HOMEBREW Digest #3883 Thu 07 March 2002

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  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  saflager yeast differences ("Dr. Pivo")
  Re:  drilling the Sankorny ("Dennis Collins")
  Mash Panic (Randy Ricchi)
  Bazooka Screen Usage ("Rogers, Mike")
  mini keg advice ("Ron L")
  Re: Arrested Fermentation for NA (Jeff Renner)
  Re: drilling the Sankorny (Jeff Renner)
  carb cap leaks (The Freemans)
  Re: spigots ("Pete Calinski")
  Specific Heat of Mlat ("Dan Listermann")
  Guinness and Vancouver (John Scime)
  Where to get 10 gallon Rubbermaid/Gott coolers? ("Neil Kushnir")
  mead pH (Rama Roberts)
  re: Filtering beer ("Michael O'Donnell")
  Marcato Marga Mulino Roller Grain Flaking Mill (Clifton Moore)
  re: Mash Panic (Eric Miller)
  Re: Mash Panic (Don Price)
  Oxyclean Incident and Warning (Al Klein)
  Carbonator Cap Problem ("Carrol McCracken - Mediacom")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 00:34:15 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report Good to still be here...despite reports of my demise..... >From: "Tom Logan" <tdlogan at ksu.edu> >Subject: Stupid brewer tricks v.200.z > ><SNIP> >Now to my question. I used 2 packs of fresh Nottingham dry yeast with an >old package thrown in for good measure. It has been really slow getting >started, I assume because I rehydrated it too soon before pitching. My >siphon was slow from pot to fermentor so the yeast sat 40 minutes or so. >The yeast was good as it foamed up quickly. But it took nearly 24 hours >before any action/bubbling took place (I have a clear fermentor so I could >look at the action), and 32 before active fermentation was taking place. It >is cool in the basement, 60-65F, but I have used it before without this long >of a lag. <SNIP> >Tom Logan-brewing on the prairie >Manhattan, KS >South and West-Rennarian Tom, I used to know some brewers out there in Manhattan... The Little Apple Brew Crew is a great brew-club, and they have many brewers that can help with problems. I know you have met them... I also hear that the brewer at the local brew-pub is doing wonders despite what I had heard was an un-appreciated lot in life...what with owners/managers/chefs that felt, "It's a recipe...give it to me, and I can make beer!" So, obviously the person to ask is the manager of the brew-pub! ;-) Seriously, you seem to be doing fine in regard to your fermentation...and yes, the yeast is happy at those temps......Foaming of the yeast is more a function of air contained during drying than any measure of viability...rehydration, with no sugars present allows no measure of ferment... Many variables can cause the lag you worry about, but http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalvin/beerfaq.html#rehydrate might seem to address your concerns. And be sure to get down to LABCO...I hear they have some fine specialties coming through the pipes! >From: "cwaters" <cwaters at cox.net> >Subject: Servomyces > >Someone posted a while ago about difficulty diluting Servomyces for >home-brewery use. The 10 gr. pack is for "10 US Barrels" batches. It's a >fine powder and about the grain size of 'Malto Dextrine', which I had lying >around from trying to improve an all-extract batch 10+ years ago. 10 US >Bl.'s = 320 gallons = 32 - ten gallon batches, so I diluted it with 32 - >'quarter teaspoons' of the 'Malto Dextrine (2 TBS, + 2 TSP), the smallest >dry VOLUME I can conveniently measure, and put it in a couple of White Labs >yeast tubes I had available. The two powers seem to easily blend evenly, the >quarter teaspoon measuring spoon fits into the White Labs tube, and the >tubes should keep the slightly hygroscopic 'Malto Dextrine from absorbing >moisture. I haven't used the Servomyces yet. I'll comment later. Hope this >helps someone. > Chet Waters - Omaha, Ne. If you are fortunate enough to get some Servo, just take a 'smidgen', (a scientific term for a speck") and add it to your boiling wort. (There have been studies done that state 'no upward limit' on zinc.....) And I have had good reports on Servo usage by homebrewers. in 5 gallon batches. Personally, I use it full strength for 7-14 BBL batches, and find it cuts 20-25 % off my ferment times. Re-pitches using yeast propped with Servo rock. Siebel OnLine Participation I am pleased to announce that Siebel has granted a request to answer questions on-line from the HBD, officially commencing on May 13, and running through the 17th of May. In an effort to strengthen the bonds between the amateur and professional brewing communities, this event will be also promoted within the AHA and IBS. In an effort to absolutely pack these Fora with questions and response worthy of the one week available within Siebel's workload, questions shall be accepted for response effective May 10, 2002, and shall be rejected after midnight CST, May 17, 2002. Siebel has graciously allowed that follow-up may be required post the cut-off point, and they will deal with that on an as needed basis. Further details to follow, but we need to thank Dr. Lyn Kruger for her gracious undertaking of this aid to the brewing community. So, start thinking..! Get your toughest subjects out there! Cheers! Jethro Gump Rob Moline Court Avenue Brewing Company Lallemand AHA Board of Advisors 515-450-0243 cell 515-282-2739 CABCO "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" New Address- jethrogump at mchsi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 12:17:35 +0100 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: saflager yeast differences Paul Kensler asks: > What's the consensus on S23 vs. S189 with regards to > flavor and performance? Is S23 truly fruity? > I have only a single experience with S23. As I reported earlier upon the "trans equatorial Yates/Pivo Pilsner" Mr. Wes Smith was kind enough to bring us a cultured sample of that strain when we fermented the wort with two different lager yeasts. As I mentioned then, I noticed a ditinct banana ester smell in the culture bottle, but thought it could be attributed to the grueling Aussie summer heat and perhaps being allowed to ferment in a garage....... ( A tiny tip in "brewer's courtesy"..... Now this one's absolutely for free! --- When someone gives you an absolutely free sample of yeast, out of the pure goodness of their hearts, and has even taken the trouble to hydrate and feed it for you..... well ,then, I usually don't ask. "Hey mate! Where'd you culture up this bloody mess? Up yer mother's arse?" It turns out that while running a primary at 10C, this odour of banana was still perceptable in the final beer, so seems to be part of the nature of the beast, and Wes was relieved of any yeast abuse suspicions. This turns out to be a good thing, as we are presently trying to bring about more distinct legislation with regard to the prosecution of "yeast abusers". One of our greatest concerns is the blossoming "yeast porno" industry on the internet. We have siezed quite a number of computers, and you would not believe the absolutely disgusting graphic representation of yeast abuse we have uncovered. The most degrading scenes. Total lack of respect for yeast integrity. Sadism in itself is a sickly, sickening, and threatening feature, but we were even more shocked to see mpeg films of "yeast snuff", circulating on the web. What kind of sick individual likes seeing their entire screen splattered in methylene blue? But, I digress. In short, all charges against Wes have been dropped. One should remember that this is my SINGLE experience with S23, so I wouldn't draw too much change out of that currency. If this is the case, it may be an alternative for Weiss beir brewers. Don't know much about that, since I am a real fan of malt flavours, and the local beer would have to be pretty terrible before I'd prefer a good weiss (Some areas of Greece come to mind, where "Paulaner" is available on tap, and the local malt stuff can be pretty dull). In contrast to that, I have a few years and many thousands of litres of experience with S189, and it is by no means estery. It is in fact by no means "anything" except "clean" in flavour.... under a wide range of conditions. I would go as far as to say it is a bit "boring", in that you get no bizarre flavours (which can sometimes be quite interesting), and as such doesn't prod one to greater 'spurmentin'. In our next fiscal quarter, our task force will be investigating "yeast terrorism". Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 08:32:00 -0500 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Re: drilling the Sankorny Mark says: ".....And yes, I also bought a pressure gauge from William's Brewing (NAYYY) so I can sterilize through steam pressure. I know some have cautioned against this use, but since I plan to use it as a serving tank on occasion it needs to be able to handle AT LEAST 20psi. If it can't then I've just created a very big, very expensive fermenter." Mark, material properties can change a lot with temperature. 20 PSI at 40 F for a serving keg is very different than 20 PSI for a steam pressure vessel. 20 PSI saturated steam is about 260 F. 304 SS will lose about 20% of its strength at this temperature, and that is only for the material itself. Weld quality and geometry on the keg can make a big impact as well. I would proceed with caution (basically, follow your own advice). Dennis Collins Knoxville, TN http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 08:50:32 -0500 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: Mash Panic Dave Larsen wrote: "My wife yells out from the other room, "WHAT IS GOING ON?! You keep swearing like a truck driver." That was a funny story. Dave, I can see you already have one of the most important qualities of a good brewer, a well-developed vocabulary. It is my experience that a well-timed round of vituperation will not only help to keep the brewing gremlins from screwing with you in the future, but will also aid in lowering your blood pressure. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 08:52:16 -0500 From: "Rogers, Mike" <mike.rogers at eds.com> Subject: Bazooka Screen Usage I brewed a 10.5 gal batch based upon the North American Alaskan Amber clone book recipe last Saturday. I have to tell you that the Bazooka Screen plugged to the point of restricting the valve flow to about 10% of capacity (unacceptable). I used 2 oz of Mt Hood and 2 oz of Spalt pellets. This is the 3rd time I've used the Bazooka with all pellets and every time is plugs. I have used it very successfully with all of my leaf hop brews thus far... The Bazooka works great with leaf hops, regardless of amount, however, it can't handle 4 oz of pellets in a 10.5 gal batch. On a second note, I was told that Mt Hood and Spalt hops are not available in leaf form by LD Carlson or the other vendor that our local supply store carries... Is this true? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 08:54:11 -0500 From: "Ron L" <j4ckstr4w at hotmail.com> Subject: mini keg advice Does anyone use a mini-keg system? I have seen a bunch of different types out there. Is there one that is better than the rest? Any help would be great. Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 08:49:49 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Arrested Fermentation for NA "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> wrote of his low alcohol beer (~2%) >called SNAL. Saturday Night Almost Live? Jeff - -- ***Please note my new address*** Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 09:05:23 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: drilling the Sankorny Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> wrote: >Lastly, if the entire keg CAN be pressurized but there's the >occasional nook or cranny in the weld, will the pressure be >able to kill all the buggers? I can't believe I just asked >that, but it's been a while since I used the autoclave--I >seem to recall all surfaces had to be smooth and clean to be >effectively sterilized. No worry - it will be sterile. It isn't the pressure that's killing things, it's the heat. I can't remember the boiling point of water at 20 psi, but it's probably around 280F. That will certainly heat up all the metal, even in nooks and crannies. You mentioned that you have a pressure gauge so you can raise the pressure to 20 psi. How do you intend to vent it once it gets at or above that temperature? By hand with the release vent? Be very, very careful of scalding live steam. It still makes me nervous without an automatic release valve. I'm sure you can get these. Cornie lids reputedly have these in the release vent, but I'd hate to trust it, and I think it's at a pretty high pressure. You'll be producing large volumes of steam, and a small vent may not be able to handle the volume fast enough. Pressure may rise to dangerous levels. I hate to think what an exploding keg would be like. Exploding steam engine boilers are legendary for the physical and human damage they do. Probably wouldn't hurt to have a garden hose handy so you could spray the keg in an emergency to quickly reduce the pressure. Of course, you might then collapse the keg! Jeff - -- ***Please note my new address*** Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 08:34:48 -0600 From: The Freemans <potsus at Bellsouth.net> Subject: carb cap leaks Take a good look at the little rubber "O" ring on the carbonater cap. These "O" rings seem to be prone to drying out and cracking. If it leaks when you turn it upside down to add CO2, then the ring probably needs replacing. Replacements can be found in the faucet section of the plumbing department in most home supply stores. Replacing the "O" rings cured the leak problem for me. Bill Freeman aka ER Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:47:39 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Re: spigots The spigots I use are the replacement spigots for hot water heaters. They can be completely disassembled and inspected. The valve stem is held in by a nut that I only hand tighten. Every time I rinse the bucket, I unscrew the nut and the entire assembly comes out for easy cleaning and inspection. With the valve stem assembly removed, I can inspect the entire liquid path also. Takes just a few seconds to unscrew, clean and inspect, and retighten. I started using this type because I boil in plastic buckets and I just didn't trust the typical spigot to hold up against boiling wort. Since these are for hot water heaters, they can take the heat. They also cost less than $3.00. They don't come with a nut for the inside but you can use a pvc pipe thread-to-pvc adapter. If anyone is interested in how I do this, email me. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:55:00 -0500 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Specific Heat of Mlat "the Ludwigs" <mwludwig at tqci.net> IIRC the specific heat of barley, and also of extract for that matter, is 0.4 with water being 1.0 of course. Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at http://www.listermann.com Take a look at the anti-telemarketer forum. It is my new hobby! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 07:14:59 -0800 (PST) From: John Scime <jascime at yahoo.com> Subject: Guinness and Vancouver Hello list: This is my first post - couldn't resist the Guinness disuccsion, since Paul Morstad made some interesting points in his post yesterday about the differences between bottled, draght and widget Guinness. I've had the good fortune to be able to conduct extensive research (:>)on Guinness, both here in Canada and in Ireland. While travelling in Ireland with friends during the early nineties we stayed with a Brian's family - and they ran a small pub adjacent to their house!! "Uncle Kieran" the publican was only too happy to explain to us uneducated Canadians that "You have to treat your Guinness right" by cleaning the draught lines and taps regularly and by refridgerating the cask at the proper temperature (about 58 F). As our "research" continued over the course of the 6 weeks we were in Ireland my friends and I became quite the conniseurs of Guinness - it is a fact that you can go into two different pubs on the same street and have two completely different pints of Guinness. I assure you we went into enough pubs to test the reliability of this theory! Based on what Brian's uncle had taught us at Guinness school (:>) we considered the sub-standard taste - and especially the over-emphasized sweet "tang" - a result of the Guinness not being treated "right". Dirty lines impart an undesirable acrid flavour that, in my experience, was not present in pubs where the product was processed properly. Certainly, the pints served at "Uncle" Kieran MacDermott's pub in Ballylanders had none of this off-taste - they were smooth and silky, crisper (more tangy?) and less sweet than Beamish or Murphy's. As for the bottled variety, we sampled some of that too, and it was sweeter than the draught Guinness with a much different head due to the lack of NO2. I preffered the pub draught. Last comment: the Guinness served in Ireland is not the same as that served here. In Ireland, it is brewed to 3.8% abv, in Canada, I believe the imported widget cans are 4.8%. Also, a pint of Guinness poured by pulling on the tap in Ireland takes about 5 minutes to 'settle' before it is 'topped-up' by pushing the tap, thereby creating the desired 5/8 collar of luxureous foam. In Canada, the Guinness is poured in one pull, and settles out very quickly. Can't explain why. So, I guess the point of my post is to suggest that those posting on the Guiness experience may have been tasting different products, or the same product having been mistreated, and this may be the reason for the different views and memories. I'm not saying that the pints we considered "not up to snuff" in Ireland weren't enjoyable - they certainly were, but some were better than others. The stuff we get here isn't as good either (My wife and I confirmed this on our honeymoon to Ireland in 1997), but it is still worth drinking. John Scime (With all this talk of delicious beer, how am I going to get through the rest of the work day??) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 11:29:22 -0500 From: "Neil Kushnir" <neilk27 at hotmail.com> Subject: Where to get 10 gallon Rubbermaid/Gott coolers? Hi everybody... With all the recent talk about Rubbermaid/Gott coolers I have decided to go with a 10 gallon mash tun instead of my previously-planned 5 gallon tun. The problem is, I live in Montreal where they are almost impossible to find. Can anyone in the upstate New York/Vermont/New Hampshire area recommend a chain store (a la Walmart, Costco, etc.) within driving distance of here where they know they stock the 10 gallon coolers? Plattsburg, Burlington, Lakes region of New Hampshire, wherever...) Mail order is not an issue--with the exchange rate, shipping, duties and taxes into Canada the price would triple. I don't mind going to get it, but I don't want to wander blindly from mall to mall looking. Thanks, Neil Kushnir Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 08:53:10 -0800 (PST) From: Rama Roberts <rama at eng.sun.com> Subject: mead pH There was a discussion about how much acid to add to meads a couple of days ago. I suggested it wasn't necessary to add acid, but after reading the BYO article on meads this month: http://www.byo.com/feature/875.html it seems the amount of acid you use (if at all) depends on the style of mead you're making. Sweet meads may need acid to balance out the sweetness, dry meads may not need any additional acid. - --Rama Roberts Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 09:21:25 -0800 From: "Michael O'Donnell" <mooseo at stanford.edu> Subject: re: Filtering beer I have just ordered a 1 micron filter system that goes between two cornys... the price for a sterile filter is $3.50 and the housing with couplers is $40. I haven't tried it yet (batch should be ready in about a week), but I am hopeful that it can reduce the mess left by pellet hops and a loosely tied mesh bag. Bought it from www.morebeer.com (no affiliation, but I have always been happy with them -- and their free shipping -- since I don't have a brewstore within an hour's drive) Search on beer filter, I think. They have the filter elements in several degrees of fineness. mike Monterey, CA >Absolutely. Many commercial breweries (and vineyards) >use fine filters (0.45 - 10 micron) to remove yeast >and other non-desireables prior to bottling. These >filters vary from cellulose pads or polypropylene >wraps (depth filters) to pleated polymer membranes >(surface filters). The only drawback for the >homebrewer is that these filters tend to be expensive. >For an overview of the commercial filtration process, >check out this website: Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 09:35:59 -0900 From: Clifton Moore <cmoore at gi.alaska.edu> Subject: Marcato Marga Mulino Roller Grain Flaking Mill Is this thing any good? At $55 it looks like it could be just the thing for many of us. Marcato Marga Mulino 171-282 Roller Grain Flaking Mill http://www.appliances.com/agr64171282.html Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 14:13:58 -0500 From: Eric Miller <ac051 at osfn.org> Subject: re: Mash Panic Dave Larsen writes: > I pulled the thermometer out and plunged it into some > boiling water. It read 236F degrees. The culprit was > unveiled. Bad thermometer. Bad! Hold on there, Dave! You didn't mention where you're writing from. So, for example, if you live near Lake Titicaca in the Andes, your thermometer might just be correct! :-) Note that even with a correctly functioning thermometer and ample mash stirring, I've seen variations in temperature of 5 or 6 degF throughout the mash tun. I've given up on expecting to get even temperatures throughout the mash tun. I have a spreadsheet that I use to calculate mash temperature from strike water temperature, water volume, and grain weight, with a small fudge factor for my mash tun's specific heat. It's a better predictor of the temperature at which the mash will stabilize than any direct measurement of the mash temperature right after adding strike water. I've been thinking about RIMS for a long time now; even temperature distribution during mash circulation is one of the benefits I would expect to see in a RIMS system. Right now I'm one of many standing in the big virtual line outside the Moving Brews online door. - -- Eric Miller Holliston, MA Down a bit and off to the right of Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 19:16:04 -0500 From: Don Price <dprice1 at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Re: Mash Panic By now Mr. Larsen may have figured out that the Pyrex cooking thermometer is not "bad" as long as long as it stays dry. It is the jerk that left this minor detail off of the package that was "bad". Bad! Of course I assume this is the one one with the braided metal wire like mine. Solution: Dry out thermometer wire in oven (200F overnight works fine). Cover wire to keep it dry. I used plastic tubing and silicone sealant. Others have used shrink wrap tubing. Keep a second thermometer in mash for the ocasional reality check. Don Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 19:39:44 -0500 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: Oxyclean Incident and Warning Mike Brennan asked: >which got a lot off. But there is still some residuals that are proving >difficult to reach. I need to make sure its all out before I use the carboy >again. I am afraid to put any other chemicals in to loosen it as I don't >want to risk an adverse reaction. Any ideas? 6 gallons of very hot water? Oxyclean should eventually dissolve. I think your original problem was that the solution was too concentrated. - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 20:16:51 -0600 From: "Carrol McCracken - Mediacom" <carrolmccracken at mchsi.com> Subject: Carbonator Cap Problem Nils A. Hedglin mentions having problems with a Carbonator cap spraying. I have had problems with mine too, and have been wondering if I need to change the gaskets already, or if there is a problem with it. I don't imagine you can repair the poppet valve. I have had mine for probably a couple years, but haven't used it over six times. Has anyone else had trouble with theirs or can anyone suggest solutions? Carrol McCracken Return to table of contents
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