Relay Questions ("Mike Pensinger")
  Call For Judges ("Gary Glass")
  fluid dynamics ("patrick finerty jr.")
  fermentation temperatures too low? ("Mike Capitain")
  Does alcohol (ethanol) have a taste? ("Stuart E. Strand")
  Re: Temperature Controllers (chezrad)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:43:13 -0700 From: "Robert (bobbrews) Johnson" <Robert at bobbrews.com> Subject: UPS Beer Woes Sorry to hear about your problems.. It's the policy that is at fault here ( it is clearly against the law to use US postal for beer or any alcohol, but not common carrier). I have more times than I can count shipped beer for competitions and for customers commercially. As well as being a homebrewer, I am a beer retailer in California. The local UPS is very helpful and I have no problem listing the contents as beer. Part of your problem was they were curious and opened it and found deception and that always raises a red flag whether legal or not. In fact most of them want to know what kind of beer! My two bits worth. Robert (bobbrews) Johnson www.bobbrews.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:10:54 +1000 From: Des Egan <desegan at telstra.com> Subject: Rachel Send emails complaining about the spam to the beerlink web site but don't visit (replies to "Rachel" only bounce back). The only email address at the web site is: advertising at beerlink.co.uk Tell them you disaprove of their marketing approach and that you are most unlikely to ever visit or advertise on their site! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 00:26:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Ryan Malone <valis42 at yahoo.com> Subject: Spruce beer I'm something of a newbie here, so my apologies if this has been gone over, but... The spruce beer thread has caught my eye. I have only had one such beer ever, I don't remember the name, but it was one of the more enjoyable brews I have ever tasted. My question is simply which part of the spruce is used -- the sprigs, I see, but how large or how many should I be looking for? Is any particular level of maturity more desirable? What style beer does this work best in (I can imagine it working well in just about any)? Thanks! Ryan Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 04:55:08 -0500 From: "pksmith_morin1" <pksmith_morin1 at msn.com> Subject: Protein rests and haze Frank's friend suggested a protein rest for his pilsner malt as a possible solution to his haze problem. I would avoid a protein rest, unless the malt is truly under-modified. Trying to attack haze by reducing the molecular weight of the available protein is sort of like a "cudgel" approach, rather than a "surgical" approach, because, as with most things in beer production, you are likely to impact on a whole host of other quality parameters. There is some evidence that there is crossover among beer proteins - although it is the proline-rich proteins which engage in haze formation, those same proteins may be involved in foam retention. Using brewhouse proteolysis, or certain proteolytic enzymes (i.e., papain) may reduce haze, but these methods may also kill the foamstand. Similarly, polyphenols in hops complex with proteins to produce haze, and certain protein "decoys," such as PVPP or Nylon 66, which have a similar linkage structure to that of haze-active protein, may be used to pull polyphenols out and reduce haze. These same additives tend to pull isohumulone, and aside from the impact on bitterness, they may impact on foamstand because of the positive contribution isohumulones are known to make to foamstand. The bottom line, in my book, is to avoid oxidation at all costs, not "monkey" around with raw material content. It does not seem that it is the presence of polyphenols or haze-active protein which really matters, per se; it is the oxidation of polyphenols which brings about haze, and trying to remove the precursors, as above, will likely impact on flavor, mouthfeel, or appearance. Cheers, Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 06:59:12 -0400 From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> Subject: Oxygen and CO2 Bottles Alexandre, I am pretty sure you have to have a prescription from a health care provider to get medical O2. The only difference is that there might be impurities in industrial 02. I use industrial O2 from my welding supplier and a ceramic stone from the pet store and have no problems... YMMV On your second question, I don't think you'd find anyone who'd put 02 in a bottle marked for CO2, but even if you did you shouldn't do it. Unless of course you have an unnatural fear of staying in one piece. O2 is an oxidizer and is really nasty stuff, especially under pressure. If I'm not mistaken, it would weaken a non-oxygen bottle pretty severely. Keep O2 away from petroleum products, heat sources and open flame, and use a O2-rated regulator with a bottle made for 02 and you should be all right. Jeff greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 16:49:09 -0300 From: "Alexandre Carminati" <carminat at email.com> Subject: Aeration - What kind of Oxygen ? When using oxygen (and a difusion stone) for mash aeration, what kind of oxygen should I use - I mean: it is available in medicinal and industrial versions... which one ? Both ? Other question: a CO2 cylinder can be filled with Oxygen ? Thanks a lot Alexandre - ------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 06:32:50 -0500 From: james r layton <blutick at juno.com> Subject: Re: UPS Shipping Woes Dean Fikar wrote about his problems with nosey UPS shippers. I had a similar problem except that they kept the opened box until my wife went back and picked it up. That cost me a few beer bullets. I came up with a solution to the problem that others may find useful. My local brewshop proprietor was happy to ship my package from his store. He weighs the box, I pay the fee, and the UPS driver picks it up at his store with no questions asked. On top of that, it costs less to ship from the store than it did to ship from the outfit that gave me the problem. Jim Layton Howe, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 07:47:24 -0400 From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Fermentation length Gregg asks if a two days fermentation is normal at 72 degrees F and asks how long to allow for a secondary fermentation One person recommended no more than five days in the secondary. Gregg, a fermentation in the low 70s probably will be essentially complete in two days. I do recommend that you slow this down a little. Try the wet T-shirt thing (if your using a glass carboy) if you don't have other means of cooling this. Regarding the secondary, I recommend that you allow the beer to clear well in the secondary before bottling to minimize the amount of yeast transferred to the bottle. There will be enough yeast in the bottle to carbonate in a couple of weeks unless you are extremely good at getting the beer out of the secondary without transferring some yeast. (I'm assuming that you are batch priming or at least batch bottling from a third vessel and not directly going into bottles from the secondary. In that case, it is possible that many bottles may get very little yeast.) If you do transfer more yeast than necessary by bottling before the beer in the secondary clears well, it will carbonate very quickly (3-4 days), but you will ultimately have a much thicker layer of yeast at the bottom of your bottle which will tend to be transferred to your glass. Only on one occasion, in which I had a barley wine in a secondary for many weeks, did I not get good carbonation in the bottle. - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina USA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:07:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Ed Jones <ejones at sdl.psych.wright.edu> Subject: when to rack, fluid dynamics for dummys In the short time I've been on this list I've seen several posts about racking into secondaries. I do this, but I usually wait until most of the fermentation is done in the primary, or it sits on the trub for a week, whichever comes first. It then takes a long time for the secondary fermentation to finish. At least I get very clear beers this way. For those that rack into secondarys, when do you do it? Should I rack the primary earlier so that there is more active yeast in suspension so that the secondary runs faster? Thanks for the great tips on beer line diameters, flow rates, and pressures. I've now only kegged 2 of my brews and I was having a helluva time keeping carbonation without shooting 100% foam. Last night I bought some 3/16 line and now I can keep 12 pounds of pressure on the keg and it serves properly. - -- Ed Jones "When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment, I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery." - written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:18:01 -0400 From: "Kensler, Paul" <Paul.Kensler at Cyberstar.com> Subject: re: UPS beer shipping woes Dean said: "After using UPS to ship beer at least a dozen times over the last couple of years I recently ran into my first real problem." ...and goes on to relate a tale of woe familiar, I'm sure, to many of us that have had to ship entries for competitions. I don't know about official policy, and I've never tried FedEx (something sticks in the back of my mind that its against their policy to ship alcoholic beverages, but don't quote me on that), but in my experience the UPS substations are a lot less competent and a lot more eager to open packages than a local "pack and mail" place like Mail Boxes Etc., Pak Mail, et al. I've always preferred to go to a local pack and mail business, especially when I can find one that's operated by the owner. I pay a little more, but I feel better about the handling the package receives at the counter and I get treated better. Just recently I went directly to a UPS substation because it's very close to work, and the staff there did a great job of reminding me why I never go straight to UPS. 3 people behind the counter, 2 of them chatting with somebody, I think an off duty employee. The guy I got stuck with couldn't find a measuring tape (apparently he needed to measure the dimensions of the box), and had to open the box (I labeled it "glass bottles") even though I assured him it was packed securely with packing foam and bubble wrap. He never did dig down to the bottles, all he did was open the flaps. But the real kicker was this: they didn't have any labels. Stop and reread the last sentence. How can UPS not have shipping labels? The solution was to hand-write the "to" and "from" addresses on a post-it note, which was then taped to the box. C'mon guys, get some labels. At least he used _clear_ packing tape to secure the post-it to the box... ;-) For me, the extra couple bucks are worth it to go to a local business that makes their money off of customers like me, instead of going to the warehouse where they couldn't care less about the walk-up customer and hire accordingly (I think Dean was rather conservative in his use of the words "cretin" and "semiliterate"). UPS may do fine _shipping_ the packages, but they don't do very good with the handoff. On a side note, are there any local competitions out there that are starting to accept those plastic amber beer bottles that they've come out with? Seems to me that for shipping competition entries off, they'd be perfect. Much less worry about breakage. PK Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:21:32 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: sour beer, souring weiss beer, peroxide. A quick snatch of some postings that seem to have to do with a beer that was "fine" at bottleing, where a lot of "non-rinse sanitizer" that produces hydrogen peroxide (which shall hereafter be known as H2O2, because it takes less key strokes), and a beer that may be sour or might be something else. And a nod at someone's Weiss Beir that went "Berliner" on him, wonders if it is Lactobacillus, and might like to recreate it. Some comments and suggestions: 1) I'd say a cheap and easy way to "know" if the beer is infected, or if what you are tasting is what one generally refers to as "sour", is to measure the pH. I seem to recall that most of the litmus type 0.3 interval strips that cover a "brewer's" range, start at 3.9. A finished beer nods off at just over "4". If your paper is "bottom of the scale", then you have something other than brewer's yeast in your brew. Having a "normal" pH doesn't mean that you can't possibly have an infection, but having a grossly low one means you most certainly do. If you don't have any of these, and you are really interested in knowing, you might want to borrow a strip from another brewer. If you can't find another brewer close by, you might ask SHMBO (She Who Minds Bodily Orifice) to have a "lady's complaint". While visiting the gynaecologist, and sitting in the "chair of humiliation and torture" ask her to look over on the tray beside her where the nasty pokey things are kept. There are often "strips" on or near that tray, to cover the same pH range, as there is one localization on the female body, which my extremely delicate and considerate nature forbids me from mentioning out loud, that is absolutely REPLETE with lactobacillus, and a little "pH measuring" here can judge whether you have a healthy or otherwise one of those things. This leads, of course, to two speculative thoughts: A) Either ask wife to bring home one of the used nasty pokey things, or collect one of your own samples, and stir it into an otherwise "healthy" Weiss Beir..... I'd say that'd about get you a Berliner style. B) People who complain of, or worry about infections, that were caused by starting syphons with their mouths..... Just what were you doing just prior to starting that syphon? Let's keep the plaid pants on, and all that sort of nonsense out of the brewhouse, please. Of course, a more refined method of measuring pH would be to use a "pH meter", and I just happen to know where an unused one is lying about at the moment. Look in Phil's garage, and pry it out of the turtle's head (I never really did know why Phil had to know the pH of that turtle's brain, or if he just thought lobotomizing it would make it more compliant in the tent.) 2) If the ambitious use of H2O2 generating "non-rinse" included the bottles, I'd say that what you are probably tasting is "old barrel", that is, a collection of staled tastes (some of which can indeed be perceived as "sourish" or "tart"). If you put H2O2 in the bottles and didn't rinse it off, that would be sort of equivalent to pumping pure oxygen through your finished beer, which is not to be recommended, and is what is called "Cold Side Aeration", and in contrast to it's cousin with a similar sounding name, is an actual, factual, real worry that every homebrewer should be wary of. H2O2 "works" as a sanitiser by generating oxygen and oxidizing the stinking bejeezus out of everything it comes in contact with (we will leave the discussion of such revolutionary groups as "The Free Radicals" out of this simplistic explanation). The oxygen gobbling habits of a freshly pitched yeast may well tolerate a bit of massively diluted H2O2 at pitching time.... but contact with it any later in the game would lead you straight down oxidation road, I'd reckon. 3) It was asked what one should use to rinse off "non-rinse" such as H2O2 with..... I use water. Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:55:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Re: UPS Shipping Woes Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Dean has had the UPS militia interdict his shipment: I label mine as "nonhazardous biological samples encased in glass". Have never had a problem... And paul writes: > UPS may do fine _shipping_ the packages, but they don't do very good > with the handoff. If what is meant by "shipping" is solely getting the majority of an individual package from Point A to Point B, I'd aree; however, I generally don't appreciate the CONDITION of the package once this transfer is complete. I believe that when Samsonite was finished with the ape they used to have in their commercials, UPS hired and bred the beast as a package handler... (Frankly, the USPS is no better in that regard, and you are less likely to lose the package in the deal. Never had a problem with FedEx, RPS , Airborne and some of the others; however, they're a helluva lot less convenient than the "Big Two"...) - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:54:07 -0500 From: "Kevin Eggemeyer" <KevinE at AccessTraining.com> Subject: Aeration - What kind of Oxygen? In response to Alexandre's question regarding oxygen: My understanding from my local gas supplier is that there are three grades of oxygen: 1) Medical, 2) Aviators, and 3) Welders. He said that he couldn't sell me "medical" grade oxygen, which is produced to be 99.9% pure, without a prescription. Welders grade oxygen is only ~98% pure, but I'm not sure what the contaminants are (the other ~2%). He suggested "aviators" grade oxygen, which is supposed to be 99% pure, and told me to call the regional airport. Has anyone had problems using "welders" grade oxygen? Are the contaminants something that could affect beer (e.g., oils) after the O2 is filtered? Has anyone gone through the trouble of getting "aviators" grade oxygen? Kevin Eggemeyer St. Louis, MO Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:02:46 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: hops characteristics I still find the book "Using Hops" written by Mark Garetz back in 1994, the best description of hops for the most common varietals. You can order it almost anywhere, but he does own HopTech in Danville, CA. Mark, if you read the HBD, PLEASE update the book for new varietals. Some in your book are not available any more, and I need good information about new ones. The best part of the profiles are substitution suggestions. Extraordinarily helpful. Cheers! Marc - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 07:04:09 -0700 (PDT) From: alastair <alastair at odin.he.net> Subject: Real identity of "Rachel" at beerlink.co.uk It looks like the same spam merchant behind beerlink.co.uk is also the creator of beerflavor.com (remember that spamming episode?) If you feel strongly about this sort of spamming, you can contact "Rachel" (aka Lee Stenning) at the following address - lee at stenning.org Have fun! Alastair Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:04:57 EDT From: JDPils at aol.com Subject: Cleaning Bottle Caps Greetings Beerlings, This is one of my favorite topics. While I also do not encourage sloppy sanitation practices, I have only sanitized bottle caps once (for my first batch of beer). It was a PITA and some of the seals came off. This was in 1989! Since then I have brewed 145 batches of beer. I have not had any issues that I can detect and have won two BOS in Seattle area competitions. My only rule is to avoid finger contact on the seal and if the cap falls to the ground seal down throw it out. I am glad to see other brewers speaking out on this topic. Brewing is fun but does take quite a bit of time effort and I personally like to invest mine efficiently. Cheers, Jim Dunlap Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:14:25 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: converting a minifridge Jeff (Socinian at aol.com) asks about converting a fridge, and what size to get... Well, first off, now is the time to find out. Go to your local college/university and buy a used dorm fridge off of some poor student who needs that $50 for beer money. Peel back the gasket on the door and you'll see about 16 screws. Remove them and take the molded shelving off the door. Replace with some bubble insulation. I used reflective insulation recommended for water heaters and sealed with metal flashing tape. Works well. Next, take the freezer compartment on the top of the fridge and gently bend it down so it sits at the back of the fridge. This is easier with newer models, IMHO. Now your corny keg will sit just barely on the shelf where the "crisper" drawer usually sits. Since the freezer portion is now at the back of the fridge you can drill up through the top with few worries. A shot of expanding insulation up there when you install the draft tower would be cool too. There you go. Kegerator for under $70, excluding tap tower. Or you just buy the whole thing already done for you at American Brewmaster in Raleigh (http://www.americanbrewmaster.com). Cheers! Marc - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 07:45:17 -0700 From: "Dion Hollenbeck" <hollen at woodsprite.com> Subject: Re: UPS Shipping Woes I have had success with taking beers to ship to an independent shipper, like Mail Boxes, Etc. They don't care about being bureaucratic about UPS rules, they just care about getting their profit from the UPS shipping. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com Brewing Page: http://hdb.org/hollen Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 22:50:40 -0400 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Temp Correction Factors for Specific Gravity I've always wondered how accurate the temperature correction tables for specific gravity were. Specifically, I'm wondering if they are good for a wort of any gravity. For example, if I have a 1.040 SG wort at 60 F and a 1.060 wort at 60 F, does the same temperature correction table for specific gravity apply to both worts? Any input from you fluid science types would be appreciated. A friend of mine has a little immersion wort chiller built into his hydrometer flask so that he doesn't have to use the tables. It cools the sample wort in about 15 seconds I think this is a great idea and am probably going to incorporate one into my equipment, but I'm still curious about the tables. Dennis Collins Knoxville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:47:02 -0500 From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62 at hotmail.com> Subject: aeration what type O2...spam Alexandre asks what type of oxygen to use. I don't think it matters. all bottled O2 is oil free else it would explode. I'm almost certain that the only difference between medical grade and welding O2 is the packaging and possibly a bit more care with sanitation at the connection. Yes I got spammed too. Told her to take me of her spam list and blocked the site and her. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:55:15 -0600 From: "Songbird Tulip" <richarddulany at hotmail.com> Subject: culturing Lacto-bacillis Steven wrote: "Sooo, (1) how do I test for Lacto-bacillis, (2) if it is indeed LB,how do I maintain it, or culture it?" Well Steven, SWMBO, also known as "Dr. Tulip" the Board-Certified OB-GYN specialist, informed me that every woman's vagina is ripe and seething with LB. You might try culturing it there! Songbird Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:59:14 -0500 From: Dan Wenger <dkw at execpc.com> Subject: Mader's Beer Dinner Last night I attended Mader's International Beer Dinner at Mader's German Restaraunt in Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA. I thought some of you might appreciate their beer selections to accompany the five-course meal: Shrimp tempura and spicy miso black bean relish, served with Duvel Belgian Ale (Belgium) Vegetarian spring roll and seaweed salad, served with Edelweiss Kristall Weiss (Austria) Oxtail soup and fried shallots, served with Fullers' London Pride (England) Roasted squab and cinnamon honey glaze, served with Hofbrau Mai Bock (Germany) Coffee torte, served with New Glarus Coffee Stout (Wisconsin) The Fullers impressed me the most, partly because I've sampled the other beers before, and partly because it went so well with the oxtail soup. Each course was served with an introduction of the beer by a brewery representative, and description of the course by the executive chef. The food, beer and atmosphere were excellent. Quite a nice evening. They're doing one a month until they sample "all the beer styles in the world." If you're in the Milwaukee area, I recommend it. Dan Wenger Waukesha Wisconsin USA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:17:56 -0400 From: "Mike Pensinger" <beermkr at bellatlantic.net> Subject: Solid State Relay Questions Hello all, Well the new HERMS system is coming together nicely but I seem to have hit a bump in the road. Let me explain: I use 3 240VAC 1500W heaters to heat my HLT. I use a magnetic drive 115VA pump to recirc my Mash. The 115V side of the system works like a dream. The 240V side is another matter. I have some Solid State Relays (SSR's) to controll the whole thing. One is a 240 10A model that controls the pump. It works. I have various other SSR' ranging up to 240V 40A. The original plan had been to put the 40A unit on one side of the plugs for the heater. When I pluged everything in to check the power the plugs were all hot. They read 245VAC. So the question comes to mind is the 240VAC rating on a solid State relay a Maximum amount. Is that extra 5V causing the junction to break down? I have tried putting a SSR on all three lines and still the same thing. Help me please! Mike Pensinger beermkr at bellatlantic.net http://members.bellatlantic.net/~beermkr Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 12:35:10 -0600 From: "Gary Glass" <gary at aob.org> Subject: Call For Judges Hi All, Judging for the first round of the AHA's National Homebrew Competition is coming up. If you are interested in judging or stewarding, you still have a chance to get in on the action for next weekend (April 28 - 29). Contact the following sites if you are interested in helping out: Northwest Judging at F. H. Steinbart in Portland, OR Contact Mike and Mark at ahanw at patch.com. California Judging at AleSmith Brewing Co. in San Diego, CA Contact Tyce Heldenbrand at Tyce.Heldenbrand at wfinet.com, 858-442-3041 Great Lakes Judging at Rock Bottom Brewery in Chicago, IL Contact Jeff Sparrow at JEFFREY.C.SPARROW at chi.monsanto.com, 847-982-4719 Northeast Judging at Empire Brewing Co and Rohrbach Brewing Co. Contact Paul Guarracini at oldeezra at aol.com, 716-223-0778 or contact me at gary at aob.org, 888-U-CAN-BREW. Cheers! Gary Gary Glass, Membership Coordinator American Homebrewers Association 736 Pearl Street Voice: (303) 447-0816 x 121 PO Box 1679 Fax: (303) 447-2825 Boulder, CO 80306-1679 Email: gary at aob.org U.S.A. Web: http://www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:06:10 -0400 From: "patrick finerty jr." <zinc at finerty.net> Subject: fluid dynamics howdy folks, if anyone cares to write it down, i would appreciate a 'real' (rather than my lame one) explanation for the resistance of any fluid to movement through a tube. if it isn't interactions with the tubing or simply amongst the molecules in the liquid (viscosity), then what produces the resistance to flow? slainte, patrick in Toronto Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:20:24 -0400 From: "Mike Capitain" <mcapitain at diskonnected.com> Subject: fermentation temperatures too low? ive been brewing for about a year so far, and most of my batches during the summer come out pretty nice. but i just realized the temperatures ive been fermenting in durin the winters have been slightly too low. three of my batches (still in fermenters) are having this problem and are not progressing very well. if i transport the batches to a warmer place now, how will the lower temps affect my final product? also, how can i keep the temp up durin the winter w/o the use of heaters which draw a lot of electricity? - sincerely, - michael capitain Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:49:24 -0700 From: "Stuart E. Strand" <sstrand at u.washington.edu> Subject: Does alcohol (ethanol) have a taste? this is perhaps a stupid question, but I would like to get the group's opinion on what contribution ethanol makes to the taste of beer. I can certainly tell the difference between real beer and a nonalcoholic grain beverage, but am hard pressed to describe the taste of ethanol. Maybe the more sensory aware of the group will enlighten me. = Stuart = Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 22:16:50 -0400 From: chezrad at bellsouth.net Subject: Re: Temperature Controllers John Zeller asked why people tend to use PID's but not PLC's. In my opinion there are several reasons for this. First, most people are not comfortable with programming PLC's. I know that most are now programmed using ladder logic and it is fairly simple to understand, however, some people are not comfortable with this. Second, the inexpensive PLC's typically do not contain PID capabilities. On top of that, most do not allow for the direct connection of low voltage input devices like RTD's. Finally, the majority of companies that sell PLC's (at least the last time that I looked) that did contain PID capability, had direct connection of RTD's as an option and were inexpensive, required that the buyer also purchase the software to program the unit. This software typically ran 3 to 4 time the cost of the PLC itself. This is the reason that I went with PID controllers. If I am wrong and the situation has changed, please let me know. I wanted a PLC to start with. Return to table of contents
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