HOMEBREW Digest #3680 Tue 10 July 2001

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Re: UPS shipping woes - followup ("RJ")
  temp gradient in mash ("marc_hawley")
  Canadian Amateur Brewers Association Summer BBQ ("Rob Jones")
  Stuff- Brewbot, Flags, Yeast, Consumer Reports ("David Craft")
  Russian Kwass (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com>
  Home Brew TriNations (Ant Hayes)
  UPS shipping woes (Richard Foote)
  Stuck Fermentation? (Smith Asylum)
  rusty fittings (The Freemans)
  Temperature and mash thickness effects on fermentability (Jeff Renner)
  Beer, Beer, & More Beer (NM)" <MarkC.Lane at voicestream.com>
  Caution!! What I don't have in my freezer (Kurt Kiewel)
  Budvar yeast (Bryan Gros)
  bottle color, let's spark a debate ("Milone, Gilbert")
  Belgian Wit ("Milone, Gilbert")
  Extract brewing... the last 10 minutes (Tim  Burkhart)
  Brix to Refractive index conversion (Demonick)
  Star San ("Ed Howell")

* * July is American Beer Month! Drink American Beer. * * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 09:12:59 -0400 From: "RJ" <wortsbrewing at cyberportal.net> Subject: Re: UPS shipping woes - followup LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> wrote: "In HBD#3678 Dean Fikar <dfikar at swbell.net> told us his solution to UPS refusing to ship his entries." "I ran into the same problem when I was sending to 2nd round AHA in 1999. Since I declared I had glass, they needed to inspect the packaging. Finding beer bottles, they went on to say they can't ship it." The best way to ship UPS is (not to tell them anything) just indicate on the package that "SAMPLES" are enclosed and mark the package with "DO NOT CRUSH / THIS SIDE UP". Package your bottles inside a sealed garbage bag, with plenty of bubble wrap, in between the bottles and all around the outside so that there is no "clinking" sound when shaken. I've never had a problem getting anything out this way! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 08:31:31 -0500 From: "marc_hawley" <marc_hawley at msn.com> Subject: temp gradient in mash In Homebrew Digest #3674 (July 02, 2001) Stuart Strand said > >about a 8-10 deg F temperature gradient in the mash that I cannot get rid of >by running the recirc pump. The top is always hot, the bottom always cool. >Manual mixing helps for a while, but the gradient always returns. The >manifold makes mixing problematic. Any suggestions? If stirring is a problem, then I think the key is insulation, insulation, insulation. You must be losing a lot of heat from the tun. I use a layer of aluminum "bubble wrap" insulation under the tun and an insulation blanket of the type sold for water heaters around the tun. I also keep a towel or small blanket tucked over the lid. There will always be a gradient, but you should be able to keep it down to a couple of degrees F. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2001 21:21:15 -0400 From: "Rob Jones" <robjones at pathcom.com> Subject: Canadian Amateur Brewers Association Summer BBQ A CABA/Toronto Brewers Guild BBQ is planned for Saturday, August 11 in Toronto. As announced at the GCHC May 2001, Jeff Renner is making a return visit to sample the 1.060 mega-CAP that was brewed during the conference. Also on tap will be what's left of a vienna from the hosts supply, and a 1.050 CAP brewed two weeks after the conference, plus anything else that is contributed by CABA members. Please use this as an opportunity to have your brews sampled by others for feedback, or simply for boasting rights! The BBQ will be a pot-luck, so please contact Rob Jones at robjones at axxent.ca for details, directions, and suggestions on what edibles and potables to bring. All CABA members, and anyone interested in CABA or the newly formed Toronto Homebrewers Guild are welcome. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2001 16:18:11 -0400 From: "David Craft" <David-Craft at craftinsurance.com> Subject: Stuff- Brewbot, Flags, Yeast, Consumer Reports Greetings, I read the article the other day on the brewbot. Interesting and really hillarious if you think about. I told my wife I know my real existence, as a Brewbot. The link provided in yesterdays digest will work. However Outlook or whatever email program Bob used split the link in two parts. Cut and paste the second part on the first in your browser. If you just hit the first part you will error out....... The brew flags have gone out today to those that have paid. Enjoy. I am going to make an Abby beer in the next week or so and ferment under my house in the 75 degree range using Wyeast Abbey. Is that temp to high. I don't seem to think so, but I don't want too many funky flavors! Did anyone read Consumer Reports issue on beer? Pretty simplistic but interesting. Rolling Rock faired poorly for the corn flavor, I have always thought that. Sam Adams and Sierra did well. Schlitz and Pabst do well in the Light Lager category for alot less than BudCoorMiller. Anchor Steam was knocked down for the bitter aftertaste. I always thought it was too bitter in the finish. It detracts from the other nice flavors that develop in the warmer ferment. I just tapped my Anchor clone and it missed on the finishing bitterness, but has nice flavors across the toungue. The reviewers of CR would like it. I used a Bavarian Lager yeast at 60 degrees.......It is Anchor without as much bite in the end. I am going to SF in August and plan on visiting the brewery. Brew on, David B. Craft Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 08:57:36 +0200 From: "Aikema, J.N. (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com> Subject: Russian Kwass Hi, : "Peter Fantasia" fantasiapeter at hotmail.com <mailto:fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> asked about: The Russian Kwass Nearly every nation knew the tradition to make in a simple way a sourish alcoholic drink. Like the Babylonian and the Egyptian, after they discovered earlier how to make heavy storable beers. The "Zythos" of the Egyptians was a simple drink, called "Focha" by the Arabs, spread all over the world by the Islamites as "Buza". This drink looks a bit like the Russian Kwass. The primitive way of preparing stayed for thousends of years the same. And so the properties of this refreshing drink. Drank by the nations of the Middle-East, but also the European Royal Court. In particular by the Russians which aappreciated this beer together with sauerkraut. The original way to prepare was to let flour and water getting sour. Another way was to make bread or roast the grain, mill, mix with water en let getting sour. After filtration it was ready to drink. Also maize was baked as polenta and treated as mentioned above. To make it more spicy, different spices and especially peppermint was added. Later on rye-, barley-, wheat- and buckwheatflour were used or their malts and sugar as adjunct. And the spontaneous fermentation was replaced by using beeryeast. Well-defined ways of preparing were for hospitals, military bases etc. At home the kwass was made in the traditional way, so with peppermint. Also raisins were added. The next way for preparing is from (:ueber den Kwass und dessen Bereitung. R.Kober.Halle 1896). Bread of rye is covered with boiling water and left for about 20 hrs. This mixture is filtered, sugar, some tartaric acid and sourdough is added. The sourdough is made from wheatflour and yeast. As soon as fermentation starts the fluid is bottled. For brewing of kwass is used: 4 parts barley- and ryemalt, 3 parts of ryeflour and 1 part of buckwheat. This is mixed with warm water to make a thin mash, stored for some hours (stirred from time to time) and finally put in a tub. After adding peppermint and hot water the mash is stored until the next day. Further treatment as mentioned above. In the past kwass was consumed directly after brewing, later on after a few days after bottling. About the bacteria flora is not much knowledge. Probably mainly lactic bacteria. Because of the decrease in pH, growth of other bacteria was suppressed. But acetic acid bacteria and thermobacteria kept on staying a risk. Investigation of different kinds of kwass show 0,15-0,5 % lactic acid and 0,008-0,1 % acetic acid. Alcohol and carbondioxyde content are low and variable. Alcohol content seldom exceeds 2 % and carbondioxyde content stops mostly at 0.15 %. Extract differs from 2 to more than 6 %. Translated from:Obergaerige biere Greetings from Holland (Europe), Hans Aikema http://www.hopbier.myweb.nl Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 09:07:10 +0200 From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes at FifthQuadrant.co.za> Subject: Home Brew TriNations The Home Brew TriNations final will take place in Sydney on 24 November this year. Any Australians, Kiwis or South Africans interested - check out http://www.geocities.com/anthayes/trinations.html Ant Hayes Gauteng; South Africa Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 10:06:55 -0400 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: UPS shipping woes In regards to UPS shipping of precious cargo... I thought I'd chime in with my experience in hopes it may help others. Having lived in various states, I have noticed that UPS outlets have different standards depending on who is behind the counter. When I lived in Vermont, each time I went to UPS to ship beer, I did so with extreme trepidation. This was because this particular UPS location was staffed by the "UPS Nazi". She (liberal use of the term) took extreme delight in rejecting packages that were anything less than bomb proof. She would first eye the package in question and then conjure up her diabolical torture test du jour. One of her faves was ramming her fist through any vulnerable spot such as a taped seam. She'd say, "Look, rammed my fist through it. Try again tomorrow. Hey, whatcha got in that box anyway?" By this time I was usually running (with box in tow) for the door lest I be found out and blow my cover and suffer even closer scrutiny by the "UPS Nazi". Now in GA, I've not had any hint of problems with UPS. I go there very calm and without delusions of persecution. The only thing I don't like is that they're not open from like noon to 3 p.m. I used to go there to ship stuff on my lunch hour. Who devised these brilliant hours anyway? I've also used Mail Boxes Etc. with good results. They do charge a premium for their services though. Local, independent drug stores (in my area anyway) also offer UPS shipping. As far as the "contents" portion of the UPS shipping form, I try to avoid any description that implies glassware in order to fly low under the radar--probably comes from my experience at the hands of the "UPS Nazi". Tip: Also avoid "bomb" as description of contents. Hope this helps. YMMV. Rick Foote Murrayville, GA (UPS shipping paradise) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 07:07:53 -0700 From: Smith Asylum <smithly at neta.com> Subject: Stuck Fermentation? It's been six weeks now and the SG has been stuck at 1.030 for a week yet it is still bubbling through the airlock. I started with an OG of 1.085. It's a partial mash, knock off of Samual Smiths Winter Welcome Ale. The recipe called for four weeks in fermentation. I assume the FG should be no greater than 1.015 to reduce the chance of creating grenades. It seemed to be stuck (no change in SG for a week) so I added 1/2 tsp of yeast nutrient to the carboy. It got active and dropped to from 1.036 to 1.030 in three days. As I said, the SG hasn't dropped in a week so I racked it over to another carboy and added another 1/2 tsp of nutrient to see if I could wake it up. I've been keeping it at 66 deg and taste testing it whenever I check the SG. It tastes great! I am anxious to get it into the bottle (my losses are mounting) so my question(s) is/are: What is the highest safe level of SG to bottle with and is there anything else I can do to bring it down to that level (short of adding grain alcohol)? Thanks for your time, Lee Smith Chandler AZ In retrospect, maybe I should have gotten more experience before I tried such a BIG Beer! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 09:19:27 -0500 From: The Freemans <potsus at Bellsouth.net> Subject: rusty fittings I'll post the same thing here that I posted on the B&V when you asked back on July 1. It is possible that what you are seeing is a discoloration caused by the TIG heat rather than rust. If a piece of STAINLESS scrubbie won't take it off, I wouldn't worry about it. I say stainless because a steel or iron scrubbie, such as "steel wool" or Brillo pad, will leave a residue that will indeed rust. If it still bothers you, a small grinder such as a Dremel with a stone bit will remove all traces of the discoloration. The same grinder method should be used on the "sugar" like gray sponge that turns up on the inside of a weld made by a TIG. This is literally a stainless sponge that can suck up all sorts of nasties. Either way, if the pot is used for boiling, most nasties will die from the boil heat. Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat KP Brewery - home of "the perfesser" Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 10:47:08 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Temperature and mash thickness effects on fermentability Mashers Someone just asked about temperature and mash thickness effects on fermentability on one of the groups I subscribe to (HBD, OzCB and UKHB), so I'll post this to all as I think it has interest to all mashers. Here is a great HBD post from 1997. I don't know if Andrew is still on HBD. I've slightly edited it (...) to eliminate another topic. Jeff -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 12:30:31 -0500 From: Andrew Stavrolakis <andrew_stavrolakis at harvard.edu> Subject: Malt Sugar Profiles ... concerning the ... question of sugar profiles of mashed grain wort, it brings to mind a private email discussion I had with an individual at Lallemand Ltd. (a Canadian yeast co.) regarding fermentability of wort. A number of factors influence the fermentable/nonfermentable sugar composition of wort including mash temperature and mash thickness, as follows: Temp. in degrees Celcius % of wort solids 60 66 68 Monosaccharides 10.1 9.5 10.2 Disaccharides 51.7 48.1 42.0 Trisaccharides 14.3 13.6 12.7 Maltodextrins 0.1 4.1 9.7 %Extract 76.2 75.3 74.6 %Fermentables 76.1 71.2 65.1 Effect of mash thickness on Saccharification at 66 C. % of wort solids Mash thickness 67Kg/Hl 39Kg/Hl 29Kg/Hl Monosaccharides 11.9 9.5 8.1 Disaccharides 42.9 48.1 46.6 Trisaccharides 12.6 13.6 15.0 Maltodextrins 11.9 9.5 8.1 %Extracts 73.4 75.3 74.2 %Fermentables 67.4 71.2 69.7 I have found this info to very helpful in tailoring single temperature infusion mashes to particular beer styles using highly modified British pale malt. I hope this is helpful to others. Andrew Stavrolakis Boston, Ma. Andrew_Stavrolakis at harvard.edu - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 08:56:13 -0700 From: "Lane, Mark C. (NM)" <MarkC.Lane at voicestream.com> Subject: Beer, Beer, & More Beer Does anybody have any good or bad experiences ordering through morebeer.com? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 11:09:24 -0500 From: Kurt Kiewel <kiewel at mail.chem.tamu.edu> Subject: Caution!! What I don't have in my freezer HBDers, In an effort to fit all of my beer in my chest freezer I embarked on a cleaning and organizing weekend. With some effort I was able to organize and pack everything in the freezer and leave an inch or so around the edge so that the bottles near the outside wouldn't freeze. I even drilled a hole in the side to accommodate the probe of thermostat to improve the internal aesthetics of the cooler. After polishing off the beers in the kitchen fridge over the next few days I returned to the chest freezer to find nearly every single beer inside frozen solid and nearly every bottle broken. BEER DISASTER! I couldn't believe it. The fault lies in the fact that I didn't insert the temperature probe ALL THE WAY in the hole I drilled in the side. As a result the controller read mostly the outside temperature and kept supplying electricity to the freezer even though the inside temp. was around -10F. I didn't understand that the entire bulb of the Johnson controller (which I had used properly for the previous 2 years) must be inside the freezer. Having use hundreds of thermocouples at work I though I only needed to insert the tip. Don't let this happen to you! So, What do I have in my freezer? After defrosting, I had about a 1 foot deep lake of beer, broken glass and flip top hangers. Kurt Kiewel College Station, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 09:14:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Bryan Gros <blgros at yahoo.com> Subject: Budvar yeast "Dave Howell" <djhowell at qwest.net> asked, last week, about experience with the Budvar yeast. I just racked my pilsner to begin lagering, but out of the hydrometer tube, it seems quite nice. And my primary fermenter got too warm, and I had trouble getting the wort into the fermenter to begin with (long story...). I saved the dregs from the carboy for another batch (and maybe a bock...). BTW, St. Pats says this is exclusively theirs. Does Wyeast package it only for Lynne? - Bryan Bryan Gros Oakland, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 13:01:11 -0400 From: "Milone, Gilbert" <gilbert.milone at uconn.edu> Subject: bottle color, let's spark a debate I'm new to homebrewing, I have 10 cases of clear glass bottles from a type of Cuban soda I used to buy. Can I use these bottles to hold my beer? I am bottling mostly English ale and Irish stout. I will be storing the brew in the cases, and in the basement.So it shouldn't skunk if it's stored in the case????????? -Gil Milone Private replies gilbert.milone at uconn.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 13:55:53 -0400 From: "Milone, Gilbert" <gilbert.milone at uconn.edu> Subject: Belgian Wit Anyone had success using Wheatbeer malt extract? If so what is a good one to use to make a wit, and do you know where I can get brewing supplies in CT? Thanks Gil Milone Gilbert.milone at uconn.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 13:54:48 -0500 From: Tim Burkhart <tburkhart at dridesign.com> Subject: Extract brewing... the last 10 minutes Thanks to those who responded to my questions about Breiss Bavarian Extract. Think I may try balancing the Breiss with some dry-light extract for lighter color or just try dry-wheat and dry-light extracts. I'll also remove any steeping malts that may darken the resulting brew. Kim Thompson suggests first steeping grains, next the hop additions, then adding extract only in the last 10 minutes to sterilize. Says this prevents the wort from caramalizing and darkening much further in the boil. Also mentions this is used with great success. Anyone else out there using this method? And here I thought whipping up a batch of extract wheat would be a nice summer break from day long all-grain sessions... nothing is as simple as it seems... Tim Burkhart Kansas City Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 17:00:44 -0700 From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: Brix to Refractive index conversion I jumped on the refractometer bandwagon some time ago with a 0-30 Brix handheld, then more recently with a 0-10 Brix handheld. Went back through the archives (thanks to Louis Bonham & Peter Ensminger), and found lots of help with calculations and formulas, but no conversion formula for Brix to Refractive index. Calculations of alcohol content used refractive index lookup tables. A quick check of the CRC Handbook of Physics and Chemistry yielded a nice table of "Index of Refraction of Aqueous Solutions of Sucrose" for 0-85%. An analysis of the table contents yielded a very good curve fit for the 0-35% range which is about a specific gravity range of 1.000-1.1500. RI = 1.33302 + 0.001427193(B) + 0.000005791157(B^2) where, RI = Refractive Index B = degrees Brix B^2 = degrees Brix squared The standard deviation over the 36 data points is 0.000035. Domenick Seattle, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 21:48:04 -0500 From: "Ed Howell" <edhoel at hal-pc.org> Subject: Star San Does anyone know how long a working solution of Star San will last? I have 5 gallons of working solution that was made up a week ago stored in a sealed opaque container. Thanks, Ed Howell Houston, TX Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 07/10/01, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96
Convert This Page to Pilot DOC Format