HOMEBREW Digest #3894 Wed 20 March 2002

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  Iodophore Stain Removal (Al Klein)
  Secondary fermentation inactivity (Al Klein)
  Dark Bitter Malts (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
  Montreal Homebrewers Club (John Misrahi)
  Re: Conical 10 Gallon was Re:10 gallon cornies (Bill Wible)
  10 gallon cornie conversion to a conical fermenter (Gene Collins)
  pacific northwest brewpubs ("Matt vonBuchler")
  re: oxidized wort ("Steve Alexander")
  Where is PBS? (Randy Barnes)
  re: Moving Brews news (Paul Kensler)
  Klein again ("James Sploonta")
  Dry Hop Utilization (Jeff Hertz)
  False bottom height (John Schnupp)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 00:46:21 -0500 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: Iodophore Stain Removal On Mon, 18 Mar 2002 00:10:07 -0500, in rec.crafts.brewing you wrote: Fred L. Johnson asks: >If I don't get help soon, my wife may kill me. If I have to get new >flooring (and we needed it anyway), does anyone have recommendations of a >resistant material? Polyurethane finished hardwood? Would work, but it would need refinishing regularly. Polyurethane isn't the bast finish to walk on. Bowling Alley Finish (it's a brand name) is tougher. > Tile? Stone would be best but tile would work - as long as it was non-porous or you kept it finished (there's finish for tile) - or both. But glazed tile is very slippery when wet, so it's not such a good idea for a kitchen. > Perhaps just something darker than white would be helpful. It would hide the stains. It's like making a 1.11 beer to hide errors. Any chance of moving the brewing operation to the garage, THEN getting your wife a new kitchen floor? - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 00:46:20 -0500 From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net> Subject: Secondary fermentation inactivity Micah Anderson asked: >We moved everything into the >secondaries and the lager took off bubbling the airlock, the nut brown and >porter were silent. Almost a week later, the nut brown and the porter still >haven't bubbled the airlock. Did we loose our yeast somehow? We pretty much >did everything the same, sanititzed everything... should we just be patient? If the beer finished fermenting in primary you won't get any airlock activity in secondary. Take a SG reading - that'll tell you whether it's finished, stuck or what. - --- [Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] Al - rukbat at optonline dot net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:51:29 +1100 (EST) From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at Sun.COM> Subject: Dark Bitter Malts Hi Guys, Just a quick note on the Dark malt thread. Wyeremann Carafa Spec III is just about the best dark malt I have ever used. It is dehusked and gives a deep dark profile with no hint of bitterness. As a test chew on a few grains of the malt and do the same for roast barley or Patent malt. The quality of the malt is without peer. I am sure that St Pats or Northern brewer can supply in the USA or myself in Oz. rgds, Scotty Ocean Brewing Co. sales at onlinebrewing.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 08:36:02 -0800 From: John Misrahi <Lmoukhin at sprint.ca> Subject: Montreal Homebrewers Club Hello All. Some fellow brewers and I are trying to form a homebrewers club here in Montreal, QC , Canada. We were surprised to learn that while there was one some years back, there no longer is. We want to be fairly informal with regular (monthly?) meetings for the sharing of ideas and tastings etc.. but no dues, minutes etc.. We would have our first few meetings at a local brewpub (Brutopia or maybe Cheval Blanc etc..) and then at the home of one of the members. So if you are interested, please email me and I will add you to our mailing list if you wish thank you John Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:17:09 -0500 From: Bill Wible <bill at brewbyyou.net> Subject: Re: Conical 10 Gallon was Re:10 gallon cornies >Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:07:04 -0800 >From: "badger" <badger at badger.cx> >Subject: Conical 10 Gallon was Re:10 gallon cornies >I hadn't considered this kind of mod to them, and I am curious as to what >the cost of getting this modification done might range? I couldn't tell you. People either have it done by a service, or they know a welder who does it. Maybe check with SABCO, or one of the companies that specialize in that. I wouldn't imagine it's cheap, maybe a couple hundred dollars. But it would have to be cheaper that buying a new conical. >And to open a potential kettle of fish.. What benefits do you get from a >conical fermentor anyway? is it just the ability to drop the yeast/gunk out >the bottom, and keep fermenting (ie: secondary) in the same container? Yeah, this probably will open a can of worms. There are advantages and disadvantages to using conicals. The big advantage is the ability to remove the yeast from the beer, not the other way around, so there's no racking, and along with that, less chance of aeration or oxidation. It's also more convenient to do everything in one container. There are also quite a few disadvantages. One is that due to the high cost of a conical, most people who have them only have one. If it's tied up for 3 weeks at a time (for ale) and you only have one, you can't brew another batch. If you're going to tie it up with a lager, that might take 8 - 10 weeks. Same problem the big boys have - planning and allocating tank space. Another problem is controlling the fermentation temperature. Glycol units can be purchased or added on, but they're not cheap. And a 10 gallon conical likely won't fit in any fridge that one of us has. They're also difficult to clean. I've seen this plastic conical called the V vessel. It's a plastic 5 or 6 gallon conical vessel, and it comes with brackets to hang it on your wall. It retails for just under $200, which seems expensive for a plastic container. You ferment in it, and do everything in one container without racking. Anybody using one of these? I undertand you can't bottle out of it, so you still have to do at least one transfer. Personally, I think the disadvantages of conical fermenters outweigh the advantages, but a conical fermenter is just a really cool toy, and almost every brewer I know wants one, or thinks they do. It's the way the big boys do it, and it's something most of us think we'd like to have. It's the same way the wine makers all think they want oak barrels, without realizing there is a ton of maintenance to owning and using a barrel, and it doesn't necessarily mean you'll get better wine. These guys all get great wine the first year, then can't understand why it turns to vinegar the second year on - after they haven't cleaned or sanitized it once. Just my 2 cents. Bill - -------------------------- Brew By You 3504 Cottman Ave. Philadelphia, PA 19149 215-335-BREW (PA) 215-335-0712 (Fax) www.brewbyyou.net - --------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 11:54:10 -0600 From: Gene Collins <GCollins at cranecarrier.com> Subject: 10 gallon cornie conversion to a conical fermenter What an idea...using a 10 gal. cornie for a conical fermenter! What luck! I happened to acquire one for FREE! This size would even fit in my refrigerator for temperature control. Does anyone have any drawings for making the cone section and is 45 degrees still the accepted "perfect angle"? Gene Collins Broken Arrow, OK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:23:13 +0500 From: "Matt vonBuchler" <trichrome79 at hotmail.com> Subject: pacific northwest brewpubs hi. i'm new to the list so forgive me if this has already been asked 100's of times ;) i'm going to be traveling the west coast and i wanted some recommendations for quality brewpubs in portland, seattle, and vancouver,BC.... thanks! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:48:30 -0500 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: oxidized wort Phil writes ... >Also >interestingly, Jeff Irvine claimed when he was out here that if someone else >would go to the bother of producing the wort, he would be quite happy to >spend his days simply experimenting with the ferment. One of the nice, no ... great things about brewing is that it's as simple as pie - but the inherent depth and complexity of the process is stunning. You could spend years playing with just one aspect of the ferment, or hopping or malting or mash schedule ...and have a beer or two while doing so. >In one beer produced from a wort kit I detected >some slight oxidization flavours. Not surprising - there is a note in one of the books about a British malting company shipping liquid malt extract to the Caribbean for locally made beers. The temperature plays havoc with the concentrated LME and it "browns" readily. How much of that is oxidation vs caramelization vs Maillard reactions is unclear but there is apparent flavor damage. It's probably fine when fresh - but time and temps are enemies of the liquid stuff. The dry extract is usually a little darker to begin with but I *suspect* suffers less damage in it's dry state. You Ozzies and your 100F January temps .... what were you thinking about ... Novemberbock or Aprilfest was it ? All screwed up you know. -Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:13:40 -0800 From: Randy Barnes <rbarnes at sdccd.cc.ca.us> Subject: Where is PBS? Fellow Brewers, I'm having trouble contacting Precision Brewing Systems on their web page (www.pbsbeer.com). Does anyone know the status of the company, a phone number, or another source for a MaxiChiller? Thanks, Randy Barnes San Diego, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:24:05 -0800 (PST) From: Paul Kensler <paul_kensler at yahoo.com> Subject: re: Moving Brews news Neil, I hope I'm not speaking out of turn, and I certainly don't speak for or represent Moving Brews... but I do belong to the same homebrew club as the owner, Bill. I saw him last weekend and asked him about his business plans, and he said that his day job is really hectic right now (thus the "winter break") and any changes in Moving Brews status would happen after April. I know this doesn't help much... Take care, Paul Kensler Gaithersburg, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:53:55 -0500 From: "James Sploonta" <biere_god at hotmail.com> Subject: Klein again 3/18/02: Brick Red Cap Ale. "This may seem like an understated ale, so pay attention to it- its sincere demeanor will make you content and happy." Um, Steve? Whimsical descriptive language, or rubbish? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:13:09 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Hertz <duckinchicago at yahoo.com> Subject: Dry Hop Utilization I just had a quick question for the collective. I know that as far as boiling hops, utilization decreases as OG (or SG)increases, but is this true as far as dry hops go as well? In other words, do I need to use more dry hops to get a good aroma in a high gravity beer than I would need in a lower one? This assumes that you are adding the hops to an already attenuated beer in the secondary, so really the final gravity shouldn't be drastically different from what a "normal" gravity beer would be. Reason being, I made a rather strong IPA (1.079-I know this is pretty much Barleywine strength) and want to dry hop it to get a nice Cascade aroma, but I'm not sure if I need to use a lot more hops. Any opinions on this?? Jeff Hertz Glen Ellyn, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 19:44:23 -0800 (PST) From: John Schnupp <johnschnupp at yahoo.com> Subject: False bottom height I've been playing around with some modifications to my mash tun. I use a 10 gallon Gott. I also use the "stock" hole and grommet for my outlet. My current false bottom is on legs that keeps it above the outlet. The problem with this is that there is about 1 gallon of underlet water needed. I would like to reduce the distance from the bottom of the tun to the false bottom. My question, is there a minimum? If I used 3/8" this would put the false bottom just below the outlet hole. The cooler is about 12.5" in diameter, this converts to about .2 gallon. I'm concerned that this volume might be a little too small. The second project I'm working on is a manifold. Actually I started the manifold first but is will be a whole lot easier to just drop the false bottom. If I complete the false bottom I will use it with my RIMS (when I get that complete). When calculating "open" area, is it a simple ratio of area of tun/area of holes? I want to make sure I can get a sufficient flow rate. ===== John Schnupp, N3CNL ??? Hombrewery [560.2, 68.6] Rennerian Georgia, VT 95 XLH 1200, Bumblebee Return to table of contents
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