HOMEBREW Digest #364 Fri 23 February 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Hop Rhizomes (Rick Myers)
  Norman Conquest Strong Ale (John Mellby)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #363 (February 22, 1990) (Paul Perlmutter x2549)
  Re: Calories in Beer ("MISVX1::HABERMAND")
  Hopped Extracts ("Allen J. Hainer")
  Refrigerators and Yeast (Norm Hardy)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 22 Feb 90 9:27:45 MST From: Rick Myers <cos.hp.com!hpctdpe!rcm at hp-lsd> Subject: Hop Rhizomes Full-Name: Rick Myers Pete Soper mentioned two places where hop rhizomes could be obtained, Freshops and Marysville Oast. I ordered some from Nichols Garden Nursery this year. They have Cascade, Tettnanger, and Willamette, for $3.45 each or 4 for $12.95. Nichols Garden Nursery 1190 North Pacific Highway Albany, Oregon 97321 (503) 928-9280 (503) 967-8406 FAX - -- Rick rcm at hpctdpe.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 90 10:18:22 CST From: jmellby at ngstl1.csc.ti.com (John Mellby) Subject: Norman Conquest Strong Ale I brewed my lastest beer last night. It is to be called Norman Conquest Ale. (Anyone who cannot guess the original gravity should hang your head and take two steps backward.) Unfortunately, during the brewing, I was the Saxons! I already related how I tried and failed to start yeast from SN Bigfoot Ale. I gave up for this batch and used some MEV liquid yeast. The recipe so far: 1 package mev 013 high temp Ale yeast (started two days ahead and added to a quart of sterile wort 3 hrs beforehand. 2 tsp gypsum 3/4 lb crystal (brought just to a boil in 1 quart water, then the water was added to the main wort) 1 can American Light malt syrup 1 can Coopers Bitter Ale Kit 1 can Coopers Draugth Ale Kit 1 lb amber malt powder 2 oz Northern Brewer (added 10 minutes into boil) 2 oz Willmetter (added 30 minutes into boil) O.K. I see some puzzled looks out there! The Norman Conquest was in 1066, and the Normans beat the Saxons. I say I was the Saxons because this was the most troubling and messy brew yet! Besides the first yeast failing, the crystal malt boiled over, the main kettle boiled over, and when I divided it into two kettles, the smaller kettle boiled also (you would think I would learn, wouldn't you?) I had ready 2 gallons of boiled and cooled water, so the temperature was down under 80 very quickly. I added the yeast at about 79 degrees. This morning it hadn't started to ferment yet. What I want to know is, how does the wort know exactly when my back it turned, so it can instantly boil over? I never see it start to raise, but I turn to the sink for ONE SECOND and when I turn around, the stove is covered with molten wort! Wish me luck on this one! John R. Mellby Texas Instruments (had nothing to do with this!) jmellby at ngstl1.ti.com (214)517-5370 (h) (214)343-7585 (w) ****************************************************************** * "Short of hearing the patter of rain on the window of a shared * * bedroom on a Sunday morning, there is nothing more pleasurable * * than the sight of drenched people shaking out their raincoats * * as they enter the haven of a pub." * * -- Michael Jackson * ****************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 90 09:48:06 mst From: Paul Perlmutter x2549 <paul at hppaul.hp.com> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #363 (February 22, 1990) Full-Name: Paul Perlmutter x2549 Some books talk about "dry hopping". In particular, Line's book suggests dry hopping for numerous recipes. By "dry hopping" we mean putting fresh hops into cool wort - either in the primary fermenter or secondary fermenter. I find this curious, since fresh organic material is bound to introduce undesirable bacteria and / or yeasts! How do brewers get away with this? From Line's book, I do believe that brewers dry-hop regularly. What are the implications of this? Cheers, Paul Perlmutter HP/Ft. Collins and HP/Bristol, England Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Feb 90 09:00:00 PDT From: "MISVX1::HABERMAND" <habermand%misvx1.decnet at afal-edwards.af.mil> Subject: Re: Calories in Beer I recently purchased Fred Eckhardt's book "The Essentials of Beer Style - A Catalog of Classic Beer Styles for Brewers & Beer Enthusiasts". I haven't read the entire volume yet, but it seems to be an excellent reference for defining the different styles of beer and their characteristics with commercial exaamples. He gives the starting and ending gravities, alcohol content, hop level, and color for hundreds of beers. There are also sections on beer tasting and beer brewing. In the section on low calorie beers, he states that a quick calorie count may be made of any beer by multiplying the original extract degrees Plato by 13.5. Remember that 4 gravity points is approximatly equal to 1 degree Plato (i.e. 1.044 OG = 11 deg. Plato. Fred also goes into detail how to compute original and final gravities based on the calorie count, and amounts of carbohydrates aaaand protein. (Evidently low calorie beers put this stuff on the label.) Going by the book's numbers for OG, Bass Ale has 159 calories, Guinness Extra Stout, 178 calories, and Thomas Hardy's Ale, (I wish I had some) 404 calories. These are all based on 12 oz. servings. David Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 90 12:02:03 EST From: "Allen J. Hainer" <ajhainer at violet.waterloo.edu> Subject: Hopped Extracts Why can't producers of hopped extracts indicate on their labels the level of bitterness? Something as simple as "12 AAUs Bittering Hops" would not give away the receipe. Something like "12 AAUs Bullion Hops" would be even better. The unhopped extracts available to me are extremely limited and expensive, so I am forced to use these hopped extracts. My only information about them is through word of mouth and experimentation. My current batch is my first disaster due to this poor labeling. I used Cooper's Australian "Real Ale" because I had heard that it was lightly hopped. I used two cans of it because I don't like to use corn sugar or the unhopped extracts available to me (DMX was sold out). Because I like a bitter beer, this is usually not a problem. This time I wasn't quite as lucky. Along with the 8 AAUs Cascade I added, this beer is almost undrinkable. I have never tasted anything so bitter (and believe me, I have had my fun with Bullion!). I have since heard that there have been complaints about the level of bitterness in this extract. I am not saying this is a bad thing, I like a bitter beer, but how does one tell one from the other at purchase time? Does anyone know what can be done about this? I'm fed up with trial and error. -al (ajhainer at violet.waterloo.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 90 16:21:02 PST From: hplabs!polstra!norm (Norm Hardy) Subject: Refrigerators and Yeast When using a fridge to ferment, I allow the carboy (fermenter) to get visibly active before putting it into the fridge. Ideally I have the fridge temp set to a higher value and then slowly lower it by 2-4 degrees a day until it gets to 38 or so. Practically I just shove the fermenter in and let the sucker work in the cold. The lager yeast I use (YBL-2 from Mev and 2007 from Wyeast) seem not to mind at all. The primary ferment always takes between 30 and 45 days. Bottled lagers (for me) take 21-38 days to carbonate at the lower temp, but the taste is well worth it, believe me. If you are the type to worry, let the bottles sit at 55-60f for a week before refrigerating. Carbonation will be more quickly achieved. I have NEVER had to add more yeast at bottling time. Norm in Seattle Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #364, 02/23/90 ************************************* -------
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